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FAQs about Aquarium Chillers/Chilling Selection
Related Articles: Marine Tank Heating, Cool/Coldwater
Marine Systems, Coldwater Sharks,
Related FAQs: Chilling 1,
Chilling 2, & FAQs on:
Fans For Cooling, Chiller
Rationale/Use,
DIY, Installation,
Maintenance,
Troubleshooting, &
Cool./Cold
Marine Set-Up,
Heating,
Water Temperature, Metal Halide Heat Issues,
Cool to coldwater animals, particularly smaller
invertebrates, need consistently chilled water.
Halgerda terramtuentis Bertsch & Johnson 1982, the Gold Lace
Nudibranch. Hawaiian endemic. Michelle Lemech photo
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Chiller, brand, size sel.
12/7/08 Hello ladies and gentlemen, <Hello Art!> I have a
45gal. saltwater reef tank with t-5 HO lighting in the canopy of the tank
cabinet. My wife and I have this tank in our back family room. We have a
new heat pump that we like to keep at 75 degrees. The back room is warmer in
hot weather. I would like to know your recommendations for the best brand
and size chiller for a tank up to 75 gallons. I am familiar with Aqualogic
Tradewinds brand, Oceanic, Teco and other brands. I am looking for the
quietest and most energy efficient model (s). <All of the brands
mentioned above are reasonably energy efficient and quiet, all will suit
your needs fine. These are basically small a/c compressors, they do make
some noise and consume a good bit of power when on. For sizing it depends on
just how hot the room gets in the summer. You will need to look at the
temperature pull down you need vs. what the manufacturer recommends for your
size tank, but I would speculate you will be in the 1.5 to 1/4 hp range.>
Thanks, Art <Welcome, Scott V.>
Iceprobe Thermoelectric Chiller 6/28/08
Hello,
<Hello Chris!>
I have a small FOWLR 18 gallon tank with 7 gallons in sump. I have the 65W
Current Dual Compact light, which has no fan, but I plan on installing one
or two on the ends. I have a 395 gph sump pump running as well. I live in
hot southeast Texas and have been having problems with my temp staying
around 84-85 a large part of the day. I want to one day get a few pieces of
coral, but I know this temperature is unacceptable.
<Your temperature is definitely in the upper limits, but the temperature
swings throughout the day are likely of more concern in such a small tank.>
I was wondering if anyone knew anything about how efficient these Iceprobe
thermoelectric chiller systems worked. I couldn't find anything about this
technology on your site.
<They do actually work to a certain extent. For the money consider saving up
about $100 more and buying a small traditional chiller. This will give you
more cooling power and stable temperatures throughout the day. In the
meantime I advise you to use the fans you mentioned above first. Not only on
the lights, but blowing across the water. Evaporative cooling can be a very
powerful tool, may make the decided difference in this case.>
Thanks for your help. Chris of Texas
<Welcome, have fun, Scott V.>
Re: Beginner Chiller/Refugium Questions 5/28/08
Appreciate the feedback.
<Welcome.>
Two final questions (sorry, they keep popping up and I want to do this
right).
<No problem.>
One: If I were to get a chiller, should I go with JBJ Arctica 1/5th or the
Current USA Prime Tower 1/4th? The Prime is cheaper by around $180, but I'm
after quality and quietness first, as well as a small size. Opinions?
<Either of these chillers will serve you fine. For the price I am inclined
to pick the Current. This is just a personal choice on how much you want to
spend and which one you like the looks of. Keep in mind that a chiller
ideally should not go inside a stand, it needs air flowing around/through
it, so looks do count!>
Second, I found a T5 2x24W FW light for half the cost of my twin-tube
fluorescent at 2x18W. Which should I choose? Will the T5 not work for me?
<For the refugium? It will, a better choice. The initial cost is one thing
to consider, do also factor in the cost of replacement bulbs. Even then I
suspect the T5 will be the better choice.>
I want cheap and efficient with minimal replacement, and I read that the T5
might be more efficient with the same maintenance.
<It is more efficient per watt, but is still going to draw more wattage due
to being high output bulbs.>
I couldn't find much on T5's on WWW... Must be rather new!
<Hmm, much is there, believe me!>
Thank you,
John
<Welcome, Scott V.>
Chiller for 180 3/7/08
To any of the great staff of WWM,
<Hello Jason, Scott V. with you.>
I have an established 180 gallon saltwater FOWLR that I started to introduce
some mushrooms and leathers to as well as a BTA that has planted its foot at the
opposite end of the tank of my corals (not that it can’t move)
<This can be a deadly combination, likely over time.>
My salinity is 1.024<A tad low, shoot for 1.025-1.026.>
nitrates, Nitrites and Amm are a nice 0
I have a 30 gallon sump
20 gallon mangrove mud refug
3 MH lights with actinic
protein skimmer and 40 watt UV
The temperature of my tank hovers around 80-82 degrees as I live in Florida and
its typically hot.
<Although not ideal, this temp can work so long as it is stable.>
I haven't had a problem yet with my corals but I was considering adding a 1/3 HP
chiller (bigger is better or so I've read).
<Bigger is not better with chillers, no matter who says it is. A chiller that is
too large will constantly be shutting on and off. You will wear out an expensive
investment very quickly. That being said, I think a 1/4-1/3 hp unit will serve
you well.>
I was wondering what the proper technique is to lowing the temperature. I know a
swift reduction to 78 would be harsh on the corals and fish. So how often should
I reduce the temperature and by how much?
