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FAQs about the Brooklynellosis Disease and Clownfishes 3 Related FAQs:
Brooklynellosis 1,
Brooklynellosis 2, & FAQs on Brooklynellosis:
Diagnosis/Symptomology,
Etiology/Prevention, Cures That Don't Work,
Cures
That Do Work, Treatment/Products/Manufacturers...
& Clownfish Disease 1, Clownfish
Disease FAQs 3, Clownfish Disease 4, Clownfish
Disease 5, Clownfish Disease 10,
Clownfish Disease 12,
Clownfish Disease 13,
Clownfishes in General, Clownfish
Identification,
Clownfish Selection, Clownfish
Compatibility, Clownfish Behavior, Clownfish Systems, Clownfish
Feeding, Clownfishes
and Anemones, Breeding
Clowns, Parasitic
Marine Tanks 1, Marine
Parasitic Disease, Parasitic
Reef Tanks, Cryptocaryoniasis, Marine Ich,
Marine Velvet Disease,
Biological Cleaners,
Treating Parasitic Disease, Using
Hyposalinity to Treat Parasitic Disease,
Related Articles: Clownfish Disease,
Brooklynellosis, Clownfishes, Maroon
Clowns, Marine
Parasitic
Disease,
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Fast Stocking; Repeated Mortality - 6/19/08
I'm on the verge of having a break down! I'm very patient when it comes to
fish tanks, but I keep losing fish, and I don't want to keep getting fish just
for them to perish when they hit my tank. I would rather them go to a tank that
they can thrive.
<An understandable- and noble- desire.>
Can you please help me get to the point when my tank is that tank? You are
probably getting tired of hearing from me, but here goes, I'll give you
everything, so you know where I am.
I have a 75 gallon tank with a Remora Pro, and an Emperor 400. I only run the
Emperor for about an hour or so a week, with just a generic filter pad with no
charcoal in it. I'm just using it to pull some debris out of the water.
<I'm curious as to the reasoning behind this...one hour a week can't be doing
any good, and you're probably cooking strange things in that filter pad during
the six days it doesn't run. I'd just plug it in and let it run...an aquarium of
this size will need filtration, as you are aware.>
And I dump out the Emperor once a week at every water change, and rinse out the
filter pad.
I also have 80 lbs of live rock, which I have built up against the back wall of
the tank, I don't know if this is advisable, but I did it because I have 2 Hydor
stage 4 power heads and a stage 3 all blowing off the front pane of the tank,
and it seemed to strong of a current for my softies, so now with the rock
against the back, I get the same water movement and it seems less abrasive to
the corals. I have a
Coralife power compact with two 65 watt 50/50 bulbs which i leave on from about
7 AM to about 11PM, I work 12 hour days and the tank is next to our bed, and I
like to watch the fish to wind down at night.
<Far too long. Consider reducing to a 12 or 8 hour photoperiod, from 11 to 11 or
so>
And I have a Stealth heater.
For water changes, I do 12 gallons every Friday morning.
<Good>
I use a python to drain the water, and then I mix tap water with Oceanic Salt
Mix and Prime water conditioner about 15 minutes before I put it into the tank,
or once the salt is dissolved.
<Search wetwebmedia.com re saltwater mixing and aging. Many components of
synthetic salt remain caustic- and therefore toxic- for a significant period
after they appear to be dissolved. It is much better to mix the water 1-2 days
in advance.>
For livestock I have 3 Green Chromises, a Chalk Bass, a Lawnmower Blenny, a
Sixline Wrasse, a Serpent Starfish, assorted hermit and snails, a Sally
lightfoot, and 3 Emerald crabs. All of these I have had for about 6 weeks. I
also have a African Pygmy Angel I added last week. For corals, I have 4 rocks
with Mushrooms, a Toadstool Leather coral, a Xenia, and a Pineapple Polyp. I
also have some Feather dusters, how many, I'm not sure, they're starting to pop
up in different places, which is very cool. I also have some unidentified corals
starting to grow on the live rock.
For food I use mostly San Francisco brand frozen Emerald Entree, and frozen
Spirulina Brine Shrimp.
