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Vacation, Tank
Maintenance 8/14//08
Hi there. How are you today?
<Hello>
I have a question that I hope you can help me out with.
<Will try.>
I have a ten gallon tank with 2 danios and one dwarf Gourami. I have a box
filter plus another filter that filters up to 15 gallons I believe. I am
about to go on a 3 week vacation, but I usually clean it at least once every
week. I am not worried about the food as I can drop the feeder blocks in.
<Those can be quite problematic, I would either invest in an automatic
feeder or get a friend to stop in every few days to feed. Also allows them
to make sure everything is still working.>
But is it fine to not clean it for 3 weeks?
<Not ideal, but should be ok.>
I know it sounds like a long time. I am not sure what to do. I also have a
heater to keep the tank warm. Thanks so much for your time.
<If it puts your mind at easy you could hire a maintenance company to stop
in and give it a water change, however I would guess that as long as the
fish are healthy and the tank is in good shape it will be fine.>
<Chris>
Re:
Daughter's Goldfish, help... fdg. – 08/17/07
Well, Thunder looks better and is living higher up in the
tank...away from the bottom. There is nothing IN the tank with
him, I threw it all out the other night, having understood the
gravel and such was a bad idea
<Mmm, no... not necessarily. Is often useful for providing
needed biological filter area...>
.....we are going away for the weekend. Do you think he'll
survive if we leave him, should we bring him, should we get a
neighbor in to feed him??? Again, you rock. Thanks. Annie
<I would NOT feed this fish over the weekend... NOR provide
"vacation food" in its system... BobF>
Betta... non-feeding while owner's on holiday
– 6/17/07
Hello
<Greetings.>
I have a male Siamese fighting fish very happy and in an ideal environment.
<By which you mean a 5-10 gallon tank with a filter and heater, right? Check the
nitrite is at zero and the pH where it should be -- you want ideal water
conditions before you leave.>
He is fed everyday (Hikari and sometimes bloodworms).
<OK.>
I am in a situation where I must leave him for a week. Would he be OK with that?
<Absolutely fine, assuming he's well fed and in good condition. Do a 50% water
changes the day before. A largish tank will dilute any potential problems, such
as the heater or filter stopping. Check the filter is working properly and not
clogged up. Siphon out any uneaten food so there isn't an "ammonia bomb" ticking
away in your absence. Make sure the lid is securely fitted so he can't jump out.
Even small fish can manage 1-2 weeks without food, and larger things, like big
catfish, much longer without food.>
Maggie
<Cheers, Neale>
Betta vacation feeding 5/11/07
Ok, I'm just going to bother you one more time and that's it! Is it ok if
the fish goes w/o food for 3 days? If I have to go away for longer, how would I
feed the fish?
Thanks again-
Margaret
<Mmm, for three days I would not bother with such feeding... not likely a
problem for a healthy Betta to go w/o feeding for this interval. Some folks
might proscribe some live tubificid worms, even an automatic feeder (with
pelleted food), but I would just leave the fish be for this time. Bob Fenner>
Any Tips? Feeding FW on vacation 3/16/07
Hello,
I just wanted to know if you could help me with my situation. I have ! red
platy,1blue platy,1 crystal platy, 2 sunset platies, alot of platy babies, and a
fancy tail guppy in a 10 gallon tank. The adult platies aren't fighting or
eating the fry, they just swim happily LOL ^_^. Well I am going on vacation and
just wanted to know what I could use to feed the fry, and also the adults. I
currently use liquid fry food for the fry and flakes for the adults. Could you
recommend something for me?
<Best to have an automatic feeder (Eheim is what I use)... if gone more than a
few days... Second best to have someone come by, leave out pre-measured
portions, and have them put in... About the worst is to use the in-tank
"vacation feeders"... almost non-nutritive and stuck together with chalky
material that is deleterious to livestock. Bob Fenner> <<Oh! I've just seen
that Tetra has some new entries in this category... I would try them. RMF>>
Betta on Spring Break? 2/14/2007
Hi-
<<Hello Claire!>>
I'm not quite sure which category this falls under, but my friend and I need
some advice about our bettas. We are going on a trip for Spring Break and
need to bring our bettas with us (I have 2, she has 1, and we'll be taking
our roommates' as well).
