|
| |
|
FAQs on Otocinclus Systems
Related Articles: Otocinclus, Loricariids,
Related Catfish FAQs:
Otocinclus 1, Otocinclus 2, &
FAQs on: Otocinclus Identification,
Otocinclus Behavior, Otocinclus
Compatibility, Otocinclus Selection,
Otocinclus
Feeding, Otocinclus Health,
Otocinclus Reproduction, &
Suckermouth Catfishes of South and
Central America, Loricariid
Identification, Loricariid Behavior,
Loricariid Compatibility,
Loricariid Selection,
Loricariid Systems,
Loricariid Feeding,
Loricariid Reproduction,
Loricariid Disease, Catfish:
Identification,
Behavior, Compatibility,
Selection, Systems,
Feeding, Disease,
Reproduction, Algae
Eaters,
|
Soft/er, acidic water... well-established
systems... with green algae (not filamentous) present
|
Otocinclus
Hello Bob, have heard a lot about you from folks at SDMAS here in San Diego.
<Maybe see you later tonight>
My gig is working on breeding marine ornamentals but I saw your article on the
"little suckers" in FAMA and thought I'd use the excuse to introduce
myself. I had never head of the fish until a few months ago, I helped a friend
set up a fresh water planted tank and came across them. Gotta say I love 'em. I
have a small backyard pond (300 gals) and was wondering how they might do in
there. Temps are in the high 50's right now, but I thought as spring came on I
could introduce some, maybe twenty or so. Do you think they could handle So.
Cal. temps year round if acclimated?
<Not all year round, no... could be kept outdoors maybe four, five months out
of the year... but would insert a thermostatic heater... set low... for safety's
sake>
I've got some small Koi and pond comets (no surprise) but what stuns me is that
there are a number of zebra Danios and white clouds that came in with
"feeder" guppies I threw in there during the summer. To my surprise
the guppies died out as the weather got colder in December but the zebras and
white clouds seem fine! I know you're a busy guy but if you have a moment let me
know what you think. ...David
<These are tough little minnows. Have had them outdoors (nearer the coast) in
large enough, weather-sheltered ponds in San Diego as well. Be seeing, chatting
with you. Bob Fenner, WetWebMedia>
Otocinclus Meals
Robert,
<Hi, EJ, Sabrina here tonight, instead>
I read your article on Otocinclus on wetwebmedia.com. Thanks.
<Glad you enjoyed it! I'm sure Bob appreciates the thank you
greatly.>
A couple questions: In your article, you mentioned that they need
wood to survive. What kinds of North American woods are acceptable
for Otocinclus?
<Pretty much anything that's been *very* well cleaned and either sinks on its
own or is weighted will do. Check out your LFS for driftwood
ideas.>
What state should the wood be in? Fresh, weathered, decomposing,
etc.?
<Very well weathered - as in, no bark remaining whatsoever. Wood
that is decomposing poses a problem as it will decay in the tank and make a
genuine mess of things.>
What is a good brand of sinking pellets to feed them?
<Frankly, my personal favorite dry food brand is Hikari, but I rarely (if
ever) use algae wafers to feed my algae munchin' dudes. Algae based
frozen foods (Ocean Nutrition's Formula Two, for one example) are a good
prepared food item to offer.>
Will they feed on other vegetables besides the spinach, Nori, and peas you mentioned?
<Blanched cucumber and/or zucchini, perhaps the soft insides of green
beans.... some years back, my Loricariids always appreciated the asparagus that
I refused to eat as a kid....>
Thank you very much.
<You bet. Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
EJ
Question Re: Oto placement 12/10/06
Hi Tom,
<<Hey, Sean.>>
I have another question for you already.
<<Let's hear it...>>
I was at a major chain pet store today, and much to my surprise, they were
selling Otos (Otocinclus) for $1.99. Since this is the first time I've seen them
in my area, and that price is too good to pass up, I bought 3 (I read on WWM
that they do well in groups). I have 2 tanks, and I can't decide which one they
would do best in.
<<The quarantine tank, Sean. (Being a little silly but I’ll explain.) The store
I buy my fish from, my Otos included, is, literally, a “Mom and Pop” operation
and won’t sell their freshwater animals for the first two weeks after they take
delivery, i.e. they quarantine them all. Saltwater fish are held for four weeks
with cards posted on the tanks showing the dates that the fish arrived at the
store. That said, I can guarantee that this isn’t the case with your Otos. Point
number one. Next, Otos are notorious for being difficult to acclimate. Wonderful
little guys that they are, they’re easily lost early on no doubt due to the
stress of transporting, handling, lack of sufficient food and – the big one –
means of capture. Because of their tiny size and naturally tangled environment,
many (most?) of the Otos that reach the store have been taken in the wild using
cyanide, or other chemicals, to disable them for collection. (I would be
skeptical that ‘tank-raised’ Otos would be going for $1.99 each. Mine were $3.99
each which I thought was a bargain.) The upshot here is that these chemicals can
remain in the internal organs of the fish either shortening their natural
lifespans of about five years or leading to a much, much earlier demise. Darned
hard on the Oto, to be sure, but if one is lost and picked at by another fish,
it, too, may end up with contamination from the chemicals I referred to. Now,
let’s move on to your options.>>
Tank one is a 24g tall/show tank, moderately planted, with a cheap "fizz tab"
CO2 system. Its inhabitants are 4 Opaline Gouramis, Trichogaster trichopterus (2
are the gold variety), 2 paradise fish, Macropodus opercularis, 2 Ramshorn
snails, and one common Pleco, who will be re-homed soon as this tank will be way
too small for him (he's only about 4" right now).