<Many of these fish are omnivores or obligate carnivores. Mysis, squid, krill
would all be better substitutes for the brine shrimp, which have little
nutritive value.>
I like this brand because it seems to have less gelatin. I put about 3/4 of a
cube in a Dixie cup with just enough water to cover it, and add Garlic Extreme
in the morning, and pour all the contents into the tank. At night I do the same
thing without the Garlic Extreme.
<This is a LOT of food>
The food seems to break up by itself once it's it the tank, as opposed to the
Formula 2 I've tried which seems to stay chunky and get caught in the pre-filter
of the Remora, or in the powerheads.
<Formula 2 is designed to be gelatinous, cut to size...>
This is what my water looks like, Ammonia is at 0, nitrates 0, nitrites 0
<I don't trust these readings- not with as much as you are feeding and the
trouble you're having. Even in the best kept of systems there will be nitrate.
Are your test kits fresh, and from a reputable source (Salifert, SeaChem make
fine tests)? I would consider purchasing new and carefully retesting nitrogenous
wastes>
ph 8.4, SG 1.25, calcium 380 ppm, 11 dKH, and the temperature is at 76. Now the
alkalinity varies through the week, it will get down to as low as 7dkh, then I
will add Kent Marine Superbuffer and it brings it up to about 13dkh.
<Too quick a change. Regular, smaller additions to keep alkalinity constant will
improve the health of your tank inhabitants>
Everything else stays consistent, I just started measuring calcium, it was
420ppm at the last water change and now it's 380ppm.
Now for the problem, aside for what's in the tank, I can't keep anything alive
in this tank. I really really really want a Kole Tang. I have tried 3 Kole
Tangs, one dies and I buy another one, I'm not trying to keep more than one in a
tank.
<Too small a tank, and a lot of aggressive tankmates. I'm afraid your dream of a
Kole tang will need to remain such until you have another, larger system.>
I can't seem to get them to eat, I've tried frozen Emerald Entree, frozen brine
shrimp, romaine lettuce and Spirulina flakes. The last one I bought was dead
this morning, it was the largest one I bought and it was full colored. The fish
store had it more about two weeks before I bought it. I bought it this past
Friday, on Saturday it lost most of it's color, last night it was full of ich,
and this morning it was dead.
<Read WetWebMedia re ich, velvet, Brooklynella...you may have a serial killer>
The other fish I keep trying and losing are Clown fish. The most recent ones I
bought were Tomato clowns, these were the second pair of Tomato Clowns I've
tried. But I have lost many other Clowns before these guys. I also purchased
these fish Friday, they seemed to be doing
fine, then this morning when I woke up, they were both dead also.
<Again, you have a heavily stocked tank, and are adding things fast. Slow down,
plan carefully, and know your aquarium's limits.>
Also, aside from the dead fish, it keep getting micro bubbles from my Remora
Pro.
<Does happen, yes>
I taped a sponge to where the water enters the tank from the Remora, and this
seems to have helped slightly. I contacted the folks at Aqua C and they said if
I'm using a water conditioner like Prime, it can also cause the micro bubbles,
which seems very likely. My question is, would you suggest not using a water
conditioner at all?
<not if you have chlorinated water>
I also have a 75 gallon African cichlid tank that has been established for about
two years now, I don't use the water conditioner with that anymore, it seems to
me that there is enough of a biological filter in the two Emperor 400 filters I
have on that tank, and in the lace rock and substrate, to handle any impurities
that might be in the tap water. I'm not sure bio-filtration has anything to do
with chlorine,
<Chlorine is a biocide, toxic to all life>
but my fish are very bright and healthy and they get a water change once a week
also. I would just really like to
get rid of as many micro bubbles as possible.
So please, if you can possibly shine some light on what I'm doing wrong, I would
greatly appreciate it. If you can be as critical as possible, it would be much
more helpful for me.
<Gives those water parameters another test, and we'll see if there is a serious
problem there- as I suspect>
Thanks again.
Marc
<Benjamin>Re: Fast
Stocking; Repeated Mortality - 6/19/08
Thanks so much for the help.
<Welcome>
I was wondering, if I run the filter all the time, would you suggest
filters with charcoal, or just the filter pad.
<Just the filter pad. Carbon is something that is generally used more
for removal of accidental toxins (broken bulbs, spilled chemicals, etc>
than a continuous product>
Also, if I was to add a pair of clownfish, and I still wanted to add one
more colorful fish, what would you suggest.