<<Is there really no one that can come care for them while you’re away>>
We are wondering if it is safe to take our bettas in the car? It is a fairly
long trip (10 hrs) and we didn't want to take them originally, but we don't
seem to have much of a choice.
<<Well, assuming they are in heated, filtered tanks now, you have a few
things to consider. Battery powered air pumps and heaters are one, as
temperature stability is a concern, as is oxygenation, even with atmospheric
respiration. The vessels they are transported in must be stable, and you
need to bring along proper housing (tank, heaters, filters, de-chlor) for
when you get to your destination, which includes an active bio-filter, such
as the sponge from the filter on their tank (transported in tank
water). Furthermore, their care while you are on spring break is an
issue.>>
Is this safe?
<<Perhaps, if you take the care required. I personally would opt for a
fish-sitter.>>
Thanks for your help!
Claire
<<Glad to help. Lisa.>>
Thanks so much for your response!
<<You are quite welcome.>>
We live in a college dorm so everyone is leaving, or we would leave our boys
and girl here.
<<Ah, understandable.>>
Thanks again for your help, it is much appreciated!
<<My pleasure. Good luck with your pets, and do let me know how it went and
how you went about it :). Lisa.>>
Cycling, on nitrite spike, going out of town 6/18/06
Greetings WWM folks!
<Cris>
I've got a 10g planted tank (w/ Eco-Complete) that is on the nitrite spike part
of the cycle, NH4 not all the way down yet. I will be away
for 10 days and have a friend who will stop by to feed the three Corys (C.
habrosus) every couple of days. I'm trying to figure whether to
assume that the cycle will complete soon, or to put in some zeolite and risk it
stalling/clobbering the cycle, or to ask my friend to
check the Ammonia Alert and put in the zeolite if there's a spike.
<I would just be very, very light on feeding... like "one flake" per, per day>
The third seems like the best plan to me - any thoughts?
Thanks for all the good information,
Cris
<Just good guessing here, but this is what I'd do. These Corydoras won't starve,
but might easily be poisoned by over-feeding boosting nitrite concentration (I
would not have placed them in an uncycled system). Bob Fenner>
Aquariums During A Vacation - 02/25/06
Dear Wet Web Media, You have a great website, which I have been using
constantly with my new aquariums. I have a couple of questions I would like to
ask. I will start with my 27 gallon aquarium. I have a Emperor 280 Biowheel
filter, a 100 watt heater keeping a temp. of 78 degrees, and fake plants. Our
fish include: 2 Angel fish,1 Powder Blue Gourami,1 Dwarf Gourami (It is just a
orange-red color with white and orange-red fins. The LFS said it was a Neon Red
Gourami, but while researching I have questioned that it isn't a Sunset
Gourami), 2 Guppies, 2 Yoyo loaches, 1 Bumblebee Goby (I know it is supposed to
be brackish water. I was told at the local fish store that they could be either
freshwater or Brackish. I already have the fish, so I am just keeping my
husband from buying more -He loves them). We just got done medicating our tank
for Ich (Aquarisol), about 3-4 weeks ago, and it appears we lost whatever
beneficial bacteria we had. The tank has been cycling ever since we finished
the medicine. We have been doing a lot of 30-40% water changes (with 1 tsp of
aquarium salt per 10 gallons of water) at first to keep the ammonia levels down
and now to keep the nitrite levels down. Currently, our levels are Nitrates
approx. 30 ppm. Nitrites less than 1.0 ppm. GH 300 ppm. Alkalinity 180 ppm.
pH 7.8. Ammonia 0 ppm.
Our tap water is very hard, has a rather high pH and has some
Nitrates. Sometimes we use some R.O. water along with the tap water when we do
a water change. We are stationed here with the military and have never lived
anywhere with water this hard, so we are trying to cope (The water is horrible,
you fill a glass of water and the sediment in the water settles to the
bottom). My husband has been putting a lot of pH down in the water trying to
get the pH to more normal levels, but I am worried about the fish and all of the
chemical change to the water. (The water levels I gave you are since I changed
the water with just tap water and no pH down). We have started accumulating
Brown Algae in the tank. From my research on your website, I gather it is brown
and not green because of the nitrites still in the water. As my nitrite levels
get to zero for a while, will the algae become Green Algae?