<Reduce a degree a day to play it safe.>
Also is 78 a good norm for the tank and if not what is ideal for soft and
leathers?
<78 deg F is a good target.>
I also had a side question in regards to algae growth. Will a chiller help
reduce algae growth in the tank or is heat not as big a factor as lighting?
<Making desirables (coralline algae and the such) more competitive will help. If
you have algae problems, do look into the cause. Lighting may fuel the algae,
but there is lighting in algae free tanks too! Your nitrate is likely 0 because
it is getting processed by the algae as it is produced.>
All your help has been a godsend and with it my tank has been thriving for quite
some time.
<Thank you, great to hear.>
Best regards,
Jason
<Best fishes, a link for you below, Scott V.>
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm
Alternative chillers 12/29/07
Hi crew! Happy holidays!
<Hello, happy holidays to you too!>
We have promised ourselves that in the coming year, we will either install
central air conditioning or get a chiller. The temperature fluctuations last
summer virtually cost us our entire tank!
<Yikes, does happen.>
Now that we have recovered, recycled and restocked, we don't want to have a
repeat situation.
Nonetheless, while we were reading a magazine today, we stumbled across a
product that looked very interesting. Here is the link:
http://www.specialist-aquatic-supplies.co.uk/web/Ocean-Geotronic.htm
Do you know anything about this technology?
<Yes, does work.>
This unit?
<None with this particular unit.>
Our reef tank is 120 gallons, so we'd need the Ocean 600. It's $1,400 (not all
that different from a chiller).
<Hmm…a comparable chiller should cost about half this.>
Even after reading the company info, we're not sure we understand this. Does it
get piped into the tank?
<Yes.>
Does the 9-degree note mean that if we want the tank at 79 and it's 95 outside,
it's too big a fluctuation for this unit?
<Going off the described specs of the unit, it does not appear it will provide a
16 deg pull down.>
As always, we appreciate your help and expertise.
Thanks in advance,
Michael and Dianne
<If you want to shell out the cash the Deltec ECO coolers provide another
alternative to traditional compressor units. They are kind of pricey, but are
much more energy efficient Very welcome, Scott V.>
http://www.deltecusa.us/ecocoolers/index.php
Question about Fromia Sea
Star, fdg. & Drop-in chiller – 08/31/07
Hello WWM Crew,
I am writing to ask your advice regarding the best way to care for a Fromia sea
star that I recently purchased for my reef system
First, an overview of my setup is provided below for your information.
System Overview
Display: 135 Gallon Tenecor Acrylic Aquarium (72" W x 18" D x 24" H) with 1"
fine aragonite sand bed (vacuumed frequently) and approximately 120 lbs of Live
Rock. Recirculation rate is about 1300 GPH.
Refugium: Ecosystem 3616 Mud Sump with active Chaetomorpha and roughly 15-20 lbs
Live Rock. Two large overflows with Durso standpipes add roughly 30 gallons
"fishless" volume.
Lighting: Three 150 W HQI pendants (12K) and Four 160 W VHO (1 AquaSun, 2
Actinic White and one Actinic). Lights are on timer sequence with MH's running
about 8 hours/day and maximum wattage peaks at around 930 W.
Filtration: Eco Reef CS 135 which runs continuously and produces about one cup
(very dark and smelly) skimmate every 2-3 days. Also employ four (1 cup each )
bags of activated carbon in the in the sump which are rotated/replaced one bag
per week.
<Good technique>
Chiller: 1/4 HP Aqualogic "drop in coil" type
<Are you happy with this unit?>
Water Parameters
Temperature: 81 (+/- 1) F
Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate not detectable per Salifert test kits
Salinity 35.5 (+/- 0.5) ppt
pH - 8.4
Calcium ~ 400 ppm, Alkalinity ~ 9 dKH
Inhabitants
Fish: Flame Angel, Bicolor Blenny, Purple Firefish, Sunrise Pseudochromis, Neon
Goby
Corals: Pocillopora, Plate Montipora, Encrusting Montipora
Inverts: Two Cleaner Shrimp, Blue Legged Hermit Crab, assorted astrea snails and
a Tuxedo Urchin
LR Hitch Hikers: Zoanthids, Star Polyps, Unknown Encrusting Stony Coral,
assorted sponges and small clams.
Macro Algae: Assorted small Halimeda and Caulerpa (removed manually).
After a thorough review of your invaluable website (along with Mr. Calfo and Mr.
Fenner's "Reef Invertebrates" book) I decided to take on the challenge of
keeping a Fromia sea star. After several months, I finally came across an
exceptionally beautiful Fromia specimen and introduced it into quarantine about
three weeks ago. The quarantine is a 10 gallon glass tank with several
"grapefruit" size pieces of live rock from the display, along with a "mature"
sponge filter and a couple of powerheads.
<Sounds good>
To acclimate the Fromia, I took water from my display, then adjusted the
salinity so that it matched the "bag water" (32.5 ppt). I then drip acclimated
the sea star to the quarantine water over a period of a few hours to minimize
shock to the animal. Incidentally, I also checked the bag water for phosphate
and nitrate level of the LFS water, which measured 3 and 50 ppm respectively
(which I assume was quite stressful to the animal).
<Mmm, maybe>
I let the salinity slowly go up to 35 ppt over a few days by topping off the
tank with salt water. I also change out 1gallon of water every day using display
water as make-up.