<Nothing. Your tank is pretty full>
Now that I'm not going to be adding the Kole Tang.
Thanks again,
<No problem>
Marc
<Benjamin>
Re: Fast Stocking; Repeated
Mortality - 6/19/08
Thanks for the help.
<No trouble!>
I didn't run the Emperor all the time because I was under the impression
that the filter pads hold on the materials those create nitrates, so I
would put it on for an hour a week, just to get rid of some debris. I
would rather run it all the time, but do you think if I clean out the
pads at each water change, would I be pretty safe from creating unwanted
nitrates?
<Nitrates will be produced no matter what; they are the product of
nitrogenous waste from fish. Ammonia excreted from the gills and fecal
material is oxidized to less toxic nitrite, which is further oxidized to
nitrate. Without the production of nitrate, life in an aquarium would be
impossible. All this to say, nitrate is simply to be removed via water
changes- you can't avoid making it.>
Now, would it be a big benefit for me to use charcoal filters in my
filter, as opposed to just fiber pad?
<No>
I was told the Remora Pro would be all the filtration I need.
<Not necessarily...significant bacteriological cycling is necessary for
as many fish as you have, as well as something to remove particulate
matter from the aquarium.>
Now the only reason why I didn't make up my water a couple of days ahead
of time, was because I thought you had to have an extra heater and
powerhead.
<Would be best>
I have two 6 gallon buckets, I can make up the water on Tuesday and then
do the water change of Friday. Is it ok to mix it, even though there
wont be a powerhead mixing it up?
<Would be an improvement over just mixing and dumping in. If you could
drop an airstone, it would be even better>
Also, is there a better water conditioner you would suggest to use
instead of Prime?
<Prime is good, IME.>
I found out my fish were dying because of ich. When my first Kole Tang
got the ich, I was told all tanks have ick, it's just a matter of the
fishes immune system dropping for it to catch it.
<Well, this is true...augmented by other factors>
I was told it was very common for Tangs to catch ich, but as long as
they were eating, they would pull through.
<Not true- a parasite with incomplete symbiosis- like ich- will
eventually kill the host once it is established unless it is treated>
Since the last time I sent an email, I have been in a store to have my
water tested again, to see if there was something wrong with my test,
and they came up with the same results. 0 nitrates.
<I assume they used dip strips, as per LFS standard? These just don't
work. Never, ever have an LFS do your water tests for you>
So when I told him about the Kole Tang catching ich, he advised me to
not buy any fish for about 4 weeks, so the parasite doesn't have a host.
<As long as there are fish in the tank, it will have a host>
And if I don't have any more mortalities, then I can add another fish.
And on that subject, I have decided to no longer try getting a Kole
Tang, I was told this is one of the few Tangs, if not the only one, that
can go in a 75 gallon tank, but I still don't think they have enough
room to swim around.
<Very true, good observation>
I was hoping you may give me a suggestion on another fish, of decent
size that I might be able to put in my tank. I want to put a flame
angel, but I don't know how that would fare with my pygmy angel.
<I think with the clowns you planned, you will have a well-filled tank>
Also, I was wondering if you could give me your opinion on stacking the
rocks up against the back wall of the tank, I want to get rock to put up
the side walls also.
If their weight is stacked on the base, this is fine. If the rock is
literally leaning against the back wall you're risking a panel failure>
I just find this to be the best way to display the corals, and keep from
having an avalanche.
<A time tested method. Dependable, if not aesthetically thrilling>
I was just wondering if this was bad for circulation. Again, I have two
stage 4 Hydors, one in each back corner pointing towards each other off
the front pane of glass, and one Stage 3, on the side, all the way at
the bottom, all the way towards the back, blowing behind the rocks. Just
wanted to know if you could think of any down sides to this setup.
<Sounds good>
Thanks again,
Marc
<No problem. Benjamin>
Re: Fast Stocking; Repeated Mortality - 6/20/08
One last time.
