Metal Halides for 120 Gallon Reef – 07/10/08
Hi Crew,
<<Greetings Jeff>>
Really enjoy this web site.
<<Me too!>>
It has been of great help as I learn something new every day. Many thanks.
<<Ah good…and quite welcome>>
I have some lighting questions and would very much value your opinion.
<<Always happy to proffer my opinion, mate>>
My plan is to have a 120 gallon acrylic reef tank (48x24x24) made by Tenecor.
<<I have a Tenecor tank…you will be pleased with them>>
I will have SPSs in the top half and LPSs in the bottom half, fish and no clams. I will do a retrofit style inside a canopy. I will put a fan on the left side blowing air into canopy and a fan on the right side blowing air out.
<<Okay>>
I have done some reading and think the following light system may work: (2) XM 175W 10K SE metal halide bulbs with an EVC 175W Electronic ballast. This combination was tested by Sanjay as having 70 PPFD, 11047 CCT and 181 power.
<<These “readings” are fine…and Sanjay has done some wonderful research…but don’t get too “caught up” in the numbers. Most any quality bulb/electronic ballast combo will do just fine…what you should really look closely at is the reflector you will use as a poor reflector will negate any research you’ve done for the “best” bulb and ballast combo. If you have the room over the tank and the budget for it, I suggest a reflector from Lumenarc. Others will do, but these are among the very best>>
I plan to use a Lumenarc III Mini MH Reflector to increase light to the tank without increasing heat.
<<Ah! I should read ahead… Excellent!>>
This should be enough light (I hope).
<<I do think so, yes… Most “die hard” SPS keepers would go with 250w bulbs/ballasts (some even 400w), but with the quality Lumenarc reflectors you are planning on using, the 175w should do fine in my opinion>>
I will also have (2) blue T5s. The Lumenarc reflectors for the XM bulbs measure about 6.5 inches high. I am not sure how high the edge of the reflector should be from the water but was thinking about 6 inches.
<<Can be, but no closer for sure. I would strive for about 8-10 inches from the surface of the water…less splash/dirtying of the bulbs and a bit less heat transfer…yet still plenty close>>
This would put the bulb itself about 8 inches from the water as the bulb would be sitting about 1 to 2 inches inside the reflector.
<<Ah yes…okay>>
I will be sure to have the bulb over the open water and not over any of the acrylic cover for fear of damage to the tank and its support.
<<Bulbs “too close” to the acrylic can be problematic (I have seen ¾” acrylic that was soft enough to be deflected with a push of your finger…scary), but you have little concern at this distance and with positive air flow across the top of the tank. But still, better to position the MH lighting over “open water” for the increased light transmission>>
Questions and concerns:
1. Is this enough light to do the job?
<<It is… The “light” is not everything though…you will need to feed your corals and provide optimum water quality and essential water movement for them to display at their best>>
I really wanted to do the 250W XM but thought that would produce too much heat.
<<In reality…is likely a small measure of difference overall>>
Chiller does not seem possible for me right now.
<<Do not discount the value of evaporative cooling… Positioning fans to blow over the surface of the display tank as well as the sump and/or refugium can be very helpful here>>
2. Heat - Cannot use chiller (wife veto). I am thinking that can be overcome by the fans in the canopy and 1 fan within the stand. Also the room will be around 75.
<<These will help…but do refer to my earlier comment re placing fans to blow on/across the water where possible>>
3. Am I correct in thinking that a 175watt metal halide SE would produce a good deal less heat than a 250watt SE?
<<I have used both in the past (currently utilizing 250w DE bulbs) and both get “very” hot. Logic dictates that the 250w system will emit more energy as heat than the 175w system, but whether this difference is “sizeable” I do not know…nor do I know exactly how it translates in “transferred energy” to the display. I think much would have to do with the lighting system itself (enclosed vs. open, distance from the water, et al). But I do think the difference in wattage could be “handled” with some increased airflow (bigger/more fans), at the least>>
4. Will the light be even across the tank?
<<Visibly, likely so… and the Lumenarc reflectors will do much for this…though the wide acrylic braces across the top of the tank will impede light if/as they become obscured with salt buildup…but there will still be differences in PAR values at the differing distances and angles from the bulbs, regardless>>
Little worried that the reflectors may cut down on the spread of the light.
<<Actually…the ones you have chosen will probably give you the “best” spread of light for a given distance from the water’s surface>>
Do not want to look at the tank and see dark, light, dark, light, dark.
<<Two of these reflectors over a four-foot tank should be adequate…any “problems” with light spread is likely due to their application (e.g. – too close to the water’s surface)>>
Do not think this will happen but want to be sure. Also will the reflectors hurt the efforts of the fans as the air moving across the tank will hit the reflector and not the bulb?
<<I do suggest adding fans positioned along the top of the tank edge to blow across the water’s surface and “under” the bulbs, as well>>
I think the fans will still be productive as the warm air made by the bulbs will be moving on out of the canopy.
<<This will help, yes>>
5. How many inches should the reflector be from the water? This is one of my main concerns...heat! Do not want it to be higher than it needs to be but for sure want it to be high enough.
<<As mentioned…position the reflector to put the bulb 8-10 inches from the water’s surface>>
6. Will the T5s work well being that high from the top of the tank?
<<The Actinics only provide an aesthetic value to the system…will be fine. The “blue” light needed by your photosynthetic organisms is provided in sufficient strength and quantity by the 10000K metal halide bulbs>>
7. What size area of open water should there be under the bulbs? Want to be sure none of the acrylic tank gets damaged.
<<As much as possible. The openings that come standard with the tank will work…But I will state here that I think the wide top perimeter and cross bracing on production acrylic tanks, while necessary, are a real pain. Not only impeding light transmission but making working in the tank/routine maintenance a real hassle as well. If you have the resources, chat with the Tenecor engineer or sales person and see about increasing the thickness of the top to reduce the overall size of the bracing>>
8. Bulbs. Looking over the data taken by Sanjay the performance of the Ushio 175W 10K SE bulb was very similar to the performance of the XM 175W 10K bulb, except the CCT was 8136 for the Ushio bulb compared to 11043 for the XM, both bulbs were tested with the EVC 175W Electronic ballast. Is this enough of a difference in the CCT to notice?
<<CCT stands for Correlated Color Temperature…is another way of stating “Kelvin”… The Ushio bulb is a bit “warmer” in temperature than the XM per Sanjay’s findings, meaning it will appear more yellow to the eye. Considering the exceptional quality/reliability of the Ushio bulb, and the fact you will be supplementing with T5 Actinics, I feel the Ushio bulb to be the better of the two>>
How would this difference affect the critters in the tank?
<<The warmer bulb here will provide more useful light to the “critters”…and possibly an increase in growth/vitality>>
I am thinking the XM would be more of a blue color.
<<You are correct. The color spectrum of the XM bulb is fine…I am just not a fan of this brand (have seen too many burn-out prematurely), though many hobbyists do swear by them>>
9 Ballast - The performance with the XM bulb was the same with the EVC 175W electronic ballast and the Icecap 175W Electronic. Between these two ballasts which one do you prefer?
<<I have always used/been a proponent of the IceCap electronic ballast… But these components have come a long ways of late, and shopping for price where these devices are concerned may make more sense these days (heck, there’s a chance the ballast you choose is a relabeled component of IceCap’s manufacture)>>
One very quick, off the topic, question.
<<Okay>>
I plan on getting a Euro-Reef skimmer
<<Ahh, excellent choice! (Is the brand I use too!)>>
but not sure which one would be best for my tank. I am looking at the RS100, RS135 and the RS180. Which one would you recommend among these three??
<<You can get by fine with the RS135…but I would be tempted to go ahead and get the RS180 now for that future tank upgrade [grin]…or if you are planning a very heavily stocked system>>
Thanks for the help!
Jeff
<<A pleasure to share. EricR>>

