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FAQs on Betta Foods, Feeding, Nutrition

Pic of Add's Bettas, a breeder in Thailand: plathai@hotmail.com

Question About Fighting Fish – 07/21/08
I've had a Siamese fighting fish for almost a year, his name is Silvermoon. He's been a very pleasant, surprisingly peaceful and an amusing fish thus far, however in the past few days I've noticed he's become less interested in his food.
<Check temperature, water quality.>
The last two days, I fed him but he didn't eat it for a long time, I walked away and by the time I returned the food was gone. Today, however he just doesn't seem to want to eat and I am concerned. The temperature is 24 degrees (Celsius) and the water was recently cleaned, I put a little bit of the old water as per usual although not as much as before as it was getting dirty frequently, and I put the proper medications in the tap water.
<What filter are you using? Bettas do not do well in unfiltered tanks (unless you are changing 50-90% daily). Regardless of their size and activity level, like all fish they need zero ammonia in the water. Using your ammonia test kit and check the water. If you have anything other than zero ammonia, that's your problem. Review filtration and how you are maintaining the filter in terms of cleaning the media.>
I don't understand why he isn't eating, even when he swims to the top sometimes he doesn't even try and eat it. I feed him bloodworms mostly, and the occasional pellet, usually he eats them quickly. I feed him twice a day, one in the morning and one at night everyday. What am I doing wrong? What should I do?
Regards,
Stefan
<Most folks "fail" with Bettas because they keep them in too-small, unfiltered aquaria. Poor water will kill Bettas just as fast as anything else. So invariably that's the thing I'd recommend you check first. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Question About Fighting Fish
The water is pretty clean, I just cleaned it today and cleaned it a few days ago as well.
<If the tank in not filtered, you need to be changing some (50%) of the water daily.>
I check the ph level and it is normal according to chart I was provided in the fish store.
<Ok.>
The tank I have is probably too small, and I do not use a filter. I used to, but with my old fighting fish it tended to suck him in because of the tank size.
<Obviously the wrong sort of filter. An air-powered sponge filter works just dandy with Bettas, providing both gentle current (which they like) and good water quality (which they need). Here in the UK, a basic sponge filter plus a small air pump would cost well under £20. Given the cost of the ceramic castle and the bright purple gravel, I'm guessing you're not averse to spending money on your pets, which is good!>
I assume that means I need a much bigger tank yes? I'm going to sort that out as soon as possible and put him in my bigger tank with a filter and heater, it will take me a few days however to complete the tank.
<Bettas simply do better in at least reasonably big tanks; something 8-10 gallons would be ample. A small heater and air powered sponge filter would complete the set-up nicely. No need to buy a ready-made kit; buying the "parts" individually can work out less expensive.>
If I do it by the weekend, do you think Silvermoon will be okay until then?
<Yep, if you lay off the food and keep the water clean.>
Is there anything I can do in the meantime to make sure he doesn't expire, like frequent water changes?
<Hole in one! I can see we understand each other...>
He was swimming a lot when I cleaned his tank, but now he's hiding in the castle...there is a castle inside the tank that has 2 holes in it to swim in and out of, he tends to go in the very bottom hole and hide in there more than usual.
<Wouldn't read TOO much into this, though when fish are stressed they do tend to find the safest place and lurk there.>
I have attached some photographs to help provide better insight. 1 and 3 are of Silvermoon and his appearance, 2 is of the whole tank to give you an idea of the size and the castle and stuff and 4 is of the temperature.
<Looks a nice little set-up, though I'd suggest not using purple gravel next time -- fish feel more comfy, and show better colours, when the substrate is dark. Black is great, plain gravel just as good. As for ornaments, they couldn't care less, and castles are just fine!>
I hope this helps save Silvermoon,
SG
<Every confidence in your understanding of the situation, and what you need to do to help. Good luck, Neale.>

Picky eater, Betta 2/13/08
Hi All,
<Elizabeth>
Thank you for helping me out so many times. Hopefully I'll get this new puzzle solved with your help.
<Good>
Pixie lives in a perfectly heated, filtered 6 gallon tank that she shares with her plecostomus
<Will need more room...>
and snails. Regular cleanings and filter changes keep this tank very healthy. No decorations that a Betta can get stuck in, only living plants. When we got her, her tail fin and most of her body was translucent and you could see the green pea inside her as she digested it. Now, at 2 months in her own tank, her tail fin has filled in with color (red) and her body is no longer see through. She is a gorgeous little lady with a pinkish body and bright red fins.
<Nice>
Pixie, our female Betta is one picky eater. I started her off on mini Betta bites and she was fine with them until I fed her a dried bloodworm. Now she snubs the pellets. I thought I could outwit this youngster by getting Betta flake and "mix" it in with her worms but alas, no! She picked through and ate the worms, leaving the flake. I give her a bit of parboiled pea every other day (too often?).
<Not if it's eaten>
I get the pea out of it's shell and cut it into 8th's. She eats about 3/4 of a half a pea right now.
<This is a bunch>
My question is, how much worm should I be giving her?
<One piece or so...>
Will her lifespan be significantly decreased on this bloodworm and pea only diet?
<No, not really>
There were no instructions on the worm tube. Is she missing nutrients by not liking pellets? What about shrimp? How much shrimp to feed?
<Depends on the type of shrimp... the pellets of some makers (Hikari, Spectrum...) are nutritionally complete... and the mix you propose may be missing some essential nutrients... but as with humans, their companion animals... how much does this contribute to lessened vitality, longevity?>
Thank you for your thoughts on this,
Elizabeth
PS - I did scan your website for answers as to the how much of bloodworm to feed but did not see any answers, but was firmly convinced that Bettas are indeed picky eaters if you feed them worms!
<Ah yes, this is so. Cheers, Bob Fenner, who would not be overly concerned here>

Help with my Betta 1/14/08
Dear Crew,
I have a Betta for a about 3 months in an established tank of 6 months old.
Water Parameters
Ammonia 0
Nitrites 0
Nitrates 15 Ppm
Water Temp - 78F
<All seems fine. How big is the tank? What sort of filtration? Any other fishes in the tank?>
From last 2 days he would want to eat his pellets but he would spit them out immediately. I was thinking its some kind of a parasite/bacterial infection. Checked his body for any visible signs like any spots or extra body growth. He seems to be fine.
<Hmm... do try another type of food. Feeding any fish a single sort of food all the time isn't a good idea. Live foods are usually the best things to please a jaded palate. Try live Daphnia or mosquito larvae -- these are adored by most Bettas! If you can't get those, frozen (not freeze-dried) bloodworms worm well.>
I am thinking of treating him with some medications but I am totally lost as he hasn't exhibited any known illness.
<Don't treat a fish until you know the disease. Randomly using medications is dangerous.>
I also did a 30% water change and added some aquarium salt but nothing had seemed to improved.
<How much water to you change per week? In a very small aquarium (less than 40 l/10 gal) a 50% water change per week is essential. There's no need to use salt in a freshwater tank; Bettas do not come from brackish water. Instead, concentrate on water quality and water chemistry. You say nothing about hardness or pH. Big, regular water changes ameliorate the natural acidification of aquaria over time.>
Pls advise, how do I save my little one.
Best Regards,
Vamsi
<Hope this helps, Neale.>

Overfed Betta? 1/5/08
Hello, I need some help regarding my Betta. During the holidays I gave my Betta a week feeder since I wasn't going to be in town. I made the mistake of using a generic feeder for all types of fish because the pet store was all out of the little Betta feeders I usually get. After being away for the week I came back to find my Betta's belly very large and it seems that one side is fatter than the other. I stopped feeding him for four days and the belly still hasn't gone down. I also did a 50% water change and gave him part of a pea for the past two days. Could he still just be suffering from overfeeding or have I done permanent damage to him?
Thanks,
Lisa
<Does indeed sound like he enjoyed the Christmas feast a little too heartily. Stop feeding and see what happens over the next few days. If by the end of a week he isn't back to his normal slender self, get back in touch and we'll discuss options. Fish can go many days without food, even weeks, so it's almost always better to skip feeding during vacations rather than relying on machines or neighbours to feed them in your absence. Fish aren't like cats or dogs, which need regular, daily meals; Goldfish here in England will spend the 3-4 months of winter without food and it actually does them good! Cheers, Neale.>

Betta Vitamins? 8/6/07
Hi WWM,
<Hi Jean>
Just wanted to know if there is any vitamins I can put into my Betta's water to build up his strength after being very sick? I tried giving him pellets with vitamins in it, but he keeps on spitting them out.
<As you've seen, Bettas can be very picky as to what they do and do not eat. My suggestion is in addition to keeping the water very clean (this will help re-build his immune system), try feeding him a variety of meaty foods, such as mysis shrimp and bloodworms. Hikari makes a frozen variety that have vitamins included. Also, there are products such as http://www.boydenterprisesonline.com/pages/3/index.htm specifically designed to be added directly to the tank's water, or used when thawing frozen food.
Do be sure to keep your Betta's environmental conditions pristine - he's likely weakened from his illness, and this will greatly help!>
Thanks for your help again - Jean
<Best of luck to you and your Betta,
Jorie>

Overfed Beta 8/1/07
I love my beta fish (Mr. Fishy)
<Mmm, if you did wouldn't you know the correct spelling? Betta>
and have always taken really good care of him, (or so I thought before reading the FAQ on your site) he is about 2 years old, and was in really good health until last night.
Mr. Fishy resides in a 2.5 mini bow aquarium, created by Tetra. It sits on my bathroom counter (most counter space in there) I have this aquarium background on his tank so that he can't see the mirror behind him.
<Ah, good>
As far as Mr. Fishy is concerned, he's swimming in underwater Greece.
He has a filter hanging on the side of his tank, I'm concerned that the current it generates is too strong, but can't turn it to a lower setting than its on. I just replaced the decoration in his aquarium with a smaller set of Greek ruins, because he's grown so much that the other set wasn't leaving him with much swimming space. I leave his light on at night so it heats his aquarium up and I turn it off in the morning when I feed him. He has no tank heater, because the tank is too small,
<Mmm, look for the company name "Hydor" on the Net... and get a heater>
I was wondering if you could recommend a better set up for Mr. Fishy. His tank doesn't get very dirty, I switch the filter out whenever it needs changing, and replace a some of his water when needed, but is there anything else I can do? What should I do?
<Read: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above>
Also, Mr. Fishy is sick :( He was swimming around very energetically, and happily just two days ago, and Brandon and I were thrilled to find that every time we walk into the bathroom, Mr. Fishy surfaces and waits for food, in our excitement that Mr. Fishy was actually aware of our existence (he's pretty unconcerned about us, he's never so much as swam my way before) we would drop a pellet of food in his tank every time he swam towards us. He was eating the food, and seemed fine, but last night I noticed his belly is bulging. I've been dreaming Mr. Fishy was going to die for a few nights (I lost a hamster, and a cat recently, and become much more attached to my fish in the last month due to their loss, I'm scared he's next because he's all I have now) and now I'm afraid I've killed him. His tummy is bulging, and I just know I overfed him, what can I do? Is he going to die? Please help me
<Mmm, do cut back on the food/feeding... just a few pellets per day... Read where you were referred to... get the heater, perhaps a small bit of floating plants... And be aware that two years is about the natural life span of Betta splendens. Bob Fenner>\

