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FAQs on Mastacembelid, Spiny Eel
Foods/Feeding/Nutrition
Related Articles: Spiny
Eels, The
truth about spiny eels; A
closer look at these popular but problematic oddballs
by Neale Monks,
Husbandry of the Barred
Spiny Eel,
Macrognathus panacalus
by Marco Lichtenberger,
Related FAQs: Spiny Eels,
Spiny
Eel Identification, Spiny Eel Behavior,
Spiny Eel Compatibility,
Spiny Eel Selection,
Spiny Eel Systems,
Spiny Eel Disease,
Spiny Eel Reproduction, |
Meaty, fresh to live... worms of all sorts irresistible
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Mastacembelus erythrotaenia... beh./fdg... comp. with their
own kind 9/27/09
hey Guys pls help cause I love my eels
Ok. It's been a year now since I had my fire eels in a 65g tank(by the
end of the month I will move them to my newly built 400g tank in my apt)
The bigger one(around 16'' is thriving in my tank and he eats well e.t.c
and has grown a lot since I bought him. As for my second one, it's a bit
smaller(around 14'' and thinner) has stop eating earthworms or shrimps
from my hand . It's been 3 weeks since he was eating from my hands and
generally since then he's been acting very strange and I hereby fear the
worst. He hasn't eaten anything for 3 weeks now and has started to get
thinner, the food goes in front of him and he's scared and won't even
smell it and last but not least he's started doing some speed laps
around the tank and sometimes he even crashes on the tanks walls or the
driftwood e.t.c. No visible fungus or fin rot or anything. On the
outside he seems quite healthy. What can I do to save my little buddy?
Any suggestions on what he may be having fellas? Please help me...:o(
<Greetings. The short answer is that the larger Spiny Eels of the genus
Mastacembelus are rarely sociable (unlike their smaller, more gregarious
Macrognathus relatives) and it's entirely possible the bigger of your
specimens is bullying the smaller. Once moved to a larger aquarium, this
problem may solve itself, especially if each Spiny Eel has a suitable
home, such as a clay pipe, at opposite ends of the aquarium. But I
wouldn't bank on this being the case! Mastacembelus erythrotaenia is,
like all Spiny Eels, sensitive to bacterial infections for reasons not
altogether clear.
Scratches and other types of physical damage often serve as starting
points of such infections. Gravel, as opposed to sand, substrates seem
to exacerbate this when the Spiny Eels are small. The addition of a
small amount of tonic salt to the water apparently helps; Baensch
recommends 1-2 level teaspoons per 2.5 US gallons. If you suspect a
bacterial infection, prompt treatment with an antibiotic such as
Erythromycin may be helpful. Do read here for more:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWsubwebindex/spinyeelsmonk.htm
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Mastacembelus erythrotaenia 9/27/09
Thank you so much for you super prompt i really appreciate it. As i said
, no visible scratches or signs on the boy, last night i put an
earthwork wiggling in front of his nose and he didn't even pay
attention!
<This is why I suspect the problem might be psychological rather than
merely physiological. Move the smaller Spiny Eel into another aquarium,
and see if it starts feeding again.>
He just went away. I started today some MARACYN II treatment from Mardel
because i can only suspect internal parasites or infection. Is the
Maracyn II ok for this kind of treatment?
<I honestly don't think the problem is bacterial. If there aren't any
symptoms of bacterial infection, then there is no particular reason to
add an antibiotic.>
Thank you guys you're doing an excellent type of work here, i really
admire you guys!
<Kind of you to say so. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Mastacembelus erythrotaenia 9/29/2009
What are the symptoms of a bacterial infection by the way if i may
ask?:o)
<On Spiny Eels, the most common signs are first excessive amounts of
white mucous on the skin, then bloody sores on the skin and fins,
lethargy, and then eventually death. Spiny Eels can of course get the
other bacterial problems that other fish get: Finrot, Columnaris,
Dropsy, etc.>
And as for the eels living together, it's been 7 months now since i got
them and they never had a problem or bite one another, or chase or
whatever.
<Sure... when they're young, they're gregarious. Once sexually mature,
that's when the problems begin. Much like any other territorial fish.>
And what about the speed laps around the tank?
<Certainly a possibility.>
I was watching the whole thing, the bigger eel was in it's pipe and the
smaller one was acting like crazy hitting the tanks walls and the
driftwood e.t.c. That why i am a bit fuzzed.
<I'm not phased at all. Mastacembelus erythrotaenia is well known to be
intolerant of its own species under aquarium conditions.>
Sorry for bothering you guys...
<Cheers, Neale.>
Mastacembelus erythrotaenia; diet; health - 7/16/09
Hi
<Hello,>
I am starting to get really worried about my fire eel. He has always
loved prawns as his main diet, rarely touching anything else.
