
|
|
FAQs on Neotropical Cichlid Reproduction
Related Articles: Neotropical
Cichlids,
Central American Cichlids
by Neale Monks,
African Cichlids,
Dwarf South American Cichlids, Cichlid Fishes in
General,
Related FAQs: Cichlid
Reproduction,
Angelfish Reproduction,
Discus Reproduction,
Ram Reproduction,
Flowerhorn Reproduction,
Oscar Reproduction,
Severum Reproduction,
Neotropical Cichlids
1,
Neotropical Cichlids 2,
Neotropical Cichlids 3,
Neotropical Cichlid
Identification, Neotropical Cichlid
Behavior, Neotropical Cichlid
Compatibility, Neotropical Cichlid
Selection, Neotropical Cichlid
Systems, Neotropical Cichlid
Feeding, Neotropical Cichlid
Disease, Convicts,
Oscars,
Firemouths,
Texas Cichlids,
Severums,
Triangle Cichlids, Cichlids in General:
Cichlids of the World,
Cichlid Systems,
Cichlid Identification,
Cichlid Behavior,
Cichlid Compatibility, Cichlid Selection,
Cichlid Feeding,
Cichlid Disease,
|

|
Cichlid (cross, neo-trop.) Breeding and Puffer (indet. sp.
beh.) Questions. 9/2/09
My Convict and Green Terror Cichlid seem to have laid eggs. They are in
a tank with other cichlids and a few snails. The eggs are stuck onto a
rock and spread out in a single layer. I believe the eggs belong to them
because they are both very protective of the eggs when other fish
approach them but never to each other.
Just wondering if this was possible.
<Well, it's happened, so seems to be very possible! If you're asking me
will these eggs hatch into baby (hybrid) cichlids, then I don't know,
but imagine not. Some cichlids hybridise quite readily -- a bad thing,
generally -- but not all.>
On a semi unrelated note, I also have a puffer fish in a separate tank
with a few feeders who have survived the tank's cycling (put them in to
make sure the water and filters were fine, all of them survived except
the ones the puffer has destroyed.) Twice I've seen her get very stiff,
roll into a ball and suck in her pectoral fins so that they actually
seem to be inside her body.
<Odd.>
There were no reasons for her to go into shock (if that's what it is.)
The room was quiet and the water has not been changed. I've had her for
a few months and she's never been sick (although she was recently moved
to a new tank.)
When I saw her (caught her in the act) I dropped in a freeze dried
shrimp in an attempt to distract her. It took her a second to loosen up,
but she went right for it.
<Good.>
Her colors are bright, and I was planning on transitioning slowly to
brackish this week (She's about an inch and a half long, and I want the
transition to be as slow as possible to prevent any kind of shock or
sickness). What's going on?
<No idea. Puffers sometimes "practise" their puffing, and that can be
alarming. They also tend towards becoming lethargic if overfed, sitting
on the bottom looking dazed. But if neither of these things are
possible, then I'd do the usual things and check water chemistry and
water quality. Once you move a Green Spotted Puffer or Figure-8 Puffer
to brackish water it should settle down and behave normally. Under
freshwater conditions their health is variable, and you may simply be
witnessing some type of abnormal behaviour caused by improper
maintenance. Cheers, Neale.>
re: Cichlid Breeding and Puffer Questions.
9/2/09
Some of the eggs are turning white. Don't know if it's a good thing or
not, but I'm moving them to a different tank soon.
<Bad; usually means they're not fertilised and have started to rot.>
The Green Terror has started leaving them alone a little, but still
chases the others away if the Convict leaves, which doesn't happen
often, and when it does its only for a few seconds to grab some food and
return.
<Normal.>
I'm not too worried about it, The fact that they're trying to breed at
all is probably good.
<Well, sort of. Breeding cichlids are more aggressive, which may be a
bad thing.>
However the eggs are stuck to a rock. A friend of mine said African
cichlid bury their eggs.
<No cichlid buries its eggs. Some incubate them in their mouths, but
most lay them on something, whether a plant leaf, pebble, cave roof, or
depression on the substrate. But in all cases, the eggs are kept in
contact
with the water so they can be properly oxygenated.>
Mine are South American, does the standard not uphold?
<Probably not. Don't really understand what your friend was telling
you.>
The puffer seems fine, She hasn't done anything strange. I'll be
changing her to brackish very soon.
<Good.>
Thank you for your expertise!
<Cheers, Neale.>
cichlid eggs. 9/28/08
Hello, I found out this morning that my t-bar cichlids have bred so i
separated the eggs, male and female away from the other fish. I was wondering is
it normal for the male and female to fight every now and then if the male gets
to close to the pipe were there eggs are <Yes, sometimes pairs of cichlids
will fight, even where that species is known to be a biparental spawner. To some
degree depends on the environment; do see Paul Loiselle re: the importance of
target fish in maintaining strong pair bonds.> and how long will it take
before i can sell them to a fish shop? <Assuming the fry are moved to a big,
clean tank where they can grow quickly (i.e., nitrate levels are low) then you
can expect virtually all cichlids to reach sellable size in 3-4 months. It is of
course virtually impossible to rear them adequately in the tank with the
parents. Normally people remove the parents to the community tank.> Thanks
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: cichlid eggs. – 09/28/08
Thanks for your great email.
<No problem.>
Where could i find the re: the importance of target fish in maintaining strong
pair bonds?
<Almost any Paul Loiselle book will discuss the topic in depth, and make
suggestions on species suitable for this function. I recommend "The Cichlid
Aquarium" published by Tetra. The idea is to choose a fish that elicits "fear"
in the parents that their eggs might be eaten if they don't protect them, but
the species you choose as a target fish aren't actually a threat at all. Large
herbivorous characins such as Silver Dollars work well, assuming you have
sufficient space for them. Red-tail sharks and Chinese Algae Eaters
(Gyrinocheilus spp.) can also work. Obviously anything that actually will eat
eggs, particularly at night, like catfish and loaches, won't work. Target fish
will be killed if the tank isn't big enough for them to manoeuvre safely, so
stock wisely.>
When should i remove the male and female?
<It's normal to remove the parents around two weeks of the fry becoming free
swimming, though this depends on the species. Some degree of experimentation is
recommended.>
What is the minimum tank size for me to move the fry to when there are free
swimming?
<Depends on the fish being reared. Dwarf cichlids can be reared for several
months in 10-20 gallon aquaria without complaint. Larger species will require
30-50 gallon systems, depending on the species. There are variations in
aggression, in particular with young males monopolising food, slowing down the
growth of the females. So use your common sense, and buy the biggest tank in
your budget, and keep on top of water changes as well to minimise nitrate
concentration.>
Thanks again
<Do try and track down "Enjoying Cichlids" by Fohrman et al.; I believe you'll
find this a very useful reference. The cichlid literature is vast, and with this
group of fish the problems that arise from inexperience are legion. You'll also
enjoy these intelligent fish so much more if you understand why they're doing
all these seemingly "bad" things. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: cichlid eggs. 9/29/08
Thanks for your great email.
is it ok if there is no male in with the eggs? Because after the male had
fertilized them she was bullying him really badly and had him in the corner so i
had to put him in my main tank and every time he tries to swim through the glass
to the eggs she is at the glass trying to kill him! So will she be ok keeping
care of the eggs and fry by her self?
Thanks
<It's absolutely fine to leave one parent in control of the eggs, and indeed
many aquarists do that or remove the eggs after spawning and rear the eggs
artificially. Having said that, many (perhaps most) cichlids take a few "tries"
before they get all their behaviours right. So do consider leaving them together
to try and rear the broods, if you're comfortable that neither parent is in
danger. Once a pair has properly formed, they'll be breeding every couple of
months and you will have more fry than you know what to do with! So sit back,
grab a cichlid book, and enjoy watching their behaviour develop. That's the
whole point of keeping cichlids! In theory at least, target fish will help the
pair bond, if they are not doing so already. Cheers, Neale.>
Guianacara geayi, sexing
-08/27/08
Hello
<Ave,>
I have 2 Bandit Cichlids (Guianacara geayi) and they are around 1 inch big.
<Still babies.>
How long does it take for them to grow to a size they can be sexed?
<I'd expect these to become sexually mature at 4-6 months, the males before the
females. They'd need to be about half-adult size, in other words at least 3-4
inches in length. Maximum size for this species is about 15 cm/6" for males,
slightly less for females. Sexing is otherwise difficult. Quite a challenging
species, be careful not to keep them too warm! 22-25 degrees C is ample,
anything above that likely to stress them.>
Thanks
<Many aquarium books list this species as Acaricthys geayi or Aequidens geayi;
use these names when doing your research. It is of course a harem spawner, so
you will need multiple females if you want to avoid problems with male
aggression. Cheers, Neale.>
T-bar cichlid problem
Spawning T-Bar Cichlids 8/13/08
Hello, I have bred T-bar's
< Archocentrus sajica>
many times but when I take the fry away the male and female die. The last
time they bred and I did this the female was fine but the male wont eat. He
still got his breeding colours, has his fins down and it has been like this
for 2 months. What could I do to prevent this from happening again and how
can I make my male healthy again? Thank you for your time.