< It may turn green or stay brown. Either way it is an unwanted plant growth
that detracts from the tank.>
Also I am going on vacation in 2 1/2 weeks (going to South Louisiana for a
wedding, and I was worried about feeding the tank. I do not want to use the
vacation feeding cubes. I used them in a 1 gallon with a Betta in college, and
my water was gross when I returned. My husband wants to buy an automatic feeder
you hang from the side of the tank. My concern is the Bumblebee Goby. I feed
once a day. I give 1/4 cube of frozen Brine Shrimp (are vitamin fortified
according to the packaging) and a few flakes. All the fish in my tank love the
Brine Shrimp, so I give enough so that a few will trickle down to the Goby at
the bottom. If I don't, my white Angel fish and the Loach will eat it all, and
the Goby doesn't get food. We will be leaving on a Thursday and returning on a
Tuesday. Do you have any suggestions? The Goby ate flakes when I first bought
him, but recently seems to spit them back out of his mouth.
< Use a combination of floating and sinking pellets in the automatic feeder. The
goby will eat if he gets hungry enough.>
Lastly, I am waiting on my nitrite levels to reach 0ppm and nitrates to be 20ppm
or less for 2 weeks before I buy anymore fish, but I would like to ask about
what else I can put in this tank. My husband wants a Pleco, and there was
another small algae eater at the LFS (I don't know what it is called. It is
about 1 inch long, white, skinny, and looks a little like a
Catfish.). Supposedly, they are very good at cleaning plants of algae. I would
like a small school of Tetras, but I am not sure this is wise with the Angels. I
was going to buy one of the larger varieties (Lemon Tetras). Do you think they
would become dinner for the Angels? My daughter already lost a couple of baby
Mickey Mouse Platys to my white Angel. If Tetras would be okay, how many should
I get as a minimum. My husband would like a couple of Mollies as well. I am
worried about overloading the tank. What do you suggest with this combination
of fish?
< The angelfish will pick on slow and small fish. The lemon tetras would do OK
but they like to be in schools and your tank is already starting to get pretty
crowded and already has high nitrate levels. The albino Chinese algae eater
really doesn't do that good a job eating algae. Some Plecos get pretty big and
don't even eat algae. Go to planetcatfish.com and check out the Plecos available
in your area.>
My other tank is a 10 gallon with 2 Mickey Mouse Platys and a Guppy (He does not
get along with the Guppies in my other tank. For some reason he likes the
Platys, so I have left him in this tank). This tank has been set up for a month
and also has a Biowheel. I had to swap to fluorescent lighting, because the
incandescent heated the water by 2 or 3 degrees during the day, while the lights
were running. It is also kept at 78 degrees. The levels are nitrates 20 ppm,
nitrites less than .5 ppm, GH 300 ppm, Alkalinity 180 ppm, pH 7.8
and ammonia 0 ppm. I have a lot of the Brown Algae in this aquarium as
well. When we leave for vacation should I buy a powered feeder for this tank or
just feed it well before we leave?
< If I go on vacation for a week or less then I don't worry about feeding the
fish while I am gone. If I am really concerned about a tank I will put a glob of
black worms in the tank. They will live there in the sand until they are eaten.>
Also, I would like some advice on how much to put in this tank also. I don't
plan on putting anything else in either tank until we come back from vacation
and our levels are normal. I don't want anything to happen with ammonia levels,
etc. while we are gone. It is my daughter's tank and she wants a Betta, a
snail, and Tetras (probably Neons). We also thought about getting her one of
those small algae eaters at the LFS to clean her ornamental plants. I don't
want any problems with overloading. I try to stick to the 1 inch per gallon
rule, but I would still like a second and more experienced opinion.
