|
| |
|
FAQs about the Diseases of Clownfishes 17
Related FAQs: Clownfish Disease 1,
Diseases of Clownfishes 2, Diseases
of Clownfishes 3, Clownfish Disease 4, Clownfish
Disease 5, Clownfish Disease 6, Clownfish
Disease 7, Clownfish Disease 8,
Clownfish Disease 9,
Clownfish Disease 10, Clownfish
Disease 11, Clownfish Disease 12,
Clownfish Disease 13,
Clownfish Disease 14,
Clownfish Disease 15,
Clownfish Disease 16,
Clownfish Disease 18,
Clownfish Disease 19,
Clownfish Disease 20, & FAQs on Clownfish
Disease By: Environmental Stress,
Nutrition,
Social/Behavioral/Territoriality,
Trauma/Mechanical Injury, & Pathogens: Lymphocystis,
Infectious Disease (Bacteria, Fungi...), Protozoans:
Cryptocaryon/Ich,
Amyloodinium/Velvet, Brooklynella (see
article below), & Mysteries/Anomalous Losses,
Cure, Success Stories, &
Clownfishes in General,
Clownfish Identification, Clownfish
Selection, Clownfish Compatibility, Clownfish
Behavior, Clownfish
Systems, Clownfish Feeding, Clownfishes
and Anemones, Breeding
Clowns,
Related Articles: Clownfish
Disease, Clownfishes,
Maroon Clowns, Marine
Disease, Brooklynellosis,
|

Other, fast moving fishes being present may
over-stress your clowns if the system is too small.
Halichoeres pictus (Steindachner 1867), the Rainbow
Wrasse.
|
Black patches
on clownfish pair 9/20/07
Hi - it's a pleasure to rediscover this site.
<Welcome back>
I have a pair of percula clownfish who have developed black patches
during the past year. They show no symptoms of distress. Indeed, for a
long time I assumed that this was just a pigment issue (the black areas
on the female have gradually expanded over the years).
<Some such marks come and go on Amphiprionines>
Now, after a plumbing problem two weeks ago, emptying the main tank and
housing my four fish in three small tanks during reconstruction, I have
been looking more closely. I have searched your site and elsewhere on
the web but have found nothing specific. One message mentioned black
patches but it was not followed up.
Any ideas?
<From your pic, these look like random spots of melanization... I don't
think they're pathogenic, nor do I know a means of "treating",
eliminating them>
The clowns are now in an AquaPod (24g) with their two Entacmaea
quadricolor anemones (one that cloned)
<Yikes... these anemones need much more room than this>
and plenty of tiny worms and brittle stars.
The old system was a 125g with an ecosystem type sump and about 100
pounds of live rock. Ammonia and nitrates have long been undetectable
but nitrates were getting high in that tank.
In six years, there was no disease in that tank, which was always
underpopulated (five small fish, a couple of soft corals, zoanthids,
etc.).
Everybody either came with the rock or was quarantined before going in.
The critters that were in the tank at the beginning are all still there,
nobody has been added but some snails about three years ago.
Any ideas?
<Could be that the Bubble tips are somehow stressing the Clowns...>
And thanks again for your superb efforts.
Malcolm
<Thank you for your kind words and sharing. Bob Fenner> |
|
 |
Clown fish
problem ID - please help. Growth on a Clown 9/20/07
Hello Crew,
<Hi>
I am very new to the hobby - only 7 weeks into it so far. I've been
reading the WWM quite a bit in the past week - lots of great
information, thank you! Unfortunately I've discovered it a bit too late
- several of my purchases/decisions weren't too great :(
<You are not alone here I assure you.>
Tank parameters:
RedSea Max Nano, 34g, 3-3.5" Aragalive Live Sand bed, 31 lb of live rock
Temperature: 80 F
SG: 1.025 (refractometer-measured)
pH - 8.0
Alkalinity - 2.4 Meq/l
Calcium - 440
Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate - undetectable
15% water change weekly
<Sounds nice.>
I set it up, let it cycle for about 3 weeks until
ammonia/nitrite/nitrate went to 0, added snails (6 Astrea, 6 Trochus, 3
Cerith) and hermits (8 blue-legged). My only loss so far was one Astrea
- I found one hermit wearing his shell one day.
