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FAQs on Oscars 1

Oscar disease? Potential electrocution
My Oscar is fairly good size, he has been swimming frantically across the tank slamming into the sides and everything else in the tank. When he is not doing that he floats almost as if he is dead. I have him in a 55 gal tank. he has a yellow coloring along his belly and gills. There is also marks on his face from slamming into the rocks on the bottom and turning in circles. He acts as if he is going crazy..
< Carefully unplug all electrical devices going to this tank, NOW! Heater, and pumps and lights, Everything! After a few minutes and everything has cooled down I would inspect all the wires and devices for damage such as frayed wires, cracked housings and or leaks around seals. An electrical short such as in a heater that may have been cracked may be adding current to the tank every time it tries to turn on. This would account for the Oscar wildly dashing around every time the heater is turned on and acting half dead when the heater goes off. If you find any damage do not try and repair it. Instead head down to your local store and get a new and hopefully high quality heater for your tank. I would not try and skimp on price here. The are some models currently on the market that are very durable. As you Oscar chases feeders around the tank he may have inadvertently cracked or damaged it. This can be a very dangerous situation so I would not put my hands in the water until everything is checked out. If everything checks out OK then check the water temperature and make sure it is around 80 degrees. Give your Oscar a large piece of PVC pipe that he can hide in it like a cave. This should help him settle down and give him some refuge from a tank that may be in a high traffic area and stressing him from all the outside activities. Check for infections on the open wounds and watch the fish closely. Do a 30 percent water change and check on the filters to make sure they are operating at full capacity. When you add new treated water to your tank, try and find a water conditioner with some wound control medication included. -Chuck>

Oscar trouble - Gwen's Response
My Oscar is fairly good size, he has been swimming frantically across the tank slamming into the sides and everything else in the tank. When he is not doing that he floats almost as if he is dead. I have him in a 55 gal tank. He has a yellow coloring along his belly and gills. There is also marks on his face from slamming into the rocks on the bottom and turning in circles. He acts as if he is going crazy..
>>Hello. Sorry to hear about your fish. We need to ask you some questions to help us help you. How many inches long is your Oscar? Are there any other fish in with him? Can you please give us some water test results. what are your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels? Please be precise. This is important. Also, how often to you do partial water changes? What exactly do you feed him, and how often do you vacuum the gravel? -Gwen

Tiger Oscars
We have 2 tiger Oscars that have grown very large. They are in a 20 gallon tank that is way too small. We are going to get a 100 gallon tank within the next week. One of our fish has what I believe to be "hole in head disease or HLLE".
< Your Oscars are in too small a tank and the fitter cannot keep up with the excess waste. The hole in the head is caused from poor water quality and poor diet. The new tank will definitely help.>
I came to this conclusion from your website, which is wonderful.
<Thanks>
The other fish had it, but it seems to be healing. Our biggest one has 2 of the wounds. I sent 2 pictures for you to see. I want to know what I should do when I get the bigger aquarium in the next few days.
<Make sure you get a filter that will move at least 300 gallons of water an hour, has a wet dry component to it and is easy to maintain. It will be expensive but worth it in the long run. Take some of the gravel out of the 20 gallon and add it to the 100 gallon after it is set up. There are beneficial bacteria in the gravel that will be needed in the big tank. Use a good water conditioner when adding water. Get some test kits that check for ammonia , nitrite and nitrate. After your tank is established then the nitrate kit will be needed to help determine when you will have to do water changes.>
What should I get to treat them.
< Do not treat at this time. As conditions improve you should see an improvement in the fish but you may have to be patient.>
I feed them only the dried pellets. This is all they have ever had. I feed them twice a day. They are eating fine.
<Buying in bulk makes sense but can have its drawbacks. Fish food tends to lose its vitamin and mineral content quickly after it is opened and exposed to the air. After a container is opened it should be kept in the freezer. A smaller amount can be kept out in an airtight container and replenished after a week or so.>
Can you please just give me a rundown on medication and what I should have for my aquarium.
< More fish are probably killed from improper use of medications then by the diseases they are trying to cure. Keep the 20 gallon as a quarantine tank or a sick tank. Do all you medicating in there if possible. Don't buy any medications until they are needed. Some of them have a short shelf life and degrade quickly and become ineffective over time. Keep up on your water changes and check the filter often. Never feed you Oscars live feeder goldfish. The goldfish are treated poorly and carry numerous diseases that can be added to the tank when feeding them. Try washed earthworms instead as a treat. Not too often or they may become imprinted on them and refuse to eat anything else. Try not too over feed either. I know it is tempting because these fish end up being pro beggars. -Chuck>
I know this is asking a lot. When we first got the fish we did not realize how big they would get. However, they are family and we don't want to get rid of them, we want to do what is necessary for their health and happiness. Thank you for any information you can assist me with.
Kim Gullett

Oscar
Dear WWM Crew, I have written in the past regarding an "upside down" Oscar, who is still alive, but seemingly not well. I strongly believe that he has permanent swim bladder damage b/c he does not float and has been on his side
at the bottom of the tank for some time now.
< The swim bladder in cichlids is an open system in which the fish can change the size depending on depth and conditions. Deep water rift lake cichlids take a few days do decompress like divers from deeper waters. The valve that controls this can become infected and close permanently. It appears your Oscar is in this category.>
In addition, there is a permanent small distended area around his rectal area, which can vary slightly in size.
< It appears there is or was a definite internal infection with your Oscar>
I clean the tank one a week (30 gal.) and use Epsom salt each time because it seems to help keep the distention at bay. I have not tried any other treatments.
< The damage is already done and he will probably not get any better>
He still eats very well and can swim, although only with major effort and tires so quickly that I often end up pushing the
food toward him to help. It is very upsetting to see him in this state and I worry that he his suffering. I've considered Euthanizing and you have suggested that freezing is the most humane, but I don't see how since he will be removed from the tank he has resided in for several years and placed in a dark place that get progressively colder. Perhaps, I'm thinking too much (my husband complaint). Any suggestions?
< Your fish will probably not get any better. If you want to try to save him you can get some medicated food with Metronidazole in it. Feed it to him for a couple of days, clean the filter and vacuum the gravel to get rid of the built up waste. Raise the water temperature to 82 degrees. Repeat the medicated food in a week. It probably will not work since your Oscar is a few years old and only live a couple of years in the wild. An Oscar that is "several years old" probably has his best years behind him. To euthanize you fish I would take some water out of the aquarium and place it in a small bucket with just enough water to cover the top of him. Place a few Alka-Seltzer's?) tablets in the bucket. The kind you get at the drug store for headaches. The tablets will foam when they hit the water and put out Co2 gas. This will put him to sleep. He will still be breathing but will be unconscious. Then put him in a plastic fish bag with some of the water from the bucket and place him in the freezer. The cold will slowly kill him and you can then dispose of him. -Chuck>

RE: Oscar
Chuck, Thanks so much for your reply. I do want to clarify that I have in the past tried to medicate. This condition has been an issue for almost a year now and the last time I was in contact with your awesome crew, he seemed to show promise after the initial Epsom salt treatment, he was even floating on his own. However, not too long after he took a sudden turn for the worse and has never recovered! He is over five years old at this point. Anyway, thanks for your advice. Would you agree that he would be better off in the Seltzer-seltzer bath at this point?
< That is probably best for both you and the fish. A new fish active in your tank would also be much more entertaining and make things much easier to take care of. Hopefully another cichlid since they are a personal favorite of mine. Good luck -Chuck> Thanks much. Best, Kim

Oscar doing Headstand.
>I have two Oscars in a 55 gallon tank.  Spooky is about 8 inches and Sleepy Jean is about 12. I changed the about 1/3 of the water two days ago, and Spooky has been pretty much standing on his head ever since.
>>Hi Terri. How often do you normally do water changes? What are your ammonia, nitrite and nitrate readings?
>He is very bloated.  I'm not an expert in regards to PH balance and all that, unfortunately.  I did put ammonia clear tank buddies tablets in there, and added Nutrafin waste control to the tank after the change.  I know I need a bigger tank.
>>You should really concentrate on water changes and proper filter maintenance, instead of adding chemicals. A nitrate test kit will help you determine how often to change your water, and without testing it for you, I can probably safely say you should be doing at least 50% of the volume TWICE a week. Yes, your tank is far too small for these fish. They are being poisoned by their own waste.
>He may have eaten too much.  I don't feed them feeders, just frozen bloodworms and Wardley Cichlid floating pellets. Yesterday morning I dropped in 10 Maracyn-Two tablets.
>>Again, test your water to be sure. If you are adding medications, you will also need to test for ammonia and nitrite readings as well, since antibiotics will kill your biofiltration.
>I'm sure that I've overfed them recently, because there is food at the bottom.
>>By the way, how often do you vacuum the gravel?
>Last night I added 5 tablespoons of Epsom Salt after reading over your e-mails.   My questions are - do I continue with the Maracyn-two? How often on the Epsom Salt, what would be best to feed them at this time, what is the best temperature for the tank, should I separate Sleepy Jean, although I don't know where I would put her. She is really concerned and hovering but not biting him. She seems to be well. He's not eating anything.  (I have a 30 gallon tank with a 5 inch goldfish and some Plecos and striped Rafael's which she would definitely kill.)     Any suggestions and prayers would be greatly appreciated.
>>Do not move them. Do they show any signs of HITH? Please respond with your test readings :)
>Thank you for being there... Terri
>>You are welcome. -Gwen

Pairing Oscars
Hello;
I love your site as it has been very helpful to me in the past.
<Thank you, I'm glad we could be of service.>
I just bought two Oscars and I was trying to figure out if they had paired or not and if I needed to be prepared for them to spawn.
<Oscar breeding can be quite a rewarding as well as demanding hobby.>
They constantly follow one another around the tank and share the feeder fish I have given to them. They seem to be the best of friends.
<These are not typically signs that instantly tell you it's a breeding pair, I have known fish that never bred to do similar actions.>
They are only about 2-3 inches at this point so I am wondering if these two have paired with one another?
<That is far to small to tell if they are paired or not, When they get around 6-8 inches you will be able to tell if they are paired. If not be careful some Oscars if not given enough room can become aggressive to one another. If they continue to spend time with each other as they mature, then chances are good that you do have a male/female pair of Oscars.>
Thanks for all of the help Eli, Pittsburgh, PA
<There are loads of resources online to help with caring for Oscars, please look at our cichlid section on WetWebMedia.Com. Good Luck.-Magnus.>