< Spawning takes a lot of energy. I suspect that the pair were not properly
conditioned prior to spawning. After spawning they are weak an vulnerable to
diseases. Separate the pair and heat them up to 82 F. Feed them lots of live
or frozen food to build up their fat reserves. Keep the water clean with
lots of water changes and clean the filter often. When they are very active
and looking good you can reintroduce them together. If the female is not
ready top spawn then the male may kill her so be ready to spit them up if
things aren't going well. If they spawn then continue to feed them well with
quality food. When the fry become free swimming then I would separate them
from the parents. Clamped fins could be a sign of a bacterial infection. I
would recommend treating him in a hospital tank with Nitrofuranace.-Chuck>
Cross Breeding
Jack Dempsey Breeds With Severum 7/3/08
Hi, I have a question about cross breeding. First off we started out
with a small catfish and a Gourami, Then we added a full grown Severum
and a Jack Dempsey that were bought from the same tank. Since the day we
brought them home they have been paired up, anyway my Severum has laid
her first batch of eggs (that I know of) and my Jack Dempsey is, I think
, fertilizing them. So my question is will the eggs survive being cross
bred? They seem to be protecting them very well, should I take out the
eggs? If so how would I go about doing that? Thank you very much for
your time. Kim
< In the wild these two fish never see each other. The Severum is from
South America and the Jack Dempsey is from Central America. There are
many weird cichlid crosses out there but I have never heard of this one
before. The eggs should hatch in three days if the are viable. In three
more days the fry should be free swimming. The eggs can be removed at
any time. Fill an aquarium with the same water from the main tank that
the pair have spawned in. Place the eggs with object the eggs were laid
on in the tank and maintain the same water temp and provide strong
aeration too. Dead eggs will turn whits and begin to develop a
fungus.-Chuck>
Re: Cross Breeding
Jack Dempsey Breeds With Severum II 07/07/08
Thanks for getting back to me, I can use any tips I can get. Forgive me if
this is a stupid question but what do you mean by "turn whits"? Do you mean turn
white?
< Sorry. Typo on my part. My wireless keyboard has batteries that needed
changing. Dead cichlid eggs that are unfertilized start to turn white after 24
hours or so.>
Some of them are white but I was told that was the fertilized ones. Is that
true?
< Fertilized eggs are usually a brownish color. This is probably an evolutionary
adaptation so predators will not see the eggs and eat them. Sorry for the
typos.-Chuck>
Thanks again Kim
|
Breeding Green Terrors
Hey Chuck, I got a pair of Green Terrors which I'm pretty sure were
compatible and ready to breed.
So I got a large bucket to separate them both from the other fishes in my tank,
supplied a sponge filter, air bubbles, heater and everything necessary for them
to survive and setup an environment that they can adapt to while laying eggs.
Couple of days went by and I thought I notice some eggs, about 100eggs, very
small and brown in color. It was laid in a barrel I put in there for them so it
was a bit hard to see but was still noticeable. Three days later it was still
there and some turned white which I thought was normal still because unfertile
eggs will turn white. Day after I went to check again and they were nowhere to
be seen. I've looked everywhere and cant seem to find them at all. I don't see
anything swimming around nor any eggs, but the 2 still remain in the barrel.
Could there be a chance that they could of eaten them all?
How long does it take to hatch? Is it the usual 3 days? What should I do?
<The eggs should of hatched after three days at 80 F. The fry could have been
moved to a safe place by their parents. After an additional three days the fry
become free swimming and start to swim around looking for food. If they are
still around then you will know it then.-Chuck>
Red Devil Fry Eat The Scales
off the Female Parent... 12/20/07
Hello Guys...
<Howdy>
My Red Devils recently had a successful batch of fry. The fry are now about 1
month old, and are growing at a good pace. I just recently separated the 2
parents, by putting the crate divider back in (he was getting overly
aggressive).
<Good technique>
The fry swim freely to either side. She had so many, I took alot
<No such word>
of the fry out and moved them to a separate tank (they are doing great). There
are still quite a few fry in the tank wit the parents..
<Good>
My question is: Is it normal for the fry to eat the scales off of the female
down to the "white meat" it appears to be getting infected.
<No... not normal, or healthy>
I know the parents produce a mucus for the fry to eat.. "should they still be
eating the mucus at the one month mark". Do I need to remove all the fry?
<I would, yes>
I feed the fry good also.. But they still are constantly peeking at the female
heavily. I don't want the Female to become sick.
I would appreciate any advice
thanks
KD
<Move the young... start looking for customers... stores that will buy, give you
good credit for them. Bob Fenner>
Sajica fry 11/12/07
hello,
my sajica's bred 3 months ago and the fry are only 1 cm long. is this normal
because they seem to be taking longer than any other cichlid fry to grow?
thanks
<Growth rate of baby fish depends on many factors. Check them all: Nitrates
inhibit growth, so water changes need to be frequent, 50% weekly, minimum.
Overcrowding causes stunting in many fish (again, water changes help here). Diet
needs to be varied, ideally a mix of animal and plant foods. For baby cichlids,
algae taken from a clean pond works extremely well. Meals must be frequent but
small: their energy demands are high, but their ability to process food in one
go is small. Four to six meals per day, but each one small, seems to work best
for the first couple of months. Segregating fry according to size is critical
after a couple of months; male cichlids grow faster than female cichlids and
will dominate the food supply. A simple tank divider works well here, letting
you keep small fish one side and larger ones on the other. Temperature and water
chemistry are additional factors. In the case of Sajica, a nice moderate
temperature around 25 C couple with moderately hard, neutral to slightly basic
chemistry is what you're after. Lovely fish you have there, by the way. Cheers,
Neale.>
thank you for your help
<You're welcome! Neale>
Cichlid Breeding For Rookies - 03/25/07
Hello Crew, I am thinking about trying to breed cichlids but I am having a
hard time finding one to breed. I have a spare 37 gallon tank that I would like
to use for housing them. I set it up with a lot of rock, and a few live plants
here and there, nothing special, if the fish eat them it's fine. I was going to
get a pair of Cryptoheros sajica but I cannot find them anywhere, except Jeff
Rapps but shipping is a killer! Is there any small, pretty, easy to keep/breed,
substrate/cave spawning (preferably not a mouthbrooder) cichlids you can give me
the name to, so I have something to build off of. I am really bummed because I
cannot find the sajica, they seem like the perfect fish. A few names is fine,
nothing elaborate. Thanks a lot!
< Lots to work with here until you find your sajica. You can start with
convicts, firemouths, rainbow cichlids, salvini, or jewelfish to get you
started. Get six small fish and let them grow up together. Males will be larger
with longer fins. Keep water clean around 82 F. Keep fish well fed and you
should have cichlids breeding in no time at all.-Chuck>
Re: Breeding Cichlids For Rookies 03/25/07
Thank you for your response, but I cannot keep 6 of the same fish in a 37
gallon can I? I hear Salvinis get around 7 inches.
Thanks
< You get six of whatever species you want to breed. When you get six fish you
have almost 100% chance of getting a pair. As the fish quickly grow they will
soon start to pair up. The male and female will start to flair and begin to lip
lock with each other. Soon they will clear an area and drive all the other fish
away. At this time you should remove all the other fish and trade them in at the
local fish store. In about a week you will have a pair with 1000 eggs covering a
rock. The eggs will hatch in three days and then the fry will become free
swimming in another three. Now they need to be fed baby brine shrimp. The babies
now need to be removed in about a week or they will be eaten by the parents.
Adult males will get up to seven inches but breeding females will only grow to
about half that size. Both can easily be housed in a 37 gallon tank.-Chuck>
Convict Cichlid Egg Color - 03/25/07
Hi again guys and thank you for the info before my convicts now have little
white eggs on a seashell in my tank. I was wondering if the eggs are supposed to
be this color
<Dead eggs turn white, live eggs are a translucent brown color.>
and I was wondering if after the fry is born will my male convict go back to
swimming with my Oscar fish? they did before.
< After spawning the male convict should be grading the fry. Once the fry are
gone the pair bond could be gone too and the male convict might not pair up
again.-Chuck>
Keeping Cichlid Eggs Viable 03/26/07
Thank You yet again but I have one more question. What can I do to keep the
eggs brown?
And I swear this is the last email for a while.
<When cichlid eggs are first laid they tend to be a translucent clear brown
color. If the eggs are not fertilized in 24 hours they will turn white and begin
to be taken over by a white water mold. This use to be commonly referred to as a
fungus but recent work at Sacramento State have shown this to be actually a
water mold. The adults should be able to stay with the eggs and remove and dead
or diseased ones. Clean warm water goes a long way to keep eggs healthy. The
addition of some methylene blue helps retard the water mold. If you continuously
get no eggs to hatch then you could have a male that is not fertilizing the
eggs.-Chuck>
Removing Cichlid Eggs - 02/22/07
Love the site BTW! I have a male convict and a female Texas cichlid that are
constantly breeding.
I was just wondering if it's inhumane or unethical to remove the eggs before
they hatch?? I've done this for the last few batches, as I don't want to
contaminate the hobby with half breed fish, but they always seem very upset and
distraught.
I kept their first spawn they're about 4 months old and are all different sizes
and colors. I know I won't be able to give them to a LFS and i certainly don't
have the space available to accommodate all the offspring so removing the eggs
is my only option.
BTW I do plan on separating the parents when i get a male Texas, Tanks for your
help guys! Michael
< By not promoting the cross you are helping the hobby. They get over having
their eggs removed in a few days. Try to match them up so you can keep the
fry.-Chuck>
Red devil breeding 2/6/07
I have a male and female red devil. Their eggs hatched about 1 1/2
weeks ago but she laid more about 3 days ago and now I can't find any of
their babies from the first batch, I think they killed them.
<Happens>
Why would they have so many babies, and why would they kill them?