<Very good>
I watched the animal closely for the first week or so for signs of tissue
necrosis and so far it appears very healthy. But for the first two weeks or so
the animal just stayed in one place in the tank (hardly moving at all). It has
since started to move about a bit which I take as a sign the animal is
acclimating to its surroundings. So at this point I believe it would be a good
idea to introduce the Fromia into the display within the next week or so.
<Okay>
Now (finally) for my question - based on observations over the last three weeks,
I am unsure about the best strategy for feeding this animal. After my reading in
"Reef Invertebrates" my original thinking was to let the animal "graze" on the
live rock fauna and any food left behind from fish and coral feeding.
Alternatively, I am considering putting the star in the refugium, where there
appears to be a higher density of potential food items.
<I would try the tank first... if the animal moves around a bit every day, it is
likely fine, getting enough food...>
There seems to be quite a bit of contradictory information on the subject and I
would greatly appreciate learning your thoughts / suggestions on the best
feeding strategy based on your experience? Are you aware of any supplemental
feeding that may be worthwhile to try for this species?
<Given your excellent set-up and good relating of same, I don't think that
supplemental feeding will be necessary. Fromia stars actually consume very
little... though I'd like to comment that there are some carnivorous species for
which this does not hold>
As always, I want to thank you for your website and the assistance you provide.
Scott
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>
Re: Question about Fromia Sea
Star 9/1/07
Hello Bob,
<Welcome Scott>
Thank you very much for your reply. I will move ahead as you suggested and
introduce the sea star to the main display.
<Ah, good>
I wanted to reply to your question about the drop in filter. I have had the unit
in service for about six months now and so far I would have to say I am happy
with the unit. Prior to installing the chiller, the tank would reach
temperatures of over 84F by late afternoon (tank is located adjacent to an
exterior wall in Southern California).
<Ah, yes... Thank you for your input... many folks have stated their antipathy
for such drop-ins... am glad to hear a positive comment>
I have the drop-in coil placed in the third chamber of the Ecosystem sump, with
the setpoint adjusted to come on at 81F, and chill the water down to 80F. The
compressor is located adjacent to the cabinet and kicks on for about 30 minutes
every 2 hours or so. The room gets a bit warm but noise is really not a problem.
Generally speaking, the unit has been very reliable in maintaining the tank
within the temperature setpoints. I have also been able to significantly
increase lighting intensity and duration in the tank (to the benefit of the
coloration of my Pocillopora). I have noticed some scaling on the coil, and
figure that eventually I will need to clean the coil in a vinegar solution, but
so far the scaling does not seem to significantly impede heat transfer.
<Okay>
You also mentioned that some species of Fromia are carnivores.
<Mmm, on smallish animals...>
I have attached a photo of my Fromia and wonder if you could help further ID
this animal (my LFS was of no help). I am curious if you are aware of and
particular requirement of this species.
<Pretty sure this is a F. indica... very nice pic and specimen>
As always, I very much appreciate the insights and information you and your crew
share with novices such as myself.
Scott
<A pleasure to share. BobF>
Help With Chiller Size/Brand – 05/14/07
I am sure you get a flood of ‘temperature’ questions around this time of the
year, so
I will not disappoint.
<<Flood away...>>
I am in the NYC area and I have a 72 bow front with a gravity fed and drained 10
gal refugium with 4-inch DSB and a 20 gal sump, with a Mag 7 for the skimmer
and a Quiet One 4000 HH for a return. I have a single Iwaki 100rlt pump
powering a closed-loop manifold, and a Current USA Outer Orbit setup running 2 x
150 watt metal halides and 4 x 54 watt T5’s.
<<Ok>>
The temp is floating around 81 and maxed at 83 before I shut the metal halides
down around 4 pm.
<<Not a problem in my opinion...and is about where my system ranges>>
My major concern is that it isn’t even really hot here yet, and the room the
tank in doesn’t hold air conditioning well.
<<Ah, I see>>
I have a 6-inch fan blowing over the refugium and another blowing over the
surface of the tank and it seems to be doing ok for now, but I think I see a
chiller in my future.
<<Mmm, yes...maybe so>>
I am trying to figure out what size will be able to handle my tank without
constantly being on.
<<Probably best to go by manufacturer recommendations...and if you have the
cash/want the extra capacity, get the next larger model even>>
I have checked the JBJ site that has a calculator for just such a thing and it
is saying the ¼ chiller, but reading the Wet Web FAQ I have seen a 1/5 being
suggested for an 80 Gal. tank.
<<Indeed... I employed an inline (more effective than the “drop-in” style of
the same size I feel) 1/5hp chiller on my previous 80g reef and it was plenty
large enough>>
Also I am torn between brands, do you have an opinion on the Current USA
chillers? I am leaning towards either a JBJ or a Current USA, any other
suggestions?
<<I own a Custom Sea Life (CSL) chiller which has performed flawlessly for more
than five years. CSL is “no more,” but I believe the product line was taken
over by Current USA and thus the chillers they offer may well be the same as the
old CSL models (Bob, please correct me if wrong). As for another brand, the
Aqua Logic in-line chillers are a good choice>>
Thanks,
Randy
<<Regards, EricR>>
- I am in Need of Answers!!!!! -
Good morning Gentlemen,
I stumbled across your site while researching prices for accessories for my new
salt water hobby. I read the various questions and answers and I found your
website to be very informative. However I am going to purchase your book so I
can learn more about the salt water hobby. I am transitioning over from fresh
water with over 10yrs experience and I have found that everyone has a different
opinion about what is best "product" especially if they are the ones
selling the product. <Quite true.> This is my question.
