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FAQs about Fishes and Invertebrates, aka FOWLR Marine System
Livestocking
4 Related Articles: Fishes and Invertebrates Marine Set-ups,
Fish-Only Marine Set-up, Reef
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Many fishes are far better off
in "reef" settings.
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Final Stocking Order (and a Who Dunnit Mystery)
1/2/08 Dear Crew, <Sean> Happy New Year and thanks for all
the valuable guidance you've provided as I've been upgrading to my 220g. The
move of my fish from my 120g went well, and they have been LOVING the new tank.
My current stocking, including the fish I currently have in QT, is as follows:
* Red Sea Golden B/F Pair * Saddleback B/F * Pearlscale B/F * Lyretail
Anthias Male * Bartlett's Anthias Pair (was a trio, but one jumped ship --
new tank is fully covered) * False Percula Clown Pair * Mystery Wrasse
(awesome fish!) * Orangetail Blue Damsel * Blue Green Chromis <The
Anthias and Chromis need more conspecifics to be happy> The next (and last)
fish to join the mix are the following angels and tangs: * Rock Beauty Angel
* Potters Angel * Flame Angel * Purple Tang * Whitefaced Tang (a.
japonicas) OR Achilles Tang * Kole Tang OR Tomini Tang <Mmm, the two
angels and the Achilles are not easily kept> I have two 20g QT tanks and
will also use my old 120g as an additional QT until the 220g is fully stocked.
With these three QTs, I have a lot of options for quarantining order. I know I
should add the most aggressive and most territorial fish last and that I should
add only one species at a time, but with 3 tangs and 3 angels, I'm not sure what
the best way to proceed would be, since they all fall in the
aggressive/territorial category. I could add them all at the same time by
spreading them out across the 3 QTs, but would 6 fish at the same time be too
much of a jolt to the bio load of my 220g? If not, which combination of fish
would you recommend in the various QTs? If it would be too much of a jolt to add
all 6 to the display at one time, in what order should I introduce them? To
recap prior postings... To handle the large bio load, I have 300lb of LR, an
AquaC EV240 skimmer with Mag 18 pump, a 65g sump and a 35g fuge (and will
probably be adding another). Cleanup crew includes 1 fire shrimp, 3 skunk
cleaner shrimp (though I'm thinking of adding a few more later), 4 small emerald
crabs, <Do keep an eye on these... as Mithraculus get bigger, they become
more opportunistic and broader in their feeding habits> 11 Nassarius snails,
1 fighting conch, 5 serpent stars, Nerite snails and an assortment of critters I
got from IPSF.com (sand bed clams, micro hermits, various worms, mini-stars,
gastropod snails). Tank is set up as an island display with swim lanes on all
fours sides of the LR. One other question for you: Until today, I had 2 fire
shrimp, but I found one this morning that literally had its tail chopped or
ripped off. It was the largest (though not fully grown) and least shy shrimp in
the tank, so I'm assuming that the other shrimp didn't do it, and the emerald
crabs are likely too small (1 inch or less). Other than the wrasse or possibly
the serpent stars, I can't think of anything else that would have done this.
<Might be a Mantis that hitchhiked in with your live rock...> The wrasse
sleeps at the opposite end of the tank, and most of the meat of the shrimp's
body was still intact, <Oh! Maybe some other cause... a Stomatopod, other
predator would have dismembered...> so it doesn't sound like the wrasse did
it, unless he was just trolling for sport in the middle of the night. I had the
wrasse, 2 of the emerald crabs, 2 of the serpent stars and 2 of the skunk
cleaner shrimp long before the move to the new tank, and I've had no previous
issues. The rest of the crabs, shrimps and stars were added a couple of weeks
ago after everything stabilized following the move to the new tank. Any idea who
Dunnit? <Mmm, of what you list, no... maybe no one, as stated> I'm worried
that I've got some masked killer lurking in the new rocks that were added during
the move to the new tank... I've been testing the water parameters regularly
since the move, and everything has been fine (pH 8.4, spg 1.024, temp 80,
ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrates 2.5). As always, thank you so much for all
the help. Even my wife, who (probably correctly) thought I went off the deep end
with such a large tank, thinks the new setup is coming along beautifully.
Sean <Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>
Re: Final Stocking Order (and a Who Dunnit Mystery)
1/3/09 Thanks! Do you have any thoughts on my original
questions regarding the stocking order for the Tangs and Angels? Here were those
questions: Would the 6 angels and tangs at the same time be too much of a
jolt to the bio load of my 220g? <Mmm, I don' think it will prove
problematical... due to the size/volume of this system and the hundreds of
pounds of LR... and there is much to be gained by simultaneously adding these
fishes here.> If not, which combination of these fish would you recommend
in the 3 QTs? If it would be too much of a jolt to add all 6 to the display at
one time, in what order should I introduce them? <I'd place all at once... or
all the Angels at once, with the Tangs following weeks later> Also, a
follow-up on your comments re the Anthias and Chromis... Although I have
heard that the Chromis do better in groups, I've also heard that there's a good
chance of one killing the rest and leaving you with just one anyway.
<Mmm...> Would you recommend adding more now, given that this one is already
established? <In a sufficiently big system... not much dominance issue...>
He seems happy enough, seemingly schooling with the Anthias or Clowns some of
the time... For the Bartlett's Anthias, could I add more at this time? <Yes>
I always thought that they needed to come as a group (as they were before the
suicide) and that you couldn't add more later. They seem to be happy as a pair.
For the Lyretail male, I thought from your website that these were OK as
individuals. He's actually still in the LFS QT with several females, and I was
going to move him to my QT this weekend. I don't think I have room for the whole
group, so I was just going to take the male so that one of the females could
step up and wear the pants in the group for someone else who has room. Would you
not recommend this? Thanks again! Sean <The male won't be as colorful,
active... happy as it would be if kept in a haremic circumstance. Bob Fenner>
Thanks again for all the helpful guidance! <Welcome Sean! BobF>
Re: Final Stocking Order 1/5/09 As I think about
how to implement your recommendations, I have a few follow-up questions... I'm
thinking about downsizing my B/F, angel, tang and anthias selections to make
room for more anthias and chromis fishes, as you suggest. Here's what I'm
thinking: B/Fs: 1 Latticed, 1 Pakistan, 1 Pearlscale and 1 Bluestriped Dwarf
angels: 1 Bicolor, 1 Flame and 1 Coral Beauty. Will 3 dwarfs likely get along in
a 220g if added at the same time? <Likely so> Tangs: 1 Kole and 1 Tomini.
The Kole article on WWM suggests that 2 Kole Tangs would likely get along in
this size tank, but I'd prefer a little diversity. Would the Kole and Tomini
likely get along? <Ditto> Anthias: 4 Bartlett's (the male and female I
have now, plus 2 more female) and 3 flame anthias. Should I add the 2 Bartlett's
and 3 flame at the same time, or should I complete the Bartlett's group before
introducing the Flame group? <Six of one...> Generally, I also realize
that the B/Fs, angels and tangs are all similarly sized/shaped. Should I be
concerned, or is this enough diversity for this sized tank? <... Is, IMO>
One last unrelated question... IPSF.com lists micro hermits as no threat to the
snails, but I'm having my suspicions after seeing one trying to prior open one
of my sandbed clams. <I'd believe my own first-hand experiences... "We're
bringing freedom to Iraq"... No, we invaded a sovereign nation and have murdered
hundreds of thousands of their citizens> Seems to me they may still decide
that they would prefer one of my snail's shells more than its own <Mmm, with
all Hermits, one needs to be providing a mix of shells for "upgrading"...
otherwise they will improvise> or may just want to take one apart for the fun
of it. Are micro hermits really safer, or should I be almost as concerned about
them as for the bigger hermits? <Less concerned, but still so> With two
Bristletooth tangs and the rest of my clean-up crew, I'm thinking about evicting
the micro-hermits. <I would as well> Thanks again! <Welcome! BobF>
Re: Final Stocking Order 1/5/09 You are too
funny... I think I'm finally set on my final selections and stocking order.
Thank you for all the valuable insight to help me nail all this down. Cheers!
Sean <Happy to conspire with you Sean... Anticipation is a huge part of fun
in this hobby... even more so when shared with others who are intelligent,
sensitive and open to possibilities. BobF> I agree completely!
Stocklist for 120 Gallon Marine Tank
~ 12/27/08 Hi Guys, <<Dean>> Late 2009-early 2010, I am going
to be starting a 120 gallon Marine tank. <<Neat!>> I am unsure if I will
have a reef or FOWLR but I will make my decision. <<Ok>> The tank is going
to be 4'x24"x24", <<Indeed, a standard 120… And a great choice for a medium
sized tank, with the added inches of the front-to-back dimension over other
standard tanks of similar size>> with separate sump filter and protein
skimmer. My fish Wish List is as follows- *Majestic Angelfish <<Will
ultimately require more space>> *Bicolor Angelfish *Foxface Lo *Yellow
Tang *Sailfin Tang <<Will also require more space>> *T. Percula
clownfish pair Would I be able to drop the 2 Tangs (Yellow and Sailfin) and
add a Lipstick (Naso) Tang or would the tank be too small for one of these?
<<If you are considering the long-term health of these fish, then I think this
is simply replacing one poor choice (the Sailfin) with another>> If I was to
keep the 2 tangs and not replace them with a Naso would I be able to add a Flame
Angel or would this cause a fight between the Majestic or Bicolor. <<The
Majestic likely wouldn�t be much of a problem re, but an *established* Bicolor
would certainly have issues with the Flame. Though if two dwarf angels are
introduced together they may well coexist in this size tank. There are many
*suitable* fishes available for this tank… And you have the time to do the
research…>> Thanks for the help. Dean' <<Happy to share. EricR>>
Stocklist for 120 Gallon Marine Tank…
Pt2 ~ 12/27/08 Hi WWM, <<Howdy Dean>> I have recently sent you
an email about stocking my Marine Tank around this year. <<Ah yes… I think I
just replied to it>> I was talking about something like a Majestic Angelfish
and a Naso Tang. <<Yes>> After further research I realized that a 120 was
2 small for these both as individuals, <<Ah!>> and at the end of the day
it's all about providing the Marine life we keep with the best environment
possible. <<Indeed… Is our responsibility as petfish keepers>> I thought
that keeping one of these fishes in that aquarium would not be meeting their
needs and I wouldn't like to give a Fish a not-so-good life that it shouldn't
have had. Anyway, I currently have a nano reef and am going to upgrade. I
have decided to have a FOWLR and my fish list is as follows. Could you please
point out any compatibility and/or tank size specifications? <<Happy to
proffer my opinion>> I have done research on these fishes and according to my
research they are all okay but I always feel confident getting your opinion as I
find your advice very knowledgeable and helpful. 1 Foxface Lo 1 Sailfin
Tang 1 Bicolor Angel 1 Flame Angel 2 T. Percula clowns 1 Double
Saddle Butterflyfish Thanks heaps once again. Dean' <<I still consider
the Sailfin Tang a marginal choice for the 120 (I've seen pairs of these fish
off the Big Island of Hawai'i that were *bigger* than dinner plates). I think a
smaller species would be a better choice for the long-term. Otherwise, this
looks like a fine selection for this tank. Do closely watch the Centropyge
angels when introduced, but I think there is a good chance they will coexist in
this tank. Regards, EricR>>
Re: Stocklist for 120 Gallon Marine Tank… Pt2 ~ 12/28/08
Thanks once again for your help. <<I hope it has been of use>> I would
have dropped the Sailfin Tang from my list but I had sent the second email,
before you replied to the first. <<Ah, okay… Though it would seem a small
(2-3 inch) specimen would do fine in this tank; and it might for a time, one
should also consider the possible sociological/psychological effects on such a
fish as this from growing up in a too small environment. Are there any Tangs
that I can keep in this tank without compatibility issues? <<Certainly… I
think it would be possible to keep one of the smaller Zebrasoma species with a
like sized Ctenochaetus or Acanthurus species. For instance, a Yellow Tang (Z.