Thanks for all your help, Leslie
< The trouble with bettas is that other fish like to nip at their fins and would
eat and kill smaller neons. The key to stocking a tank is compatibility and
nitrate levels. Make sure all the fish are pretty close to the same size and
have similar water requirements. If the nitrates exceed 25 ppm per week then you
need to reduce them with water changes. If you placed a 100 fish in this tank
you would probably have to change 100% of the water every day to keep the
nitrates levels down. If you had 10 fish in there then you might get by with a
25% water change every two weeks. It all depends on how much time you have
available and how much work you can put in to it.-Chuck>
Oh no! Maybe it wasn't dead!! Ropefish, the lack of utility of "vacation
feeding blocks" 6/29/05
Hello, I'm writing on behalf of my husband. He's really the aquatic
enthusiast. I've spent the last hour or so reviewing your site and
reading over the BichirFAQ's. Before I get to my dilemma, I want to
commend you on a spectacular and informative site.
<Welcome>
Also, I am glad to
see someone demand better grammar in their postings. This is the first
time I've ever taken the time to post on any site as I am usually quickly
turned off by the sheer volume of grammatical errors.
<Me too... err, I as well!>
My husband and I were on vacation about two weeks ago and had my mother
in law come to feed our pets. Because his mother would not be able to
feed the fish for the first weekend we were away, we purchased a 7 day
feeder for the fish.
<Mmm, most of these are bunk nutritionally... as well as caustic to water
quality>
He has a Bala shark, two bottom feeders, and two
other semi-aggressive fish, but I'm not sure what they are. Until we
went on vacation, he also had a rope fish approximately 12 inches in
length. This was by far my favorite fish. A few days into our vacation,
his mother called and said that the fish appeared dead. She said it was
floating on the top with its head down and the fins were not moving.
<Perhaps just "natural behavior">
After reading the information on the site, I am astonished at what hardy
fish they are! I am afraid that my husband's rope fish was not in fact
dead, but simply ill. Is there anything you can tell me that would
indicate if this was the behavior of a sick rope fish?
<That it did not move at all... would not respond to the top being lifted, being
prodded... That (ultimately) white, reddish marks occurred on its body>
Tragically, she
removed the fish from the tank and disposed of it, so it's too late now
to save it, but we are trying to replace it and wouldn't want to have a
repeat performance. I was hoping you could tell me the likelihood that
the feeder was the culprit.
<It was at least a contributor, I agree>
The feeder made the water very cloudy. We
changed the filters right away and this seemed to remedy that problem.
We usually fed it frozen bloodworms and pellets. Is it possible it
didn't like the new food and starved?
<To some extent, yes>
The other fish all seem unscathed.
<They likely just went w/o food as well...>
My husband is very upset because he has only lost one fish in over two
years. He also changes the water and vacuums about once a month.
Thank you for your help.
Danielle
<A lesson learned re "feeding blocks"... I will post your input... know that you
have saved many other organisms through your writing. Thank you, Bob Fenner>
Cleaning Bio Media/Vacation Feeding
Hi. I have some questions about cleaning the biological filter material. Am I supposed to wash the biomedia every once in a while? When should I replace the old media with new one?
I have two firemouths (1.5 inch) and a gibbiceps (2 inches). I am about to leave for 5 days and I can't get anybody to take care of my fish. I don't know how to get my fish fed during my absence.
If I use a feeder, much of the food would sink to the bottom, as the firemouths can consume only 1 pellet at a time. Moreover I would not be able to set the feeder up, so that a proper dose is distributed each time. It always happens that the pleco's pellets drop all at the beginning (and polluting the water) or clog the feeder's exit, leaving no food to pass through. In every way feeders have many serious drawbacks, according to my experience. Should I use those food tablets that last for a week and dissolve slowly in the water, or would it pollute the water a lot? Is it too much to leave the fish without any food at all?
<You should never clean or replace the bio media. If this is a sponge that gets clogged, swish it around in some old tank water after a change. Never rinse under the tap. The chlorine will kill the bacteria. To replace or clean it would require you to recycle the tank. For a five day trip I would just feed them well for a day or two before hand and not worry about it. They will be hungry, but alive and healthy, when you get home. Don>
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