Conflicted over MH for Reef 7/3/08
Hey folks,
<Hello David.>
As the subject line alludes, I am conflicted about whether to upgrade my current lightning scheme (260 watt PC) to a MH fixture. I have an 80 gal with 90 lbs. live rock, one C. cyanea damsel, one Gramma loreto, one tiger pistol shrimp, one A. randalli goby living with the shrimp, one C. strigosus tang, and one Dascyllus trimaculatus. The system has been running for two years. It is a work in progress and has always been intended as a reef tank. I am now at the point where I am ready to add some photosynthetic inverts.
<An eventual progression!>
I am not really interested in, at this time, SPS type corals, quite frankly because they scare me.
<In time they will not.>
I have seen so many dying specimens and skeletons in tanks all over the place that I don't want to contribute to the carnage.
<Start with frags when the time comes, they grow surprisingly fast.>
It could be that I just don't understand them well enough or am unwilling to commit to their more demanding upkeep, but for now I would rather leave them to the experts. I like (and am much more confident in my ability to make happy) most of the soft corals, including mushrooms, xenia type, brain etc. but have always desired to keep a Tridacna clam. I understand from researching your site (Laurie Smith article) that certain Tridacna clams can be kept under PC light in shallow tanks.
<Indeed they can.>
The water is approx. 20 inches deep from the top of the aragonite substrate to the surface. Is my tank too deep for just PC and a clam?
<Not with correct intensity, spectrum and placement.>
Would a fixture consisting of two 150 watt MH bulbs mounted 4" above the tank allow me to keep softies low in the tank/substrate while keeping a clam higher up on the rock?
<Yes.>
Another option would be two 250 watt MH's hung about a foot above the tank or more depending on your recommendation. (These are the fixtures I have thus far found to be in my price range.)
<Given what you are inclined to keep, the 150’s will do fine with the placement you mentioned above depending on the clam.>
Are these two types of invert life (softies/clams) mutually exclusive?
<No.>
I would be happy with ether one of these MH fixtures, or with just keeping the 260 watt PC's as long as the livestock would also be happy with them, which is my greatest concern.
<You could get a lower lighting needing clam such as a Squamosa with this lighting, although any of the Tridacna will be better suited for higher intensity lighting, more PCs or the leap to the MH.>
I really want a clam. So, if I must forgo the lower light loving softies in order to keep a clam I will have to think and do some more studying to see what else can be kept with clams that I feel confident keeping, but there it is.
<I understand, if you asked me to pick one thing to keep, clams it would be!>
I really appreciate this site and the view towards the responsible upkeep of marine life.
<Thank you, it is very much a pleasure to be part of.>
I hate it when I lose a freshwater fish/invert, which I am happy to say is rare, but I am especially sensitive with regards to marine life, most of which cannot be mass produced in a breeders tank.
<Many cannot, but more and more corals/fish are now captive propagated or bred.>
Thanks so much for your help guys,
David
<Welcome, have fun, Scott V.>