flavescens) and a Kole Tang (C. strigosus), or a Kole Tang and a White Cheek
Tang (A. japonicus)>> If not, can Foxface Lo be kept as pairs? <<I have
heard of rare instances where multiples of differing species have been kept
together. But unless you can obtain a natural *pair* I wouldn�t suggest this
here>> Could you please mention some other choices of fish? <<I think your
earlier listing provides an interesting mix of color and size. My only other
suggestion might be to add a few small fishes from a schooling species like
Cardinal fishes. Perhaps a grouping of five Longspine Cardinals, or Pajama
Cardinals>> I am mainly wondering if I could have a yellow tang or purple
tang? <<Sure… As previously outlined…>> Would one of these be compatible
with the other tankmates? <<It would… The issue (in my opinion) is not that
you have a Tang on your wish list, but rather the species chosen. And there are
those no doubt that would say my advice concerning the Sailfin is too
conservative. The onus is upon you to derive information from *multiple* sources
and then use your own good judgment to come to a decision>> Thanks, Dean'
<<Happy to assist. EricR>>
R2: Stocklist for 120 Gallon Marine
Tank… Pt2 ~ 12/30/08 Hey guys, Would just a yellow tang be fine
with the other tankmates? Thanks <<Hmm, isn't that what I said before
[grin]? Sure... A Yellow Tang will be fine with your other choices. EricR>>
240 Gallon FOWLR Compatibility Big Tank/Big Plans/Big Tradeoffs
(Stocking a 240 FOWLR) 12/4/08 Hey Ya'll! <Hiya! Scott F.
in today!> I am in the early stages of planning a Fish-Only/Live-Rock tank
probably shooting for 240 gallons. I normally wouldn't want to waste your time,
but some of the stocking possibilities will play a big role in the amount of
money I want to put into the project. <I'll bet!> Besides that, I have
seen a lot of information about compatibility and requirements of space for the
fish I am considering, but I have had a hard time finding anything that gives me
a comprehensive answer about the big picture. One thing about the aquarium
shape/size itself: I have this crazy notion that somehow a deeper, more square
tank gives fish a greater feeling of freedom when swimming. For example, is
there any reason to think a 48x48x24 240 gallon as opposed to a 96x24x24 240
gallon would allow creatures like a Koran Angel, Lunare Wrasse or Zebra Moray
Eel to feel like they have more open space in which to roam? Or, am I just
crazy? It seems like the longer, narrower tank would be more cost effective so
that's where I would probably lean if it doesn't change things much. <Good
thought. I'm all about wide, low aquariums, but in the case of fishes that
"range" over large territories in the wild, I would prefer a longer aquarium.>
My biggest question is about the compatibility of fish but even more so about a
sequence of introduction. The fish I am most desiring to house are the following
ordered from most wanted to least: Koran Angelfish, Dragon Wrasse, Harlequin
Tuskfish, Zebra Moray Eel, Lunare Wrasse, Dogface Puffer, Naso Tang, Niger
Trigger, Antennata Lionfish. I am guessing that the Lunare Wrasse is the most
likely to be incompatible with something else on the list even if added last. I
also feel like the Lionfish and the Trigger could be particularly aggressive
towards some of the others especially if they are still small, right? <Oh,
yes!> A loose plan I had would be to add the Koran and Dragon as juveniles
because I would love to be able to watch them change. I figured the Harlequin
Tuskfish, Naso, and Dogface would probably be next. Would they be dangerous to
add while the first two are still juvi's? After some time I thought adding the
Trigger and the Lionfish. I definitely figured if it's compatible at all, the
Lunare would have to be last and I really wasn't sure about the best time to add
the Zebra Moray Eel. So the big questions are, of course, are there any glaring
compatibility issues in the list? Would you make any specific alterations to my
basic sequence of introduction? Is this too much fish(&eel) for 240 gallons?
<To be honest, I'd avoid keeping Naso Tangs in aquariums. They just get so large
and require large amounts of physical space to live anything close to a natural
life span. In my opinion, too many of these magnificent Tangs die needlessly in
aquariums that are too small to sustain them. Other thoughts: I would pass on
keeping both a Trigger and a Lionfish together in the same aquarium. For that
matter, do consider the Puffer as a potential problem for your Lionfish. I would
also consider choosing either the Lunare Wrasse or the Harlequin Tusk Fish-but
not both. They could get pretty aggressive towards each other.. I would get the
Moray Eel in the aquarium as soon as possible and get it eating before any of
the other fishes are introduced. I would probably avoid small juveniles of the
other fishes, so that they don't become snacks for the Moray. Stocking involves
lots of trade offs, huh? Also, take into account the amount of metabolic
wastes that the fishes you are considering will generate!> I had considered a
glith upgrade to 300 (96x24x30) but don't know even how much difference that
would make at this level. <You'd be surprised what a difference it can make.
If you're gonna do a big aquarium, the extra 60 gallons is well worth the
additional expense, IMO.> Again, I don't think there's anybody out there who
I've seen give better advice so I would greatly appreciate your thoughts!
Scott <You're too kind. Thanks for the compliment! Best of luck to you.
Regards, Scott F.>
Re: Identification help? And a whole lot more! Little Fish For
Little Aquariums! 12/4/08 Scott, in no way did I think you
were being insensitive! I actually got a really great laugh out of your
responses! I was afraid I was looking at too many/big fish for each of the new
tanks. <I'm glad that you saw the humor! Really makes sense to review the
stocking requirements of these fishes.> Ok, if I may (again), ask some
probably redundant/stupid questions.... #1 Can a lionfish & a puffer exist
together in a 55 if that is all the livestock that is in there? Assuming here
that I go with the Fu Manchu lionfish and a Blackspotted puffer or spiny puffer.
Of all the more aggressive fish, these are the two that I really, really want.
<Umm, I really would not mix a Puffer with a Lionfish. The Lion is apt to become
a chew toy for the Puffer! Besides the active Puffer may intimidate the rather
shy, reclusive Lionfish.> #2 I want as many fish as possible in the peaceful
30 gallon. What would you recommend getting to make the tank look really "full"
without it exceeding it's limitations for it's size? <Seriously? I'd opt for
really tiny fishes, like small gobies- Stonogobiops, Coryphopterus, Eviota,
Discordipinna, etc.> #3 The Ricordea Yuma--I found one online that looks
similar and is very, very expensive per polyp. How would I determine what
color/kind mine is? <You may have to go online and look at some user groups
for Ricordea enthusiasts.> #4 Lighting--you mentioned that you thought T-5's
would work well for most corals. Is there a certain type (SPS or LPS or leather)
that they would work with? Is there a certain type of coral that absolutely
needs the intensity of the metal halides? With a T-5 setup, could I get one
small hang-on or clip-on metal halide to focus on a specific set of corals if
they needed the higher intensity? <Hmm...really a general question that is
hard to answer. I'd get a lighting system that provides flexibility- T5 or
Halides work well for a wide variety of demanding corals.> Okay that last one
was really like four questions all in one! Sorry about that! <No problem!>
I would like to thank you for the link to the information on the Banggai
Cardinalfish. I think for the time being--until someone figures out for sure if
they are endangered--that I will just stay away from those fish! They are
beautiful though! <Good call! Until tank-raised specimens are more
commonplace, I'd pass.> Well I suppose this is it for now! I look forward to
hearing from you guys! And, many thanks again for all your help! Angela
<Glad to be here for you! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>
Seeking second opinion on FOWLR
stocking. 11/23/08 Stocking Up (Fish selection) Hello Crew, I sent
this in a few days ago, but I think it got lost in space. <Scott F.
here...Checked in space but found it in the inbox right here!> I'm seeking a
second opinion on stocking a 150 Gal (568 liter) FOWLR. <Ok...> Here are
my specifics: 150 gallon tank (568 liter) - 48" x 24" x 30" (122cm x 60cm x
76cm) 200 lbs (91kg) live sand + 40 lbs (18kg) crushed coral 170 lbs
(77kg) live rock For filtration\water movement, I have a Rena XP4, three
powerheads, a Coralife 220 super skimmer. The turnover rate is approximately 10x
the tank volume. I do not have a sump at the moment, however, will be added
during the holidays. Water parameters are: Ammonia: 0, Nitrite: 0, Nitrate:
0, Phosphate: 0\undetectable, dKH: 11, pH: 8.3, SG: 1.025. My current
inhabitants are 1 x juvenile Sailfin Tang (Zebrasoma veliferum) <A neat
fish, but it can/will reach an ENORMOUS size (up to 15"!). You should re-think
this one for the long-term.> 1 x Ocellaris Clownfish (Amphiprion ocellaris)
1 x Royal Gramma (Gramma loreto) 1 x Blackcap Gramma (Gramma melacara)
<Unusual to have both of these species in the same system..> 1 x Cherub
Angelfish (Centropyge argi) 1 x Yellow head Jawfish (Opistognathus aurifrons)
2 x Blue-Green Chromis (Chromis viridis) 2 x Redlegged Hermit Crabs 4 x
Bluelegged hermit Crabs 1 x Peppermint Shrimp Multiple Turbo Snails
(Started with six, they are breeding). <A nice stocking list. You seem to
have a well-thought-out plan, although I do encourage you to fins a larger
long-term home for the Sailfin Tang> I would like to add 2 - 3 Firefish,
either Nemateleotris decora or Nemateleotris magnifica and 2 - 3 Banggai
Cardinalfish (Pterapogon kauderni). <I think a group of the N. decora would
be interesting, but the odds for success are really dependent upon the
individual specimens' personalities. These fish are surprisingly tough to
keep in groups in captivity, with territorial disputes often slowly diminishing
the population. Better to obtain individuals or mated pairs, if possible.
Aggregations of these fishes almost always seem to end up with only one fish
left, in my experience.> My thought is, I am close to full capacity, but am
seeking a second opinion. Would it be smart\safe to add either the Firefish or
the cardinals, or on the outside chance, both? <Hmmm. It's my opinion that
both of these species are a bit too passive to add last to an established
community without the better than average chance of bloodshed or death. I'm
thinking that a more "solid" fish, such as a small-medium Halichoeres species of
wrasse, should fit the bill nicely. There are many to choose from, so do do
some research here on the WWM site under the genius Halichoeres. There are many
hardy, colorful fishes in this genus!> Many thanks, Mike <My pleasure,
Mike. Do keep in touch. Regards, Scott F.>
FOWLR Predator confusion 10/24/08 Thank you in advance
for your information. I have been reading and getting some conflicting or at
least confusing information on your site in one particular area. I am converting
one of my reef tanks over to a predator tank. Not sure of the exact mix, but
something along the lines of triggers, wrasses, maybe smaller puffers or dwarf
lionfish. <Mmm, not Lions with these others... too likely to get picked on
and/or starved> Anyway, I've always been use to having a large clean up crew.