Re: overfed Betta – 08/01/07
<The beginnings of sentences are capitalized...>
thank you so much for your help and advice, (and sorry for the typo of Beta)
I am reading up on the links you gave me, and looking into a heater. I have two more questions, if I get a heater, will the light overheat his water at night?
<No... these devices are thermostatic...>
And also, as for Mr. Fishy's bulging tummy, besides cutting down on feedings, is there anything I can do?
<Yes... read... where you were referred to... You will find ref. to Epsom Salt use...>
I haven't fed him today yet, and the bulge is still the same size... I'm really worried. I know 2 years is pretty much where is his clock is set, but I still don't want him to die because of anything I've done (like overfeeding), will he be ok?
<Keep reading. RMF>

Inappetent Betta, recovering from fin rot
Hello!
<Hi there>
I could really use some help getting my betta to eat. I've had him for about 2 weeks in a planted a 5-gallon tank along with 7 very young (i.e. really small) danios, 2 Amano shrimp, and a snail. He has not eaten at all since I got him, and is beginning to lose color not only on his head but his body as well. He had fin/tail rot when I got him that I treated with a combination of MelaFix
<Not worthwhile... and possibly a cause of trouble here>
and tetracycline and I increased aquarium salt to 1 tsp/gallon. He appears to be regrowing some healthy fin now, but still will not eat. I have been doing 25% water changes every other day, but hope to move to a slightly less frequent schedule once my fish is healthy. I have tried TetraMin tropical fish flakes, Hikari Betta Bio Gold, live bloodworms,
<SHOULD eat these...>
thawed/shelled/cut-up frozen pea, and a prepared frozen mixed feed containing Artemia, daphnia, krill, Spirulina, and vitamins. He completely ignores all food, and is not very active, preferring to hang out right next to the tank heater (he rests on the top suction cup so he doesn't have to swim at all to breathe). Water temperature is steady somewhere between 77 and 78 degrees Fahrenheit. All water chemical parameters are good (no measurable ammonia, nitrites, or nitrates; pH between 6.8 and 7.2: "hardness" reads moderate (50), and buffering capacity reads 120 on a 5-in-1 test strip. The tank is aerated and now that I've finished with the meds, filtered using a Whisper tank filter containing activated carbon. I'm afraid if he doesn't eat soon, he'll be an ex-Betta. Please help me avoid that circumstance!
-A.
<I'd raise the temp. to the low eighties F., perhaps isolate the betta to reduce the competition with the Danios... try the Bloodworms (frozen-defrosted) or Tubifex/Blackworms the same... Bob Fenner>

Follow up: Inappetent Betta, recovering from fin rot 7/9/07
Hello, again!
<Adelia>
I am still unsuccessful in getting my betta to eat anything. Per your suggestion, I isolated him in a breeding net to remove competition, turned up the tank temperature to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, and tried frozen/thawed Tubifex worms. I've also tried frozen/thawed mosquito larvae and bits of garlic on the advice of my LFS, and re-tried live bloodworms. He just hangs out near the surface and completely ignores all food, even when it's literally sitting on his nose! He seems to be getting thinner and thinner. This leaves me with three main questions:
1) Is there anything else I can try?
<Yes... the addition of Epsom Salt is often efficacious here... See WWM... the search tool... re dosing, cautionary remarks>
2) If there is nothing else to try, when, if ever, is it time to consider euthanasia? Do I just let him starve himself and hope he eats at some point? Is he at all likely to spontaneously recover? He doesn't seem to be a "happy" fish, and I don't want him to suffer unnecessarily.
<There are many "things" yet to try... and do know that often these issues resolve themselves spontaneously>
3) If euthanasia should be considered, what is the best method? I've never euthanized a fish before.
<I'd hold off... These fish can go w/o eating for surprisingly long periods of time... do try a few live tubificid worms in a small "cup" of sinking plastic or glass in its net>
For your reference, I've included the original message with your response below.
-A.
<Thank you for this. Don't give up hope. Bob Fenner>

Betta... non-feeding while owner's on holiday – 6/17/07
Hello
<Greetings.>
I have a male Siamese fighting fish very happy and in an ideal environment.
<By which you mean a 5-10 gallon tank with a filter and heater, right? Check the nitrite is at zero and the pH where it should be -- you want ideal water conditions before you leave.>
He is fed everyday (Hikari and sometimes bloodworms).
<OK.>
I am in a situation where I must leave him for a week. Would he be OK with that?
<Absolutely fine, assuming he's well fed and in good condition. Do a 50% water changes the day before. A largish tank will dilute any potential problems, such as the heater or filter stopping. Check the filter is working properly and not clogged up. Siphon out any uneaten food so there isn't an "ammonia bomb" ticking away in your absence. Make sure the lid is securely fitted so he can't jump out. Even small fish can manage 1-2 weeks without food, and larger things, like big catfish, much longer without food.>
Maggie
<Cheers, Neale>

Betta Question, Mmmm, fdg., comp. mostly – 06/15/07
Hello
<Hello.>
First, I would like to thank you for your wonderful site. It has been very helpful to me in the past few months.
<Cool.>
About four months ago, I was in Wal-Mart picking up some bedding for my bearded dragon. The store I go to has the fish and reptile supplies together, so while I was there I spied the betta shelf. There were only two fish left, a little double-tailed female who was, sadly, already dead, and a medium sized male. He was a dull grayish-white, but he seemed healthy enough and I felt bad for him (just call me a sucker) so I decided to purchase him.
<Whilst I am entirely sympathetic to your actions, the downside to buying unhappy animals to "rescue" them is it encourages those retailers to get some more and keep them in similar conditions.>
I got a two gallon "bowl" (it is rectangular shaped and has a purple vented lid so it really isn't a bowl) along with some purple glass marbles, a silk plant, some Betta Bio-gold, freeze-dried blood worms, freeze dried brine shrimp, and some sinking carnivore pellets.
<What about a heater? Bettas are tropical fish, and need a constant 25 degrees C (77 F) to do well. Much below and they become sickly. Like all labyrinth fish (gouramis, climbing perch, etc.) bettas are very sensitive to cold air, and need warm, moist air above the tank as well. I'm not wild about 2-gallon bowls for bettas, though I accept many people keep them thus.>
I had never had a betta before, but I recalled that they are carnivorous.
<Yes, they are largely carnivorous. Mostly insect larvae, such as mosquito and midge larvae.>
I took him home and set up his aquarium in the reptile room where the temp stays at a steady 78 degrees at all times.
<Ah, very good. No problems with the heat and hopefully humidity.>
He is fed twice a day from the above list in a semi-random fashion. I make sure he gets some of each item at least once every week. I do, by the way, have to break off small pieces of the sinking carnivore pellets, as they were designed for much larger fish. I do partial water changes every 5 days or so.
<All sounds fine.>
Riku is now a gorgeous pale orange with red flecks in caudal and anal fins. His fins also have light sky blue streaks (I believe it is called a lace pattern?) that match his eyes depending on how the light hits him. My pity purchase turned out to be quite the little jewel and he has such a personality. He dances for me every time I sit in front of him. He tends to ignore everyone but me, except he flares at my sister (good fishie; wish I could say I taught him to do that).
<Ah, how sweet.>
Following the advice on your site, I have decided to move him to a 5 gallon system with a live Java Fern. I have read that bettas are compatible with Corydoras, but I have also read that they will eat neons and other small fish.
<Mixing Betta spp. with other fish is kind of a dark art. Corydoras should be absolutely fine. Other completely docile, bottom dwellers would also be good, such as kuhli loaches and Ancistrus Suckermouth catfish. Midwater fish are more tricky. I can't imagine a Betta splendens (which is your species) eating neon tetras, though the larger mouthbrooding Betta species can and do eat small fish. Neon tetras have sometimes been reported as fin-nippers when kept with bettas, so approach this combination with caution. I've done it, and had no problems, but others have not been so lucky. I'd actually recommend going for more docile schooling fish, such as marble hatchetfish, which are totally placid animals. Gobies are another option, but finding freshwater gobies is a bit hit and miss. All this said, 5 gallons is too small for very many fishes. Depends a bit on the shape of the aquarium, but realistically half a dozen neons plus the betta is probably about all you can fit in there without the tank looking overcrowded. Water quality is another issue, though neither neons nor bettas are terribly messy fishes, especially if you avoid overfeeding.>
I had planned on adding about three Corydoras habrosus or hastatus, but they are smaller even than some neons. Would Riku eat them?
<No. Those lovely little catfish will be too spiny. At least, the adults would be. Obviously if you put in teeny-tiny juveniles in with a fully grown betta, there's a risk he might view them as live food! Both those species of Corydoras are nice but not exactly bullet-proof, so water quality is important.>
Thanks again for the awesome site, and I apologize for the long email.
<No probs.>
Regards,
Suzanne
<Cheers, Neale>

Betta beh. and feeding comments – 06/07/07
Hi Crew!
<Hello.>
I wanted to share a couple of observations about my Betta, which I thought might be of interest to other Betta owners.
<Cool.>
I read recently (was it today?) on WWM that Bettas don't eat flakes. Mine does :-) He started eating them when he was in the community tank. Now he gets mostly Betta Bio-Gold micro-pellets, also bloodworms, the occasional brine shrimp treat, and just about anything else we give the other fish.
<Ah, the question of what-eats-what. For every person who has a fish that only eats live herrings and durian fruits, you have another who keeps the same species but finds it enjoys chopped spam and eggplant. Really, all you can do when recommending diet is to say what you've found works well. I agree prepared foods such as flake and pellets are often very good. But understanding the wild diet for a given species is important. In the case of livebearers, goldfish, and many cichlids, people ignore the fact they are largely vegetarians in the wild. Some catfish eat wood. Bettas feed on insect larvae, so things like mosquito larvae and bloodworms are certainly the most authentic diet. But just like people, fish thrive when given a balanced variety.>
One thing though. When he hasn't seen flakes in a while, he tends to forget that they're edible and doesn't notice them as long as they're floating on the surface. I have to poke one or two underwater before he takes a bite and "remembers" they're edible. Then he goes to the surface and grabs the floating ones. Maybe he's come to associate my finger-poking with food, no matter what's at the end of said finger...
<Fancy bettas are dumb as posts. Too much inbreeding, not enough natural selection.>
Also, he goes *nuts* for peas! My Mollies won't touch the stuff, but he just *loves* them. He jumps for his pellets when we stick them on a wet finger and hang it just above the water surface. For pea bits, he jumps out at least a third of his body as soon as he's had a first taste, I don't even have the time to put them in the water!
<Interesting your mollies don't like the peas. But do make sure they get some sort of greens: vegetarian flake food is ideal, but otherwise supplement their diet with Sushi Nori, for example. I can't stress this enough: in the wild, mollies are mostly algae eaters.>
And a strange behavior. As I mentioned earlier, he used to be in a community tank with Mollies. Everything was fine until, after about three weeks of peaceful cohabitation, he decided that he didn't recognize them anymore when the lights were off. Lights on, no problem, totally peaceful tank. Lights off, rampage. Lights on again, no problem. So we had to take him out of that tank (good thing because I now want to go brackish for the Mollies...). He's got his own Eclipse 3 now. He tried to taste the Apple Snail's antennas at first, then apparently decided they're not edible. He still comes to investigate every time the snail decides to do something though :-)
<Many fish are curious about apple snails and nip them. Perhaps their tentacles look like worms? Mixing bettas with community fish is sometimes unpredictable, as you suggest. It may simply be boredom. Without any of its own kind to interact with, it decided to make-do by picking on something else. Animals just aren't solitary, one-of-a-kind things though we treat them as such. Anyway, your mollies will be 100% happier in brackish water. Since brackish is my thing, I think you'll find this aspect a great way to specialise. Make sure you look over the Brackish section of WWM... http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BrackishSubWebIndex/BrackishSubWebIndex.htm .>
I hope this has been helpful!
<Indeed it was, so thanks for writing.>
Thank you!
Audrey
<Cheers, Neale>