Re: My Poor Brain, Hello again! Quick question about lighting. -04/11/08
Will I notice much of a difference if I switch to a dual 175 watt electronic ballast?
I currently am running two magnetic ballasts. I have heard they consume more electricity and fluctuate more throughout the day.
<This is so>
I would like to switch to 14k bulbs, will this be sufficient with the soft coral in a 2' deep tank?
<Mmm, yes... possibly some acclimation/adaptation...>
Or would I benefit switching to 20k 250 watt bulbs?
<See WWM re... I would not switch to the higher Kelvin rating for functionality sake... and only to higher wattage if you can/intend to match other aspects of physiology here>
I do like the 20k look, but not sure if I can get away with it using 175 watt.
<Will include your prev. corr. below... for this size/shape volume (a 65 gal.), the 175's will be fine>
My canopy will not allow a HQI fixture unfortunately.
Thank you for your help! The brain is doing much better, no noticeable regrowth, but the recession has stopped.
Rob
<Ah, good. Bob Fenner>
WetWebMedia Crew <crew@wetwebmedia.com> wrote:
Help with my Brain? he means the one in his tank)
Hello!
<>
I have a 65 gallon (love this size!) tank with a built in overflow. The overflow has a 1" drain and a 3/4" return. (MegaFlow my a$#) They both are used as drains, the 3/4" goes to my refugium. It is a 30 gallon rubber tub with 4" live sand and Chaeto that completely fills it! The 1 1/2" bulkhead drains from this refugium into a ten or so gallon area that houses a DIY skimmer (very pleased with it!), heaters and carbon. This area also receives the water from the 1" overflow on the main tank. Water is then run back to the tank via a "little giant mdc-x" I believe. It is rated 1100 per hour. Water is run into a 1" pvc closed loop with four 1/2" outputs that were heated and squeezed at the ends.
<>
Main tank; 1/2" to an inch of crushed coral
104#s of live rock
No fish,
<>
three fingers, a green toadstool, a red and teal open brain and a couple mushrooms. All up and running for over a year. The tank is lit by two 175 watt bulbs, one 10k and the other 20k. The refugium is on reverse light cycle and is lit by two 65 watt 12k pcs.
Water;
nitrite and ammonia-0
nitrate-0-.5
pH-8.2
Alk- 13dkh
calcium-ran out of the tests..oops was around 450
temp fluctuates between 77 and 80
<>
I have no algae problems and everything is quite stable. I prefer light stocking, although I want to add more a little at a time.
Okay, several questions! My open brain has bad tissue loss, it has reached one of its mouths! I admit, I have been on the road a lot lately and have neglected my duty a bit. There were probably times where it was fed only once a week, maybe less! I know..its not fair to the animals! It still eats, in fact I am still able to feed the mouth that is reduced to half its former glory. I am feeding fresh gulf shrimp and clam. I will feed it as often as it will eat until it hopefully recovers. It gets light only from the 20k bulb, shaded from the 10k. I cant imagine this is too much light, the tank is two feet deep and it doesn't expand to the point that makes me think its reaching for light. It gets just enough current to gently move the flesh now and again. I am adding iodide daily. Should I increase flow, lighting...anything?
<>>
My water seems fine, I am back to weekly 5 to ten gallon water changes. I use instant ocean aged for at least two or three days. Only R.O. water is
used for mixing salt and my top off unit. The top off water is buffered before use.
Another question! I have not noticed much growth in my coral over the past year. I feed my refugium weekly with some flakes or scraps from the food cuttings for the brain. It is full of little white stars and Amphi/cope pods! I have baby snails (Margarita) coming out of my...and there is good Coralline growth. Is there a need to house a small fish or two for nutrients or something?
<>
Other than the feeding the fuge and the brain, I add no other foods.
<>
I do not get it! I have noticed that when I turn my Chaeto over and the tank clouds up a little, that the little hard tubes on my live rock shoot out what look to be old dusty spider webs. It makes me want to stick a feather duster in there and clean it out! I think I know the answer, but just to be safe, could these little guys irritate my coral?
<>
I really appreciate your role in this hobby, you are all a great source of help!
<>
Thank you!
Rob
<>

Question regarding lighting 04/05/2008
Oh Mighty Wet Web Media Gods and Goddesses,
Thanks for all of your hard work and effort. I shudder to think what the tank in my office would look like without all of you! With that in mind, I respectfully submit a question to you regarding lighting. The tank in question is all glass and measures 72? long x 23? deep x 17 ½? wide. It has dual overflows, a 4in sand bed of Caribsea Aragonite with some rubble on top, and approximately 150 lbs. of ?live? rock. It is in the lobby of a non-profit organization dedicated to the needs of children and families. Over 200 people pass the tank each day from newborn to 90. The inhabitants include:
Coral
1 Sinularia flexibilis
1 Sarcophyton sp.
1 Lobophytum sp.
1 Klyxum sp.
A rock of Pachyclavularia sp.
2 species of Actinodiscus
2 species of Ricordea
Inverts
1 Lysmata amboinensis
1 Lysmata debelius
A handful of hermit crabs (which I am considering pulling out.)
A handful of snails (infested with Pyramidellid snails, I believe)
Fish
4 Chromis cyaneus
2 Amphiprion ocellaris
The tank is 20 months old. There have been no new additions in 8 months. My stocking plan includes one more Sarcophyton sp. and a few more mushrooms. I am also interested in Featherduster worms. With regard to fish, I'd like to add a shrimp goby, or pair of shrimp gobies, such as Amblyeleotris randalli or Stonogobiops nematodes, along with a symbiotic shrimp. I'd also like a Paracheilinus mccoskeri. Last, I plan to add either a yellow or a purple tang and maybe a Centropyge loriculus, though I know they can be difficult I am open to suggestions for different centerpiece? fish that would fit into this community.) I am waiting to purchase until I see healthy specimens that are eating well. The right fish is worth the wait. The tank has a Current USA Orbit lighting fixture.
<<One of the tangs mentioned above would be a superb centre piece>>
It is 72?long with dual 10,000k 96 watt bulbs and dual 460nm Actinics. I would like to upgrade. I cant hang anything from the ceiling. I don't have room for a chiller. There is no canopy over the aquarium; however there is a glass top. The glass is in place to keep fingers and flying toys out of the tank. I have also seen people just walk on over and pick up the lights to look underneath. Keeping these things in mind, I am considering the Nova Extreme Pro 12 x 39 watt T5 HO which includes six 10,000k bulbs and six 460 nm actinic bulbs. Because we are a non-profit and I am spending someone else's money, I want to make dang sure that what I am purchasing is worthwhile. Do you think, considering our tank dimensions and stocking list, that it would be worth spending the money to change our lighting system to this new fixture?
<<Certainly, its a nice lighting fixture you have mentioned. However, i would at least fix a warning by the tank explaining that they could get burned from the lighting fixture. Ourselves, as aquarists, are aware of the heat factor, Joe blogs public are not, as you have already mentioned people lift the light, a warning with the fixture quoted above should be in place.>>
Thank you, Kim
<<Thanks for the questions Kim, hope this helps, and good luck. A Nixon>>