I have two Oscars …
<Hi there, Just want to start off this email with the note that Oscars get very large, and you will need a large tank to handle both of these fish when they get older. They become aggressive and territorial, not to mention extremely messy. So, please make sure that you have a large enough tank to allow each room. I suggest a single Oscar should be kept in a minimum of a 55 gallon tank. Two Oscars, if they are a mated pair can do well in a 90 gallon breeder tank (larger footprint). If these pair aren't mated then +100 gallon tank is needed.>
The other day I came home to find the smaller of the 2 (4 inches) with all of its scales off and in two spots its flesh was exposed…
<Your Oscars are fighting. The larger more dominant one is attacking the smaller one because it's invading it's "territory". This is a sign that you probably have to small of a tank. It's missing scales because the larger one is attacking and ripping them off. This is not good because that means that the fish will have damaged fins and skin and will run the risk of infections.>
Now two days later it has this fluffy white substance coming out of the 2 wounds …I’m hoping its not a fungus but I have a feeling it is.
<Yes it's fungus. In fact True Fungus which is described as Whitish tufts of cotton-like material on the fin, tail, and body at sites of injury.>
Please let me know what’s the best way to take care of this
<separate the fish so that the little Oscar is not being attacked and scales ripped off is the first thing you should do. Set up a medicine tank to handle the fish, and you might want to set up a large one for it to be his permanent home. Once it's in a separate tank I suggest you start medicating him immediately body fungus is dangerous, and can spread quite easily on a stressed and sick fish. Treat with MarOxy (a medicine produced by the Mardel company). Use Maracyn-Two or Maracyn or Tetracycline or TriSulfa to prevent secondary infections.>
and also if there is any food that may be more appealing to him (not to interested in eating since the whole thing happened)
<That is to be expected, he is being attacked by a dominant fish, his natural reaction is to back down, hide and allow the larger fish to eat. There are many different foods for your Oscar, they aren't picky at all. Not sure what you are feeding, but Hikari makes some rather nice Oscar pellets that most Oscars go crazy for. If not, then you might want to try feeding you Oscar a couple of Crickets (yes the little bugs you get at the store) Oscars diets in the wild are over 60% bugs. Just float them on the surface and the Oscar might be intrigued by the bug to perk him up and then he will start eating again.>
Thanks so much!!! Dena
<Hope that helps. Good luck with the fish, and look around online there are some great forums totally dealing with Oscars. -Magnus>

"Oscar in brackish...?!?" (10/28/03)
<Hi! Ananda here this afternoon...>
Hi, I'm trying to figure out what I might have in my tank. I have a brackish tank, it is kept at about 78-80 degrees. the specific gravity is 1.005, the pH is 7.2-7.4. nitrite, nitrate, and ammonia are all zero, and I do a weekly 25% water change.
<So far so good...>
About three weeks ago our African cichlid (sorry the exact type was never known) showed signs of fin rot.
<Wait. This was in the brackish tank? African cichlids are *not* brackish fish. Also, 7.2-7.4 is far too low a pH for them.>
I treated the tank with Maracyn, by the third day the cichlid was moving around again, and the forth even showed signs of re-growth. On the morning of the fifth I found him dead. I continued the treatment until finished. Then did a large water change (half). I waited a little over a week and then got an red Oscar from a reputable fish store. Within about 3-4 hours in my tank the Oscar showed signs of fin rot and body fungus and was dead in under 12 hours. During this whole period I tested the tank frequently and never found a reading off.
<Oscars are even less of a brackish fish than African cichlids. They're from South America, where the water is salt-free and on the acidic side of things. I am not surprised you lost the Oscar -- it suffered from osmotic shock in being moved from freshwater to brackish water, and possibly pH shock as well.>
The other three fish we have including a bumble bee Oscar show no signs of anything and were perfectly fine throughout the whole ordeal. (also a Columbian shark and a figure 8 puffer)
<Hmmm. The bumblebee Oscar will do better in a freshwater tank, too. But do not move him directly from a brackish system to a freshwater system -- that transition should be done slowly. The other two fish should remain in a brackish system.>
I trust my fish store and the rest of the Oscars there are all fine.
<Yes, as they are in a freshwater system.>
What could possibly effect only these fish and happen so fast?
<Osmotic shock and pH shock.>
I would really like to get another fish, probably an Oscar or cichlid but I'm scared there's still something in my tank. Thanks -Dan
<Get another tank before you get another fish -- then move your existing Oscar to the tank, slowly drop the spg. down to 1.0000, and then consider getting another Oscar. Oscars, African cichlids, and brackish fish come from very different water chemistries and should not be kept in the same tank. --Ananda>

Oscar problems
I was reading the articles listed. I am having a problem with one of my tigers. First I have them in a 55 gallon tank they are both only about 6 inches each, they were bought at the same time and have been together.
<Okay>
Recently we had gotten some bad spring water which caused an algae growth. I have been doing tank changes of at least 50% every other day and it is pretty much under control. But now one of my guys is laying around and his sides look as though the other has been pecking at it. I do not know if I have males or females or one of each. I did go to my local pet store to see if they new anything that I could do. They had the usual round of questions did I test the water if they are eating etc. Water is at normal levels
<Normal being what? What are your readings for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH? You mentioned spring water - what are you using for these large water changes?>
and no they are not eating for at least 3 days now.
<*Neither* of them are eating? I would have suspected aggression above all things, but this does throw in a twist. Most likely this is an environmental issue - with the massive water changes especially; what is your current pH, and has it changed at all since before the water changes? Bottled spring water may very well not always have the same pH, other parameters. Is there any reason you don't use (dechlorinated) tapwater?>
Any information you can offer greatly appreciated. Karen

Oscar problems - II
The normal levels are according to my test kits. Off hand I could not tell you the actual numbers I can tell you they were all 1 level low during the algae growth time period but now that there is a faint green tone yet the levels have come back up. (not sure that this helps any)
<Well, I'm not quite understanding what you mean, I'm afraid; it does sound, from what I can figure, that you've had some issues with water parameters fluctuating. If possible, do please re-test your water, check for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH, jot down the values, and let us know; I'm leaning towards something here being out of whack.>
Yes I only use the spring water. For these last string of water changes I bought new jugs with seals and all. Normally I go to the local store with the system out front that you fill your own for .25 per gallon.
<Seals 'n' all or from the spigot - the water may still differ significantly on certain things (pH especially, also mineral content). The fact that you got a 'bad' batch that led to an algae bloom (high phosphate levels), in and of itself confirms that the spring water (well, from the spigot, basically just reverse osmosis water) is definitely fluctuating in quality. If the pH in the water that you've recently changed is different from what the fish are used to, it will definitely cause serious problems - and I think that's what you're dealing with, though without test results (and knowing what it's supposed to be, normally), can not say for certain.>
This morning I got the healthier one to eat some brine shrimp pellets but the other is still not eating. As far as the tap water I don't use it anymore due to having lost a whole tank of fish because our levels were too far off. that was over 1 1/2 years ago and I have never had any problems till now.
<Well, depending upon what you're starting out with (tap water, what parameters there; dechlorinator, etc.), it really, really might be a better idea to switch back to tap water (slowly, of course) once you've gotten everything settled. Reason being, at least you know what you have to work with, and know where you need to go with it - spring/drinking/bottled water is always a mystery, and may lack things the fish need, etc.>
Now to add to everything.... I did move the other into a (I know this is not the best but..) 10 gallon tank, this is my feeder tank and it had no problems with the water. This is the ill one. It is now at least swimming around still not eating but swimming at least.
<This makes me feel even more strongly that there's some environmental issue in the main tank - most likely pH.>
I am looking to move it back within next 24 hours don't like having it in such a small tank.
<I would not - not yet. Let him heal up first, start eating again. A six-inch Oscar can sit in a 10 gallon hospital tank for a few days without problems - provided water quality is watched closely. Be certain that water you use for water changes in this temporary tank is of the same pH as the water that's currently in there - this is crucial right now; a roller coaster with pH levels is one sure way to make fish sick(er).>
I have been told to put Epsom salt in the water of the 55 to help heal the scales. Is that good for it??
<Might help, yes>
See I am also trying to figure out why Archie would have pecked at it so bad. they did this when I first got them Archie would put bites in the head and actually I had figured that was a territorial thing but as time went on and Archie got bigger then Jughead (the ill one) he got nicer. if the comets were to big Archie took bites out of it and "shared"
<Likely they will never be utterly peaceful with one another - ultimately, you may have some serious aggression, unless they are male/female and decide they like each other.>
But if you look at Jughead sides you would be able to understand a little more. He is slimy and all but it looks like he had rubbed up against something and sheared the scales off which is why I am so worried its not consistent with the bites from when they were younger.
<Again, sounds like issues with water parameters, perhaps>
On your site I was reading the other posts and there was a person with a similar problem but there were not replies to her question. she was thinking hers could have been pregnant?
<?? hmm, that's very odd.... wonder what happened.... I can't seem to find that particular FAQ>
I am hoping this is not what this is since I have basically messed things up worse by moving the one out of tank but could that be a possibility here???
<This definitely is not pregnancy, from what I can figure so far - and I feel that you've done good by moving the sick(er) fish out, especially since you're seeing improvement, that's always a good sign.>
these guys are my babies I play games with them even I don't want any thing to happen to them and if I loose Jughead I really cant replace him because of Archie's size he would just end up eating the new ones......
<I do understand your connection with your fish. Please check your water, also test the bottled water, and the water that you usually get from the store so we can compare and find out what's gone wrong; while you're at it, you might go ahead and test your tapwater, too, just for future reference. Perhaps we can figure out if pH is the issue, or rule that out and move on.>
Thank you for all your help so far
<Glad to be of service. -Sabrina>