Obviously with this mix, they will just get eaten. <Yes> There have been
many questions on your site about predator tanks and pieces of meat landing on
the bottom etc, and some of the responses have been that's what your clean up
crew is for???? <? Not from me... am not a fan of such reliance. Please cite
specific instances, their location> After they had just named some of the
most aggressive fish out there that was in their tank. So what clean up crew are
they talking about that doesn't get eaten by say a clown trigger of dogface
puffer? <None> If you can't have the typical cleanup crew, what do you use
to keep your live rock and sand bed clean? <You, your gear, careful
maintenance...> Thank you, Brian <Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Is It Okay To Add The Male bimaculatus Anthias First? – 10/20/08
After over a year of searching for a trio (I've been unsuccessful in finding a
group), I've given up and decided to pick up a 4.5" male Twinspot Anthias
(Pseudanthias bimaculatus) in hopes of picking up two to three females sometime
in the future. The male is currently in a 30 gallon quarantine and doing well,
eating mysis and brine shrimp. <<Very good>> I've read conflicting
reports that the females should be added first or at the same time as the male.
<<This is the consensus for the “best” chance of a successful grouping, yes>>
I had also read that there was a risk that by adding the females first, that the
dominant female would eventually change to a male. <<More than just a “risk”
if left too long…best to add the male within a week of introducing the females,
in my opinion>> Lastly, I had read that it was possible that the male would
likely bully females added after the male had been added. <<This too is
true>> Will I be ok with adding two-three females with the male?
<<Possibly>> Or is this asking for trouble? <<The more females added at
one time the more any aggression will be spread around…be aware that the females
too will establish a dominance hierarchy among themselves. Three is a good
number…five would be better (assuming the system can handle them)>> The main
tank is currently a 100 gallon set up over a year and a half old, FOWLR. The
tank is currently inhabited by a pair of 1.5" Ocellaris Clowns, a 4" Raccoon
Butterfly, a 4.5" Achilles Tang, <<Mmm…a delicate species that needs a bigger
tank than this>> a 3.5" Queen Angel, <<Also “too much fish” for this size
tank>> a 3" Mystery Wrasse, a 3" Algae Blenny, and a 3" Eibli Angel. I know,
too many fish for a tank this size. <<Not “too many” for the tank so much as
just inappropriate species selection re>> I have a 240 gallon tank currently
being set up, which will be the FOWLR for the Queen Angel, Raccoon Butterfly,
Eibli Angel, and probably the Achilles Tang with eventually more fish. <<The
Queen Angel can reach 20” in the wild…and the Achilles needs lots of swimming
room (and lots of water flow). With an eye toward the future, I would be
reluctant to add anything but a few very small fishes here>> The 100 will be
converted over to a reef with the clowns, mystery wrasse, algae blenny, and trio
of bimaculatus Anthias. <<Do be aware the Clowns may pose a problem re the
Anthias…I have seen Damsels chase small Anthiines to the point they jump from
the tank in an effort to escape>> Which, by the way, would it be ok to add
one of the fairy wrasses to the 100 with the mystery wrasse? Or will they fight?
<<A similar or smaller sized specimen will likely be attacked>> I enjoy
reading your site and many thanks in advance! –Wes <<We are all happy to
share. Regards, EricR>>
Tankmate for Snowflake Eels and Friends, Tulip/Conch comp.,
– 10/16/08 I am in a school with three large marine
tanks - one 55 gallon predator (will be expanding to meet the needs
of these guys as they grow), one 75 gallon reef tank, and one 500
gallon touch tank. The predator tank has two snowflake eels (10 -
12") one volatin <Volitans?> lionfish (5") one dogfaced puffer (4")
and two wrasse (one clown and one lunar). <Better not confuse
the predator with the touch tank, hehe. Oh, and medium sized wrasses
have been eaten by larger Echidna eels. You will need a big upgrade
in the not-so-far-away future.> The touch tank has a beautiful
Tulip Snail who has worn out his welcome. He is unkindly ridding my
tank of all the other cleaners! <Yes very, very predatory. Does
best in a one-specimen tank.> I have considered moving the Tulip
to the "predator" tank but want to be sure he will not be
bullied/injured by any of these current residents or be a threat to
them. <The latter. Wrasses and puffers sleep at night (partly),
are still small and might become prey, even the eels are a little
small. In addition, the puffer would become a threat to the snail,
molluscs are their favourite prey.> I could use a cleanup crew
(even of one) in this tank. The tulip is quite large 7-8". If he is
not suitable for this tank, could you make other suggestions for
cleaners for this tank which won't be consumed by the predators.
What about chocolate chip starfish? <Would have been among my
suggestions if you provide a good water quality. Can work in your
predator tank, just keep the puffer away from the star for a few
hours, he might try to sample it due to its “new” smell.> Any
other ideas? <Very well armoured hermits.> I also would love
to try a coral here or there, but "Puff" (dogface) liked the looks
of the rock anemone I recently tried briefly way too much! <You
can try a mushroom (Corallimorph), they taste nasty and are disliked
my many puffers (not all, though). Another option might be a
photosynthetic gorgonian or a leather coral, if you have reasonable
lighting. However, it cannot be predicted what the puffer will eat
and what he won’t eat, they really are individuals with regard too
some of their foods.> Thanks for your help. <Welcome. Marco.>
Stocking and moving Plan for 220 Gallon FOWLR
Tank 10/15/08 Hello Crew, <Sean> I'm upgrading from a 120g to a 220g FOWLR
(72L*24W*30H) that will be set up as an island display with visibility from all
4 sides. The overflows will be in the corners, live rock will be in the middle
(with plenty of see-through/swim-through areas) and the area between the rocks
and the glass on all 4 sides will be left as open swim lanes. After much
research, I've finally narrowed down my "wish list" (shown with adult fish
size): * Rock Beauty Angel (8") <Mmm, a rare male... start much smaller...
and this Holacanthus sp. is not easily kept... do read my acct. on WWM re> *
Flame Angel (4") * Red Sea Golden Butterfly (9") <Better in pairs/twos...
I'd skip one of the other B/F's and get two> * Saddleback Butterfly (9") *
Blue Striped Butterfly (5") <A neat species... C. fremblii> * Purple Tang
(10") * White-Faced Tang - a. japonicus not a. nigricans (8") * 2 False
Percula Clowns (already paired) (3.5") * 3 Bartlett's Anthias (4") *
Orangetail Blue Damsel (3") * Mystery Wrasse (5") * Six-line Wrasse (3")
(About 83" total.) I realize that the Rock Beauty requires plenty of
sponge in its diet, and I've seen plenty of suggestions for food sources on your
website, so I really want to give it a try, as this is easily my favorite fish.
So, on to my questions... * Bio Load - What size sump and what size refugium
would you recommend for this to be a "safe" bio load with a 220g tank? <Mmm,
the biggest/largest you can fit in, really> I am not limited to space inside
the stand, as the sump and refugium will be located in the basement below the
tank. <Look into Rubbermaid's troughs...> * Big Fish - The above includes
5 fish that are 8-10" in length. Is this too many "big" fish for this size tank?
<Mmm, no... given the shape, volume of the system... I don't think these
animals will really approach their maximum sizes stated... Maybe half to
two-thirds over years time> * Aggression - The above includes a total of 7
angels, tangs and Butterflyfishes, which are reasonably similar in shape and
diet. I only have 2-3 of each species, and with the exception of the
Butterflyfishes, only one of each genus. I'm hoping that the genus mixture,
coupled with the large tank size (with double the swim lanes resulting from the
island set-up) will minimize the chance of aggression, or is this an accident
waiting to happen? <Mmm, no... I give you very good odds that you'll be fine
here> If so, would the situation be helped much if I "downgraded" the Golden
Butterflyfish to a Lemonpeel Angel and/or "downgraded" the White-faced Tang to a
Tomini Tang so that I have fewer of the "big" fish? <Not really an issue>
* Wrasse - I've read that sixlines can be aggressive toward small, peaceful
wrasse. Should I be concerned about the Sixline harassing the mystery wrasse in
a tank this size? <Mmm, no... s/b plenty of room for them to avoid each
other> If so, I might get a more peaceful radiant wrasse instead of the
Sixline. Also, I've read some sources which indicate that all three of these
could go after small ornamental shrimp, <Can, do> while other sources
indicate that they are completely reef safe and won't harm invertebrates.
<Mmm, not so> What's your impression? Would peppermints, skunk cleaners and
fire shrimp be OK with all three? <If all are well fed... better than even
chances of getting along> * Algae control - Without coral, I'll be able to go
with minimal lighting, and I'll keep the temps around 76", but the tank will be
exposed to quite a bit of direct sunlight. As this is a big, deep tank, I want
to avoid having to go scuba diving to keep algae under control, so the stocking
plan includes a lot of algae eaters. (I'll supplement with seaweed and algae in
the feedings in case algae levels aren't quite high enough.) I've read that the
Kole tang is the best for hair and bubble algae, but I just don't find it as
appealing as the other fish in my wish list. Does the purple tang go after
bubble algae? <Mmm, no, not as much by far> Does the white-faced tang or
the Tomini tang go after it? <The genus Ctenochaetus are best here, and with
micro-algal species that are palatable> I believe they all go after hair
algae, right? <Yes> I know that emerald crabs eat bubble algae, but I
also read many of your FAQs which indicate that they come with their own set of
potential problems... Also, what critter(s) would you recommend for keeping the
sand free of algae? <A sand stirring goby or two perhaps (genus
Valenciennea), and/or a goatfish sp.> I have Nassarius snails and a sand
sifting star in my 120g, but I still get a bit more algae on the sand than I
would like. I may not have enough Nassarius snails stirring up the sand... *
Angels - I know that a tank should be up and running for 6 months before adding
angels. Since most of the rocks and sand will come from the old system that has
been "live" for more than 6 months, how long should I wait before introducing
the angels into the new system? Also, should the angels be introduced last, or
should the tangs be introduced last? <S/b fine to add once the system is
stabilized... let's say in a week or two> * Skimmer(s) - Some sources
recommend using 2 skimmers of different types for large tanks. What types would
you recommend here? Any particular brands/models that you would recommend here?
<One of good quality will do... RK2, EuroReef, AquaC...> * Wet-dry
trickle with live rocks vs. using only live rock - I've read/heard strong
recommendations on both sides of this argument. What do you think would be best
in this setup? <The LR> * The Big Move - My plan is to first fill the new
system with RO/DI water to run and check for leaks, then mix the salt right in
the system. But then what? Should I gradually do daily water changes from the
old system to the new system and gradually move live rocks from the old system
to the new system (adding new cultured rocks to the old system) until the new
system tests well? <Mmm, likely once all is mixed, settled in water wise,
mixing just once, some of the old water for the new... then next week, moving
all the old into the new...> Or would I be better off with a big bang
approach -- i.e., after the new water is fully mixed and salinity/temperature
adjusted in the new system, drain some of the water from the new tank, add all
the new cultured live rock to the new tank and move all of the water and live
rocks from the old system to the new system? <This, with the one
intermittent period> This would then be the equivalent of a massive water
change, since the livestock would have all of their old water and live
rocks/sand, but lots of new water, too. Or is it possible that some water
parameter may get out of balance? (The only inhabitants of my 120g that will
need to make the move are 2 clowns, 3 Anthias, 2 serpent stars, the sand star, a
peppermint shrimp, a skunk cleaner shrimp and various snails and hermits.)