<Okay!>
After taking your advice, I went on WetWebMedia and looked up
Brooklynella, and that is definitely what has been killing my clowns. I
tried to describe this to the LFS, and they said it was ich, or possibly
velvet. I looked up velvet, and I've had ich in my freshwater tank, and
this didn't look like either. It looked like my fish were "dusty". I
read the website, and it seems like the only way to get rid of it would
be to strip down the whole tank bleach it, and start over. I really
really really don't want to do this. None of the fish I have seem to be
affected by this. If I were to wait a couple of months before adding
fish, should I be ok?
<I'm afraid not. Brooklynella only affects clownfish and certain tangs.
It will remain in your system indefinitely, even in a fallow tank. Once
a tank is infected, it just won't be a safe home for clownfish.>
The only fish I want to add are a pair of clowns, and after reading, I
will be purchasing tank raised clowns. Will waiting it out work? And if
so, how long should I wait before adding the other clown. Again, all the
other fish I have, I've had for about six weeks with out
any problems.
<Your one option would be to wait, try again, and if the fish were to
succumb to the disease again send it to a specialist or vet who could
perform microscopy and identify the pathogen for you. This would at
least tell you for sure if it is in fact Brooklynella.>
And if I must add medication, is there any that would be safe for my
fish and corals?
<Nope. Medication should always be given in a quarantine, no exceptions>
All softies by the way.
Thanks again for helping me find my "serial killer".
<No problem. Best of luck!>
Marc
<Benjamin> |
Brooklynella nightmare...what do I do? Read 05/23/08
First, let me thank you guys for your hard work. I really appreciated.
Ok, it’s been 24 hours since I moved my 3 Clownfish out of the reef tank and
into the hospital tank for a copper treatment.
<... this won't cure Brooklynellosis...>
Unfortunately, the diagnosis I got from the store last on Sunday was incorrect.
I was just told that is not only Ich on my Tangs but Brooklynella on my
Clownfish. I need to know how fast I can move with this.
<Move?>
I’ve been treating Ich for two weeks using organic products.
<...?>
I had no money to set up the hospital tank (I put it off for too long) and I
have invertebrates in my 120 gallon reef tank. For weeks the Hippo Tang was
covered in sugar spots (Ich). My Yellow Tang caught it next. Although the
Clownfish did not show the sugar like spots, they were scratching. Then the
Clownfish started to disappear from the tank (5 baby clowns). Apparently the
Sebae or the Snowflake Eel decided to do everyone a favor and ate the sick fish.
I should have known something was wrong when I found a dying clownfish at the
bottom of the tank. I notice his skin looked whitish (not Ich like). But because
my Tangs were covered in Ich I didn’t think anything of it. On Tuesday night my
Hippo Tang died a slow death. I notice transparent film coming of her skin.
Yesterday the big Clownfish started shedding; breathing rapidly and not
eating (just like the baby clown and Hippo Tang). I also notice the lost of the
transparent thin border of his top fin. I know I’ll probably loose him due to
the unnecessary copper treatment but, can I help the two small Clownfish that
are in there with him? They look healthy and unharmed but I know this is not the
case. Can I go home and take the clownfish out of the Copper treatment, rinse
out the tank and proceed with Formalin?
<Yes>
I purchase the hospital tank, the heater and filter yesterday after the loss of
my Hippo Tang. Everything is new. I used 90% of the reef tank water and 10% RO
water for a quick set up.
<...? Can we start a bit further back? Where did this protozoan, these protozoan
problems come from?>
I tried for hours to catch the Yellow Tang and Snowflake eel but they are fast
and my net keeps getting caught in the live rock. The Tang/Clowns are eating
Mycis soaked in Garlic, nori and flakes. The Eel is eating shrimp like normal
(he will not eat anything with garlic). I’m doing weekly water changes to the
big tank. I also crank up the heat to 80 on both tanks as suggested.
<Not a cure...>
The water parameters were fine until I found that dead Clownfish, the nitrate
went up to 20, ammonia 0.25 (water change was made immediately) Nitrate close to
0, ammonia 0 Nitrite 0, Phosphates 0, PH 8.2. Salinity 1.022-1.023.
Thank you for your hard work guys
Sharon
<... don't follow you here, nor know what you're looking for. Input, protocols
re treatment for Cryptocaryon and Brooklynellosis are detailed on WWM... go,
read there. Bob Fenner>
Re: Brooklynella nightmare...what do I do? 5/23/08
Bob, I apologize for the confusing email earlier. I was writing under a lot of
stress and I didn't go over it before hitting send.