Betta used to eating Tetra Fin 6/5/07
Hello Crew,
<Hi there - you've got Jorie tonight. I apologize for the late response; I just "found" this query in my in-box...we recently switched e-mail servers; perhaps that caused the delay? In any case, hope this response isn't too late.>
I have been reading as much as possible in the two days that I have had my two new Crowntail Bettas.
<Wonderful. Usually better to read prior to purchasing livestock, but definitely better late than never!>
I bought them at Wal-Mart mostly to save them from those little cups.

They are each in a brandy snifter type vase - in about a half gallon of water.
<Unfortunately this is not much better than the "cups" you "rescued" the bettas from...>
Snifter will hold about a gallon to a gallon and a half, and I hope to increase water level.
<Curious as to why you are waiting for the water increase? Just be aware that bettas are labyrinth fish, and take in air for the surface; do be sure to leave enough surface area that they can comfortable do so.
With regard to an ideal betta set-up, I like to recommend a minimum of a 3 gallon heated and filtered tank. Of course, you could do a 5 or 10 gallon tank, and this would likely seem the equivalent of a luxury condo to the betta, but I've found a 3 gal. to be the absolute minimum. Additionally, a three gallon tank is large enough to accommodate a 25 watt heater (bettas like a steady temperature of around 80-82 degrees F), and a weekly 50% water change allows the nitrogen cycle to remain established (read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm ), yet provide enough clean water for the fish. Personally, I use Marineland Eclipse 3 gallon tanks- reasonable in cost, and they come with the filtration already built in. Quite simple. See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm>
I live in a rural area of Florida, near the St. Johns River, and have well water , which has sulphur in it. I do not put bleach in it as my well installer instructed. I bought Zephyr Hills bottled spring water to fill the fish bowls. The temperature is 74 degrees.
<Definitely do not use bleach!
Bottled water is lacking in certain essential elements, from a fish's standpoint. Better to use something like Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Tap Water Filter (basically a simple de-ionizing unit), or purchase RO/DI (reverse osmosis/de-ionized water) directly from a fish store. Both RO/DI and DI water will strip water of some essential nutrients, but there are products that add these back in, as well as adjusting the pH from the 5.0 it comes of the filtration unit at. I use the Electro-Right and pH Adjust combo myself. 74 degrees F is way too cold for your bettas; another reason to invest in at least 3 gallon tanks, which will accommodate 25 watt submersible heaters.>
The two Bettas have not eaten.
<Although Bettas can go for quite some time without eating, in this case, I would opine they are probably cold and uncomfortable in their homes...>
From reading on your site I learned that it may take a few days to adjust.
<This is true, but they do need reasonable conditions to adjust to.>
I have offered them dehydrated blood worms, frozen blood worms, Betta BioGold pellets, frozen brine shrimp, and some other kind of pellets.
<I'm surprised the fish haven't responded to the frozen bloodworms...mine usually go crazy for these, as well as frozen Mysis. Pellets are "hit or miss" - really depends on the Betta's individual personality. Ditch the brine shrimp, as it has basically no nutritional value. As for the dehydrated bloodworms, I'd say your better off with the frozen variety, as most fish seem to prefer it. Although you can purchase a garlic oil supplement called Kent's Garlic Xtreme to help stimulate appetite, I do believe if you improve the conditions you are keeping these Bettas in, you'll see a marked improvement.>
Have offered very small amounts, and then siphoned out about an hour or so later.
<Good. Only feed what the fish can consume in a couple of minutes (for example, I feed 3-4 pellets, or 2-3 bloodworms per feeding per Betta). Great that you aren't letting the uneaten food decay, as this will pollute the water.>
I just called Wal-Mart and learned that they have been being fed Tetra something, a flake food.

Should I feed them what they are used to eating until they acclimate to their new surroundings?
<See above.>
Additionally, I believe the water they are in has a high pH level. I drove 40 miles to St. Augustine to get the liquid reagent that you recommended in some of your posts only to find that my well water, and the bottled spring water both read 7.8 or above.
<In all honesty, fish require stability more than precision, in the area of water quality. This is especially true of Bettas, which are pretty adaptable to many conditions. I am glad you purchased a test kit (hopefully a liquid one, and not a "strip" kind, as the latter is highly inaccurate), but truly, giving the Bettas larger tanks, filtration and heat will likely solve all your problems.>
The color is blue. I bought the pH kit with the pH Up and pH Down additives. When I add
one dose of the Ph down to a gallon of my well water, the reading is still blue (7.8 or above).
<I don't recommend "monkeying" with the pH. I am confused, though, when you talk about adjusting the well water's pH - I thought you were using spring water? In any case, see the info. above about using filtered water. Also, read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/taptrtmnt.htm
The reagent does not test for levels above 7.8, so I don't know what my actual level is.
<A saltwater pH test kit will allow you to read higher pH levels.>
Bottle directions state :
"To lower ph, add two drops for each gallon of water.
Take another pH reading before adding another dose of pH Down.
Some fish may be sensitive to pH adjustments greater than 0.2 in a 24 hour period, so changes of this magnitude should be done with extreme care." But I don't understand
what a pH adjustment of 0.2 is equal to in drops. I saw something somewhere about trying to lower pH with driftwood, but have no idea how to do that.
<This is the DI unit I was referring to before: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=4484&Ntt=tap%20water%20filter&Ntk=All&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Np=1&N=2004&Nty=1 ;. It will produce water with a neutral pH of 5.0. When the ElecroRight and pH Adjust products are used (2 tsp. per 5 gallon, and 1 tsp. per 5 gallon, respectively)(, the pH should be exactly 7.0. I think this is the best solution for you, as it sounds as though your tap water isn't so great. Also, www.drsfostersmith.com is an excellent source of aquarium supplies; you mention that you live in a rural area, so this may help you. www.bigalsonline.com is another good choice.>
Tonight's partial water change (about 50%) included a water conditioner, Beta Plus by Nutrafin. I was told by a pet shop owner that it was important for Bettas kept in city water or well water in this area.
<You must take pet store employees' advice with a grain of salt. It isn't always wrong, but it is highly suspect. Best to do your own independent research. So long as any fish is properly acclimated, it can successfully be switched from tap/well water to filtered water.>
Another Betta keeper has had her fish in plain bottled Spring water for two years,
and a third person I spoke with, had her fish in plain old city water that she let stand for 24 hours before using.
<You'll always see conflicting advice in this hobby. I can tell you for a fact that bottled water is missing necessary elements for fishkeeping purposes, and will likely shorten a fish's lifespan, as a result. That isn't to say some people don't/can't keep fish in these conditions, but it isn't necessarily ideal. Same goes for the well water. The advice I am giving you has been well-researched and corroborated by many hobbyists, and I am confident that it will help you and your Betta. You must always consider the source of any information you use...>
Neither of these two had Crowntail however. I seem to have read somewhere that Crowntail need a lower pH then the regular Bettas.
<I've never read/seen this. What I can tell you is that Crowntail bettas are more genetically altered/manipulated, and can be more sensitive to poor water quality than "regular" Bettas, but the standard "requirements" for Bettas remains the same. Some quality Betta websites include:
http://www.bcbetta.com/
http://www.bettacave.com/
http://www.ibcbettas.com/ >
Now that I have the pH test drops I will check the city water at work tomorrow. If it's lower than what I'm using, I think I can avoid a nervous breakdown. If it isn't, I hope you can recommend something.
<I recommend reading/understanding basic Betta requirements and focusing more on the "big picture" - that is, instead of fiddling with the pH to make it just so, focus your energies on getting larger filtered/heated tanks for your new pets, and perhaps consider a DI filtration unit. Yes, there is some initial cost involved, but it will serve you and your Bettas well in the long run, I promise!>
Thank you in advance for your time.
<You're welcome. Hope I've helped!>
Gracin
<Jorie>

Betta not eating 5/25/07
Hi,
<Hello there- Jorie here today.>
I have a betta in a 10 gallon tank by himself.
<A luxury condo for a betta - I'm sure he loves it!>
The tank is cycled, ammonia/nitrite/nitrate all low if not zero.
<Ammonia and nitrite need to be at zero, not just low. Nitrates can be as high as 20 ppm, but obviously lower is better.>
The tank is heated to about 79 degrees, and the betta is actually pretty active.
<Sounds like a good setup.>
However, whenever I feed him, he never seems to eat anything. I usually come back an hour later and have to remove whatever food is in there so it doesn't mess up the water quality. I have tried flake food, floating pellets, sinking pellets, nothing seems to work. I haven't tried any live foods yet, but I am wondering if that will just encourage the picky eating behavior.
<I would suggest trying frozen, then thawed bloodworms and/or Mysis shrimp. My bettas absolutely love both of these foods. Also, you can add a drop or two of Kent's Garlic Xtreme (or pure garlic oil from the spice section of the grocery store) to stimulate appetite. I'd be surprised if one or both of these options doesn't work. I wouldn't suggest going to live foods unless both of the frozen options fail; you are right, it will just encourage the finicky eating. Also, there is always the possibility of introducing disease via the live food.
Best of luck,
Jorie>

Betta vacation feeding 5/11/07
Ok, I'm just going to bother you one more time and that's it! Is it ok if the fish goes w/o food for 3 days? If I have to go away for longer, how would I feed the fish?
Thanks again-
Margaret
<Mmm, for three days I would not bother with such feeding... not likely a problem for a healthy Betta to go w/o feeding for this interval. Some folks might proscribe some live tubificid worms, even an automatic feeder (with pelleted food), but I would just leave the fish be for this time. Bob Fenner>