<Best to mix, back and forth at least once...> Sorry for so many questions.
Thanks so much for your help (and for all of the great articles and FAQs on you
website that have greatly helped my research). <No worries, glad to conspire
with you. Bob Fenner>
Re: Stocking Plan for 220 Gallon
FOWLER Tank, esp. dwarf lion comp. 8/18/08 Bob, this is all
VERY helpful. Thanks much. I'd also really appreciate your opinion on a modified
version of the plan that would include a lionfish. I had given up on the idea of
a lion in my 120g so that I could have more fish rather than a smaller group of
bigger fish. In the 220g, it's worth reconsidering. Here's a modified stocking
list (also updated for your prior input): * Dwarf Zebra Lion (7") * Rock
Beauty Angel (8") * Flame Angel (4") * Coral Beauty Angel (4") *
Saddleback Butterfly (9") * Pearlscale Butterfly (6") * Blue Striped
Butterfly (5") * Purple Tang (9") * White-Faced Tang (8") *
Bristletooth Tomini Tang (6") * White Stripe Maroon Clown (6") * 3
Lyretail Anthias (4.7" ea) * Mystery Wrasse (4.7"?) * 2 Diamond Gobies (6"
ea) This is a bigger fish load than the original plan, so would I now be in
potential danger territory for aggression, or will they likely behave given the
extra swim lanes provided by the island setup? <All this could/should work...
the Lion may eat the gobies...> I'm assuming bio load would still be OK with
a large sump/fuge, despite the fact that the lion is a messy eater, right?
<Yes> Assuming I get the lion transitioned to only eating frozen food while
in QT, will these other fish let me get a feeding stick to the lion without
trying to intercept it so that he doesn't starve? <Likely so> I've seen
the mystery wrasse listed anywhere from 3-5". Since I don't know the real size,
is this safe with the lion? <If the Lion is started small... this
Pseudocheilinus is usually "smart" to avoid Dendrochirus, and lives more in and
about the midwater rock work... the Lion and the gobies though... on the
bottom...> If not, would a radiant wrasse (4.5") be safe? <Safer>
Also, are the Lyretails and Gobies safe? <Not entirely, no> I know smaller
fish would be at risk, but I'm not sure if any of these would fit in his big
mouth. <Oh, can> I believe a Fathead Anthias is taller than the Lyretail
while being just as long, so that could be an option (though just one male if I
get this one), or are the other fish too aggressive for the Fathead? <I'd
skip on a/the Serranocirrhitus here... too likely to "get lost" in your setting.
Bob Fenner>
Re: Stocking Plan for 220 Gallon
FOWLER Tank 8/18/08 Thank you SO much! I'll skip the Anthias and
Gobies. Maybe get a Goatfish or just rely on the snails and sand stars to keep
the sand clean. <Ah, good> I'll get a larger mystery wrasse, let him get
started in the tank first, then get a small lion. Thanks again! Sean Patrick
Whelan <Welcome Sean. BobF>
FOWLR Stkg. 10/12/08 HI WWM crew
<Dean> I'm starting a 5ft saltwater aquarium. FOWLR. With
separate external filter sump. The fish I want to get are as
follows. 4 percula clowns 1 longnose butterfly 1 scopas
tang 1 coral beauty 1 royal gramma Are all these fish
compatible and suitable for the tank <Yes> Are there any in
the list that could prove difficult to care for <Mmm, perhaps the
Butterfly... I would place it last... giving the organisms on your
rock, many going on to populate the substrate, opportunity to
spread, stabilize this system... and do take special care in picking
out the Angel... some specimens of coral beauties are very
"rough"... almost impossible to "turn around" from their collection,
handling, shipping damage... Do read on WWM re livestock selection,
this Centropyge in particular> Thanks a lot. Dean <Welcome.
Bob Fenner>
Re: FOWLR lvstk. 10/12/08 Would any
other fish be able to be added or would that be the maximum amount
of livestock for that tank Thanks alot <... no such word>
Dean <Others could go with adequately breaking up the
environment... with rock, decor... B> would I be able to keep a
coral banded shrimp in this aquarium? Thanks Dean <S/b.>
Re: FOWLR lvstkg 10/14/08 thanks The
tank is 5' by 1' will this narrowness interfere with any of the
fishes natural behaviour <Yes, can indeed. B>
Tank-stocking agenda, FOWLR, 55 – 09/12/08
Awesome resource, everyone. Thanks for the invaluable information!
<Welcome> Experienced freshwater/cichlid aquarist wading (sorry
;-) ) into saltwater for the first time. <Ahh, zee plongee!>
I'm nearing the end of my cycling process in a 55 gallon set up. I
have 53 lbs LR and about 2" (+/- 50 lbs) of a seeded LS mix (about
40% live, 60% non-living when I added it). My water quality is right
on: ammonia = 0, salinity = 1.023, <I'd raise this... to NSW
strength... 1.025-6> Temp = 77-78F and steady. Two small
powerheads create some decent movement in opposite corners, both
toward the center of the tank. My next step is a satellite lighting
system then hopefully some inverts/fish which is why I'm writing.
My intentions/hopes are: 1 Maroon Clownfish <Can become a
bruiser... the only fish here in some cases> (or 2 Ocellaris or
Perculas), 1 Australian Scott's Fairy Wrasse, 1 juvenile Koran
Angel, <Mmm, no... not enough room> 1 juvenile Bursa or
Picasso Trigger. <Ditto> I'd like to add a BTA as well and
maybe a long-spined urchin or two. <... wait off on these till
you have more experience...> My questions are 1.) When adding an
anemone and clownfish in hopes to create a hosting situation, which
should be added first? <See WWM in future, but don't try just
yet...> 2.) How 'mature' must a tank be before adding a BTA?
<Mature... a few to several months...> 3.) I know I'm probably
hopeful beyond most experiences intending a Bursa/Picasso in a tank
with a BTA and long-spined urchins; provided that the Trigger is
small when introduced (2") is it at all likely that a.) it won't
bother either or b.) the Clown will protect its anemone (obviously
this assumes it takes the BTA as its host). <Not going to happen
in this small volume. I discourage your trying> As of now I plan
to introduce the fish in an order as follows: 1. Maroon Clown, 2.
ASF Wrasse, 3. Koran Angel, 4. Trigger. Is this advisable? <No>
When should I try the BTA or do you advise against it altogether?
<The latter> I've asked several questions in one, I hope you can
make sense of it in the format I've used. Thanks again for all the
info. You've offered a huge amount of help in the process thus far
and certainly will continue to do so. Joe V. <Keep reading
for now Joe... I don't want you to get so bummed out from bad
experiences that you give up the hobby. What you propose here won't
work. Bob Fenner>
Re: Tank-stocking agenda, FOWLR, 55 9/12/08
Bob, <Joe> I appreciate the quick response. And thanks for the
suggestions. Don't worry about my being put off by the info; I'm
searching for the right information because at this point I prefer
to learn by researching rather than (bad) experience. <You are
wise here> For the sake of the process, the money spent and most
of all, providing the proper environment for these guys. I'll
reconsider, keep reading and let you know what I arrive upon. Next
time I write it me be re: 200 gallons ;-) Thanks again. Joe V.
<Welcome! BobF>
Wrasse Compatibility/Stocking - 55 gal FOWLR 9/18/09
Crew, I'm currently in the process of planning my stock for a 55 gallon FOWLR
tank. Obviously for any new tank there can be tons of options so while it's an
exciting time, I'm committing myself to having the plan laid out before making
any expensive purchases or costly stocking decisions. Upon Bob's better
judgment I've scrapped Plan A (Maroon, Fairy, Koran, Bursa) and it's back to the
drawing board. <Good> I'm showing 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrites, 8.0-8.4 pH, 1.026
specific gravity (upped that a bit a week ago on Bob's recommendation - Thanks
again!) 10-20 Nitrates ppm. 53 lbs LR, 2-3" LS (~50 lbs). A few questions
in specific regards to Wrasses: 1. I'm strongly considering 2 species. A
Sixline (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia) and a Scott's Fairy (Cirrhilabrus
scottorum) (My LFS currently has a beautiful 4" Australian specimen; though it
also has a beautiful 3-digit price tag.) So the question here is which should I
introduce to the system first? The Scott's Fairy or the smaller, though
probably more feisty Sixline (2")? <Mmm, what else is to go here?> 2.
Also, I've seen a few references made on WWM as to QT and Wrasses. Should
typical QT practices not apply to Wrasses? Should I just drip acclimate, dip and
add? <I would do the latter with these species> 3. I'd also like to add a
Maroon Clown. Which should I add first of these three? Or is this a
one-or-the-other situation? <I would not keep a Premnas in this size, shape
system with other fishes... It's too likely to bully them... to the extreme.
Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marclncompfaqs.htm> 4. I understand the
Sixlines offer a bit of 'housekeeping' by feeding on small LR inhabitants. Is a
general diet of Mysis, Brine, et al. sufficient for the Sixline in addition to
what the LR/LS already offers? <Yes> Thanks so much, Joe V.
<Please... learn to/use the search tool, indices... on WWM. BobF>
New Tank Stocking – 09/08/08 Good day Crew,
<Eric> Thank you in advance for your assistance. I read so much
on a daily basis.. at times the words run together! <Mmm... I try
drinking less coffee and caffeinated diet sodas... getting up, away
every hour or so from the keyboard... reflecting paragraph to
paragraph, asking myself "what is this saying?"> I am setting up
a new saltwater tank and just have a quick question. I have a bare
tank (in the planning stages.. have yet to figure out filtration,
etc. I have not bought any of the following livestock or the
filtration system. It will be well filtered with high levels of
mechanical and biological filtration, and will of course have a
great skimmer. Here is my proposed stock list: 1. Zebra
Moray Eel (Gymnomuraena zebra) 2. Yellow Eye Kole Tang
(Ctenochaetus strigosus) 3. Flame Angel (Centropyge loriculus)
4. Wrasse (Lunare, Blue, or some other related Wrasse) 5. Long
Spine Urchin (Diadema setosum) 6. Turbo Snails (Turbo sp.)
<These last two may prove incompatible with the Eel and Wrasse>
The most important are the Zebra Eel and the Flame Angel. <These
two can co-exist fine together... the Gymnomuraena needs a good
volume more... at least a hundred gallon system> I am a bit
concerned re: the Compatibility of the Flame and the Kole (will add
the Kole first) <These two should do fine together as well>
and I'm concerned about the Eel/Wrasse and the Urchin. <You
should be... too likely the eel will damage itself... the
Thalassomas will eat them if hungry> I have read that the Urchin
has the long spines to protect itself, but I'm a bit doubtful.
Again, thank you very much for your assistance! Eric <Do keep
reading, accumulating notes for now... This is the best path to
assuring future success. Bob Fenner>
Re: New Tank Stocking, FOWLR 9/9/08 Hi
Bob, <Eric> I really appreciate the help. I've been doing a
ton of reading, and actually (after writing) saw a picture of 2
Lunare Wrasses dismantling and eating an Urchin, so that's a no go.
Also, I wouldn't want the clumsy (and somewhat vision impaired) Eel
getting hurt by the spines. <Good> I forgot to mention that I
have a 75 gallon tank, so I think that the Zebra eel will be out.
