Carbon, Phos, Nitrate reactor. 5/12/08
Hello, hope all is well.
<Is on my end for the most part.>
I have an off the wall question for you guys. Is there and such thing as over cleaning and Saltwater tank.
<Hee, can be.>
I have recently put a Phosban, Nitrate, and carbon reactor on my 140 and was wondering if there was a issue with doing such.
<Again, can be!>
In addition there is a Aqua C 180 and a Cal reactor as well. The reactors are all Two Little Fishes and all are set to a low flow. I've seen many tanks with Phos and carbon, but very few with Nitrate. I figured it couldn't hurt, but now have wondered if it is a little much. Any help would be great.
<Do be aware that life forms do require some soluble phosphate and many of the phosphate removing media are too effective! Do test your levels and use only when they are getting too high. For the nitrate reactor, you will honestly be better served with a DSB and/or macroalgae refugium. These units can work, I just like to let the system naturally work for you!>
Thanks Matthew.
<Welcome.>
Life Is A Reef ><((((º>`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸.·´¯`·...¸><((((º>
<Love the signature, Scott V.>

Chemi-Pure Overuse... lack of reading re chemical filtrants, Crypt...   3/6/08
Hello All,
<Jackie>
I am wondering if my tank may have suffered from carbon shock. About 3 weeks ago I added Chemi-pure to my sump.
<Mmm, even this high-quality product gets "used up" fairly quickly... Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/chemFiltrMar.htm
and the linked files above>
I have a 90 gallon reef tank that has been up and running for a little over a year. About a week after adding the Chemi-pure I noticed that my Kole Eye Tang was looking a little pale. A few days later he looked as though he may have developed ich (I think I noticed about 5 or so white dots). I decided to keep an eye on him for a couple of days (in the mean time I setup my QT tank). Roughly two days later my Yellow Tang had a few white dots (which I'll assume was ich). I was able to catch the Kole Eye Tang and move him to my QT tank treated with Cupramine (spelling)<Corrected>. The QT tank
salinity, temp, and PH matched the main tank. I was not able to catch the Yellow Tang.
<... if there is a protozoan infestation, all fishes need to be captured, moved... Draining the tank/system if necessary, most practical>
The next day Kole was upside down pressed against the filter. At this point I'm very leery of adding other fish to the QT tank (I'm sure you think I'm crazy).
<... is not a QT, but a treatment tank...>
It's been a few days and Yellow no longer has the white dots.
<Cycling... will be back... see WWM re Cryptocaryon life-cycle... treatment possibilities>
However, she is very pale about the face.
Back to the Chemi-pure. The product I purchased supports a 200 gal tank. I was not aware when I purchased it that you can't split it up.
So, I called Boyd Chemi-pure and explained my dilemma. He said that I could still use the 200 units in my 90 gal without adversely effecting the tank inhabitants.
<I concur>
I'm now wondering if he gave me sound advise.
<Advice>
Is it a coincidence that my fish started to stress out shortly after adding the Chemi-pure?
<Likely so, yes>
If not, should I remove the Chemi-pure? Not sure if removing it will also cause additional stress. Can too much carbon adversely affect my corals and inverts?
<Mmm, can... read where you were referred to... but not likely in otherwise well-set-up and maintained systems>
They seem to be doing fine at this point.
Thanks,
Jackie
<Read... then act, but soon. Bob Fenner>

Please Advise, Chemipure SW use or not    12/9/07
Just checking the following set up is ok. I have a fish only 1000L tank with sump filtration. The skimmer being used is a Deltec AP-701. The outlet of this skimmer is directed into the last compartment of the sump, along with the main return pump. Along with the skimmer I am using a Sander C200 and a Pin Point ORP controller. I also have an Eheim canister that contains 10 units of Chemi-Pure, the inlet and outlet hoses are also placed in the last compartment of the sump.
<Mmm, I'd move the intake to a more anterior compartment>
I change the carbon out at around 6 months as I have a low bio load.
<And likely label some how the Chemi-pure bags... and switch out two oldest for new every month...>
Do you think that the carbon will expire fast due to the use of the ozone.
<Mmm, no>
Was thinking of removing the Eheim and only using the ozone, or would you recommend to continue using the Chemi-Pure?.
<Well... depends... on what you are hoping to "get" by its use... and if you sense you're "getting it"... Likely the Carbon plus resin product is improving water clarity, removing some undesirable materials... but "enough" to satisfy you? The Eheim is likely "no fun" to service... You could leave off with its use and see if there is a difference... Bob Fenner>
Regards
Alan