Coral Specific Lighting -02/20/08
Hi all,
First let me begin by saying how much I appreciate all you provide to the aquarium lover. I'm new to the hobby and your advice has proven invaluable.
Currently I have a 46 gallon bowfront aquarium with a Current 192 watt, dual daylight, dual actinic compact fluorescent fixture. I also have a Typhoon skimmer, Magnum 300 canister filter, and 25 watt gamma UV sterilizer with 60 lbs. of live rock for natural filtration.
My livestock includes, 2 tomato clowns, an algae blenny, a purple tang ( who will soon have a larger FOWLR home ), 3 peppermint shrimp, and a scarlet cleaner shrimp. I'm new to corals but have had success so far with a Australian Duncan whisker, a silver pulsing xenia and a Montipora digitata ( which has changed from blue to pink ).
My question relates to some LPS I have taken interest in. I'm looking into an Australian Acanthastrea, Micromussa or Blastomussa, and possibly a Lobophillia. Will my existing lighting be sufficient to support these new corals or should I upgrade to a Current SunPod, dual 14k HQI fixture which seemed to be an economical upgrade.
<You don't need much light for Acanthastrea, Micromussa or Blastomussa corals. You might want a little more for the Lobophyllia, but they can also adjust. In any case, you should pay attention to the lighting they are currently being kept under at the LFS so that you can acclimate appropriately. This link might also be helpful:
http://www.asira.org/caresheets>
Thanks in advance for your help.
<De nada>
Shawn Green
Baltimore, MD
<Best,
Sara M.>

Is My Normal Output Fluorescent Lighting Suitable for Anemone and Corals? (The Short Answer Is…No) – 02/12/08
Hello,
<<Hiya, Joan!>>
I read and then reread your article on lighting.
<<And?...>>
I have used Vita-Lites for many many years and thought they would be fine for my introduction of inverts, an anemone to start with, and maybe a coral or two.
<<Mmm, you will need to be more specific than “a coral or two”…and some specifics about your tank would be a big help too...oh, and do read up on our site re anemone systems/mixing with sessile inverts (not recommended). As for the Vita-Lites…these are a great “daylight” spectrum fluorescent bulb, but being a NO (Normal Output) bulb you need a fair number of them over the tank, with actual “numbers” depending on the light-requirements of the organisms you plan to keep. And while it is possible to keep some coral species under NO fluorescent lighting (I did so back in the late-eighties and early-nineties), I don’t recommend this for keeping Anemones>>
The Fish Store says No, I need MORE.
<<Without more information/detail re your system and its proposed inhabitants, I must agree…and I certainly do where the Anemone is concerned>>
I.e. 10K etc and recommend the Coralife compacts.
<<You don’t “need” 10K bulbs; these are usually suggested because they provide a “balance” between what is suitable for/useable to the photosynthetic organisms and what is pleasing to the human eye. In fact, if you like or prefer a lower Kelvin temperature (e.g. – 5500K – 6500K), these will generally provide a better output/PAR rating watt-for-watt than the higher Kelvin temperature bulbs. A mix of 10K and 6.5K bulbs provides far more intensity, as well as light in the more “useful” wavelengths, than a mix of 10K and Actinic bulbs>>
I am sure they are great, but do I really need that much light?
<<The answer here likely is, yes…I am doubtful your NO fluorescent bulbs will support an anemone>>
Especially when a retrofit is $200+ on sale.
<<Unfortunately, the price of lighting suitable for keeping many/most of the reef-associated photosynthetic organisms often proves to be as much as one-third the cost of the entire reef system. If you do decide to upgrade, I would like to recommend T5 fluorescent lighting over the PC fluorescent lighting. Not that the PCs can’t work, but the T5 is better technology in my opinion, and has greater bulb selection/allows more flexibility over the PCs. The smaller size of the T5s will also allow more bulbs to be fitted/placed over any given tank size>>
Please drop me a short note with your ideas.
<<You have my thoughts…do write me back if you wish to discuss further>>
Joan in Seattle
<<Regards, EricR in Columbia>>

Bigger Marine Tank Coming...Which Lighting Choice? – 07/25/07
Hi guys,
<<Daniel>>
I have got 30-gal reef tank for about 9 months. My lovely wife is gonna buy me 90-gal (48*18*24h) next month for my 30 birthday
<<Sweet>>
(aren't the Polish women great?)
<<Indeed, so it would seem>>
And finally my question is:
What kind of light should we purchase?
<<Mmm, much to consider here...have you read through our lighting articles/FAQs? Here’s a good place to start, and do continue to follow/read among the links in blue: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm >>
I have two options:
-8x54w T5
-2x150HQI+ 4x54w T5 (actinic)
I am gonna keep there some SPS (just a few like 5-6) and rest are gonna be LPS. Remember that tank is high (24 inches), SPS are gonna be just under the water surface,
<<Be sure to allow room for growth>>
are T5 gonna be ok, or I need definitely buy MH?
Regards'
Daniel P
<<I think it very likely the T5s will do just fine. But before you make “any” purchases, do be sure to read where I have directed you...and do identify/research the organisms you plan to keep. EricR>>