<Agreed> I've read a lot of conflicting info.. some say 75
gallons is the minimum, some say 100 gallons.. I tend to think it
grows too large for my 75 and will be a messy eater. <See my
article re this species on WWM...> Here's my updated list, in
order of introduction. Can you give a moderate critique? (I
promise this won't be a recurring theme!) <I can, will> 1.
Small shoal of Damsels (lesser aggressive types, such as the
Yellow-Tailed Blue or possibly Chromis, though I bet they'll get
picked on by the Wrasse) 2. Kole Tang 3. Snowflake Eel
(friendlier than most eels, and smaller than Zebra) 4. Flame
Angel 5. Lunare Wrasse <This mix could work... as you
state/hint, the Lunare may prove to be too raucous...> All these
previously mentioned fish will be added at about a rate of 1 per
month or so, and I'll buy them small. Once the fish start
getting bigger, I'll relocate the Damsels to other tanks ( I have
other homes for them). <Ah, good> Does this seem like the
correct order? Also, slight possibility of the tank being
overstocked? <I'd place in the order you list above> Thanks
again, I honestly appreciate it!! Eric (P.S... in my research,
I went to YouTube and saw some videos of my prospective fish 'in
action'.. good place to go for additional insight, although I
wouldn't trust their information.. I saw a video that had a Bamboo
shark and about 1/2 dozen other small- too large fish in a 75 gallon
tank! awful..) <Thank you for this. Bob Fenner>
FOWLR compatibility question?, 9/4/08 First off I have to say I
love your site and use it regularly to research new fish and also to gain new
information. <Great> I currently have a 46 gal tank with about 75 pounds
of live rock and also have about 50 pounds of live sand. As of right now I
have one flame cardinal and a dwarf or falco hawk and I was thinking about
adding one or two more fish to my system in which I would like to get a
Valentini puffer and/or a Picasso trigger. <The Picasso gets way to big for
this tank, the Toby may work, but I would be concerned with the Hawkfish, which
it may nip due to it's sedentary behavior.> I have been looking for a hardy
fish that is also very active and entertaining to watch and happen to come
across these two at the my LFS and was wondering what your opinion would be on
these two fish? Thanks Chris <Definitely no on the trigger, and I would
probably skip the Toby as well. Perhaps on of the smaller wrasses or a pair of
good old clowns would work here. Lots of other choices available as well.>
<Chris>
FOWLR System Stocking – 08/29/08
Dear Crew,
<<Steve>>
I have a Sea Clear system II 125, already aged 3 yrs with a 1 mandarin, 1 yellow
tang, 1 blue tang, 7 chromis, 1 imperator angel, 1 Pseudochromis, 1 cleaner
shrimp, 1 clown, 1 coral beauty, 1 emerald crabs. All doing very well. Are these
guys compatible with a Naso tang and Heniochus acuminatus butterfly fish?
<<Compatible, yes…but “too much” for this already well stocked tank. Best to
pass on these additions and allow the fishes you have to continue to mature,
grow, and live with some room to do so, in my opinion>>
Thank you,
Steve
<<Happy to share. EricR>>
Over stocked marine tank.
Stocking Concessions-Considering the "End Game" 8/21/08
Hello all.
<Hey there! Scott F. in today!>
I have a 500ltr main tank with a 200ltr sump.
I moved from freshwater to marine about months ago and have built up a
nice stock of fish. But as the fish have started to grow I have found
that I am now over stocked and want to remove one or two fish to allow
me to buy a banner fish which I have taken a shine to.
<It happens all the time! I commend you on your awareness, and the
desire to rectify the situation!>
Stock - fish
6" Niger trigger
7" Regal tang - Kids are fond of this one
5" Yellow Tang
2 x 3" Clown fish
3 x 5" Convict Blennies
3 x 3" Green Chromis
4" Tasseled Filefish
3" Purple Dottyback
4" Red Hawkfish.
<Whew! That IS overstocked for a 500 liter aquarium...you will
definitely have to make some concessions here!>
Inverts
Various turbo snails
Large brittle star
Sand sifter
red and black urchin (name unknown)
Coral banded shrimp
2x scarlet cleaner shrimps
Various hermit crabs
other unidentified crabs (poss. Emerald but hard to find and not bought
intentionally)
Firstly am I over stocked ( I think I could be).
Secondly what recommendations would you make to get the stock ratio
right.
Many thanks in advance
Paul Brindle
<OK, Paul, let's think it through. It helps to consider the ultimate
potential adult size of the fish that we keep. Even in the confines of
an aquarium, these fishes will reach large sizes and suffer as a result.
The Trigger, in particular, needs huge amounts of physical space,
produces copious amounts of metabolic waste, and just gets plain old
mean as it grows. With a number of other larger fishes in the aquarium,
this is not a viable long-term choice for this system, IMO. Even though
the Regal is a gorgeous fish, and very commonly kept, I'm of the opinion
that they need HUGE systems to live in-like thousands of liters. They
are potentially very large fishes, and need large quarters to live happy
lives...they can live over 20 years in captivity! Consider finding a
much larger home for this fish in the near future. The Tassled Filefish
can get pretty large, and is a potentially voracious predator on your
smaller invertebrate life. The other fishes are good choices, but do
keep eye on the Convict Blennies! In the end, I think that you'll do
well with some of these trade offs-and more important, your fishes will
do well. Remember the "end game" when stocking an aquarium, and you'll
become very adept at making good stocking choices in the future! Good
luck! Regards, Scott F.>
Over stocking, SW FOWLR ...
double-posted? 8/22/08
Hello all.
<Paul>
I have a 500ltr main tank with a 200ltr sump.
<Good proportionality>
I moved from tropical to marine about 18 months ago and have built up a
nice stock of fish. But as the fish have started to grow I have found
that I am now over stocked and want to remove one or two fish to allow
me to buy a banner fish which I have taken a shine to.
<Mmm, okay... many Heniochus are social though>
Stock - fish
6" Niger trigger
7" Regal tang - Kids are fond of this one
5" Yellow Tang
2 x 3" Clown fish
3 x 5" convict blennies
3 x 3" green chromis
4" tasseled filefish
3" purple Dottyback
4" red Hawkfish.
Inverts
Various turbo snails
Large brittle star
Sand sifter
red and black urchin (name unknown)
Coral banded shrimp
2x scarlet cleaner shrimps
Various hermit crabs
other unidentified crabs (poss. emerald but hard to find and not bought
intentionally)
Firstly am I over stocked ( I think I could be).
<Mmm, you're "right about there"... with growth, yes>
Secondly what recommendations would you make to get the stock ratio
right.
<Mmm, either the Filefish (which will get too big) or the Odonus (which
may prove too aggressive soon)>
Many thanks in advance
Paul Brindle
<Welcome! Bob Fenner> |
Stkg. 75 gal., FIWLR 7/20/08
Hi all,
It's me again, sorry about all the stocking questions all the time, just don't
want to over crowd, and I still have fish I would love to have if I could. Right
now, I have a Pink Skunk Clown fish, a Six line Wrasse, a Flame Angel, 3 Green
Chromises, a Lawnmower Blenny, a Fire fish, a Chalk Bass, a Serpent Star, a
Skunk Cleaner Shrimp, 2 Feather Dusters, 2 Emerald Crabs, a Sally Light Foot,
and assorted Mushrooms all in a 75 gallon tank. I have a Remora Pro, and an
Emperor 400 that I only run with 2 generic cut to fit filter pads, and 80 lbs of
live rock. I do a 20% water change, replace the filters in the Emperor, and
clean the protein skimmer pre filter every Friday morning.
I wanted to know if you think this is maxed out. What I still really like for
fish are, another Pink Skunk Clown, a Fairy Wrasse, another star fish, and or
more Mushrooms. I would also like to take out the three Chromis and give them to
a friend. Do you think I can add any of these to my tank with/without taking out
the Green Chromises? And if so, which ones?
Also, how would suggest getting the Green Chromises out of the tank? Aside from
taking the whole take apart. And last, how often would you suggest giving the
whole protein skimmer a vinegar bath, to clean out the inside.
Thanks again,
Marc
P.S. Do you think feeding the fish a half of cube of frozen food once in the
morning and once at night is sufficient, or too much?
<I do not believe your aquarium is maxed out. A 75 gallon tank is large enough
for fish such as clowns, fire fish, etc. You may want to add a tang such as a
yellow or purple, maybe even a bristle mouth tang such as a Chevron or Kole for
algae control. I would also clean the protein skimmer as it becomes full with
waste. Hope this helps, IanB>
Stocking question, Marine 7/4/08
Hey Guys,
<Hello>
I really enjoy the site, lots of great info there!
<Thanks>
I have some questions about the stocking of my tank, and what you think of it so
far. I have a 30 Gallon saltwater system, with 35 pounds of live rock, a Prizm
Skimmer, (rated for 100 gal)
<Does not have a great reputation.>
two smallish powerheads for circulation. I have finished adding fish to it, I
added them over a period of a few months, one or two at a time. The order went
as such 1 Ocellaris Clown (Genghis), followed by two more a few weeks later
(Kublai and Attila) as I was told that adding just one more would lead to one of
them probably killing the other.
<Actually 2 will most likely pair up and kill the third as they mature.>
The cleanup crew came after that, over a period of a few weeks. The cleanup crew
comprises 2 scarlet hermits, five tiny blue legged hermits, five neisseira
<Nassarius?>
snails, and a Monaco shrimp (Paul). Finally I have added a scooter blenny and a
coral beauty angelfish.
<Both of these need larger tanks, the angel will outgrow this tank and the
scooter "blenny" (really a dragonet) will not be able to find sufficient food.>
I don't plan on adding any more. The fish are all eating well and swimming
around fairly energetically. The clowns have found a niche by the heater, and
the Angel sits behind one chunk of live rock most of the time, coming out and
swimming around every now and again.
They come out a lot more during the day. Am I overstocking this tank?
<Not really overstocked, but inappropriately stocked in my opinion.>
Every other site I have found states that a 30 gal tank should be sufficient and
my LFS said it should be fine, but I don't want the fish to be unhappy so want
to check as your site suggests a larger tank for what I have.
<I would agree with what you found on our site.>
I am also having a lot of algae problems... though I was told this is normal for
a new tank... I'm getting brown algae, lots of green hairy algae, and following
that a but of this nasty purple goopy stuff that bubbles a lot (I'm guessing
Cyanobacteria, so I try to clean it out when it happens).
<Its common for this to happen in new tanks, but you want to control it as best
as you can since it is quite difficult to remove once it has gotten a foothold.>
It usually comes back a few days after I've cleaned it off. I do a 3-5 gal water
change every couple weeks, and my water chemistry is as follows S.G 1.026, pH
8.3-8.4, Alkalinity is in the normal range, Temp 78-79 F, Nitrate almost 0,
Ammonia is less than .25, but above zero, though this is a few days after adding
the last fish so probably doing a little cycle of sorts.
<Watch this very closely, ammonia is very toxic even in small amounts, be
prepared for extra water changes.>
Should I expect the algae to go away soon, or should I try switching to RO/DI
water?
<I use RO/DI, removes some guesswork, but time will tell if you need it or not.>
(Currently use tap water but it apparently has no nitrate, phosphate etc when I
tested it).
