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FAQs on Copper Use, Toxicity, Troubleshooting/Fixing

Use of copper entails... understanding... the basics of what this material does... is a proteinaceous precipitant to fishes... making them slimier... Some fishes as species, individuals can't take much of this... along with present state of health, other stressors... You must treat carefully, with testing, be ever-vigilant in observing your livestocks' behavior. Be ready with new/stored water for change-outs.

Kent Marine Tech M and copper??? 9/8/08
Good evening guy/gals.
<Good evening.>
Thanks for all the great work you do for the rest of us. It is greatly appreciated!
<Thank you!>
I was just about to order more Kent Marine Tech M when I looked at the contents of the product it says it contains copper, is that correct?
<Yes.>
If so, why is it safe to put in a reef tank?
<It is such a small, trace amount.>
Here is a list of the contents from the online retailer:
Contents:
Deionized water containing the following elements (as ions): magnesium, chlorine, sulfur, calcium, potassium, bromine, strontium, boron, fluorine, lithium, rubidium, iodine, iron, molybdenum, zinc, nickel, copper, manganese, vanadium, cesium, cobalt, tungsten, selenium, and chromium.
Is it because of the form it's in? Sorry, I am not very good at chemistry. I'm sure it must be safe, I would just like to know why.
<It just has to do with the quantity of copper, or any other ingredient for that matter. Many things we regard as poisons are found in virtually everything in small amounts, almost immeasurable in many cases. Fact of it is many of these “trace elements” (everyone start arguing which salt now!) are needed in small quantities for life to exist. It is in artificially elevated levels it becomes an issue.>
Thanks for your time.
<Welcome, have a good one, Scott V.>

Gobioides broussonetti in SW, Copper in foods 9/4/05
Hello, I have searched your FAQs for information on the Gobioides broussonetti, also known as the violet goby, or dragon fish. I was unable to obtain anything of help. I am aware that they are a brackish fish. Mine is currently in a fresh water tank with two Apteronotus albifrons, black ghost knife fish. I recently removed my snowflake eel from my 55 gallon saltwater tank and was curious if the dragon fish can be acclimated to the conditions of my reef tank.
<Can be done... this fish is marine at times, in places. Here on fishbase.org: http://www.fishbase.org/Summary/speciesSummary.php?ID=3856&genusname=Gobioides&speciesname=broussonetti>
The lack of the eel leads me wanting something of its character. If this is possible, a procedure would be greatly appreciated.
<Slowly... a few thousandths per week, raise the saltwater/salinity of the Goby's environment (sans the knives of course)>
One more unrelated question. I recently noticed that both the flake food i use in my reef tank, (Wardley's) and the frozen brine shrimp, (Ocean Nutrition Brine Shrimp Plus) have copper sulfate listed in the ingredients.
<A common preservative>
I was under the impression this would kill invertebrates and have discontinued use but have had no adverse side affects. Any input on this matter also would be greatly devoured. I thank you for your time.
<Can be problematical in "free" concentration (cupric ion), but there is not much in the foods, and this quickly "falls out of solution". Bob Fenner>

Copper Catastrophe 9/23/05
Hi,
If I ever needed your amazing advice, it's now. I had a major disaster in my 72g reef tank. A copper top battery sitting near the tank rolled off the table and into the sump. It was in there for maybe 5 hours before I found it. The top was pretty corroded. The tank has about 7 LPS, 3 fish, many crabs and snails-all of which look like death warmed over. I did a 50% water change immediately and 5 bags of ChemiPure to the sump. Is all hope lost?
From my understanding, all 75 lbs of live rock/50 lbs of sand and the entire tank are now lethal to invertebrates. <Mike, the acid in the battery is more lethal than the copper. The copper still has to turn into solution. Ditto on keeping your fingers crossed, maybe even the legs also. James (Salty Dog)>
Fingers crossed,
Mike

Right Thinking -- Wrong Timing... 12/5/05
I recently purchased a med. size Raccoon Butterfly for my 55 gallon fish only tank. I have 2 False Percula Clowns, and 1 medium size Blue Tang. On the 3rd day I noticed the raccoon scratching on my fake coral and not eating. (The only thing he would eat was frozen brine.) I checked my water and copper and all fine. I brought it to the shop I bought it from and they said it was fine, but to add some more copper.
So I did , and it was just above .15 The next morning he stopped scratching, but that night when I got home, he was breathing heavy and sitting on the bottom of the tank, and still wouldn't eat. I noticed as I got him that my tang and him were getting along just fine. So I don't think he was being bullied. I put him in my hospital tank, after a brief FW dip, and he is laying on his side breathing very rapidly. He probably won't make it. I was just wandering if you had any ideas of what might of been the problem.
Thanks, Aaron
<Well, Aaron, this is a case where all of your intentions were good, but the execution was a bit off. First, you indicated that you have a "hospital tank", which is good! However, you need to use it as a quarantine BEFORE adding new fishes to your display. This will give you the ability to catch and treat illnesses before they get introduced into the display. Also, do think about the long-term implications of your stocking plan.
These fishes need a lot more space than a 55 can provide, so consider this...
Next, it is always advisable NOT to treat in the display tank, for a variety of reasons. Use that extra tank. Copper sulphate, although highly effective at treating many diseases, can be hard on many fishes, including Butterflies.
<<Butterfly-fishes are one of the few animals the staff at the LBAOP will NOT use copper meds on. Marina>>
Sometimes, the collateral damage caused to the fish in treating the disease is too great. Formalin-based treatment is recommended in the case of more copper-sensitive fishes. Again, you'll have far greater control of the dosage in a separate tank.
Unfortunately, it's hard to say what you're looking at, but it could be a parasitic illness. If your Butterfly is struggling, you may need to reduce the copper level in the treatment tank. Although it may be too late for this fish, if you take this as a valuable lesson, the experience will not have been in vain. Chin up! Don't forget to quarantine before adding fishes to the display! Regards, Scott F.>

Porcupine puffer disease diagnosis... unsuitable water quality, copper exposure, - 01/12/2006
Hello,
Your web site seems quite helpful in disease diagnosis, so I hope you can help. I have a 100 gal. saltwater tank that I have had for about 8 months and have had the porcupine puffer for about 7 or so. The problem is that he has not eaten anything in the last 2 weeks, he is still very active and always greets me with excitement.
<... have you read on WWM re feeding puffers, Diodontids?>
The water quality is good salt 1.022

ammonia 0, nitrites 0, nitrates less than forty
<Keep under twenty...>
as far as can tell. I do use copper in the recommended dosage
<Stop! This is toxic to your livestock... should not be used on a continuous basis... some folks think never on puffers... can/will account for the non-feeding by itself>
and have so since I have had the tank.
<This is a mistake>
He shows no external signs of disease, he acts hungry when I bring his feeding cup around but when i put the shrimp in he goes for it once or twice then just lets it fall to the bottom. Before I could barely feed my bottom feeder because he would eat everything I put it. I know I need to vary his diet other than shrimp but as of now he does not want to eat, food suggestions would be helpful. The damsel, Sailfin, and snowflake eel are all happy/healthy fish. I don't know what to do he does not match any disease charts he just wont eat. Thanks
<... not a disease, unless you consider iatrogenic/induced, poor supplied circumstances as cause... Read on my friend. Your answers are on WWM. Bob Fenner>

Stuff the Tang
Hi, <Hi - Michael here today> Thank for helping people like myself who care so much about our creatures. <We do our best, thanks for the compliments> I have a 55 gal tank with a Sailfin tang, <Will eventually outgrow a 55 IMO> two fire fish , one emerald crab, one turbo snail, two live rock and one 10lb premium rock with a clam, lots of cup coral and some other creatures. I have a copper question. I spilled about a 1&1/2 cups of copper water from my quarantine tank into my 55 gal tank. <OUCH> I had been treating a regal tang that I felt I wasn't ready for and traded it for the Sailfin. At the time of the I was running an undergravel filter, 802 powerhead and a 400 emperor filter with carbon and PhosGuard media added. <If it's good quality carbon that will go a long way toward absorbing the copper> I did a water change. <Good - how large? 50% or more I hope> I had two skunk cleaner shrimp in the tank at the time of the spill. <The copper will most likely kill any invertebrates in your system> I am wondering would this copper have killed them a month later? <If they died a month after the spill, it could have been stress related, likely because of the spill> They both died in the same manner one died Thursday morning, and the other Sunday night. They both began to stay in the same place a lot not eating much and began to be really still. Then a few minutes before they died they swim upside down, let the current blow them and around, they were really jerky. Could the copper take this long to kill them if this was the cause? <Not likely, but possibly. Probably secondary effects of the copper killed them, though> Will it kill my emerald crab and snail. <If it hasn't done so in the past month, probably not, but definitely run large quantities of high quality activated carbon in your filters, or a Poly Filter to absorb any excess copper. I would also get a copper test kit and see if you have a measurable level still left in your tank> If so what can I do to prevent their deaths? <above :)> I have only had the snail a few days and he seems to be doing fine. I do use regular tap water, instant ocean, and proper ph 8.2 when I change my water every two weeks. My nitrates have been getting up to 20 in the last two weeks so I have had to do a weekly water change. My ammonia is 0, nitrites 0, and my ph is 8.2. Please help if you can. <Hope I have...just make sure there isn't any residual copper still dissolved in your aquarium, as it will stress all inhabitants> Thanks so much, Michelle <Anytime - M. Maddox>