<Common end for many snails in captivity.>
About 10 days ago I've purchased my first fish - two clowns (A.
Ocellaris, I believe) from the LFS. Not understanding the virtues of the
QT at the time, I've added them in right after acclimating.
<Learned this lesson I bet.>
About 5 days later I've noticed whitish spots on both. But time went on
(10 days now) and the only change is that spots grew and became larger,
my understanding is that the ich would've gone though its cycle by now.
<Yes, doubtful Ich is the culprit here.>
Can you please help ID the problem and recommend treatment? I am
attaching pictures - hopefully they're large enough.
<Tough to say, my first guess would be Lymphocystis, check out here and
see if you think it fits. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/lymphfaqs.htm .>
Everyone is doing great so far - swimming, eating with gusto and colors
seem ok. Water seems fine - I am seeing a wide variety of tiny tube
worms - they are open all the way and seem to be enjoying themselves.
<The variety of life in an aquarium is staggering.>
Please help!
Thank you!
<Might want to try a cleaner shrimp here, although often clowns do not
actually let the shrimp clean them.>
<Chris> |
|
 |
True Percula question,
hlth. mostly 8/23/07
Hi! Thanks for all the great info on your site, It has helped me alot
<No such word>
in my experience with Reefing!
<Ah, good>
Here is my situation, I recently bought a pair of mated true percula clowns.
I had initially placed these fish on hold in the LFS due to my leaving town
and that I had no room for a QT tank. So they spent a week there in the LFS
system (they claim to run a low level of copper to treat ich).
<Mmm, such "low levels" (less than a constant physiological dose... let's
say under 0.15 ppm free cupric ion or equivalent) do naught but poison
livestock>
So I thought this was a preventative measure.
<Ah, no... only serve/s to weaken hosts... but does keep more fishes alive
to sell, pass on their parasites...>
I then came in to pick up the clowns and the male would not eat very well.
So they said they would treat them for 5 days with an antibiotic dip.
<? No.>
Treatment over, I watched them both eat like pigs, so I brought them home
and now they are happy in my tank....
Here is my question, I have noticed on the male, that a couple of his fins,
have streaks of missing color, and this is new. I do occasionally notice the
female nipping at the male, but I don't want to miss read an illness and
lose a nice pair of clowns. Am I missing something?
<Doesn't seem like it, no>
There are no spots on the clowns, no heavy breathing, eating well. All
parameters are within normal limits (pH, temp, ammonia, Nitrite, nitrate,
Ca, and Alk). They are in a 20H tank with approx 20 lbs of LR and a 20L
sump.
<Wild Percula Clowns need more room than this... and frequently have
"residual" health issues as you relate>
Thanks again for all the help!
Seth
<Please re-read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/part2.htm
the bottom of the page... Bob Fenner>
Sick Clownfish?
8/22/07
Hi Crew,
<Annie>
Just a quick but urgent question for you tonight. One of my ocellaris of 6
years developed two white spots: one just behind the first white bar and the
other just behind the second white bar. That was two days ago. Today/this
morning, the white "spots" weren't there but I noticed that area turned a
fuzzy whitish and has migrated over the top/back of the ocellaris as well as
toward the middle area. I've gone thru some of your FAQ and it's not ich.
<Agreed... likely equivalent to an "owee" or pimple in humans...>
Please advise as to whether I should remove it to a quarantine tank and
treat immediately and with what?
<I would spiff up the system where it is... water change, add carbon, clean
the skimmer... and leave the animal where it is>
My tank params as follows: 60 gal, SG 1.025, pH
8.0, temp 76.5 - 78.5 degrees, KH 11.0, Alk. 4.0. I have a skimmer going
27/7. Thank you for your help.
Annie
<Welcome. BobF>
Black
Clownfish has "mouth rot"? 8/22/07
I posted this on the forum but can't post the pictures there.
<... on WWF? Unusual>
I have two black clownfish in our 120 gal reef aquarium. Other fish
we have are firefish, blue tang, coral beauty, royal Gramma,
Mandarin dragonet, a purple filefish (I don't remember what its
called.) a bunch of turbo snails, an Anenome (I think its a Sebae)
See pictures.