<Am glad it wasn't simply myself being tired... am out traveling>
In the email, I wanted to ensure that I could change from the copper treatment
to the formalin treatment quickly and with out affecting (killing) the Clownfish
in the process.
<I see... and would continue, do the change in treatment... Better to promptly
administer a useful medicant than wait here... Bob Fenner>
|
Disease Treatment Confusion,
SW... parasites 3/15/08
Hi WWM Crew ,
Your site and info is great. I've been reading for hours!
I introduced 2 small Yellow Tangs and 1 small Kole Tang to my setup.
<Umm, how large is this tank?>
Unfortunately, the Kole Tang died about 9 days after I got it (doing fine and
one morning I got up and within an hour or two it was dead).
I'm a novice - learned the hard way - ALWAYS QT new additions. Also, find
resources you can trust! That was Monday past. I called the LFS and the owner
suggested Melafix
<Worthless...>
in the main tank.
<No....!>
I noticed my 2 Saddleback Clowns (I've had them 4 months and they were super
healthy up to now) not looking so good the night before (slight film, fins
looking ragged, rapid breathing, listlessness, rubbing - but no spots). So I
dosed the display with Melafix
<...>
as per his directives for 3 days (he didn't mention it would harm my snails -
even though I told him everything in my setup, ugh). However, on the second
night of treatment (Tuesday) I noticed the Tangs had spots on their bodies and
fins (Ich), and a lot of it!
<Stress induced, but present already>
From another LFS, the owner told me to QT all the fish in my tank using the
original display tank water (to reduce the shock) and to stop using the Melafix.
<Good advice>
I did this Wednesday evening and have since given 2 doses of ParaGuard in the
QT. It is probably worth mentioning that the closest marine supply stores are 7
hrs. away. I am waiting to receive Cupramine at which point I was advised to
filter out the ParaGuard for a few hours and then start the Cupramine treatment.
But now having read so much on your site I am worried it may not be wise to
administer Cupramine to the Clowns (due to copper sensitivity and it sounds like
they could have Brooklynellosis which means copper is ineffective anyway?).
<If it is Brook, correct>
Should I put them in another, separate QT and
continue with the ParaGuard while using Cupramine on everyone else in the bigger
QT?
<If you have such facilities, yes>
If so, should I use all new mixed saltwater with the same pH, temp. and
Sp.Gravity or should I use some of the water they're already in to reduce stress
of possibly changing parameters?
<I would start making, using new water... the old is infested...>
I plan on letting the main tank lay fallow for 4 weeks, is 6 weeks preferable?
<Yes>
I apologize for all the questions but I want to make sure I give them the best
chance at survival possible and the info out there has been conflicting to say
the least. On the up side, they have continued to eat a little and my 2
Yellowtail and 2 Blue Devil Damsels (also in QT with everyone else) do seem
alright.
Thank you so much for your time :)
Sincerely,
Tracy
<I do wish you success... In the meanwhile, do keep studying. Bob Fenner>
Re: Disease Treatment
Confusion, SW... parasites... Brooklynellosis. Y. tang sys. – 03/20/08
Thanks for your reply Bob. I hope the crew and yourself are keeping well.
<I'm trying, thank you>
My current marine tank is 38g, but we're in the process of getting a 90g. Then
we'll likely use the 38g for the sump.
I realize how inadequate a 38g aquarium is for 2 yellow tangs
<Ah, yes>
but I was told by the LFS guy who sold them to me that it would be fine to house
them in the smaller tank while they are young.
<Mmm, only very young... This species clusters amongst finger-like Porites in
its range during its "high Sailfin" stage... but as it gets more than a couple
of inches long, starts ranging out...>
Had I been better informed I would have waited to get them. Thanks for all the
wonderful info on your site. I've learned a wealth of knowledge over the past
week alone.
<Ah, good>
So quickly, I've moved the 2 saddleback clowns into a 10g hospital and have been
treating Brooklynellosis with ParaGuard. They seem to
be doing very well and have regained their full appetite.
<A good sign>
The others:
2x 2" yellow tangs
2x 1" blue devil damsels
2x 1/2"-3/4" yellowtail blue damsels
are in a 20g hospital tank treated with Cupramine for Ich. Now no visible Ich
spots on their bodies.
