Light for Coral in Quarantine - 8/15/03
Thanks for the help in advance.  I have read with diligence the info concerning quarantining corals and invertebrates.  Great idea!  
<yes... very necessary to prevent the introduction of pests, parasites, and diseases>
Read about lighting, but have a concern.  Some distributors of corals make (SPS especially) make an effort to tell you about their lighting system and how the corals need specific intensity.  Some even go to the effort of suggesting locations in term of depth to light.  
It is very helpful that they share the params under which they grew their product>
How can you replicate this in the quarantine tank by normal florescent lighting?
<easily my friend... do realize that the PAR of many fluorescent lights in 4-10" of a shallow QT tank (say 10 or 20 gall) can easily compare to that of a MH at depth (12-24"). Most MHs can only deliver 25% or less light read at the surface to the bottom third of the aquarium. And even in cases where you cannot meet the arbitrary high standards of the source, know that QT is not at all about matching these params. Cnidarians can easily be fed to compensate for a lack of lighting (as in QT)... interestingly, the reverse is not true. You cannot make up for a lack of food with extra lights (as some SPS maniacs with 400 and 1000 watt halides seem to think). Corals feed by absorption or organismally. Discover which yours responds to easier and simply kept it fed well under moderate lighting in QT. No worries about color changes... they will come back under bright light. Its just as well, since even bright light corals must suffer the darkness of extended transit for delivery. In some cases, resumed bright lights would be stressful. Great question... best regards, Anthony>

Lighting
Hi guys!
I have another question as usual. When I want to purchase a coral for my tank, I look to see if I can meet it's lighting requirements. How many watts of light is "low light" or "medium light" or "high light?" 
<there is no hard and fast rule about it... all depends on water depth and lamp intensity. Still... halides over shallow water (24" or less) is high light. VHO or PC over 24" or less medium. NO under almost any circumstance is low light>
I have a 120 reef tank with 220 watts of PC and 80 watts of NO. Is this considered low to medium? 
<agreed>
Right now I have a colt coral, some yellow colony anemones, a few different mushrooms, and a bubble tip anemone. Everything seems to be happy. Sometimes I wonder if the BTA has enough light. 
<also agree and a little weak for the colt to. You are feeding the colt phytoplankton? If not, scrape algae off glass often, consider a seagrass refugium and some form of phyto feeding (phyto reactor or properly used/misused bottled substitute>
If I had to judge by looks, I'd say yes. 
<keep your bulbs clean often>
Thanks lots! -Becky
<best regards, Anthony>

2/3/03 - Lighting and coral selection
Hi there, <Howdy. Paul in the hizouse and messing it up after a few too many tacos for lunch......bad breath....I mean.>
would 1 36watt PowerCompact and 1 55 watt power compact light be enough light on a 29gal. <In my opinion that is a very low amount of light for most corals. Without getting into the weak "watts per gallon" argument/theory/thing. I would like to see at least 1 more 65watt PC added to that. Anthony Calfo has written a pretty easy to follow and understand methodology for lighting (So have many others). Please refer to the following links as well as do a search here in the google WetWebMedia search tool: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/index.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm > tank for  toadstool leather <Maybe too little light for most of the Sarcophytons. Please look here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alcyoniids.htm>....finger leather <depending on what is truly referred to as a finger leather the previous link also could apply>....mushrooms <I think you could get away with the lighting you currently have with the corals placed about halfway up your rock structure. See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/corallim.htm>....candy cane coral <Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/faviidae.htm>and green brain coral? <Definitely would need a bit more light as this coral should be placed on the substrate with adequate room for expansion. This coral will inflate itself to not only pan for light sustenance but also as a method of feeding on physical foods such as mysids and other small meaty food chunks. Check this area out for more info: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/trachyphlliidae.htm> if not which ones would be ok with that amount of light? <I really hope you can get more light. Why be limited by less light? Get the most out of the hobby instead of limiting/settling for a few corals at that light range. I have seen new fixtures for around 100 bucks or less through mail order or even DIY projects would be a bit cheaper many options here....since your tank is still cycling, maybe save some money for more light before spending on corals. If not I think the mushrooms and maybe a few zoanthids (beautiful animals can be had from LFS and mail order) may be your best bet. In some cases with inadequate lighting it is possible to keep a great many corals through a proper feeding schedule with proper foodstuffs. This is a more advanced technique and don't recommend to most aquarists. It is difficult to pull off and requires dedication and good water chemistry/husbandry practices. More light would be ideal for the corals you speak of with the exception being the mushrooms>
and what's the highest the phosphate levels should be?<You would be better of reading our coverage on www.WetWebMedia.com. This is a rather large question that cannot be answered briefly in an email. The simple answer is to control their input into the tank, i.e. use purified water and not overfeed. I usually find that water changes with good quality source water, coupled with good protein skimming and the use of a phosphate-free activated carbon product, will really help control phosphate problems.>
thanks allot, <Thank you Eric. Keep the questions coming and have a great day.>
Eric