<Mmm, read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm>
We just had our water professionally tested and its all fine. We
even tested our calcium levels, which are perfect.
<This subjective evaluation means nothing to me...>
My problem is this: one of my clownfish's lips appear to be rotting
off. Its mouth is always open and it can't feed. It pretty much
always stays near the Anenome, (which the clownfish just discovered
two days ago) The other one seems to be protecting it from the other
fish, but we've never seen any other fish attack it. We've had the
fish for only two weeks, they are tank raised.
<Mmmm>
I thought that maybe the clownfish are fighting for dominance,
because they are very close in size, about 2", but the one seems to
be protecting the injured one.
<... I wonder.>
I took some pictures, but I don't know how well they turned out
being at the injured fish stays close to the Anenome, which is in
the back of the tank. I didn't know how to make them smaller, but
they are in jpg format.
Any advice would be appreciated on this matter.
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnfshdisart.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Re: Black Clownfish has "mouth
rot"? 9/1/07
Thank you for your answer, but I had already read both of those
articles prior to asking this question, and neither had an answer to
my dilemma.
It's been a few days and although my second clown died (not the one
with the mouth rot) the one with the mouth rot has healed and is
doing fine. I've come to my own conclusion that because they were
both so large and of similar size, they were fighting for dominance
(and who would in the end, become female) and the dominant one
killed the other one.
<Could be>
We've ordered 4 smaller false Percs to add to the tank. The
clownfish is ecstatic in her Anenome and wouldn't remove it for the
world.
Thanks again.
<Welcome... In future, I strongly encourage you to avoid
wild-collected Amphiprionines... the captive-produced ones are much
hardier, and easy-going. Bob Fenner> |
|
Looks like a genetic deformity to RMF. |
Clown Fish disease URGENT
8/6/07
HI BOB: Thanks again for all your help. I have reviewed all your pages
<Wowzah!>
and want to be sure I am treating my clownfish correctly. I have 2 black
clown fish in my 55 gallon tank.
<Wild-collected? Quarantined? Treated how thus far?>
I also have 2 Anthias, 5 snails, 12 hermits, live rock and a live sand bed
and several corals. My water is good (ph 8.1, ammonia O, nitrates 0, alk
9.0, phosphates 0). I am running a chiller that keeps the temp stable at
around 78 degrees. My clownfish have each developed small (less than 1mm)
white patches on the front of their dorsal fin and the underlying tissue
seems to disappearing. One of them has also developed a very small white
patch on its underbelly. Behaviourally, they seem as energetic as ever and
seem to be eating fine. They have had the spots for about one week. It does
not look to me like Ich, the white is not in specks and is not all over the
fish, just these distinct areas. In addition to your site, I visited the
national fish pharmacy site and based on both, was wondering if this could
be some type of fin rot?
<?... is a symptom... not a cause... Like your having a "cough"... many
probable etiologies>
I have set up a hospital tank following your guidelines and am hoping you
could advise me as to treatment? NFP has a product called Fungus Pro I was
thinking of using -do you have any other suggestions?
<Yes, but all are posted>
I really like these little guys and I don't want to lose them. Please can
you help? Much appreciated...
BTW, my anthias do not seem to be at all infected. Thanks again - Lindsey.
<Please (re) read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/clnfshdisart.htm
and the linked files above and in place where you lead yourself. Bob Fenner>
Clown Fish disease URGENT
Part 2 8/6/07
Hi Bob: I have been scanning WWM all day for help with the problem I emailed
you about earlier - namely, the fact that I am incapable of identifying what is
causing the spotting/rotting on my 2 black clowns. There are many LFS here in
Los Angeles (but I would love to have a local recommendation/endorsement, if you
have one) so I visited the one that has consistently given me the least
inaccurate advice. They advised a combination of Mardel's Coppersafe and
Mardel's Maracyn-Two, so I have started on that program. I still need to get a
copper test kit, but the store had closed by the time I remembered, so I'll pick
one up tomorrow, but I did follow the directions pretty slavishly.