HELP!!!! My children have just fed out two male Betta's freshly defrosted free range chicken breast (skinless if it makes a difference to my question). 4/26/07
<At least it was free-range chicken!>
I caught them just as the last tiny pieces were being placed in their respective tanks.
<Oops.>
The Bettas ate it all up and my son (who is 9) tells me they only got 3 small pieces each.
<Of course they did! Probably compared to the boring dried food they've been getting, this was like dining out at the Ritz!>
There is no sign of the chicken in their tanks and my kids told me they attacked it as soon as it hit the water.
<Hah!>
What is going to happen to my fish because of this. Will they die and if not is it ok for them to have this occasionally as I have never seen them eat their food this quickly.
<Should be fine. The risk to the fish is small. HOWEVER, the risk to your children from salmonella is more significant. So I trust that they washed their hands afterwards, and you probably ought to assume the aquarium is infected as well, and institute a "hand cleaning protocol" after working/playing with the aquarium. That's good animal husbandry practice anyway, so worth teaching the kids. Again, while aquaria can "catch" salmonella bacteria, the risk isn't that great (after all, they have aquaria in hospitals!) but you should be aware of it, and perhaps consult your healthcare practitioner for advice.>
Thank you for your advice in advance.
<No problems.>
Emily

My Betta won't eat 3/19/07
Hey crew members (specifically the crew member answering my query),
Well my long living betta of nearly 4 years died on Tuesday night. As I just couldn't bear the thought of having an empty tank, on Thursday (pay day,) I went on the search for a new fish and saw my new betta. He was alert in the shop had made a bubble nest, flared at himself occasionally when he'd see his reflection in the tank and had greedily scoffed down his food when I asked to feed him.
<All good signs>
I asked the shop owner to hold him for me went home and made sure everything was still good in the betta tank then picked him up on Friday on my way home from work. He seemed to settle in well and I didn't think much of it when he refused food Friday night (the trauma of the move and all).
<Yes>
On Saturday morning, he still refused his betta pellets, so I tried some frozen blood worms and he refused those as well. I pipetted them out of the tank (so as not to leave them to foul the water) and left him alone assuming he was still adjusting. Tried him on frozen glass worms about mid day and he still ignored them, and Saturday night I still had no luck in feeding him the glass worms, blood worms or pellets. So Sunday I thought I'd pull out the big guns. I went and got him some live brine shrimp (I know they're not very nutritious, but I know my betta in the past loved them as a treat every once in a while) and still he refused to eat.
<Nothing wrong with an occasional treat...>
I was starting to get a bit worried at this point, and called up a friend at the DPI to see if they were still doing research on mosquito larvae and if they were if I could come get some (they're all in sterile containers and screened regularly to keep them free from disease causing agents) as I've never seen a betta that could pass up a live mosquito larvae, and well, my first, he wouldn't touch them. So after three days of pipetting out uneaten food I am a bit concerned about him not eating, as he still refused food this morning before I left for work. He has no obvious signs of illness (no stringy poop...well no poop at all for that matter, good colouration, no signs of any external parasitic organisms, breathing fine...gills don't appear to be inflamed at all, not bloated, swims fine...in fact he's been cruising all around the tank checking himself out at all sides, resting on the bottom for a bit before going for a cruise again pretty much just acting like a normal betta minus the eating).
So now I'm in a bit of a quandary as to what to do. He's in a 60 litre tank, heated to 28°C
<82.4 F. to you yanks>
with a small DIY filter Ammonia - 0 Nitrite - 0 Nitrate - 0 pH - 7.2 (this has always been very stable). This is the exact same set up as used for the other betta for at least 2 years except I had removed the plants after my other betta died and put them into my P. gertrudae tank for breeding substrate. So I guess my question: Is this tank too big for him?
<Mmm... No>
 Maybe he's not use to having so much room and can't find the food?
<A good guess...>
My first betta had been in a 20L tank initially and I moved him into the larger tank when I started breeding him. Maybe going from the small 10L tank they had him in at the store to the 60L tank I have him in now was too much of a culture shock for him. Should I get out my 20L tank again and put him in that for a bit until he gets adjusted?
<Worth trying>
Or do you have any other suggestions on how to get him to feed?
<Yes... I would try a rather large water change (like half) and kick the temperature up another degree or two C.. This won't be "too high">
I didn't think black worms would work as I'm pretty sure bettas are mainly surface feeders and the black worms sink almost immediately.
Any help would be appreciated.
Amanda
<Life to you my friend. Bob Fenner>

Betta Failure!...reading, more info 3/16/2007
Hi, I just recently killed my first Betta in under 8 hours!!
<<Oh no.>>
The idiots at the store did not mention anything about care, and we used tap water
:-(
<<You should have done your research before purchase.>>
Anyway, his replacement seems to be doing ok, (2 days and counting). However, I read on your site that Bettas should only get one, maybe 2 pellets a day. The pellet food we have for ours says 3-4 pellets, twice a day. Who is right??
<<Depends on the size of the betta, and personal opinion. A much more pressing concern is my worry that your tank is not cycled. Please provide me with some more information, and search freshwater nitrogen cycle.>> <Please give URL, referent. RMF>
 :-) Thanks,
Jennifer
<<Please get back to me/reading. Lisa Brown.>>

Re: Betta Failure!...reading, more info 3/16/2007 3/21/07
Thank you! We actually exchanged the tank we had for a new, larger one with a filtrations system, live plants, gravel instead of glass beads, etc. that should be a much better environment. We are changing the water (80%) weekly, leaving the new water, treated, and out for 24 hours before adding so that it comes to the same temperature. Is there anything else major that I am not doing?
<<Yes, did you cycle your tank? Is it heated? Do you know what I mean by cycled? http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm. Lisa Brown.>>
Jennifer

Re: Betta Failure!...reading, more info 3/21/07
Yes, it's heated. I know when you say cycled, you are talking about the freshwater nitrogen cycle, but I don't know what I'm really supposed to do.
<<ok. Now that you have a fish in the tank, you should be doing massive daily water changes to keep the ammonia and nitrIte readings at 0. That link I provided will give more information. Lisa.>>
Jennifer Grant

Betta Help!!! fdg. 2/14/07
Hello, I just wanted to know an answer to my question. My betta is not eating the betta pellets that I am giving him, what should I do now????
<May be your environment is unsuitable... too cold, unfiltered... Might be this individual is just unfamiliar with prepared foods... Please read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/betfdgfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. BobF>

Feeding a Betta 11/18/06
Dear WWM Crew,
<<Hello. Tom here.>>
I have a question regarding, "feeding a Betta".
<<Okay.>>
I am currently feeding my Betta a daily mixture of the following: live black worms, dried blood worms and Betta pellets; twice a day.
<<Sounds fine as long as it’s not so much as to turn him into a “porker”.>>
I read on the Internet that is good to feed Bettas such foods like: Small bits of Tubifex worm cubes, small pieces of spinach and carrots.
<<Foods that are high in protein and fiber are all good for Bettas as long as what you offer is small enough for them to eat without difficulty.>>
Can you recommend other foods that I can feed my Betta?
<<Daphnia (mosquito larva) and brine shrimp are a couple of foods that mine seems to love.>>
Also, how much do you feed a Betta? I heard that you feed them how much they can consume in one to two minutes.
<<That’s a bit of an issue with Bettas. I’m sure you’ve observed yours gobbling down food as I have with mine. What they’re “capable” of consuming in about two minutes is probably too much. You’ll see that we frequently offer that a Betta’s stomach is about the size of one of its eyes as a measure of reference. A good way to check him physically is to look at the stomach area below and just behind the head. There should be a slight “rounding” in this region. If it’s sunken, he’s not getting enough. If it’s rounded more than slightly, he needs less food (or a trip to Weight Watchers!)>>
Thanks in advance for your help.
<<Happy to do so. Best regards. Tom>>

Feeding Bettas 10/23/06
Hi!!!:D
<<Well, hi back to you. Tom here.>>
I am the owner of 3 Bettas, two females and one male.
<<I'm the owner of only one... (sigh) :) >>
I know that you suggest not overfeeding them, but I would like to know about how much to give them. I don't want to overfeed, but I also don't want to starve them to death!! (I freak out thinking about what could happen if I do O_O;;;)
<<Trust me, Laura, unless you stop feeding them all together, they won't starve! To give you a "perspective" (I didn't think this one up myself), a Betta's stomach is about the size of its eye. (I don't want to know how someone figured that out!) Kidding aside, about one flake of food per day is all the more a Betta really needs. Warm-blooded critters like humans need food for "fuel" to maintain their body temperatures. Fish don't. They, obviously, need food to survive but it isn't nearly as critical and, in fact, can go for long periods without eating.>>
Could you at least give me an idea? I feed them freeze dried bloodworms and AQUAculture Betta Pellet Food.
<<Sure. A couple of bloodworms per day or a pellet, maybe two. More than that and you're overfeeding.>>
Laura
<<Tom>>

Re: Feeding Bettas 10/23/06
Thank you for such a speedy reply!
<<You’re quite welcome.>>
My Bettas Sakura (female, red), Hinata (female, blue), and Sausuke (male, Blue body with red fins except for the rim :D they're blue as well) also thank you!
<<They’re most welcome, as well. Love their names, by the way.>>
My roommates freaked out when I told them about how much we should feed them. Of course, I really don't blame them because I had forgotten to explain how big their stomachs were. -_-;;;
<<Since there may come a time when you might call on your roommates to “fish sit” for you, it’s important that they fully appreciate what you’ve shared with them. Better not to feed them at all for a few days than to feed too much in a gesture of misplaced kindness.>>
I have one more really quick question for you (sorry ^_^"""). I've read that it's ok to have females in together, but can you have 1 male and females together in a tank? I've been wondering because my male isn't in the best tank in the world, and the one the females are in is MUCH better (bigger and newer).
<<Wish I could tell you this would be fine, Laura, but I wouldn’t advise it. Male Bettas can be nearly as aggressive with females as they are with other males. Additionally, the male is the protector of the nest after spawning and will definitely become aggressive during this time. Better to leave things as they are.>>
Laura
P.S. Sorry if I say something incorrect. I'm kind of a newbie with fish and I'm trying to learn all I can to make sure I do EVERYTHING right! I don't want sick or dead fishies :'(
<<You’re doing fine, Laura. Your questions are good ones and I trust you’ve come away with some information that will help you keep your pets happy and thriving. My best to you. Tom>>

Smaller-than-average beta pellets? 9/27/06
Hello,
<Hi there>
My beta has trouble chewing and swallowing full-sized Hikari pellets. The only way I can make sure she's eating them is to cut them in half with my fingernail, but this isn't working too well. I've been told that there are smaller pellets on the market, but have been unable to find them. Can you recommend such a product to me? Thanks very much.
Julia
<I'd look into the finer grades of Spectrum Fish Foods here... along with the occasional offering of some small meaty frozen/defrosted animal foods for treats. Bob Fenner>