<Good>
I also cut back on the amount I feed them, I feed them New Life Spectrum flakes
with garlic, some green Nori seaweed, and mysis shrimp (frozen) for some
variety.
<May want to feed every other day for a while to get the algae under control.>
I do hope to eventually add some soft corals too.
Does this tank have a chance of succeeding?
<You have some stocking issues, but the basic setup has a good chance of
success.>
I'd hate for anything to die or even suffer here. Thanks so much for your help.
I have looked over a LOT of your stocking suggestions etc, but nothing that
really addressed my specific situation.
Eric
<I would look for new homes for 1 of the clowns, the angel, and scooter blenny,
then find a couple of more appropriate fish.>
<Chris>
120g FOWLR Livestock Plan –
06/29/08
I'm finally getting there! Eric gave me some good tips on my livestock plan
so I have revised and am ready for a review before I start stocking.
<<Okey-Dokey Jean…Eric here again… let’s see what you have>>
I've attached the last email, so you can delete it but wanted you to be able to
see the backup info.
<<Thank you…is always helpful and requested>>
Quick summary: Current: 20 gal tank with 14# live rock and a DSB with plenum,
current occupants, 6 year old cinnamon clown (A. melanopus) and 6 month old
mandarin (Synchiropus splendidus),
<<And just to reiterate for other reader’s edification…this tank is too small
for both these fishes…combined OR on their own>>
4 red mushrooms (7 yr old), and green star polyps (3x3 size) with a half dozen
blue legged hermit crabs. Upgrading to: 120 gal 2x2x4 tank, running since 6-4-08
(just over 3 weeks - so very young yet).
<<Indeed>>
Euro-Reef 180 skimmer, Eheim 1262 return pump, Current Sundial T5HO 4x54 watts
(have them on only 5 hr a day at this time, since don't have anything in the
tank per se), 125# live rock, 1 inch sugar fine sand in display (inoculated with
1 cup from 20 gal tank) and 50 gal refugium with 6" deep sand bed (sugar fine)
also inoculated with another cup from 20 gal tank. Refugium lights on for 12 hrs
at night. 3 Maxi-Jet 1200 and 2 Koralia-4 circulating the tank. Added a good
number of copepods (from my LFS's tanks), 3 Astrea turban snails and 4 Nassarius
snails along with Chaetomorpha linum and some red macroalgae (looks like red
Gracilaria) on 6-22-08.
<<Mmm… Though many folks do this, I don’t recommend “combining” different
species of macroalgae in the refugium. These organisms “compete” for space just
like any other…releasing chemicals to inhibit the others growth or even kill it
outright. Such activity, aside from the obvious harm caused, engages
energies/processes better spent on the reasons you placed the macroalgae in the
refugium in the first place>>
Feeding the tank/copepods phytoplankton daily (1T/day).
<<Do be cautious/monitor closely…is easy to overdo>>
Since my rock was already cured and I used live sand with some from my old tank,
I'm not sure if I've "cycled" or not,
<<Observation/testing will reveal this…but no need to be in a rush. I think I
have already stated that the longer you let this tank run sans fishy livestock
the better it will be>>
so am hoping that with the addition of the snails, I may be cycling/cycled (can
I be cycled with my nitrate at zero?).
<<Um, yes…though this should be monitored with each addition>>
So my question is not only around my stocking but whether or not I should do
anything else before stocking?
<<While this tank continues to run, and in the absence of fishes and associated
foodstuffs added re…I would be adding some “protein” in the form of a pinch of
flake food or my favorite for this, a few shrimp pellets every couple days.
Doing so will help to grow and sustain those organisms that require such>>
I plan on quarantining for 3 weeks so if I get my first fish, it would be a
minimum of 3 weeks before it goes into the display (have a filter sponge in my
20gal that is seeded and ready). Testing (using Salifert tests) so far:
6/28/2008
Spg: 1.026
pH: 8.2
Temp: 81
NH4: <0.25
<<Should be ‘0’…this tank is NOT cycled>>
NO2: 0
NO3: went from 0 last week to 1 this week with the addition of the snails,
copepods and macroalgae
<<Not unusual…and the reason I say to test after each addition…as it seems you
are doing>>
P04: 0.5
<<Best to get this to 0.02 or below>>
dKH: 8.4
Alk: 2.98
Ca: 400
I started out using Mike Paletta's stocking suggestions and since reading Bob's
conscientious Marine Aquarist and his and Anthony's Reef Invertebrates. I went
through the CMA and read about all fish - wanting to keep the copepod
competition down so the mandarin gets most of the copepods; I eliminated the
Longnose Hawkfish and the Midas Blenny from my list. I wanted a Jawfish, but I
chose to keep the DSB in my refugium, so guess he is also off my list. Eric, you
asked me what I like so I went through the CMA and here are my picks...I'd love
your feedback as well as suggestions as far as the order of introduction (I know
it is usually the peaceful first, aggressive last).
<<Indeed…and I am happy to offer my opinions here (as usual [grin])>>
I tried to stick to easier fish and more peaceful, but I'm not sure how
"peaceful" these all are, which is why I'm coming to the experts.
1. Amphiprion melanopus (Cinnamon Clown) - from old tank, thinking last since
she is probably the most aggressive (she is used to having the world to
herself).
<<Hee-hee! This is an aggressive fish, regardless…and in more than three decades
of petfish keeping, is the only fish species I’ve been lucky enough to have draw
blood! (I used to keep Piranhas that were less scary to work around than a well
acclimated/established Cinnamon Clownfish can be!)>>
Will keep her in the 20 gal if you think she is a roadblock to these fish - I'm
looking for a more peaceful tank - and clowns are not peaceful from what I read.
<<Is a “Damsel” ya know…>>
2. Synchiropus splendidus (Mandarin) - (from old tank) also thinking of adding
last to allow my copepods to grow in the refugium since she is doing good in the
20 gal; which I know is too small but the rock is apparently keeping her fat and
happy along with the Cyclop-Eeze, Arctic Pods, and live brine shrimp I'm feeding
her (the clown's not complaining either).
<<I think the jury is still out on this fish…but time will tell>>
3. Zebrasoma xanthurus (Purple Tang) or Z. flavescens (Yellow Tang) – how many
months do you think the tangs need - since my rock doesn't have algae yet -
except for the rock that will come from the 20 gal?
<<Not to worry…the alga component can be easily supplemented (I like the ‘Sea
Veggies’ offerings from Two Little Fishies>>
I know I'll feed them other sources as well, but don't want to put them in a
premature tank either.
<<The longer the better… My tank ran fishless for seven months at startup…and
yes, it is difficult to wait/look at a fishless tank for so long>>
4. Acanthurus japonicus (White faced Tang) or A. pyroferus (Chocolate Tang) -
same as above - would plan on introducing both in the tank at the same time if I
can.
5. You had also recommended possible Ctenochaetus strigosus (Kole Tang), but
unsure if you meant choosing between the Acanthurus and Ctenochaetus or both.
<<I meant one or the other>>
Would 3 tangs be too much for a 120?
<<Mmm…this is starting to push the envelope I think…though the species you have
listed would be the best choices re, in my opinion. But still…better to stick to
two specimens>>
6. Centropyge loricula (Fame Angel) or C. bispinosus (Coral Angel) or C argi
(Cherub/Pygmy Angelfish) - also needs algae for grazing
<<And just one more reason to let the tank “mature” for some months>>
- they also will compete somewhat for the copepods?
<<Yes>>
Should this one go before/after the tangs?
<<Although not “passive” in nature, I would add this fish before any tangs>>
7. Pterapogon kauderni (Banggai Cardinalfish): would like a school (no more than
5) of them and think they would be introduced in the beginning, since they are
shy?
<<I have rarely seen this fish cohabitate as a “school” in captive systems…and
then not for long. Usually a dominant pair will form and badger the others to
the point of death from starvation/stress>>
Since I need to introduce them together, might be too much of a test for the new
tank although Bob says they need an established system as well.
<<Yes…and is best for “all”>>
I have lots of hiding places ready for them. You suggested the Pajama Cardinals
as more successful and may need to choose them instead as much as I love the
Banggai.
<<I very much suggest this, yes>>
8. Gramma loreto (Royal Gramma): I'm thinking he may be the first one to add?
<<No…of those listed thus far, I would add the Cardinals first…then the Gramma>>
9. Heniochus acuminatus (Long-fin Bannerfish): These looked like some really
cool schoolers as well (pg 235). Should be introduced all at once as well?
Number? Five?
<<Way too many for this tank (grows to nearly a foot in length in the wild). No
more than one if you wish to keep adding other fishes here>>
10. Johnrandallia nigrirostris (Barberfish) (p239): Another cool species that
could also be kept in a school?
<<Seemingly so, and a better choice than the Heniochus re relative size>>
Could I keep 2-3 schools (Bannerfish, Barberfish and Cardinals)?
<<Not in this volume… Perhaps a half-dozen Cardinals (Pajama, hopefully) and a
pair of the Barberfish. One must not forget the Tangs and other fishes you also
want to add. Else, you need to rethink what you wish to do with this
tank…perhaps a “species” tank with a “schooling” fish as the “primary”
inhabitants and the rest “built around” this choice>>
(I'm sure I can hear you groaning at this point!)
<<That obvious, eh [grin]>>
11. Forcipiger flavissimus (Yellow Long-nosed Butterflyfish) or F. longirostris
(Big Long-nosed Butterflyfish) (p241): Bob says that they are good "first
timer's Butterflyfishes, so added them to my list, but do they go with this
list?
<<Yes…but now you are getting to the point where you must start to decide
between one or the other based on space limitations. I’m sure this new 120g tank
seems huge as compared to the 20g…but it is not infinite in what it can
suitably/responsibly house>>
12. Cirrhilabrus punctatus (Finespotted Fairy Wrasse): They also may eat
copepods as a secondary source, but I see wrasses recommended often and these
are beautiful.
<<Yes…and jumpers too>>
13. Pholidichthys leucotaenia (Convict Blenny): (not a true blenny I guess). Can
keep
in a group or single?
<<Yes>>
Maybe another possibility for one of the first to be introduced?
<<Yes again…though maybe a more cryptic species than you will prefer>>
14. Gobiosoma oceanops or evelynae (Neon Goby): for their janitorial duties and
coolness.
15. Linckia or Fromia starfish? I like the orange Fromia star or the red reef
starfish and the orange Linckia.
<<Stick to the Fromia species…much more aquarium suitable than the Linckia
species>>
Not sure if I need one and if so, for the display and/or refugium? (don't want
carnivorous ones)
<<These are omnivorous creatures…and better in the display than the refugia>>
I'm thinking of not transferring my hermit crabs to my big tank - they ate all
my snails and my coral banded shrimp in my 20 gal.
<<Yes…very opportunistic>>
Any other detritus or sand shifting invertebrates that you would suggest?
<<A few more Nassarius snails and some Cerith snails…added to both the display
and the refugium>>
I am willing to switch any around - I'm not dedicated to any - so if I need to
skip the tangs to keep the schoolers, I'm willing...just have my heart set on
keeping the mandarin happy and providing a home for rest of the clown's life.
<<Understood… If you skip the Tang and Heniochus species, and probably
Forcipiger too, you could have a trio of Barberfish and a small school of
Cardinalfish (5) along with your other choices, and have a more successful yet
still very nice display I think>>
If she is the problem to having a peaceful tank, then I'll keep her in the 20
gal and build the 120 without her.