I am purchasing a 150 gallon reef ready tank. I don't know which skimmer to use.
I heard a lot about the Euro Reef and I was told to purchase the ETSS 600
skimmer. I did see the sump I was going to purchase which was the UHF Sump 72
system by AETECH. AETECH had the complete sump and skimmer setup on their site.
I need your opinion as to which skimmer/model to purchase for the size tank I
have. <I'd go with the EuroReef.> I will have live rock etc. I am going to
have North Dallas Aquarium to maintain my tank as I learn more about the hobby.
Also what do you think about the JBJ chiller? Which chiller would you recommend?
<Have no practical experience with chillers - know that some are crap, but
not entirely sure which ones those are. Best to look and ask around on the
forums where you're likely to find several people using chillers.>
Please reply to my personal address so I won't miss what you have to say. I
greatly appreciate your help.
Warren
<Cheers, J -- >
Chillers
Hi,
<Hello there>
Has any body used the “Pacific Coast CL-280 1/10 HP Inline Chiller” or
“Arctica Titanium Chiller (1/10 hp)”.
<Have seen these, not used them>
I need to purchase a chiller soon and
I could not make a decision between these two chillers. Arctica is little
bit more expensive then CL-280 but that does not matter. I have some info
about the Arctica Chiller but I could not find any detailed info about
CL-280. I need a good chiller that can hold the temp and not fluctuates all
the time because of the room temp.
Currently I have “Teco Micro Chiller”, which I had for 1 ½ years and right
now it fluctuates between 76F in the morning to 83F in the evening.
<... this is too much>
Actual
water temp is between 76F to 81F. It used to be better but it is getting
worse every day. I cleaned it every three month but it does not make a
difference, my fishes are stressed out every night.
<I'd write the manufacturer here... there may be some user-friendly repair...>
Please help me to decide. I will need to order one soon.
Thanks,
Hans
<With such gear issues it's best to "cast your net" far and wide for input. Try
posting your question, lurking for others inputs on the BBs like ReefCentral,
Reefs.org... to get a survey of actual users, other possibilities. Bob Fenner>
Reef Recommendations
Hey Scott ("Captain"- what's that all about please do tell?),
<Really bad "Star Trek" reference....>
Again, thanks for your recommendation and prompt response. Do you think that I
may need a Chiller, or can I get away with fans with 2X 250 watt HQI's?
<Honestly, I think that a chiller is a really good idea. You can try the fans,
but that's a lot of heat put out by those bulbs in a small space, so a chiller
will do a better job.>
I do have a Canopy, what brand should I buy?
<I'd look into the JBJ Arctica chillers. As far as MH systems are concerned,
there are so many different brands to choose from...Consider those made by Aqua
Medic, PFO, and Sunlight Supply. All are good ones.>
Thanx, Marlon
<A pleasure! Regards, Scott F.>
Chiller and Filter reviews 8/2/05
Anthony, Thanks for such a prompt response. I will
review the website you mentioned more thoroughly,
One of our consultants on the Sitka aquarium is a
biologist with the Dept. of Fish and Game who
maintains a tank for the elementary school.
Hopefully his input will keep us within any specimen
collection regulations that apply. I don't even know
what a Cnidarian is, but will quiz Troy about it.
<Sparing you the google search for definition... this
is the group of stinging organisms that include
corals, anemones, polyps, e.g..>
BTW, have you completed the review of the TradeWind
chillers?
<I have indeed reviewed and critiqued the unit... the
construct and operation are very fine. I am sending
along suggestions for improvement on their product
brochure for clarity>
We are looking seriously at that particular unit, but
would love to read your review before committing to
such a purchase.
<Seem to be made very well... so far, reliable
operation with not the slightest complaint. Indeed..
there is some noise and heat with most any chiller.
This unit is not especially bad about either at all>
Any reviews out there on Jeff's Berlin Lifereef sump
system?
<None that I have seen>
It is expensive, but it looks like a well designed,
thought-through unit. Kris
<I'm not one for over-engineered designs (DIY or
otherwise) for what is or at least should be simple
components of the system. FWIW. Anthony>
Chiller recommendation 7/30/05
Just wondering if you guys could help with a chiller recommendation. We've
had a reef tank for 7 years its approximately 160 gal ,metal halides (2) and
lots of pumps
Our 2stage inline chiller is not working properly anymore,
and we need to make a decision soon.......
<I strongly favor inline (never drop-in) for efficiency, and am very happy with
the construct and performance of my Tradewind:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=597821&highlight=chiller
Also what temperature would you consider optimum for a reef tank with some fish
as well?
<I like 78-80F for tropicals Best regards, Anthony Calfo>
Temperature Control in Reef Aquaria 12/17/05
Hi Adam, I need your advice again.
<That’s what I’m here for, hello again Jerry.>
The Outer Orbit lights work great!
<Glad you like it.>
But my tank is now running hot 82.4 degrees with room temp of 72 degrees. I was
looking at Pacific Coast 1/10 chiller or Artica Titanium 1/10 or
Current/Prime 1/10. Any thoughts on these brands or size on a 125 Acrylic.
<On a 125 I would go with at least the 1/5 or ¼. Smaller chillers seem to be
perpetually “ON” and thus even though they are smaller, end up using a lot more
energy. As far as brands look into the Titanium Artica made by JBJ.>
(120# live rock, 4" sand bed, unknown size wet/dry sump, Top Fathom Skimmer
and Little Giant 4-MDQ-SC rated at 810 gallons at 3feet). I do have air
conditioning for the house in summer but we usually set it at 78 degrees so
I'm thinking a chiller is needed.