Betta Not Eating - 09/07/06
Hello from Tampa, I have had my Betta Tommy for about 5 months and a week ago he stopped eating, became listless and shudders and trembles when and if he swims. He used to love me and would get excited when he saw me, now he hides. He usually sits on the bottom of the tank but the few times he comes to the top for a breath of fresh air and he sees me he shudders and hides in his weeds. He looks whitish and puffy under his throat and seems to have a hard time breathing. I changed his water and added ick medicine. Then I went to 1 pet store and 1 fish/aquarium store and they both they recommended I start using Melafix, but I see you don't recommend it. I changed the water again and have been adding that for 2 days. I also am trying to feed him Jungle Anti Parasite food, because one said he may have parasites. He's in a one gallon tank. Should I change the water again and add Epsom salts? How much for a one gallon tank and how often. I had canned peas and they sunk so I'm freezing some now. I was also told to get him live shrimp. I appreciate any help.
thanks, Linda
< Make sure that he is warm at about 80 F. I would recommend treating with Nitrofuranace as per the directions on the package. It sounds like a bacterial infection.-Chuck>

Betta Not Retrieving Food 8/28/06
Hi Crew at WWM,
I have read previous answered questions, but have not found any answers for my questions. I have a Betta for 7 months now, who I named Bartholomew. I set him up in a 5 1/2 gallon tank with filter, air pump and heater, which is set at 79 degrees. Recently, he started having problems retrieving food; he lunges and misses. I feed him an alternating diet of blood worms and Betta pellets; one in the morning and one at night. Bart still is an excellent eater, but he needs a little help by pushing the pellet below water line or holding blood worm below water line. Bart's colors are bright with no signs of disease. He swims around aggressively. Do you have any suggestions on how to feed him and what could be causing this problem?
<Your system and feeding sound fine... there may be "something" amiss with this Bettas vision, coordination due to genetics...>
Also, at one time I recently experienced a problem; woke him from sleeping to feed him late at night, he immediately came to the top of the tank and quickly went to the bottom of the tank, lost his color and stayed there for about 15 minutes.
<To be expected... "light-shocked"...>
He gradually got his color back and came to the top of the tank, ate and was swimming around as his usual self. Soon I will be going on vacation and leaving Bart with someone else to take care of him. I will be keeping him in the same 5 1/2 gallon tank with the same set up as I previously described. My question is can the new surrounding effect him in any way, since he was easily agitated by waking him to feed him? Thanks ahead for your assistance.
<Can... Bettas like tortoises are creatures of extreme/regular habits. Hopefully yours will overcome this current feeding difficulty. Bob Fenner>

Better Betta Nutrition, ... 8/17/06
 Hello
<Good evening!>
I have a beautiful Betta fish (male) he is extremely picky about what he eats the only thing that I have found that he will eat are these little flakes for Betta's I'm sure there OK for him right?
<Actually you should mix up his diet. Try some frozen foods too.>
well anyway right now he is in a little fish bowl and he looks very unhappy because the lack of space I have 20 gallon tank I want to put him in and I was wondering what other kinds of fish that are regularly sold in local pets store I could put in there with him if they can be with other fish I had read somewhere that they can but I'm not sure what kind!!!
<Bettas can be fine is a bowl if its filtered and most importantly heated. But if you would like to add him to a fresh community tank, one without too much water disruption you can. Read here for all kinds of info about tankmates and so on. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/betta_splendens.htm Have a great one, Jen S.>
 thank you for your help
Mandy Leach

Siamese Fighting fish, no info. 6/22/06
Greetings!
I have a Betta that I bought in February, which has recently been not acting as normal
<As?>
Firstly, he has stopped eating the "Betta flakes" that came with him when I bought him.
<Don't blame him there... unpalatable>
Is it possible that these are now stale, and don't taste so nice?
<Likely so, yes>
I have bought him Freeze dried bloodworms, and for a while, these went over well, but now he isn't really keen on them either.
Secondly, on his back (Dorsal) he has a long white section, which he didn't have originally. Only showed up a couple of weeks ago. It's exactly the size
and shape of the area that sits out of the water when he floats at the surface, is about 15mm long, and 2mm from the top of his body.
I don't think its Ich, because it's not a spot and it's not raised, and I couldn't find anything else about such a random change.
Cheers, Phil
<...? Is this animal in a heated, filtered system? Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Betta Not Eating - 05/07/2006
I am so happy to find this site. We have a beautiful pink beta for about 1 year. We have him in a 1 to 2 gallon tank and have been feeding him dried bloodworms every 3 days for the last year. I change the water once a week and he has been very active and happy and wonderful. His name is Sammy.
Well we went away for 10 days and I had a friend feed him twice. I told her to give him a drop each time but when we got home practically all of the food from the container was gone. I changed the water and he was still eating the next 1 or 2 times I fed him. This was 5 weeks ago. 4 weeks ago he started twitching in his tank and swimming on the side he hasn't gone to the bathroom or eaten since then. I started him on the Maracyn-two for 6 days even though his skin looked fine and he was not bloated at all. He still is not bloated and I tried some Epsom salt and even tried giving him the inside of a pea which he did not take. What should I do? Do you think all of that food that was left in the tank or that he ate polluted him? Can he ever recover after not eating or going to the bathroom in 4 weeks? My kids are all so upset. We love him so much. Please can you offer any advice or is this the end. Thank you all so very much. -Audrey
< It is possible to have an internal bacterial infection without the swelling. I would clean the tank and treat with Metronidazole.-Chuck>

Feeding Betta on vacation - 5/4/2006
Dear Mr. Fenner,
<<Ms. Brown today!>>
My boyfriend and I have had our beta fish for a few months now. His name is Murray and he is a beautiful blue color. We rescued him from my boyfriend's younger sister who wasn't taking very good care of him. We got him a tank and a heater and some aquatic plants, and aquarium furniture and he seems pretty happy.
<<I’m sure he is!>>
We have gotten very attached to Murray--he has quickly become a member of the family.
<<As do all pets.>>
Soon we will be going out of town for 5 days and we don't have anyone to come in a feed Murray, so we are very concerned about him starving. We'll, of course, change his water right before we leave--but what will he do for food?
<>
Is he able to survive five days without food? Or is there some device we can get to feed him?
<<There are many ‘auto-feeders’ available commercially. Do steer away from feeding blocks.>>
Thank you so much for your time and any information you might have.
Best Regards,
Kathleen
<<Glad to help. Lisa.>>

Betta not eating - 04/19/06
Crew,
<Barry>
First, thank you for having this very informative site. I only just discovered it but won't ever lose it.
My question - I have a beta for two yrs now, in a 2 1/2 gal tank on my desk at work. I've always fed him pellets (which I now understand isn't the best approach) which he's attacked and eaten (several) each day. For three weeks now I find he tries for the pellet but can't hold it in his mouth and spits it out. I've attempted smashing the pellets, but he doesn't go for the small pieces. Last week I put live blood worms into the tank - he had interest (curiosity) but hasn't eaten one - that I've seen. There have been no changes in his environment and his actions, color and humor remain as normal, but he hasn't eaten and I wonder if it has something to do with his mouth.
<Maybe, but doubtful... much more likely an "environmental" cause here... worse, "age">
Thank you again for taking this question - I look forward to any advice you may offer so that my desk buddy can remain with me (and co-workers as well) for sometime. We're worried about him.
Barry
<Do give this a read: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above... Even if you've read it before. I would make a large/r water change, check nitrogenous levels, temperature here. Bob Fenner>

My (cold) Betta, Kappa 3/31/06
Hello Crew!
I emailed you not too long ago about my Betta, Gamma, who was sick. Although I took all your recommendations, I didn't get him the help he needed quickly
enough, and he passed away. I don't believe he passed away from any illness, but rather from malnutrition - because although I fed him, he refused to eat.
Because Gamma was only in my care for a week and a half, I was able to return him to Wal-Mart and get a new Betta. This Betta is a beautiful light blue Betta, with dark blue and red fins, and I have named him Kappa. However, I really want to have better luck with Kappa than I did with Gamma.
Is there any advice you could give me on how to keep Kappa as healthy as possible, and to keep him from getting sick?
<Most everything I know re Betta splendens captive care is summarized, posted on WWM: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwlvstkind2.htm>
Right now, Kappa is in a 1 gallon tank. He is the only fish in the tank and for the time being he will remain that way. The tank has an undergravel filter, as well as a light, which I sometimes use, though not often. Kappa has a fish rock, and two silk plants in the tank with him, and eventually I am going to buy some live Waterlilies to add to the tank. The water in the tank is tapwater that I have conditioned with a conditioner called "Aqua Pure" and which has a half teaspoon of aquarium salt in it. I mixed this in a gallon jug, before adding it to the tank.
How can I ensure that Kappa remains healthy?
<Needs a heater... to be kept warm enough, consistently...>
Like Gamma, he is not eating, however as I just got him today, I assume that he is still getting used to
his surroundings and will eat in time. Is there any way I can coerce him to eat?
<Posted>
I have tried freeze dried blood worms, as well as Betta pellets, but he won't eat either. I have Betta flakes as well, but as Gamma utterly refused them, I haven't tried them with Kappa yet.
Thanks a ton!
--Michelle "Washi" Maxfield
<Time to read. Bob Fenner>

Re: My (still cold) Betta, Kappa 3/31/06
Here is an update, although you haven't emailed me back yet.
Kappa is now eating! However, although he will appear to eat, and possibly to "chew" his food, he tends to spit out the flakes and the pellets. Is there something wrong with him?
<Likely just cold>
Other than that he appears to be doing quite well in his new home. I am quite glad that I adopted Kappa and I hope to have him for a long time.
Thanks for your help and advice!
--Michelle "Washi" Maxfield
<... please read where you've been sent. Bob Fenner>

Betta Not Eating - 02/20/06
Hi Bob, I've had this orange/brown beta fish for 25 months. Hasn't eaten in weeks (no exaggeration) and is skittish when I try to feed him. Otherwise hangs out, listless, on the silk plant, almost out of the water. I do offer food every day but end up removing it later in the day. He is in a 2.5 gallon
tank with a heater that brings the water to 74-76 degrees. I figured he is old and will die, but this is taking forever. Any suggestions?
< Crank the water temp up to 80-82 F and do a 50% water change. Offer some live food live Calif black worms to get him going.-Chuck>
(I have another beta, blue, that was given to me at the same time, in another tank beside him. This one is doing fine. Of course he could be much
younger...who knows?) Thank you very much. Dorothy Marshall