<Mmm, if you had/have more room, I might treat the Yellow Tangs for Brook as
well... they can contract, be carriers>
Would the 90g be adequate to house the 2 yellow tangs and a yellow eye tang? Or
should I wait on the Kole tang until I get a 125g down the road?
<Would/will likely be okay in both/either case>
I'll likely be removing all 4 damsel terrors (although they are lookers).
I've also got an inquiry about a LR hitchhiker but will send separately.
Thanks again for all the time you and the WWM crew put into helping out fellow
hobbyists.
Tracy
<Welcome my friend. Bob Fenner>
|
Caring for new clownfish with
ich... Not likely... reading... 3/6/08
Hi there,
<Shelley>
Help! My husband and I are new to this - we set up our first reef tank over the
past few months. Did it slowly and meticulously to make sure everything
survived. We added two clownfish (Percs) and a potter angel
<Yikes... this species of Centropyge is not easily kept... needs large, stable,
well-established quarters...>
this weekend. As soon as we got them in the tank (we did not quarantine since
they were the first fish to ever go in
<...>
- but we know better now) the clownfish exhibited signs of ich.
>Mmmm, maybe<
Long story short,
we gave a freshwater bath to both, one survived (the larger one), the other
didn't. We left the larger one in the main tank - as we are sure the ich is
there now, so we wouldn't stress the fish. We are treating with No-Ich and
keeping the water as pristine as possible.
<Mmm, doesn't always work: http://www.fishvet.com/no-ich.htm for browsers. See
WWM re.>
While the white spots are going away, I was wondering how long it takes to get
rid of the ich?
<... may not be Crypt... is likely just cycling... will be back...>
Why didn't the potter angel get ich?
<A clue... likely IS Brooklynellosis, another protozoan... Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/brooklynellosisart.htm
and the linked files above>
Also, as the surviving clownfish is being treated, he seems to be fine except he
eats all the time. I feed 3x per day, just the tiniest bit of flakes twice a day
and frozen brine shrimp once. Is a big appetite a sign of stress?
<Mmm, no; not generally with marine life>
We have colt coral and hammer coral and a seabae -
<... these are not compatible... See WWM re:
http://wetwebmedia.com/sebaeSelfaqs.htm>
the clownfish has no interest in hiding in them, it seems.
She swims up to the glass when I come near and seems very active; but she also
rests at times, just swaying mid-level behind some rock. Is my fish stressed?
I'm trying to make the recovery from ich as stress- free as possible. Will she
make it? Still wondering how this escaped the angel.
Water stats are: ph 8.2, temp 79F, SG 1.020,
<Too low...>
no ammonia or nitrites,
20ppm nitrates.
Any help would be appreciated! Shelley
<Please... use the search tool, try to find what you need to know before writing
us... Time is of the essence. Read where you are referred to, the linked files
where you lead yourself... and soon... Your system is in dire danger, your
livestock... Bob Fenner>
my poor lil
clown fish... too little reading – 1/26/08
Ok crew you all are life savers. I chatted with you bout my lionfish
a couple days ago, nothing has changed with my tank, but yesterday I
noticed my black clownfish has a problem going on here.
<I'll say!>
I have searched your clownfish database, and couldn't figure out what is
wrong with him. I am attaching a pic, if you could help me out id be
very appreciative. I just did a water change on Sunday, and my test kit
says everything is fine. Don't want to loose the little one. Help me
please.
<... it's likely dead by now... Looks like Brooklynellosis, but could
well be another protozoan, a combination... You need to READ re... Bob
Fenner>
Re: my poor lil clown fish 1/27/08
Hey crew thanks for the answer on that. Krusty was dead when we got
home from her grandmas funeral on Friday. I read what you wanted me to,
and I am pretty sure that it was Brooklynellosis.
<I think so too>
My maroon clown looks like he is got it also. He's in quarantine right
now, and is kind of shaky. I was told to use KanaPlex,
<... no... Ridiculous advice>
I have treated the maroon once, and plan on doing daily water changes as
well. How well will that help? My other question is, can I use
that to treat my main tank, and will the Brooklynellosis affect my lion
and ccs? They both look fine and don't show no signs of it. Thanks again
you are appreciated.