<Also consider some fans blowing across the surface of the sump or display.>
Could I use the sump/skimmer pump for the
chiller?
<You can, personally I didn’t want my return pump being obstructed by other
media (I wanted to get the biggest “bang” out of it), so for that reason I used
another pump to put the chiller on a closed loop.>
Should I place the chiller in the stand or mount it on the basement
wall below the tank?
<They are VERY noisy, place it as far away from you as possible, I keep mine in
a shed outside.>
Thanks again for your help, Jerry
<No problem, Adam J.>
Sizing A Chiller - 01/21/06
Hello WWM,
<<Hello Mike>>
This is my first post on this web site and hopefully you can help me out.
<<I'll try>>
I have an 80 gallon saltwater fish tank and will be getting coral
soon. Basically my setup will be two 175 watt Hamilton MH and maybe two 65watt
actinics, mostly LPS. They will be about 12 inches off of the water and I will
have 4 fans in the canopy. My water temperature got to about 88F in the summer
so I know I will need some sort of cooling method.
<<Mmm, yes...a bit high.>>
I was looking at the 1/10 hp JBJ Arctica or the 1/10 hp Pacific Coast chiller.
<<I fear these will be too small for your system.>>
Will this be sufficient enough for my tank?
<<No>>
If not what do you recommend?
<<I was able to keep an 80 gallon in-wall tank (w/2x 175w MH) cool with a 1/5 hp
inline chiller...should also work for you.>>
I'm kinda on a tight budget.
<<All the more reason to get it right the first time.>>
I also know someone that is selling a 1/4 hp JBJ chiller but not sure how old it
really is. I doesn't say JBJ or Arctica anywhere on it. Was it not always
called that?
<<I can't say.>>
It says something like fish cooler.
<Hmm...>>
He is selling it for $375. He said that it's about 1 1/2 yrs old.
<<Well Mike, would depend on how well you know this other chap I suppose...is up
to you... but for a little less than $200 more you can get a new (and under
warranty) 1/5 hp Arctica chiller...something to consider.>>
Here are some photos.
<<I couldn't get the photos to come up.>>
The help is much appreciated
Mike
<<Regards, EricR>>
Chillers, Absolutely Quiet…..Only When Off - 5/7/2006
I have a 75 gallon salt water aquarium in my living room.
<Cool.>
Would you please give me a list of chillers that are reliable and are
SUPER QUIET.
<Hmmm, well my friend, chillers operate much like a refrigerator, yes some are
more more reliable and quieter, better if you will, than other but none emit
zero noise. My solution was to construct a cabinet for my chiller out of 2”
Thick Solid Teak and line it with “weather-proofing” material, anyways here is a
list of favorable chillers:
**JBJ Artica (This is what I use)
**AquaLogic
**Pacific Coast
**Teclima
**Aquanetics
Check those out…>
The chiller that I have had for the past six years has been reliable but is
noisy.
<They are all relatively noisy, especially in larger models, another thing with
chillers is that small unit are always on because their cycles last longer,
larger, over sized units will stay on much shorter because they don’t need as
long a cycle to cool the water.>
Thanks for your help. Dennis Rohrer.
<Anytime, Adam J.>
Peltier cooling idea 11/22/06
I last sent a post, Tank cooling prob.s 9/29/06
I have given up using Freon type cooling as it is too expensive on the power
bill.
<Mmm, only one of quite a few technologies...>
If I get lucky and am able to find a 12volt Freon car fridge I will certainly
use it.
<Well... these have dismal efficiencies...>
I have recently found four Peltier
<Ahh:
http://www.heatsink-guide.com/peltier.htm>
TECs and some thick (6mm) copper sheets and thick copper wiring I will use as a
porcupine heat sink for the Peltiers. These Peltiers were taken from old car
fridges that run on 12vdc, 10amps.
<Yikes... more than a tenth of a kilowatt per hour... if they run continuously,
more than 2 kw per day each... In California and HI (where I'm most familiar)
this would come out to more than fifty cents per day... per unit>
The power supply I use will be 2 ATX power boxes used in computers and are
capable of 400w at 240v, outputting 12vdc at 10amps under load with one ATX box
running two Peltiers. My experiment in cooling 2 litres using just two Peltiers
was proven successful as the Peltiers cooled the water from 27 degrees
centigrade to 12C in under an hour using only aluminium as a heat sink and
cooling element. My problem is that I need a non-corrosive barrier between the
cooling side of the Peltier and my salt water sump.
<Yes... likely a thinner (thermally) tubing of determinate length, immersed in
a/this liquid bath... a pumping source to recirculate the system water through
this tubing>
To maintain direct cooling efficiency, with minimal power consumption, I have
decided to go this way instead of the insert plastic tubing into cold water
method.
<Mmm... okay>
I have seen on EBay some sheets of titanium that may do the trick for this
barrier I need between the cooling Peltier element and the saltwater I want to
cool. Is titanium totally uncorrosive in saltwater or should I be looking out
for percentage of titanium relative to impurities added.
<Pure/r Titanium is used as jacketing in many consumer/commercial coolers...>
At the moment I am looking at onlinemetals.com and they have titanium grade 2 at
99.3%Ti and the only major impurity at 0.3% is Fe (iron). The thickness is just
over 1mm and it is 12x12 inches as a sheet.. What are your thoughts on this
crazy idea?