Oscar Problems - III
OK Now unfortunately I had moved Jughead back into the 55 after treating with salt water. Archie immediately went after it. put net in and that kept Archie at bay as I sent my husband to the store for a divider.
<I'm sorry to hear that, though not surprised. Oscars generally do not play well together, in many circumstances. Your guys are still small, but if they're feeling cramped in that 55 (which, if not now, they will sooner or later), that'll definitely make them aggressive toward one another.>
Unfortunately they gave him an empty box with some of the pieces to one.
<Oi. Anything that can go wrong....>
put Archie in the other tank both are doing good now, swimming and such though Jughead still not eating. tested my waters tank water is in the normal range on all (as far as my test kit NH3/NH4 was 0, NO2 was between the levels of .03 and .08 and "normal" is about .08,
<A nitrite reading this high is not 'normal' or safe at all - this is *toxic* - nitrite should absolutely be zero. I assume the tank is cycling again after the massive water changes, cleaning, etc; you'll probably have to change water to keep nitrite levels manageable while the cycle completes (do not clean gravel or filter during this time; the biological filtration needs a chance to reestablish). What about ammonia? nitrate?>
and my ph is at about 6.5 to 7 and that is about "normal"
<Between 6.5 and 7.0 is a pretty large difference; could cause pH shock, etc. What did you keep the pH at before the massive cleaning? We'll call that 'normal' - if the pH in the bottled water is different, that is not normal. If the pH in the bottled water is different from the pH in the source water you usually use (the water dispenser at the store, right?), that's also not normal. The only way you can safely know what's in the bottled water or coming from the spigot, is to test the water. The reason you got an algae problem from the 'bad' batch of water from the store was likely from a filter that was past its prime, leaving the water with high phosphate levels (which fed the algae). The point that I'm trying to make here is that with store-bought water, you're playing liquid Russian roulette, unless you test the water before using it, so you know what you've got to work with. At the very least, test the water you use for pH - if it's not the *same* as the water in the tank, then it is cause for concern, when changing water - especially in large quantities.>
my tap water after I tested per your suggestion has a ph of 8 to 8.5 and right there is where I stopped. I don't trust this tap water at all.
<I'm rather curious what test kits you're using - between 6.5 and 7.0, and between 8.0 and 8.5 is *extremely* vague - a 0.5 difference might mean life or death to very sensitive fish (fortunately, Oscars aren't terribly sensitive, but this significant a change will still harm them). Also, I'm very concerned about the nitrite test, as well - between .03 and .08 is also very vague; and again, any nitrite above zero is toxic. Anyhow, a high pH out of the tap is fixable - mine is horribly high in the summer (for instance, it is now *down* to 8.9, coming into fall), but it is still quite manageable with peat and bogwood to bring the pH down naturally. 'Course, there are plenty of other factors at play with tap water, and I do agree that some is *not* desirable to use - just please, if you're going to use store-bought water, at least test the pH before using, so you have half an idea what you're putting into the tank.>
Unfortunately now I am getting really discouraged!
<Nah, don't let that happen! You can get this squared away, one way or another.>
I am either being told to invest another 300 on an other tank,
<In the long run, if not quite soon, the two Oscars will be essentially incompatible in a 55 gallon tank, so I understand where this statement is coming from.>
stop feeding the feeder fish to them,
<Ooh. Didn't realize you were using feeders.... I very much, wholeheartedly agree that you should wean them off these! Feeder fish can (and do) bring in disease to fish being fed - if the feeder has something nasty, the fish that eats it runs quite a risk of catching it.>
let nature take its course, and not too worry because I have enough other animals why should I worry over one.
<Hey, I'm with ya all the way, here - *every* animal under our care deserves equal treatment, care, respect....>
I will admit I do have a lot of animals between me and my family but I don't want to loose any (other then feeders) and I have had these fish toooooo long not to worry.
<Agreed, one hundred percent.>
The water is not the issue here.
<Perhaps not *the* issue, but certainly *an* issue.>
the only thing that this could be anymore is territorial or they are attempting to mate and not to go against your judgment (you do know more of this subject then me) but once Jughead heals I will have to put them back in the tank together.
<This is not going to work out, at least in the long run. Trying to keep them together if they're fighting is going to result in illness or death. Even if it is an attempt at breeding (which I *highly* doubt), it shouldn't be attempted in the small confines of a 55g....>
Unfortunately I have consulted a number of people on this problem and I'm afraid you are getting the butt-end of it all. I am just overly upset when I am told to not worry because I have enough animals already. Sorry that gets me!!!!
<No sorry about it - I totally agree.>
I don't buy my feeders from the stores anymore I breed on my own. except for the feeder fish and that's because they do eat a lot. and now I am being told to either let the feeder fish sit for 2 weeks or not buy from a pet store. I am not understanding this I let the feeder sit about 2-3 days because most die off in that time.
<Umm, I'm confused. Are you buying feeder fish from the store, or are you breeding your own feeder fish? Breeding your own is safe; you know if the fish are sick, etc. Purchasing feeders is a major gamble - you say they're dying off in two or three days, so obviously there's something wrong with them - you don't want your Oscars eating diseased food, right?>
I don't add new until the old is gone and it is hard to get food Archie and Jughead will eat in between. they both do not eat floating things. so flakes are out, I bought them cichlid pellets they wont eat them cause the float and when they were little I could get granules that sank they ate those. they are now toooooo big for those. the brine shrimp is the only thing I can feed them that they will eat that's not alive. and then its hard. they have to catch it so it takes me 20 minutes to feed them!
<There are lots of food options. Please look into frozen foods - I'd most strongly suggest Ocean Nutrition's frozen "Formula One", which is marketed for saltwater fish, but is excellent fare for freshwater dudes, as well - you might have to mush it up a bit to get it to sink, but eventually the Oscar's catch on and love it. Frozen bloodworms, bits of frozen shrimp or prawn (the people-food kind), lots and lots of options beyond live feeder fish. Hey, even earthworms.>
Now I seem to be ranting I apologize about this I just hate that people can sell these fish and then not know anything about them
<Agreed>
and the one person I trust (small family owned store) she is tooo busy complaining cause I breed rodents for food to take the time to help.
<Yum, rodents! The scaly pals have got to eat, too....>
I think I am done ranting----How long should I expect if this if a mating issue for this to last?

Or should I just let Jughead heal and let nature take its course?
<Not what I'd do.... But then, you're about to hate what I'd do.... Your best bet is to find one Oscar a new home (either a new tank, or with someone else). The territoriality will only get worse, and the loser will, well, lose. *If* you try to reintroduce Jughead, first change around all the decorations, make it look totally different to Archie. This *might* buy you some time. Certainly do not try to reintroduce Jughead until he/she has completely healed. Please do read through this link: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/oscars.htm . Lots of good info, there; and please do browse through the freshwater articles for more info on water, treating, etc. Hope everything works out for you. -Sabrina>
Karen

Swollen Oscar
Hello all,
I was here a few days ago asking for help getting an ID on "Thing". Well, my friend did her best to scrub the life out of thing, so we will have to wait and see if he pops back up so I can get a photo.
Until then, I have another friend (no computer) with an ill Oscar who is over 12 inches long. The Oscar is believed to be female and has been swelling since Labor day. My friend assumed she was gravid and prepared for eggs. But nothing has been laid. The Oscar prolapses her cloaca (sometimes she extends it a lot, sometimes just a bit) and then nothing. No eggs. Her body is swollen. It looks like she is carrying half of a small orange on each side of her body. One side is a bit bigger than the other. Her scales are stretched and you can see the skin between them---- but they are not sticking out like a fish with dropsy. I managed to touch her side and it is firm to the touch. The swelling rides low on her sides and is does not look like a case of sudden obesity. She also has no other abnormalities or injuries. She eats well, swims normally, and lives peaceably with her "mate" of similar size and a huge Pleco.
 All three of these fish were moved into a 75 gallon from a 30 gallon a few months ago. My friend inherited them from her brother who had kept them in the 30 for years. The 75 is filtered by two Emperor 280's and the fish are fed Hikari cichlid pellets and have never really been fed gold fish. I don't know what her water parameters are at the moment (no test kit handy), but she does monthly water changes.
 Any suggestions as to what would be causing the prolapse and swelling?
Thanks,
<Sounds to me like too much dry food for a glutinous fish over too long of a time period, chances are she is blocked up. I would start by adding Epsom salt to the water, 1 tablespoon per five gallons and then a half dose again 3 days later. You will also want to perform some large water changes to ensure good water quality. Start varying the fishes diet with some thawed frozen foods as well. Best of Luck, Gage. See here for more info
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/oscarfaqs.htm >

Oscar Color Changing
Good Morning,
<Hey Rusty.>
Just happened on your site, enjoy the info very much!
<Excellent, be sure to check out this article
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/oscars.htm >
I have a question. I have a single Oscar, 55 gallon tank, and is about 6 inches long now. This is a wonderful pet, and is very personable. He (or she) was purchased at a PetSmart, and not sure what type of Oscar, was sold as a Red and he is sort of a grayish color with orange markings on his flanks. <Probably a Red Oscar, could be a Tiger Oscar, Astronotus ocellatus either way.> He seems to be very happy and healthy. Over the last month he has begun to display the oddest thing I have ever seen, and was wondering if this is common in Oscars as he is the first one I have ever owned?
Occasionally, he will flash colors, and I do mean flash. His orange coloration will light up and literally "glow" I've never seen anything like this, almost like he swallowed a light bulb! CRAZY LOOKIN! I cant seem to identify anything in particular he is doing when this occurs, is sporadic, and when I approach him the colors will rather quickly fade back to his normal coloration. Is this normal Oscar behavior?
<It is normal, and very cool. Oscars change their colors depending upon their mood, scared, happy, defensive, don't be surprised if he gets really excited when he sees you, he will recognize you as the guy with the food. Enjoy your Oscars moodiness, and do consider a larger tank in the future. If you are not already, pick up some color enhancing food to really get him glowing. Best Regards, Gage>
Thanks,
Rusty

Oscar Won't Eat 10/14/03
He's about 8inches and in a 55 Gallon tank with a 6 to 7 inch Plecostomus (a
Snow King Pleco or Hypostomus plecostomus [it looks like both I got it at a
local Wal-Mart]), 2.5 inch and a 3 inch electric blue African Cichlids, and a
3 inch Opaline Gourami.
<Most aquarists agree that a 55 US gallon tank is the absolute minimum tank size to house an adult Oscar. This is because a smaller tank simply does not have enough water in it to dilute the waste produced by the Oscar. It is also because a smaller tank simply does not have enough room for the Oscar to swim. A standard 55 gal tank is about 4 feet long and one foot wide. Since an average Oscar grows to about 12 inches a 55 gal barely provides room to turn, and provides a straight line swimming distance of about 4 body lengths, which is not much. Never mind a common Pleco, which can grow twice as large as an Oscar.>
I'm not sure on the tank chemistry as I've never had
reason to check it so haven't bothered to get any tests.
<As I believe you tank is overstocked with 2 very messy fish (Oscars & Plecos are poop machines) I am almost sure you will find your water parameters are way off. Without hefty (50-80%) & often (weekly-biweekly) water changes, I don't see how they can't be.>
It is filtered with
a BioWheel filter and an undergravel filter which gets vacuumed weekly. I feed
Medium Cichlid pellets and tropical fish granules.

Every thing in the tank
is eating but the Oscar. The Oscar hasn't eaten for about 2 or 3 days now.

The only thing I've noticed different lately is the Plecostomus started
eating the cichlid pellets about a week ago. Previously only the Oscar was
eating them. I've put in extra since the Plecostomus started eating them too.
<What was the Pleco eating before?>
I hope you can help.
<Have your water tested, or better yet, get your own test kit. You can buy a Master Test Kit for around $10 at www.bigalsonline.com. Either way, have your LFS test it tomorrow. As long as these fish are in that small of a tank, you are going to keep a close eye on the water parameters.>
I'm rather attached to him.

