New Reef Tank Light Fixture  12/10/08
What do you think of this light? (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=180305898295) I have a 135 gal reef tank. I plan to keep clams and SPS.
Thank you,
Corey
<<Hey Corey. I'm skeptical, to be honest. What are the odds you think, that those stamped-metal end pieces are powder-coated and not just painted black? Or that those screws are stainless steel? I'm always leery of such bargains, especially with electrical equipment/fixtures like this one. And the fact that the seller doesn't list a manufacturer (that I saw) is a red flag to me. As far as the type, number, and wattage of the lamps this would be fine for your system… But were this me, I wouldn't spend the money on this particular fixture. As Anthony C. was/is so fond of saying… Few good things are cheap, and few cheap things are good. So… You pay your money and take your chances… Cheers, EricR>>

Lighting Help…T5s On A Deep Tank? – 10/16/08
Hello everyone.
<<Greetings>>
My question is, I have a 155 gallon saltwater tank 4 feet long by 2 feet wide by 2 ½ feet deep. Would I need metal halide to keep anything other than softies or could I get high output T-5 lighting?
Thanks
<<Though this tank is considered “deep” at 30” for reef keeping, the T5s can work. By maximizing the number of bulbs over the tank (use as many as you can)…keeping “blue” bulbs to a minimum (no more than 30% to maximize useful light penetration)…and utilizing careful placement of livestock in regards to their height within the water column (e.g. – lower light demanding species toward the bottom and higher light demanding species toward the top)…I think you could keep just about anything you could otherwise with MH lighting. Regards, EricR>>

Lighting Upgrade, reef eventually  10/13/08
Hi guys,
How are you going?
<Fine for the most part.>
After visiting my LFS, I have changed my mind about the path I want to take in creating my first marine tank. Originally, I was going to start with FOWLR and if all was successful I would start to add the various invertebrates, until I met the owner of my LFS. His advice was start with the invertebrates as adding them after the fish would cause stress to the fish.
<This will work.>
So, I come to you with questions about upgrading the lighting fixture (I've been told my lighting is not sufficient). Currently, I'm running a unit which supports two 54W T5 tubes at 10,000K. The tank is 75G/4 foot.
I was considering upgrading to a larger unit which can support eight 39W T5 tubes also at 10,000K. If I upgrade to this unit and I would like blue actinic bulbs, is their a recommended ratio of blue to normal bulbs?
<Typically 3 or 4 daylights to every on actinic.>
Also, (I may have overlooked this during my search on your website) I'm trying to understand when the blues come on and go off and when the normal bulbs come on and go off. Is there a recommended schedule for this activity?
<The typical photoperiod should be 10-12 hours. You can have the actinics come on/go off ½-1 hour prior/after if you wish to have a dawn/dusk effect.>
I will include some of the animals that I'd like to have in this tank in the hopes that it will help you give me some advice on making the right choice when it comes to upgrading the light fixture.
Various snails and crabs
Mushrooms
Polyps
Pumping xenias
Leather corals
Tree corals
<The light you mention will be fine for these.>
Thanks for the help and time you guys put into the website. It really is a helpful tool. I look forward to your reply.
Thanks again,
Nick
<Welcome, have fun setting up. Scott V.>

