LFS Opinions and Publication Truth 9/13/04 (MHs, light, corals)
Good morning, guys!
<cheers>
Please push Ivan away from us here in South Louisiana and push it farther away from Florida!
<heehee... if only I could>
The last thing they need is more rain! I visited my LFS/LRS, probably the best one in South Louisiana, yesterday. I had intentions of purchasing a 6500ºK bulb for a pendant I have, and probably a 175w 10,000K setup for my 58g. They freaked out when I asked for the 6500.
<bizarre... I cannot fathom why>
Now, every book I've read, new and old, has suggested that lower Kelvin can be advantageous and economically friendly to some corals.
<exactly... it is THE best light for a majority of corals>
Information gleaned from wetwebmedia.com, the best source, IMHO, suggests the same. The owner, normally a helpful guy, tried to tag team me with a scientific sounding employee into discovering that 6500 is the way of the dinosaurs and I should learn from their mistakes and buy the 20,000K.
<wow... not only are they mistaken, but 20kK is actually not helpful for a majority of corals... that is to say - used alone, 20k K will suffer many photosynthetic corals because they lack adequate amounts of daylight in the spectrum to stimulate adequate photosynthesis.>
I asked how PAR ratings compare to the "plain-ol'" 6500s and how 20,000 is better, other than just marketing and personal preference. Grunts and mumbles followed.
<do a google search for "Sanjay Yoshi" to read some of his studies and results regarding PAR values>
The scientific guy said he wouldn't hesitate adding a 400w 20,000K to his nanoreef tank, again going in the face of anything I've read. What's the opinion from anyone over there?
<they have caught up in the hype... there is no basis for using heavy blue/20k K only... quite the contrary for garden reef displays>
I think Mr. Calfo would have something to say. I would really like the experienced, non-sales driven opinion here. Once again, thanks!
Ian
<with kind regards, Anthony>

SPS lighting
Hello Mr Fenner, or whom ever answers :)
<Steven Pro tonight.>
I have had so many mixed opinions about the kind of lighting I need for my 75 gallon tank (48X18X22). I want to have SPS at the top of my rock work. I have this cliff made up and I thought it would be lovely to have a mixture of SPS there. They would be about 8-12" from the lighting. I want to have all verities of clams as well. I would also like to have at the dimmer and shady spots of the tank a few (frogspawn, bubble, open brains) LPS.
I have heard that 2 175watt MH 10K & 2 X 110 VHO actinics will not give all varieties of SPS the light they need. I have heard that I would be better off with the 2 250watt MH 6,500k w/ PC 96 watt actinics or 2 x 110 watt VHO actinics. If I were to get the latter I fear burning the LPS.
<I agree. A real concern.>
I am more crazed with the SPS (addicted more like it) and they would be my main focus. As well as the clams. I guess (though it makes me sad) that I could do without the LPS if it would be the best for them.
I guess I am asking is if for a clam and SPS dominated tank, the 175 watter would be to weak.
My tank specs are; 75 gallon drilled, 20 gallon sump with an Euro-reef skimmer, a 20 refugium on 24/7. 5" DSB and 100lbs LR.
Ammo, Nitrites 0, 5-10ppm of nitrates, pH 8.3-8.5, Ca 450, alk 11dkh (good old calcium reactor!!) temp. 79 degrees, I use only RO/DI water. The tank is 15 months old. I have two clown fish, three cleaner shrimp, snails and my DSB dit-kit (worms-o-plenty) and a pajama Cardinal.
I hope this helps and you won't mind putting up with yet another lighting question. :) Gracie
<It is my opinion that most people that need to opt for higher and higher wattage lamps are using lousy bulbs with a poor spectral distribution. I think the 175's with 10,000K Aqualine-Buschke lamps would be plenty. The best tank I have ever seen uses this setup. -Steven Pro>