<... read: http://wetwebmedia.com/brooklynellosisart.htm
and the linked files above. BobF> |
|
|
Clarkii Clownfish Acting Strange -
Possibly Stung by his Anemone?
Injured Clarkii or Brooklynellosis? – 12/13/07
Hi from Fort Walton Beach FL!
<Hello Dawn! Brenda here, suffering through the bitter cold!>
First of all I just want to thank you for such an awesome web-site!
<You’re Welcome! Thank you for the positive feedback!>
My SW friend turned me onto it and I have passed it along to another SW friend.
<Great!>
The site is absolutely invaluable to any experienced or novice marine aquarist
(like myself).
Here's my stats:
125 gal.
SG: In between 1.023-1.024
Nitrate 10
Nitrite 0
Alkalinity 300
PH 8.0
Phos 0.1
Calcium 400
Iodine .06
Magnesium 1400
<Temperature?>
Setup: Proclear Aquatic wet/dry, Proclear Aquatic Protein Skimmer, Fluval FX5
w/nitrate & phosphate sponge, and charcoal, and 2 Maxi-Jet 1200's, VHO lighting.
The 125 is an All Glass Megaflow with 2 overflows.
Stock: Orange Spotted Goby, A mated pair of Firefish, 1 blue green reef Chromis,
2 Clarkii clowns, 1 Domino damsel, 1 Bi-Color Pseudochromis, 1 Brittle Starfish,
1 Anemone,
<What species is the anemone?>
1 Mexican feather duster, 1 Atlantic feather duster, 3 Mexican Turbo Snails, 5
Nassarius Snails, Zoanthids, Xenia, Glove Polyp, Hammer Coral, Torch Coral, 2
Frogspawn, Candy Cane Coral, Bubble Coral, 110 lbs. of live rock and several
pounds of Tonga branch. Back to the larger of the two Clarkii clowns. "Clark"
took to the anemone right away and has been really tank mates with it since I
bought it (about 4 weeks ago).
<It is a pleasure to witness!>
Yesterday, I noticed Clark was sucking the tips of the anemone, sometimes more
than one tip at a time; and, acting out of character. I
understand it is completely normal for clown fish to suck anemones (through
reading articles on your site) however, when he was doing it he was laying
sideways and panting heavily. Now today, I see some type of lesion (kind of
looks like burn marks) on the top of his head and he is acting even more out of
character. He has his mouth open the entire time with a more labored breathing
and now he is hiding out, which he (she, you get the drift) has never done in
the past. Could it be possible that the anemone stung him?
<It is not likely for this to happen after 4 weeks. It is hard to say without a
picture. I suspect one of two things, an aggressive Domino Damsel or
Brooklynellosis. My guess is that it is Brooklynellosis. More information on
Brooklynellosis here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/brooklynellosisart.htm >
If so, will they typically recover from such an event? I'm at a loss what to do
here.
<It can recover from injury and Brooklynellosis. However, it sounds like the
Clarkii may be in the final stages of the disease.>
Since I'm new at the hobby (less than a year), I still freak out when I notice
something not right and test everything; but all is fine.
<Did you quarantine this fish and how?>
I have searched your site the past couple of hours and can't figure out what to
do, if anything. I do have a QT tank if I need to use it.
<I would remove the clownfish and place in quarantine. Read up on
Brooklynellosis, and know how to treat. If it is Brooklynellosis, the chance of
this fish being alive by morning, are slim. However, you may have more fish to
treat. I would also keep a close eye on the Damsel’s behavior. This fish can be
very aggressive and harmful. Anemones do best in a higher salinity. I recommend
slowly bringing your salinity up to 1.026 and reducing nitrates and phosphates
to zero. Also, your lighting may not be enough to support an anemone long term.
Can you give me more detailed information on this? How long has this tank been
up and running?>
All of the other fish seem perfectly content and normal. I appreciate your
assistance in advance.
Dawn
<Good luck to you Dawn! Brenda>
Re: Injured Clarkii or
Brooklynellosis? – 12/13/07
Hi Brenda,
<Hello Dawn!>
Thank you for your response.
<You’re welcome!>
Wow, hoping it isn't the latter of the two. I did read the article and it sounds
like what he has.