Coral Lighting 4/13/07
Hello,
<Hello, whoever you are.>
I was looking to upgrade my lighting so I can add some corals to my 36 gallon tank. It has 45 pounds of live rock and a Clown Goby and Flame Angelfish. It has been a FOWLR, set up for a little less than 4  months. I wasn't sure what type of lighting to get, and how many watts, so  I need to decide what corals I would like to keep first. These are some corals I  have looked at.
Orange Sun Coral - They say it's hard to keep, but you need to feed them 4 times a week directly to the coral, and they require strong current and low   lighting.
<Yes, a hassle to keep.>
I have a strong SEIO 620 powerhead.
I was also looking to add Montiporas, Brain Coral, and some  soft corals, along with a Ricordea Mushroom. Suggestions for corals would be  nice to work under one lighting. Don't want something real strong, but maybe  about 3-5 watts per gallon would be good.
<A 150 watt HQI would work well here for corals you have mentioned.  If aesthetics or wife are not a problem, the Coralife Clip On fixture would work well and sells for around $230.00 at most etailers.  I got mine from Drs Foster & Smith.
James (Salty Dog)>

MH Tweaking   3/31/07
   Hello there,
<Hi from HI>
    I bother your crew way to
<too>
much so I will be short and to the point.
<Sort of like me!>
125G display, all SPS, predominately Acros.  Previously ran 3X400W radium 20Ks but my corals became very pale some bleached at the tops on an 8 hour photo period 14" from the surface.
<Yikes... ever try placing your face this close to these lights?>
I downgraded to 3X250W 20K Radiums, they run 9 hours @ 10" from the surface, and while the undersides and deeper Acros show more color, the higher placed corals are still very pale.
<Mmm... have you heard of the term "photo-acclimation"?>
I don't have a single coral in my tank I would consider "stunning"  they were all "stunning" when I bought them, however they quickly grow very pale.
<Can/could be a few "things" at play here...>
I have tried adjusting the height however it takes so long to notice any change I feel fairly lost.
<The lighting needs to "start" higher, screened, electronically dimmed... the animals lower... however less-intense initially... graded to brighter over a few weeks time...>
My question is having ruled out all other factors like chemistry/flow/etc. and being fairly confident my problem is related to Photo period/distance from water, what suggestions would you give me as a place to start and how long would you give it to notice positive change?
<Mmm, please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm
and the linked files above>
Is there something else I am missing in regards to this pale plague?
<Mmm, could be... as stated, there are other possibilities... and you've presented no real data re actual measures, set-up, maintenance... Not a mind reader... but do have very strong intuition at times>
Color aside the Milli's grow .5-.75"/month, the Montis grow like weeds, even the very thick branched Acros are growing at a very pleasing rate, they just look like crap.
<Can you define this? Or send a pic? Not of the fecal material... Heeeee!>
All frags show low/medium daytime extension and crazy full bloom moonlight extension.
<Okay>
   Any guidelines or pointers would be great.  The only other piece of info that's relevant is that I did start the new 250s at about 20" and brought them down 1" per week until they hit 10-11"
<Oh! Well that's an equine of a different hue altogether... Perhaps there is some sort of allelopathy at play here... Again, you don't present a stocking list...>
  I don't know WWM crew, getting pretty frustrated.  Thanks for your time,
   Jeff
<Guess so. BobF>

Re: MH Tweaking, pale scleractinians...   4/1/07
  SG: 1.026
  PH 8.3ish
  dKH 10ish
    CA  400ish
<Mmm... what is your Magnesium? Easy for this to get out of balance with Kalk use, some types of melted media in Calcium reactors>
  20G water changes every Sunday
  I only keep a couple of fish (pair of black percs, pair of F. Pseudo's, Six Line.  I have a peppermint shrimp, 2Xskunk cleaners, and a pistol.
  Flow is achieved with a Oceans Motions 4 way on a 4800GPH External Pump.
  I under skim slightly, using a 240G rated skimmer on about 300ish gallons
  I run a CA reactor and drip Kalk.  CA reactor maintains about 10.2 dKH   Kalk is only about 5G per week.  but holds the PH and CA steady.
  I have undetectable Nitrate/trite/PO4
  All water is with RO/DI with a TDS of 0
  The 300g system is split 125G display, 80G sump, 75G fuge, and a little 25g AquaPod for a Mantis species only.
<All this sounds/reads very well/as good...>
  All in all I feel like I have built a good system and I have good husbandry, I just have pale corals.  I don't use any additives at all except about 1.5ml of P. Iodide daily
<Mmm, I would add this only once a week... during water changes... This alone could be "the" problem here... I would not add Iodine/ide/ate more often than this unless you had good tests for, and a real need...>
or at least when I remember to.  I feed the corals reef chili about 2 or 3 times per week.  I have a wide variety of Acro species (maybe 12 different) plus Pocillopora, Pavona, Montipora, all of which are pale in color.  Bleachish tips, pale branches.
<Mmmm...>
   I hope this provides the extra info you were looking for,  thanks again for your time.
<And lastly... am sure your water temperature is rather stable... Thank you for this further information, follow-up. I would expand your feeding menu here... including the addition of vitamins, HUFAs (like with the use of a product like Selcon). Bob Fenner>