<Mmm, survival value... many young lost in the wild... and an abundance of
young (as with our species) in propitious circumstances... And "stress",
adaptive behavior from being in small confines in captivity. Bob Fenner>
Bumps On FW Keyholes... Fish 1/21/07
Hello, and thanks for volunteering your time to help those of us with less
experience. I've searched the site and the web for hours and have been unable
to determine what's going on with my keyhole cichlids. Please bear with me, I
would rather give you too much information than not enough.
I have a 20 gal tank, with two keyhole cichlids, one bronze Cory, three marble
hatchets, and two neon tetras. I feed them flakes, Ocean Bay frozen bloodworms,
emerald entree and "cichlid delight", algae wafers, and put a few ghost shrimp
in there for the keyholes to chase and eat every now and then. My tank is well
established, with ammonia/nitrites zero, and nitrates hovering around 10. I do
a 20% water change every five to seven days with a gravel vac. I thought I was
keeping my tank water very clean. :( About a week ago, I noticed my Cory
catfish had a small ball of what looked like fungus on the tip of his left fin.
At the same time, I noticed my keyhole cichlids had some kind of tiny growths
(?) on their tail fins only, about the size of a grain of sand. One keyhole had
around three to five, and the other had more, around ten to fifteen. They also
were acting skittish, were not coming to the top of the tank to eat, and
spending a lot of time on the bottom of the tank hiding in the plants. My first
thought was ich (with the Cory's fungus being secondary), even though the grains
on the cichlids look nothing like salt. They look more like uniform grains of
tan sand, or small round sesame seeds. That size and color. Not bright white
crystals like the fish with ich I've seen in the local fish store (yuk) or in
pictures on the web. Over the next few days (had a short trip out of town) I
did two good sized water changes, the second being a 50% water change and
thorough gravel vac. I did notice my gravel vac stirred up a lot of detritus
around and behind my plants, which doesn't get vacced as well, and which is a
popular hangout for the cichlids and the Cory. With the second water change I
added a teaspoon of kosher salt per gallon slowly, and the following day added
another ten teaspoons, to a total of a teaspoon and a half per gallon (I was
leery of adding more salt because of the Cory, and I did not raise the temp in
the tank because in the colder weather, my heater works full time to keep a
steady 78*.). The keyholes immediately seemed to perk up, became more active
and regained their appetite. But now, five days later, the tiny bumps are
unchanged, as is the cottony ball on the tip of the Cory's fins. There are just
as many bumps, no more, no less, and they are in the same places. They aren't
white like salt - they appear to be the same color as the fin, but opaque, and
attached to the surface of the fin. My larger keyhole has also developed a
small, slightly raised, white fuzzy patch on his tail fin that appears to be
fungus. When I realized the fungus had spread to the keyhole I added two Jungle
Fungus Clear Tank Buddies tablets. I don't know if I should have done that, but
I felt like I needed to treat the fungus before it spread any further. I'm at a
loss as to treating the fin bumps, since I have no idea what they could be. I
would greatly appreciate it if one of you could help me and my fish out with
your advice! Thanks so much for your patience.
The hatchets and Neons seem completely normal.
This is probably completely unrelated but I did recently add some fertilizers to
give my java fern and moss a boost - a tablet for the fern, and dosed the water
with Flourish.
Jessica
< Sounds like you may have fish lice. Do a 50% water change, vacuum the gravel
and clean the filter. Treat with either Fluke-Tabs or Clout and follow the
directions on the package. The fungus may be a secondary infection from the lice
attacking the fish. Place infected fish in a quarantine tank and treat with
Nitrofurazone.-Chuck>
Angel and Discus Cross 12/24/06
Can angelfish and discus crossbreed? If so, are there any special conditions
needed for crossbreeding them?
< The strangest cross I have seen is with an angelfish and a convict cichlid.
Anything is possible with cichlids but no cross of this type has ever been
documented.-Chuck>
Oscar Crossed With A Jack Dempsey 12/18/06
Hi, This is probably gonna sound nuts, but here goes. I have roughly a 9
inch Oscar in a 55 gallon tank, and 3 weeks ago introduced a 6 inch Jack
Dempsey. They hit it off the very first night and seem to be fast friends.
However, now they are starting to act as tho they want to mate. The Oscar has
dug a huge pit in one side of the tank,<and yes. I know they love to dig and
this is normal>, but the Jack is right there with him, rubbing against the
Oscar.. quivering.. etc. The Oscar seems to try to keep the Jacks interest. I
don't know if I should stop this.. some have told me that they WILL breed.. but
may have infertile eggs.. or may actually produce live eggs. What is your
opinion on this? Thanks for a great site!
Styler
< When fish are properly conditioned they want to reproduce. When a suitable
partner is not available they tend to lower their standards and reproduce with
whatever will reproduce with them. Cichlids are very easy to cross. I have never
heard of this particular cross but I suppose it is possible. Oscars originally
come from South America while Jack Dempsey's come from Mexico. We will just have
to wait and see if the eggs are fertile.-Chuck>
Breeding Keyhole Cichlids - 12/06/06
Hello, I'm a novice and have learned a lot from your answers - thanks for
this valuable resource! I have never had egg layers breed in my tank(s) and
currently have a pair of beautiful keyholes who have been flirting for a while
and were, I'm pretty sure, spawning two nights ago. They dug a "cave" between a
tank ornament and a large ball of java moss and spent the whole night circling
back and forth through their nest, shaking at each other, their coloration
became vivid and pronounced, and the female's ovipositor was extruding. The
next morning I expected to see eggs somewhere in the "nest" they had made, but
since I didn't see anything that looked like an egg I assumed they had either
not succeeded, or got nervous and ate the eggs (since I'm afraid I had a hard
time leaving them alone, I was so excited). However, now one of the keyholes
has taken up residence in the "cave", while the other lurks just outside,
checking in on occasion. Is it possible there are still some eggs I'm not aware
of? Would the keyholes still be paying so much attention to the site if there
were no eggs? I have been looking all over the net for some detailed spawning
info specific to keyholes, as I don't have a clue what to expect (what the eggs
look like, how many, how long before hatching, etc). I really love these sweet
and graceful fish and would enjoy seeing them raise their young. Jessica
<How can I refuse to answer a question from someone with the same last name as
me? The keyholes are peaceful medium sized cichlids from South America. They are
substrate spawners and usually lay their eggs on horizontal flat surfaces. From
the way they are acting I think they spawned on the roof of the cave. The eggs
will hatch in three days and the fry will absorb the egg sack in another three
days. When the egg sack is absorbed the fry will need to be fed baby brine
shrimp, micro worms and finely crushed flake food. They fish are very shy and
are well known to eat their eggs.-Chuck>
Neotrop. cichlid crosses, sales of young 11/27/06
I have a Parrot fish and a Jack Dempsey that have successfully bred. The fry
are now fish (2 in" long). Have you ever heard of the pair breeding.
<Mmm... don't think so>
I can't find anything on the internet. What could they be sold for?
<Mmm... whatever the market will bear... Best to raise some up to an inch or
more... take about local shops and offer in bags of ten, twelve... For credit if
you can use this (will likely get appreciably more)>
they are the only two fish in the tank and me and my wife watched them spawn.
They are ready to spawn again, so what do we do?
<Will likely spawn again... once the young are separated... every two-three
weeks or so... Do keep an eye on the adults, as "things can go sideways" in
their relations in a short while. Bob Fenner>
Jack Dempsey And Green Terror Mating - 10/18/06
Hi there, I have a 75 gallon tank with 1 green terror and 3 Jack Dempseys.
My green terror and a Jack Dempsey that were locking lips. The green Terror just
laid lots of eggs, have you heard of these fish breeding? Thanks TB
< These two fish never come in contact with each other in nature. It is possible
for them to mate but only time will tell if the eggs are any good.-Chuck>
Green Severum has laid eggs 9/21/06
Hello,
<Hi there>
In one of my tanks, (55 gal.) I have 2-4" Green Severums, 1-3" Bala
Shark, 1-5" Silver Dollar "Ike"-my favorite fish, 1-3" Pictus Catfish, 1-4"
Electric Blue Cichlid (Yes, I know he shouldn't be here but he gets along
better with the fish in this tank than in my African Cichlid tank),
<Ah, yes. Many tank-bred Aulonocaras are quite mild>
1-6" Common Pleco, 1-2" Moonlight Gourami, 1-1" Gold Gourami, 1-1"
Opaline Gourami. (My Son wanted Gourami's, and I plan to transfer these fish
to a different tank eventually.) With some mild aggression at times, the
fish are getting along just fine. No Fish is over-harassing any other fish
too much.
The 2 Severums were purchased from different fish stores. They look
alike except for coloration. 1 was sold as a "Turquoise" Severum and the
other as a "Green" Severum.
<Mmm, same species...>
My wife insisted at first that they were different fish. I told her
that they are the same species, and so are Gold Severums. Am I correct?
<Yes>
Anyway, our 7 year-old daughter spotted eggs laying on some of the
rocks at the bottom. We immediately could see that they were fish eggs. The
eggs are light brown in color. I removed the rocks with the eggs from the
tank and placed them in a breeding net. From all the reading I can tell with
some certainty that this wasn't the right thing to do. Will these eggs
hatch? How will the fry do afterwards?