<Prawns contain a lot of thiaminase; over time, this causes Vitamin B1
deficiency. Use prawns only once or twice per week, and handsomely
outweigh them with foods that don't contain thiaminase, such as
earthworms.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_6/volume_6_1/thiaminase.htm
>
Water conditions are perfect, I change at least 25% once a week and he
has always been active and seemed happy, never tried to escape or have
any problem with tank mates. 6 days ago he stopped eating and wont eat
anything I try to temp him with (blood worm, river shrimp, muscle,
prawn).
<Oh dear. Earthworms are, without fail, the things Spiny Eels enjoy. So
try them. Offer them at night, or else using long forceps, so other fish
can't steal them.>
I noticed a couple of days ago a small white rotten looking patch at the
end of his tail and have treated the tank with ESHA 2000. He has become
a bit more active than he was initially ( when I first noticed he
wouldn't eat, he stopped coming out of his tunnel) but is acting strange
and still wont eat. He used to investigate everything, now he is just
sitting on the bottom, or as I saw earlier with his head at the top and
balancing on his tail at the bottom (not for O2 as there are 2 air
stones in the tank with more than enough O2).
<Spiny Eels are tricky fish, and if given a monotonous diet, they are
prone to malnutrition and hunger strikes. There's also the fact
bacterial infections seem to affect them more quickly than most other
freshwater fish. You're wise to treat what might be a bacterial
infection promptly; in the meantime, review the basics, and if needs be,
starve the fish until it takes some other types of food.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/spinyeelsmonk.htm
Baensch recommends adding a little salt; 2 to 4 teaspoons per 5 gallons.
While this isn't something you'd want to do all the time, it might well
be helpful in this situation as it helps detoxify nitrate and nitrite.>
He is about 35 cm long and in a 50 gal tank. I have had him about 6
months.
Please give me some advice.
Kristal
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Mastacembelus
erythrotaenia; diet; health - 7/16/09
thanks for your quick response. I will try earthworms to temp him back
to eating.
<Good.>
With regards to salt, I had heard that its not advised to put any salt
in with Corydoras. I have a sailfin Pleco, 2 gold nugget Plecos, 6 clown
loaches, 7 bronze Corydoras, a Firemouth cichlid, 2 silver sharks, a
pair of dwarf Gourami and a Siamese fighter. Would the salt still be a
good option as everyone else is happy and healthy?
<This dose of salt is harmless as a short-term therapy. In any event,
Mastacembelus erythrotaenia shouldn't be kept with most of these fishes.
The Betta is live food, as is the Dwarf Gourami. Corydoras are choking
hazards. Silver Sharks and Clown Loaches can be good companions, given
sufficient space and assuming they're big enough not to be eaten.
Mastacembelus erythrotaenia is a darn big fish when mature, and a
voracious predator. Suggest you go through your fish, and sort out
accordingly.>
Thanks.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Mastacembelus
erythrotaenia; diet; health – 08/04/09
Hi, thanks for your advice previously. Thankfully, after more than 2
weeks of not eating, Mr eel started to eat again. But only prawns.
<I see.>
What is the best way to get him to try new food? we have tried trick him
with muscle in-between bits of prawn. He eats it initially then spits it
out! He wont touch any dried foods, not that i thought he would.
<Indeed.>
There isn't really anywhere for me to dig up worms close by.
<Any bait shops? They usually sell earthworms ("night crawlers") and you
can even buy worm farms from about £30 upwards that turn the stuff you
put into the green recycling bin into earthworms. These are clean, don't
smell, and are small enough to fit easily on a patio, in a shed, or
somewhere else cool and dry.>
And he ate river shrimps once when we first got him, but every other
time he ignores them. Even when they land on his nose!
<How odd!>
I am eager to try as you said prawns are not a great diet for him.
<Have you tried hand feeding? Spiny Eels are famously willing to feed
this way, once settled. Long forceps help, and initially at least, use
foods he takes, such as prawns. Once he gets used to feeding this way,
you might try other foods, such as strips of squid, lancefish (which you
get from fish shops) and of course earthworms. Cheers, Neale.>
Fire eel, fdg., hlth. 6/6/09
Hello my name is Crystal
<Hello,>
i have owned my pride and joy(fire eel) for almost 2 years not and she
is doing great with in the last 2 - 3 weeks she has been getting really
picky with food (which i know is normal)
<Indeed; but few Spiny Eels resist tasty, juicy earthworms! So if you
have an "organic" garden (one where sprays aren't used) go collect some
earthworms from under stones, flower pots and rotting wood! Leave your
Spiny Eel to starve for a couple days, and then introduce one or two
live earthworms at dinner time.>
and she's not nearly as active as she normally is she is in a 90 gal
tank but today i noticed that she has a red sore or bump on her cheek/
mouth
<Could well be a bacterial infection following physical damage, e.g.,
from trying to dig into gravel or from fighting with another fish. Treat
with an antibiotic such as Maracyn promptly to prevent further
problems.>
i have salt all ready in the tank and the normal chemicals with the
right levels for everything
<A bit concerned you mention salt, since this species doesn't really
need salt. But in any case, review water chemistry and water quality:
you want moderately hard water, an approximately neutral pH, 0 ammonia,
and 0 nitrite. There's no real need to add salt, since these fish don't
come from brackish water habitats.>
just wondering if this maybe an injury or could it be a parasite as i
have never have seen anything like this
<Yes, they can get parasites, but the usual way this happens is when
people make the BIG mistake of feeding them feeder fish. Spiny eels
certainly don't need live fish in their diet, and goldfish and minnows
would be doubly bad because these are rich in fat and thiaminase. Used
over the long term, goldfish and minnows can cause major, probably
irreversible, problems. So, assuming you haven't used feeder fish, then
parasites are probably not an issue. If you've used feeder fish, then
almost anything could be wrong, and only a vet can tell you precisely
what the matter is.