Lighting SPS's
Hey guy's, bet you've never heard this one before, but here it goes anyway. I am breaking down my 75G reef tank and moving it to my 135G fish only. Obviously, I have found a home for the fish). I currently illuminate the 75g reef w a 175W-10k MH horizontal pendant (Approx. 18" x 12") along with 2-40W actinic fluorescents and 4x55W PC 10k. I have recently discontinued using the pc's as I saw no additional benefit after a couple of months. My Acros & SPS's are growing very well, but with little coloration. the tank is 48" L so I suspected from the get-go that I was under illuminated for these corals.
<You are correct, sir.>
My question(s) is this: I have acquired 2 additional MH pendants (10K) and plan to use over the 6 ft. long 135G tank. I also have 4x30W fluorescents that I plan to use. In your opinion, will this be enough to color them up--if not, what would you recommend? Your comments are greatly appreciated.
Fred Evans, Dallas, Texas
<That should be sufficient lighting. I would strongly suggest using Aqualine-Buschke or Ushio lamps, either in 10,000K, versus whatever you are currently using. -Steven Pro>

Lighting SPS and Maxima Clams 
All and extra info is appreciated. I have found out from numerous sources that 440watt VHO is not enough to support sps and maxima clams for my 75gal 21"deep tank. Is this true? 
<borderline leaning toward true depending on the species of sps kept and the depth in the tank at which you keep them>
If so I will invest in metal halides. Do you
suggest 2 250watt bulbs or something different? 
<way too much light unless you are keeping the most delicate/difficult and demanding shallow water species. If instead you are happy with hardier Montipora species and common Acroporas (brown, green, tan with some colored tips) then you will be safer and happier with 2-3 175 watt lamps (10K Ushio or AB recommended if not 3-150 watt 6500 k lamps). Your tank isn't deep enough to warrant 250 watt lamps for fear of bleaching any LPS and soft coral you may want to keep as well>
Do I need to supplement with fluorescents or is the metal halides more than enough? 
<more than enough blue in the MH lamps... add only for your aesthetics>
Do I need to hang it from the ceiling or rest it on a canopy? 
<better light from a horizontal mount in a canopy... pendants focus/waster light>
All and extra info is appreciated.
<best regards, my friend... Anthony Calfo>

Lighting
Hi everyone, Bryan Here.
<Good day sir! Hope you are having a pleasant holiday weekend.>
Question about lighting for reef tanks. I have a 75 gallon that I am thinking about keeping some soft corals since I am a beginner in reef setup. Looking at about 260 total watts of lighting, still not complete because I am still researching and haven't decided exactly what I want to add. My question is this, I have been looking at the 48" JBJ Power
Compacts. I have read somewhere though that VHO can give a more blue/fluorescent look and the corals really stand out.
<IME, VHO actinics are superior to PC blue lighting. There are supposedly better PC actinics on the market now.>
I personally like the blue look and was wondering if this is true (about VHO). And if so, can the power compacts give off a more blue with the right bulbs?
<Yes, perhaps now with true PC actinics on the market.>
Last question is, do you want/or is it healthy for the tank to have a more bluish feel/look with the corals.
<It really depends on the corals. Deep water LPS corals do benefit from actinic lighting, but it can be of little benefit to shallow water corals. All things in moderation and you should be ok. No more than 50% of your lighting in actinic for deep water corals and closer to 25% maximum for shallow water species.>
Thanks for all your help.
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Corals Under NO Fluorescents
Hi to you guys there at www.WetWebMedia.com. I hope you all are well. Two months ago, I started my saltwater fish tank and I'm very interested in putting corals in, but I have 5 fluorescent tubes (2 Sylvania coral star blues, 3 normal daylight tubes) all are 36 watts measuring 180 watts of light over my 55 gallon tank.
<Ok>
I have been told I can put in mushrooms, zoanthids, Sinularia, Sarcophyton, Lobophytum and some other soft corals. Is this correct?
<Yes>
Some other websites say that you can also put in brains, candy, torch coral and tongue corals with my levels of light (somehow I don't believe this).
<It will depend on exactly what you mean by these common names. Take brain corals for example. I house a Trachyphyllia under 160 watts of NO fluorescent in a 55, but I would not attempt a Favia or Favites (also referred to as brain corals). The Caulastrea (Candy Cane coral) and many of the Euphyllias (Torch, Hammer, and Frogspawn) would also be ok. Let me suggest you get a copy of Eric Borneman's "Aquarium Corals" as a reference. It is excellent.>
So, guys could you please give me a few species of corals that would live under my lighting levels. I wish you every fish keeping success. Cheers, Brendan
<Have a nice weekend! -Steven Pro>