Thanks for your help,
Del
<Mmm, might hatch... better left with the parents though... the fry,
raised in either way will have to be fed once free-swimming... Please read
here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/severumreprofaq.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Breeding Convict cichlids 9/15/06
Hey, I have two convicts in a 29 gal tank with neon tetras,
swordtails and a painted glassfish. Well. I asking if you could help me
with helping them to
breed. All the male does is chase the female around until she
hides. Well if you can help me thanks
< Do a 50% water change and clean the filter. Make sure the water
temp is up around 80 F. Feed them lots of live foods. Females usually have
yellow on the body so make sure you have a pair.-Chuck>
Re: Breeding Convicts II 9/16/06
Thanks Chuck. I been doing all of the things that you have
suggested, but all the male does is chase her and he seems to want
to kill her. So can help me with more info pls. Thanks
<The male has set up a territory within your aquarium. He will only
allow a female that is ready to spawn into this territory. Usually
when spawning these fish I recommend getting at least six. You have
a very good chance of getting a pair but more important is that they
are more compatible then if you were to force a pair together. lower
the water temp to the mid 70's. This should take them out of the
breeding mode and make the male less aggressive. If he is still
after her then remove one of them from the tank. Feed them with live
food and keep the water very clean for at least two weeks. Then
reintroduce them and then raise the water temp slowly back up to 80
F. After two weeks the female should have developed some eggs and be
more likely to spawn. Just because they have spawned does not make
them a very compatible pair. The male may eat the spawn and be after
the female to spawn again in just a couple of days so watch them
closely.-Chuck>
Red Terror Cichlid repro., beh. 8/11/06
Hi,
I have a festae Cichlid, around 6-8 inches long, in a 120 gallon long
tank. My question is; is there any way to tell if it is a male or female?
<Mmm, maybe... like classic neotropical cichlids of all sorts, the unpaired
fins on the males ar a bit longer, more pointed/attenuated at the tips...
Hard to tell w/o a female/comparison though>
It is living (relatively peacefully with 2 juvenile cichlids, a Green
Terror, and a Salvini, and 2 baby cichlids, a Firemouth, and a Convict, and
has not really been overall aggressive (any more an any other average
American cichlid) to any of the other fish. The fish is colorful, but not
overly so, and constantly "digs" pots, as though getting ready to spawn, but
has no mate, nor any other unrelated cichlid in the tank of breeding
age/size. In light of the relatively peaceful temperament, and the digging,
do you think I have a male or a female, also, can this arrangement work
long-term? What about if I add an Oscar? Thanks in advance,
<Good question... Not able to say though... could be either from the
behavior, looks described. It isn't impossible to "mate" with other
cichlids... Bob Fenner>
Firemouth cichlids, sexing 8/4/06
We have two firemouth cichlids and are finding it impossible to sex them.
<Mmm, not an easy cichlid to do so, particularly when small, of not-great
genetic make-up, development>
The smaller, darker one often does a vertical dance to attract the other
which makes me think it might be male, while I've never seen the
other one do anything but chase the smaller, and beaten up one, around. My
brother tells me that one laid eggs at one point on the side of an aquarium
decoration, but nothing hatched.
<Might be two females...>
Do only males do this little dance? Aside from unreliable things like color
and fins, is there a better way to determine the sex of these cichlid?
<Mmm, the unpaired finnage, color, size, behavior, anal vent appearance...
is about it>
Any help would be appreciated. We've exhausted our internet searches trying
to find an answer. If we have two of the same, we'd like to get
the opposite to try and breed these beautiful fish.
Wendy
<Have you read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/firemouths.htm
and the linked files above? Bob Fenner>
Re: Laetacara Curviceps - split tail fin. Repro. 8/3/06
Hi Crew/Bob
<Tim>
Unfortunately, the male did not make it. However, I bought a replacement
male, and before you know it, the newlyweds have taken over a piece of rock,
gone really dark and now chasing everyone else away!
<Wow! "Out with the old, in with the new!"... Unusual to have new matchings
occur so quickly, easily>
So, my question has now changed to a completely different topic! Since this
is a community tank, I want to move the fry (if the spawning is successful)
to their very own fry tank. At what point would it be safe for the fry to
net out to the fry tank - at wriggler stage or free-swimming stage? Or do
you recommend a different method to achieve this separation?
Thanks
Tim
<Mmm, please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/neotropcichreprofaqs.htm
and the linked files above.
Bob Fenner>
Breeding Severums 7/6/06
Hello, I have 4 Severums in 55 gallon tank 3 golds and 1 green. It would
appear that the 2 larger Severums have spawned and now I have eggs. There
are 3 Catfish in this tank 1 Cory, 1 spotted Raphael and 1 Striped Raphael,
also in the tank is a Pleco. I figure I have to remove the cat fish and
pleco, but can I use a tank divider to separate momma Severum and eggs from
the rest?? If so should I leave the male with the female and eggs or
separate him to? Thanks for any info. Guy Clemency
< Leave the parents with the eggs. The pleco will be a problem but the
parents should be able to keep the others away. The eggs will hatch in three
days and the fry will become free swimming in three more. When they begin to
swim I would recommend that you use some airline tubing and siphon out the
babies and put them in a tank of their own. In another week the parents may
eat the eggs themselves and get ready to spawn again. When the fry are free
swimming they need to be fed baby brine shrimp and crushed flake
food.-Chuck>
Convict fry 6/11/06
Hi, First just want to say your website is so informative but I need to know
this one question PLEASE help. We have three black convicts 2 male 1 female. Two
have paired off and spawned quite a few times. Over Easter 2006 we removed quite
a few babies (approx 1.5 to 2 weeks old) and put into a smaller tank we did lose
quite a few as I think the new tank wasn't conditioned enough but we have
managed to keep approx 20 babies. My question is this "Out of the 20 approx 4
have their stripes already and the rest are still a whitish colour the majority
of all the babies are about 1cm long. Is the fact that some are stripy and the
rest not an indication of whether they are male or female?
< There is a white form of convict that has been going around for at least 40
years. I suspect that your convicts are genetically linked to these and some of
your fry are showing those white color characteristics. It has no bearing on
which ones are male and which ones are female.-Chuck>
We also have in the babies tank 2 different lots of baby bristle nosed cat fish.
The first lot transferred into the same tank a couple of days after the baby
convicts and the second batch were put in there on 7th June 2006. The same
parents of catfish bred both those batches. Anyway would just love an answer
about the convicts with/without stripes
Thanks for reading my email Tracie Sunshine Coast Australia
Raising Flowerhorn Fry 6/3/06
Hello! My female Flowerhorn laid eggs and my male Flowerhorn got to
fertilize it in time.
Now the eggs are hatched it's been a week since the eggs have been laid.
What are the factors that will aid the growth of my Flowerhorn fry? thanks
< Clean water, good food and reasonable temperatures. Ammonia will definitely
impede growth. So will nitrites and nitrates but not to the same extent. With
lots of fry it is easy to overcrowd a tank. You will need very good filtration
and lots of water changes. You will need a food that is high in protein. The
water temp should be at least 80 F for good fast growth. Too much higher than
that really starts to impede the waters ability to hold oxygen.-Chuck>
Breeding Convict Cichlids 6/3/06
WHASSUP WWM! I have to thank you guys and your site! your site is soooo
useful! Thanks for helping people out with their pets! Back to my question, I
have a twenty gallon that has two convict cichlids and two dojo loaches. I'm
trying to breed my two convicts. It says on the topic about convicts that the
male has longer fins and a little hump on the forehead. While the female has
orange on its belly and gets more color at breed season. Well I tried many
methods for these small creatures to breed, I tried raisin the temp to 82
degrees, and keeping the tank crystal clean, and it said on one site to feed the
convicts four times a day. Not much but only a few pellets or sticks or
whatever food that the owner feeds the fish. And it also said to fit in some
blood worms or shrimp. I tried it and nothing happened, the convicts just became
more fatter when they eat. I got them one week ago. Do you think it's just
because they're just getting used to their new surroundings? Or do I just wait a
few days longer? I hope you can really help me one this problem! THANK YOU!
Xavier
<Give you cichlids at least a couple of weeks to spawn. If they are a pair then
you should see something by then. Ideally you should have gotten six fish. This
almost always guarantees you a compatible pair.-Chuck>
Breeding Red Devil Cichlids 6/3/06
Hi Bob, I have a large female red devil who lays eggs often. None of the
eggs have hatched yet. She had paired up with a Pacu at first. We replaced the
Pacu with a male red devil. She stopped laying and tried to kill the male. We
moved him out and it took about three months and she has started laying
again. This time she has paired up with a Jack Dempsey. They killed a smaller
Jack that was in the tank with them. We moved the male devil back in and are
wondering how to tell if the eggs are going to be viable or not. They started
out almost clear and some have turned opaque white???? How can we increase the
chance of actually having babies? Aurelia
<Ideally you would want to pick six small red devils and let them grow up
together. This almost always will give you a compatible pair. It is much more
difficult to pair up adult fish. The problem here is the female already has a
territory established and the male is an intruder. he has not been recognized
yet as a potential mate. Clear eggs are good and white eggs are dead or
unfertilized. Try placing both fish in the same tank with a divider in
between. As long as they can still see each other they can spawn and fertilize
a good portion of the eggs. You will probably have to make your own divider out
of plastic egg crate type of lighting panels.-Chuck>
Chemicals, Breeding Green Terrors, Fungus on RES's Neck - 05/29/06
Hi crew. I am happy to be back after a long break to my fish hobby.
Now I have many questions for you.
1)There is a lake near my house which was polluted by chemicals
nearly 8-10yrs back. Now I find a lot of daphnia and mosquito fish in
the lake. Can I feed this to my fish?