In case I'm not making my point clear, aquarists should not use feeder
fish they've purchased from pet stores or bait shops, and if they must
use them for obligate piscivores (which your eels aren't) then those
feeder fish need to be home-bred and gut-loaded members of a "non toxic"
species, such as Mollies or Killifish.>
thank you and just looking for a response on if i should worry thank you
hope to here from you soon
Crystal & Jess
<Do see more about Spiny Eels, here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/spinyeelsmonk.htm
Cheers, Neale.>
Striped peacock eel – 09/04/08
Hey,
<Hello.>
My name is Brodie, I just purchased a
striped peacock eel from my local fish store. My water in my 20 gallon
long tank is sitting at about 78-79 degrees, and it has a rock cave,
some plants, and a piece of drift wood. So from my research the tank has
plenty of the dark hiding spaces striped peacock eels prefer.
<Okay. What about the substrate? Spiny
eels need sand or small rounded gravel. In addition it would be good if
the rocks had no sharp edges.>
After I acclimated him to the water he
immediately dove down into the rocks, which I read would happen if the
tank is too cold,
<…no…>
but it's at the recommended
temperature. Also he looks to be a little under nourished, I think the
store was feeding them fish flakes. I read I can force feed him blood
worms through an eye dropper, and this will replenish his health into a
sociable tank mate.
<I would not do that… too much stress.>
In the tank as well are 5 tiger barbs
which I read do fairly well with the striped peacock eel.
<This tank will be overstocked in my
opinion once your fish are grown.>
I would like to know if you think him
burring himself in the rocks right away is a reaction to being in a new
tank,
<Yes.>
the other fish, or because he isn't
healthy from the pet store? Also I would like to know if the force
feeding is a good idea? If not, what might I try to get the little guy
up and running like he is supposed to act?
<As food try feeding at night when the
barbs are asleep and the eel feels more safe. In the beginning they are
almost always nocturnal, which can change with time and patience.
Bloodworms and live earthworms (nightcrawlers) of adequate from a toxin
free garden would be a good choice of food items to start with. The
small earthworms can be fed with tweezers, just don’t
stress the animal too much. Please read
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWsubwebindex/matacembelids.htm (including
the linked FAQs on top of this page) and
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWsubwebindex/spinyeelsmonk.htm and
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_4/V4I3/Spiny_Eels/Spiny%20Eels.htm.>
Thanks for your help.
<Welcome. Marco.>
Re: Striped Peacock Eel 9/6/08
Thanks for the
information.
<Welcome.>
I have the small round gravel in the
tank, and the eel went right after the blood worm I cut for him.
<Glad to hear. I guess the feeding issue is solved.>
I have an old 29
gallon tank I can set up for the eel or the tiger barbs when
overcrowding due to the growth of the fish occurs.
<Very good. Have
fun with your new pet. Marco.>
Fire eel not eating.
01/08/2008
I recently acquired a 8 inch fire eel from the LFS.
<Ah, a beautiful fish. But not easy to keep; indeed, one of the most challenging
of all the freshwater fishes. Make sure you read the several articles we have on
this family of fish here at WWM, including:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/matacembelids.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_4/V4I3/Spiny_Eels/Spiny%20Eels.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/spinyeelsmonk.htm
And then follow the links to related articles.>
I've had it about 4 weeks now and as far as im aware it hasn't eaten since I
brought it home.
<Unfortunately this is very common. There are several issues behind this. The
first is that these fish are easily spooked. Stick them in a new tank,
especially one with busy or aggressive fish, and they get scared. Small
specimens, such as yours, are obligate burrowers, and must be kept in tanks with
a sandy or muddy substrate; a lot of people try to keep them in tanks with
gravel, but they eventually end up with dead Spiny Eels. So make sure you are
using a fine, lime-free sand such as silica sand. Finally, Spiny Eels are fussy
feeders. Wild fish basically only take live food, and that needs to be things
like river shrimps and earthworms. Do not use feeder fish! Spiny Eels are simply
far too sensitive to bacterial infections.>
Water param.s are fine.