<Unfortunate, but it is not uncommon for wild caught clownfish.>
Expect he is gasping for air at the bottom of the tank, not top. It's hard to
tell with the lesions, but in any case, he looks worse this morning. At this
point, he won't make it, I can tell. It's making me feel so bad.
<I’m sorry!>
Even though we probably both suspect Brooklynellosis at this point, it was odd
that the Domino (yesterday) was swimming in front of Clark and fanning his tail
at his face. Hmmmm, why would he be doing that behavior?
<Domino Damsels can be evil! I have witnessed this myself many times. They are
not welcome in my tanks.>
I'm not sure what species my anemone is. If I had to guess, I would say maybe a
carpet.
<It is important to know which species, so that you can provide the appropriate
care.>
It is at the bottom of the tank and has burrowed his foot into the sand bed. He
has situated himself under a ledge of live rock so only has minimal lighting and
current in that location.
<This is not good. It will not last long under these conditions.>
I have not moved him because my experience is that they will just move
themselves back where they want to.
<Correct! It will move looking for a suitable environment. If there is not one
available, it will deteriorate.>
It is a kind of dirty pink color, around 1" short tentacles that have a green
tip on them. Not the bubble tip shape.
<The Bubble Tip anemone does not always have bubbles. However in this case, I do
not believe that you have a BTA. It is likely an LTA or a carpet.>
I did not QT Clark yesterday because I wasn't sure what to do. My QT tank is I'm
sure, minimally acceptable. It is a tank on reserve that we don't use and keep
for emergency purposes. It's a 5 gallon "eclipse type" tank (I can't remember
name brand). It has a built in filter with removable media bag, no heater
(though it would be easy for me to buy one) and just a compact florescent
natural daylight tube. It doesn't have the ability to "cycle" as it doesn't have
any type of biological capabilities.
<If the clownfish is still alive, I would still remove. Take water from the
existing tank. I also recommend getting in the habit of quarantining all new
species, coral included.>
I will work on raising salinity. Do all of the other corals/fish do fine at
1.026?
<Yes, and is closer to their natural environment.>
The lighting are 6' long VHO tubes. One is white, one is the blue light. We also
have moon lights for night viewing. No halide lighting, etc.
<This is not nearly enough lighting for this anemone.>
My temperature fluctuates between about 77-80 degrees.
<I would keep closer to 80 degrees.>
How long has the tank been up and running. That's a loaded question that I'll
explain. It was setup the end up July, 1st of August this year. I didn't have
any inverts at this time. Everything was fine until October 4th middle of the
night. We heard a loud "pop" and then an ensuing waterfall.
<Oh my!!!>
I knew what it was and I've been heartbroken ever since.
<I certainly would be too!>
That's right, the bottom of the tank cracked and all of the water, 125 gallons
+, drained out in less than a minute.
<Ouch!!!! Do you know what caused the break? Was the tank not level?>
Our home looked like a beach with water and live sand. It actually
ruined/flooded our entire home. I lost most of my fish. I actually started
thinking once the wave of shock left me and reached into pick the fish up off of
the sand bed and tossed them in the sump. I then over the next several days
found temporary homes in my SW friends.
<Good!>
I tossed all of the live rock into a 55 gallon bucket with SW and a jet. I
eventually got my hands on a borrowed 55 gallon aquarium that I set up in the
garage (while we remodeled our home which we are still doing). With that being
said, everything continued to be fine in the 55 gallon while we tiled our house
and put up baseboards. We finally got the living area ready and moved back into
the big tank, that was roughly a month ago.
<This is not long enough for an anemone. They need an established environment, 6
months to a year, with one year being best.>
At that time, we started adding corals, the anemone and the like. We also got
our 2 fish that survived the disaster back; the goby and the blue-green reef
Chromis. Sorry for the long winded explanation. We have all been through a lot
lately.
<I certainly see that!>
This is another reason I'm hoping it isn't Brooklynellosis, because mentally,
I'm still trying to recover from the above.
<I hate to be the one to bring you more bad news, but you will have more issues
in the near future with the anemone. It is best to remove soon and find it a
suitable home.>
Thank you in advance. Dawn
<You’re welcome Dawn! Good luck to you! Brenda>
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