Bettas Won't Eat 2/18/06
Dear Robert Fenner, I've really found your wet web Betta site useful and informative. It's surprising how these little fish vary so much in behaviour though. I wonder if you could advise me on a few problems I've had with my guys. I've had Blue Boy for a year now. He has quite a personality, and used to
rub up against my fingers in greeting just like a cat. He loved Tetra brand tropical flakes, and yes I know this isn't advised, but they sold it to me
at the aquarium shop. He also eats the blood worms in little envelopes and loves fresh fish when I have it. Live food isn't practical for one fish.
Here in England, Frozen seems to come in big frozen chunks. His behaviour has changed in the last few days though. I just bought a new
30 litre tank and a new beta. The new guy is living in a 4 litre bowl with gravel and a fake plant. I was told that I needed to have the tank up and
running for a week, though I don't see how the is preferable to a bowl. Anyway, I temporarily placed the bowl near Blue Boy's tank just while I was
sorting it out. Well, normally placid Blue Boy flared and fluffed and since then has not been so happy to greet me, either hiding behind a plant or
looking rather aggressive. The bowl hasn't been anywhere near him in two days. Also the new guy wont eat. I call him Narcissus, coz he's more interested
in his reflection than anything else. I've tried him on Betta pellets, flake food, blood worms (dried and moist from envelopes.) Although he's
tried the pellets, they get spat out. He doesn't try the other foods. He seems healthy and mildly interested in the food, but won't actually eat. He
constantly races around the bowl and seems very small compared to Blue Boy. I know this can't go on forever. Is this behaviour normal in new situations? I was going to put the older fish in the new tank with a few Corys and danios, and the new one in the older, smaller tank as he is smaller. Now I think maybe I'll just upset them more. Any advice would be so appreciated. Thanks again for your excellent site.
Sincerely,
Judith Lowe
< In the wild male Bettas take over a small stringent pond or bog and kill off all other male Bettas as rivals. Your beta has seen another beta recently and knows he is around somewhere. He want to see the new beta first before the new beta sees him. The new beta is also aware of a larger beta in the area. Keep them separated and they will both settle down and eat over time.-Chuck>

Blind Betta Can't Eat 2/14/06
Hi there, Thank you for taking my question. I have recently cured (I think) a beta of pop-eye. At this time, although the swelling has subsided, the fish appears to be blind. As a result, he has not been eating. I've even put the food, literally, on his "lips", but he's not interested. In order to keep him from starving, is there a liquid nutrient I can put in the water? Or do you have another suggestion? My fish has not eaten, to my knowledge, for approx. two weeks now. Any advice you can offer will be greatly appreciated. B. Hancock
< Get some live black worms . Get some on the end of a pair of tweezers and drop them on the head /mouth area of the beta. The action of the live worm may get him to eat.-Chuck>

Betta Constipation & Betta Feeding 1/4/06
Hello! I have 2 questions about Betta fish.
 1.) I believe that 1 of our Betta fish is constipated. His sides & belly seem very swollen. He floats sideways & seems to not be able to swim downwards... it's like he keeps floating to the top. He's very hesitant about eating. He usually loves to eat... especially bloodworms. He also darts around his bowl really fast. This has just started all this within the past day or 2. What can I do about his constipation? From what I've read on your site, I believe it's constipation.
<The best curative here is Epsom Salt...>
 2.) What, how much, & how often should I be feeding them?
<This is also posted on WWM>
We have gotten so many different stories from so many people that we are really confused. I usually give them either a few bloodworms, a few crumbled flakes, or a couple of crisps 2-3 times a day. They usually finish the food really quick.
<Twice, thrice is fine>
 I am a bit more nervous about caring for them as the 1 that we had the longest.. about 1 1/2 years...died about a month ago. We think he ate some of his plastic plant & it got stuck in his mouth somehow. The middle one... which we got a few months after the 1st...seems to be doing pretty well. The newest one...which we got about a week after the 1st one died...about a month ago...is the constipated one.
 We've never had fish before we got the Bettas. About 6 months ago...we tried an aquarium with like 10 fish & an algae eater...but all the fish died & we gave back the algae eater back. Bettas seem so easy to care for...for the most part. They are in big bowls right now...but we are going to get an aquarium (with a divider) to put them in...So they can have more space & the constant warmth they need. Also, I'm very nervous about putting any plants/decorations in with them. Is it just a freak thing that the Betta ate the plant?
<Very unusual>
I would like to put some decorations & plants in so they don't get bored & can hide when they want to...but need advice on it 1st.
 <Please see WWM re Betta Systems...>
 Sorry to go on so long. Any help/advice you could offer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 Kelly
<Bob Fenner>

Piggy Bettas.. Female Bettas Hogging Food - 11/01/2005
Hi, I'm Chris, and I have a large aquarium with female Bettas, Corys, Oto cats, and some diamond neon tetras.
<Alright....>
The posts I've searched on you website, show a lot about Bettas not eating. That's not my problem. I've been told Bettas will only eat brine shrimp, bloodworms, etc. But mine eat sinking pellets for the Corys, algae tablets and flakes for the Otos, mini-pellets for the Neons. And, the 4 Bettas are so fast (and fat) that they get to the food before the others.
<Heh! A "pack" of female Bettas can almost outdo a pack of ravenous wolves, I think! Very efficient little eaters, in groups.>
They push the Corys away from the pellets to get at it themselves. Any suggestions on how to feed my other fish, and keep the piggy Bettas away? I added the Corys and Otos only 2 weeks ago to help keep the tank clean. They seem to be okay - so far.
<My best recommendation is to feed the Bettas on one side of the tank, and once their attention is in the food there, feed everyone else on the other side. You may actually need to separate the Bettas from the rest of the fish - for the good of the Bettas as much as everyone else - they can easily cause themselves to get quite obese.>
Thank you for your expertise.
<And thank you for writing in. Wishing you well, -Sabrina>

New Betta, Feeding; Old Betta, Fungus - 10/21/2005
Hello,
<Hi.>
My friend just got a new blue male Betta yesterday, and he's living in a beautiful 1 gallon bowl with a live plant. The problem is that he doesn't want to eat. She's tried blood worms, Betta premium foods, and pellets, and he doesn't eat anything. He's kind of small, so I don't know if that has anything to do with it. What can she do?
<Just give him some time to chill out - it may be a couple of days before he accepts food. If in a few days he still won't eat, try offering him frozen or live foods - bloodworms or brine shrimp, or mosquito larvae - NOT Tubifex worms.>
On another note, my red Betta is doing fine after his little drunken accident,
<Little drunken accident.... Uhh, did you write to us before about this? I have some vague memory.... Attaching previous correspondence when you email us works wonders.... we go through some dozens of questions *a day* sometimes.>
but he still has the fungus by his gills. The fungus is white and doesn't have any texture to it. I think it had to do with the fact that when I first got him I didn't change the water for about two weeks, but rest assure I change his water every week now and I got him a 2.5 gallon tank. So what can I do about the fungus?
<Description is too vague.... also with so very little information about your system, I am uncomfortable giving any recommendation to medicate as the problem may be entirely environmental.... Please be testing ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate, and maintain ammonia and nitrite at ZERO, nitrate less than 20ppm, with water changes.>
How much salt should I add to this new tank?
<None if you like - or no more than one tablespoon per five to ten gallons.>
Thanks, -Worried owners
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>

Betta (Over) Feeding 10/19/05
Hi just a quick question about my Siamese fighting fish,
<Sure.>
I tried looking if the question has been answered before but in vain....
I've had it for about 6 months always feeding it flakes which seemed good I decided to change to Wardley pellets as am leaving country and it will be easier for my nephew to feed pellets as I can tell him to put in a certain amount of pellets rather than guessing how many flakes to sprinkle....<Good idea.>
anyway at the start he would eat but it would go in his mouth and he would spit it out as I guess they r bigger than he is used to.....this would happen several times with the pellet getting smaller and smaller until finished, I normally feed it 4/5 pellets a day spread over two feeding periods a day...
<Far to much food for a Betta. Bettas have quite slow metabolisms; feeding 3-4 times a week is all that is necessary, if you wish to do daily feedings 1-2 pellets are sufficient.>
after a few days it would take longer and longer for him to even think of eating the pellets and I've noticed several lying at the bottom of the tank uneaten...
<A sign of over feeding.>
please advise I would like to keep feeding him these as its easier to measure, can I maybe crush them up to smaller pieces or would that cloud the water or should I revert to the flakes
<Please feed less.>
please reply
thanking you,
Rehman
<No trouble, AdamJ.>

Re: Betta (Over) Feeding 10/19/05
Thanks for your quick reply Adam, much appreciated...
<No problem.>
one last question, u said am over feeding it I always thought that a fish will eat and eat and eat no matter how much u give it till it dies?
I guess this is a myth?
<Yes.>
reply and thanks again
<No trouble.>
p.s. I will feed my Siamese fighting fish 2 Wardley pellets a day (one in morning and one in evening)
<Even with this feeding regime I would pick at least one day out of the week and fast him that day, Adam J.>

Female beta on a hunger strike -- Update No. 3 9/23/05
Hi Crew,
<Mario>
Please read below for some background information concerning my female Betta.
I have had her for a year now, and since the beginning of August she has not been eating on a regular basis.
Maybe one or two small pieces of bloodworms or brine shrimps (dried) every couple of days.
The water is filtered, and heated at 80 with the A @ 0, Ni @ 0 and Na @ 5.
I have tried frozen bloodworms, garlic extract, and vitamin drops, one or two drops a day. Also I combined the two, but still she won't eat on a regular basis.
I do about a 25% water change 2 twice a week to keep the Na at about 5ppm.
She is generating a bit of stools, this could be a sign he is eating, I only have fake plants (silk), she is on the side that contains the filter (sponge).
Any other, suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Mario D.
<See our previous correspondence... below, on WWM under Betta Feeding... try live foods. Bob Fenner>

Female Betta on a hunger strike -- Update No. 4, more useful information... 10/17/05
Hi Crew,
This all started in early August. See below for past e-mails. I could not find any live food, so I got frozen bloodworms to feed her. She would only eat one worm out of a hand full that I would try to feed her. Most of the time when she tries to eat a worm, I notice that when she chews, she looks like she is choking on the food and then she would spit out what she does not want to eat. Does the choking mean something is wrong with she?
<Maybe>
Some people I spoke to say she is acting her age (18 - 20 months now), that she is in the process of passing on.
<Possibly, yes>
Some say she is just being picky, and give her more time.
<Always a good idea>
The water is heated and the readings are A and NI at zero, and NA at 5ppm, the male she shares the tank with is doing fine.
<... there should not be a male permanently present with female Bettas>
With your experience, do you see any hope she can be saved?
<Yes>
I tried garlic and vitamins drops (1 a day), but this has not pick up her desire to eat. Should I increase the drops?
<Not necessarily>
She swims around, but mostly stays at the bottom. But she does sometime show playful moods. You suggestion on the matter would greatly be appreciated.
Thanks, Mario D.
<... for the semi-last time, you should have read what is posted on WWM re Betta splendens from the get-go... Separate the male and female. Bob Fenner>

Female Betta on a hunger strike -- Update No. 5 -- 10/18/2005
Hi Bob,
<Sabrina with you in his stead>
Yes, the male and the female are separated by a divider and I use a screen with a small window, so that they can only see each other from that window.
<Still perhaps not an ideal situation - Bettas, like other animals, can smell each other, etc., and it may be a touch stressful to her to be constantly in contact (even though it's "distant") with the male.>
The tank is a 5 gallon with the divider they each have 2.5 gallon.
<Good enough on space, to be sure. You might try removing her to an entirely separate system altogether and see if she responds well.>
I tried to put them together a long time ago, I saw the female turn from a dark blue to a complete white with horizontal lines and I know she was not a happy camper.
<True enough.>
Thanks again, for your input.