<Define "fine". For Spiny Eels, water chemistry admittedly isn't critical, but
you do want to avoid very acidic or very basic conditions. Neutral, moderately
hard water is likely the idea. Historically people have kept Spiny Eels in
slightly brackish water, but they certainly don't need salt. What salt might
help with is in inhibiting protozoal and fungal infections.>
Ammonia and nitrites are both at 0 and nitrates on the tank its in stay below
10ppm. Water is a steady 80.
<A little on the warm side; unless you have specific reasons to do otherwise,
aim for 25C/77F so you get as much oxygen in the water as possible without
compromising the health of the fish.>
I've tried feeding him Frozen brine, Mysis shrimp, Krill, Bloodworms, White
worms, HBH super soft and HBH shrimp pellets, Hikari carnivore pellets, and live
earthworms.
<Earthworms are good, and should be taken. You might also try live river shrimp
and clean (i.e., home-bred) livebearer fry.>
He sometimes sniffs at the food but is never observed eating anything at all.
<He will not feed during the day time, remember that. Spiny Eels are nocturnal
predators. They also feed almost entirely by rooting about in the sand (that's
what their special snout is for). So if you put a small quantity of bloodworms
or earthworms in the tank at night, he will eat them if left alone. Obviously,
you CANNOT keep spiny eels alongside catfish or loaches -- they will eat the
food first! The Spiny Eel should be kept as the ONLY bottom feeder and the ONLY
nocturnal fish in ANY community. This point cannot be stressed strongly enough.
Virtually all Spiny Eel deaths come from three things: starvation, leaping out
the tank, and bacterial skin infections caused by gravel.>
Im at wits end because I know its not going to be much longer before he croaks
from starvation.
<I agree, you are in a critical situation. But follow these rules and read those
articles and you'll be doing all the right things.>
Any help or advice tips would be greatly appreciated.
<Good luck, Neale.>
Spiny eel system and food
– 05/31/07
Hi there! I found your site yesterday and have read about
every page in it by now! Very informative, thank you!
<Hi Tori. I’m glad you like the site. You really read every
page? By the way, it's good you collect information before
buying.>
My sister knows how much I love fish and so for my birthday gave
me a five gallon tank with a filter and a picture of a spiny eel
that she wanted to get me. I've just gotten around to setting up
the tank (it's been running for two days now, with Watersafe)
and I just added three artificial plants (is this okay since
they will uproot them anyways?) and a cave structure, but when I
asked about the fish themselves I was very disappointed to hear
that they've only been fed normal fish flakes and been left to
eat scraps that fall to the bottom, and most of the eels in the
tank seem very lethargic. <Probably starving.>
Are these eels likely to survive very long? <When they eat
again: yes. If you think about buying one insist that you want
to see them eat. Probably they’ll only eat live food, if you are
lucky they’ll eat frozen food. If they do not eat, have skin
diseases or stay lethargic leave them there.>
Are they worth getting or should I look around for better cared
for eels? Also, if I get them, will they take right away to food
like freeze-dried bloodworms and such?
<You’ll probably have to start with living worms and hope that
they start accepting frozen food one day. Most of mine never
did. Freeze-dried food and flakes will not be eaten by most
spiny eels.>
I haven't found live worms anywhere yet, except fishing worms,
but I'm a little afraid of the bacteria that may be on them,
especially just starting out. <Earthworms or nightcrawlers from
toxin safe soil are ok, too.> The pet stores around here seem to
carry only freeze dried worms, but what is the best? (the eels
are small, less than 5 inches). <All dried foods are most often
not eaten by spiny eels.>
Also, since it's a small tank (5 gallons), is it going to be too
crowded with more than one eel or one eel and another fish or
two? It'd be nice to have something to look at while my eel is
hiding.
<First you need to know exactly what spiny eel species you are
talking about. Some only reach 5 inches, others 3 feet. For even
the smallest species I consider 15 gallons per specimen is the
minimum. See
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/matacembelids.htm and
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_4/V4I3/SpinyEels/Spiny%20Eels.htm
for more information. If you want to use the 5 gallon tank, it’d
be best to consider some other fish species.>
Thanks so much! Tori.
<You are welcome. Marco.>
Feeding A Fire Eel 11/28/06
Hi, my name is Joe St. Georges and first of all I want to say that your site
has helped me greatly.