MH HQI replacing PC's? And Cnid. incomp. non-action  – 10/02/08
Hello there!
I have a real quick question on lighting that's pretty unique, hoping for your suggestions. It's that time again to change my MH HQI lamps and PC's (been 12 months). Currently the set up is two HQI 150 watts and two 96 PC actinics (Aqualight Pro) on a 90 gallon (48 x 18 x 24) that have recently been converted to a predominantly SPS tank mixed in with some LPS's. SPS's are in the middle to upper half of the tank and LPS dominates the lower portion of the tank with many Acans and Blastos.
Now to my question, I have began noticing 70 watt HQI's in the market recently and I am wondering if I could replace my PC's with those to be used for supplemental lighting, I'd probably use a 20,000K bulb. Well first off, is my current set up sufficient for SPS corals?
<Mmm... IF these were "elevated", placed "higher up" closer to the lights... likely perched on rocks or such, yes>
Second, I think a 70 watt MH HQI will penetrate much deeper than a 96 watt actinic PC
<Mmm, am not such a fan of actinics period... they don't do much functionally. Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/actinicfaqs.htm>
plus I save some money on the monthly electricity bills! What do you think? Would this be a realistic option, using a 70 watt 20,000K as SUPPLEMENTAL lighting?
<Mmm, yes, or even principal...>
Oh and one more, sorry, I know I said one quick question! My Micromussa accidentally came in contact with my Torch Coral recently (thanks to a very mobile Fighting Conch), and most of it has disintegrated within 8 hours. I checked it the morning and they were fine until I came home from work. There are maybe one or two heads they weren't affected, should I cut them off from the disintegrated meat or just leave it alone?
<I'd leave as is (though re-separated of course),... it may well be that the "empty", "melted-off" heads will be repopulated in time>
Thank you for any assistance you can provide!
Jay
<Welcome Jay. Bob Fenner>

Re: MH HQI replacing PC's? – 10/02/08
Thanks for the quick reply!
<... welcome>
So would just the two HQI 150 watt 10,000K be sufficient for the SPS (perched on rocks from one foot below surface to near surface)?
<Mmm, yes>
My plan is to create a dusk to dawn effect by turning on the two 96 watt actinics and then turning then off when the MH come on. then midway through the day have another two 70 watt MH come on.
What do you think? Is this light sufficient?
<... Is, in terms of photonic strength>
Thanks again!
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Lighting For Montipora digitata - 12/31/05
HI Bob,
<<EricR here today...>>
Hope this email finds you well.
<<I am, thank you>>
You may not remember, but we had discussed the proper housing of Anthias, in particular the squamipinnis with the purple eyes (lyre tail) and your suggestion of 1 per 50 gallons or 1 per 15 seems to be working well!  I have 3 females in a 150 and so far none have changed to male and are fed 2 to 3 times a day and seem to
be doing well.
<<Interesting that none have started to change.  I had two females in a 375 and the dominant female began to change in just a couple weeks...though this was quickly reversed with the introduction of two full-blown males...but enough about me <grin>.>>
Thank you.  That was a little off the main reason to email you, but just wanted to thank you.
<<That Bob is a pretty smart fella.>>
Now here is the deal.  I purchased a couple Montipora
digitata in green and purple.  Colors went to brown (though the green which was aquacultured kept the color to a certain degree)  when I moved to my 150, I know I need to upgrade my lighting to bring out the colors in these cool SPS.  Here is the confusing part.  I have CP that are 8 months old, with 2 10k and 2 actinic.
<<Best to go all 10K here, though at 65w (read ahead) you'll need to keep the bulbs close to the water's surface, and the Montipora in the top third of the tank.>>
I am going to be replacing them and use the sunscreen method of acclimation.  Now I read that you can just change the lights at night and in the morning they may all recoil, but adjust eventually.
<<Mmm, no...you still need/is best to acclimate over several days.>>
I thought the light shock would kill them, but I read they just look crappy for a short time and adjust......your thoughts?
<I don't agree with this.  While many corals can/will make the adjustment, you are submitting them to unnecessary stress that can kill more sensitive species.>>
Next, I wanted to add a spectrum to bring out the color (maybe new
lights would do it) and I talked to and read a TON of things and the range of advice and suggestions are so different, I decided to email you.
<<And with all that reading you should have found that more than lighting effects coral color...though an increase in intensity will likely help you with the Montipora you mention.>>
One person said use a 20k with my 10k and actinic.  Another says do NOT use 20K just use a 3rd 03 actinic.  Then I read that 6500k is what they want for color.  WHO IS RIGHT?????
<<Everybody...nobody...many times it comes down to the individuals own sense of aesthetics.>>
I am going nuts here! lol!
<<Understood>>
I am going to order 2 96w to retrofit with my 2 65w 10k and 2 65w actinic.  I am just moving everything close to the surface (I do not want to get into MH, or HQI, sorry)
<<ok>>
What would your suggestion be to the color temps?
<<10K...contains plenty (more than enough) light in the blue spectrum for the coral's use without making your tank look like Papa Smurf peed in it.>>
One person said make the 2 96w actinic, one said make them 20K and another article says 6500K!  I have a 6500K 500 watt CF over my Heteractis magnifica and he seems pretty happy.
<<Yes, the 6.5K bulbs generally produce more PAR per watt...are also considered the best spectrum for coral growth.>>
Should I try and see if putting them under the 6500k would work? (only 84 CRI, so my anemone is at the surface right under)
<<Up to you>>  
NOW I did put a green zoanthid under the 6500k and it turned brown until I moved it away. (obviously the symbiotic zooxanthellae over producing)
<<yes>>
BUT it seems that does not apply to the Montipora........that turning brown/tan means not enough light?
<<Is likely, yes>>
I am very confused, please let me know soon, as I want to put an order in for the right lights.
<<10K gets my vote...>>
Take care!
Carrie :)
<<Regards, EricR>>