Which Is Worse, the Sickness or the Cure? (7/25/04)
Hi <Hello. Steve Allen tonight.>
 I've just had my first traumatic fish Loss. <So sorry to hear. I know exactly how you feel.> I bought a pair of exquisite wrasses and put them in my 20 gal QT tank with a couple small PC's of live rock and some Halimeda and other macros attached to it. I had the QT set up for around 4 weeks before the fish arrived. It has a small penguin BioWheel/media filter and a SeaClone hang on skimmer. <A rather fancy set-up. A bare tank with PVC fittings to hide in, a heater, and a sponge or power filter is usually quite sufficient.> Everything was good for 2 weeks until Thursday, when I noticed a bunch of small white spots all over him. he was behaving perfectly normal , no scratching or twitching. <Still, it certainly sounds like Ich.> Knowing what it probably was I bought a Copper test (fast test ) and a bottle of SeaCure. Both by Aquarium systems. I removed both fish and performed an 8 minute freshwater dip (with Meth blue) . I tested the tank to make sure copper was at 0, it was and added the dosage. Both fish were totally traumatized but were out and about Friday PM and both ate.
 To get back to the Fastest, it is a very very difficult to use kit. <All kits are if you ask me. I have a hard time distinguishing one subtle shade's color difference.> First off, there are 2 line on the test vial. And no where on the instructions does it say which one to use. I later called A-systems and was told it was the top one. I was also told to remove the carbon from the tank, it doesn't say that in the directions either. The test colors are all a shade of brown, and according to my test I finally got the dosage to where it was supposed to be. the odd thing was I had to add nearly twice the dosage on the bottle (over 2 days) to get it to the min 15ppm. I woke this morning and saw no fish visible but that wasn't uncommon with these fish because they like to hide in the pvc pipe I gave them for security. I left for work and at 9 my wife calls me and says we have 2 dead wrasses. <:(> I came home and tested the water, the copper was OK, according to the test. I tested the ammonia and it was too high, .5 ppm. <Might have already started to rise from the dead fish between the time of their deaths and the removal of the corpses from the tank.>
 Could the ammonia have done them both in so quickly??. <I've seen plenty of fish survive this level, but the combination of that with other stressors could perhaps have done it. OTOH, we cannot know if there was any ammonia in the tank before they died, as noted above. Hard to say for sure why they died.> What copper medication and test kit do you recommend?? <CopperSafe is a reputable product and Salifert tests are usually reliable. You need to be sure to match the test kit to the type of copper you are using. Info on this is available in the Copper articles/FAQs. Also, be sure to remove all rock or sand when treating and bear in mind that the copper will usually kill your good bacteria too.>
Is there anything I could have done differently?? I was thinking I could have done the dip and a nice water change and observed, but the male had a lot of spots. <Copper can be a touchy medication to uses. Some folks prefer formalin, but another option is the FW dip followed by hyposalinity treatment at elevated temps. Check Steven Pro's excellent ich series at www.reefkeeping.com that started in October (I believe) of 2003.> I'm bummed, I had been looking forward to those gorgeous fish being in my reef tank for a long time. <Understood. Take solace in the fact that you didn't ruin your beautiful reef by skipping QT and introducing ich and then, even worse, putting medicine in the reef. Read the ich article and try again. Next time you have to treat, I am confident you will have a better outcome.>

A Penny for thought
Hi,
Just a quick question. a few weeks ago I found a penny in the bottom of my 55g. right now there is about 90lbs live rock, a damsel , 71 Astrea snails and 4 peppermint shrimp. Tank has been set up four about 4 months with no
deaths. should I be worried about copper leaching out of penny? and if it did would have it already killed anything in the tank if it already did leach ? thanks so much, Chris
<Well, it's just one penny... and the modern ones aren't just copper... and you haven't lost anything as you state. I think you're fine here. What little Cu+2 may have been released is gone. Bob Fenner>

Re: A Penny for thought
Thanks so much. Didn't think it would be a problem, but I just wanted to ask you guys. Finally a source to get accurate info.
<Glad to be here, of service. Bob Fenner>

- Is This Bad? -
I was propagating some Ricordea last weekend and the piece of live rock I wanted to use had a patch of schmutz on it (algae, really) so I went to the toolbox and found two brand new wire brushes (the kind that look like toothbrushes). One was steel and one was brass. Thinking it might not be good to use the steel one because of rust, I grabbed the brass one. After all, screws and such on ships are brass! I brushed a patch of rock clean with the brass and mounted my specimen on it. On my way to work this morning, I realized that brass is a copper alloy and I may have rendered that tank useless. I did my surgery and propagating in a 10 gallon tank I use to isolate newcomers. I remember reading that that one of the rules of reef keeping is "thou shalt not use a tank that has EVER had copper in it". Tell me that the brass brush didn't ruin my tank. <Well... you could probably say better than me. Has there been any noticeable effect? Are any of your invertebrates suffering? If not, then you are probably in the clear. You could run some activated carbon for a little while and this will hopefully remove any free copper that might be roaming about.> Also, is it safe to put the things from that tank into my show tank? <I think so... really, brass isn't going to separate into its various elements while scrubbing a rock. The chances of you having contaminated the tank are very small. Wouldn't be too concerned... again, you can run carbon as a safeguard.>
Thanks for your help. Troy
<Cheers, J -- >

New Tank - Big Oops
Bob,
Here is a big mistake from a newbie to the saltwater trade. I have a 125 gal tank with 3-4" crushed coral substrate, 130 lbs live rock, homemade sump. I cycled the rock and it took about 6 weeks. My levels dropped to 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and 5 nitrates. So I added the cleanup crew from FFExpress. Within 24 hours all were dead.
<toxic shock>
Started reading and asking questions as to why?? My big mistake was to save a few bucks (stupid seeing I invested so much) and use two copper shutoff valves between my overflow boxes and sump.
<Arghhhh!!!>
These have been installed since tank setup and live rock cycle. Approx 2 months total time. Needless to say those are not inline anymore. So, what do I do next?
<lots of Polyfilters (Poly Bio Marine) for several months to absorb residual free copper... after a 100% water change of course>
I want to have inverts and corals sometime. I have noticed your posts about using carbon and poly filters. What are your suggestions and time frames?
<after the big water change... I'm thinking double Polyfilters changes by three weeks time at least twice (6-8 weeks of Polyfilters). Then do a copper test and continue to do so weekly beginning with hardy inverts and polyps to test the water. Resist colonial anemones and snails at first (squishy inverts are more likely to draw/OD copper absorbed in substrate...perhaps more sensitive as a rule. Shrimps, crabs, for macro organisms... Leather corals on their own new rock for corals would be good,>
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you for the information contained in your web site. Sincerely, Bob Haberkorn.
<do read, share and pass along your wisdom and a good word about the site, please. Kindly, Anthony>

Flame Angel will not eat while being treated... coppered 3/1/08
Hi guys,
I bought a flame angel fish and placed him in my 10 gallon quarantine tank. He was doing well and eating every type of frozen meaty foods that I fed him in addition to eating algae from a clip that I put in the tank daily. He was eating voraciously for over a week and now unfortunately he has come down with a case of Ich.
I am treating the tank with Copper but now he has stopped eating. He hasn't eaten for 3 days and he seems to be hanging in with the copper treatment but I'm afraid he'll die from starvation while I am trying to cure the Ich.
Do you have any advice for how I can get him to eat? I have tried putting some food in the tank but he just lets it float by and does not go after it like he did before.
I'd hate to lose this fish! Any advice you could offer would be much appreciated!
Thanks,
Lynne
<The copper... is mal-affecting this fish... causes it to go off-feed... I would NOT pre-emptorily copper Centropyge, Angels period... See WWM re Copper use, poisoning... I would summarily dip/bath and move this Flame to the main/display tank. Bob Fenner>

Ineffective Copper Treatment. 2/27/08
I am finding Marine Ich to be a real nuisance. I have pulled all of my fish from the main tank for the second time in less than a year because of Marine Ich. The first time all fish spent two months in QT (while the main tank remained fallow) and were treated with copper for the fist two weeks. When the fish were returned to the main tank after two months the signs and symptoms of Marine Ich returned within a few months and I eventually lost the Niger Trigger.
<No fun for sure>
This is was my motivating factor for pulling out all of the rock and corals again so I could get the fish into QT again. This is the second two week course of copper treatment for these fish in a years time. I used Cupramine again and kept the levels between 0.25-0.50 (Salifert Test kit) as directed by Mr. Fenner last year. I did test each day and sometimes twice without problems or fluctuations in the copper levels. All signs and symptoms of Marine Ich disappeared during the treatment. The fish are now at five weeks in QT tank and two weeks post treatment. After the treatment was completed I did two fifty percent water changes and added charcoal. Copper levels are undetectable and the water parameters are Ammonia 0, Nitrites 0, ph 8.3, Alk 3.00, water temp 82, and Specific Gravity 1.025.
Now for the problems. The Foxface is again air gulping at the surface and the Blue Hippo Tang had a white spot on it yesterday. All of the respiratory rates on the fish are increasing as well. Copper can cause increased respiratory rates but I do not believe this is the problem since the fish's behavior changes are 2 weeks post treatment. I can only demise the Ich has returned.
<Ho buoy>
I am now at a loss for an appropriate treatment method without increasing the health risks to the fish. Is Copper still an option or should I consider other options (Hyposalinity) for both the fish and the QT tank? I have reviewed the Conscientious Marine Aquarist and the treatments listed there primarily refer to dips (if my understanding is correct) except for Malachite Green, Methylene Blue, and Copper Sulfate. Other websites lean towards hyposalinity by lowering the salinity to 1.012 over 72 hours with careful monitoring of Ph, and water temp.