<<She may be fine in the 120…though she will likely be “the boss”>>
Also, don't want to overstock so am not saying I want all 15 choices if it
overloads the system.
<<Indeed it would…greatly so in my opinion>>
You've been with me through the design and I've learned so much!
<<Ah, very good…but more to go, yes? Do keep reading my friend>>
I sure don't want to make a mistake with the livestock.
<<Then please take your time and consider your options/choices carefully>>
I'm also willing to wait as long as it takes, so if you say add one or none now
and wait for 3 months, I'll do that too.
<<Hee-hee! I say wait three months (or longer!) before adding ANY!>>
It's a big investment and patience is the key to success.
<<Ah yes…an investment in money AND lives>>
Thanks Eric or Bob and all of you, you've been great!
<<We are all happy to share>>
This wouldn't be possible, at least successfully, without all of you.
<<And don’t forget your part…reading, researching…and caring. Is quite the
collective effort indeed. Cheers, Eric Russell>>
Re: 120g FOWLR Livestock Plan -
06/29/08
Thank you so much Eric for your advice!
<<Is my pleasure to share, Jean>>
My husband is worried for my sanity because he said there must be
something wrong when one can just sit and stare at rocks in a tank
watching for any type of growth.
<<Hee-hee! Not a fish nerd, eh?>>
Thinks I'm just seeing things since he doesn't get down on the floor
(like me) to see the copepods moving around in the refugium.
<<Indeed…and much more to come!>>
So I'll tell him that I'm not crazy and the tank will remain fishless
for the summer!
<<Excellent! It will truly gain form this>>
Couple of questions before I go though; the Salifert tests don't go to 0
for the ammonia tests; there is no color when I test, so < 0.25 is the
lowest the tests go.
<<Ah, okay…is probably fine then>>
What is your suggestion to remove the phosphate?
<<This should sort out on its own at this point, as the tank/rock/sand
bed continues to mature>>
Could it be the phytoplankton that is adding it?
<<This is a possibility, yes…and easy to test>>
I'm using CaribSea seawater at this point, so it can't be coming from
the water.
<<Mmm, have you tested for such? Also, I highly suggest you obtain a
quality mix (Tropic Marin or Seachem…or better yet, both and “blend”
together) and start making/storing your own saltwater for this much
larger tank. Do a keyword search on our sight re…and give me a shout if
you need to discuss further>>
When I add top off water I'm using R/O water that I tested and its zero
for phosphates.
<<Stop dosing the Phytoplankton and see what happens…though this
Phosphate reading could also be attributed to any “new” rock that’s been
added>>
Would you recommend that I add the extra snails and the Fromia now to
keep the sand clean? If not, when?
1. Fromia starfish
2. Nassarius snails
3. Cerith snails
<<Go ahead and add these now>>
Plan: Begin stocking around December - 6 months - just so I have this
straight - I continue to run this tank empty (per se) and just feed it
shrimp pellets (in display and/or refugium?) and some phytoplankton
(watching my ammonia and nitrite levels to ensure they stay zero) and
wait for about 6 months before stocking with fish?
<<You got it!>>
How often would I do water changes during this time?
<<There will be biological processes occurring/bio-minerals being
utilized, though at a much lower rate than will happen later once
stocking begins. You could possibly get by with “no” water changes
during this fallow period…but a 10% exchange each month can’t hurt>>
(I'm always amazed at how much I can read and still have so many
questions!)
<<As we all do…but don’t stop reading! [grin]>>
Finally, can you help me with the order of introduction then with the
revised list?
<<Sure>>
I have the following:
1. Sphaeramia nematoptera (pajama cardinal) x 5 (first?)
<<Yay!!! And, yes!>>
2. Gramma loreto (Royal Gramma) x 1
3. Gobiosoma oceanops (Neon Goby) x 1
4. Pholidichthys leucotaenia (Convict Blenny) x 1
<<These are very social fishes…do get at least two>>
(What did you mean by-may be more cryptic than I may prefer?)
<<They tend to stay within the rockwork much of the time/won’t show
themselves much but at feeding times…but still very neat fish>>
5. Johnrandallia nigrirostris (Barberfish) x 3
6. Cirrhilabrus punctatus (Finespotted Fairy Wrasse) x 1
7. Centropyge (one of the angels - most probably the Flame Angel)
8. Mandarin
9. Cinnamon Clown (last?)
<<This order of introduction should be fine>>
Again, thanks so much Eric for all your help!
<<Always welcome, Jean. Be chatting, Eric Russell>>
R2: 120g FOWLR Livestock Plan -
06/29/08
Eric, also wanted to add one more question to my last reply about
the 2 types of macroalgae in my refugium - remembered just after I send
the reply - sorry.
<<No worries my friend…ask away>>
Should I completely remove one or remove the red macroalgae and put it
in my display or put the red in my 20gal for now - the clown may munch
on it.
<<The Gracilaria seems to be more palatable to herbivorous fishes, I
would place this in the display>>
Seems the Chaetomorpha is more favored - so am assuming that would be
the best one to keep.
<<In the refugium, yes…in my opinion. It is quite “user friendly” for
this purpose>>
<<Regards, EricR>>
|
Aquarium Sizing & Such,
Marine Stocking 6/22/08
Hi, I have a kind of silly question to ask. First, I have 10+ years of
freshwater experience, 4 years of brackish and 1+ years of marine. So my
basement looks like a fish store, lol. Anyway I would like to set up a show
tank, preferably about 200 gallons. Currently I only have damsels and clowns in
FOWLR systems. I've learned not to trust coral. The fish I would love to have
would be
1 Dwarf Zebra Lionfish
1 Blue Dot Puffer
1 Powder Brown Tang
1 Metallic Foxface Rabbitfish
3 Banggai Cardinal Fish
1 Coral Beauty Angelfish
Now I have friends who keep fish too but not really of the kind I'm looking for.
One problem is some say yes and some say no. One problem would be that the Blue
Dot Puffer would nip at the Dwarf Lionfish, but one of my friends say that as
long as the puffer is fed, he won't be a problem.
<Not often related to feeding, more along the lines of general
aggression/territorial issues. Depends on the individual personalities of the
fish.>
Is that correct, or do I owe my friend a smack?
<Smack them anyways.>
Another would be that the Lionfish would eat the Banggai Cardinals, but again,
I've heard if there is enough rockwork that they are fast enough to not become
meals, and if the lionfish is fed right, there won't be a problem with him
anyway.
<If they can fit in his mouth the lion will most likely try to eat it, and it
only has to get it right once.>
Is that all correct? I've also looked up how big an aquarium should be, but it
only comes up per fish. If it's all added up, it should be a 350 gallons. That
just seems like it would be too much open space to not enough fish.
<Not really possible in my opinion but I know what you mean.>
So would it be ok to place them in a 200 or 250 gal?
<This would probably work, the tang needs the most room here, at least six feet
of straight line swimming room.>
Is 350 the minimum? I want to move my hobby upstairs, that is why I want a show
tank. I'm just afraid a 350 gal (even a 250) might be too heavy
and bust through the floor.
<Definitely a concern.>
I live in a house built in 1950. How do I test my floors without taking the risk
of just filling up a 350?
<I would call a professional and have them take a look.>
Sorry if this is just a "duh!" question. Thank you for your time.
<Welcome>
<Chris>
Question regarding stocking - Sorry,
this is a long one, FOWLR - 6/20/08
Hello Guys/Gals of "the crew" of my favorite website.
<I'm flattered! Benjamin here today.>
I've been reading up on specific fish for the past 2 weeks straight now,
at least an hour or two a day from your website and I'm still probably
only about halfway through the information that relates to what I'm
proposing to do, simply amazing how much information is compiled here, I
really appreciate the time you guys put into this.
<Thank you. This is a tremendous resource...I am amazed by the
information stored here by my predecessors; continually learning from my
counterparts>
Instead of asking questions every day when I had a new one, I've been
slowly compiling this email and adding or removing questions as I read
through WWM, consequently it has gotten long but I think it's shorter
overall than if I had asked a question every day or two as they popped
up :) And with this method I've been able to take quite a few questions
off the list as I figure out the answer on my own.
<Thanks for your conscientious effort!>
Up until now, I've always kept a reef tank. While it is beautiful, I
find it kind of boring in that nothing really moves around much. I was
fascinated at first and I still am from time to time, but it's time for
me to move on I think. The corals wave in the "breeze" and I have a
couple smaller fish that move around, but nothing big that catches the
eye and moves all around the tank, I want an active tank now.
<Hmm....large reefs can have large, beautiful fish as well...all a
question of space and careful stocking>
A lot of the corals I have are some of the more needy species, I spot
feed them every other day and have to keep my water quality pristine, it
isn't really "work" as I enjoy it, but it does consume quite a bit of my
time, I'd like to cut back. They are only in a 75g tank but I have about
150g total water volume, my sump is actually 2x bigger than my display
tank but only about half full since that's the nature of a sump. Kind of
a shame to waste all that room, but at the same time my corals really
appreciate the stability and the cleanliness that the extra water seems
to provide.
<Indeed...a good situation for all.>
Anyway, I'm just clarifying that I have been keeping high water quality
saltwater tanks going for a couple years now without much incident. I'm
interested now in trying to keep angelfish, singular and maybe plural
depending on what the reply back is.
I recently came into a 180g aquarium, my local pet store was having a
huge sale and it was too good for me to pass up.
<I would love to "come into" a large system...but would need to mortgage
my family to do so!>
I've been wanting to get out of the coral reef setup and into a FOWLR,
this seems to be the perfect opportunity for me. My stocking plans are
this... I'd like to have 3 or 4 Yellow tangs (my wife's favorite fish
bar none),
<I wouldn't go with that many...pushing it. One or two will ultimately
be more enjoyable.>
a Purple tang, and a angelfish, perhaps two. I've seen incredible
aquariums with 10-20 angelfish crammed into them and would love to be
able to do that, but I understand that is like putting 20 murderers into
the same prison cell. Sure, they will survive for a while, but will they
be happy and not fight? Highly unlikely, and you cant turn around
without stepping on someone's toes.
<Bingo...not good long term.>
I'd also like to get two blue throat triggers, male/female pair, I
really like the way triggerfish move and from the research I've done,
the blue throats seem to be pretty mild as far as triggerfish go, not to
mention I really think they are gorgeous fish.
Not really flashy like some species, but they just are a pretty fish,
kind of like how some women look better without makeup. And if I didn't
end up going with the blue throats, I'd probably go with a harlequin
tusk.
<This is possible, but I wouldn't recommend angels AND triggers. I think
you could have a really splendid aquarium with a pair of triggers, some
good aquascaping, and a few medium-small companions>
I'd love a Regal angel instead of the Emperor or Queen but I've
just read too much negative press about them and how they eventually end
up dying even if eating like pigs, I don't want to get attached to a
fish and know it will die within a year or two, so I've decided against
Regals although I sure would like one :)
So that is 8 or 9 fish total in a 180g (220g total water volume) and
probably one or two more sand sifting goby types. I'll have plenty of
live rock (I plan on trying to make my own for the main tank so I can
have it exactly the contours and shapes I want, then I'll put "real"
live rock into the 75g sump, and maybe a piece or two of the real stuff
into the display tank) and good filtration, both biological and
mechanical. I'm planning on ordering a EV-240 with the Mag 12 pump that
will go into the sump and I'll have some Caulerpa and perhaps some other
macro algae type in there as well. I'll probably use two Eheim 1262
pumps to return to the main tank and then I've got 4 of the Koralia size
4 power heads which claim to be around 900 gph but in my thinking aren't
nearly that much.