<Good>
My hospital tank is a 12 gallon Eclipse (with the carbon removed from the
filter) and the clowns seem fine in there and are active and eating. In the
stark light of the empty tank, I can clearly see how their dorsals have been
eaten away where the white spots were, and there is another white spot I hadn't
noticed previously on one of the fish's side fins. A couple of things I failed
to mention in my last post: I feed them twice daily with frozen mysis and some
brine shrimp, as well as a product called arcti-pods from Reef Nutrition. Also,
before I put the chiller on the tank, there was a period of about one week where
the tank temp exceeded 84 degrees. There were no wild fluctuations, because it
didn't cool off much at night, but the tank was too hot for the corals so I put
a chiller on it.
I didn't quarantine the fish and am always always ALWAYS going to quarantine in
future - they had been in the main tank for one month without any problems. So
some questions?
- am I on the right track with the Coppersafe/Maracyn?
<Is one of a series of "shotgun" approaches... But a good one... and w/o
microscopic exam....>
- how long do I keep them in the QT?
<Not quarantine, but trtmt. now... Depending on what you think you may be
treating for, two weeks...>
- the Coppersafe says it is a one time treatment,
<Really?>
but do I add more with water changes?
<Please... see WWM re copper use... http://wetwebmedia.com/curatuse.htm
and the linked files above>
or do I start to take it out of the water with carbon, and, if so, when?
I have read tons and tons of stuff, but it is still confusing to a beginner -
and since you have denied me my Mandarin (heh heh) I must be able to hang on to
my clowns.
Please help!!!! Thanks so much. BTW -Is there a donation or something I can
make? It seems that you give a lot of great advice for free, and if you have a
charity or cause I would love to donate in appreciation. Lindsey.
<Our Amazon "begging bowl" is at the bottom of each page. RMF>
Percula
Clown with Lip Deterioration, great pix... 8/4/07
My Percula has been experiencing some trouble with his bottom
lip. He was the first fish put into a new reef tank two weeks ago.
The tank was set up and the live rock cycled before putting him in:
Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates - all 0. These are currently at the same
levels, as well as Specific Gravity - 1.024 and pH 8.1-8.2. When I
brought him home from the store I noticed a small white spot on his
bottom lip after putting him into the tank, it may have been there
before but this was the first time I noticed it. The white spot
enlarged over the next few days and then seemed to get smaller over
the next week. I thought he was getting better, but yesterday I
noticed that it was getting worse again. Now it seems that his
bottom lip has deteriorated somewhat. I have attached two photos
that were taken today. He only eats live or frozen brine and while
seeming to show interest, he is somewhat finicky about it. He did
not eat more than about 4 shrimp each day both yesterday and today.
He sometimes has stringy feces as well. I have become very attached
to this fish and would like to do anything possible to save him.
Thank you for your time and attention,
Mark
<Does look like an expanding erosive area... perhaps bacterially
mediated... though it could be the expression of an idiopathic
tumour... Please read here re:
http://wetwebmedia.com/clnfshdisart.htm
and the linked files above where you lead yourself. I might try
applying a poultice of a Furan compound here, or an immersion bath
of the same at concentration... If the fish is eating still there
are specific recommendations posted... Bob Fenner> |
|
 |
Spitting clownfish...
fdg., hlth. 7/31/07
Dear WWM Crew,
<Shannon>
Well, I started my first marine tank about 8 weeks ago, after reading
everything on the subject I could lay eyes on. The tank has cycled, with
ammonia, nitrites, and nitrate all back down to 0, and my SG at 1.024. I
figured I was ready for my first fish. I bought a percula clown fish on
7/14/07. To date, the fish hasn't eaten. I've tried frozen mysis shrimp,
live bloodworms, Cyclop-Eeze, and Nori on a clip. I've also tried all of
those plus fresh garlic juice, and all of those plus something called
Entice. Nada.
<Mmm, not good... Was this a wild-collected specimen?>
When the clown's feces was white and stringy and she still wasn't eating at
the end 9 days, I guessed internal parasites based on your FAQs.
<Possibly>
I put her in a QT dosed with General Cure.