I know there are many treatment options out there but I am at a loss for what would be the safest and most effective treatment for the fish at this time. Any advise you have in this matter would be greatly appreciated and I look forward to hearing from you at your earliest convenience.
Sincerely,
Ward Budde
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/quinmedfaqs.htm
Bob Fenner>

Copper removal, snails dying and nitrates 02/21/2008
Hello my name is matt,
<<Hello Matt, Andrew here today>>
and I was wondering if you might could help me with my situation?
<>
I have a 90 gallon tank with overflow box, with a 165 lbs of live rock, six 25 pound bags of sand,20 gallon sump 2 power heads rated at 600 each the pump in the sump is rated at 1200 and a 125 gallon Corallife skimmer. As far as tank mates I have 20 crabs had 12 snails, one powder brown tang, sail fin tang,2 yellow tangs,2 skunk shrimp and a piece of coral. My snails just died and I don't know from what, I have an idea but im not sure. See it started out when I bought another powder brown to put in the tank and the original one tore him up so I took him out and took him back to the petstore because they are the ones that told me it would be ok to put him in there, shortly after that the powder brown broke out with ick and the other fish got it two so I stared treating with ParaGuard for about 5 days and that helped a little but not much, so I asked the guy at the petstore what to do and he gave me CopperSafe and told me to treat low dosage so it wouldn't hurt the inverts about a week later the snails started dying he gave me another 12 after I did two water changes and they died also. >Not... "safe"... toxic. RMF<
<<ParaGuard should not be used in a reef aquarium as it contains malachite green, and this is one thing that should not be added to a reef, fair to use in a hospital or quarantine tank. More reading here regarding Malachite Green http://www.wetwebmedia.com/malachitegreen.htm. Coppersafe, is a better product to use. On the brown tangs, firstly, I would suggest a that you need a larger home, at least 125gal. Stress id the likely cause of the Ich and I can understand the two tangs fighting when the second one was introduced, would not attempt this again. On the issue of inverts, this could be attributed to the ParaGuard. My suggestion would be to run carbon and PolyFilter to clean the water>>
My nitrates are at 20 and I cant seem to get them down. Do you think it was the copper that killed the snails or the nitrates? I've been treating with ParaGuard for two weeks now? how can I get rid of the ich and do I need to remove the bio balls this tank has been setup for about 2 months.
>... the copper. RMF<
<<Ich is best treated in quarantine tanks, and use hypo salinity, allow the display tank to go fallow through the period the fish are in quarantine as this will kill off any parasites that are being hosted in the tank itself. On the bio-balls, you could slowly remove them, say a cup full every 2 - 3 weeks, and replace this with live rock rubble. Do you clean the bio-balls at all? If not, this could attribute to your elevated nitrate levels>>
Oh my levels are all correct except for my nitrates my salinity is .028 <> in the red my temp is 81-82 <>. If you could help me out I would greatly appreciate it.
<<Thanks for your questions, hope the above helps. A Nixon>>

Does macroalgae absorb/release copper 12/9/07
Hi Crew,
<Tom>
I have a treatment tank that had been exposed to copper during a crypt treatment. After the treatment cycle I put some Chaeto in this tank and the Chaeto probably got exposed to residual copper.
<Mmm, to some...>
Do you know if the Chaeto could have absorbed the copper, like rock or decorations can, making it useable in a reef tank?
<I doubt it. Strictly speaking, there is quite likely some copper absorption and release that will occur here. The questions are how much, and how quickly? I think very little on both counts. Some copper is actually essential... needed... even included purposely in some formulated foods>
I'm curious is if can use this Chaeto to re-establish a refugium tied to a reef tank, or if there's a risk of copper contamination.
<Not a problem>
Thanks,
Tom
<I would not be concerned here. Though free cupric ion and other chelated varieties can be toxic, these materials are used as algicides (in addition to epizootic treatments, preventatives)... And IF there was "enough" copper to be of consequence the Chaetomorpha would have been mal-affected, perhaps killed outright. Not to worry. Bob Fenner>

Copper and moto tang 10/11/07
Dear Bob,
I am very excited to received your book "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" which I ordered through the net recently. I have started to read it ever since it has reached my hands.
<Ahh! Have just finished the fish sections rewrite for a new edition>
My hospital quarantine tanks have been loaded with fish on the 7th Oct. eve. SG-1.017 temp 26 deg Cel. Matured sponge filter, 2" P.V.C pipe hardware, Good aeration. Water used bore well, initial pH of 7.4. Now pH is 8.2, Red sea salt.
Bob, I have put Koran angel, Wimple, Black backed but, Blue damsel, Picasso trigger, Moto Tang, Pak but, in these separate tanks after freshwater dip (15 min with timer) with Methylene blue. The bags in which they arrived had a pH of 6.3 similar pH was prepared using phosphoric acid (ortho)
<Okay... but I'd pH adjust first... with seawater that is acidified... THEN freshwater dip... with elevated pH FW>
Expect the Moto tang (dead today morning), one wimple and pak but are hiding and not eating.
<Are these tanks bare? I would place some chemically inert material in for hiding... perhaps plastic pipe>
Other fishes are fine and eating. I usually start feeding them dried brine shrimp cubes, which they accept initially very well later tetra marine flakes and granules.
After 24 hrs, the Moto tang was covered with white spots. I gave him another freshwater dip pH 8.3 as that of the tank in which he was. Then he was shifted to tank with copper. As mentioned earlier I had prepared my own Copper solution. (40 gm.s of Copper Sulphate ( Blue crystals used in swimming pools here) to 10 liters of Distilled water. I intend to use 30 ml for 200 liters to get .015 ppm reading of copper with 1 tsp of citric acid.)
<Okay>
One day previous to the arrival of the fish I had prepared this tank with copper. It is a 75 liter tank, I added copper and tested the again I kept on adding Cu till I could read 0.025ppm on the API test kit. On colour chart the first reading is 0.25ppm then 0.50ppm. As per my solution I should have added only 15ml but I took more than 7 tests finally ended up adding 50ml till I could read little less then 0.025.
1.Is the solution dilute,
2. Is the test kit not correct.
<The solution and kit are likely fine, accurate... the copper itself is being precipitated by the naturally high pH... combining with alkaline materials... falling out of solution, precipitated>
The Moto tank was introduced into it this tank on the 8th morning, On the 9th he was dull and sticking low to the tank but balancing. I immediately referred to page 308 of your book and it says that copper is toxic to microfauna is the digestive system. I immediately made 20 liters water change of Sg 1.017 without copper. Next morning that is today It is dead and had a white covering on the dorsal fin and pelvic fin full length. Kindly help as I am now bit confused on using my copper mix on any fish .
<Tangs are hard to treat with non-chelated copper solutions, and should not be continuously exposed... A strict two week regimen is called for. No more. Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/crypttangs.htm
and as much of the linked files above as you find you need to understand.>
One last question is can I get rid of the parasites just by isolation and freshwater dips without using copper.
Regards,
Inderjeet Singh Bansal
<Not likely... Better to rely on some formalin added to the freshwater, pH adjusted dip enroute to ensure their eradication. Do you understand this? Bob Fenner>