Poly-Filter Over Carbon...Too Aggressive? – 09/17/07
Dear Crew,
<<Alan>>
Been thinking of using only Poly-Filter instead of activated carbon because of cost concern.
<<Is a great product...use it myself>>
Can Poly-Filter do the "duty" of activated carbon?
<<Yep>>
Read that Poly-Filter will also absorb ammonia and nitrate but by doing so, won't it affect the biological filtration by means of starving the beneficial bacteria?
<<Mmm, you pose an interesting question...but one of little concern I think. It is true the bacteria populations will adjust to the available nutrient load, but most hobbyists’ systems can use a little help re. The benefits of using the Poly-Filter product will outweigh your fears here...in my opinion>>
Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Alan
<<Happy to assist. EricR>>

Algone, free Jellies   8/6/07
Hi. I have 2 questions pls. 1) Does Algone work in all ways it says it does?
<According to the companies posted info., the folks who re-sell it, and many users, yes>
2) I started my refugium just less than a month ago...Is there such a thing as some sort of jellyfish to hatch in my refugium?
<Oh, yes>
they look & swim like them. They look like aliens, are about 1mm or a bit smaller & are invisible with 1 white dot on its head & few white dots???
Ghulam
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/jellyidfaqs.htm
Bob Fenner>

Re: Algone 8/7/07
Thanks for the info Bob. You guys are much great help & an amazing site. I just found it a month ago & cant get enough of it! Thanx again.
<Thank you my friend. Please do relate your personal experiences with this product should you use it. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Chem. filtr., SW, Carbon  7/13/07
Hi there!
<Hello Nicolas>
I just want to say thank you very much for the wonderful site you guys have! You have always answered my questions very quickly, and for that I am in your debt! :)
<thank you!>
My shrimp just molted and I'm extremely excited. Ha.
<Congrats!>
Anyways, I have a question about Chemical filtration. 
I have a 30g with two clowns, the cleaner shrimp, 6 hermits, and a couple of polyp colonies. Would it be overkill to use to containers of Chemi pure in my canister filter?
<I believe that one container of Dick Boyd's Chemi-Pure will be more than enough. It is rated for use for 3 months, however I recommend that it be changed out every 30 days. This prevents the media from becoming saturated with any one substance that it is removing. In heavily stocked systems I rinse the product once a week in freshwater, but that won't be necessary for you. What I would recommend is that you add a phosphate removing resin in the form of an iron oxide product. (Phosban, Phos-Pure, Rowaphos, PhosAr) to aid in the removal of phosphates and other dissolved organic compounds. With any reef tank, please make sure that your fresh water source is filtered via RO/DI to remove any nutrients before being used in the aquarium. With the use of these 2 products in a canister filter and regular water changes you will be treated to a beautiful, healthy aquarium!>
Thank you very much!
<No problem, Rich aka Mr. Firemouth>