Re: Lighting For Montipora digitata - 01/01/06
Eric,
<<Carrie>>
Thanks for the reply!  Especially on a Saturday you devoted web media crew member, you! lol!
<<Hee! That Bob is a real slave driver <JK> >>
First about the Anthias.......which species do you have?
<<Same as you...Pseudanthias squamipinnis>>
Bob's web page, Saltcorner.com, or his contribution to it, was what made me make the decision to even try them.  Mine is Bob's favorite, Pseudanthias squamipinnis.
<<Hmm, I wonder if you have your "Bobs" confused?  The "Bob" at Saltcorner.com is Bob Goemans...the "Bob" associated here (WWM) is Bob Fenner...>>
Problem being, someone buying many females and one male and the male dying, next female changing to male, THEN dying, until all dead.  This is the case with many of the Anthias from what I read.
<<But for a few species, most do seem to be inappropriate for the average home aquarist.  Either we just don't know enough about their nutritional requirements or they don't/can't tolerate the rigors of capture/transportation.>>
That is why I emailed Bob.
<<Ah, but which Bob? <grin> >>
So my 3 girls were in a 60 gallon for 3 weeks (with all the LR it was like 15 gallons each!) then a 150 so far for 2 weeks.  None have changed and seem about the same size.
<<Mmm...perhaps these are all juvenile fish?...possibly too small yet to change...>>
Now I don't know if this way LETS one of the females change to a male on its own thus preventing deaths??  Not sure exactly the reason for the formula.....maybe Bob can enlighten both of us.
<<I don't believe the "formula" has anything to do with sexing these fish.  I think Bob's intent was to provide a guideline to ensure a tank of proper size for the number of fish kept.  Regardless of tank size, the most dominant female will become male when mature enough.>>
On to the lighting......thanks for adding to the confusion! lol!  Just kidding!
<<Agreed <G>, much to consider (coral specie, depth of occurrence, etc.)...and no 'one' perspective can cover all.>>
One article I read was that the TRUE actinic 03 was NEEDED for coral growth as it simulates dawn and dusk which is the optimum time for spawning/growth etc.
<<The so called "dawn/dusk" cycle is more for the aquarist than the coral, though it can/does help with easing fishes to bed.  Bear in mind that very little we do/can do with our tanks truly simulates nature...luckily these animals we keep are very adaptable.  But saying that, the dawn/dusk cycle is fine if you wish to have one, but as an add-on, not as a partial replacement to existing lighting.>>
This is why I got 2 10k and 2 actinic.  
<<Too much actinic in my opinion.  Better to go 3 to 1 respectively.>>
Now I have already ordered and got lamps for 8.50 each!
<<Cheap!>>
On line Innovativelights.com.  I know you cannot put that in your web page,
<<Sure we can.>>
but for you personally, and the rest of the crew...enjoy!
<<Thanks!>>
Okay now as for the 20k.......what is your thought on that?
<<Thought I did in the previous email...too blue for my taste on a general scale...does not provide a true color rendering.  If you were keeping deep-water corals the 20K would be fine, but it has much more blue in the spectrum than your SPS need/require...and just maybe...not enough in the red/yellow spectrum for optimum health/vigor.>>
Isn't the 20k so close to actinic anyhow?
<<Not really, no.  Some good reading here, and among the indices in blue: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/actinicfaqs.htm >>
I do LOVE how my corals glow at dawn and dusk with the actinic!
<<Many folks do!>>
I would like to see that a little more, esp., if the digitata favored it.
<<Mmm...sounds like you might be better of with deeper water LPS/Corallimorphs than SPS...>>
I think Papa Smurf has magic pee if he can make corals glow! lol!!!!
<<Ha!...not magic, but does give all a blue cast...>>
I just want the light that is the most beneficial,
<<Then you need move toward a natural daylight spectrum.>>
so I had already bought 3 6500k  65w (gives off 500 watts, but only 84 CRI.....how deep would that penetrate the water?
<<Depends <G>...water clarity/height of bulb above the water/age of bulbs...all things being optimum, should work fine for an 18" deep tank with higher light demanding species in the top half of the tank.>>
I know I am moving the corals up) fixtures based on my research for optimum growth.  Here is the problem as I see it...... 6500k makes for more algae
<<That should tell you something about spectrum and growth potential.>>
and besides, are the Montis a shallow or deep coral?
<<Is generally found in shallow reef environments/mud flats.  I have green, purple, and German blue M. digitata and orange M. foliosa under 250w 10K metal halides.  All express their best color and most vigorous growth under intense lighting.  The blue digitata in particular will "brown out" under the slightest bit of shading.>>
If so, wouldn't the 6500k be the wrong spectrum?
<<Is "perfect" actually.  Even the 6.5K contains plenty of "blue" light for the corals needs.>>
I guess you are saying use 10k in all 4 65W and BOTH 96W?
<<Would be "optimum" in my opinion, yes.>>
I really would like the dawn/dusk for them.  Maybe 2 65W actinic, 2 65W 10k, and 2 96W 10K?
<<This is a viable alternative.>>
What is all the hype about the 20k????
<<s you have already noticed/stated...makes the corals glow/look more blue.>>
My thoughts were to put 2 20k for the 96w.
<<Not the best option for your SPS.>>
Sorry to make you crazy, just paying you back! lol!  kidding, kidding........
<<Tee hee!  No worries mate, was/is an enjoyable exchange.>>
Have a great weekend and if possible have Bob read this to see what his thoughts are.
<<Don't trust me eh? (kidding you back <G>).  Bob (Fenner) may be able to CC Bob Goemans re.>> >Will gladly send her's to BobG if requested. RMF<
Take Care!
Carrie :)
<<Regards, EricR>>