Lighting Confusion
I have a 125 Gallon reef with mostly LPS.  Its been up and running for 6 years.  I have decided its time to get some SPS.  I would like to up grade my lighting from  700 watts of VHO to MH.  I don't know how much MH to go with.  I' m going back and forth between 175 watt and 250 watt ballasts, and to add to the confusion do I get two or three ballast and bulbs.  The water depth is 18 inches to the top of the sand.  Which way would you suggest I go.  
<unless the tank will only have sps and clams, go with the 175 watt lamps at one per 2 feet. 250 watts of light over many soft corals and mushrooms can harm them in time (photoinhibition). Many LPS corals will outright bleach. 10K Aqualines get my vote. Ushios are quite good here too. No actinics needed. Do read more here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm
best regards, Anthony>

Lighting/Stocking Question
Hi Bob/Anthony/Steven,
<cheers, my friend>
I am setting up a new reef tank.  Need some advice on the lighting.  Firstly, tank specs: Tank size: 72" (l) x 24" (w) x 30" (h) Sandbed depth: 5-6" deep in most part of the tank, which gives an effective depth of 24" Corals intended: Mostly light loving sps e.g. Acroporas/Pocilloporas/Stylophoras.  Some light loving LPSs e.g. Favia/Favites.  And a few Trachyphyllia (which I intend to shield from direct exposure to MH with live rock structures)
<all good... do resist too many LPS here though. Especially the lower light species>
Light:  3 x 400W MH (2 Iwasakis 6500 + 1 Radium 20000 or 4 Ushio 10000, not decided yet) or 4 x 250W MH (2 Iwasaki 6500 + 2 Radium 20000)
<Yowsa... 250 lamps at most here please. Even with sps. Tank is too shallow (under 30")>
It seems like I am sitting on the border between 250W MH and 400W MH.  I have listed my considerations down below a list seeking your treasured opinions:
<easy one here>
1.  Sps will be sited from top of the tank to near the sand bed.  I estimate greatest depth will be around 18-20".  Likely it will be the Pocilloporas at the deeper end.  With this in mind, is the 250W MH enough at the greater depth?  
<yes... its all about water clarity. Weekly carbon and or daily ozone in a perfect world. Yellow water and 400 watt MH will not be as good as 175 watt MH is ozonized water at 18-24"!>
I intend for them to retain their colorful appearance.
2.  400W MH will be 6" from water surface,
<Jeez?!?! Making lava, bub?
250W MH will be 7" from water surface.  
<OK... getting better>
The different height is due to the bulk of the 400W lamp holder. My concern is the presence of a central brace of the tank.  It seems that a 3 x 400W configuration will mean a MH light have a sitting above a 1/2 inch glass which I believe reduces its efficiency.  
<oh, ya!>
What is your take on this?  
<the 400 watt metal halide rage is a joke perpetuated by an industry of rank amateurs. Ha! Ahhh... I'm not shy about an opinion here. What you have are a lot of SPS keepers keeping (and yes growing very well) sps corals in shallow water under 400 and 1000 watt halides, and then finding another reason for the deaths and bleaching events for specimens after 1, 2 and 3 years when photoinhibition is a strong factor. You will be hard pressed to find an aquarist with 400+ watt MH over shallow water (less than 20") with 5+ year success. A lot of folks under 3 years preaching though.>
Offsetting the "middle" 400W MH is not an option IMO as I like both ends of the tank to be equally illuminated.
3.  Yet all the hardcore sps/clam guys are campaigning for the 400W bulbs, (I seem myself moving a little more towards sps already, though not clams), are 400W bulbs an overkill in my tank?
<yep... you need 30" plus to make this argument>
4.  I read that many of the colorful coralline algae do not do well (bleach) close to 400W bulbs, in the event that I do go for 400W, at what depth will I start seeing colored corallines?
<agree in premise, vigor by species. No rule here>
5.  I intend to shield my Trachyphyllia from direct MH lights, if you think it cannot be done, then I will drop the idea of keeping Trachyphyllia geoffroyi.  It should be a major facture in lamp selection.
<they will be fine on the sand bottom under 250 watt. Just acclimate slow (see my fly screen method in the archives under acclimating corals to new light) or in my coral prop book>
6.  The top of the live rock structure will be populated with bushy Acropora.  I understand with 250W MH, I can put them close to water surface (give couple of inches for water changes), but what about 400W MH, can they be kept that high (if placed immediately below the MH bulb)?
<most can be acclimated to the brighter light. Some will not. All can be acclimated to "lower" light if fed well>
7.  I will be installing a 8 gallon dump bucket fed solely by my sump return pump.  Estimate dumping frequency is about one every 45 seconds.  Please advise how much more water movement do I need in such a tank, assuming somehow I managed to keep water movement well spaced and random.
<for sps, aim for a 20X turnover with random turbulent and or surging flow. No wave-timers please...a  waste of money>
8.  Do you know of anybody willing to ship pink Goniastrea?  
<nope... requires Extreme (!) high light that will kill most other corals>
I really appreciate your opinion call on the above, especially the MH. Thanks in advance Edwin
<save some money bud... definitely 250 watts. You won't be disappointed. Best regards, Anthony>