Heavy Nutrient Issues and Refugium Questions.  – 05/07/07
Greetings,
<Jason.>
     I have a few questions about my refugium.  
<Okay.>
I have a 60 gallon FOWLR with a sand bed ~4 inches deep.
I've added on a CPR Refugium to help reduce our nitrate levels which have come down from 80 to 40 over the past 6 months or so since I added the refugium.  
<Still very high though, I would be supplementing with frequent and large water changes my friend. As well as trying to find out what the source is; to much livestock? Overfeeding? Not enough water changes? Poor source water? A Build up of nutrients or detritus somewhere in the system? Are you using a protein-skimmer?>
The refugium itself has about a 3 inch sand bed with some live rock and some Chaetomorpha.  So here are my questions:
1.  I can't seem to keep the Chaetomorpha anchored.  It always seems to float to the top of water and the lights end up baking it.  Any ideas?
<Well Chaeto does not use hold-fasts it is a tumbling weed. I would not try to anchor it but I would increase the water flow in the fuge to keep the mass tumbling.>
Currently i <I> have a couple of live rocks on top of it.
<That’s not how this “beast” operates my friend…it is meant to be free floating.>
2.  I have some brown hair algae that has been pretty persistent in the refugium.  
<High nutrient levels and poor water flow are a bad combination.>
I put some turbo snails in the refugium a while ago and they did a good job on it but one day they all ended up in the outflow tube and the refugium ended up overflowing overnight and shorting out  most of the electrical to the entire tank, so i've <I’ve> been hesitant to put anything back in there (any suggestions?).
<I think you need to increase your water-flow, and star on a “hardcore” water change regime. I wouldn’t add any animals to the refugium…if there's something in there you don’t like remove it manually.>
  I've added some PhosX pads to the refugium and they may have helped but not tremendously.  
<Yes this well help the symptoms but not the main issue…you need to find the source of your nutrient issues.>
3.  My local fish store has  told me that once the refugium gets the nitrate levels down to 0-20 we won't need to change the water anymore.  Any truth to that?
<Not at all my friend, it may decrease the frequency and amount you have to change, but eliminate them…hardly.>
Lastly and unrelated to refugiums.  What are some good choices for a cleanup crew for removing fish waste from the superficial sand layers?  
Currently we have a bunch of turbo snails and a few (3 or 4) super Tongan Nassarius snails and an emerald crab.  We had an electric blue hermit crab that recently kicked the bucket.
<Well invertebrate life isn’t going to last long in tank with such heavy nutrients, though I am a fan of the Nassarius snails. That is the first and foremost issue here. I also am under the impression that the tank needs more water flow on the whole, if wastes/detritus is settling into the sand; you don’t have enough water flow to keep it suspended…and maybe your sand is to coarse.>
Thank you guys for all of your help, never does a week go by where I don't utilize your website to some extent!!
<Thank you and keep reading.>
Jason
<Adam J.>

Searching instead of asking, pt.1 2/18/07
I am looking for a product called  Cleanwater  A 50   made by c. r. products. its a bag of filter material. any ideas where to find it.     
<Google. I found many links to info, and vendors as well. [Hint: is marketed by a prominent U.S. Aquatics company here, not C.R. Products, the Netherlands originate. Hint#2 Pe-- - Pl--] If this doesn't get you closer, I might be inclined to help a bit with a link, but think doing one's own research to be more useful in the long run.
-GrahamT>
Dave Dedlow

Chemical Filtration  1/5/07
Hello,
I am planning on implementing Purigen in my filtration,
<PO4 reduction is good...>
however, I currently use Stresscoat and have heard of negative product interactions resulting in possible fish death.  
<If you are referring to Aquarium Pharm. Stresscoat, then the "reports" partly true. SC is anime-based and thusly will bond with the resin. If you don't plan to regenerate the Purigen, then this is not a problem. However, if/when you do try regeneration, chlorine will combine with the amines and make a bigger, toxic word: chloramine.>
Do you have any recommendations on a substitute for it that would not cause negative effects, and how long should I wait from the last time I used stresscoat until implementing the Purigen?  
<If you go to Purigen's site: http://seachem.com/support/FAQs/Purigen_faq.html You'll see more on this topic and their idea of an alternative for you. Stresscoat isn't very long-lasting, but if you want to be sure of complete removal, use some fresh carbon and wait a week or more.>
Also in my filtration system I plan on running Super Activated Carbon and ROWAphos.  Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
<I have no experience with ROWAphos, BUT everything I read/hear is very good. The "older" methods of PO4 removal always leech back into your system eventually, but ROWAphos is a "never-leech" product. Use it!>
Also, It is a 30gal reef tank with a few LPSs and sps corals, currently running all PCs soon to be 175w 14k MH with  PC dual actinic.
<That is a lot of light! Do your corals seem to need that? I just think you might find a smaller solution without the waste heat.>
Thanks,
Jason
<You're welcome, Jason. Remember, actinic is for looks, not growth. You can try a swap with a 10k and save up front and long term over the HID. -Graham T.>