Possible Copper Poisoning? – 10/11/07
Dear Crew,
<<Hello Sebastian>>
As always, thank you very much for the valuable service that you provide, and most of all thanks for tolerating incompetent people like myself.
<<Ah, well...you’re visits here should be turning that around!>>
Hey Eric!
<<Hello mate!>>
I am almost afraid it's you reading this email, as you probably think I am not qualified to own a fish tank at this point.
<<Not at all... Not as long as you keep observing and learning>>
I have made another stupid mistake and my favorite invert has passed away.
<<Hmm, how do we stop these “mistakes?” I know!...reading/research “beforehand”...>>
I have an SPS tank as you know, you probably also remember I am treating all my fish in a separate hospital tank going on 2 1/2 weeks now with Copper-Safe.
<>
Well, the other day I was thawing out some frozen Mysis shrimp so I scooped some water from the hospital tank and threw a cube in there for a while. After feeding the fishes, there was some of that food left over, thawed out with hospital tank water, which has Copper-Safe in it.
<>
Well, that was about 2 days ago and this morning for no apparent reason I watched as my beloved coral banded shrimp expired. There have been no changes, no fish in the tank, nothing else that I could attribute to his death, except that he ate some of that left over "poisoned" shrimp. Could this be it?
<<Is a possibility I suppose...but it is also possibly just a coincidence and the shrimp has expired from natural causes (has a relatively short life-span of a few years). Either way...this is a good opportunity for me to express the need to keep quarantine/hospital tanks separated from the display tanks in very way...to include not sharing equipment (nets, filters, etc.) without sanitizing between uses (for obvious reasons...keeping a sponge filter in your display’s sump for a quick bio-startup to a hospital tank wouldn’t fall under the same ruling...but it should be sanitized after use/before returning to the display)>>
I see no changes in any of my corals, all looks good still, and I am trying very hard to believe that the amount of copper that entered my system through that food is minimal, since I use 2 1/2 teaspoons in 10 gallons of water as directed. Then it was probably about 5 tablespoons of "contaminated water that I threw in the tank. Is it possible that the shrimp died because the soaked Mysis adsorbed the water in which it was thawed out that had the copper in it?
<<Again, is a possibility...but I think it unlikely>>
All the snails look fine, and all corals. I am so sorry for making this mistake, I know it sounds silly from a grown man, but I kind of grew attached to that shrimp, if you ever have a coral banded, they have a personality, always walking around like they own the whole tank and eating parasites from the tang before he was removed to be treated.
I feel awful.
<<Is understandable...and not “silly” at all. We “all” make mistakes...even after decades in the hobby...and even some where we knew better>>
Please let me know what you think about this situation and what you think I should do.
<<You can place some Poly-Filter in your filter flow-path for the peace-of-mind...but I think all will be fine regardless>>
In addition, how much longer should I treat with Copper Safe?
<<21 days en toto>>
I have been making water changes every other day, siphoning the bare bottom, replacing half the volume in the hospital tank. I have treated for a total of 16 days now.
<<Five days to go then>>
Thanks again for all your help,
Sebastian
<<Always welcome. Eric Russell>>

Changing Diets, Centropyge, reading... 10/1/07
Hi again,
<Greg>
Well I have a Lemonpeel angel fish in quarantine that came down with a severe cases of Cryptocaryon.? Fortunately, I caught it early and have been able to bring it under control with Cupramine (no more visible spots, breathing returned to normal). Problem is the fish has changed it feeding preferences.
<Oh yes>
Before the ich and Cupramine, mysid?shrimp and?flake was easily accepted.? Now, only frozen brine is accepted.? The fish does go after the brine eagerly, but will only eat one or two Mysid and/or flakes, then stops until brine is introduced.? How can I train this fish back into a decent food?? Could Cupramine be affecting dietary habits?
Thanks,
Greg
<Yes. Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dwfangfdgfaqs.htm
BobF>

Re: Copper Range in mg/l, Cu poisoning now... – 08/31/07
Dear Mr. Fenner
<Yo!>
As I told you earlier I bought a Clown Triggerfish exactly one week ago and it’s in my 20G QT. The first few days he was really active and ate very well. As I spotted some tiny white spots ONLY on the fins I added Chelated Copper the day after I put him in the QT.
<The spots may not be treatable thus... may not even be parasitic...>
Now after one week with frequent water changes (I change about 6 liters per change) the ammonia is at 0.15 – 0.2, nitrates is at almost 0 & Salinity is at 0.017. And the copper level is somewhere in between 0.15 – 0.30 according to my ZOOLEK Copper test kit. But the problem is that he is not active or swims as much as he used to be in the first few days and doesn’t eat that much although he eats (prawn meat) slowly. He often hides near the dead coral I have placed in the QT. Whenever I go near the tank he runs to a upper corner and almost keeps is face above water. He freaks out when I go near the tank.
<All symptoms of copper poisoning...>
So obviously there is something wrong. I wanted to give him another freshwater dip and put him in my established 80G main tank but I am sacred
<scared maybe>
to face another white spot
<... do you have access to a cheap microscope, some familiarity with same?>
problem as my main tank is running smoothly.
There are few white spots on his fins although I am not completely sure whether it’s Ich. I pointed a torchlight on his body and looked really close but there are absolutely no white spots on his body and his colors are very vibrant. What am I supposed to do now? I don’t wanna lose this wonderful fish. Let me know whether you need any other information to diagnose what’s going on. Please give me some advice.
Thanks in advance for your advice,
Best regards,
Rachel
<... I would not have exposed this fish to copper given what you have presented... I would read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisindex.htm
and learn to/use the indices, search tool... BobF>

Re: Copper Range in mg/l – 08/31/07
Dear Mr. Fenner
Thanks for the advice. I do have a friend who owns a Microscope. What am I supposed to do with it. Can I test for Ich through a microscope?
<The holociliate of about the right size... two nuclei...>
And if the Trigger is copper poisoned should I change the entire water in the QT and replace it with non-copper treated water?

or as it been almost 9 days without any signs white spots on his body should i directly put him to the main after a freshwater dip?
<Yes, I would>
I really really appreciate your view.
Thanks,
Best regards,
Rachel
<You have read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/curemovalfaqs.htm
RMF>

Hyposalinity together with copper sulphate treatment 8/22/07
Dear Sir,
Your site is the best I have come across on the net. I have learned lots from your wonderful Site.
I have a question. Can one treat the marine fish while in hyposalinity with copper sulphate?
<Can>
What is the effects of copper in such a salinity.
<More toxic...>
Regards,
Inderjeet Singh
<Bob Fenner>

Re: Hyposalinity together with copper sulphate treatment 8/26/07
Dear Sir,
Thank you for the prompt reply, You have said copper can be used so should I keep a level of 0.15 mg/l as suggested or reduce it.

Your second answer is not clearly understood by me. It will be toxic to what, the fish or the parasites.?
Regards,
Inderjeet Singh.
<The host fishes... the lowering of spg makes copper exposure more dangerous. BobF>

Re: Hyposalinity together with copper sulphate treatment 8/28/07
Dear Bob,
Thanks again, This is going to be a bit long mail so please do excuse me I am Architect turned Aquarist, this hobby has changed my profession I am a serious LFS hobbyist doing my job for past 5 years in freshwater.
<Neat! I too was self-directed to a life of enjoyment, study and sharing in our interest>
Here in India Marine is not much popular. Recently I visited Singapore for the Aquarama Exhibition .
<Ahh! Have gone to most of these biannual industry get-togethers>
I was inspired with Marine setups and the Underwater World.
<The UK co. I take it>
I set up my tanks for marine and got two consignments of fish sadly all the fish died within two weeks because of Velvet. Then I started to read and browse the net and I came to WWM. This is my favourite site. I spend most of my spare time reading your articles. I now give my fish the fresh water dips and am trying to quarantine them.
<Ah, good>
Now I have been successful to keep the fish alive. Your site is a big Ocean of knowledge.
<Thank you my friend>
The reasons of my earlier question is that I am confused and not sure what method I should use?
1. Only Hyposalinity ?
2. Only Copper treatment Or
3. Both 1 and 2 ?
<Depends a good deal on the species, specimens in question... For many that are sensitive or in bad initial health, neither may be appropriate... For incoming fishes, pH adjusted freshwater dips with a bit of formalin (as detailed on WWM) is my favorite prophylactic approach...>
Now, the reason I am asking you the above question is that I have set up 40 tanks of 15 gallons in circulation to a common sump. All tanks are individually connected with of 3/4" pvc pipes for inlet and outlet.
In the Sump the water is filtering through Ceramic rings, filter pads of different grade, bio balls. The water is then pumped back. I plan to quarantine marine fish in these tanks.
<Mmm, much we should state here... each of these tanks flows back independently I hope... and you have VERY good mechanical (one micron or less) AND physical (e.g. UV) sterilization to exclude the sharing of parasites...>
I read on the net that Protein Skimmer must not be used as the organic waste will remove the copper.?
<Yes... w/ or w/o the waste... and the waste alone>
I am using API test kits NH3, NO2, NO3, pH and Cu.
Do I need to monitor anything else? What method should I use from the above?
<Dips, baths... and keep good records of what species from what suppliers have problems... Arrange your ordering to reflect...>
Salt used is Red Sea as this is the only salt commonly available in India.
<As your business grows... do consider becoming a distributor for other brands... and product lines... Marine keeping will explode some day (and I think soon) in India>
I have prepared my own Copper Sulphate solution by mixing 40 gm.s of Copper Sulphate ( Blue crystals used in swimming pools here) to 10 liters of Distilled water. I intend to use 30 ml for 200 liters to get .015 ppm reading of copper.

I want your advice for any other precautions that I should take while Quarantine. My tanks are recycling now. And soon I shall add the fish when the NH3 and NO2 readings are ZERO.
Thanks once again.
Regards,
Inder.