My Oscar won't eat.....
I had bought my fish under the impression that an inch of fish for every
gallon of water was the general rule of thumb to go by.
<That rule is only for small, thin fish like guppies, Neons, etc. Imagine 10 1" Neons, or 5 2" guppies in a 10g tank. Sounds ok? Now imagine a 10" Oscar in that same 10g tank. Kind of crowded for that fish. Got it?>
The Pleco was eating algae before.
<Now he'll be eating algae wafers, right?>
Ok, Thanks for your Help.
<You're welcome--Pufferpunk>

Cramped Oscars
<Hello! Ryan with you>
I have a 30 gallon freshwater fish tank I have 3 Oscars and 2 Cichlids fish in there. I have fallen in love with a Albino Oscar and would like to know How many more fish I can fit in the tank. Currently my fish get along fine. My tank has been up for 2 months.
<1 Oscar will be cramped in your 30 gallon setup when fully grown. You've fallen in love with an animal that's going to require more space, certainly if you'd like to keep more than one. Four Oscars would require 125+ gallons for adequate room for movement. Good luck! Ryan>

Plec for an Oscar tank
Dear wealth of knowledge,
I have a 75g freshwater tank which is currently empty. I am thinking about purchasing either 2 red Oscars or 1 red Oscar and 1 tiger Oscar. My question for you guys is what my options for a "clean-up" Pleco are, keeping in mind tank size.
<I assume by "clean-up" you want something to eat algae, right? This in mind, I'd suggest the royal Plecostomus, Panaque nigrolineatus http://www.planetcatfish.com/catelog/loricari/panaque/151_f.htm . This is a pretty good grazing plec, and should do a number on algae; will likely need to be supplemented with greens (like blanched zucchini, for one). It'll also require driftwood, without a doubt. And might be a bad choice for a Plexiglas tank, as they have teeth that'll wreak havoc on plexi, leaving scratches.>
I also wanted to know a little about freshwater (red tail) barracudas. I have found it a little difficult to find info on them. I am wondering about tank size, compatibility, and how prone it is to disease. Thanks a lot! Zack
<Do you happen to have a Latin name for this guy? Right now, I'm inclined to think you mean "Acestrorhynchus falcatus". Try looking this up on fishbase.org, and do a google search on this name to see what info you can get. Wishing you well, -Sabrina>

Infected Oscar
<Hello, Ryan helping you today>
Hey, I've had my Oscar for about a year now. And today for the first time I noticed he has a bug or some kind of parasite living on it's tale. He also, seems more agitated than usual. Maybe you would know anything about this, and will this harm the Oscar. Is there any products available or should I try to remove the bug myself. I wouldn't want to loose him, I've invested enough $.
 <Stef, it's going to be difficult to give you advice without more detail. There are many parasitic and infectious diseases that can affect your freshwater fish. You can read up on them here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwfshparasites.htm
After reading, if you haven't come up with any ideas as to what it may be, take a digital photo and send it our way! Best of luck! Ryan>
Thanks, Stef

Epsom salt treatment 9/2/03
Good morning. Another follow-up on our Oscar. Since my first email below, we gratefully took your awesome advice (as it turns out) and treated Oscar with the Epsom salt twice along with a water change. The good news is that he's had a couple successful (and quite healthy) bowel movements and the swelling on his belly is more or less gone.
<excellent and as hoped/expected>
Naturally, we are thrilled. The only problem now is that he is now laying on the bottom of tank.
<very common with even healthy Oscars at times... in time will improve>
That is, he's not upside down, but flat on his side (his poor eyeball!).
<heehee... truly not uncommon at all>
However, with what seems like a ton of effort he will swim to the top of the tank to get food (no more hand feeding with wooden skewers), but as soon as he gives up trying he sinks.
<stress or damage to swim bladder... may heal in time.>
Any thoughts on this? Can they lose their ability to swim
if either the swim bladder was affected for too long or haven't been swimming? If so, will he ever swim again or will he be doomed to the bottom of the tank for the rest of his life? Thanks in advance for your help. I look forward to hearing from you.
<we cannot say for certain... but Oscars are amazingly resilient. I think it is more likely he will recover in time. Wishing you the best, Anthony>

Upside Down Oscar - Round 2!
Dear Anthony/Crew, Kim here again searching for more advice for my poor upside down Oscar. : (
<Hmmm... not a good sign>
As you will recall, my Oscar was upside down for several
weeks over the summer due to a distention of the rectal area. In early September, at your wise counsel, I stopped all meds and started Epsom salt treatments (6 tablespoons for 30 gallons), which I repeated in 3 days and have continued once a week with water changes. For a long while, he was swelling free, but
laying at the bottom of the tank. Then he began to hold himself upright and swimming normally for short periods of time.
<'tis the case for most... slow and steady progress if the imbalance/blockage was minor>
However, in the last two weeks the area has become distended on a daily basis, but only for short sporadic periods of time. When he made the effort to swim, such as at feeding time, it would almost instantly deflate. Unfortunately, this has changed in the last two
days. The distention has returned and is constant. He has been upside down now for two days, floating at the top of the tank. The good news (I guess) is that he is still eager as ever to eat the brine shrimp and beef heart each night. Nonetheless the bloated area has grown larger in the last 24 hours, and he can
not swim normally at all. Help! Perhaps, I am not feeding him enough (usually 3 brine shrimp gumdrops and two thumbnail size chunks of beef heart once a day at night. The last two or three water changes (w/Epsom), I slightly cleaned the gravel. Could I have disrupted the beneficial bacteria that I understand
resides in the gravel? The Epsom salt and food has been a constant, nothing else has changed except that I started cleaning the gravel. Your thoughts and advice would be very much appreciated. Sincerely, Kim Olson
<no worries on the gravel cleaning... it is quite necessary. I fear at this point that the problem with your Oscar is more serious. That still does not mean incurable. Internal parasites may have perforated organ/tissue walls internally and injured the swim bladder. There may be a persistent infection too. Using medicated pelleted foods (bacterial and parasitic) may help here. Else I wonder if there isn't a congenital defect that has developed or some irreparable damage. Alas, time will tell. Do try the medicated food sticks/pellets. Hoping for the best :) Anthony>

- RE: Oscar Problems -
Thanks for the advice. I tried the Epsom salt (One tablespoon per five gallons the first day, and then half the dose the second) and it didn't work. Some days his bubble is smaller, but the next it's back to it's large size. He has been making a little progress b/c he's swimming now, but he hasn't eaten in about 3-4 weeks. Any other suggestions? It looks so painful!
Thanks.
-Mia
<This will take several weeks to heal up. Two days with Epsom salts isn't going to do much/enough. Please continue the treatment and be patient.
Cheers, J -- >

- RE: Bloated Oscar -
So how should I continue treatment? <Just give this time to heal - your previous email you stated that you tried the salts for two days and nothing happened. My reply was really just meant to encourage you to wait a little while longer... this problem will not heal in two days, will take much longer than this.> How much for how many consecutive days, and how often should I change the water? <Should probably be changing 5% a week, and just replenish the salts at that time.>
Thanks for your help.
-Mia
<Cheers, J -- >

- Bloated Oscar, Follow-up -
Our Oscar is doing much better! Thanks so much! We thought that he was a goner.
<Ahh, excellent. We so seldom hear back or find out how things went. I'm very happy your Oscar is on the mend. Cheers, J -- >

Super Sensitive Oscar
Every time me or my wife makes changes to the tank, whether it's cleaning algae off the sides, or even at times just entering the room, our Oscar will go to the bottom of the tank and lie on its side until we leave the room. When we leave, it will start swimming around again. We have also witnessed this by just turning on the aquarium light; after about 10mins with the light on, it will begin swimming again. Why is it doing this?
<I have seen this in Oscars that have been living with abusive tank mates, it takes them a little while to regain their courage. For being so big and aggressive they can be really sensitive, he is probably just getting scared. Tell him to take a man pill and start acting like an Oscar is supposed to. Just kidding, but seriously regular tank maintenance, pristine water quality, and a high quality varied diet, will ensure his physical health is taken care of. The aggressive behaviour should come back in time. Try hanging out with him for a while, don't make any sudden movements. You could try associating yourself with his favorite food, sooner or later he will be jumping out of the water to greet you. There is a good article on Oscars here
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/oscars.htm
Best Regards, Gage>

- Oscar Problems -
Sorry, I may have sent this e-mail already, but I wasn't sure if my mailbox was set up correctly...
I have an Oscar that has been sick for about 2 weeks now. I think that I have the same problem as Lisa's e-mail that was posted, "Bloated Oscar cichlid - Epsom salt 7/13/03"
The conversation goes...
"The roundness is huge and has dropped even lower and now there is a clear bubble looking (about 1 1/2") protruding around the anal area.
<hmmm... prolapsed rectum?>
It appears to be from outer tissue, not internal. I am clueless!!!
"
By looking at the attached photos, do you think that my fish has the same disease? (All other symptoms are similar to what she had posted) I cannot find anything else on the internet.
<Well, it's not really a disease but a condition brought on by the foods you have been feeding, and yes it does appear to be the same thing. Do try the Epsom salts and if possible isolate the fish so no one else can pick at it.>
Thanks!
-Mia
<Cheers, J -- >

Upside Down Oscar - 8/22/03
Hi. This is a last ditch effort to save our 5 year old Oscar fish. Approximately 6-8 weeks ago, the Oscar developed a distended belly on one side and was floating on the surface. Taking advice from fishyfarmacy.com, we treated him with Metronidazole for 10 days for Hexamita
<ughhh... this is an all too common mis-applied remedy. I have no idea why folks still recommend this. Hexamita has been shown to be almost non-existent in captive stocks for well over a decade>
and then assuming that swim bladder was a secondary condition, started a course of erythromycin, <unbelievable... erythromycin is a gram-positive antibiotic, and less than 20% of all pathogenic fish bacteria are gram positive. Furthermore, this drug is so outdated (numerous resistant strains) that it boggles the mind why it would be recommended as a first course of treatment>
which we are now on the second consecutive course. We do a 1/3 water change every other day at least and the conditions are good with the exception of very slight level of ammonia, which I am having trouble getting rid of.