Adding Chemical Filtration - 10/21/06
Bob,
<<EricR here>>
I am graduating my current fish only live rock tank to reef tank...I have a 29 gallon, 4.5 watt per gallon, established fish only w/live rock tank that has been up for a year with amazing success.
<<Cool!>>>>
I will be employing an AquaC Remora skimmer.
<<Excellent>>
However, I will be removing my Penguin 280 power filter with BioWheel because my 45 pounds (1.5lb per gallon) of live rock will be my biological filtration.
<<Okay>>
My question is...how do I incorporate chemical filtration in the form of carbon now that I only run a skimmer?
<<Does pose a problem with out a sump.  You could simply drop a bag in to a corner of the tank for passive filtration but that won't look good.  I suggest you add a small canister filter (sans any mechanical media) to the system to use for carbon/chemical filtration...will definitely be worth the added expense>>
Please advise....
<<Regards, EricR>>

Re: New Marine Setup/Cloudy Water - 09/07/06
Eric and Crew,
<<Hey Rick!>>
You've done it again.  I followed your advice and the water has steadily cleared up.
<<Ahh...always gratifying to hear/read>>
I placed the powerheads back in the aquarium as directed and simply waited this thing out.  Within 3 days the bloom was practically gone.
<<As is usually the case.  I'm glad you were able to muster the patience to wait it out>>
Now, after a week the water is crystal clear and I'm getting some really interesting growth in the Live Rock (By the way, I ordered my live rock from LiveAquaria.com, select Lalo rock, it's gorgeous and I'd highly recommend it ).
<<I have been hearing much praise for this rock of late>>
I do, however, have a few quick questions, if you have the time.
<<Certainly>>
The temperature is hovering around 84 degrees since placing the powerheads back in the aquarium.
<<As does mine this time of year...not a big concern, though you don't want it creeping up much higher>>
I've ordered small fans to install in the hood in hopes of reducing it down to around 76-78 degrees.  Can I hope to expect this much of a change?
<<Not likely...a 2-4 degree drop is probably more realistic>>
I realize this may be a guessing game, but if I need to take further measures I'd like to start ASAP.
<<Lets see what the fans accomplish and go from there.  You're near the upper limit on temperature, but the addition of the fans should give you a few more "degrees" of breathing space.  If the fans you are adding are simply to "exhaust" the hood then do consider adding a small "clip-on" or similar fan to "blow directly across the surface of the water" to speed evaporative cooling>>
Secondly, I had a bag of Chemipure break in my sump.
<<Hate it when that happens>>
I've cleaned out the sump, but not before the carbon fragments got into the tank.
<<Mmm, yes...teeny bits they are>>
They're appearing in patches on my substrate.
<Not a concern.  The carbon will simply act/perform as any other porous material in the long term by colonizing with bacteria...very much like your live rock/sand does>>
I'm cleaning this out as best as I can, but with 120 lbs of live rock it's difficult to get it all.
<<No doubt>>
Should I remove the rock and meticulously clean the substrate?
<<I wouldn't>>
Can this be harmful to the aquatic life?
<<Nothing to be concerned with here>>
Last question, as far as stocking is concerned, I'd like to gradually add the following life to the aquarium and was hoping you could provide your opinion.
<<Well Rick, when it comes to "stocking" I definitely have opinions...and am always glad to share>>
Two ocellaris clowns (could you recommend the proper anemone?)
<<Mmm, trouble here right off the bat my friend.  I strongly recommend you DON'T acquire an anemone until you get a bit more experience under your belt.  It's not that these creatures are "delicate doilies" so much (some few species are quite hardy), but they do present their own special challenges...and risks...that are very easily/often overlooked.  For certain you don't want to introduce an anemone to this very new system...and certainly you don't want to mix this animal with other cnidarians.  The clowns will do fine without a host anemone...but if you really want to attempt this animal I recommend you spend time reading/researching and decide if you're capable and committed to providing the correct environment for the long-term health of these virtually immortal creatures>>
1-Long Nose Butterfly, 1-coral banded or fire shrimp,
<<The fire (blood) shrimp gets my vote...less destructive of the two and "may" facilitate as a biological parasitic control (cleaner).  The coral-banded shrimp will likely devour/destroy most all the emergent life on your live rock>>
1-Orchid Dottyback, 1-Coral Beauty, 1-Blue Girdled Angel,
<<As a fish mix, these are fine.  If you did acquire an anemone, the butterfly and the angels would likely prove incompatible>>
and 1-small puffer/Toby (something in the Canthigaster genus).
<<Also would not be compatible with the anemone>>
I'm leery about the Toby as some sources state that they can be "fin nippers".
<<Not can..."are"...and more than just fins!  Tobies are generally hardy/interesting aquarium specimens, but they need to be housed with "agile" fishes to avoid getting nipped...would also pose a threat to many/most crustaceans/inverts>>
Can you recommend a species that tends to be less aggressive?
<<Mmm, the "nipping" behavior is indicative of the genus (most all "puffer" genera) as far as I'm aware>>
In lieu of the puffer I was also considering a Hawkfish (Flame or Long Nose).  Any advice you can provide would be appreciated and not taken lightly.
<< Ah yes, well Grasshopper...Wait/study-up for now on all the commonly kept/available anemones, and go with the hawkfish if you’re uncertain about the Toby (either species of hawk is fine, though I really like Oxycirrhites typus...this species would also be less risk to the shrimp)>>
Thanks again.
Rick in DE   
<<Always welcome my friend.  Eric Russell in SC>>