Cupramine and Nitrites - 7/4/07
Quick question/observation...
Currently quarantining 3 fish: Tuskfish, 2 x Bannerfish in a 20gallon glass bottom tank with a Fluval 104 Filtre. The foam pads were left in but the ceramic stones were removed as they seemed to absorb the Seachem Cupramine product that I was using to treat my fish.
<Not them, but the "biofilm" on them...>
I was conducting 30% water changes every second day. I have been using ONLY water from my Reef Tank which maintains pristine water conditions (no signs of ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, pH 8.2).
<Good that you have this available>
I have been using Cupramine as directed thus maintaining the copper level at .5PPM in my tank. The fish seem to be doing fine. I have done 2 different water tests on my reef tank to ensure my quarantine tank is getting optimal water conditions but have only been doing Ammonia, pH, and Copper testing on my quarantine tank. pH is fine, no traces of Ammonia, and the appropriate Copper level of .5PPM. Last night (after two weeks) decided to do a thorough water test on the quarantine as I am going away this upcoming weekend. Every thing checks out except Nitrites are off the charts. I retested my Reef Tank and everything checked out... so I did a water change in my quarantine tank... lowering the water to a level to just the point that my fish could still swim (i.e. about 80%) and then syphoned reef tank water back into the quarantine tank to fill it back up. Note: Salinity and temperature are identical matches. I then topped off the appropriate Cupramine dose to get me back up to approximately .5PPM of copper. 2hrs later, I did another test... nitrites are still off the charts.
<Yes... the "secondary" microbes that convert the nitrite to nitrate are being inhibited by copper exposure and a lack of substrate>
Seachem Cupramine's FAQ's say to basically ignore Ammonia readings that are unreal... something to do with the majority of Ammonia test kits pick up something in the Cupramine. Basically SeaChem's stance, is to do frequent water changes and not worry about unreal ammonia readings. However, my ammonia readings are in check... no signs of ammonia.
Are you familiar with this issue? If I did an 80% water change, I'd expect to see no signs of Nitrite or at least a severely diluted reading. Are you thinking the test kit is reacting with the Cupramine product to give me a false reading?
<Mmm, no, I don't think so. But I encourage you to contact SeaChem's technical customer support... They're excellent... and ask directly if this test kit can/does yield such false positives...>
As I mentioned before, fish in quarantine are acting normal and feeding eagerly. Not only have I been doing the water changes as per above... but after every feeding I am syphoning out any leftovers so that no visible solids remain in the tank. I even opened up the Fluval canister filtre to see if there was solid food waste caught in the foam cartridges... nothing.
Do you figure I am ok? Tried to get hold of Seachem today... but 4th of July and no one's picking up the phones...
David Brynlund


Re: Cupramine and Nitrites - 7/4/07
Thanks for the super urgent response Bob... You're the greatest!
<Welcome>
You said that you think I am ok here. Do you mean, relax and keep vacuuming up solid waste and my 30% waterchanges every two days? Or should I be actively trying to get those nitrites down by mass water changes daily?
<The former>
So, the Cupramine inhibits the nitrites from breaking down into less harmful nitrates?
<Indirectly in a few ways, yes>
Aren't the nitrites toxic though?
<Are... or more to the point, pertinence here, can be under various other co-factored incidences>
If I recall correctly the reading is about 4PPM maybe a little higher. I'm still confused as to how an 80% water change would NOT dilute my readings?
<Mmmm... is a bit artifactual... I do wish we were face to face... and I knew your chemistry and physics backgd. a bit... Is/are diluted, but the sensitivity of the kits is so poor, the actual subjectivity of reading such... that the difference here is hard to make out>
Yes, I'll give Seachem a shout tomorrow...
David Brynlund
<Do please send along your synopsis of what is said. Cheers, BobF>

Re: Cupramine and Nitrites 7/5/07
Hi Bob, spoke to Seachem today...
<Ahh!>
Would be a pleasure to meet face to face sometime... Chemistry and physics background? Hmm, well I did fairly well in Chem/Phys through high school, but I'm an educated Finance guy.
<A good combo. I taught H.S. level in these subjects for a few years... and have an ongoing interest of course...>
Tech Support at SeaChem said that Ammonia is the only parameter that should yield a false positive.
<Yes, as I, and I believe you thought as well>
With a bare bottom tank and only foam cartridges for filtration, she mentioned that likely any sort of biological bacteria was held in the ceramic stones and I removed them.
<Good>
Therefore, I didn't have the biological bacteria present to continue the process as you mentioned... Converting Nitrite to Nitrate. She recommended using a product called Seachem MATRIX as non-copper absorbing bacteria holding stones and then using their SeaChem Stability additive to introduce or reintroduce the beneficial bacteria to continue the Nitrite - Nitrate cycle. She mentioned I should be setting up these products about 3 days prior to introducing new fish for quarantine or fish for medicating (if possible)... And then removing the product afterwards.
<Mmm, sounds reasonable>
Now I know for next time.
My 3 fish are still doing well in quarantine and have finished their Cupramine treatment... The Tuskfish has also shed his Lyco##### (I forget the name of the cotton like fungus I sent you pics of and my employer has blocked all hobby sites on our network server... DOH!).
<Yikes... Lymphocystis>
All seems well. My main display 200gallon system has remained fallow less one snowflake moray eel now for 2 weeks. Shall I give it another week? Two weeks?
<This latter...>
Before introducing them back into main display?

I guess I am a little bit eager now to get them back in there given the nitrite levels. By the time I locate or order SeaChem's recommended product it could be 10 days... As my retailers here don't carry either of those products.
<... Man! What will it take to urge the trade to be/come just a bit more sophisticated! Well, we're doing our part I hope/trust>
Thanks again!
David Brynlund
<And you. Bob Fenner>

Response to Ich Question Posted 7/4/07 7/5/07
I was reading FAQs today and noticed the question/guidance entitled "Cupramine and Nitrites - 7/4/07". I wanted to share my experiences because I experienced something similar, with tragic results.

I too treated my HT with copper (ionic copper sulfate, not Cupramine) and my nitrites shot up in spite of constant water changes, vacuuming, etc. I too have a SeaChem copper test kit and checked copper twice daily to ensure that I was maintaining proper copper level. My fish were likewise feeding and acting well. And then they died. They had no visible ich infestation, so my only guess was that they died from prolonged exposure to nitrites coupled with exposure to the copper.
<Might be... at least a factor>
I think SeaChem test kit tells you to follow a special protocol if you're using chelated copper. Not sure whether Cupramine falls into that category.
<Does>
My point is, my experience suggests not to ignore high nitrite levels and to do frequent water changes. This makes life hard when using chelated products, which is why the authors of many articles I have read prefer the use of ionic copper sulfate.
Just my two cents.
Andy
<Mmm, benefits (chelates are "longer lasting") to both... Bob Fenner.

Nitrite Question, Copper murdered my nitrifying bacteria? (And QT) 6/7/07
Hello Crew.
<'Allo!>
I have a question about the effect of copper on nitrifying bacteria.
<Kills 'em.>
I have a 30 gallon marine QT/hospital tank that I cycled with two mollies.
<Poor mollies...>
I have since had to introduce my four fish---a tiny gold stripe maroon, a tiny blue hippo, a lawnmower blenny and a 3.5" yellow tang--into the hospital tank to allow my display tank to go fallow because my blue hippo got Ich (I know, I know . . .).
<Hope this is a big system we're talking about, 125g+ ???>
Of course, my ammonia and nitrites shot up - ammonia went from 0 to 2 ppm and nitrites went from 0 to 2.5 ppm. I'm treating the tank with copper (keeping it between .15 and .30 ppm, but boy are those tests hard to read!).
<Seachem?>
They've been in the tank 5 days.
The blue tang and maroon clown are happy as clams--you'd think they have known each other since birth. They seem totally unaffected by either the copper or ammonia/nitrite levels.
<I'm sure they are affected, whether or not it's apparent.>
The lawnmower blenny, who was perfectly healthy when I removed him from the display on Saturday, is now resting peacefully in pet heaven with my German shorthaired pointer.
The yellow tang is hanging in there--he hasn't eaten since entry into the tank and periodically leans over to one side, but he is responsive when I approach the tank, stick my hand in, etc., and he's alive every morning when the lights come on. His breathing is not labored, but I can tell he's not feeling great.
I have been doing 20% water changes daily and re-dosing to maintain proper copper levels.
<Hmm... maybe you should brush up on QT setups? http://www.wetwebmedia.com/QuarMarFishes.htm You need to be doing water changes that will keep the toxic byproducts of their respiration and feeding to a minimum. Usually 20% is not enough with four animals in a 30-gallon. >
Yesterday, I added Bio-Spira, which dropped my ammonia down to 0 overnight but my nitrites were still about 1.5-2.0 ppm this morning.
<Hmm, the addition of Bio-Spira is mostly moot at this point. As you are seeing, the copper has deleterious effects on the bacteria, and they won't properly establish in the presence of medication. This is a good reason to use the water from your main tank to dilute the toxins in the QT whenever testing indicates a need. Think of it as aggressive water-changes for your main system...>
My questions: What effect will the copper have on my nitrifying bacteria?
<See above.>
Do you recommend that I do multiple doses of Bio-Spira while I'm treating with copper?
<No doses would be fine.>
Do you recommend anything different with respect to the yellow tang to up his chances of survival?
<Just refine your approach to new species introduction in the future. I think you have taken a concerned and proactive approach to the current situation.>
My LFS will cure ich without chemicals (using an incredibly ingenious, patent-pending (no kidding) top secret method--I'd have to kill you if I told you how it works) for $5 per day.
<Per fish? What a racket! I should've thought of that one!>
I could send him there until I ran the copper treatment on the other two fish and then put him back in the QT, but it would certainly be cheaper to just buy another yellow tang (but what kind of father would I be??).
<Yes, we usually shy from relating importance of our livestock to their cash value...>
Thanks for your guidance.
<You are most welcome, but I bet you will do fine as you are. Do some google searching here on WWM and read as much as you can. In no time, you may be the one answering the Q's. >
Andy
<-GrahamT>