The Oscar resides in a 30-gallon tank with one feeder fish from the last batch (yes, I know no more feeder fish) <correcto> who is quite large and healthy now. In the last two to three weeks, we were encourage because the distention of his side subsided, but he is now has smaller still distended area around it's rectum, approximately the size of a golf ball, which is causing him to remain upside down. We were also told by a couple of sources to try giving him frozen peas and/ or earth worms. He seemed to like the peas and was still active while we were feeding those. However, three days ago we gave him an earthworm and now he has sunk to the bottom of the tank, is still upside down (his face is resting on the stones) and is not very responsive. Should we give up hope and euthanize?
<not at all... these fish are incredibly hardy and salvageable. The extended duration of the symptoms and the remission of the size of the lump (likely ruling out cysts/growth) suggests to me that is may not be pathogenic at all. Dose the tank with one rounded tablespoon of Epsom Salt (from your pharmacy) per five gallons of tank water. Dissolve this in a bit of aquarium water first then add. Repeat three days later. If this improves your fish (and it may cure it), then the problem way not likely pathogenic>
If so, what is the best way?
<freezing in a bucket of water if you must... very gentle for this cold-blooded creature>
I've read a lot about the Epsom salt, should we set up a hospital tank and treat him in that or simple do in the 30 gallon tank? Can you help?
<ahhh... :) Yes, you can dose the main tank. Do let us know if it works. Else we may try a broad-spectrum antibiotic cocktail (perhaps Jungle brand "Fungus Eliminator" [ignore the cheesy name]). Anthony>

Upside Down Oscar - Follow-up - 8/23/03
Hello to all the crew. This is a follow-up on a question that Anthony was kind and patient enough to reply to which I would like to first say thank you so much for your advice.
<always welcome>
It is now late Saturday evening and I have been so desperate to help our poor upside down Oscar that I have eagerly been checking for a reply and of course, you do not disappoint!
<Whew!>
I am writing now from my home email address (as opposed to work) and have just a couple more questions, if you don't mind. Sorry if this sounds dumb, but should I be changing the water in the next three to six days (assuming a second dose is necessary?)
<not a dumb question at all... and yes, water changes will be very helpful regardless of the cause of the Oscar's ailment. If pathogenic, it will reduce their numbers by dilution. If this is constipation or blockage (aided by the Epsom salt) it will have a likewise laxative effect. Just be sure to closely match water temps... same if possible, slightly warmer if you must... but never colder with new water>
Also, should I continue to feed him the frozen peas daily or fast him for a bit?
<neither... offer frozen meaty foods instead (plankton, krill, Mysis shrimp) or live earthworms if he'll eat them. Avoid all dense matter (pellets) and fibrous (veggies)>
I seriously hate to euthanize, the thought it simply makes me cry as I have become quite attached, especially in the last few weeks, but I am very concerned about his quality of life. A permanent upside down state on land (I can only imagine) would be terribly uncomfortable... should I assume it's not the same for our Oscar?
<correct... I'm certain he prefers to live anyway you look at it. As long as his appetite is good... carry on and have patience. I really think the Epsom salt will help BTW>
Anyway, thank you again. I have read so many of your FAQ
replies and they are all so informative, but also incredibly compassionate and friendly. Hats off to all of you! Kim : )
<thanks kindly, my dear. Best of luck. Anthony>

RE: Upside Down Oscar 9/9/03
Anthony, Sorry to bug you again, but I did have a couple of questions with regarding to our now sideways Oscar.
<no worries>
As I mentioned previously, he lies in the bottom of the tank until it's time to eat, then he swims like a champ. His appetite is excellent and he is quite an enthusiastic eater (beef heart
and brine shrimp).
<all good and as expected. Many will do this for weeks before recovering fully>
First, should I continue with the Epsom salt treatment every three days or just do regular water changes at this point.
<mostly regular water changes... but some Epsom salt in the water does not hurt at all. Keep a half dose in if you like>
Secondly, is it safe to give him cichlid flakes or sticks for a little variety?
<definitely flakes... easy on the pellets for a while>
Lastly, there is a sole surviving feeder fish in the tank with Oscar who has become quite large, and while I do not see the goldfish bullying our Oscar, he has absolutely no fear is often vying for all the attention. Should we remove goldie from Oscar's tank in favor of a separate goldie bowl?
<I'd leave it in for interest/distraction to the Oscar>
How do we get so attached to these water bound creatures!?! Thanks (once again) in advance for your help. Kindest Regards to you all, Kim Olson :)
<so true :) Have faith and patience... there is a good chance of full recovery, however slow. Best regards, Anthony>

RE: Upside Down 9/10/03
Dear Anthony,
<cheers, Kim>
First! I love you guys, you're so awesome! Thank you!
<always welcome :) >
Now I can move ahead with confidence. Ironically, after I sent this email to you Oscar had very brief recurrence of the swelling in the rectal area. It occurred almost simultaneously with a water change w/the Epsom salt treatment, but happily was gone the next day, so your advice were well timed. Take care. Kindest
regards, Kim : )
<ahh, yes. Despite their hardiness, afflictions of the swim bladder are sensitive and precarious. As mentioned before, it may take some weeks to heal... even months in some cases. As long as your Oscars diet is strong, there is much to be hopeful for. I truly suspect that this one will make a full recovery. Best regards, Anthony>

Oscar Coloring and Activity
When I was younger I had many Oscars and recently I bought a albino tiger Oscar. This Oscar brings me much joy just being in the same room. When I bought it the fish had, and still has, a black outline around its fins and tail. It doesn't look to be harming it but I was wondering if this is normal? I noticed most their other albinos were this way too. Also I think my Oscar may be unhappy/sick, or just not like me. It just chills on the bottom of the tank in the far corner anytime the light is on and I am around, but if I turn the light off sometimes it will come out of hiding and swim around the tank. Any suggestions? Many Thanks, Larry
<Hi Larry, the black edge on the fins is very common in the coloring of Albino Oscars, no worries there. The inactivity may or may not be a problem, I'm sure you are aware that Oscars are messy, so frequent water changes are important to maintain water quality. Poor water quality can lead to lethargy. The lights may make him uncomfortable, he will probably get used to it, but it could take a while. Some floating plants like water sprite, or duckweed are good for filtering the light, and sucking up excess nutrients in the water. Just give him time and good water, and he should be acting like an Oscar in no time. Best Regards, Gage>

Fertilizing Oscar Eggs - 8/15/03
Can Methylene blue be used to fertilize Oscar eggs.
<Hmmm... I'm wondering if you mean to ask if it will prevent fungus from developing on the eggs? If so, yes. I'm assuming you already have a female that laid the eggs, and a male that fertilized them... and now wish to improve the chances for a successful hatch. Anthony>

Fuzzy Eggs
My red tiger Oscar has laid eggs, 2days later the eggs turned into a white cotton-like substance this is the first time they have laid eggs and I don't know what to expect .I am a first time Oscar owner I have had them for a year now. please help Mr. Curious
<The white cotton-like substance, or fuzzy stuff, is most likely a fungus from the infertile eggs, or dirty water, they are rather messy fish. I would use a small siphon tube to suck out the bad eggs and the fungus. If you were to remove the good eggs to a separate tank some Methylene blue could be added to the water to help prevent the fungus. Best of Luck, Gage>

Oscar Eggs
Thanks gage, but it has spread over all the eggs. (unable to save any)
<bummer>
I don't know ! maybe I have 2 females <it's possible> and then again maybe not. as I'm typing I looked over at the tank and they have begun to lip lock all over again and change in color a bit with their mouths open.
<sounds like flirting to me.>
HOPEFULLY NEXT TIME MR. CURIOUS

VERY Sick Oscar
>First, I would like to thank you for taking the time to read this...but I will get right into it.
>>Greetings, you're welcome (it's what we're here for), and we do appreciate brevity.  ;)
>I have 2 Oscars (one white tiger and one classic tiger).  I have had them for maybe 4 months and I have been very active in their environment.  They have been growing very quickly and were very healthy until recently.  Let me give you some background.  The classic tiger has always been the bigger of the two and now is maybe 6 inches head to tail.  This one is very strong and healthy.  The white tiger is maybe 4.5 - 5 inches in length and was always more active but is now very sick.
>>To be expected with the kind of breeding necessary to achieve amelanistic animals.
>I regularly do partial (15%) water changes and test my water very often.  All of my levels are perfect.  They are in a 55 gallon tank for right now, but I'll be getting a larger tank very soon.
At first they were only getting fed feeder fish and frozen bloodworms.
>>Nix the feeders, ASAP.  They're a fantastic way to introduce disease, and NOT at all nutritious, even if you gut-load.  Bloodworms are fine, but not as a staple.
>They were doing fine and growing very rapidly.  Now here is the
problem.  The white tiger almost looks like it's falling apart.  It
shows signs of fin rot but also has a loss of appetite and stays laying in the gravel until it wants to eat.  This has been going on for maybe 3 days.  Today it is swimming but only using one pectoral fin and looks very labored.  The other symptom....its skin almost looks like it's peeling like its loosing its scales.  Aside from this, the Oscar is not exhibiting any other symptoms (as far as erratic behavior, or physical marks).  Like I said, the environment is perfect the water is very stable and the other tiger is very healthy.  My local aquatics expert told me that it may be a nutritional problem and recommended cycle and mixing up their diet as far as greenery, brine, cichlid pellets etc...
and try to stay away from feeder fish.  I love these Oscars like part of the family and would hate to see the white tiger become fatal.  So if you can help me, it would be greatly appreciated.
>>Your local expert is correct.  In nature they would be eating a variety of foods that would rival our own (which is why, in the wild, they're *very* good eating).  This would include bugs, fruit, whatever other wild fish they can find, so on and so forth.  This is what I recommend; get a container, 30 gallons should be sufficient, and remove the white Oscar to it.  This is going to be your hospital tank.  You will need nothing more than a sponge filter and a heater.  If the fish still eats, feed him mealworms, bits of overripe fruit, the cichlid pellets (soak them in a good supplement, we use Selcon for salties), while keeping up with many large water changes.  (Large is on the order of 50% or better.)  He sounds as though he's succumbing to bacterial infection, so I want you to add sea/aquarium salt at the ratio of 1T/gallon.  This will do two things--it will relieve the difference in osmotic pressure, making certain life processes easier, and it will boost the effects of antibiotics.  I want you to start him on a regimen of Melafix (you can also use Maracyn--I or II, but you're going for a broad spectrum antibiotic here).  This is the reason for the large water changes, because any nitrifying bacteria in the sponge filter won't survive antibiotic treatments well.  Keep the container dimly lit, but not dark.  I do hope this gets to you in time, let me know what happens.  Marina

Bloated Oscar cichlid - Epsom salt 7/13/03
Hello crew,
<Howdy Lisa>
This is a distress letter like so many that I read. However, I didn't see anything quite like my albino Oscar's problem.
I raised a pair from fry to 12". They are 6 years old. Suddenly in May, one of them just started fading away. Stopped eating, lethargic, and I treated for everything. No response. The other Oscar was fine. I lost him (I think male). I never really knew. They were always moving gravel, shimmying at each other, and butting heads. What I once thought was two males, may have been F/M. Anyways, I was heart-broken, but I still had one left. Now, over that past three weeks, my remaining Oscar's abdomen started swelling. Seemed fine just started getting round. The roundness is huge and has dropped even lower and now there is a clear bubble looking (about 1 1/2") protruding around the anal area.
<hmmm... prolapsed rectum?>
It appears to be from outer tissue, not internal. I am clueless!!!