<Mmmm, "GENERAL CURE contains 125 mg Metronidazole, 13 mg Copper Sulfate,
and 8 mg Trichlorofon." Is VERY general and quite toxic.>
Your FAQ recommends Hex-out,
<Just Metronidazole...>
but I couldn't find that anywhere. After a cycle of the General Cure, no
more white poop, but she still won't eat.
<May be off-feed due to the effects of the copper, organophosphate...>
She'll suck up mysis shrimp or Cyclop-Eeze, but she'll immediately spit them
back out. She'll chase down the same mysis shrimp over and over trying to
eat it, but each time she sucks it up, she spits it out immediately after.
Help! It's got to be a terribly bad sign if my first fish dies. What do I
do? Does she need dentures? Pureed shrimp? A straw? Any ideas would be
greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Shannon
<Mmm, the easiest, most likely chance for improvement here overall is to
suggest you get, place a piece/quantity of cured live rock... to improve
water quality, add ready food items. Do please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/clnfshdisart.htm
And the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Nano Tank.
On The Watch for Illness... – 07/03/07
Hello again,
<Hi there! Scott F. with you today!>
Here's an update..... I went away this past weekend, and during that time there
was a power loss, and my fish went w/o filter, heater, skimmer, power head for
about 4-5 hours time.
<Why is it that these disasters only occur when we aren't home?>
I'd say the tank went down to about 74 degrees. Obviously this is stressful...
Luckily, my friend was there to assist my fish, and fixed the electrical
problem.
<Can't put a price on friends, huh?>
That was Saturday. On Monday morning, I came back and fixed the skimmer (the
friend who was still in town is only familiar w/ freshwater)...
My question is this. All my fish and inverts are fine, healthy, and eating great
except for one of my clowns. He swims toward the top of the tank,
almost on his side. Breathing and fin movement seem normal. (Except that he's on
his side, almost) (I've been watching him closely)... From time to time, it
almost looks like he's trying to eat something on the surface but can't really
do it. His buddy sticks closely by him and doesn't bother him
at all. He typically stays in one exact location for a few hours, then slowly
moves to another location. I know he's a new fish, relatively speaking.
I have been reading and can't really find the symptoms out.
If I saw white feces, (I'm not sure this was the case) In any event, it seems as
if it was white, there may be a bacterial infection, correct?
<Not always. If the fish is not eating, there are lots of possibilities. I'd
keep sharp and for anything resembling a symptom of a stress-related illness
(parasitic or otherwise. Otherwise, I'd keep trying to get the fish to eat.
Monitor water quality, etc. to assure that no additional stressors arise.>
If it turns out there was no white feces, what should I do? Thank you again for
time and help!
Eric
<Man...if you would have asked me 10 years ago if I was gonna be writing about
fish poop in front of 10,000 people a day, I would have thought you were
nuts...Guess it's just all in a day's work here at WWM! Shows how much life
changes, huh?? Seriously, I would not be overly concerned...yet. I'm more
concerned with getting the fish to eat again. Stay on top of things, and be
prepared to take actions if necessary. Feel free to let me know if you have any
more questions! Regards, Scott F.>
Re: On The Watch For Illness- Part 2 – 07/03/07
I definitely didn't suspect such a quick response, but thanks!
<Glad to help!>
And I was thinking the same thing, why do these things happen when I'm gone?
<Someone's idea of a joke against us fish nerds!>
And yes, friends are extremely helpful.
After writing last night I watched my fish more extensively, did some more
research, and found that he is now breathing rapidly (I read on the site that
more than 60 times per minute is rapid... well, it's definitely more
than that. More than 1 breath per second. I'd say about 1.5 er so, not quite
2... but it's sort of hard to gauge.
<Hmmm...>
Also, his fins are somewhat slower in movement than the other clown. I read over
the clown fish disease section and he isn't showing any signs or anything from
the other possible diseases/stresses. The one good (great) sign is that when I
fed the rest of the fish some Mysis shrimp last night, he (momentarily) came
back and started to swim a bit faster and eat, (90% sure he was actually eating,
not just biting and spitting out) only to retreat to the top of the tank when
done, and show the same symptoms.