Deep Water Coral Lighting
Dear WWM Crew,
<whassup?>
I have been reading through your archives and articles for the past few days trying to make a final decision on a new reef lighting system.  I have learned so much in this time, I am bordering on brain fry.  This has become the best informative online site for aquarium keeping by far.  I really do like how it has changed in the year and a half since I regularly visited your site.  
<agreed... the evolution and progress, a pleasure to behold/experience for all>
My reef is 36" by 18" by 18" with a 2-3 inch sandbed.  I used to have an extensive collection of Euphyllias, corallimorphs, deep water brains, gorgonians and various sp. of green finger leathers.  I did my best sticking to deep water corals and all was fine until I joined the local aquarium society.  Stupidly I followed a LOT of bad advice from them and over lighted my tank losing most of these corals.
<the aquarium society was a good move, alas... the consensus from counsel may not have been>
I've had it in my head that MH is the way to go for reef keeping-more bang for the buck-then I stumbled across Anthony's reef lighting for invertebrates article.  This one god sent article has cleared up so much misinformation I've learned, thank you so much Anthony for taking the time to write it and thank you WWM crew for putting it on your website.
<a labor of love, but grateful to hear/offer it>
But I am still confused.  I want to upgrade from my SO lights and several places on this site recommend low watt MH or HQIs and several places say these are still too high when it comes to deep water corals.  
<depends, but I am inclined to disagree. Also depends on tank depth. For your shallow aquarium... 100 watt double-ended 10K HQIs would be excellent. A good balance between color, efficiency, longevity>
It is the same with VHO, some places say these are great for supplemental lighting only, and others say these would be perfect for deep water corals.  I personally don't like PC's except as supplemental.
<VHO combos are tried and true with many LPS. My fave for color, but not very economical regarding lamp replacement (every 6-10 months). FWIW, the last light system I just bought for a reef tank was a VHO system with split blue and daylight lamps. Keeping soft corals in it>
I realize that this subject is tempered by opinion, but I would love to get my tank back to the deep water garden it used to be-the right way.  Please, please, please...can someone help me clear this confusion up? Thanks so much, Chris    
<Either two 100-watt HQIS (10K) or 4 VHO lamps would do very nicely here. No worries. Best regards, Anthony>