<<Sounds like a good choice, Sean. And, I appreciate your thinking regarding the
upgrade for the Pleco.>>
Tank 2 is a 5g, moderately planted, with no CO2. Its inhabitants are 1 Betta and
3 cherry shrimp.
<<Could be a good option as well but, personally, I like to add some aquarium
salt in with my Betta. Your Otos would “tolerate” the amount of salt I use but I
don’t think they’d appreciate it very much.>>
Both tanks have laterite and gravel substrate, a good amount of driftwood, and a
pH just above 7. Neither tank has much of an algae problem, although both tanks
have small amounts of green "spot" algae.
Now, here's my question: which of these tanks would be a better fit for my Otos?
<<As you may have gathered, Sean, I like the larger tank for your new pets. The
smaller tank would likely work just fine but I’m not a huge fan of keeping
Bettas with other fish. Just me, perhaps. Also, if you do decide to add salt to
your Betta’s tank down the road, and I do recommend this, it probably wouldn’t
sit well with the Otos if they were in the tank.>>
Sean
<<Enjoy your new fish, Sean. Tom>>
What do I do with extra Otocinclus?
5/30/07
I have a 5 gal. Eclipse Corner Tank on my desk at work. There were 2 Betta's
(with a divider) in it, but when I added 3 Oto's from PetSmart soon after the
Betta's died of tail/fin rot. I moved them to separate bowls, and treated them
but they died. I figured it was the addition of the Oto's so I expected them to
die as well. That didn't happen. They cleaned my tank of all algae, and I feared
they would have nothing to eat because it seems they won't eat the algae flakes.
So, I went to my buddy's Cichlid tank and traded all the ornaments (no, I don't
know if this was a smart thing to do or not, but I did it anyway). It seemed,
that this brought new life to the Oto's, as very soon after I spotted little
white things on the front of the tank. When I realized it was fry, I shut off
the filter. I counted about 12 fry stuck the glass. I turned to the internet for
advice and found little. I put a baby sock rubber banded over the filter intake
and turned that back on. Added an air pump for them. I fed them boiled spinach
leaves. Well, a spinach leaf from a coworkers salad stuffed in a cup of hot
water. They ate little holes in that overnight. I do a 50% water change weekly,
and slowly suck out the leftover food every few days to keep the substrate
somewhat clean. Now I keep exchanging plants with my buddy's Cichlid tank for
food and they clean it overnight. There are now 4 or 5 baby's left and they are
half the size of the adults and seem to be doing fine. My question is, what can
I do with these extra Oto's? Can they go in the Cichlid tank? Isn't that too
much hardness for a Cichlid? Or can I support 7 to 8 Oto's in a 5 gal tank?
PetSmart told me that they stock the same sex in the same tank and sell them
that way so this wouldn't happen. Well they screwed up and now I have these new
guy's. What do people do with their new fish when they didn't mean or even know
they would spawn?
<Wow. This is quite an amazing tale! On the one hand, a 5 gallon tank is really
too small for Otocinclus. As a group, Otocinclus are considered "delicate"
because they need good water quality and lots of oxygen. In most community
tanks, they tend to be short lived. But yours are doing well, so well done!
Anyway, as to where to put the Otocinclus. I personally wouldn't mix them with
anything other than, perhaps, South American or West African dwarf cichlids. The
problems are multiple. Firstly, yes, they will not do well in Lake Malawi/Lake
Tanganyika type aquaria. Such hard and alkaline water conditions will not suit
them at all. Secondly, when kept with slow moving things like angelfish and
discus they tend to suck the sides of the bigger fish, scraping off the mucous.
I've seen this in my own tanks, with the Otocinclus rasping away on large
gobies, creating nasty blisters. Aggressive fish like convict cichlids will
simply hammer them to death. So ideally, give them to someone with a peaceful
community of other small fish such as barbs and tetras. PetSmart cannot possibly
sex Otocinclus so their advice there was nonsense. In fact, breeding Otocinclus
is quite uncommon, so you've actually done rather well.>
Tom
<Cheers, Neale>
|
What is the best live plant
for Otocinclus? 4/19/08
What is the best type of live plant for Otocinclus? I have two tanks, one 30
gallon and one 10 gallon. I just added two Otocinclus to the 10 gallon, which is
4 months old and has 8 molly fry, born two months ago. (As they grow, I plan to
move them to a bigger tank and only keep 2 mollies in the 10 gallon with the
Otos.)
I appreciate your site. Thank you!
<Otocinclus spp. couldn't care less about plants, so use whatever you want. What
Otocinclus need is green algae (not diatoms and not hair algae). So provided you
have 2 Watts per gallon upwards, plus lots of surfaces to grow green algae
(rocks, plastic plants, etc.) they will be happy. Otocinclus spp. are not
compatible with Mollies; their water chemistry requirements are entirely
different. Specifically, Mollies more often than not need salt to do well and
definitely need hard, basic water conditions. Salt will stress the Otocinclus,
which need not-too-warm, oxygen rich water that is soft and slightly acidic.
There's no overlap really between what the two species need to do well in the
long term. Otocinclus are extremely demanding, difficult fish, and the vast
majority of specimens die within months of import. Good luck, Neale.>
Re: What is the best live
plant for Otocinclus? 4/19/08
Thank you for your help. I will separate my Otos and my mollies. I am very
new at this, and I obviously have a lot to learn. :)
<Glad to help. There is indeed lots to learn, so buying a book before buying a
fish is always good advice. Remember, the guys in the pet store mostly want to
make sales! Good luck! Neale.>
|
| |
|