Re: Copper murdered my nitrifying bacteria? (And QT) 6/7/07 – 6/8/07
Follow up for Graham:
<Howdy, Andrew.>
My tank is 110 gallons.
<Good.>
Your inquiry about Seachem copper test - - - yes, why do you ask? Is
that a bad test kit brand?
<Well, it a hard test to read results from. The slider, right? [Shudders]>
All of my test kits are Seachem, except my calcium test. I sure wish there was an easy to read test kit--do you have any recommendations?
< http://www.wetwebmedia.com/coppertestfaqs.htm >
I know that everyone speaks highly of Salifert, but I have to give up an arm to buy one of those kits.
<Hmm... get what you pay for, I'm afraid. I like the Lamotte kit Rick O. has with the colorimeter (sp?)... makes the testing a snap.>
As for QT, I know, I know--I was an idiot, thought I could beat the odds, will never, ever, ever do it again, will quarantine all new arrivals for at least 2 weeks, etc. Hindsight is always 20-20.
<Been there.>
I was in the hobby 20 years ago and just got back in it. Didn't realize how much it has changed until I read Bob's book and found this website, both of which have really opened my eyes.
<Been there, too. Was out of the hobby for ten years when I fell back in...>
I promise to keep the questions coming . . .
<Oh, goody!!!
-GrahamT>
Andy

Bringing a Ht back on-line after killing off nitrifying bacteria with copper – 06/19/07
Dear Bob or other venerable member of the Crew,
<Howzit?>
I had a thought . . . . which (surprise) prompted a question . . .
relating to my long-standing Ich saga with which Bob has been helping me out. I placed my four fish in a 30 gallon HT to battle Ich, dosed with copper and monitored religiously for 13 days, with water changes, before everyone started dying due, I can only assume, to elevated nitrite levels (1.5 -2.0 ppm) caused by the copper hatin' on my nitrifying bacteria, in spite of 30% daily water changes (I know . . . wasn't enough). The sole survivor of my uneducated husbandry practices is my gold stripe maroon. The maroon has 3 more weeks in HT/QT before my display tank has completed its fallow period.
Once everyone started dying, I pulled the copper out of the water with a combination of activated charcoal (Kent Reef Carbon) and water changes (plus it's been almost a week since I last dozed)
<Or dosed!>
and now my levels are undetectable, and then added Bio-Spira. My ammonia is 0, and my nitrites are slooooowwwwwlllly coming down and are now higher than 0.5 but lower than 1 ppm. My HT/QT if filtered with a Marineland hang on the back power filter with BioWheel (can the copper permanently pollute this paper BioWheel?)
<Won't>
and penguin powerhead for circulation.
Although the clown seems to be doing fine, I am constantly worried about the nitrite levels in the tank and breathe a sigh of relief every morning when I turn the light on and he's still alive. So, I want to maximize his chances of survival (he wasn't cheap and I he's cool).
Well, the obvious is doing massive water changes every day to dilute the pollution until the tank re-cycles, but I'm going through salt like a Cod Salter. So, my thought . . . One of my LFS sells fully cured reef rubble for $3.99 per lb. If one can quickly cycle a tank with live rock, why not buy 3 lbs of cured reef rubble and drop in the HT?
<Good idea>
It sure would be cheaper than either salt or Bio-Spira and could work instantly?
<A bit slower>
Another reason for this is that it would allow me to keep the QT up and running once I pull my fish out without having to break it down only to bring it back up when I buy a new fish for quarantine. I could buy a few mollies for $2, acclimate them and they could be the permanent inhabitants of the QT. If I ever needed to run copper or some other medicine, I could simply put the reef rubble in a nylon filter bag and drop it in the sump of the display tank for the treatment period.
<Yes>
Three fears came to mind about doing this, though. First, even though I *think* I pulled all the copper out, does enough copper remain to have an adverse effect on the reef rubble?
<Minimally>
A sub-question--because I used Ionized Copper Sulfate that precipitates out, would it be prudent to siphon the glass bottom to remove any copper precipitate that is resting on the bottom and on which my reef rubble will sit?
<Yes, worth doing... with all Crypt-infested systems actually>
Second, assuming that the reef rubble is truly cured and assuming that I get clean pieces that don't have any appreciable life on them (sponges, etc.), am I taking the chance that I may actually exacerbate the problem by jolting my system with ammonia and then nitrite when the rock starts eating and pooping in my tank, or will any spike be quickly dealt with by the rock's bacteria?
<Not much, if, as you state, this material is more or less fully cured>
And finally, and probably most importantly, am I taking the chance that all of my hard work killing my fish with copper to remove Ich will be negated by the reintroduction of Ich or some other parasite that hikes in on the live rock?
Thanks!!!!
Andy
<Mmm, check the system the rock is in... this should be a small concern. Bob Fenner>

Copper toxicity question? 6/6/07
Hello all,
<Howdy>
I am finding it is time for my second question in 3 years. I would have thought the answer to my question would be easy to find in your FAQ's and articles but it is not. So here is my question. What are the signs and symptoms of copper toxicity in a marine fish?
<Usually... rapid, shallow breathing, disorientation, gasping near the surface, often head tilted upward... to lethargy, deep/labored breathing on the bottom... Possibly apparent mucus production on the body, fins... death>
The reason for my question is I have treated my fish in a QT tank for the prescribed amount of time and all visible signs and symptoms of marine ich are gone except increased respiratory rates in about half of the fish.
<Hopefully with daily plus testing of copper...>
The rapid breathing developed near the end of the copper treatment. The main tank remained fallow for two months before the fish were moved back. They have all been back in the main tank now for over two months.
I then ordered three new fish on line and all were in great health on arrival. All three were eating on the same day placed in the QT tank. I did a 2 week treatment with copper after they were in the QT tank for two weeks. None of the fish ever showed any problems until near the end of the copper treatment. Guess what the problem was. It is rapid respiratory rates only. None of the new fish ever had the visible white spots you would expect to see with marine ich. I treated these new fish out of fear of introducing ich to the main display again.
If you should need any other information I would be happy to provide it for you. Thank you for your time and consideration in this matter.
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Re: Copper toxicity question? – 06/08/07
Sorry about the two e-mail question. Your prompt response to the initial question made me think of another I should have asked in the first e-mail about copper toxicity.
<Ah yes... the nature of this media... the rationale for our posting responses for perusal...>
I did perform daily copper checks. I used Cupramine buffered active copper and tested daily with a level of 0.50 mg/l for two weeks.
<Mmm... this is actually too much free cupric ion... I want to mention to browsers to not allow this Cu++ level to go beyond 0.35 ppm or the equivalent units of mg/l>
I used the Salifert test kit and read it as best I could with the color scale provided.

After two weeks I did two fifty percent water changes over 3 days and added carbon. Two of the three fish in QT are in perfect health and no worse for the wear including a flame angel.
<Good>
The problem fish is a false percula (wild caught) specimen. He is exhibiting the signs and symptoms described to me by Mr. Fenner in the initial e-mail.
<Well... am sure you are aware of my admonitions re these wild-caught instead of captive-produced specimens... AND they ARE clowns... do behave "oddly" at times... AND they, along with many other fishes that live in close association with non-vertebrates are more sensitive to the same sorts of challenges>
I was wonder what the recovery time is or if there is a recovery time for copper toxicity.
<Weeks>
I was also wondering what else I could do besides ideal water conditions and no copper to help this fish along on the road to recovery.
<Mmm, perhaps the use of Polyfilter, HUFA/Vitamin prep.s... in the water, food>
I really hate the thought that I may be the source of this fish's health problems.
<Source and cure>
Again, thank you for your time and consideration in this matter.
Sincerely,
Budde
<Welcome my friend. Bob Fenner>