Corals for Actinic Blue only lighting systems? 2/17/04
I ran across your web page during a search for corals that would be happy in my 26 gallon saltwater aquarium. My lighting system consists of two PC 65 watt actinic blues. Are there any corals I can keep in my tank with actinics only? Would the Elegance coral survive under actinic only? Thanks, Roel
<there are very few if any photosynthetic corals that will survive under blue actinic light only. What you can do is find a hardy aposymbiotic species that is indifferent to light and will survive by your diligent daily/weekly feedings. Tubastrea is a fine choice if you will feed it well. Anthony>

Lighting upgrade for Soft and LPS coral - 2/13/04
Ok here we I have ninety gallon reef 4 inch DSB with 65 pounds of live rock so there's open substrate. <Cool. Sounds really nice>
The critters are a large four head frogspawn a large yellow finger leather with various frags placed thru out the tank. <Excellent>  There's four med sized Toadstool mushrooms. <Love these corals>  Also different types of mushrooms,  there's a Candycane.  Various Ricordea at different levels in the tank. <Beautiful choices>
For the most part our interest is in soft corals but we are leaning to few LPS here n there. <OK> Our objective is to be able to propagate softies and keep a few choice LPS here n there.
So were stuck on lighting with these type of animals would a dual metal halide system be the best choice? <Might be overkill but a couple of 250s would probably be a good fit> Or what about a VHO Ice cap retrofit 4 bulb at 440 watts with dimmer. <Sure. Is there a problem with the lighting you have now? Sounds like things are growing well>
I really want that extra growth I figure with my improving husbandry habits and every other day feeding with excellent lighting I can achieve our objectives. <A good plan, in my experience. Very good to hear that you are such a Conscientious Marine Aquarist!. Either one of the plans for lighting would be fine. Go with what fits your budget and space. Should be fine! ~Paul>
Thanks.
LCS

10 in depth of water 2/12/04
I have s quick question, If my tank is only 10in deep can I use SO fluorescents (of the appropriate temp), changed regularly, in conjunction with T5's to light Euphyllia, Sarcophyton, Heliofungia, Pachyclavularia, Plerogyra, Catalaphyllia, Trachyphyllia? Could I possibly go to 12 in depth. Also, I will have an 11 inch sand base under them, and of course live rock in the tank so some corals could be placed higher if needs be.
All of the corals you listed will tolerate SO fluorescents with no problem, even if you increase the depth a bit.  I would recommend that you try to get four lamps per foot of tank width and cover the entire length (four lamps over a 55 or six over a 75, for example).>
Is the sand bed to deep? In the main tank I don't want the sand dissolving under the coral and lowering them, could you recommend a sugar fine sand that doesn't dissolve.
<I don't think 11" of sand is too deep, but after about 6" I don't think you will reap much additional benefit.  You also have to take into account the tradeoff of diminished water volume.  If the only goal is to get the corals closer to the light, then I wouldn't bother.  Any aragonite based sand will dissolve.  Silica sand will not dissolve, but it's use is controversial.>
I will be using Aragamax in the sump to help with buffing as well as a calcium reactor. Finally, water changes are very important and I do them frequently but as many people know what ever you spend on your equipment initially pales in comparison to what you will ultimately spend in upkeep. I am trying to set up a system that meets all the animals needs but is cost effective over time. Since I do 25% water changes every week the expense of salt is killing me, any help in getting less expensive salt that will get the job done.
<I too believe in the importance of water changes, but unless you have tremendous input, 25% per month should be more than OK.  I can often find IO brand salt for about $10 per bag and less than $40 per 200gal bucket.  Getting any brand for any less than that will be a challenge.>
I know many people say just have better filtration, but I have an excellent protein skimmer etc., low contaminants, I have just found water changes help allot, maybe its diffusing all the things we can't test for like chemical warfare etc...I just don't want to stop using them as they have worked for me.  What do coral farmers do about the huge amount of salt they need for their systems? Thank you Greg
<Again, you have my agreement about the benefit, but you may get 90% of the benefit with half of the water changes.  Small amounts of regularly changed carbon will help too.  Any business with large systems simply buys salt in large quantities.  Since a large part of the cost is freight, buying in pallet quantities saves cost.  Also, some large commercial facilities re-use water, sending "used" water from SPS systems to soft coral, fish only or live rock systems for example.  Hope this helps.  Adam>