So, my question is this: does this change your recommendations?
Thanks again,
Eric
<Well, Eric, the continuous rapid breathing is a cause for concern, and can
point to several possible problems, ranging from environmental (ie; metabolic
poisoning, etc.) to parasitic diseases, such as Amyloodinium, Brooklynella, etc.
If the other fishes are not affected, and assuming you're getting no detectible
ammonia or nitrite in your water tests, I'd be inclined to rule out an
environmental issue for now. Even though the fish may not be demonstrating the
other "classic" symptoms of he aforementioned parasitic diseases, I would
consider them a serious possibility. Usually, thick, whitish mucous and the fish
"gaping" are signs of Brooklynella...It's more common in wild-caught Clownfish
these days, but still a possibility. Amyloodinium ("Velvet"), has similar
symptoms in terms of loss of appetite, lethargic behavior, and rapid
respiration. Eventually, very fine spots may show on the fish (although
sometimes not) as the protozoa that cause the disease feed by liquefying parts
of the fish (I know, sounds gross- it is)
.Often, the first stop for these despicable protozoa is the fish's gills, which
can account for the rapid respiration. You will eventually see "blemishes" on
the fish's skin, and it may "scratch" itself on objects in the aquarium in an
effort to remove the irritant. Many times, however, this disease can kill fishes
before these other outward signs manifest. Rapid intervention is necessary. One
good thing is that your fish is still eating. I would remove this fish to a
separate aquarium with water from the display for further observation and
possible treatment. If these symptoms do not subside fairly quickly (like within
hours), I'd operate under the assumption that you may be dealing with
Amyloodinium. Note that I did say "assumption"...you need to verify this to the
best of your ability with the resources here on WWM and elsewhere. It's a very
deadly disease, so once you're convinced that you're dealing with it, action is
necessary. You can start with freshwater dips for 3-5 minutes duration, which
may or may not be effective, but could cause some of the trophonts (if present
on the fish) to drop off in a response to some osmotic shock. Next, a course of
treatment with copper sulphate (a brand such as Copper Safe is good) should be
undertaken. Copper can be harsh, but it works for me. Follow the manufacturer's
recommendation to the letter when using this, or any medication, never treat in
the display aquarium, and test for copper to assure that you are achieving a
proper therapeutic dose. Copper is not everyone's favorite (some prefer
Formalin-based products), but it has worked for me in the past and I would use
it again. There is always some risk in treating a fish when you're not 100%
certain what the disease is, and it's tough to diagnose a fish without being
there to see with one's own eyes, so I'm giving you my best guess based on what
I hear so far. You have to confirm this for yourself, and sometimes a bit of a
guess is necessary. You need to prepare yourself for the possibility that you
might lose the fish. However, if you intervene rapidly, and are correct in your
"diagnosis", this disease can be defeated. Unfortunately, because this disease
is parasitic in nature, there is the possibility that it is in your display
tank, and may affect other fishes in there. Observe the fishes in the display
aquarium carefully and prepare to take further action, if necessary. Good luck!
Regards, Scott F.>
Clownfish ? Lumenal parasite? -
06/27/07
Hello,
<Hi there!>
We have a salt water tank that was given to us. It included one clownfish and
one blue damsel. We do weekly water changes and test the water. The tank has
been doing very well. It has been here for several months. We are new to
aquariums.
A few weeks ago we added a second clownfish. The second clownfish didn't eat
much which we attributed to the change. But then it started to have a long white
string hanging from its backend and stopped eating all together.
It also sits on the bottom in the back hiding behind a rock.
<The long white fecal material could mean nothing...>
I did research your site, excellent site by the way, and it seems a lumen
parasite is the most probable.
<Possible>
On the advice of a pet store we were already treating with Clout (hydroxyethyl &
nitromidazole) for 4 days. We did 1 tab/1 liter of water for 20 minutes and then
1 tab/1 gal of water for 2 days and then a 50% water change and repeated the
process for a total of 4 days.
(In a quarantine tank) No change.
<Mmmm>
A week later we notice our original clownfish doing the same thing. It starts
with a change in breathing then no eating and the white string. The breathing is
the mouth opens and closes all the time.