Re: Coral lighting vs. water flow   1/4/07
The plate has been on sand since we first received it.
<Ah, very good. Read like it was placed in the rocks, I apologize for this misunderstanding.>
Our goby seems drawn to burying the plate in the night, so the plate coral has been moved twice which I would guess creates stress on it.
<Yes, sand sifting gobies are certainly good at this activity *grin*>
Still, some readings indicated that hard corals do fine under tumultuous water conditions (which the goby is good at replicating!)
<I think this largely depends on the species>
Our lighting is a  150 watt metal halide spotlight with 2-  30 watt florescent lights across the  6 ft. long 125 gal. tank. Since we moved the brain coral to a higher water movement area it looks a bit better even though it is farther out of the range of the spotlight.
<Good. These corals are not the highest in light demand.>
The soft corals seems to  thrive directly under the spotlight and particularly where water flow is strongest.
<Sounds like they're happy as is>
We are not looking to have a tank so bright and as tumultuous as we see at LFS's, but we do need to know what we need to provide what our corals and fish need in order to thrive.
<It sounds like you've got a good handle on things, Gloria. Just keep with your current husbandry, and I feel everything will establish comfortably in time.>
Thanks, again, Justin for your time. We really do take your advice very seriously.
Gloria
<Thank you for the kind words, Gloria. The pride in feeling you've helped your fellow hobbyists is certainly reward enough. -JustinN>

Coral Lighting   8/21/06
Hi gang, great site it’s been a source of information for me for many years.
<Glad you enjoy/learn.>
I am in the process of planning out a new 125 gallon SPS reef.  I’ve had a 55 gallon Zoa tank set up for the last 2 years and I’ve been very successful
with it and now I’d like to upgrade to something a little more challenging.  
That being said, I have a few questions on lighting.
I had initially planned to go with 3 250watt MH HQI (10000k) and also use 220 watts of VHO 20000k for some additional color.  However, I was told that
I’d need to go with 3 400watt MH HQI for Acro frags.
<Who told you that, Edison?>
I question this; it seems like an ungodly amount of light for a tank of this depth and I worry it would overwhelm even the most demanding corals and I wanted to get your
thoughts on it.
<Three 175 MH's should work fine providing they are not pendant lights.>
Second, I plan to use my old 55 as a fuge with a remote DSB and would like to place some of my more colorful Zoa colonies in the SPS tank (probably more towards the bottom) for additional color.  I run activated charcoal regularly to help maintain water clarity and I skim aggressively, with that said, do you see an issue with the Zoa's in a SPS tank?
<I'd filter with Chemi-Pure in this regard.  You will have some chemical aggression taking place here and we want to minimize the chemical content in the water.  If you are going to mix corals, stay away from the potent types like Galaxy, Elegance, etc.  Do search our site and others for Allelopathy/Chemical Aggression.>
Thanks,
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
John

Candy Cane Coral...Turn Off Your Brights  - 05/19/2006
Hello WWMC !!
<Hello Esteban>
Always a pleasure to have someone to send an e-mail too that will guarantee a great response!
<Thank you.>
I have had a nice colony of about 15 1 inch pink Caulastrea (trumpet coral) <Caulastrea curvata>  about halfway vertical up my 125 gallon and half way horizontal in the tank.  I was using two 175 watt MH's on for 10 hours and two 6 foot blue HQI actinic bulbs on for 12 hours (1 hour on before the MH turn on and 1 hour after the MH shut off) for about 3 months.  The colony would come out beautifully - which after my reading I am guessing was because it was reaching out for more light.  Well, I switched the MH's to two 250 MH's running for 10 hours, and the same 6 foot bulbs running for 12 hours.  That was last month.  About two weeks ago, I noticed that the heads of the coral were not as expanded as before.  They will come totally out for an hour or so in the middle of the 10 hours, then close back up.  Their tentacles still come out when I am feeding the tank.  I'm worried that something might be wrong?  The water levels are still consistent with No ammonia, Nitrite, PH 8.5, nitrates around 40, calc 440, 1.025 SG.  I have not changed my usual dosing of iodide, C-balance, Reef Calc, Reef Plus, Reef Complete or Magnesium.  Should I consider moving the coral lower in the tank?  Is it getting too much light?
<I think they are going through a light adjusting period with the more intense lighting.  These corals only require moderate light and they generally do not open their feeding tentacles until the lights go out.  My Candy Cane <furcata> has never opened during the daylight photoperiod.  You may want to try putting them in the lower level of the tank to encourage opening.>
Thanks mucho!
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>