I have never seen anything like this in my 20 years of keeping fish. I have read about constipation, but nothing has changed in the diet.
<nothing has to change... large greedy fish on a mostly dry diet, or even a single feeding of dry pellets in which they are overfed or glut quickly can cause blockage. Rather common with large fishes like Oscars and goldfish. Its the reason in part for adding Epsom salt to their foods (the mfg does this). Have you tried adding Epsom salt to the water? Use 1 tablespoon per five gallons and then a half dose again 3 days later. Often reduces bloated bellies and eyes>
Could it be that I have a female and she is egg-bound.
<highly unlikely>
Tumor perhaps, but it developed too fast I think and there is no blood or redness, no puss.
<cysts too... many possibilities. Still... I suspect an internal parasite from live foods (perforated internal organs and causes fluid buildup), or simple blockage>
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
<definitely add the Epsom salt... and do some large water changes (stimulating and improves water quality>
Should I pull my fish out and gently depress to see what is actually in there?
<under no circumstance should you do this>
SHE/HE IS NOT EATING AND HER COLOR IS FADING A BIT. I DON'T KNOW HOW MUCH LONGER SHE CAN SURVIVE. HELP!!!!
History: Pellet food w/occasional live feeders.
<unless you QT the live feeders... do resist this bad/risky habit. Too often they simply bring in disease>
Weekly water changes religiously. 78F Temp. 55 gal tank. Had one bout of ich a couple of years ago. Otherwise, no troubles. Thank you, Lisa
<excellent elsewise... best of luck! Anthony>

Fuzzy Eggs
My red tiger Oscar has laid eggs, 2days later the eggs turned into a white cotton-like substance. This is the first time they have laid eggs and I don't know what to expect .I am a first time Oscar owner I have had them for a year now. please help Mr. Curious
<The white cotton-like substance, or fuzzy stuff, is most likely a fungus from the infertile eggs, or dirty water, they are rather messy fish. I would use a small siphon tube to suck out the bad eggs and the fungus. If you were to remove the good eggs to a separate tank some Methylene blue could be added to the water to help prevent the fungus. Best of Luck, Gage>

Oscar and Myxosoma?
<Hello!>
I have searched the archives and have found very little information about this. From what I have read, I suspect that my Oscar may have this "whirling disease". He has stopped eating for the last week or so. I normally do weekly water changes of about 15%. Because of his symptoms, I have done three water changes during the last week totaling probably about 60% I have been using Melafix for the last few days , but have seen no changes. He is breathing heavy, mouth opening and closing. The other fish in the tank (2 large tinfoil barbs and a Synodontis cat) remain normal.
During the day when I'm not home, I don't suspect that he is doing the whirling thing because there is no water on the floor. At night when the lights are on, he will do the quick, one full turn around action, often splashing water out of the tank. This goes on every few minutes while I'm watching. I have done some research on the web and found that infected fish will often do the whirl when they are startled or fed (connection with the lights?). Almost no info exists on this disease in Oscars, some in reference to Discus, but most are about Salmon and Trout. There are no references to a cure. One site even said to "immediately euthanize the infected fish and all other inhabitants and sanitize the tank...there is no cure!" ...and that was a discus site! Heck, I don't think I'd get too attached to a salmon or a trout, but Oscar is family! Do you think that this is what I'm up against? Do you have any information on this and a
possible cure? I hate seeing this graceful creature suffer like this.
<I am sorry it took me a while to get back with you! I also had problems finding treatments for this disease. This seems to be fairly rare infection in a warm water climate. Myxobolus cerebralis is the parasite you're dealing with, and it seems to find it's host initially in Tubifex worms. I think the following course of action is in order: Quarantine the Oscar in a sanitized tank. By medicating your other fish, you're putting additional stress on their environment. Keep his water in the QT changed as much as you can, and feed him lighter than normal. You may want to contact the nice folks at http://www.whirling-disease.org/ for more suggestions. I have a friend who is a toxicologist for the Department of Fish and Game- I'll forward your email and see if he has treatment ideas as well. Sorry I can't be of more help! Ryan>
Thanks in advance for any assistance you can provide.

- Oscar and Myxosoma? -
I have searched the archives and have found very little information about this. From what I have read, I suspect that my Oscar may have this "whirling disease". He has stopped eating for the last week or so. I normally do weekly water changes of about 15%. Because of his symptoms, I have done three water changes during the last week totaling probably about 60% I have been using Melafix for the last few days, but have seen no changes. He is breathing heavy, mouth opening and closing. The other fish in the tank (2 large tinfoil barbs and a Synodontis cat) remain normal. During the day when I'm not home, I don't suspect that he is doing the whirling thing because there is no water on the floor. At night when the lights are on, he will do the quick, one full turn around action, often splashing water out of the tank. This goes on every few minutes while I'm watching. I have done some research on the web and found that infected fish will often do the whirl when they are startled or fed (connection with the lights?). Almost no info exists on this disease in Oscars, some in reference to Discus, but most are about Salmon and Trout. <This is where it occurs most often... is bad news in aquaculture, in fact is a 'reportable' disease in the US because its spores can live in the mud for up to a year, and even survive being dried out.> There are no references to a cure. <Not really, is a seriously debilitating disease [cartilage is destroyed] and can only be addressed by making sure breeding systems/raceways are cleaned/disinfected.> One site even said to "immediately euthanize the infected fish and all other inhabitants and sanitize the tank...there is no cure!" ...and that was a discus site! Heck, I don't think I'd get too attached to a salmon or a trout, but Oscar is family! Do you think that this is what I'm up against? <A possibility, a co-symptom of whirling disease is a black tail, so you might look for that too.> Do you have any information on this and a possible cure? I hate seeing this graceful creature suffer like this. <I'm sorry I don't have better news. I'd keep up the observation... perhaps Oscar has just learned a new trick and is trying to get your blood pressure up. Let's both hope for the best.>
Thanks in advance for any assistance you can provide.
<Cheers, J -- >

Oscars?
How do you know all that about Oscars men can you give me some more tips to
race some Oscars because I already have three and I want them to grow really
good you know and something more can you give me some pictures of the Oscar
you have. okay <Oscars are very easy to raise....all you have to do is provide a
large aquarium for them (75 gallons to start) feed them sparingly and do small
frequent water changes. And choose their tank mates wisely. Whatever you do, don't
feed your Oscars feeder goldfish or feeder fish. You would be surprised how many
diseases the goldfish can give to your precious Oscar. As for the pictures I suggest
you go to www.google.com and do an image search for "Oscars". IanB>

Tiger Oscar problems
Good Afternoon,
<And the same to you! Ryan here>
I have just finished reading several of the letters on your website and learned a lot! <Great! Don't stop there!> I learned that first off my 55 gallon tank is to small for my community (1 tiger Oscar, 1 Pleco, 2 Dempsey.) All have been living together however for over 6 years. <Sounds good.>
The problem I am currently having I have never encountered before. My Oscar which is the
oldest at 6 years old has suddenly developed an unusually large extended abdomen on
both sides of his body. <Sounds like bloat without seeing it. Do you have the resources available to quarantine the fish. What is he eating daily? Is it varied?> If I had to guess I would say that he is constipated. He is
eating everyday like normal and the other fish appear normal. I am planning on moving in the next
week so I was avoiding doing a 25% water change just to have to break the whole tank down
in less than two weeks anyway. <OK...I'd probably do for safe measure.> I have not had a chance to check the water yet, I will do
that today. <Let us know the results...bloat can be correlated to water quality.> I have read some sites that suggest a diet change. <Not a bad idea-> The symptoms appeared about a
week ago. Any suggestions as to what could be wrong with my baby. <Not without more info...change his diet/lessen his food intake. Quarantine him if possible. Test that water, and get back to us. If you can get a digital photo, I'd be happy to take a look and give you my best guess! Take care!>
Michele Cooper

Tiger Oscar Problems
Good Afternoon,
<and the same to you, Michelle. Ryan with you again!>
I have watched my Oscar after 3 days since the 25% water change I made. <Good, observation is the single most important part of this hobby!>
Although one side of him appears to have gone down the other side is still quite distended and he has not been fed in 3 days.<Eek. Keep with it.> The other fish in my tank are eating small cichlid crumbles just fine but he is not interested in eating that. <Have you tried other things? Bloodworms? I would even try live foods at this point, just get something down him.> I have not fed him the cichlid pellets. I read on your website from another letter something about using Epson salt. What do you advise about that? <It can work wonders, but I'm not sure it's the right solution for your problem.> I am unable to send a picture of him at this time. Any other suggestions? Again I will be moving in 2 day and the whole tank will be broke down and setup again. <Moving the tank is going to be a stress in itself- Use this opportunity to quarantine him. I would try the Epsom salts about three days into quarantine if he hasn't improved. Do you notice dark nodules appearing on his scales? Is he swimming in a controlled manner? Watch for signs of Popeye, or swimming in circles. Internal fungal infections can cause fluid in the stomach- not much you can really do. Just give him time, care, patience. -Ryan>
Thanks for your help,
Michele

Keeping Oscar cichlids in the tank
Alrighty kids, long time listener.....first time caller. I have a question and then a little "story." <I'm all ears>
I've had a few different aquariums thru the years and I want to start a new one. My Oscar committed suicide the other evening (hence the "story") but we'll get back to that in a minute. I like the larger fish, so I wanted to put a green Severum, a parrot fish, and an Oscar.....with a Pleco together? <Parrot is the odd fish out> Is this allowed or will they tear each other apart. <Leave out the parrot, and you may keep the piece for a while. You'll need 150 or more gallons to do it, though> Ultimately, I would like to have 3 large fish (could be two of the same fish) and one Pleco living together in perfect harmony (Any thoughts?) <Achievable! It's what we all stride for. A biotopic display is your best chance at peace.> I like fish with character. The four I chose are the ones I like a lot. Once I figure out the fish that can be together, I will get the proper sized tank. Any inkling of info on this matter would be greatly appreciated. <Get them young, hope for the best. Oscars aren't mean spirited, per se, they're just consistently hungry. A pair of Oscars and a large Pleco is going to require a huge commitment on its own...And a killer bioload depending on your filtration> Now onto the story.......My Oscar was about 10" long, so the other day I wake up and come down stairs and what do I see laying on the floor quite a few feet away from my tank!!? That's right, my Oscar. Somehow he knocked the entire hood and light into the aquarium (yea I know, hoods with the light on them are heavy) and then tried to dodge the falling debris and ended up on the floor. <Ouch> Alas, I am saddened.....but what can you do, but to move on and forge ahead.<Too true>
Ergo, starting a new bigger and better tank with latches on the hood, lots of latches, latches with chains hooked to them and then wrapped around.......<Ha! Better not let the Oscars see the combination on your Masterlocked tank! These things happen-To our dismay. I think you'd be more successful with a species tank. If you like fish with personality, check out the Tilapia butterkoferi. Must be housed alone, but it's a great "Bad boy."> I look forward to hearing from you kids. <And we look forward to hearing back from you! Until next time, Ryan>

Open Mouth Albino Oscar
Hi,
<Hello>
One of my Albino Oscar's has been having an open mouth for almost a month now. At first, I thought it was a fighting injury and thought it would go away. However, it does not seem to be going away and is starting to concern me.
<What size tank and how many fish?>
My water parameters seem to be OK (pH ~ 6.7, NH4+ < 1 mg/l, NH3 0.01 mg/l, NO2- < 0.8 mg/l). However I don't test for NO3- though (LFS was out of stock when I got the other kits).
<Actually, your water parameters are not OK at all. NH3 (ammonia), NH4 (ammonium), and NO2 (nitrites) should all be at 0ppm, anything above this is harmful to your fish. Ammonium is less harmful than ammonia but it’s still not desirable in your tank. You need to do water changes to get these levels down to 0 and to keep them there. Once you get them down I think you’ll see an improvement in your fish.>
Would appreciate any experience/advice you may have on this. Thanks in advance & Best Regards, KC Somaratne
<You're welcome! Ronni>