MH lights and coral growth 4/14/05
Dear Anthony
<Cheers>
I am upgrading to 250 watt halides (Arcadia series 3). These are going pride of place over my 130 gallon mixed reef garden setup.
I have the following corals
1 Montipora
1 frogspawn
1 Euphylliid (hammer)
1 Montipora
1 Turbinaria
several Caulastrea colonies
1 sun coral
1 Pavona
various Sarcophytons
<Hmmm... overall a moderate (light) needs tank. It will be good/better if the 250 watt lamps you use are 10k - 20k K in color>
All are placed away from each other and at heights specific for the genus, allelopathy is reduced by regular weekly water changes and regular preening of the softies. My existing light setup is 5 60 watt VHO lights and 1 T5. My question is really what should I limit the halide photoperiod to?
<6-8 hours will be fine here for MH>
Water quality is fair and I get fabulous growth from the Pavonas and frogspawn and Euphylliid. Not so much growth from the SPS hence the reason for the halide upgrade.
<Hmmm... you are a bit mistaken here, perhaps. Water flow (increase) and feeding (try DTs Natural Diet for your SPS corals) are much greater influences on coral growth. Increasing light alone will not improve growth in many cases>
My wattage is essentially doubling so I know I have to go gentle with the adjustment.
<For this gentle acclimation, do a key word/phrase search for "screen method" here in our WWM archives :) kindly, Anthony> 

The Right Light For Beautiful Corals? 10/25/05
Hi, Guys
<Hey there! Scott F. your guy tonight!>
Love your site. A lot of good info.
<Thanks! We're thrilled to bring it to you!>
I have a question for you about lighting for my 90 gal reef tank. I currently have all SPS and Clams in my tank. "Oh" 2 LPS at the bottom. I'm currently running Hamilton 2- 250 watt 10k halides 2-110 VHO actinics. I have been buying a lot of frags on line. For some reason, the colors of the frags don't look the same as in the pics. Is this because I have 10,000 K bulbs?
<It's certainly possible. If you look on many e-tailer's web sites, the corals are photographed under 20k bulbs, which definitely do effect the color of the corals. Some unscrupulous vendors may actually doctor colors with software. I would venture to say that this is not too common, though.>
If it is it OK to go with 14k or 20k radium's. Will the corals be OK.
<Sure, corals will be okay, but there are other factors involved in coral coloration and growth. Water quality, movement, etc. are all in play. There are many hobbyists who maintain beautiful coral-filled aquariums with 10,000k bulbs.>
Also is it normal for the SPS to only come out at night?
<Many corals put out polyps at night.>
I do put bio plankton in in between actinics and moon lights.
<A good time to feed your corals!>
Thanks, Jay 
<A pleasure! Regards, Scott F.>