LPS Lighting (One More Time!) - 05/18/06
Dear Eric R.
<<Hello Diane>>
It's been a long time since I've written in and the first time to you.
<<Welcome back>>
I have been trying to follow Bob's advice; read, read, read some more, then make up your own darn mind.  (To paraphrase).
<<Indeed>>
Well, I got the first part down.  However, just when I thought I had this lighting figured out I went to a different LFS and POOF! here we go again.
<<Ha!...nature of the beast/hobby...opinions abound!>>
If you would be so kind to go over what I have and help me straighten this out.
<<Would be glad to provide my input>>
We have a 125 gal. acrylic tank 72" X 18" X 20"  with a 6" DSB.  Lights hang 11 to 12" above the water line and can be raised or lowered as needed.
<<Ok>>
The lights are two 36" Power Compacts, the left-one is SunPaq 10,000K/460-Actinic and the right-one is SunPaq  Dual-Daylight 6,700/10,000K.  The halides are 3 X 175 watts.  Left is 6500K, middle is 20,000K and right is 14,000K.
<<Mmm, why the variation across the length of the tank?  Are you attempting to create differing "zones/niches"?>>
The yellow of the daylight halide is tempered by the blue of the actinic and the blue of the 14K Halide is tempered by the yellow of the daylight PCs (the 20K is because I have read so many raves and Anthony's book BOCP says for LPS you can go bluer.)
<<Ok>>
Well yesterday we went to a different LFS and they had the MOST beautiful corals!  We purchased several and during the selection and bagging process I questioned the manager as to his procedures for maintenance and lighting. He told me that 15K are THE best and that my 6500K should only be used for high light SPS.
<<Too "general" a statement...I disagree>>
Now Drs. Foster and Smith will let me return bulbs for replacement but am I that far off with my lights?
<<I don't know, what are you keeping/trying to accomplish with this lighting?>>
There can't be that much difference between 14K and 15K!
<<Or even 20K...agreed>>
However, I am not sure about the 6500K and the 20K.
<<A marked difference in spectral output...but the 6500K still contains enough "blue light" for most all corals>>
We have: (all bought yesterday),1 6" green Bubble (Plerogyra sinuosa), 1 6" Favites (?) shared corallite walls.
<<Favites, yes...a shared wall between the calyces>>
They are both under the 65K with the Favites on the sand and the Bubble three inches higher, on a rock.
<<It may be fine, but keep an eye on the Bubble coral.  Plerogyra are not high light requiring corals, if the "bubbles" looks to be turning brown or stop expanding, do move it lower/to a more subdued lighting location>>
One 4" green Long Tentacle Plate/Disc (Fungia scutaria) on the sand under the 20K with the most gorgeous green Fox (Nemenzophyllia turbida) also under the 20K but under a ledge.  To the right of them are 2 separate pieces of Branching Hammer (Euphyllia parancora) consisting of 8 and 9 heads respectively (after adaptation, thought of moving apart under different lights to experiment?).
<<Sure>>
They are also placed just three inches above the sand bed, however the highest two heads are 6" below the water line and they are centered between the 20K and the 14K.  Now, under the 14K is my baby, an Open Brain coral (Trachyphyllia geoffroyi) whom I’ve had 2 years now.  She is not the vivid color when I purchased her (bright green and deep maroon) but I would swear in the last few days her red is coming back!
<<Maybe had "too much" light before hand.  It's not a hard and fast rule by any means, but many LPS with "red" pigments require/demand lower light levels than those with "green" pigments>>
The new bulbs are either more to her liking or else the color was always there and I just couldn't see it under the old 5500Ks.  
<<A bit of both>>
After all that I guess my questions are, is the 6500K that bad?
<<Nope...especially considering the wattage/distance you have the bulbs above the tank.  That's not to say I think it's the best bulb for your particular selection of livestock.  Speaking for me...for an LPS dominant tank I would go with a higher Kelvin rating...10000K is a good "all around" spectrum...but in this instance I would be tempted to go with a quality 14000K or 20000K bulb for each fixture.  Much depends on your own sense of aesthetics and what your trying replicate in your system>>
(I have a 10K that I can replace it with but it is WHITE!)  Am not interested in SPS (never say never).
<< <grin> >>
Is the 20K a good bulb for LPS?
<<With enough intensity, yes.  If you go with 20000K I recommend you move the lights to within 6-8 inches of the water's surface>>
The blue look is nice and the corals are beautiful under them but I want what is best for the animals (short of leaving them in the oceans of course).
<<...of course>>
These are the only corals I want with the possible addition of a nice Hammer (E. ancora) and maybe, sometime down the road a ways, I would love to have an Elegance (Catalaphyllia jardinei).
<<Do please read up/research the Catalaphyllia well (you can begin here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/elegance.htm).  This is not an easy coral to keep, and is best tried in a specie specific system designed to/for its care>>
Thank you so much for your time and patience.  All of you are appreciated and I hope one day you will all know how much!
<<Thank you for the kind words...we're happy to assist>>
Wishing you the best of life, Diane.
<<And to you in kind, Eric Russell>>
P.S. the LFS is ATM in Las Vegas, Nevada the one on the corner of Patrick and Sandhill in the Southeast part of the valley.  Beautiful corals and good prices.
<<Hmm, will have to make a point to stop in next time I'm in Vegas.  EricR>>