Re: Open Mouth Albino Oscar
Howdy,
Thanks for your input. However, I am not sure how to measure the ammonia, ammonium and nitrite to such precise levels to be able to say it is "0". I use the Sera (GmbH) Test Kits and what they have is a color chart that predicts what the approximate levels are. Well how you interpret it is subjective. They have 5 colors (say 1,2,3,4,5 from better to worse), and mine are usually within 1st - 2nd closer to the 1st. For the nitrite test kit they don't have a zero at all. It starts from < 0.1 mg/l. In their guide if you are at 1st or near 1st they mention the water quality being unquestionable. However for pH, I can be absolutely sure as I am using a pH pen (+/- 0.1 accuracy) for that.
Well I did make mistakes in my previous mail when specifying the levels for each of the substances. The values I quoted are the upper limits of what I've maintained and the ammonia should have been actually "< 0.01 mg/l" (NOT "0.01 mg/l", as I mentioned). The average values for the last month would be pH 6.7, ammonium < 0.3 mg/l, ammonia < 0.002 mg/l, nitrite < 0.3 mg/l. The values I quoted earlier were including the occasional spikes (mainly due to occasional over-feeding). Well my tank is a 55 gal with an Eheim Pro II 2026 external filter and a medium sized gravel substrate with a few Amazon swords planted in a corner. I have two Oscars (both ~ 3 in), two knife fish (both ~ 4 in) and a silver aro (~ 9 in) and one Pleco (~3 in). Hope this is helpful in trying to identify the situation. Actually, one more thing I forgot to mention in the earlier mail. The gaping open mouth of this Oscar almost looks as if there's as jaw dislocation. One side of his mouths underside also has a visible bent mark. Thanks again in advance & Best Regards, KC.
<OK, this isn’t quite as worrisome then but I would recommend getting some new kits that give more detailed readings. That way you know without a doubt on the water quality. The open mouth of the Oscar may indeed be an injury from a fight (as you originally thought) and it may not ever close. If it was a break or a dislocation that healed incorrectly then it will always appear gaping. As long as the fish is able to eat and does not show signs of distress I wouldn’t worry about it. Ronni>

What size tank do I need?
Hi, last year I bought a 44 gallon tank, 2 red bellied Pacu, and 2 Oscars (1 tiger and 1 red) all from PetSmart. I was told that they could live happily together in that tank, but now they are all huge and seem very sad about their small living area! One Pacu is 12 inches, the other is 10, my red Oscar is 6 inches, and my tiger Oscar is 9 inches. I buy all of my supplies at PetSmart, but no longer trust the advice given by the employees there! Could you please send me an e-mail telling me the appropriate size tank I should buy for my babies?!?!
<I hate to be the bearer of bad news but to comfortable hold these 4 fish when they are full grown you are going to need at least a 300-400 gallon tank and even that is going to really be pushing the limits. The Pacus can reach sizes of about 3 1/2 feet long each and the Oscars can reach about 18 inches each. Ronni>

Oscars (spawning, rearing)
I emailed u before about my tanks. my question for you though is that my Oscars just had there first spawning in the Trigon 350 and I am a little unsure if to leave them in there as there is a plec and a catfish in the tank.
<If this is the first or second, third spawning, do leave them all be as they are now... too traumatic to be moving any, all fishes, young around. And this tank is big enough to allow the "plec and catfish" to get out of the Oscars way... and run away. In a few spawns, I would utilize an easy to remove spawning medium (like a large clay flower pot, piece of slanted slate... and remove this to a rearing tank... Do start studying up about these affairs, planning on space to raise whatever number of young you think you might want... raising foods for them... Bob Fenner>
do u think I should set up another tank or leave them with their proud folks any help would be much appreciated
Alex

Longed Finned Albino Oscars
Sir, PLEASE HELP ME!!! I have two Longed Finned Albino Oscars in a four foot tank. The larger of the two is about 14 inches long, the smaller is about 12 inches. I believe that they are about 2.5 years old and we hope that are a breedable pair.
<Do keep your eyes on them... this is a very small tank for such mature specimens and things can go sideways quick should they start fighting>
I have seen lip locking and some very industrious rock cleaning. The rock is a flat piece of slate. The larger fish does occasionally move small amounts of gravel. The smaller of the two Oscars laid eggs approx 12 months ago so I know that I have at least one female. The other fish showed no signs of interest.
I feed them mainly with barramundi pellets and live fish and occasionally crayfish. I am disappointed that they have not bred. Could you offer any suggestions to push along the process? e.g. water temperature, PH level, hardness, water quality, water changes.
Thank you for you time, Brad.
<It's possible you have two females... and there is a hard fact I must convey. In order to keep the price and availability of these hybrids controlled, the folks who produce them in the Far East try to sterilize them (with high temperature, chemicals)... so breeding pairs outside the area are exceedingly rare. Care is per the "regular" Oscar, Astronotus ocellatus: pH range: 6.0 - 8.0; dH range: 5.0 - 19.0 temp. 22-25 C. Best to condition pairs, keep together, with large, regular water changes. Bob Fenner>

Rare Spawning Oscars
please could you answer a couple of questions for me. firstly is it ok to have my 2 Oscars in a 350 L tank?
<Yes, certainly to both>
how many could I have?
<Two would be a good number for once they're about full size>
secondly in my 4 foot tank is that big enough for a Volitans and a Odonus niger?
<Should be... just assure the Lion isn't large enough to swallow the Trigger when the latter is small, and that the Trigger doesn't harass, deprive the Lion of food when it is larger>
the tank holds about 210 L both English litres the marine tank is run by a Fluval 303 and an AMiracle trickle filter and also another Fluval with a uv sterilizer attached to it.
thanks for your help
Alex
<Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner>

Tiger Oscar Question
How's it goin??
<Fine>
I have an almost full sized tiger Oscar that has developed some strange
marks on its head. At first I though he had just hit something in the tank
because it looks almost as if a shallow chunk of skin is missing. Well this
continued to spread, he now has these patches in several spots on his head.
Any ideas???
<Unfortunately yes. This does sound like a case of HLLE (Head and Lateral Line Erosion), a nutritional disease for the most part. Please read carefully about others problems, responses here: http://WetWebMedia.Com/cichlidfaqs.htm
and follow the links, FAQs suggested to them on our site. You want to develop a plan now to halt this ugly erosive condition. Bob Fenner>
thanks
Kyle

HLLE, Oscars, Etiology, Cures
Hi Robert...
<Hello>
I am sure with the volume of mail that you receive, you don't recall who I am.
I had the two gold Oscars that had HLLE.

Though I followed everything that was explained to do, tonight I lost one
of them.
For some reason, this one just did not respond to anything I did. The other
seems to be at least remaining the same, if not slowly healing, it is
difficult to tell.
I have some generic questions that I have found no answer to.
Is HLLE an actual disease, a skin condition, a bacteria, or most
importantly, contagious?
<There are a few theories as to root causes of HLLE... most favor nutritional deficiency syndromes (mainly vitamins, iodide/ine)... some suggest protozoan involvement (esp. Hexamita spp.), others stray electrical potential (sellers of grounding probes), general "poor water quality"... Myself? I believe the first is a principal cause with all others being contributory. Please read through "the three sets of factors that determine health" piece here: http://WetWebMedia.Com/mardisease.htm
For a "more rounded" view/glance of what goes on in the real universe>
Everything I've read says that it cropped up about 15 years or so ago, and
the likely hood of the causative action being Hexamita is slim.
<Was about way before this time... know because I was there...>
As this is what killed one of my Oscars, I would like to know more about
what it actually is.

You spent a great deal of time working with me on fixing this problem, and
I truly do appreciate it.
<An honor to help>
One just didn't have it in him to make it though. I still have hope for the
second one.
Thank you again
cj.
<Please do read over the HLLE FAQs and environmental disease sections on the Marine Index part of our site (WetWebMedia.com) as well. The same etiology/ies for marine fishes pre-dispose them to this "disease". Bob Fenner>
C.J. Moody

Tiger Oscar Color Changes?
Check the water quality weekly. The only thing that is abnormal is that I cant really seem to get my nitrite level down. 0 - ammonia, 2 ppm nitrite, and around 40 ppm nitrates. I normally do weekly water changes of around 1/3 of the 30 gallon tank.
<Wow, that’s really high on the nitrites but I wonder what’s causing it? Are you testing the water at home? If so, take some water to your LFS and have them test it to see if you possibly have a faulty test kit. If it shows up at 2ppm for them too then you need to do some checking on your filtration. It may not be enough to handle the mess produced by your fish. The high nitrites could indeed be causing the color change for your fish and could easily prove fatal for him, especially at this level. Ronni>

RE: Tiger Oscar Color Changes?
Well I am using the Fluval 404 canister filter on a 30 gallon tank. The
filter is rated for 100 gallon tanks. I am using carbon, pre-filter cotton,
pre-filter ceramic, and bio-max ceramic. Filtration should not be a
problem. I do have a growth in the tank that keeps coming back. A whitish
gunk grows on runner parts in the tank: outflow connector, suction cups for
the filter hoses. I also have a growth of something on a fake plastic magma
formation. I scrub the thing about every two weeks to clean it off.
<Well... a thirty gallon system won't suffice for long for this specimen... and you may just have a "bunk" specimen... there are ones that just don't color up. I would keep trying to expand the food selection to include foods with carotenoids in them (like dried krill) in an attempt to restore your Oscar's color. Bob Fenner>

Re: Oscars - Are they hybrids?
Good morning. I am wondering what "The Crew" thinks about the origin of the aquarium variety of Oscar. I personally believe them to be hybrids.
<No, THE Oscar, Astronotus ocellatus used in the hobby and as food fishes are not hybrids (crosses between species)>
I replied to a post about cichlid hybrids on a forum (with what seems to be some pretty smart people) debating this very issue in order to perhaps stimulate some intellectual thinking. The only posts I received however were, "You are wrong! Oscars are not hybrids." This is a direct quote of what I had written on the forum. "Currently, there are three species of "Oscar", Astronotus crassipinnis, A. ocellatus, and A. orbiculatus. However, back in 1831 when Agassiz discovered the Oscar,
<Described by Louis Agassiz in 1831>
there was only one species, Lobotes ocellatus. All three species were believed to be this one species. When these fish were imported, they were very hard to breed, taking years to reach maturity. Florida fish farms (at that time basically importers) gathered large numbers of these Oscars, regardless of looks, and threw them in outdoor ponds to raise and breed. Since they were all considered one species, there wasn't a problem with this. This is how all of the aquarium strains came to be (red, tiger, silver, gold, albino, and long-finned)."
<Mmm, actually... have been in the hobby and business or ornamental aquatics a good long time (since the mid-1960's) and have visited fish farms (in the orient, this fish and its sport mutations are not bred commercially in the U.S.) and have seen the efforts at selective breeding to make these other varieties... sometimes easier to do starting with crosses... but am pretty sure these are all A. ocellatus>
Does this argument make any real sense? Do I even have an argument? What are your views on this? I am hoping you can shed some light on this for me, so I will know whether to back down on this issue or perhaps push it a little further. Thank you.
<Perhaps a trip to a large/college library and a search for literature on the species, its history. Please see here re: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/litsrchart.htm
Karyotyping ("chromosome mapping") work has likely been done on this "species-complex" that will reveal if the current animal in use is just one or a mix of species.
Press on my friend. Bob Fenner>
- Jason Seymour