Mario D.
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>

Siamese Fighting Fish feeding 8/31/05
Hi, I recently purchased a Siamese Fighting Fish named Dragon and have made a home for it by itself in a double Penn-Plax Betta Bow Front Tank (no, this is not an advertisement for Penn-Plax).
I have just noticed that Dragon has not consumed any of the Penn-Plax Pro Balance Betta Food Pellets I have fed it over the past week. Every time I place a pellet in the tank he swims around it extremely disinterested. I am worried and do not know what to do.
Please advise.
<Hi Prudence, Jorie here. Some Bettas are extremely picky with what they eat. I am not familiar with the pellets you describe, but I'd try offering your fish either frozen, then thawed bloodworms or Mysid shrimp. To thaw, you can add some garlic extract to the water (just a drop!) Garlic is an appetite stimulant and most fish can't resist food soaked in it! You could try soaking a pellet in the garlic extract as well (for a different feeding, of course) and see if that makes him interested. If not, try switching brands of dry food. I personally like Hikari's beta food - good quality stuff.>
Thanks ;)
P.S. Re cleaning the tank (bowl), I know that I should half empty the tank each week and add treated water, however is it best to take the fish out and clean the whole tank i.e. stones and all?.
<No, you don't want to remove the fish each time you do a water change, as this will needlessly stress him out. Leaving the stones in place will allow the tank to cycle, as the beneficial bacteria will establish colonies underneath. If things get really grungy, in time, it's OK to clean everything and temporarily re-house your beta, but you shouldn't need to do that more than once a year or so...assuming the tank you are describing has filtration (Sorry, not familiar with the brand). Just be careful not to overfeed and the tank will stay cleaner! Good luck, Jorie>

Geriatric Jerry? - 08/17/2005
Hi, my beta, Jerry, has been with me for nearly 3 years.
<A long time, for a beta, these days. And that's even on top of however old he was upon purchase....>
He has always eaten well. I started off with beta food pellets, which I used for about 2 years. Recently, he began to go for the pellets and missing them.
<Probably from getting on in age.>
After a while he would stop because he doesn't like them soggy. I then changed his food to freeze dried bloodworms (everyday) hoping that maybe he was bored. He did ok. But he still goes food the food and misses it.
<Have you tried frozen bloodworms? These *might* be easier for him to grab....>
I'm not sure it's his mouth or eyes, but if he goes for the food it must mean he sees it, right?
<Maybe, or maybe just doesn't see it very well. It could just be that he's having trouble maneuvering.... all part of aging, I fear.>
I just feel so bad for him. Also this week I thought I was going to lose him, he began to lie on his side on the bottom breathing deeply. This happened in his 10 gallon tank. So I changed him back to the fish bowl, which he eventually became himself.
<Ah, good. Do please test for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate in the 10g tank! There may be something amiss that, given time, will affect the younger, more spry beta, as well.>
One more thing, I noticed he was swollen on his right side toward his tail. Some things that might help you help me:
He lived in a 10 gal. w/ another male beta, but divided for about 3 months. The food problem began before Tom, the new beta. By the way Tom is doing fine, its just Jerry. I separated them just in case Jerry is contagious. Please help! What do you think is wrong with Jerry?
<Just as above.... Unfortunately, as much as I'd like, there's no cure for age.>
And how can I help?
<You already are.... softer foods, less water flow, perhaps even floating plants for him to be able to rest near the surface will all be helpful to him.>
Thank you so very much!!
<Thanks for writing in, and for providing such great care for your fish! Wishing you well, -Sabrina>

Female beta on a hunger strike, except when it comes to bloodworms 8/14/05
Hi Crew.
<Mario>
Your input would greatly be appreciated on the following matter.
I have a 5-gallon aquarium with a sponge filter and a heater than has been running since January/2005 and cycled since April/2005 that houses two fishes (Bettas - a male and a female, both are 1 year old), with a separator so each have there own space without any bullying.
<Sounds very nice>
My situation is the female has stop eating for about a week now (i.e. Freeze dried bloodworms or brine shrimps, and even the bio-gold pellets). So, last night I tried frozen bloodworms which she ate a good amount, but did spit out a few.
<Mmmm>
The male as not been affected, he is doing just fine.
I tested the water, my A @ ZERO, NI @ ZERO, NA @ 10-20,
<Twenty is getting to be a bit worrisome... on the high side>
PH about 7.2-7.6 and the temperature around 80 F. I have been to do small water changes (20%) every second day (with some aquarium salt) hoping this would get her going again.
<Good idea>
Her color looks fine (I see no visible signs of illness); therefore I feel it is more internal. She swims about with less fury than before, but spends a good part of the time at the bottom, acting/feeling depress.
<Mmm, doubt, or at least discount "something internal" here... as you've had the tank, fish so long...>
Thinking back I remembered the chlorine and chloramines remover that I used a week ago, do have a little odor; maybe it was bad enough to affect her, but not the male.
<Possible... but my guess is on the high nitrate, and whatever else (unmeasured) that this portends... I would set out a good volume of water (a few gallons), make this ready, and do a large water change here... this will likely stir the females appetite... additionally, you might add a bit of liquid vitamins (for fish or humans.... they're the same) to the water, foods...>
Should I continue with the water changes (adding some aquarium salt or should change to Epsom or sea salt) or should I medicate?

Also, when I defrost a cube of frozen bloodworm, is it OK to store the unused portion, wrapped with plastic in the fridge for them to eat the next day, if so, how many days can I keep the worms in and out of the fridge before they go bad?
<Can last several days refrigerated this way. Bob Fenner>
Thanks again,
Mario D.

Re: Female beta on a hunger strike -- Update 8/21/05
Hi Crew,
<Mario II>
After receiving your reply last Sunday (Please read below for some background information), I did a massive water change and was able to bring the Nitrates down to 5ppm.
<Good>
Since then she has eaten very little about 3 pellets and would chew on some freeze dried bloodworms or brine shrimps, but only to spit out not long after. I tried to feed her frozen bloodworms, but she refused to eat.
<Takes time to change fish behavior...>
But most of the time she would just simply look at the food and show not interest in eating. I did add some vitamins drops (made for children), two drops each day and to the food but with no real success.
<Takes time...>
She does produce a little stools each day, so she must have been eating enough to generate stools. I only have a plastic plant and the filter on she side on the tank.
This afternoon (Saturday), I tested the water and the readings were the same as all week, the A and NI at zero, and the NA at 5.
<Okay>
But today she was the least active of the whole week, would not eat at all, stayed at the bottom, only to come up for air and then head back to the bottom and hide mostly behind the plant. I used a flashlight and I noticed that she is breathing more rapidly today than I have noticed before.
Any suggestions at this point would greatly be appreciated.
Thanks again,
Mario D.
<Time going by my friend. Please be patient, keep the faith. Bob Fenner>

Re: Female beta on a hunger strike -- Update No. 2 8/27/05
Hi Crew,
Another week is about to pass, where my female Betta has not eaten, since Wednesday August 17 (3 pellets).

For some background information, please read below.
She mostly stays at the bottom, only coming to the top for some air. I checked the water again last night, the reads are still the same A @ zero, NI @ zero and NA @ 5ppm, I do a small water change (20%) every 2 days, hoping this would spike her some, and also to keep the NA down.
I still give 2 drops of vitamins each day. If, she continues to not eat how much time do you think she has left?
<A few weeks likely>
Thanks again for all your insight to date on this matter, what do you suggest I do going forward.
Thanks Again,
Mario D.

Betta not eating since I bought him ....for 2 weeks, WWM
Hi,
I bought a new Betta fish about 2 weeks ago from a Petco store. Its not been eating since then. I tried to feed him with Hikari BioGold pellet and flakes, but he doesn't seems to eat any of these. He seems to be very active and
making bubbles. I do water change every week. He is in 1 Gal container.
Please suggest what should I do.
Thanks.
<Bettas don't always take to dried foods and should never be fed them exclusively. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/betfdgfaqs.htm
Bob Fenner>

Re: Betta not eating since I bought him ....for 2 weeks.
Hello,
Thanks for your email.
<Welcome>
I bought a new Betta Food today - Freeze Dried Bloodworms. and my Betta just loves eating it. Could you please tell me if a Betta can survive just on this food, does it meet its nutritional requirements?
<Cannot, and Betta Foods/Feeding/Nutrition FAQs are posted on WWM>
I tried putting one Hikari BioGold pellet in between, but my Betta spits it out. Also, how much should I feed him? He finishes whatever I give in fraction of a second!
Thanks
DS
<Please go to WWM... Bob F>

Betta not eating
I've noticed that over the last couple of weeks my Betta has gradually stopped eating. He is on a diet of bloodworms and has had a healthy appetite until now - does not like anything else at this point.
<Not good>
He will show interest in the food, circling and hovering below the food but will not actually feed. Both eyes seem slightly enlarged but are not cloudy. Do they have vision problems with pop eye. I test the water and do regular partial water changes - he is in a 3.5 gal. tank - no ammonia problems. PH is high but that is the tap water here.
I have read your recommendation for adding Epsom salts and will try that if you think it would help.
Very worried owner.
<You could try the Epsom, but very likely your Betta is suffering from a nutritional deficiency... I would try some other foods... live black worms, brine shrimp, Daphnia... and ultimately wean it on to a complete pelleted diet, in addition to occasional other meaty/fresh or frozen/defrosted, freeze-dried... foods. Bob Fenner>

Re: Betta not eating
Hi again -
So far no luck with the new food regime. I have tried brine shrimp and daphnia and he turns up his snout - won't even taste. I was only able to find freeze dried - nothing live at our pet store (small town, fairly far out of the loop). Eyes have protruded now to the point of having a white ring around them.
<Not good>
Still no visible cloudiness. He's not bloated. Can't see any lesions. Breathing does seem a bit laboured. When I partial change water I don't use fresh from the tap treated water, it's treated and sits in a jug for at least a week. Checked the water again - no ammonia, PH is 8.2 (same as always). His tank has an undergravel filter system, some mostly brown algae growth on the gravel and plastic rock and plant ornaments. Tank temperature is 76 and steady. Can't think of anything else to tell you. Any suggestions welcome.
Way more worried owner.
<Have you perused the Betta articles, archived FAQs on WWM: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwlivestkindex.htm. It might give you solace, perhaps something new to consider... Bob Fenner>

New Betta set up and feeding
Hi, I am really worried about my new Betta. I just got my new Betta and its my first time having a fish. I absolutely love him and have a few questions. I have the vase and lily set up which I heard is not the best, but I also heard if you have it set up right it will be just fine. So what is the right way to have this set up? Also I was watching him eat today and I noticed when he would take a piece of food and he would spit it back out. A lot of food sinks to the bottom too. It is flake food called BettaMin Tropical Medley made by Tetra. What's Going On?!?
Thanks
Amanda
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwlivestkindex.htm scroll down to the area on Bettas... read re their set-ups, care... Bob Fenner>