< Chemicals is a very broad term. Depending on the contamination levels and
the chemicals the threat could be gone by now. Other chemicals can last for
years in very low concentrations. These invertebrates could each contain a
very minute level of the chemicals. As you fish eats these invertebrates the
concentration of the chemicals may build up in the fish's body and cause
health problems for your fish. In general I do not use any water for my fish
that I would not drink myself. This way I know the water is safe.>
I also fear that there are hook worms (Argulus) present along with the
daphnia. Can I feed this to my fishes?
< Fish generally will not eat Argulus.>
Is there any way I can remove the Argulus?
Medications used to kill the Argulus will kill the daphnia too.>
2) My green terrors breed very often but the problem is that the male
is not helpful in guarding the spawn and the female keeps eating the fry.
How can I hatch the eggs away from the parents?
<Give the parents something to lay the eggs on that can be removed from the
tank. If they lay the eggs on the side of the glass then there is not too
much you can do. Get a 5 gallon tank and set it up with a heater and an
airstone. When the fish lay the eggs you can remove 5 gallons from the main
tank and put it in the 5 gallon tank. Place the rock with the eggs in
the 5 gallon tank and set the heater for 80 F. Place the airstone next to
the eggs to keep a current going. Add some methylene blue to the water to
prevent fungus. After three days the eggs should hatch and the fry will fall
to the bottom of the tank. Remove the rock. Three days later the fry should
be free swimming and will need to be fed baby brine shrimp, microworms and
finely crushed flake food.>
3)My RES turtle appears to be growing fungus around its neck and on its
shell. How can I treat this?
<Fungus generally feeds on dead tissue. I assume that the turtle is shedding
his skin and the fungus is simply attached to the skin that is sloughing
off. Do a big water change, try to rinse off the dead skin and add a Dr.
Turtle Sulfa Block by Zoo Med to inhibit the fungus growth.>
I will be very thankful if you help me out. thanking you in advance.
< Next time you need to rewrite your questions to include proper punctuation
or you questions will not be answered. These questions/replies are posted to
help other aquarists/hobbyists and we need to be very clear so not to
mislead others trying to save their animals.-Chuck>
Convicts Breeding, Aggression, Behaviour - 05/15/2006
Hi,
I'm a newbie and I found your site and love it! I've learned a lot about the
fish that my husband and I have but I haven't been able to find the answer or
advice I need for this particular situation.
<Then perhaps I can help.>
We bought a pair of black (zebra) convicts and a Jack Dempsey. We had all 3 fish
in a 55 gallon tank - they are all small, the female convict is about 3 inches
and the male convict is about 4 and a half inches. Jack Dempsey is bigger at
about 5 and a half inches. The convicts had babies and they kept them away from
the Jack. We noticed that the convict parents were getting very tired constantly
protecting their babies from Jack so we put Jack in a 30 gallon tank. Right
after we moved the Jack to the other tank, the male convict started being really
mean to the female and wouldn't let her near the babies. It was like he was
chasing her and fighting her. We took her out and put her in with the Jack for
about a week. We then tried to put her back into the tank with the male and the
babies and he tore after her.
<This behaviour is rally not uncommon.>
We decided to take the male convict out and put him in with the Jack and they
seem to be ok with each other. There's a lot of chasing but it seems to be like
they are playing.
<Trying to establish territories in too small a space; it could get ugly.>
So now we have the female convict and the babies in the 55 gallon tank and the
Jack and the male convict in the 30 gallon. The babies are about 4 weeks old now
and we will be giving most of them away in about 3 weeks. My questions: if we
decide to keep some of the babies, how many would be ok to keep in the 55 gallon
tank?
<They WILL grow up, and they WILL breed. I would not try for more than three
adult pairs, and that only if the tank is heavy with plants or decor for
establishing territories.>
Would it be ok to keep the mother in with the babies and have that tank be just
a convict tank? Or would it be ok to introduce some dither fish in too?
<I would wait until most of the young are of a saleable size, pick the "best" to
keep, sell, trade, or give the rest, add some dither fish - a friend of mine
swears by rainbow fish for dithers for many of his cichlids - and reintroduce
the male once the female's fully recovered. Chances are, the next spawn,
they'll be more amenable to chasing dither fish than each other.>
I'm thinking that the Jack and the male convict would be ok in the 30 gallon
tank.
<The jack Dempsey may outgrow it, and the two in the tank together may spell
trouble before long.>
And that the babies that we decide to keep (and the mother) would need the 55
gallon tank. Thank you so much for your answers/advice and for all the work you
all do in helping people like me - clueless but loving the fish! -Jackie
<Glad to be of service. Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
Breeding Convicts - 05/16/2006
Hey love your page, I look at it a lot. The reason I am writing you all is I
just got a pair of convict cichlids. When I 1st added them to the tank they
stuck close to each other, now its been 1 week and the larger of the 2 has
gotten darker. The larger one doesn't do anything but chase the smaller one
around. The smaller one tries to hide but The larger one looks for him/her. I
know that the smaller one is a female, Because she has the pinkish red coloring
on the stomach. But is it normal behavior for the larger one to get darker? Do
you think the larger one is trying to breed and the smaller one is not ready
yet? Also is it normal for him to search for the smaller one like that? I've
found that she hides close to the surface and when he comes near she tries to
back away so she isn't seen. thanks, David
< This is pretty normal for young convicts. The male is chasing the female and
trying to get her to breed. She is not ready and needs a hiding spot where she
can rest and build up some body fat. Try some live or frozen food to get things
going. Floating plants, either plastic or real will give some cover. Zoo Med now
has a floating aquarium log out that will allow picked on fish a place to hide
and recover. It works great.-Chuck>
Convicts Breeding? - 05/06/2006
Hi! I have 2 female convicts and I am seeing a lot of aggression towards
each other. The larger Convict is hovering near a rock formation and guarding
it ferociously. Could she be laying eggs? What will happen without a male to
fertilize them? Thanks! Sharon
< It has been documented that a female convict will lay eggs even if there is no
male available to fertilize them. Females usually have yellow-orange coloration
on the belly while males tend to be larger with longer fins. Unfertilized eggs
usually die after 24 hours, turn white and are soon fungused.-Chuck>
Black belt and Jack Dempsey - 4/24/2006
<<Tom>>
Can a black belt about 9 inches long and a Jack Dempsey about 7 inches long
breed together? They have been acting very lovey towards each other and I was
wondering.
<<This can/does happen, particularly with Cichlids from the same general region.
Interbreeding would be unlikely if there were a matched pair of one or the other
in the tank, however.>>
What should I do if eggs are produced?
<<Provided the eggs are viable and hatch, the parents will likely protect the
fry in the same fashion as matched-pair Cichlid parents will. If/when the fry
become free-swimming, they should be moved as the parents are likely to eat the
fry after a couple of weeks. In the meantime, the fry can be fed Baby Brine
Shrimp and crushed/powdered flake foods. (They'll also pick up on small morsels
left behind by "Mom" and "Dad".)>>
Thank you sooo much in advance,
Emily
<<You're welcome, Emily. Tom>>
Re: Black belt and Jack Dempsey 4/25/06
<<Tom>>
Thank you very much for the information. I have a couple of follow up questions
if you do not mind. Is there any way to tell the difference between male and
females? I'm trying to figure out which is which.
<<Is one sitting in front of the TV with a beer? Seriously, the dorsal and anal
fins are long and pointed on male Jack Dempseys where these are shorter and
rounded on the females. There are, also, distinct differences in coloration and
markings but we don't have two of the same to compare these against. Regarding
your Black Belt Cichlid, the easiest way would be to look for a pointed genital
papilla indicating a male.>>
Also, this may be a stupid question, but what kind of fish would they produce?
Would there be definite black belts and definite jack Dempsey's, or would they
create a new kind of fish?
<<Nothing "stupid" about this question, Emily. The fry would be hybrids meaning
they would have some characteristics of both fish. The differences may be muted
or distinct based on the dominance/recessiveness of the gene pools involved.
Likely you would notice "combinations" of coloring and markings on the offspring
but these may not display themselves for upwards of a year. All of this
presupposes, of course, that your fish won't simply be "going through the
motions" of trying to interbreed.>>
Thank you again - I love your website!
Emily
<<Any time, Emily, and thank you as well. Tom>>
Breeding Green Terrors - 03/13/2006
I have a young pair of green terror cichlids. About a week ago they spawned
together and the eggs hatched. At this point they dug a hole through the
gravel to the under-gravel filter and moved the "wigglers" onto the surface
of the under-gravel filter. Obviously, the wigglers were sucked through the
filter where the immediately ceased wiggling. I have since removed the
under-gravel filter to prevent this in future spawns. I was just wondering
how soon I can expect the fish to spawn again. Also, is this problem common with
and under-gravel filter?
< They will spawn again in a couple of weeks if the conditions are right, maybe
sooner. Cichlid aquarists don't use undergravel filters for those exact
reasons.-Chuck>
Thanks,
Dan
Breeding Blue Acaras Re: Incompatible TANK MATES ? - 3/1/2006
> Thank you for the quick reply but it just became obvious why the fish were
> so aggressive towards each other. I came home today and found my blue acaras
> behaving very strangely. Then I noticed a bunch of little dots over one of
> the rocks in the tank, and then it hit they were breeding and that is why
> they were so aggressive towards the other fish. I immediately started
> calling my friends to see if they would take the parrot cichlid and I am
> currently looking for a home the peacock. And I am faced with another
> question. How should I take care of the fry ?
<After three days the eggs will hatch. In three more the fry will have absorbed
the egg sac and need to be fed baby brine shrimp. After two week the fry need to
be moved away from the parents or they may eat them while getting ready to spawn
again.>
I was able to find some articles but none really answering my questions. I know
I should purchase a larger tank for them. I should be taking care of that on
Friday, Do you think a 55-75 gallon tank would be adequate for the 2 adult
acaras and their fry ?