Eheim For Rowaphos   9/4/06
Dear James
Hope you are well.
<Not bad, thank you.>
A further question or two.
At the moment I run 2 Eheim filters on my 37g reef tank : 1 mechanical and  1 wet and dry.
There would seem to be enough space in the bottom basket of the mechanical filter to add an inch or so of Rowaphos which I would like to use to eliminate phosphate.  Maybe I could mix Rowaphos with the Eheim media, or replace the whole bottom basketful with the Rowaphos.
<I'd do the whole basket.>
Does this sound like a fair idea and/or would it ruin the efficiency of the filter?
<Should be fine.>
If you think I should keep the filters as they are (I know you guys are not great fans of Eheim always,
<I've never had problems with the Eheim line.>
but I am 'afraid' to take them out of action)  are you acquainted with the Deltec MCE600 skimmer which has a space for adding Rowaphos.  Is that a good option perhaps?
<If you are not presently using a skimmer, this would be a very good option.
Not familiar with Deltec, but understand they are a efficient skimmer.>
Many thanks for your time.
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
All the best.
Peter Hosier

Reef Lighting Upgrade (Probably Not Necessary), and Zeolite Filtr. tech. SW - 07/30/06
Hey everyone,
<<Howdy Marc!>>
Thanks as always for the time you put into helping others with what can be a daunting hobby at times.  More so when you are only starting out.
<<We're happy to assist>>
My email is to ask about two areas that I have to finalize with my reef tank (4x2x2).
<<OK>>
I am in the process of upgrading from an LPS and softy dominated tank to SPS, corals and clams.
<<I see>>
1. Lighting - I currently run two 150w DE MH with 14K globes and four NO fluorescent actinics.  As I plan to change over to an SPS tank I am keen to increase my lighting to improve my chances of color and growth with the corals.
<<Mmm, likely no "upgrade needed re the lighting...but if you wish to increase PAR, a simple change to 10K bulbs will do it>>
I have read a great number of the posts on the web site.  I take it
from the various authors' comments that I should not go with 400w MH for this depth tank but rather go with 250w MH at around 6 inches above the water.
<<Well Marc, you likely also realize that the opinions on lighting vary about as much as the number of questions re.  Were this me, I would give the 150w DE 10K bulbs a go before spending the money to "upgrade" to higher wattage ballasts/fixtures>>
I have looked at many tanks and I am confused then why there are
still so many tanks running 400w MH halides and what benefit they may see from this over 250w MH (although many of these lights are 10+ inches off the water - which may make some difference).
<<Indeed my friend...you have to realize there are variables that determine your "power" requirements (water clarity, supplemental nutrition, species, placement, bulb type/color, etc.)...but some folks are convinced or just want to believe if they throw enough wattage at their tank then "all will be beautiful", while ignoring or overlooking other husbandry aspects>>