<Thank you for your kind words.>
I have a 75 gallon tank with a 7" or 8" fire eel, a 5" clown knife (I know I
will have to remove him once he grows a little bigger) 2 2" silver dollars, 2 2"
gouramis and a 5" short billed gar, and a few mini guppies for the knife and the
gar (hopefully one day the eel!!). I put two half drainage pipes in there,
which the eels love to stay between them. My question is that the gourami's are
eating the blood worms that I feed the eel
(I don't really ever see the eel eat but he stays plump). I have also tried
brine shrimp which he does not eat because they float and also red wigglers
which burry themselves far under the gravel and I think out of reach for the
eel. Is there anything else he might eat or a way of feeding him that others
will not compete for. I wanted to try ghost shrimp but and having a hard time
finding them anywhere in Knoxville TN. Any suggestions or advice would be
great. Thank you Very Much, Joe St. Georges
<Get some plastic feeder tongs used to feed reptiles. Put a small earthworm in
the end of the tongs and slowly place the worm in front of the eel. The eel will
be attracted to the worm and eat out of the tongs. These eels become very
friendly and will take all kinds of food out of your hands. After awhile he will
come to the surface when you approach the tank to let you know he wants to be
fed. They can get up to 4 feet long!-Chuck>
Starving Eel 9/2/06
Hi,
<Hi Gillian, Pufferpunk here>
I have a problem with my yellow spiny eel. (At least that's the name it was
sold to me as.) It's very small, only about 2.5 inches. I've had it for
about 5 months. I've had no problems up until now. I have read that some
people have problems with eels not eating and as a result, they lose them
within a few weeks.
<True but it can take longer sometime, for an animal to slowly starve to
death.>
I figured that wasn't a problem since my eel has been around so long and
although I haven't seen him eat (but I do think I've seen
him darting at daphnia), he's looked well fed. Just yesterday I noticed
that he looked terrible. He is very thin and seems
to have no strength. I moved him into a smaller tank by himself over night
with food.
<Most spiney eels only eat live food. Mostly blackworms. That's what their
long nose is for--to scrounge the substrate for worms.>
I was a little worried that maybe some of his tank mates have been stealing
all his food and that might have been the cause of the problem (he's in with
3 neons, a ghost shrimp and a panda Cory cat). However, he didn't seem to
eat any of the food offered to him. I put him back in the tank with the
others and he still swims around, but he still seems weak, unable to burrow
and he'll stop swimming in funny positions, like on his side. The problem
is that I don't know what to do. If he's not eating, I'm not sure how to
make him eat. If it's some kind of infection, I'm not sure what it is. His
fins, colour and skin all seem fine. He just seems unbelievably thin and
his gills look red (although I'm really not sure if his gills seem red
because he's so thin or if it's some kind of infection). The water
chemistry's a little off, which I plan on fixing right away with water
exchanges, and I've added a little bit of salt (one tbs/ 5 gallons).
<Weekly water changes are necessary to keep the water clean & livable.>
I'm not sure if I should try a salt treatment. Or if I should try something
like Melafix (even though I'm aware that he doesn't seem to have any of the
symptoms Melafix says it treats). I'm not sure how much longer the fish
will last. Please help.
<Neither can hurt. I'd try offering live worms. ~PP>
Thanks
Gillian
Is my eel retarded or just lazy? Mastacembelid fdg. 8/2/06
I know eels are near-sighted, but how about retarded?
<Some appear to do things that are none too bright...>
Unless he is doing all his eating when it's pitch black, he's not
eating. Yes, I know they are nocturnal.
<Mmm, not altogether...>
By the way, he is a fire eel.
<Most mastacembelids are to a degree active by day>
The first few days he ate like a madman. Now, he takes the krill in his
mouth, "chews" for a couple seconds, then spits it out, maybe does it a
second time, and then he lets it float away.
<... may no longer be "so hot" for krill...>
I thought maybe the pieces are too big so I tried smaller pieces, like an
1/8 of an inch, and it's the same thing. I've got live black worms too.
<Irresistible>
I have no clue if he's eating those, but at least the Corys and the clown
loaches are.
<Oh yes!>
He seems real interested when I put them in the water, but I haven't seen
him eat any before they bury themselves. He's making me crazy.
The eel is about 8 inches long and my water parameters have been corrected
to less than 20 ppm nitrate, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrate, 6.8 pH and kH of 2.
<Looks good>
Any suggestions or guidelines for eel behavior are appreciated. I've heard
they can go on hunger strikes. I just don't know why he ate so well the
first few days and now it's like trying to feed a spoiled 2 year old child.
Sincerely,
Steve
<Have recently "split up" the Spiny Eel FAQs... Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/matacembelids.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Hello (Eel? Food, Freshwater?)
We live in Iceland, and just purchased a few fish, and an Eel. My questions
is, will the eel eat regular fish food? We tried asking the lady who owns
the place, but being American over here is a slight problem :) any help
would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Nicole Hatfield
<Mmm, depends on what you mean by "regular fish food" and what sort of Eel
this is. Please give a read over our site: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ or
use the Google search tool at the bottom of the homepage there... re this
issue... Is it a freshwater eel? Do you know more specifically what kind? I
have been to Iceland to visit... the local folks take a while to "warm" to
new folks, but are genuine, honest people, as you will see. Bob Fenner>
Re: Eel Feeding
<Anthony Calfo with the follow up, my friend>
Hey, I couldn't get a good pic of him.....I haven't seen him eat any of the
flake food, but not exactly sure where to get more meaty food for him
either....at least, not around here.