<Well... I would still use the immersion bath, tubing transfer method... in an
insulated container myself... The cost of the Ti, welding... is too high to suit
me... but a worthwhile adventure for sure. Bob Fenner>
Inquiry: chillers
Dear sir/madam,
We have found your address at internet, we are interested in dealing with a Water
Cooler supplier.
So please provide us with your catalog or price list of all kinds of Office and
home use Coolers you supply.
We are waiting for your kind reply.
Best Regards...
Nabil Da'is
Jordan bearing city
<We don't sell chillers, water coolers, but do list companies that do on our
links pages on the site: www.WetWebMedia.com. Bob Fenner>
CHILLER QUESTION
Hi there, Bob
<Howdy>
Sascha here with a quick question, Custom Sealife chiller or Aqua Logics
chiller, they are about the same price, but I like the size of the Custom Sea
life better and I know you like the Aqua logics. Should I get drop in or inline
for my two connected systems??
<Definitely in-line and I would choose the CSL unit>
My new tank is coming in 3 weeks(190g corner tank) and I love shopping.
<I as well>
So my total water volume should be around 330g for both systems combined through
wall) and I'll get the 1/3 hp.
<Hmm, well... what's the "draw down?" How many degrees from ambient
do you think you might want/need to lower the temperature? Take a look at the
Aquanetics site (link on WWM) at their chart for this purpose... the tanks are
in your business near the coast? Is the room itself air-conditioned all the
time? You might want something more like a half HP>
Thank you again and don't forget to come for a haircut, hahaha.
<Don't laugh or scream... the wife took my old Wahl clippers to try and
straighten up what I'd wrought... can't stand to lose too many more handsome or
style points>
I am looking out my salon window everyday for a guy in a fish shirt and a hat.
take care and good to know you are always there to help
<Be chatting. Bob Fenner>
SASCHA
Nano-reef chiller
Dear Mr. Fenner,
You were very helpful in a previous question about a ten-gal nano reef
skimmer. I have another question for you. I live in Hawaii, home of the
coral reefs. Unfortunately, the temp (even with evaporative cooling) has been
noted in my freshwater ten-gal at 82, 84, and even 86 degrees. I assume I
will need a chiller for my new saltwater 10-gallon. There is a product
called the CoolWork's IceProbe costing $100. It is a micro chiller that uses
a cooling probe inserted through the bottom of a tank. It has been designed
for approx 10 gal aquariums, and the manufacturer says that it "directly
converts electricity to cooling power". Have you ever used this product, do
you recommend it, and should I get one (or some other chiller)?
Thank you very much for you advice
<I've seen this product at a couple of trade shows (the business side of the
pet-fish interest)... am concerned about the lack of a controller (you can buy,
make one) with this "continuously on" chiller on such a small volume
of water. If you do intend to use this unit, do secure/use a controller. Bob
Fenner>
Nano-reef chiller
Hi Bob,
PF again throwing in my spare change... ; )
RC has an article about using one of these Iceprobe Chillers in a HOT
filter. Given that my lighting pushes my temp up to 84F(and probably
over), and the fan I have to cool it blocks off the view of the tank, I
think I'll be doing one of these myself.
here's the url:
http://www.reefcentral.com/library/reviews/IceProbe/default.htm
<Thanks for this. Bob Fenner>
HTH,
PF
Custom Sealife vs. AQUANETICS Chillers
Looking for a personal opinion...Custom Sealife vs. AQUANETICS Drop in Chillers
which is better for saltwater and why?
<drop in chillers are very limited in their scope of ability (pull down from
ambient versus flow thru... I personally would avoid all drop in styles for a
more efficient flow through style if at all possible! The plumbing for a flow
through is ridiculously easy... I see little trouble for most people. Besides...
a drop in further requires that the unit be near the tank display that needs
cooled down; what an incredible waster of energy for the heat they produce in
the same room that requires the tank be cooled down! And all chillers are
ideally mounted/plumbed from a remote room where the heat generated by the
chiller is moot>
Duplex stainless steel vs. Titanium
<Titanium will outlast/outlive stainless steel in most every application.
Best regards, Anthony>
Chillers
Greetings Bob
I have a quick question for you. I have a 55 gal reef. I am having problems with
temperature and am looking in to a chiller. Have you or your cohorts heard
anything about the "Ice Probe Thermo-Electric Chiller"? The price is
hard to beat but is it worth it? Please pass along anything you may have
heard.
Thanks in advance.
Ron
<I have seen this unit at a few trade-shows in the last few years, but never
used it. According to its re-sellers it is capable of a draw down of 20 degrees
F of ten gallons in an insulated container... Not much of a pull... as your
system is much larger, not-insulated... but for only a 50 watt power
consumption, and maybe you're only looking for a slight thermal reduction... it
might be worth trying. Otherwise, a simple "fan blowing across the
surface" of the tanks water would likely produce the same reduction. Bob
Fenner>
Re: Calcium Reactors in Australia (and expensive chillers!)
Hi Bob,
I have placed an order for the Dupla reactor and now keenly await its
arrival.
A piece of information that I thought you might find of interest and
perhaps Diana as well. I asked the supplier of the reactor about the
availability of Korallith media. He informed me that he had tried to
access it but Australian quarantine forbids its importation (do not know
on what basis, now making further enquiries). Could not see how it Ca
reactor media would pose a risk, but our country has some pretty tight
restrictions.