< All depends what you want to do with the fry and how long you intend to keep
them. You will probably have a couple hundred fry at least. In three weeks they
will spawn again and you will have a few hundred more. The newer spawn will get
eaten by the older spawn so you need to keep them separate. I recommend that you
check with you friend and local shop an see how marketable your blue acars are.
If they only want a dozen or so then siphon out what you need to a 20 gallon and
let the parents eat the rest. You could pull the entire spawn and raise them up
in a 55 gallon but for how long?-Chuck>
> other suggestions for care are welcome. Thank you.
Breeding Nicaraguan Cichlids - 02/27/06
Hi Everyone, I have 3 pairs of Nicaragua Cichlids (Hypsophrys nicaraguensis)
that I am trying to breed. Each pair is in its own separate tank. One of the
pair's male built a nest for his female, but she does not seem interested in
mating at all. The second pair has not shown any kind of mating signs. The third
pair has mated once before, but now the male keeps beating up the female and she
doesn't show signs of wanting to mate (although this could be due to the
presence of their juvenile offspring still in the tank). I have owned all of
these cichlids for over a year now, although they have just been paired up and
split up into separate tanks about a month and a half ago. My question is: what
can I do to help stimulate mating in this species of cichlid. Would any kind of
hormone introduction from different breeding cichlid species work? Thank you so
much for helping!!! Sincerely, Kristen
< These are great fish that I have bred many times. First make sure that you
have males and females. Males have spots in the unpaired fins while the females
have no spots. Put them all together in the same tank over lots of fine sand.
Raise the water temp to 82 F. Do big 50% water changes weekly. Feed lots of good
food like worms and high quality pellets. In the wild the male actually uses his
head like a drill and drills holes in the banks of the soft mud. The boring
slopes downward. The female lays non-adhesive eggs that are fertilized by the
male and slowly fall down to the end of the shaft where they are guarded by the
parents. In the aquarium they will dig a pit in the sand under a ledge. Use a
flower pot cut in half length wise and bury half of it in the sand. When you put
them all together the males and females will be allowed to naturally pair off. A
pair will take over the flower pot and chase all the other fish away. The pair
will spawn and lay their eggs in the bottom of the pit under the flower pot.
They will then cover the eggs up with sand. Don't worry, they will be OK. In
about a week the fry will be free swimming and can be fed baby brine shrimp and
crushed flake food. Remove them in a couple of weeks because the parents will be
ready to spawn again very soon. In no time you will have 1,000's of fry to get
rid of.-Chuck>
Breeding Gold Severums 2/10/06
I have two golden severum fish which for a while have been shifting sand and
stones, cleaning a rock, and going through the motions of laying eggs but
haven't as yet. They are kept in a 4 foot tank with 7 dwarf rainbow cichlids, a
red tailed shark and one other algae eater. Any suggestions on what to do to get
them breeding?
< Feed them washed earthworms, brine shrimp, meal worms and king worms. Raise
the water temp to 82 F and do a 50% water change once a week. If they are a pair
then I would think that this would get them going in less than two weeks.-Chuck>
Crossing Cichlids 1/10/06
I have a female parrot cichlid that I am trying to breed with a male black
convict. (I know this is unnatural and frowned upon among the crew, but I liken
it to dog breeding, and I am just curious) I was wondering what a cross such as
this would produce, if anything at all.
< Probably mutts.>
I was also wondering if you could give me any advice on getting my fish in the
mood to breed. I have a 55 gallon with a clown knife (he's moving soon), 2
parrots, a male convict, 2, 5" tricolored sharks, and a pleco. My female use to
drop eggs every month or so but has ceased in the past few months. The knife has
always been present and the only new additions have been the sharks, who I think
should pose no threat, and the convict. Too many fish? Can the amount of light
affect breeding? About the same time she stopped laying eggs I installed a grow
light, which made the tank dimmer, in the past weeks I have changed this out.
Any other suggestions would be great. Keep up the great site, Tom
< Warm clean water with lots of good food often works. Try a couple 50% water
changes over a few days. If they are ready to go then these other factors
shouldn't affect their breeding.-Chuck>
Re: How long does it take eggs to hatch?
Hi,
<Hello>
I just found your site and I'm hoping you can help me. I have a Female Pink
Convict and Male Black Convict and last night she laid eggs and he did his thing
to them. Anyway they are in a 55 gallon tank with other Cichlids, what can I do
to insure the hatching of the babies and how long will it be before they
hatch? Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Shannon
<The best thing you can do is leave them alone as much as possible. The eggs
will generally hatch in 48-72 hours. Take a look at
http://www.geocities.com/dick_pahimulin/articles/a01.htm there’s some good
info there. You're welcome! Ronni>
Jack Dempsey & Managuense breeding (part 2)
We had scarcely fired off our email about whether a Jack Dempsey and a
Managuense could breed when we had a flat rock full of eggs (attached).
How do we tell if these were properly fertilized by the Jack Dempsey?
<Yes. If they hatch out and develop into fry>
They seem to be protecting their egg collection and the female fans it
constantly.
<Not unusual for Neotropical cichlids to cross like this. These are rarely
viable though. Bob Fenner>
Any way to tell if they're going to hatch? A website said they should
hatch in 2 or 3 days but we're kind of curious.
Thanks,
Nathan French |
|

|
Jack and Oscar, or maybe Jack and Jill?
Hi,
This is probably gonna sound nuts. but here goes. I have roughly a 9 inch Oscar
in a 55 gallon tank. and 3 weeks ago introduced a 6 inch Jack Dempsey.
<Yup, nuts, you will need a larger tank in the near future.>
They hit it off the very first night. and seem to be fast friends.
<Interesting.>
However. now they are starting to act as though they want to mate. The Oscar has
dug a huge pit in one side of the tank. and yes. I know they love to dig and
this is normal. but.. the Jack is right there with him. rubbing against the
Oscar. quivering..etc. The Oscar seems to try to keep the Jacks interest. I
don't know if I should stop this. some have told me that they WILL breed. but
may have infertile eggs. or may actually produce live eggs.
What is your opinion on this?
<It is not unusual for these cichlids (Neotropical) to try to cross like this,
chances are they will not be fertile. I would not worry about stopping them,
but I would make sure you keep your water as clean as possible with these large
messy fish. Best Regards, Gage>
Thanks for a great site!
Styler
Jack Dempsey breeding
Dear Crew,
I have a pair of breeding jack's. They bred once, but because of other fish they
ate they're young. I removed the other fish. Nothing has changed as far as the
water quality or temp.
I would like to know how often they lay eggs?
< Jack Dempsey's are actually named after a famous fighter from the 1920's. They
come from Mexico and can get up to 10 inches plus in size. They are not to picky
on water quality and are very easy to breed. Keep the pair warm (80degrees), and
feed them well with some live food and they could be breeding every 2 to 3
weeks. If they are left to take care of the eggs and fry they may delay breeding
again until the fry and or eggs are gone. Typically at 80 degrees the eggs will
hatch in around three days. You will see a batch of small wrigglers in the
bottom of a shallow pit dug by the parents. At the end of three days the fry
will develop tails and absorb their egg sack and begin to swim around. At this
stag they can be fed baby brine shrimp. If left with the parents they may soon
be eaten. Young parents are often inexperienced and will eat their eggs soon
after laying. Don't worry too much. I am sure they will be breeding again before
you know it.-Chuck>
Thanks.
Deb
Too Many Cichlids
Thanks for the response; the eggs were eaten.<bummer> The funny thing about
this though was that there was only one Texas cichlid (about 7"). <Not too
weird, it happens.> The other fish in the tank were an 8" red devil (or Midas,
I'm not sure exactly-it's very orange with a big bump on it's head), a 6" red
terror, a 6" jack Dempsey, a 6" black belt cichlid, a 7" Managuense, and about a
2" convict (I don't know how he's survived??).
<Oh my! That is way too many fish in a 55. I have heard that the Red Devil is
always the last fish in the tank, but I do not know if they ever brought a
Managuense into the equation. I strongly recommend finding homes for some of
these fish, keeping your favorites, and getting a larger tank. Check out
fishbase.org for the full grown size of these monsters. If they were all to
grow you would have no room left for water.>
Is it possible for any of these cichlids to be the mate of the Texas cichlid?
<It is possible that one of these fish would have tried to fertilize the Texas
Cichlids eggs.> How do these type of cichlids "mate"? Do they lay eggs and
then fertilize? The Texas seemed like he was dragging something on top of the
eggs. <Probably one of the others eggs, he was trying to fertilize.> South
American cichlids don't mouth breed, do they? Any information will be greatly
appreciated. <Get a larger tank, and in the mean time, lots of water changes.
-Gage> Thanks so much, Jeff
Oscar + Dempsey
My father recently bought me an Oscar which I already had 1 Dempsey, 1 pacu and
1 gourami in my tank for the past 6 months. As soon as I put the Oscar in, the
Dempsey laid eggs. Is crossbreeding possible or will they live if I follow the
directions that I have already read about separating the fry and adding the blue
stuff? I am very new at this.... I love fish but never had to deal with this.
please help. They were laid yesterday and today is Monday. How long do I have?