<fresh seafood if unprocessed will be quite fine from the grocery store. Frozen
is better than fresh for safety (pathogen transmission). Squid/Calamari is
popular fare for most eels. Shell-on shrimp (even better with legs, head and
innards) is also an excellent source of protein and good for keeping teeth worn.
Resist fatty (oil) fishes for tank water quality. As a rule, crustacea are
better fed to eels than fishes. And whole fishes (guts and head) are better than
fillets.>
I do however think he helped to kill our algae eater. Not positive about that
though.
<wouldn't be a surprise>
Will do what I can, and will try to find a pic of him tomorrow. Thanks again for
all your help. Nicole Hatfield
<do look through the photo archives of eels on www.fishbase.org if a picture is
not convenient for you. Best regards, Anthony>
Re: hello, Iceland Eel
Yes, I do love it here, but still not sure about the people :) and yes, all
of her fish are freshwater fish. He is probably 2 inches long, and all brown in
color. The pet shop owner gave me the flake fish food. She said it was for all
types of fish. I have no idea what kind of eel he is. And I can't find a pic of
him anywhere. I wasn't sure who else to ask, and from your website, you looked
to be my man. If you want, I can catch him, and take a pic with our digital, if
that will help any. Let me know, and thanks for all your help :)
Nicole Hatfield
<Please do send an image along. Does the fish seem at all interested in the
prepared food you have? You will likely need to offer something more meaty...
There are several choices here. Let's try to get a handle on the type of fish
this is. Bob Fenner>
Tiretrack Eels 10/14/03
They have not had an appetite for 3 weeks and I am getting worried so please
can any one that is an expert on them please help me.
<I really could use more info. These are Tiretrack eels? How long have you had
them? What kind of food have you offered them? How big is their tank? What
are their tankmates? Have you tested the water? How often do you change the
water? After you answer all of these questions I'll be much better equipped to
help your fish. Just to let you know, the only food I have ever seen my eels
eat is live Tubifex/black/bloodworms.>
and if there is a phone # I could call to give more detail please tell me.
<I'm sorry, we have no phone service. Emails to this address is the best we can
do.>
thanks Jeff <Your Welcome, Pufferpunk>
Fire eel diet
Hello,
I have been reading your website for a while, it's wonderfully informational. I
purchased a Fire eel a while ago. She is now about a foot long and is living in
an over turned decoration for her own personal cave. Her half of the aquarium is
covered in a healthy layer (4") of black moon sand, to not scrap her belly if
she ever decides she wants to burrow. The tank mates are 3 fire red dwarf
Gouramis, 2 Opaline Gouramis, and an angel fish. The eel loves ghost shrimp,
can't seem to feed her enough, but my pet stores can't seem to keep up with just
my purchases per week.
Two Eel questions:
(1) Feeding: What consists of a good healthy eel diet? What are all my
options?
<Many things... ideally natural food items like worms (including earthworms,
grubs (larval beetles) like mealworms, ghost/glass shrimp... small bits of cut
meats, fish flesh>
How can I keep my eel healthy and full but not break the bank?
<Culture (not you! the food)... and collection in the wild. Do look into growing
night crawlers, meal worms et al.>
How much of these options should I feed her?
<At a foot in length... maybe every other day, enough food to where the fish
appears "full"... not bulging>
Should I stock a smaller aquarium of just shrimp or something for her and feed
her daily like the other tank mates or keep her on a feast a week schedule (I
understand that's more like what their natural feeding habits are)?
<Better to not feed too frequently or too much...
(2) Future: Ideally or acceptably, what size tank should she be in when she is
full grown?
<This may come as quite a shock... but a few hundred gallons. Take a look on
fishbase.org re this mastacembelid species... It does get quite large
eventually. Bob Fenner>
Feeding peacock eels
I just purchased a small peacock eel and was wondering if I was feeding
correctly. He/she is about 4-5 inches long and I'm feeding shrimp pellets. I
read in the information on spiny eels that they won't bite and chew their food.
I don't think my eel's mouth is large enough yet to eat the shrimp pellet whole
but I dropped a pellet near him (he's burrowed and sticking his head and part of
his body out) earlier and it's gone now. Will they eat the pellets once they've
softened? Or do I need to resort to frozen food (I live in a college dorm that
allows only fish tanks and I don't have access to a store that sells live food
so my method of feeding is rather limited)?
<Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/matacembelids.htm
>
In addition to that, I was wondering what would be the best remedies for the
most common infections, like ick. I'm using a product currently with my other
fish called CopperSafe by Mardel (Active ingredient: Chelated Copper Sulfate) in
combination with a product called MelaFix (it says it's safe to use with
scale-less fish). CopperSafe seems to work really well with my other fish,
including a pictus cat, who came in with ick. But you mentioned that metallic
medications don't work well on eels. What should I look for in an anti-ick
medication when it comes to peacock eels? Should I just dose the tank with
non-iodized salt?