If I do not need the extra wattage then here's to saving the dollars and spending them on something more useful for the tank such as more circulation (currently around 20x - advice hopefully well taken).
<<Agreed>>
2. Zeolite - I have seen a number of tanks running Zeolite as a nutrient control method for SPS tanks.  I currently run a Berlin style system with a DSB and Jaubert plenum chamber and a 15g refugium.  I run an Aquamedic skimmer rated for 250g odd tank size and do semi-regular water changes (about 10% each 2 weeks - a little bit slack on this).
<<Mmm...the water changes are about the single best improvement you can make...best not to be "slack" here>>
I also run carbon which is changed every 4 - 6 weeks.  What is your opinion on the Zeolite system and do you recommend it as an extra means to control nutrient levels.
<<I have not had much interest/kept current on this Zeolite  (Zeovit) fad.  Try visiting this site for some info:  http://www.zeovit.com/forums/showthread.php?p=35065#post35065>>
I understand that circulation, lighting and nutrient levels are the three major keys to SPS coral keeping (correct me if I am wrong) and therefore these are areas I am keen to get spot on to ensure a colorful and healthy tank.
<<Would like to add that among the "many" aspects of this hobby, these three are "key" to "any type" marine system>>
Any help you can give is greatly appreciated and thanks again for the effort you put into the hobby.
<<Quite welcome...I hope the information is of use to you>>
Cheers,
Marc
<<Regards, EricR>>

Using Seachem's de*nitrate - 06/27/06
Hi Crew,
<<Hello Tim>>
I decided to try Seachem's de*nitrate.  In order to maintain a low water flow as recommended to grow the anaerobic bacteria, I opted to use a cheap corner filter dedicated for this purpose, with an air pump of 150 liters per hour to draw water through the filter.
<<Okay>>
This filter is filled with mostly de*nitrate, with some filter wool at the top (which is where I understand water is drawn in).
<<Yes>>
However, now I am not sure whether this type of set up will be any good for anaerobic bacteria.  Could you please advise?
<<Should work fine...as long as the filter holds the recommended amount of media for your system.  As you indicated, this media works best with a low flow rate (less than 50gph) which should be achievable with the filter you describe.  As an alternative, you could place the material in a mesh bag and drop in to your sump (if you have one)>>
Thanks,
Tim
<<Regards, EricR>>

Chemical Media Placement - 05/29/06
Last one I promise!!!
<<No problem <G> >>
Could I put my Phosguard carbon, and Purigen under my drip tray where the bio balls used to be or does this media need to be fully submerged under water to work properly.
<<Best results would come from using this media in a canister filter, but what you propose will also work.  Place the media in a suitable mesh bag and position it where the water falls/flows over it>>
Thanks
Chris
<<Welcome, EricR>>