Coral Propagation Lighting 2/27/04
Last week in Seattle I attended a lecture by Anthony Calfo on coral propagation/farming. Thanks Anthony, I found the discussion very interesting. I enjoyed your articulate and humorous delivery. It's obvious from listening to you that you have a real love for marine life and the reefs.
<thanks kindly my friend... I truly had a fun time! :)>
In your discussion about your experience of propagation in Pennsylvania you mentioned that you used a green house and natural lighting.
<yes... natural lighting almost exclusively>
I am preparing for starting a propagation program myself but had planned to use artificial lighting (T-5) .
<yikes! Well... I think its great you can afford to establish a charity <G>>
Do you feel that an artificially lit aquiculture facility would not be able to be profitable due to cost of lighting?
<I am certain of it. Personal experience, the shared wisdom of others... and above all: the numbers/statistics. Calc your rates of growth at present and salability of corals against what it costs you to buy and operate lights... plus replace those fluorescent lamps every 6 months just to try to maintain growth. You can indeed grow corals under lamps... but very little profit to be made. If you need/want to make money... you need to harness natural sunlight, my friend. Anthony>

Lighting a tank of coral; MH or no? - 4/25/04 
Hi, I love your site. I'm learning a lot. <So am I thanks ro being here> Converted to salt from fresh. <As did I> 
I have a 110 gal corner tank 30" depth. Have about 60-70lbs of live rock and corallite base 1-1.5" thick. I have about 12 snails various sizes. 8 hermits 3blue leg 2 red legs and 1 cleaner shrimp. I have only 3 Chromis so far but I'm planning on adding 2 convict tangs (I still have a slight algae problem). <A very new tank I assume. I too, have a similar set up but with 2 cleaners and no convicts.> 
I want to start adding coral, but I need to work out the lighting first. <No, I think it to be wise to decide what kind of coral first and foremost> I don't want to spend several hundred dollars (plus the cost of bulb replacement every 2000hrs) if I don't need to. <While I understand this, I feel it is something that should be somewhat expected based on the hobby and life at stake. Of course, there are some cheaper substitutions to be made for sure, but be prepared for some cost.> 
I have a 500W compact fluorescent that works great for the fish only. <Can work for coral as well> 
For corals I have heard that I need MH, then others say I don't; <Kind of depends on what corals you plan to have but I have seen many types of corals grow in many types of lighting environments> 
.. that VHO's and compacts are just as good and cheaper to operate. Which is true? <Both. MH are excellent coral growing lights (depending on the corals to be grown) but again, I have seen and personally have had outstanding coral growth from PC and VHO. (plus there is a slight advantage in initial cost of setup pf PCs and VHO but I think that it becomes even if not more of an advantage (watt per watt) to the MH over the long haul of operation. I personally cannot back this statement scientifically, but there are some studies by Sanjay Joshi on coral growth and I think cost as well. Do a search or check out his page at: http://www.personal.psu.edu/faculty/s/b/sbj4/aquarium/aquarium.html > 
If I do need MH, in order to save the bulb life and operating cost I was thinking of putting a single 150W MH on timer as a supplement with the compacts. <Seems a standard setup to me. Tried and true. I think you should read a bit on the lighting of reef invertebrates from our WetWeb perspective to gain what is needed when determining how to light invertebrates. Here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/index.htm  Check out our lighting section under that link> 
I was going to set up the MH to come on 2 hours after the compacts and shut off 2 hours before to try kind of a sunrise/sunset simulation. <DO look at our section on lighting and then decide what corals you plan to keep. From there you decide the best cost effective setup for the needs and health of your inhabitants.> 
Two 2 questions. Do I really need MH at all? <Depends on the coral, money you have to spend the short answer is no!> 
Am I over engineering this? <Not really, but keep the choice of your animals, their needs, their health, and their sustainability, and growth rates you desire in mind when make your choice. Maybe look at the overall long term cost of operation, and your long term choices of animals to make the best decision possible> 
Thanks, John    <Thanks ~Paul> 