< Your Jack Dempsey is from Mexico and the Oscar is from South America. They
never see each other in the wild so natural crosses are not possible. In the
aquarium all bets are off. If the eggs are viable then they will hatch in three
days or so at 80 degrees. The fry will need to be fed baby brine shrimp and
crushed flake food three days after hatching. If they are not any good then they
will turn white and fungus or the female will eat them.-Chuck>
thanks, Natalie
Oscar and BP cross
Hi guys - just a quickie - I've looked everywhere and can't find this info
- so it's over to you.
55 gal tank - one 8 inch tiger Oscar and one 8inch peach coloured Blood
Parrot.
And one nest with lots of eggs (the BP is the female)
Is this going to work - and has it been done before ?
(All of the above was quite accidental, and I have no intention of passing
any fry on).
< Hybridizing cichlids is actually quite easy and happens all the time. Since
you parrot cichlid is already a hybrid between three different cichlids it
doesn't surprise me that she would spawn with an Oscar. I am sure it has been
done before. I am not sure what you mean when you ask is this going to work? Do
you mean are the fry going to be viable? So far no one has published any such
spawn so It is hard to say?-Chuck>
Thanks
Colin Ahern
New World Cichlid Questions 7/18/05
Hello, and thank you for providing this forum. All of the fish I mention
below are healthy, active, and eating a variety of foods, including live (mostly
worms/insects), frozen, and dry. I would like to think that water quality and
tank conditions are well maintained.
I have a 125G tank, and it contains:
(1) 4" Jaguar
(1) 3" Green Terror
(1) 3.5" Texas Bluespot
(2) 3" Jack Dempseys (pair)
(All these fish have been raised together since they were
approx. 1" in length)
(2) 1.5" Corys
(1) 5" Pleco
Recently, the GT laid her first eggs, They went unfertilized, and she correctly
removed them herself. Within two weeks, she has begun showing behavior similar
to that from before her first laying, and she and the TBS have started paying
more attention to each other. (tail-slapping, rubbing, swimming together,
etc) This hadn't happened originally.
Q: How often will the GT lay eggs?
< Every two weeks when properly conditioned.>
Q: What are the odds that these two will produce a hybrid, do I even WANT them
to, and what would I call the kids?
< New world cichlids cross all the time when not kept as pairs. The fry are
usually no big deal if they survive.>
My next question(s) concern two Oscars.
One is an 8" Tiger, and one is a 7" Red. They have been together in a 100G tank
since they were 2" long, (the Tiger was first in the tank, the Red a week later)
and have NEVER fought, or even stayed apart for more than a few minutes. I have
yet to see behavior that would convince me of an attempted mating, except for a
brief period where they fanned an area, moved a few small rocks, and generally
"flirted with each other"..
After a few days, the behavior ceased, they have remained inseparable and
totally peaceful with one another, but have never acted this way again. When I
attempted to add a smaller Albino Tiger, however, they waited roughly a day
before they started harassing and chasing him at every opportunity. Both got
really aggressive towards the newcomer.
The vents suggest (to an unsure me) that the Tiger is female, and the Red is
male...but ONLY after a close inspection shows what appears to be a small white
appendage located completely inside and rearward of the vent. Their fins are
very similar, with the Tiger having the longer and slightly more pronounced
extensions.
What should I believe is most logical:
* I have two males that "just get along".
* I have two females "that just get along".
* I have a male/female pair that is celibate.
* Something in the set-up is not conducive
to breeding (Ph, e.g. )
* None of the above
* If I can't figure it out I shouldn't raise fish.
The two Oscars share the 100G tank only with a 6" pleco, the temperature is
constant @ 79 degrees, the water is cleaned and changed regularly, the tank has
structure (rocks, a false log, a few plants) as well as flat, open areas, one
end of the tank is mildly turbulent, while the other has very little movement,
etc etc bla-bla-bla.
Surely, if it were two males, they would have faced-off at least once, since the
size(s) are virtually the same....so my personal thought is that they are both
female, the absence of a male dictates their peaceful behavior, and they have
realized that there is no reason to lay eggs, since there is no male present.
Otherwise, they would have produced a brood by now. Do fish rationalize this
way, or would Mother Nature take over ? Thank you for any input.
<Sexing Oscars by venting them is not as easy as you would think. Oscars need to
be around two years old before they are ready to breed. Feed them a lot of high
protein food like worms for a few days and change 50% of the water. Turn the
water temp up to 82 F. If they are going to be a pair then this should do it.
You could overfeed your Oscars to make their genitalia pop out. If they both are
the same then it doesn't matter what sex they are. If conditions were favorable
I would think that a female would be close to laying eggs by now. I am inclined
to think you have a couple of males.-Chuck>
TMc.
Cichlid Crosses 10/3/05
I want to get into breeding hybrids. I have a green Severum and I was
wondering what is the best fish to pair it with.
< Try central or south American cichlids of a similar size, like red
devils.-Chuck>
Convicts and Genetics - 10/30/2005
I have 3 breeding pairs of black convict cichlids, two of which have babies
at the moment. My smallest pair have their babies right in the front of the tank
(babies are 3-4 weeks old) and I've noticed that maybe 10 of the babies seem to
be pink. The other couple has all black babies and most of the pair in fronts
babies have the beginnings of black lines too. This is their first brood so I
don't have any past experience to draw on. I'm wondering; is it possible to get
naturally occurring pinks?
<Mm, by "naturally occurring" if you mean an original natural mutation, not
highly likely.>
I was told in order to get pinks I'd need one parent to be pink and that the
brood would hatch equal parts each color.
<Mm, actually, I believe this "pink" trait is recessive.... Basically, your pair
that has some pink offspring are both heterozygous for this trait - they carry
the gene for the color, but do not exhibit it. Thus, roughly 25% of their
offspring will exhibit that trait. 25% of them will be homozygous for the black
trait and not carry the pink trait. 50% of them will carry the trait but not
show it. A pair consisting of one pink fish and one heterozygous black fish
would have 50% heterozygous fry that carry the trait but do not exhibit it, and
50% pink fry. A pair consisting of one pink fish and one fish homozygous for the
black gene would have all fry heterozygous for the trait - they'd all carry the
pink gene, but none would show it.>
I have found TONS of info on convict breeding, but nothing on natural albinos or
how the gene begins. I'd love to hear your thoughts and I'd be happy to send
pictures once they get a little bigger. -Anna
<Sounds like you're having great success with them. Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
Cichlids Breeding With Nothing To Show For It 12/22/05
Hello! I hope very much that you may be able to advise me.
I have a pair of Central American Cichlids - Fenestratum. I acquired the large,
aggressive male fish after he was introduced to a friends established cichlid
aquarium and was beaten up by the other fish when he bullied them and
they ganged up on him. He spent a few days recovering in an "intensive care"
cooler/cool box/esky and then continued his convalescence in the new and huge
tank that I bought to accommodate him. I rather enthusiastically bought him a
wife, slightly smaller than him at 6 inches ( he is about 8 or 9 inches) When I
bought her she was full of eggs and very keen, and almost immediately they laid
a small batch of eggs and successfully nurtured them for several weeks,
displaying for my delight all the intricacies of cichlid courtship, breeding and
parental care behaviour. Eventually the babies started to be threatened by the
bored? father and I removed them to a small tank to grow. My problem is this. My
adult fish continue to repeatedly lay batches of eggs, but none have been
successful hatched since the first "beginners luck" batch. After they have
lost/eaten a batch of eggs. He cools off towards her and can injure her or force
her into hiding so I keep them separated with a transparent tank divider until
they are ready again. It takes them 2-3 weeks before they are "friends" again
and 2-3 days to court and lay. Usually about 90% of the eggs in a batch go white
and fungus, and a very small proportion will hatch, but I think the fish feel it
is wasteful to invest in only 10 or 20 wrigglers and eat them at this point.
These fish are and have been the only fish in the tank. They are otherwise
completely healthy, with healthy appetites. They seem to do everything right in
terms of general and breeding behaviour according to my Central American cichlid
books (Konings and Conkel) They have both grown visibly since I have had them. I
keep the tank clean and tidy, but not over clean it. I have a good quality
established external canister filter running. I feed them a varied diet of 3
different types of cichlid food plus meal worms, and try not to overfeed ( they
are always hungry) I keep them at the recommended temperature. In the 4 months
that I have had them I have treated them once with an ich remedy and water
changed twice since, and given a handful of doses of melafix tea tree remedy for
injuries, but otherwise no meds in there. My question is this. Has one of them
become infertile, and if so which one and why, and is there anything I can do to
improve this? I was utterly delighted when they seemed such perfect fish parents
so soon after I got them, and I have been very disappointed that everything has
gone downhill since. The original babies are now about 2 inches, and there are
very few of them left. I am reluctant to part with them if I will never have any
more to enjoy. I am so grateful for your wisdom.
< Do a 50% water change, vacuum the gravel and clean the filter. Add carbon to
remove any left over medication. I suspect your problem is high nitrates from
only doing two water changes in 4 months. Do weekly 25% water changes to control
nitrates. The melafix may be affecting the sperm of the male and somehow prevent
them from getting to the eggs. Cichlids usually spawn every couple of weeks when
the female is ready. Watch them closely when you put them together so he doesn't
kill her.-Chuck>
Jack Dempsey
I just am wondering if you can tell the sex of Dempseys
by their colors or markings. I have 2 and they are
very different looking, so i wonder if I have a boy
and a girl. How do I tell?