Reef Bio Filtration...Keep the Bio-Balls? II - 05/15/06
As mentioned before, thanks a lot for all the info.
<<Anytime>>
I took the bio balls out.  How do I convert the Sea Storm to a carbon reactor.
<<Easy enough...replace the sand with carbon...or replace with one of the ferric oxide medias and use it as a phosphate filter>>
Or is there something else I can do in the great big sump area now.
<<Mmm...add a skimmer...maybe another media reactor/internal filter with some Poly-Filter...or even a lighted macro algae filter>>
Thanks Again!
Chris
<<Always welcome, EricR>>

Fluidizing ChemiPure?   4/28/06
Love the site!  
<Glad you enjoy it! We're thrilled to bring it to you! Scott F. here today.>
I was interested to know your thoughts on removing Chemi-Pure from the bag and using it in my Phosban
Reactor?  The manufacturers do not recommend removing it from the bag, but I cannot see the harm in this
situation (if run properly through the reactor, low flow, etc.) Do you foresee any problems in doing this?
Regards,
Andrew.
<Good question, Andrew, and the answer is kind of unclear. While I'm sure that this media would fluidize nicely, I really don't know if there is any advantage to be gained from using the media in this manner. On the other hand, by making sure that the media is thoroughly exposed to the water column, you may be using it more efficiently. My best recommendation is to contact the manufacturer, Boyd Enterprises, and get the answer from them. This is a great product, and if it can be used in this manner, it would that much better! Please let us know what you find! Regards, Scott F.>

Fluidizing Chemipure? (Pt.2)    5/2/06
Scott,
<Hello again!>
Thanks for the fast reply.  I talked to Mr. Boyd and was told that you can run Chemi-pure through a fluidized bed filter or Phosban reactor with results
that equal or exceed traditional methods.  However, you must be sure to use the full contents of the bag, as the different media types tend to stratify, and you
would not get the right mix if you just used a portion of the contents.  Furthermore, the resin particles are very small and can potentially escape the reactor.
The recommendation was to add some filter floss above the media, eliminating the chance of losing these resins to the tank or sump.  The floss would also
allow increased flow through the reactor.
As such, I look forward to setting this up and think it will work great.  Thanks for your help.  
PS - I just picked up Anthony's book and must say how much I have enjoyed it.  It is refreshing to find something so rich with experience and information for
those of us who would rather think critically and contemplate ideas than look at pictures, point to them, and say "that's cool, I want that."
Andrew.  
<It's a real gem, and I know that Anthony would be stoked to hear that you enjoyed it so much! Thanks for sharing the ChemiPure information! Regards, Scott F.>

Re: RowaPhos    4/6/06
Att Bob Fenner     Bob you asked that I send the original message.   
   Bob... Loved your talk to the Seabay Aquarium club in the Bay Area last year!        Here is the original  question.............                                                                                        
Greetings from California!  A quick question for you.  If RowaPhos is an iron based media.  What would you think of running the outgoing effluent through activated carbon before it returns to the sump?
  Thanks
  Richard
James (salty dog) replied with.... For what reason?
<Ahh! Thank you for this. There are variable qualities in such ferrous based Phosphate filtrants, but the ROWA line are consistently high quality... Leach little to no iron of consequence. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

PolyFilters  12/8/05
Hey crew, 
<Sam>
Just wanted to know whether you thought it was a good idea to keep PolyFilters in my Fluval 304 at all times as opposed to sponge filters.  I have a 90 gallon with p and tusk, so they produce quite a lot of waste. I also have a wet/dry, aqua wheel filter, and two powerheads. I usually keep two sponge filters in two spaces and two poly's in the
other two spaces in my Fluval. I wasn't sure if this was a good idea to keep the PolyFilters in 24/7. I thought that it would filter out any medication, or additive that I would put into my tank, such as purple up, a coralline algae growth enhancer. Thanks for everything. 
<Don't see a problem using it 24/7. Shouldn't affect your enhancer enough to matter. Sam, in future queries, please do a spelling/grammar check and cap all your "i's". It just takes extra time for us to answer these queries when we also have to edit them for posting. Thanks, James (Salty Dog)>