Lighting over a 50g tank 7/9/04
Thanks in advance for your excellent advice as always.  I have a 36" 50G tank which has a mix of soft corals and xenia (been trouble free for 3yrs).  I'm currently running a DIY VHO/no (icecap) hood with 3x95wt and 1x30wt, 50/50 and 03 mix.  I have cooked 2 bulbs at the end caps in the last year, and I'm beginning to worry about the fire hazard aspect of my hood.
<I have two guesses about your lighting... One, the NO's were the ones that fried, second, that you only have one of the two contacts in each end cap wired (or a couple are loose).  The electrodes in NO lamps will definitely burn up faster if overdrive (as they are on an Icecap).  Also, even with VHO lamps, if you run all of the current through one pin, it will overheat the electrode also.  These problems can create enough heat to melt waterproof end caps.>
I'd like to switch to MH.  I've had good luck with MH on my
other tank.  my question is about the fixture.  being an open top goofy (37.8") tank, I'd like to go with a pendant.  the 48" dual light pendants would space the lights out too far, I'd think.  I though about going with 2 bell shapes closer together, but I'd really like to only have 1 pendant.  Do you think I could get away with a single bulb?
<PFO and Aquatic Technology will make custom length MH reflectors, so this may be an option.  You certainly could get away with one lamp as long as you were sensitive to the limitations of the low light at the ends of the tank.>
250wt would be enough?  I'm not sure if the horizontal regular or HQI would give better horizontal coverage.  I really don't have any high-light corals near the edges of my tank.  If I can go with one bulb, should I do 150 or 250? 10k or 20k?  thanks again for the advice.
<Wattage should be based on tank depth, not coverage.  For such a shallow tank, 175W would be plenty.  As far as coverage, you may consider using a higher wattage lamp and hanging it higher above the tank or seeking out a fixture meant as a "flood light" which will give a wider beam spread.  It will be hard to find a fixture that will give you good coverage over the length of the tank without spilling/wasting light in front of and behind the tank.  I would just live with keeping lower light animals on the sides.  As for 10K vs. 20K, you will get more intensity watt for watt from the 10K, but beyond that, the choice is largely aesthetic.  Best Regards.  Adam>

Nano lighting for corals
I am about to setup a new nano reef aquarium and I am not sure if I understand the reasons for using actinics and daylights.  I was hoping to use a 2x36 watt retrofit over a 16 gallon cube with 1 bulb being actinic and the other being a 50/50.  I am wondering if this would be a bad idea as some people are saying that actinics don't help with corals?  I would like to keep hard, soft, and LPS as well.  I had an older tank with half and half and it just looked to yellow to me so any help would be useful thank you.
>>>Greetings
First of all I think you're being a bit over optimistic thinking you'll be keeping SPS corals under such lights. Most of those corals need *AT LEAST* 150 watt metal halides, some need PAR values much higher, up in the range of what 400watt bulbs provide. Some Monitpora species, M. digitata for instance, may do OK under your lights, but don't count on it. Softies, as well as LPS such as the various Euphyllia species should do just fine. Mushrooms and zoanthids will do very well. Stick with the low light corals.
Anyway, no the corals do not need actinic lighting. It DOES however bring out the colors much better. I recommend using one 10K bulb, and one actinic. You'll like the looks of the tank much better that way.
Peace
Jim<<<