<Well... I would try a one-time use of Flagyl/Metronidazole... and a follow-up
treatment regimen with an anthelminthic... Likely Prazi/quantel... See WWM re
dosages, protocol>
A week after our original clownfish started the blue damsel started with the
change in breathing and not eating. No white string yet.
It seems that the second clown fish had this and passed it on to the others.
What is it and how do we treat it?
<Perhaps a protozoan... could be a worm of some sort...>
We have separated both clownfish. Is it also contagious to star fish, etc.?
<Could be>
We have several polyps, feather dusters, etc. in the tank as well.
Thank you for your help,
Gwen
<These will not be parasitized, nor likely mal-affected by the proscribed
compounds. Bob Fenner>
hey!! A tutorial on writing to WWM 6/14/07
Hey again WWM guys!
<Greetings, Ahmad. >
i <I> waked <Woke> up today i <I> found my smaller clown is dead !!!!!
yesterday <Yesterday> i <I> changed the filter because it was making some
sounds! cuz <...> it was closing it's upper and lower fins and when i <I> swich
<Switch> the filter off it releases them!
<And you think the sound was the cause of the apparent discomfort?>
my <My> new filter doesn't make turbans <Turbulence?> in water that much!
plus <Plus> there is another thing<:> it was not eating that much but i <I> used
to her <hear> it
pooing "am feeing them blood worms"
<Not sure what you mean, bud.>
i <I> don't know what is the problem my water conditions are ok!!
thanks again!! :(
<I'm sorry I can't more helpful here, friend. I don't make a lot of sense of
your email, to be honest. You may notice that there are a lot of inserts in
angle brackets (<>) in your message. These are all of the corrections you would
have me/us do here at WWM before replying to you. We can't have it this way,
sorry. Look over your email before sending, and reflect: "Is this what I want to
say? Is this how I want to say it? Can someone make sense of this?". Please
consider this and by all means reply and I'll be more than happy to lend a hand.
No offense is intended, but our minimal requirement for our help/support is that
you respect our time and "pay" us in proper grammar, punctuation, spelling etc.>
By Ahmad Zein
<-GrahamT> <<Graham... not to make
allowances out of hand... but this fellow may well be a non-native
speaker/writer of English... I often remind myself that my responses in turn
would not be too spiffy if I tried to write back in other folks native script...
RMF>>
My clown is dead :'( NO useful info. –
06/15/07
Hey again WWM guys!
I woke up today I found my smaller clown is dead !!!!!
Yesterday I changed the filter because it was making some sounds! Because it was
closing it's upper and lower fins and when I switch the filter off it releases
them!
My new filter doesn't make turbulence in water that much!
Plus it was not eating that much but I used to see it pooing "am feeding them
blood worms"
I don't know what is the problem, I tested my water conditions and the are OK !!
thanks again!! :(
--
By Ahmad Zein
<... No water quality test results? No mention of system, maintenance, feeding,
tankmates... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnfshdisart.htm
and the linked files at top. RMF>
Sick Clown 6/12/07
My tank as just finished cycling a couple of days ago and I decided to
purchase some livestock. I purchased a ocellaris clown, star polyp, some
snails and hermits. After one day I lost a hermit followed by another that
night, others are doing fine. <Might be an acclimation problem here. Also,
no QT tank?> Coral is doing well also. My big concern is that my clown
started acting really strange after my water change. He had a white stringy
substance trailing him ( came off , maybe parasite or feces ) and he has
been at the top of the tank alot. <Could be nothing, but need to monitor
closely.> He also seems to be having fun swimming into the powerhead current
and getting pushed around the tank. <Normal> I don't now what normal
breathing is, but it seems awful fast to me. All of my water parameters are
in the safe ranges. <Numbers please, safe range is too subjective.> Do I
need to worry and is he just lonely cause he has no one to play with? <Not
lonely, but may be harboring something, hard too say. QTing a fish is
important for just this reason, allows you to monitor and treat if necessary
much more easily.> He is still swimming upright.