Sarah
<Please read over WWM using the Google search tool there, with these questions,
product names... I would not use Melafix for anything, nor copper compounds on
mastacembelids or pimelodid cats... Read my friend, before purchasing livestock,
using toxic chemicals on them. Bob Fenner>
Earthworms 'N' Eels - 03/07/2006
This is just a note for those eel lovers or those wanting to embrace the eel
so to speak.
<.... I might pet one, but hugging is maybe not quite in my plans.>
A couple of years ago I bought 4 eels for my hundred gallon aquarium. Two fire
eels and two tire track. Sadly someone left the lid on the tank askew and I
lost one a couple of weeks ago.
<Aww! So sorry to hear this!>
It was about 18 inches long. I still have three left that are about that size,
one is a good 23 inches long. They share the aquarium with a sun catfish, a
drift wood cat, a tiny (but extremely swift) zebra loach, a very fat clown loach
which I bought at the same time (he's a good 10 inches long) a spotted perch, a
dojo and a pair of spotted catfish that act like they're on crack. I love my
eels but let future eel owners be warned, they'll eat you out of house and
home. They pick at flake food in the morning, ah but at night they go through 3
of the large cubes of frozen blood worms and whine for more. I'm thinking that
someday in the future I will find just one very enormous eel in that tank, all
other fish having become snacks. Do you know if eels might eat fishing worms?
<Yep. Especially at that size. I recommend culturing your own, to be sure they
are in good health and nutrition. Google "vermiculture". You can start with
worms in your own yard, provided you haven't used any pesticides, herbicides,
etc.>
I'm curious but haven't tried offering any.
<I'm sure they'd love 'em. Try small worms, not big fat Nightcrawlers.>
I was kind of hoping that the larger worms might just fill the tanks up a bit
quicker. Luckily I can say that none of them have had an ailment in the years
I've had them. (knock on wood) and I don't want to encourage anything a live
food might bring in.
<Agreed.>
So if you have any information on earthworms for eels please let me know. It
would be much appreciated.
<I say give it a try - I've seen even smallish (<8" or so) spiny eels take small
worms.>
Thanks Jo
<All the best to you, -Sabrina>
Striped peacock eel info 3/16/06
Dear Robert,
I am new to eel care and have some questions regarding eel behavior. My eel is
approximately 6-8 in long (I'm not sure exactly because he doesn't stay still)
and appears to be healthy. I have only had him a few days and he still looks
pretty nervous about his new home.
<Typical>
I have a 55 gallon aquarium with 1TB aquarium salt for every 5 gal. I am unsure
about this but have read they do ok in brackish aquariums.
<To an extent, yes>
My main question is that could my 6-8 in eel eat a 3.5 in Senegal bichir or 5 in
violet goby?
<No, could not>
My bichir is terrified of my eel and the violet goby is MIA at the moment.
<The latter may have "jumped out"... look about on the floor... or be hiding.>
Also I am unsure he is getting enough to eat I have tried fresh raw fish, cut
Nightcrawlers, and shrimp pellets.
I have heard and read that these are all foods accepted by eels but I am
nervous anyway.
<Best to offer some live worms, insect larvae that sink...>
would a sort of community feeding spot work?
<Mmm, could>
None of my other fish are terribly voracious and I was thinking of a watering
hole type situation. If you could help to unravel some of this I would
appreciate it.
Sincerely,
Matt Tompkins
<I do hope your livestock all settle-in... they should be compatible... that is,
"get along" with another. I would not add any more salt than you mention... and
would try black worms, tubificids for your mastacembelid eel for now. Bob
Fenner>
Fire Eel fdg., sys./comp. 4/1/06
Hi Crew!
<Michael>
Hope all is well in Wet Web land.
I have a feeding issue with my 12" Fire Eel. I purchased him 8 days ago
from my LFS and since then I have not been able to get (him or her) to eat.
<Happens... mastacembelids don't like changes... and being "moved" is a
biggie>
(We will assume its a he)............. I have tried feeding him frozen
bloodworms with no luck and have just tried frozen krill even though I could not
find any documentation supporting krill to feed him.
<Some will take... but takes training on to>
He is in a 94 gallon corner tank with plenty of caves housed with a red
empress, Hap Ali, sunshine peacock, yellow lab, pike cichlid,
<These are aggressive species...>
and 2 cats (4" and not sure the type). All fish are between 4-5 inches.
I understand that there is some good competition for food for him and have
found ways around that. I have tried using a feeding stick to spear the krill
and have used the stick which acts like a turkey baster as well to blow the
bloodworms by him. He has had ample time to eat both. My latest attempt today
was to put the bloodworms in a shot glass and to lay the glass in the tank (and
yes, I took the Jack Daniels out of the shot glass first).
<Heee, good idea to both>
The bloodworms stayed in the glass and the cichlids left the food alone. I
left that in there for a half hour and watch patiently to see him not eat.