<Actually, this is one of the easier neotropical cichlid species to sex;
especially if they have grown up with similar conditions and are large enough (a
few inches in length). Do take a look at the description listed here:
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/3683/malefemale.htm
Yes, a whole page (actually there are a few of these) dedicated to the Jack
Dempsey Cichlid (Herichthys octofasciata). Males are decidedly more colorful and
have longer, more pointed unpaired pins... Bob Fenner>
Cichlids
I have a Chocolate Cichlid that is about 4 years old and 8"'s long. I
do not know much about them, however I noticed that 'Hershal' was
guarding eggs that were attached to the powerhead tubing and had moved
all the rocks away down to the filter. I called the pet store and they
told me to put Hershal and the tubing in the small tank I have.
So I did. Now Hershal is very angry and not even looking at the eggs.
Do you think the eggs will hatch? Should I have done anything
different? Help Please!!!
Mary Ellen Lafayette, La.
<You have "a" Chocolate Cichlid, not more than one? Hmm, well, "Hershal" is
actually a female... that has laid eggs on her own that are non-fertile, and
therefore will not hatch. As happens with cichlids like Hershal there can be
"troubles" when moving the parents or eggs or decor about during these times.
Hence the "angriness" and disinterest you relate. Going forward, I would leave
your cichlid and its eggs (if indeed it does lay again) in place and take care
that if/when they fungus that your filtration be sufficient to prevent
pollution.
I do want to caution you re trying to find/match a mate with your Chocolate.
After so long living on its own, and attaining such magnificent size, it is
unlikely that this could be done as these fish do become quite territorial. Bob
Fenner>
Breeding Cichlids
Hi Bob!
<Anthony Calfo here in your service>
I have a breeding pair of Cichlasoma bifasciatum. They have laid
eggs and what I wanting to know was ... what should I do? they are in a 55 gal.
tank I only have a few fish none that threatening the eggs. they are very
protective of their corner. Are they good parents?
<even if you are fortunate to have a mature and well behaved pair... it is too
hard to protect the fry in a community tank. If you want to save any babies you
will need to remove them. If you have experience rearing egg hatched fry or want
to try... that is your best bet for babies. Besides... it is fun hatching brine
shrimp/sea monkeys.>
Will they eat the hatched fish?
<possibly>
One is a large fish the other is smaller. Which one is the male?
<the big boy most likely>
They both take care of the eggs. What's there process for hatching?
<hmmm... rather long to explain here. et me look through the archives for a
reference and please do the same if you can beat me too it. Raising cichlids
from eggs is very straight forward work... no trouble at all. Just a little
tedious with live food at first. Best regards, Anthony>
PLEASE HELP Thank you Dana
Color changes, spawning Cichlids
Hi Bob (or Anthony)
Thanks again for the help getting my 75 running a while ago, going great! So far
2 groups of fry!
<Congrats!>
I was reading a post on one of the message boards and figured that out of
everyone I know of you would be the folks that might have the answer. Here is
the question:
"From everything I've read (a sh*t load) there is nothing that says how cichlids
colour up when they begin to reach sexual maturity. All I can find is expect it
from around 2" in size or 6 months in age.
<There is actually a bunch known, written about this field/aspect... not easily
found...in hobby and scientific literature. You might want to make a trip to a
large college library, have a reference librarian give you assistance.>
Therefore do they colour up very quickly (minutes/hours/day) or over a gradual
period of time, such as fins darkening then the rest of the fish?
<Both... some shorter term by nervous effects... others more long-term
physiological (nutrition, water quality, social inputs...)>
Is the process different for different species?"
<Yes! Mmm, you are a promising candidate for the many large (even international)
to local Cichlid "clubs"... do take a look over the Net with your search
engine/s.>
Got any answers? I hope.
Thanks, Pete
<Be chatting. Bob Fenner>
Jack Dempseys
Dear Mr. Fenner:
<Anthony Calfo in your service>
I have 2 adult JD's that have paired up. They spawned once but the fry were
eaten. Last week they laid eggs again, but gradually the eggs disappeared. Now
the bigger JD (I think this is the male) is chasing the smaller JD (the female),
she is hiding and appears to be stressed by this chasing.
<he still wants to spawn and she doesn't... he wants more fresh eggs for
breakfast <G>>
She is also very light in color now.
<yes... a passive coloration>
The female has not been back to the corner of the tank that the eggs where in,
since all the eggs disappeared. This did not happen last time when they spawned,
what do you think is happening? Should I remove her to a different tank.....or
remove him? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Shirley
<remove the male, let the female re-establish her dominance in the tank and try
to re-introduce the later after she has been well fed and conditioned again.
Anthony>
Jewel Cichlid Babies
Hi how is everyone? <<I'm doing well, and you?>> Just a quick question
today. I had a pair of Jewel Cichlids. I recently gave them to my sister-in-law
because my red tail catfish is growing by leaps and bounds (still working on
that huge indoor pond for him) and I was afraid they were going to become lunch.
Well, within a week of giving them to her, they spawned and she now has
several hundred babies in her 75 gal. They're great parents, herding and
defending the babies. The problem is the other fish in the tank. She's got a
bunch of assorted African cichlids, a jack Dempsey, and a purple parrot fish.
What do you think the jewel's chances are of raising at least a few of the
babies in there? <<Not great...>> A pair of jewels I had years ago raised a few
batches of babies in a 55gal with a red devil an Oscar and a tilapia. <<Well...
maybe. Odds still aren't really in favor of the fry.>> But these Africans she
has have quite a different personality. They're like little pit bulls. She
doesn't have the funds or the room for another tank and I don't have another
freshwater tank to separate the other fish to. <<C'est la vie, I suppose.>>
(they'd be lunch for the Red Tail just as surely as the jewels I originally gave
her would have been). If you don't think the jewels have a chance of raising the
babies in there, I'll figure something out for her, but it's going to be a pain.
<<Good luck.>> Thanks once again for your wisdom in all things fishy.
Have a great day. Kristen:)
<<You too. Cheers, J -- >>
Convicted Parents
I have 4 pink convicts. A pair just had babies. They are hiding in a seashell.
My question is, will the parents or 2 other convicts eat the babies?
<Likely not, Convicts are extremely protective parents.>
We have left all four convicts in the tank and the mother and father are very
protective. Though, I can’t tell if they are eating them or not? Should we
separate the babies from everyone else?
<I would leave them until about 3/4" long. At that time, you should remove for
fear of overcrowding.>
Like put them in a plastic separator in the same tank with the others? Someone
told us that the mother will eat them, and they (the babies_ need the mother
around to survive!?
Confused & Concerned in Lake Elsinore, Michael & Tammy Fish
<Do not fear. Your parent fish will usually feed and take care of the young.
-Steven Pro>
Jack Dempsey Fry
I have a pair of Jack Dempseys. The female laid eggs inside of an plastic
ornamental rock. She fanned them for two days, and now we can see the group of
eggs inside the rock squirming around. Not sure what to do next??? My tank info.
is such: a 45 gal. with gravel, good filtration, etc. I do also have two smaller
Fire mouths in the tank as well. I'm afraid the male Jack, or the
Fire mouths will try to eat the eggs, or hatchlings. Should I separate any of
them, or all of? How many offspring approx. should I expect? And what are their
chances for survival? I thank you for your help. Sorry so many questions at
once....Thanks,..........Bub.
<Jacks are pretty good parents, the male should not harm the eggs, however he
will try to harm the Fire mouths, I would consider a separate tank for the Fire
mouths. The female can lay up to 800 eggs, not all of these will hatch, but you
should have plenty of offspring to keep you busy. -Gage>
Jack Dempsey fry
Hi Jack...I am proud to tell you that we have JD babies. I took the fry out
of the main tank a few days ago. They look like little tadpoles and are
free swimming. I think I have about 10-12. I'm feeding them liquid fry
food now. Any further information you could give me on feeding the fry
would be greatly appreciated.
<After a week more, do start graduating to ground up (between your fingers)
dried, prepared foods (flakes, pellets), as often per day in small quantities as
you can. If you'd like to accelerate growth you might look into culturing brine
shrimp>
As this is the 5th batch of babies that we
have had, and the parents always end up eating them. So this time we took
the fry out as soon as they were free swimming. How long can I continue to
use the liquid fry food, and what should I advance to?
<Start phasing out the Liquifry in a week while phasing in the other foods. Bob
Fenner>
Thanks in advance
for your help...Shirley Schiavone...
Baby Jack Dempseys
Hello, I sent an e-mail a couple of weeks ago about my Jack Dempsey's
becoming proud parents of about 300+ babies. Everything is going OK, and they
are growing quickly...but I do not know WHAT TO FEED THEM?????? Please HELP
Thanks, BRETT>>>>>>
<no worries Brett. Dempsey parents are usually quite good. Babies graze on their
mucus when small and then later are fed food crushed and spit out by parents.
Still ... all will not be enough for optimum success in home aquaria. Fresh
hatched baby brine would be nice when they are 2-6 weeks old. This can
supplement small amounts of crushed flak or pelleted foods. When they are around
6 weeks old... a tiny nutritious pelleted food like Vibra-fro is highly
recommended. Do not feed frozen brine shrimp at all. Only fresh live if you
hatch it (nutritive value). Best regards, Anthony>
Breeding mismatched Convicts
Hey, my female "pink" convict and her conventional mate had a successful
school of cool looking half-breeds. Is this common?
<Not uncommon. These are of the same species>
These have a bright
red/orange horizontal stripe down most of the body. The dorsal looks like it
might not develop correctly. How do I continue the strain and can they
inbreed normally?
<Mmm, don't know if I'm understanding you here. Inbreeding (successive
generations from filial young) and breeding back females to their paternal line
are done in aquarium fishes to "fix" strains... with percentage problems in
turn. Bob Fenner>
Thanks,
Chickensam
|
|