Thank you
Tim
<I would not do anything yet other than observe closely, look for signs of
parasitic infection which can be common in clowns. Please check out or
marine disease section for more.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisindex.htm .>
Clowns Dying
6/1/07
Hi
<Hello>
I keep losing my clown fish and I don't know why. The first pair I brought
after my tank had cycled for 5 weeks, and I had the water tested and all was
fine. One of the pair was not right from the moment it went into the tank
and I fort he recovered, but then it died after 3 days. <Need to QT new
fish, now if their death was caused by some pathogen it is in the main
tank.> The second one lasted 2 weeks and then was fine in the morning then
by the afternoon just died. I went to a different shop a week later and had
the water checked a second time and every think again was fine, so I brought
two more clowns. <"Fine" is not really specific enough to help, actual test
numbers are much more helpful.> They seemed perfectly fine much more healthy
than the other two and were fine for almost a week. But last night one just
started to act funny, it was lying around the thermometer and then swimming
away and doing it over again and lying for a while. I looked for advice on
your website and I fort it was just resting playing or whatever, but then it
hid in a hole in the rock it never uses and I fort it had just found a new
hiding place. Then it seemed to be back to its self I went to bed, woke up
turned the light on and it was dead in the corner. The other clown seems
fine just sort of alone. It was eating fine and everything before it died
and I don't know what's wrong with them. I'm now thinking its something I'm
doing wrong rather than the fish. My tank is 25 gallons it has a internal
lee's protein skimmer <dubious reputation>, a coral sand (more like gravel)
base around 2inchs deep, 3 pieces of ocean rock, 2 pieces of live rock, a
external filter , heater , 2 high power t5 compact lighting bulbs 36w each
in a over hanging housing. I've had the water tested and its fine so I don't
know what I'm doing wrong. I hope you can help as I don't want to buy any
more fish until I know what's wrong
Thanks Toby
<Unfortunately there is not much to go on here. The problem could be either
environmental or pathological in nature. In this situation I would let the
tank run fallow (no fish) for at least 6 weeks to hopefully rule out most
parasites and making sure your water parameters are Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0,
and nitrate >20. pH should be 8.3 and the SG at 1.025. Also please read
through the marine disease section and see if any of the diseases match what
you saw. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisindex.htm .>
<Chris>
Clown Fish Health, Post-Traumatic Water Chem. Issue –
05/08/07
Please help me WWM Crew,
<Yes sir…I’m going to try.>
After a recently added a Sally Lightfoot Crab To my 29 gal tank with my
2 Amphiprion Ocellaris.
<Careful with the crab. Some folks have good experiences….others, like
myself, did not. Can become quite predatory.>
The wife gave the crab a cooked shrimp while I was at work.
<Uh-oh.>
She removed it after a while but she missed part of the shrimp that he
had ripped off. This lead to a nitrate spike that got to 160ppm.
<To say that’s bad would be an understatement.>
After 2; 5 gal water changes and a dose of Seachem prime. The water
level went back down to 20 ppm nitrate 0 nitrites and the gravity
is 1.022.
<Nitrates till need to come down to about >10 and S.G. needs to come up
as well to be acceptable to your inverts…but much better than it was
before obviously.>
( it has been holding this for 48 hrs) My crab and one of my clown seem
to have made it threw the mishap just fine.
<Good. Keep up on the water changes and run some carbon as well.>
The other clown is losing color and hanging around the filter outlet.
<Lingering effects from the toxic state the tank was in.>
He is still eating and at times swims like his normal self but most of
the time he hangs around.
<A good sign that he is eating though. At this point I would just
continue to care in a normal manor and offer a variety of foods. Keep
the tank aerated well and ensure the water chemistry remains stable
(i.e. have a conversation with your wife and do more eater changes.>
Also when we 1st got him he a red sore that went away with in two days
this sore has since reemerged.
<Sounds like environmental induced trauma, follow the advice above for
mow. If it makes you feel better you could move him into QT for more
detailed attention/care.>
I called the LFS and was given the advise that since I got the water
under control to just do frequent water changes and watch for any
changes.
<Am in agreement with the LFS for once.>
Thank you for your help.
<Anytime my friend.>
Rob
<Adam J.>
| |
|