Coral Lighting needs
Crew,
<Hi David, Don today>
Would a 48" 4x55W Helios compact fluorescent fixture be enough in a 75 gallon tank for most corals?  Or is more lighting needed?
<Well David, 'most corals' is pretty ambiguous. I would say OK for corallimorphs, many polyps, and some soft corals. Most LPS and SPS would be out. What lighting is needed? As written before here, you need to know specifics about what you want to keep. It is difficult (but not impossible) to keep corals that have strong light needs with those that need lower light in the same tank. Use available references to find classes of corals that have the same needs and then progress from there. You will be less frustrated and the corals you choose will be less likely to die from environmental conditions.>
Thanks,
David

Lighting
Hi <Hello DW>
You guys are providing a great service to the aquatic community. <Much appreciated>
I am confused on some lighting issues.  My tank is 96x24wx26h for 240g with a  center bar.  I will keep only SPS and clams.  They will be placed at  all levels. I have noticed a trend in your recommendations toward  higher wattage for SPS corals.  My choices are 4x400w, 6x250w, or 4x250w MH  in the range of 14K.  I will not use actinics.  The ballasts will be  IceCap. <For clams and SPS corals, I would go with the 6x250.  This will give you a little over six watts per gallon, and that should be great for your clams/SPS's.  James (Salty Dog)> Thank you for the help. <You're welcome>
DW

"Modest" Lighting...What's In A Name?
Hello,
<Hey! Scott F. here today!>
First of all, I wanted to tell you that I stopped listening to my LFS advice after going through your site.
<Well, there are many fine local fish stores with experienced knowledgeable employees out there! And we're not the experts on everything, but we do have a significant body of experience (learned the hard way!), so hopefully we can be of service to as many fellow hobbyists as possible.>
Your site is very informative and very well put together. My question is about lighting. I have been doing a lot of research prior to purchasing my corals and I try to pay close attention to the lighting requirements. More often the lighting requirement I find are moderate lighting requirements. How do you quantify "Moderate"?  What does moderate mean?
<Well, I'd characterize "moderate" as being corals that are not as demanding as high-light-loving Acropora or Porites, but not quite low-light-loving. Good examples would be some of the LPS corals.>
I have a 46G bowfront tank with 2 96W PC light which comes down to roughly 3 - 4 watts per gallon. Is this moderate?
<Well, watts per gallon is not a true measure of intensity, but based on the size of your tank, it sounds like this qualifies as "moderate".>
I have a candy cane coral and a green bubble coral.  I would
like to get either a Frogspawn or a Torch Coral but not sure.  The LFS told me that I need to get MH lighting for those animals but they are the same LFS that told me that 79 degrees temp is too hot and that I need a chiller.  Plus they sold me a Powder Blue tang and told me that it will be OK in my environment.
<Okay...now I understand some of your skepticism. In my opinion, you could keep corals such as Green Star Polyps (Pachyclavularia), Xenia, Anthelia, etc.>
Now that I am doing more research, Not quite as gullible.  Is my lighting enough to meet the moderate lighting requirements?
<As above.>
Also, have you ever heard of clown hosting a torch coral or frogspawn?
<I've seen it a few times; not all that uncommon, actually.>
Thanks!
Louie
<My pleasure, Louie! Keep reading, learning and sharing! Regards, Scott F.>