LPS Lighting (One More Time!) II - 05/20/06
Polyp Bailout in Branching Hammer
Dear Eric, Thank you so much for answering so quickly. You guys (yes, and gals) are great!
<<You're welcome...and thank you>>
But it seems quick as you were problems arise quicker!
<<Uh oh>>
The Branching Hammer has just been dissolving continuously since adding them to the tank.  I have been reading for two days now and since 2 a.m. this morning,  But other than photo shock (?) which I didn't think happened that quickly, I am at a loss.  I have also siphoned off two more gooey brown heads of the Hammer.
<<Mmm, photo shock "can" have a rapid effect, especially if the coral was already stressed...but from the "gooey brown" description, I'm inclined to suspect a bacterial/protozoa infection.  Though admittedly pure speculation, but have you read through our coral disease FAQs?>>
I separated the two pieces, leaving the best (?) of the two in its original location and moving the other to the far left end where I have removed the 6500K halide (to be replaced by another 14K Thank You <<welcome>>).  I also dipped this piece in an iodine mix of one quart aquarium water and ten drops Lugol's for ten minutes.  It only has two heads, out of nine, that look even halfway viable so I figured we had nothing to lose.  The other piece has two heads that look great and two that look iffy.
<<I would dip "both" pieces in the iodine solution:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/iodfaqs.htm >>
We bought these corals on the 17th of May and this is the first day the Green Bubble has inflated but it is no longer the fluorescent green it was in the store, but rather a much paler green.
<<Hmmm, would have thought the bubble coral to inflate before now...possibly telling (something in your water parameters?).  The color is "possibly" a function of the lighting...maybe the LFS had more "actinic" over the coral in the store>>
The Long Tentacled Plate is starting to show himself and the Fox looks to be doing O.K.  Only the E. parancora crashed (but I know it's still real early in the game).  At the LFS the corals were in maybe six inches of water approximately 18 inches under 175 watt 14 and 20K (3).  The salinity was 1.025 but I forgot to ask about pH.  Anyhow I drip acclimated them over four plus hours and swore I would not move them around for at least 2 weeks if at all.  But I'll probably move the Bubble lower when the new bulb gets here.
<<Okay>>
Right now it is about 16 inches to the left of 20K, 5 inches below the water surface and 15 inches under the 10K/actinic P.C.  My water parameters are temp. 80 ; salinity 1.025; my pH was 8.3 at 6:30 last night and 8.0 at 7 this morning.
<<Is fine>>
I had added 1 tsp. Seachem Reef builder directly to the tank in an effort to get my alk. up from 2.5.  Added it last night and this morning my alk is 3.  Amm. is 0, nitrites are 0, but my nitrates are 10.
<<Mmm...possibly a result of the decomposing Euphylliid...or an indication something else is amiss>>
I have a 6 inch DSB and never had a problem with nitrate.  I use a Turboflotor-Multi HOB skimmer and (temporarily) an Aquaclear 110 with 2 new bags Chemi-pure and one Polyfilter.
<<Both good stuff>>
My iodine kit showed no iodine even after a couple of small water changes (approx. 20%) over 2 days so I added 4 drops Lugol’s, still nothing on the test so I added 3 more drops, still nothing this morning.
<<Hmmm...>>
I use I.O. salt and the new water tests at .05 iodine, (perhaps the chemical filtration).
<<Ah...yes>>
Water movement is with 3 Aquaclear 70s
<<...?  Aquaclear 70 power filters?  How often do you clean these...should be done "at least" weekly>>
and 1 Seio 820.
<<Some additional "vigorous" water movement would likely do this tank some good as well>>
I don't know what else to do except maybe another small water change today to get the nitrates back to zero.
<<I recommend a 30-40 percent water change>>
I did not think my set-up was that different from the LFS where all the corals looked fantastic!  Do you have any suggestions.
<<Mmm, yes...dip both Euphylliids again (remove any diseased/dying heads first), perform a 40% water change, and keep monitoring water quality/performing water changes as needed>>
The sad thing is I truly love the Euphylliid family and could easily picture a tank of just them.
<<Would be beautiful I'm sure.  Don't give up...get over this hurdle, learn from the experience, and pursue your dream tank>>
One more thing.  Do they dye corals?
<<Some...mainly "soft" coral species...a terrible practice>>
The Bubble was a very vivid neon green and the Fox is bright, almost fluorescent green. (But the Hammer is/was a more normal brown and green).
<<Is rather unlikely these were/are dyed corals...have not heard of this being attempted with stony/LPS corals.  Regards, Eric Russell>> <Unfortunately... I have. RMF>

Frogspawn & other various corals ... health, sys.   - 03/26/2006
Hi I am currently having a small problem with my frogspawn and my maze brain coral. My setup is an 80 gallon peaceful reef with metal halides (double ended) actinics and moon LEDs. Last week I installed the LEDS and I also left the glass off of the tank on the right side. The brain has since had a mucus coating and does not open up very much. I blew off the mucus the first day and thought that I had "burned" the coral.
<Reads like this>
The frogspawn has about 6-7 different colonies I guess you could say. They have been opening up huge until I left the glass off but they are not directly under the light. Now only 2-3 open up and maybe only get about halfway to what they were doing. All of my water parameters are the same and I add a full regiment of Kent additives. I also have a leather that is on the opp. side of the tank and it looks waxy and no polyps are coming out like they used to. My LFS said that they do this to expel waste and algae, etc.
<This is so... you want to remove this waxy material once it is shed>
every once in awhile. I guess that my main question is how can I help my frogspawn and brain back to good health. I am very appreciative of your website and all of the help that it provides.
Thanks,
Dustin
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Lighting/Corals  3/22/06
Hi, <Hello Zach.>  I'm in the process of setting up a new reef tank.  I have run a poorly planned but successful reef tank for about half a year now, so knowing what I know now I am definitely interested in planning the system before I start. The primary purpose of the new tank is going to be coral propagation (mostly soft/polyp to begin with, then if all goes well sps).  I already have the tank, its a 40 breeder so it is not very deep.  I am wondering about what to get for lighting.  I think I would prefer a setup with at least 1x150W metal halide.  I was wondering what the limit for lighting on a shallow tank like this would be for soft and Zoa corals?  The tank is only 16" deep so I was wondering about the possibility for too much light.  I am considering systems up to 2x250 10k MH + 2x39 t5 actinics. I am interested in if this much light would be too much, and if not, is there any advantage (other than being ready for more light loving corals) to having this much light in terms of soft/Zoa growth.  <Zach, would be very difficult to out-do Mother Nature's lighting.  No worries about too much light.  I would suggest a fixture with two 150 watt HQI lamps, 10-14K. You will then be ready when you decide to do SPS corals.  Do take a look
at the HQI clamp-on fixture (HQI) available from www.drsfostersmith.com.>
Thanks in advance.  <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
-Zach

SPS lighting   1/30/06
Crew- <Craig>
Quick question:
I am planning on putting some SPS about halfway up the rockwork in a 300 gallon tank (31" high). I am also planning on trying different lighting
schemes throughout the tank. I would like to leave some recessed lighting on the ends so that private entreats exist for more reclusive fish to feel
comfortable. Since I do not want the whole thing lit up like the midday sun, I am only planning on putting 400 watts of 20K metal halide on the middle
third of the tank (a length of about 32"). If the SPS are put directly below the fixture 1-2ft deep, would this amount of light likely suffice? Let me know
if this is ill-advised. <Sound be a pleasing effect, no worries my friend, sounds good.>
Thanks as always, <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Craig