Re: Follow up on sick Betta, Jwala (Hindi - Fire) That Won't Eat
Dear Bob,
<Karl>
Thank you for your help with my Betta that wouldn't eat. My Betta was named Jwala by one of my coworkers, Jwala being Hindi for fire. He still lives but isn't thriving. If you remember, he went a full month without eating after the room temperature dropped one night. I tried different foods as you suggested and finally got him to eat flake. I also raised the room temperature.
It has been anther three weeks and at this point, I could use some more advice. The first time Jwala ate after his one-month fast, he rolled over on his side and floated at the surface looking very much as if he were dead. I thought the food had killed him, but after 20 minutes he was swimming upright again. Gradually, over a period of days, I increased the amount of food I offered him. Every time he eats he repeats the floating-on-his-side-looking-dead behavior. He can only eat very small pieces of food that float well. Betta pellets float well, but seem to be too big for him still. If the food doesn't float well, he cannot get it.
I've seen him try to chase a sinking piece. He swims fiercely but cannot dive more than an inch or so and comes bobbing back to the surface like a cork. I wonder whether there is something wrong with his swim bladder or whether he is just too weak.
<Perhaps both... have you tried adding a bit (the equivalent of a level teaspoon per five gallons) of Epsom salt to the water? This might solve the floating problem here>
Unfortunately, I will be out of the country for about a month. One of my coworkers has volunteered to tend Jwala while I am gone. Do you have any suggestions for feeding Jwala. I have been feeding him small amounts of crushed flake three or four times a day. I doubt that my coworker will be able to do the same.
Thank you. Your help has been very well appreciated.
Karl
<Am fearful that the flakes won't sustain him... do add the Epsom. Bob Fenner>

Peas? How? Feeding Bettas - I Want to Know!
I've been reading the forums and see where feeding Bettas peas is a 'good thing'.
<Mmm, if they'll take them... better to offer a mix of meaty foods that are bite-sized along with a staple diet of dried "Betta food">
How exactly do I do this? Pieces of peas with tweezers? Only frozen then thawed peas? Raw? Canned?
<Canned or frozen, squeezed to rupture, toss skin...>
My Betta has developed what looks to be constipation. So I've upped the dose of aquarium salt in his 1 gal bowl (w/ rocks [no gravel] and other "town like" decor) I saw where putting a philodendron in the bowl is good too? True?
<Nope, not good...>
I've had him now for about a year and he's done rather well especially once I put heat to his bowl about 3 mo.s ago :) He really enjoys slurping up any mosquito larvae I feed him. But that is seasonal and I need to get him a more variety of foods.
<Look for frozen, or freeze- or otherwise dried...>
Only gets the pellets right now. From reading your forums, I believe the pellets may be the constipation problem. I'm feeding him twice daily w/ one pellet (until I get some dried and/or frozen foods) and he's hungry each time. His color is good and I completely change out his bowl each week (the rocks, etc. too) and only use spring bottled water...as our local tap water kills fish...and may be doing a number on me as well. I always (especially after seeing some white fuzzies on him once) put a few grains of aquarium salt in with the new water. He's always made bubbles and still does as we speak. Other than the swollen belly, he's doing great. So, please tell me. What am I doing wrong that I don't know about?
Thank you for your time.
Stacy

Re: pea? Why a pea?
I just wanted to let Mike D know why a pea was likely added to the aquarium in the Betta Compatibility FAQ (Betta not feeding, but being fed on): The mushy innards of a cooked pea is supposed to act as a laxative for constipated fish. I only have experience using this with my male Betta, but I can say that it worked well.
<Thanks much for this. Don't know where MikeD has gone off to, but will post for all's edification. Bob Fenner>

Red Betta Blues pt2
Thank you, I realized the address thing right after I hit send... fortunately, I never posted that picture anywhere else. I've been doing water changes for them both more often, both fish are still active...adding salt to both tanks. They both seem to be doing a lot better, the lump on the red fish is about half the size as it was yesterday and I bought them some blood worms, which they go nuts for over the flake food. I read the thing about the pea earlier, but I have no method of cooking peas in my dorm room unless they serve some in the cafeteria by chance. But, he seems to be doing a lot better now that I laid off the flakes.
Ali
<Good to hear. Nothing wrong with flake as a staple food. It's balanced and formulated to be a complete diet. Use the natural foods a few times a week as a treat food. Helps keep things moving. Don>

This Betta Could use an Italian Grandmother!
Thanks for responding to my earlier message about the cats--spraying the cat once with water seemed to do the trick.
<One stop shopping, I guess! I didn't see your earlier question, but I'll try to help you out with your Betta...this is Jorie.>
My Beta seems very happy (big bubble nest & lots of swimming), but I still have a couple of concerns. He doesn't really eat--just a tiny bite here or there. I've tried flake food & freeze dried brine shrimp. Do I need to break it up for him? Should I try another type of food.
<I've never been able to get a Betta to accept flakes. Try Hikari's Betta pellets (good quality food, can't remember the exact name), and maybe consider investing in some frozen bloodworms and/or Mysid shrimp - my Bettas are wild for both! Of course, be careful not to overfeed...maybe 5 or so worms, and 1 Mysid (separate feedings) - your Betta's stomach is only about the size of his eye. I'd yet to find a Betta who doesn't like those meaty foods...>
Also, his bottom fin looks great, but his top fin is clumped together (he looked like that when I got him). Does he have a problem?
<Well, hard to say, but if it's always been that way, perhaps this is just the way the fin is? Can you get him to flare out by teasing him with your finger up against the tank, or even a mirror? Will he spread his top fin then? If so, check to make sure there's no visible signs of fin rot, etc. If not, I wouldn't worry, but do double-check.>
Is 2.5 gallons too small to heat? We have him in the warmest room in the house. His water is at 79 degrees with the light on during the day. This may sound like a stupid question, but do the heaters have thermostats?
<You can purchase a submersible 25watt heater for a 2-3 gallon tank; in fact, that's exactly what I run in both of my 3 gal. Betta tanks. They do have internal "thermostats", that will allow them to shut off when the water reaches the temp. you want, but you do have to play with the settings at first to get it right. I'd suggest you experiment in a bucket before adding the heater to the tank. Once you get it set, you can just leave it alone, but it can be tricky to get that setting right at first on the smaller heaters. Hope I've helped, Jorie.>

Betta not eating, acting normally
Hello -
<Good morrow>
I've been through your site, reading the articles regarding Bettas not eating, yet they all list lethargy, staying at the bottom of the bowl, etc. as symptoms. My Betta seems to be acting normally - he flares regularly, & is very active, yet seems to show no interest in his pellets (Hikari Bio-Gold, fyi). When he does, he will take one in his mouth, then spit it out. I've tried blood worms as well, but he will not eat. He's now been without food for just over a week. I did a complete water change when I noticed his behaviour, & cleaned his gravel & "plants" with Aquarium-salt water, as there was some algae growth. I figured he was not liking that green water too much, but the change did not seem to help. There appears to be no physical changes in his appearance, either.
<Good descriptions, moves thus far>
He was sick a couple of months ago, & was treated with Betta Fix, which seemed to help him along in about a week. At that time, he demonstrated the symptoms that the other visitors to your site have mentioned.
<Okay>
I'm stumped, & starting to worry. I've had this guy for about 1 year now, so he's not new to his environment. Would love to get your feedback.
Thanks.
LMT
<I would add "a pinch" of Epsom Salt to the system water... and look into some frozen (defrost this first) food... like Brine Shrimp, Daphnia, Mysis... this should trigger your Betta's appetite. Bob Fenner>

Betta not liking worms
About a month ago, I bought my new Betta some Freeze Dried Blood Worms, I give them to him about twice a week, but he never eats them, I'll put them in before I go to bed at night, and they are still there not touched by morning..
<Mmm, a couple of things... you might try soaking these dried worms in a bit of water for an hour or so before offering... and don't leave food in the container overnight... best to offer while you can observe, remove if not consumed in say, five, ten minutes>
he eats the pellets like they are the best thing that's ever happened to a fish.
Why does he not like the worms, and what else is there to give him for that vitamin the worms provide?
thanks!!
<There are a few well-formulated dried/pelleted "Betta foods", that are complete nutritionally, palatable... Other meaty foods include Daphnia, Brine Shrimp, Glassworms... others, that are best (for one fish) bought, kept frozen, a bit defrosted... and alternated with dried foods on other days. Bob Fenner>

Ghost Catfish and Bettas health/feeding and compatibility
I currently Have 3 Ghost catfish a female Betta and 2 Dwarf frogs in a 10 gallon tank. I have had some problems with the ghostfish staying alive. I was wondering if the Betta was a bad idea to put with the ghostfish?
<These fishes should get along well enough together... the catfish are pretty quick to avoid periodic aggression in your size system... One thing they do need is occasional meaty food... and a lack of metal objects in their water. We have some scant coverage here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/silurids.htm Do check out your water quality to assure it is within their natural range (see WWM and fishbase.org re the species) and add some meaty foods daily to their diet. Bob Fenner>

Betta Upgrade
Hi, I have a question about my Betta and eating. Recently my Betta lived in a 1/2 gallon bowl. After each water change he would make bubble nests, and ate twice a day, and would even jump for his food sometimes, he seemed like a pretty happy guy. I recently got a 10 gallon tank with a filter and heater, treated the water let it cycle and finally put him in. He took to it immediately. He is always exploring and swimming around. He hangs out mainly by the filter and hugs the heater a lot. My problem is its been about 3 days and he hasn't eaten once. I put the food in and it just gets swept away with the current or drops to the bottom. I usually feed him Betta bites which he seemed to love and on occasion I would put in some freeze dried worms. When he didn't eat the bites I put in the worms, and he didn't eat those either. He's not hanging out at the bottom of the tank at all, always at the top, but its really concerning to me that he hasn't eaten. I even tried to float a cup and put the food in it so that it wouldn't float away, but he just looked at it and wasn't interested. What should I do? I'm considering putting him in the bowl each time I want him to eat, but I don't think that is a good idea??
Thank you.
<First let me say thank you! A 10 gallon with a filter and heater is a great home for a Betta! You could even add a few Corys in there. It's normal for him not to eat for a few days after a move. Are you testing his water? A fishless cycle requires about 6 weeks to complete, with a some sort of decaying organic matter to feed the filter's bacterial colony. You must test in order to see when the cycling is complete. Even if you did not do this, it's OK. Just don't add any more fish for a while. Do a 30% water change once or twice a week for a few weeks and you should be fine. A single Betta, lightly feed, will not foul the water quickly. But testing the water is the only way to be sure. Make sure you do not overfeed and always use a gravel vac to remove waste and uneaten food when doing water changes. This is very important. Good luck. Don>

Betta Feeding
Hi, I bought a Betta one week