Cataracts and HLLS???? – 04/30/07
I have a 110 Gal tank. 100 lbs. live rock, 100 lbs. live sand. I have one Blue Damsel, one Talbot Damsel, one Blue/Green Chromis, all healthy. I also have one Yellow Eye Kole Tang, and one Radiant Wrasse. They have all been through a six week quarantine (the tang and wrasse at the same time) and after much stress and treatment on the fish, and myself they appeared to be fungus and ich free. My wrasse started acting funny the last week or two of quarantine even though he looked beautiful. I thought it was because the now healthy tang was becoming territorial and picking on the wrasse.
<Maybe>
 So in week five I put a small container of new washed sand in the bottom to give the wrasse somewhere to bury himself for protection. His damage from the tang healed immediately. After the six weeks they seemed great so I put them into my display. Unfortunately under the bright lights of my display tank I can see two problems. The wrasse has cloudiness in his eyes one worse than the other no bulging or anything just like a cloudy film. Is this cataracts and can I treat this.
<Is likely "environmental" in origin... and will go on its own>
He swims around and runs into the rocks and glass when he comes out and I feel so bad for him. He is not eating that I can see. The tang appears to have scars on his face like small divots. Could this be HLLS.
<Mmm, maybe... this is a symptom... not an actual disease... could be resultant simply from stress from the quarantine...>
 Not much algae grew in the quarantine tank and he would not eat any seaweed or algae foods. I tried everything I could buy that was seaweed or algae, dried, frozen, flakes and sheets, even with the garlic entice added. I could only get him to eat omega brine shrimp soaked in Zoe. Now that he is in the main tank he picks at Ocean Nutrition's Formula Two and eats the algae off the rocks and glass. Will this help.
<Yes>
LFS is no help. I don't want this to get worse and everything I read on your site says diet, diet, diet. The wrasse and tang had a tough quarantine I treated them with the following, (not at the same time and with a few days rest between treatments) Quick cure (Formalin and Malachite Green),
<Toxic... the symptoms above are actually very likely from this exposure...>
Fish Mox,
<Amoxicillin for browsers>
Kick Ich, and Rally.
<These are scams>
Could any of these treatments be the cause. I'm sorry for the length but I'm lost and have tried researching your site. Could not get a decent picture of the wrasse
<Keep practicing, reading... the indices, search tool... BobF>

Good pic, eh?

Contaminated equipment... SW... 3/19/07
Hi there,
<Hello, Brandon here.>
I'm been running a 6G nano for about a year now, recently (2 months ago) I started using an old heater/pump in a plastic bucket to heat and aerate RO water for a 2L bi-weekly water change.
<This is a good idea.>
I lost a snail last month and today it seems another has bitten the dust.
<I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but they most likely starved to death. Most people recommend 1 snail per 10 gallons. Keeping two in this tank likely extinguished their food supply, or took it down to negligible levels. Think about it like this, if I gave you one chicken nugget a day, you are still eating right? But eventually you will starve to death. Same thing with the snails. While it is true that they need algae to live, they need a specific amount per day, if they cannot get this they will slowly starve.>
The parameters are: Nitrate 15ppm, Amm 0, Nitrite 0, Ph 8.1, Sal 1.025, Temp 26c, Alk 2.7 and have been stable.
<The Nitrate is a little high. Would be better if it was under 10 ppm. I will assume that your Alk is 2.7 mg/L since you did not say. This translates out to 7.8 dKH. This is low. Ideally you want to shoot for 10-12 dKH, or about 4mg/L. This will give you a more stable pH.>
If the old heater/pump was used in a freshwater tank with a copper based treatment would the copper possibly be getting in the water it is aerating/heating?
<Anything is possible, but if there were copper in the water, the crustaceans that you mention below would likely be doing extremely poorly, or dead. All crustaceans are extremely sensitive to copper.>
The Zoanthids in the tank are also retracted, hermits and shrimps seem fine.
<This is most likely due to the NO3 levels. Try cleaning out your filters once a week, and see if this solves the NO3 problem.>
All the best
<Good luck to you. Brandon.>
Luke

Huma Huma help 1/2/07
hello.
<Hello, Graham here.>
I have had a catastrophe... and want to help save my last fish... I purchased some turbo snails from the local pet store and after introducing them to my 75 gallon tank all my fish started scratching. I added Sea Cure and that was the end of my marine life. I lost 2 clown 2 damsel 1 yellow tang and my emperor angel.. now my trigger is left but he is still scratching away at his side. he has his whole belly red and flakey now. what can I do ? My tank was all zeros for no2, no3 and ammonia and a ph of 8.0-8.2.... I now have him out of the tank and in a quarantine.. he seems to be fine but he is scratching his skin really bad...I an dosing him with sea cure BTW.
<Very hard to diagnose a problem like this when you can't see it. Send a high-resolution .JPG that has been either compressed in an image editor or to a .ZIP file. (Make sure the file is no bigger than 500k, but preferably under 100k) If you cannot send a pic, I recommend you try to work out an identification from our FAQs using the search tool.>
Thanks
Josh
<Welcome.>
<P.S. Bob F. : Please jump in if you see a red flag I'm missing! -Graham> <<Mmm... copper poisoning... removing the copper, hope, time going by... RMF>>

Maracyn and Coppersafe Reaction 1/16/07
Boy did I screw up. <Uh-oh.> I have 125 marine tank. I had a huge case of ich...I added CopperSafe. <Doh!> The next day all my fish had pink fungus all over them. I added Maracyn. <Doh!> Now my tank looks like swamp water. I am losing fish one by one. <Not surprising unfortunately.> I don't know what is killing them now there is no sign of ich or the pink stuff. <The fact that you declared nuclear war on your tank.> I only added Maracyn once. <One time too many sadly.> My water STILL is swamp water green. HELP!!!!
I have already done:
50% water change <Good>
80% water change <Good>
100% water change <Good>
I have put a phosphate filter in the sump and a pantyhose sock with some granular phosphate remover.
I leave my white lights off hoping that the light won't promote growth.
Okay,
I have now replaced ALL of the following:
Live rock all 140#
Live sand all 60#
Water
Now running
Phosphate
Carbon
AmQuel and Cycle for life and water is still turning green slowly
HELP!!!!!
Emily Gansereit
<The double hit of copper and antibiotics has made your tank hostile to most all marine life. The tank is now cycling and living organisms are starting to re-colonize the tank. This starts with the toughest, usually lower forms of life, like free floating algae. Best bet now is to test for copper in the water, if found do more water changes. Get some Poly-Filters and run these along with carbon and the Phosphate remover. Water changes are your friend for the foreseeable future. Also get a QT tank to avoid this situation if the future. With time and proper care the tank should return to normal.>
<Chris>

Copper... measure mostly 1/17/06
I have a copper question. I know it is not good to have in your main tank, which is why I started a new 125 gallon reef ready tank and used my own RO/di unit, but after making the initial 125 gallons of water that read 0 on my TDS meter, and getting that in my tank. My next water readings were in the 50's, then kept getting a little higher.
<... in the presence of? Gravel, rock? Sea salt? All will show, increase TDS>
I didn't think much of it, but I found out I need to repack the di membranes. Anyway, I had some copper tests left over from my previous tank and decided to take a test just for kicks. It turned out that the reading was at .05. (the lowest # on the scale, however it was picking it up).
<Likely artifactual>
My question is, Is the copper that I got out of my tap water through my di unit as harmful and hard to get rid of as the actual regular copper medication. I bought a Pura filtration pad and am running that, along with activated carbon in my powerheads.
I have 150 lbs. of live sand, and 100 lbs. of live rock, and one tomato clownfish in the tank now. Everything seems fine, but I want to get the copper out. It's probably been in for maybe a week or two before I caught it and put the Pura pad in. Am I too late, or do I still have some hope.
Please advise me.
Thank You for all of your past and Future help.
Aaron
<Not a worry... even if present... will be transient. Bob Fenner>

Upside-down Regal Tang ... parasitized, copper poisoned main system - 03/26/2006
I recently upgraded my marine tank from a 75gal to a 120gallon tank. A few days after the move I noticed the beginnings of ICH on my juvenile Emperor Angelfish and my Red Basslet.
<The system itself is infested>
Upon the advice of a friend of mine I gradually lowered the salinity in the tank to 1.014 and started using Cupramine.
<Not the main/display tank... no....>
The ICH started to clear up, everybody stopped scratching and the tank seemed to be much better.
<Just cycled off...>
Then about five days ago, a week or so into the treatment I noticed my 1" Regal Tang lying on her side on the bottom gasping. Her eyes
were so puffed up she looked more like a Black Moor Goldfish than a Tang and she was a bit swollen and bloated looking. I immediately tested the water and all water parameters are fine. Nitrite and Ammonia zero, Ph 8.5, and Nitrates below 20ppm. The only thing I could think might be wrong was the sign efficiently lowered salinity was causing her to absorb too much water. (I'm not
sure exactly how the whole thing works but from what I understand Marine fish are designed to absorb water and excrete salt. So since she was in a lower salinity she soaked too much up maybe?)
<Interesting proposition. Much more likely poisoned by the copper/system treatment>
Anyway, I put her in a floating breeder trap with a few pieces of macro algae for cover and began to slowly raise the salinity in the tank back up. I've got the salinity back up to 1.020 now. By the day after I'd put her in the breeder trap the Regal Tang's eyes had
started to go back down to normal. After five days they're down all the way. But the rest of her is still puffy and bloated. Not to the extent that her scales are standing out on end like Dropsy, she's just puffy. Even along her dorsal fin she's puffy. And she's stuck upside-down.
<Do orient like this in all such space>
She can right herself and swim a little but as soon as she stops swimming she goes belly up once again. I've been throwing a few flakes in for her each day but she's not eating and is not even interested in the Macro Algae. Is there anything else I
can do for her? Does she just need more time to recover or is it hopeless?
<... You've got a bit of reading to do... Start here: http://wetwebmedia.com/parasittksfaqs.htm
the linked files above, Copper Use, the Paracanthurus article and FAQs... Bob Fenner>