Red tiger Oscar (health)
I have a sick red tiger Oscar, I've had him for about ten to twelve years. Three days ago he's been laying on his side at the top of the tank and his body is in a curved position, also his body color is turning darker. Is he dying or is it some other type of sickness.
<Doesn't sound good. What are your water quality measurements telling you? Has their been a sudden drop in pH? Any appreciable ammonia, nitrite? Have you done anything to the system recently? How are the other fishes (if any present) acting? Is your aeration, filtration going? I would immediately do a 25% water change, vacuum the bottom, clean your filter media and see if this improves its behavior. If not, please write back with answers to the above and notes re your set-up and its history. Bob Fenner> Thank you, DTM

- Filtering Oscars -
<Greetings, JasonC here...>
I am in the process of purchasing filters for a 125 gallon Oscar tank. I recently ordered an Ocean Clear 340 and a Mag Drive 1200 pump for the tank. I was hoping that I could get an opinion from you people as to if this would be a good and efficient filtration method for keeping these fish in this size tank. <It's about as efficient as 'you' care to be. Due to the nature of these filters, which is really a high flow canister filter, it will be up to you to change the media regularly. If you don't, it won't be efficient at all. Other than that, it's a fine filter and probably what you need for a tank of this type.>
Thank you for your help.
Brian T. Peek
<Cheers, J -- >

Tank mates for Oscars
I was recently searching for information regarding my Oscars and hit upon a
question on WetWebMedia.Com that someone had asked you that is similar to
the one I am searching for answers on. Here goes:
I have two Oscars which I have been told are a little over a year old; they
are 7-8" long. I have had them for 8-9 months; and after a couple of years
of MANY failed attempts to keep fancy goldfish, I am thrilled that my fish
(Grouch, as in "Oscar the ...." and Della, as in "Oscar de la Renta") are
happy and healthy.
I have recently moved them from a 35 gallon tank to a 65 gallon tank. It is
a custom build tank made by Tenecor which has an excellent built-in
filtration system. The Oscar's only other tank mate at this point is a
"Pleco" that is about 5". It has lived with the Oscars since I got them, and
they don't bother the catfish at all. So, now that my fish are settled in to
their new home, I am wondering if there are any other fish that could
peacefully cohabitate with two half grown Oscars and a Pleco. I've been
searching around on the internet and found several references of Severums or
Jack Dempsey's being recommended as tank mates for Oscars, but I'm not
convinced yet.
Questions:
* Do you think that, given my tank size, its current inhabitants, the
size/age of my fish, I should consider adding any other fish to the mix?
<No... too crowded as is... unfortunately. A person of substantial ambitions as yourself needs more tank space.>
* If so, what are your suggestions?
<We could write the proverbial book here. Many other neotropical cichlids, large characoids, catfishes galore... many more>
* Our local pet store had two types of cichlids which my husband and I
liked. These were Bumblebee cichlids and Jewel cichlids. Would either of
these cohabitate with my Oscars?
<As stated, not in the 65>
* One last question, if you do think that additional fish are in my
future, what is the minimum size fish that you recommend?
<Depends on species... a few to several inches>
Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks much,
Susan

Oscar/Texas cichlid
I have a 3" albino tiger Oscar and a Texas cichlid in a tank together. I was wondering if these are suitable tank mates. I have heard that the Texas cichlid is very mean and might kill the Oscar, but so far it seems to be the opposite. The Texan just kinda hangs around the bottom and sometimes when the Oscar sees him he will chase him for a bit, but quickly loses interest. They don’t seem to mind each other for the most part. They are currently in a 29G but I’m planning to upgrade to a 60G before too long. I’ve heard some people say they are good together, and some say they don’t mix. So I guess I’m a tad confused. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Also I was wondering if you had any info on the Texan because there are barely any on any sites I can find. All I know is that he is the coolest looking freshwater fish I have seen thus far. Thanks for your time.
<As far as water parameters go these fish should be fine together. The chasing you are seeing is most likely because of territorial disputes, especially if the Oscar is larger or was in the tank before you added the Texas. They need to be moved into the larger tank ASAP and once they get large you may find yourself needing an even larger tank to prevent the fighting. To find more webpages on the Texas, do a search for the species name Herichthys cyanoguttatus or the more common name Rio Grande cichlid. Ronni>

Oscar health
>C.J. Moody
>CASA
>Kitsap County Juvenile Court Services
><Is this the same town with the Kitsap County Aquarium Society? I
>used to
>"scan" your periodical back in the seventies for the local SDTFS...
>Bob Fenner>
Yes, it is. I didn't realize that it was such an older club:)
<Yikes... I took over after Guy Jordan's passing back in the early seventies...>
But...
I need help. I mean I really need help. My Golds [Oscars] are looking
really horrible. One of them now looks like his fins are rotting off. They
have that cottony cloudy fungal look to them, but they seem to be rotting
away. He is missing a huge chunk of his side fin, and his tail has *holes*
in it that are getting bigger.
<...!>
I am giving them vitamins, Vitahex, with their food. I am putting about
four drops of the baby vitamins a week into the water.
I found some potassium iodide and followed the directions to the letter.
I removed the heater and bought a new one [the only piece of electrical
equipment in the tank].
I did a 50 percent water change, and then a week later, a quarter tank
water change. I am continuing that schedule of water changes [my magnum is
not working as well as it should].
<What? How long has this been going on? What other livestock affected? What water tests have you been doing?>
What else can I do??? I am really getting stressed over this. I know my
fish is going to die, one at a time, if this continues to degenerate like
this, and at this rate. As it is one will be *horribly* scarred. I can live
with that, but am unsure I can live with all my fish dead.
Is there any thing else I can do? I read about something called Hexamita
"Synonym Octomitus" as being one of the causes of this type of disease.
Is
this true, and if so, what can I do for that?
cj.
<Hexamita (formerly of the genus Octamita) necatrix is almost for sure not the causative mechanism here... Water quality is very likely the prima facie cause. Arresting the necrosis is all-important at this point, as is "solving" by correcting the poor water quality. Again, please answer the above questions... I would be changing massive amounts of water and likely applying furan compounds. Please place any/all terms above in your search engines and study NOW and act NOW to save your livestock. Bob Fenner>

Re: Ongoing Oscar Disease Problem
>I did a 50 percent water change, and then a week later, a quarter
>tank
>water change. I am continuing that schedule of water changes [my
>magnum is
>not working as well as it should].
><What? How long has this been going on? What other livestock
>affected?
>What water tests have you been doing?>
This is the same problem that I have had for the last few months. It just
seems to have gotten really worse over the last week. After I started
treatments with vitamins and stuff, it seemed to improve, then this big
crash all of a sudden.
I haven't done any water tests. To be frank, the expense I am running into
with the vitamins, the new heaters, the other medications, along with
other household expenses is stretching me thin between paychecks.
<I do understand this believe me. Do look for other ways to save money (for instance cheaper pelleted foods, cut beef heart...) for your Oscars, and get test kits for pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate at ASAP. Stop with the treatments for Hexamita... these are quite toxic, and I strongly doubt that they are/have been doing you (or your fishes) any good>
The
water test kit was pricey, as was the *only* bottle of iodide I could find
[it was huge]. Mind you, this is a 150 tank. I will take a sample into my
fish store today and have them test it. I already have new 2 new magnums on
order.
>Is there any thing else I can do? I read about something called
>Hexamita
>"Synonym Octomitus" as being one of the causes of this type of
>disease.
>Is
>this true, and if so, what can I do for that?
><Hexamita (formerly of the genus Octamita) necatrix is almost for
>sure not
>the causative mechanism here... Water quality is very likely the
>prima
>facie cause. Arresting the necrosis is all-important at this point,
>as is
>"solving" by correcting the poor water quality. Again, please answer
>the
>above questions... I would be changing massive amounts of water and
>likely
>applying furan compounds. Please place any/all terms above in your
>search
>engines and study NOW and act NOW to save your livestock. Bob
>Fenner>
Ok, I have no idea what your talking about furan compounds.
I will do so on the search engine right this minute.
<Very good my friend. These are anti-microbials like Nitrofurazone, as you will know. Bob Fenner>
cj.

Re: Ongoing Oscar Disease Problem
>>above questions... I would be changing massive amounts of water and
>>likely
>>applying furan compounds. Please place any/all terms above in your
>>search
>>engines and study NOW and act NOW to save your livestock. Bob
>>Fenner>
>Ok, I have no idea what your talking about furan compounds.
>I will do so on the search engine right this minute.
><Very good my friend. These are anti-microbials like Nitrofurazone,
>as you
>will know. Bob Fenner>
All my searches are turning up using those words are chemical compound
information texts, and chemical/pharmaceutical companies. Nothing that even
relates to aquatics.
<You may need to consult actual books on fish disease.>
The good news is that they still eat ravenously, and there bottom fins are
still out and set straight as if they were healthy...
I will wait and see if you can give me anything else on the furan stuff to
look for, and then will bottle some water and start another water change.
What is so frustrating is that all these fish lived in a 55 gallon, over
crowded, and stayed fairly healthy. A few problems with ick and aggression,
and the start of the HLLE. About two months ago I pulled the money together
to get the 150 tank. The HLLE was just starting when I did the tank change.
<You can, will defeat this problem.... with improvement in water quality, stability of same, and use of vitamins and iodide>
It just seems to keep going downhill.
I used the water from the 55, I did everything as normal as I would have
done if I moved them to any other tank. I have shifted tanks many times
over the years. I thought the 150 would make them happy, alleviate the
overcrowding, and be wonderful. And it seems that it just keeps going
downhill.
I have four other tanks of beautiful healthy fish, not a problem with any
of them, and they are all cichlid tanks with the exception of one which is
Gouramis and tetras.
I am really frustrated and broke [brokenhearted] now.
<Please don't give up. Persistence pays my friend. Bob Fenner, who suggests logging onto one of the cichlid chatforums for consolation and other input.>