I have read and re-read your archives and understand that they can go on
hunger strikes for weeks at a time but I guess I would really value your input
on my situation.
Aside from not eating he does look healthy and acts fine.
Thank you in advance for your assistance!
Michael J. Bukosky
<I would try some live worms... likely "black Tubifex" if you could find, or
other... placed in a container as you've done here... but really, the best
scenario is going to be to place this fish in a less-agonistic setting...
completely covered top, with "soft" rounded substrate, diffuse lighting and
soft/er, more acidic water than some of the fish you list prefer. I would do
this move if this spiny eel does not feed within another week. Bob Fenner>
Some Questions about Spiny Eels - 05/22/06
Hi,
<<Hello>>
First off your site is very helpful and I have learned much from it.
<<Is good to hear>>
However I do have a problem that I couldn’t find an answer to on Google or your
site.
<<Okay, let's see if I can help>>
I’m new to aquariums and about 5 weeks ago I purchased a Striped Peacock Eel.
<<Read here and at the links in blue: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/matacembelids.htm
>>
At first he didn’t eat much (actually hardly at all) but a couple of weeks back
he decided to eat as much as he could get. I would like to know how many 8-10
mm long pieces of earthworms an eel about 7-8 inches should safely consume each
day.
<<Hmm...would think at least 3-4 pieces would be fine. Live Blood and Tubifex
worms would be relished as well, and will add some variety to the diet>>
Also he is outgrowing his home/cave rather rapidly
<<Indeed, can reach a foot in length>>
so should I try to find him a new hideout (the gravel is a bit to harsh for
burrowing) or attempt to possibly put new finer gravel in his half of the tank
(during a partial perhaps?).
<<I kept some of these eels a few decades back (did I really just say that?!),
quite interesting creatures as I recall. A fine/soft substrate is
best/ideal...along with some plants/hiding places...and subdued lighting>>
I want your personal opinion/s as well a reasonable answer/s so that is another
cause to actually Email you guys and gals.
<<No worries mate...I hope I've been helpful>>
Thanks in advance,
Matt
<<Regards, EricR>>
Some Questions about Spiny Eels II - 05/23/06
Wow thank you very much.
<<Quite welcome>>
I was feeding him as much as 8 pieces and before I decided enough was enough and
he still wanted more lol.
<<Yes, can be quite glutinous. Best to feed smaller portions several times a
day>>
However I know they like to hide and that they like "soft" substrate, I wanted
to know if it would be a good idea to change part or even all of the substrate
during a partial water change or add a larger hiding spot.
<<Would depend much on your filtration setup...but I think changing out parts of
the substrate with partial water changes over the course of a week or so would
be safest>>
Thanks again,
Matt
<<Always welcome, EricR>>
Unhappy Fire Eel 7/28/06
Hello,
<Hi Steve, Pufferpunk here>
I'm glad I found this site and I hope you can help me.
<I'll certainly try!>
I bought a Fire Eel about a week ago. He is about 8 inches long. He ate very
heartily the first 3 days I had him (hand fed frozen krill) but now hasn't eaten
for the last 2 days. He also seems less like a healthy eel. What I mean by
that is that in the beginning, his head was always sticking out of his cave, now
he won't stick his head out at all.
<That pointy nose of his is for digging in the substrate for worms. Try live
blackworms to get him interested. He will also eat bloodworms & eventually
large night crawlers. >
My ammonia and nitrite are 0 and my nitrate is about 80 ppm. I know that is too
high and will probably begin doing water changes twice a week at least.
<Woah! No "probably" about that! I'd do 25% daily (starting today), till
they're down <20. After that, 50% weekly is recommended. Be sure to clean up
any dead plant material & be sure to clean every inch of the substrate,
especially under decor.>
I also have a problem with my water turning soft, thereby my pH drops. I have
driftwood in the tank because my Plecos need it and I was told this would
continue to make the water soft.
<Stick to soft water-loving fish then, like the Plecos & your fire
eel. Angelfish, rams & lots of other neat fish like soft water too.>
About every 3 days I add pH stable which raises the water hardness and also the
pH as a side effect. Currently, pH is about 7.2 and
KH is about 3. None of my fish are aggressive so that is not an issue.
<Bad idea, adding products like that. All your doing is causing a constant
fluctuation of pH. VERY stressful on your fish. Leave the pH alone & keep fish
that will thrive in soft water.>
Besides rectifying the water quality, how can I get him to eat again? He still
"smells" the food when I try to feed him and he'll also grab a piece or two but
then spit it out. I know he wants to eat but won't. Also, any suggestions on
being able to stabilize my pH and water hardness on a more long term level (as
opposed to having to add chemicals every few days)?
<All answered above. Get those nitrates down, try live worms. I hope you have
a HUGE tank, mine grew to 2', before I had to rehome him--tired of replanting my
whole tank every morning! ~PP>
Please help, I really don't want to lose this guy.
Thanks, Steve
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