Blind Harlequin Tusk? 9/21/05
Howdy Crew,
I've recently purchased a 4" long Harlequin Tusk. After about 5 days in QT it was showing signs of ich. I waited a couple of days to see if it would clear up on it's own and it did not. The fish never stopped eating and was acting normal. So I read up on treating them for ich and saw on WWM that you can use copper but that in too high of a concentration, will cause them to go blind.
<Can, yes>
I decided to go ahead with the copper as the ich wasn't getting any better. I used Mardel Copper Safe and treated with less than the bottle prescribed hoping the tusk wouldn't go blind. This was yesterday and at feeding time last night, the fish was swimming around looking for food but wasn't really finding any. I think he's gone blind. My question is, can a tusk regain their sight?
<Highly unlikely this fish is blind, was blinded... Very likely it "doesn't feel like eating" due to copper exposure>
I immediately put a bag of carbon in the filter to remove the copper and did a 1/3 water change with RO/DI water. Thanks for all your help.
<Mmm, you'll have to devise some method of treatment... Bob Fenner>

Copper in marine systems 9/21/05
Hi Bob
I have been reading about copper on your website and I have a few questions about how long term copper exposure affects fish. I read that fish can get copper poisoning, but how can you tell? What are the symptoms?
<Mmm, some of them... include rapid breathing while the fish is setting on the bottom, at an angle near the top... to very labored/slow breathing... glassed over eyes, milky body appearance, for marines: drooping fins... >
What do you think about keeping tanks constantly dosed with copper as a preventative measure for disease?
<A poor idea... many stores, some wholesale operations utilize copper on a continuous to semi-continuous basis... long-term exposure shortens lifespans considerably>
I am just learning about saltwater systems and am trying to gather as much information as possible.
<Let's settle on "as practical">
Are some marine fish more sensitive to copper than others?
<Oh yes>
Are scaleless fish more sensitive than scaled?
<Definitely>
What exactly does long-term copper exposure do to a fish?
<... several things... how much of this do you want to discuss? The histopathology? Just gross morphology? Maybe just a key example? The loss of packed-cell volume in the blood is one such effect... real trouble, as the hematocrits of fishes are high, DO quite low in seawater>
I read somewhere that copper can eventually kill off all the intestinal fauna in a fish. Is that true?
<Yes>
What else can happen?
<Too much to elaborate here... If truly interested, a trip to a large/college library, search tools there is in order>
I know copper is a heavy metal and I would not think that any exposure it that great. Thank you so much for your time and help!
Regards,
Kristina
<You show tremendous curiosity and intelligence... Might I suggest you use your interest, abilities here to do said search, write up for the pet-fish magazines, pulp and e-... I will help you sell such. Bob Fenner>

Copper treatment and bad reaction - 10/28/2005
Hey guys, another question for you.
<Fire away.>
My Pakistani in QT has been in copper for a week now and he has no more Ich left but now he's darting/flashing/twitching.
<Uh-Oh.>
Is this another outbreak coming or is it from copper exposure?
<It does sound like poisoning.>
Should I take him out or leave him in for the maximum of the two week period (it states in the FAQ'S that a good rule of thumb is 2 weeks of copper exposure for a fish to avoid giving copper poisoning)?
<You should do an immediate, large water change. Run some PolyFilter or carbon to remove the rest of the copper.>
I went this long without harming him, I don't want to take on any additional high risk.

Thanks, Jay
<Thank you for helping me address a weak point. - Josh>

Re: Copper treatment and bad reaction - 10/28/2005
I'd be cool with doing that, but I don't want to put any parasites in my display tank so I feel like I need to go the full two weeks.

I measured the copper very carefully every time I redosed after a water change (if anything, I put less than what I was supposed to).
<Does this mean you only measured what was going in, not total concentration? Even with water changes, the existing copper would still be there, at least to some extent (I doubt you are draining all water and cleaning the tank with each). Do this a few times in a row and there's bound to be trouble. Everything added needs to be adjusted for what already exists.>
He's really not breathing fast, is it possible that he's just reacting to the copper exposure sort of like how we react to an antibiotic?
<I think you most likely lost control of your copper level by accident. Take care of his basic needs now (water quality, feeding), and be prepared to "start over" if the problem manifests itself again. Oh yeah, sorry if you got another blank response. I think this thing timed out on me when I was ready to send, hence no message showed as sent for you. Good luck Jason. - Josh>

Re: Copper treatment and bad reaction...or? Not Using Copper Properly - 10/31/2005
Ok great, thanks Josh.
<Sure! Sorry I'm just responding but I've just signed on for the day.>
I think I was misleading on my email. After a water change I only put in what I took out (redosed copper for the amount of gallons taken out not for the total gallons of the tank all over again).
<Glad you realized not to slam the tank anew. But..>
I did a test for the overall copper level and it's almost 0.3.
<Is this per package instruction. Usually much lower (.015 area).>
I'm having a BIG problem with nitrites, they're at 4ppm and I've done several 30% water changes in a week, and last night just did a 40% and the level won't budge.
<<30%-40% is NOWHERE near the amount of water you should be changing with the situation you currently have. MH>>
<BIG is not even close to the problems this WILL cause! You have serious issues at work here. I've never seen copper at this concentration, thus my question as to instructions. Nitrites at this level are very toxic; can cause suffocation and brain damage (would appear the same as poisoning). I remember on a previous query, you were recommended to use water from your main tank when doing changes to combat this by another crew member. Are you doing this?>
There really isn't any ammonia, which to me, is strange.
<Likely been converted/not registering.>
Am I in danger with nitrites that high for a Pakistani b/f temporarily?
<Yes, for any aquatic animals.>
I only have another week left in q/t,
<According to..?>
<<Usual quarantine protocol is 30 days DISEASE FREE. Why was there no consideration in favor of using hyposalinity for this delicate fish? MH>>
will he be ok with that level for this short period of time?
<No. Stop the copper and address this.>
The other day, even with all of the spots gone, he leaned sideways and scratched his gill on the pvc pipe.
<Suffocation perhaps, or "Are these things on?">
Do you have any idea why he would do this if he's been treated with copper for over a week and had no spots for a week and a half?
<No spots means nothing.>
Is there another outbreak coming or is this a reaction from the copper and/or high nitrites?
<At this point, I'd say either. It seems you are poisoning a brain damaged fish, the Crypt. is likely in larval form now. Read this by Scott F. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichart2mar.htm . You are far from done here, but may still succeed. - Josh>
Thanks, Jay
<Welcome as always.>

Medicating with Copper
We are treating with Coppersafe right now and our water is cloudy.....is that normal? We have also put in Melafix.... that is what we were told to do? Our Coppersafe is at the correct levels, just wondering if it causes cloudy water?
<Hello, the cloudy water could be caused by a heavy bio load, insufficient filtration, or over feeding. If you are medicating with Coppersafe in your main display tank the substrate is going to absorb all of the copper and destroy your biological filtration, which could also cause the cloudy water. Copper in a display is pretty much useless, quarantine the fish in a QT tank and let the display run without fish for 4 weeks. Frequent water changes will help as well. Best Regards, Gage>

Cupramine and bacteria
Dear Bob,
<Joanne>
Thank you for your wonderful and informative web site. I have an important and urgent question. Here is the situation. I have a 120G marine tank. Some months ago I had some disease(s) wipe out most of my fish - to date we could not positively identify the disease but I am sure one of them was ich. I am 30 years in the hobby and I think I have some experience - I hope - but it seems never enough. With the fish that survived some ich did too but never serious. The fish and the ich seemed to strike a balance of power and so it did not seem more pressing that to keep the tank clean as usual.
<This happens... some sort of induced/acquired immunity/stasis>
Recently, because I wish to introduce more fish to the tank (I have two puffers now) I decided that it was imperative to treat the tank with copper. I chose Cupramine as it was most recommended and added it at the recommended dosage. I was assured by the company and the dealers in the local shops here in Montreal that it does not interfere with the biological filtration. How can that be?
<Not... does interfere... may destroy entirely>
Since its introduction the ich is almost gone with some new generations hatching every few days but in decreasing numbers. My ammonia shot up but oddly not the nitrite which is hardly measurable. Because I want to keep stress as low as possible I chose to use a chemical agent called Prime to reduce the ammonia which it does if I use it regularly. I also added some Cycle to replenish the nitrifying bacteria but I am not certain if the copper has not interfered with that too.
<Will>
My question is this. Did I kill the bacteria culture in my filter bed?
<Possibly, or at least sent them into a sort of "metabolic check">
How can I tell? At this time should I worry more about the ich or the ammonia?
<Both, equally... as either could be cause for your puffers loss>
With many thanks and kind regards, Peter Paul Biro
<Do monitor ammonia... consider other treatment modes in future. Will cc Ananda here (our puffer aficionado). Bob Fenner>

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