<Me neither... will forward to Di and Ralf and Daniel in Germany>
I have another question for you, this time about chillers. I am planning
to install a chiller on my tank before this summer season. Our average
maximum temps for about half of the year sit at around 35oC. Not the
ideal climate to live in for a mini-reef enthusiast. In the past I have
air-conditioned the room but relying on an air conditioner (on a timer)
for 14 hours a day 6 months a year is a bit much. With a chiller I
should be able to reduce this significantly to just the hottest part of
the day and the middle summer months. Having the two units together when
we are away is also a better fail safe.
<Sounds like a good plan>
I have been trying to do some research on brands but have been able to
find out little about the models available in Australia. My options in
Australia are
- Teco Chiller/ RA680 will cool 800L by 10 degrees C below ambient room
temp. Cost $2020 complete with thermostat. Italian Made (I think).
<Yes, a good unit>
- Sfiligoi Chiller Big Flite will cool 750L by 15 degrees C below
ambient room temp. Cost $2100 complete with thermostat. Italian Made.
<Also an allegedly well-made unit>
- Resun 0.6 hp chiller will cool 750L by 12 degrees C below ambient room
temp. Cost not sure but assuming $1800-$2000 complete with thermostat.
Asian Made.
<Don't know about this product>
- Aquasonic Aqualogic chiller 1/3 hp will cool 700L by 7-8oC below
ambient room temp. Cost approximately $2000 complete with thermostat.
<Yikes... even with the improvement recently in the Austr. dollar?>
All units come with a 12 month guarantee.
My question is which one??????
My system holds about 700 litre and has Halide lighting (another source
of heat). My preference at this stage is for the Sfiligoi Chiller Big
Flite due to its cost vs. cooling capacity. These units are normally
$2600 but the agent in Australia has a winter special at the moment for
$2100. The components in contact with water in this unit is 316
stainless steel which I am told is completely safe for marine aquaria
(not sure about this anti-corrosion claim). The Teco which would be my
second choice at this stage has platinum (I think) components but has a
less cooling capacity than the Big Flite.
<I agree with your choices>
I have not been able to find much information on any of these brands
apart from manufacturer specifications that all claim their unit is the
biggest and best for aquarium use (how could they claim anything else?).
Teco are common in Australia and apparently reliable. I have been told
by one dealer that Resun were junk (he is selling other brand of
course). I think Aqua medic may have a brand available but the cost is
much higher than all the other units and only have same cooling
capacity.
So I am at a loss as to which one? It is a lot of cash to shell out but
given our climate, the value of my livestock and the expense of running
an air conditioner and fan which is only a stop gap measure (tank still
goes up and down by 3 degrees in summer 25.5-28.5oC) and if the timer or
air conditioner ever failed (real possibility) I would lose the whole
tank. I tried a couple of DIY projects using an old freezer and then a
fridge both were ineffective.
<Agreed... not worth the time, trouble in your sort of setting (draw down,
volume, type of system>
However I don't want to buy a brand that is junk or will die within a
couple of years.
Which brand do you suggest? Is the Big Flite any good.
I look forward to your comments. It is really fantastic that you make
your experience available to fellow hobbyists. Much appreciated.
Cheers
Paul Grundy
<Paul, do try the various chatforums in your part of the world, get a take on
the actual experiences of end-users/consumers. Ours: http://WetWebFotos.com/talk/
won't likely have folks with experience with these makes/models, but worth a
try. Bob Fenner>
Chilling Out!
Several Months ago in summer, I purchased an Aquatherm Chiller/Heater from
Flying Fish Express <<Now out of biz.>> thinking it would maintain the chosen temperature of 77
degrees F. by merely setting the thermostat to same and it would switch as
necessary between heat and chill automatically. No, you have to manually change
it over several times a year depending upon the ambient temperature. Is there
such a device made and finally what is your evaluation of the Aquatherm in
comparison to other brands? Thank You for your valued advice and
opinions. Stephen Pace.
<I personally have no experience with the Aquatherm brand. You may want to
post on the wetwebmedia.com chat forum to get your fellow hobbyists' opinions on
the product. I have used the Medusa dual stage temperature controller with good
results. plug in your heater and chiller to the unit, and set the desired
temperature. The unit energizes either the heater or chiller as needed to
maintain the desired temperature. There are other manufacturers making this type
of unit, too. Do check our sponsors' web sites for availability and pricing.
Good luck! Regards, Scott F>
Just Chillin'...
Does anyone have any real experience with either the Artica chiller by JBJ,
Premier Chillers, or the Aqua Medic chillers. I am probably going to need a new
chiller for my 500 gal. reef tank. Noise is DEFINITE consideration as my wife
hates any noise coming out of my aquarium room.
<I can understand that>
Am considering a 1/3 or 1/2 hp chiller.
<I'd go with the 1/2 hp>
At present, I have a 1/4 hp West Coast Aquatics chiller which is about 11 years
old. I replaced the compressor about 7 years ago and is now starting to give me
cooling problems again. Live in Houston, summers are tough, and my temp. is
starting to get to 80 degrees with metal halide and compact fluo. light on daily.
Price on the Aqua Medic and Premier chillers seem rather cheap for the 1/2 hp
compared to Aqua Logic. Any info. you might have will be appreciated. Thanks,
Harold
<Well, Harold, I have not had personal experiences with either one of those
models. I'd put out a post on the WWM chat forum to see if any fellow hobbyists
are using these units. One caveat, of course- the least expensive model is not
always the best one. Since your chiller is an important component of your
system, you need to make sure that it is a reliable one, with a good long-term
track record. Sorry I couldn't provide more specific information on these units,
but I think you get the idea! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>
- Chiller? - Iceprobe
Hello Guys,
<Good morning, JasonC here.>
Great site, I have learned much and have a very successful 55 reef tank. <Glad
to hear it.> Much of it due to your help. Deep sand bed, frequent
water changes etc. I digress. I am a bit concerned about the heat of
my aquarium. Are you familiar with a product called cool works ice
probe? <Yes.> Look a bit gimmicky, but I don't need too much help, just
maybe 4-6 degrees in a 55 gallon tank during the day. <I don't think this
device will do it for you on a tank of this size.> I was wondering if it is a
useable product. <On much smaller tanks, yes.> One more thing, I would
like to install it into my refugium instead of my tank itself. I have
the 18 inch CPR hang on, and frankly would rather drill into that than my
aquarium. <Do-able, but not advised... again, consider something a little
larger - there are other, larger chillers on the market now that use the same
thermo-electric devices as the Ice Probe and are capable of handling a tank of
your size.> Any suggestions would help. Thanks.
<Cheers, J -- >
Chilling, chillers
Dear Bob,
<Howdy>
Please allow me to apologize for my far less than friendly attitude expressed in
my first email to you. One of my many faults in getting angry when
I am frustrated. I do have the means to contain myself. Like
a computer, garbage in , garbage out.
<No worries>
An WWM article some where mentioned the
word 'tidepool'. This is as close as I have been able to get to the
topic on the Web, or the library. I guess I will have to think reef,
and make adjustments. The problem with the chiller thing, is it's a deal breaker. Sort
of pumping salt water round and round through the filter, I can't get started
without one. Don't have a tank yet anyway, too many questions.
<Good to have>
My attempts to get to 'ozreef.com' have
not been successful. Is there more to the URL? Am I
looking for apples in the turnip store?
<Sorry re. The URL is: http://www.ozreef.org/>
1 HP = 746 watts, but how much cold, daaahhhh. BTU
= 1b of water changed one degree F. Will I need to know
more? Folks selling tanks plus gear are offering 1/6 HP
chillers with 75g tanks. No good? I think salesmen are the wrong guys
to ask, but don't know the right guys. If I
<Do see the chart on Aquanetics chart: http://www.aquanetics.com/pdf%20files/fluid_chiller_asc_adic_1-4.pdf>
could afford to pay, a refrigeration engineer, I could buy a chiller. Fish
store guys with 75 degree livestock know I will be buying very little from them.
I will have to make my own live rock and sand.
<And livestock too?>
Your living accommodations sound like what I grew up in. People
with the garage doors live on the lake. They may own chiller
companies. If titanium can be welded to copper, I
can find someone to do it for me. I will be farming out several
things I don't know squat about.
<You are wise here. No welding these dissimilar metals as far as I know>
I caught tidepool mini monsters as a child, and took them home in a can, they
died. I shot a bird with BB gun, it died. That's enough great white
hunter for me. To keep them alive and 'happy' is a better
goal. Leaving them where they are is a higher goal, but
gee whiz Mom, a guys gotta have somthin' to do.
<Yes... to err as in to wander/wonder is human... many other possibilities...
making pictures, writing, telling stories...>
Any thoughts about reliable methods of keeping 100gal of water at
about 60 degrees forever would be greatly appreciated. Thank
you, and thank goodness for WWM.com
<Really, the only consistent, reliable method (barring a thermal sink in
areas where the ground is cold year round) is to employ a compressor type
expansion, heat exchange... chiller unit, with a thermostatic mechanism. Bob
Fenner>
Terry Southwell
-Mystery chiller-
Hello, I have a product question. I have a chance to buy a 1/3HP for about
$300.00. <Whoa, that's pretty cheap> A friend of mine has to sell off all
his fish and supplies because he owes people money. Don't take up gambling,
could lose your fish. <Haha, made a mental note> The only problem I have
with this chiller is that I can't find anything about it on the internet. It
says TUNG.FA on it and it is a model TF-400B. I was wondering if you have ever
heard of this. <Nope, never. I had no luck on any forums or search
engines.> Didn't It is brand new still in the box. It comes with a
controller. I think he also said it was a chiller and a heater. Mainly want to
know if it is quiet. <There's no instruction manual? I would buy it, if it's
the appropriate size. It is also important to note that all chillers are loud,
especially larger ones like this. I hope this helps, somehow! -Kevin> Any
help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Marty
Chiller vs. Fans 8/30/05
Hi, I have a 100 gallon aquarium with a 30 gallon sump. I would like to
replace my fans with a chiller. Without the fans, the aquarium can easily reach
temperatures exceed 90 degrees. With all four 12" fans running on high 24/7, the
temperature stay at 78 degrees. So the chiller would have to be able to drop the
temperature about 15 degrees. Maybe a 1/4 hp chiller or perhaps a 1/3 hp?
<The one third... better to have a bit more chilling capacity than too little>
Also, I know that some brands are more efficient so some 1/4 hp chillers might
cool better then some 1/3 hp chiller.
<Yes>
I also need a quite chiller so if you could recommend one for me I would
appreciate it. Thanks, Andy
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/chillersmar.htm
and the FAQs 2 file linked above. Bob Fenner>
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