<You might be surprised...these are good powerheads>
However, I should have a good amount of current and turbulent water.
I have multiple questions... 1) I'd really like an Imperator angelfish.
I also like the Queen angelfish. I realize both of these can reach
12-18" with good water quality/food/time. I fully expect to upgrade to a
300g in the future, but after looking around on the web and seeing what
a LFS has to offer, I would probably be getting either of the fish at
only about 3-4 inches, so I'd assume I could house them in a 180g for a
couple years before needing to move to a bigger tank? Is that correct?
<My advice is never to use a 100 watt fuse in a 150 watt socket, if you
get my drift. Waiting until you have a properly sized system will be
better for both you and the fish.>
And what are my chances of being successful with two of the larger
marine angel species in the same tank?
<In a truly huge tank, maybe. In a 300 or smaller, don't count on it.>
I realize it isn't recommended but if possible I'd like to try it, and
like I say I'm 100% planning on upgrading my tank to around 300g within
2 years or so. And also, any problems with aggression between a
Imperator and/or Queen angel and Yellow/Purple tangs? I realize there
might be some small nipping and snapping to establish dominance between
the tangs and angels, but I assume after everyone settles in there
should be relatively little bickering as the tangs are different in both
body shape and color when compared to the angels?
<If you keep the stocking light, aggression should be limited.>
2) I cant really decide what to do for substrate. I've always had 6" or
more deep sand beds in my reef tanks and sumps, but I don't know what I
want to do with this 180g. That's a lot of bottom space to cover, 24" by
72" at 6" deep would be a LOT of sand and I'm not sure its necessary in
a FOWLR? I'd really rather keep it down to an inch or so, easier to
clean if needed and it isn't displacing so much water.
<Bare bottom would also be a good option, especially in a tank like
this. Of course, if you intend to have sand-sifting gobies I would stick
with 1" of sand tops.>
I figure a 6" deep sand bed in a 180g tank is taking about 30-40 gallons
of water out of my total water volume... I'm having a hard time
stomaching that. I would do a good DSB in my sump regardless of what I
put in my display tank, so I'd have the denitrifying characteristics of
a DSB still in effect.
<Yes, the sump DSB would be effective.>
Would only an inch or so of aragonite sand be OK as a substrate in a
FOWLR of this nature?
<Yes>
I read around on WWM and I didn't really see anything that covered the
substrates angelfish prefer, if any, and also I was curious if you
guys/gals had any experience with Southdown play sand?
<Not a good idea. Play sand is most likely a silica sand- not suitable
for marine use>
Seems like a good product for making a cheap sand bed I can later
"activate" with a much smaller amount of live sand.
<If you're referring to the stuff sold in bags of water, save your
money. Not much more 'live' than the dry stuff- and dry will quickly
become live with live rock, old substrate, etc.>
3) How long does Selcon stay good if refrigerated?
<Most vitamin supplements like this have an effective life of about 6
months *from bottling*>
I'm up in Alaska and shipping is usually more expensive than the product
itself, so I'd like to order a big thing of Selcon if it lasts for a
long time, rather than order small ones once a month.
4) Do I need "good" lighting for a FOWLR with angels? I'd like to stick
to something around 150-200 watts, just typical florescent bulbs, maybe
one actinic blue and one daylight 10k?
<I'd go with more. Your fish don't photosynthesize, but they DO have
circadian rhythms dictated by diurnal/nocturnal cycles. I would go with
maybe double that watts in PC fluorescent>
I don't really want a lot of lighting so that I don't have as much
worries about algae, but if the fish are like people and need lighting
to process vitamin D and what not, I'll go ahead and provide more
significant lighting. I'll probably have about 100 watts for my sump,
but that will mainly be over the refugium area of it so the macro algae
hopefully grows fast.
5) Cleanup crew in an angel tank? What does this consist of? If I don't
go with the Harlequin tusk, I think I'll be able to get away with some
hermit crabs and a lot of snails? My question though is that when I see
beautiful pictures of people's FOWLR tanks, I almost never see any with
snails on the glass. How do they keep the algae down? Or is it just
because they are a FOWLR with minimum lighting that they just don't have
algae problems?
<Snails, or copious glass scraping.>
Ideally, I would like to have some snails and crabs just because they
are "cool" to watch, but I'm just wondering why I never see pictures of
them in most FOWLR tanks? Or is that because the medication people use
in their FOWLR's would most likely kill inverts?
<Medication would also kill the LR and some of the FO in that setup-
medication should always be performed under close supervision in a
quarantine tank.>
6) I've heard that Caulerpa is slightly noxious
<More than slightly>
and not really a good tang/angel food? I just know how easy a time I
have growing Caulerpa since I've always done that in my sumps, I'd
really like to be able to use this macro algae since I'm familiar with
it, but is there better fast growing macro algae that I should be using?
I've been reading about Gracilaria, sounds pretty good but maybe slower
growing than Caulerpa?
If you consider that better than Caulerpa, I'll probably make an order
from IPSF a couple months before I get my first fish and get the stuff
growing and settled in. I'll probably have some damsels in the tank once
the ammonia and nitrates die down, just to have something in there to
feed and keep the biological processes going like I want, so the algae
should have plenty of nutrition to feed off before I get my main fish.
<Consider Chaetomorpha for your sump, and Gracilaria- the trouble with
this is it does grow slowly, and your tang will eat it like crazy>
7) How do people get away with placing multiple yellow tangs in the same
tank? Almost every large tank (150g or more) I see with a yellow tang
doesn't have just one, they have 3 or more but I see recommended on WWM
to only place one per tank. Personally I'd much rather go with a school
of yellows than with just one but everything I read says only place one
in a tank however I'm hoping there is some magic number like 3 or 4 that
I could put in there.
<Not all fish are schoolers. You will note that the tanks with a large
number of fish don't have exploratory, happy fish- they have what looks
like a choreographed traffic problem. Milling all over, never stopping,
never actually going anywhere.>
If not, is there a different type of fish you would recommend that is
both bright and active, but handles a couple of the same species in the
same tank? And hopefully wont fight with a Imperator or Queen angel? Or
I was also thinking, would I be better off keeping maybe 3-4 purple
tangs and no yellows? Would they accept a "schooling" type situation
better than a yellow?
<No>
8) Neon gobies with this stocking plan?
<May wind up as food for a larger species...as is often the case with
cleaner species>
I was hoping to have one or two for their parasite picking abilities
<Limited in aquaria>
and the fact that they are just a funny little fish but I haven't been
able to find anything referring to how yellow/purple tangs and the
angelfish would treat them?
<My recommendation is to look a little more and do some hard decision
making. Ultimately I believe you will be happier with less fish in more
space- resulting in more natural behavior and interesting activity, not
just milling- and your fish certainly will be healthier.>
Thanks ahead of time for the effort that goes into answering this long
email.
<No problem, it's a pleasure!>
It took me almost a week to create it and I'm not in any rush for a
reply back :)
<Good luck with your continued research, project. Feel free to ask
anything you can't find indexed, and check out our forum at
bb.wetwebmedia.com where there are some very helpful folk ready to chat
about aquariums! Benjamin>
Re: Question regarding stocking -
Sorry, this is a long one - 6/20/08
Thanks for the helpful answers.
<No problem!>
Well I knew the answer would be no on the school of yellow tangs but
hey, I had to ask. Also, what is your reasoning behind not mixing
tangs/triggers?
<I think the tangs and the triggers would be fine, I just wouldn't mix
the triggers and the angelfishes>
The triggers I'm hoping to have are pretty peaceful as far as triggers
go, do you think they will just be bullied by the tang?
I was assuming with 180g of space and lots of crevices and caves, they
would be able to co-exist happily.
<I would think so too>
I think I might go with a Red Sea Raccoon butterfly as my yellow fish (I
think my wife will be fine as long as there is a couple yellow
somethings in there) I might even do two or three although I cant really
find anything about them being a schooling type butterfly? Will they be
better off just one to a tank?
<I'll admit right now that butterflies are not my specialty, but I do
believe they would do best one or two to a tank, if you found a pair.>
Then hopefully two blue throat triggers.
Then a Purple tang and either a Emperor angel or a Queen angel. A sand
sifting goby of some sort and then the usual assortment of cleaner
snails and hermits. That will only end up being 6 or so of the larger
fish and one sand sifter, in about 215g total water volume with a sump
and lots of circulation plus plenty of live rock which I'm making myself
so it will have lots of hidey holes and plenty of stuff to explore. I
think in a 180g that will look quite nice and be around 30g of water per
fish. If you don't recommend mixing 2-3 Raccoon butterflies in the same
tank, is there a butterfly that is a nice bright yellow which you do
recommend as more of a schooling type?
With this stocking plan, I would assume I could introduce the Heniochus
first along with the sand sifter, then the triggers, then the Purple
tang (hopefully around 3 inches) and then whatever Pomacanthus I decide
on, either Emperor or Queen? Or should I do the Purple tang last and the
angelfish second to last? I'm hoping both the angel and tang will be
only around 3-4 inches, nothing too big or small.
<I would introduce the angel or triggers (whichever you decided on)
last.
So really, you guys recommend 400 watts of lighting on a 180g tank
that's just a FOWLR?
<Well, lighting is pretty subjective. I recommend that for you because
it really isn't that much light spread out across such a large tank. You
could probably do well though with a lot less watts of T5 light- but
whatever you do, the fish will look better under good light.>
Most of the really alive "LR" part of my tank will be in the sump with
high lighting. I'll just have rockwork in the main tank and it will
slowly become live over time but I don't need anything too amazing, as
you can probably tell I'm trying to avoid algae problems. I'm really
wanting to cut back my lighting if possible from what I have to use now
on my reef tank, 400 watts makes some decent heat and also drives the
electrical bill up when compared to say 4 lights at 54w each which is
what I had planned. If you think the fish will derive a lot of benefit
from it though, then so be it, but if they could get by happily on 200w
I'd much prefer that.
<Well, they don't need to have a tanning bed. Maybe take a look at
lower-watt T5 units?>
Also, what temperature of lights do you think would make this
combination of fish look the best and thrive? I'm not really well versed
as far as lighting goes despite my experience with reef tanks, I've
basically always just used half 10k T-5 VHOs and half actinic blue 460s.
I'm assuming the actinic blue will help the fish look good, but a yellow
fish like the Heniochus might be brighter in appearance if I get some
lights more in the 6-7k range?
<I think a 50/5o mix should be pretty good for a fish only tank>
I just don't like the looks of bare bottom tanks... Maybe I'll just
stick 1/2 an inch or so of sand around the bottom and have a DSB in the
sump only. OR, what do you think about maybe doing some of the crushed
coral substrate, the stuff that is around 1/8th of an inch in size? And
just skip the sand sifter goby?
<If you kept it shallow and vacuum it, that would work.>
I'm just having a hard time coming across aragonite sand up here in
Alaska, the only live sand I can get is
$10 a lb at the LFS I trust and to put even a 1 inch layer across the
bottom would cost me $400, kind of ridiculous.
<Wow! No kidding!>
But the bags of crushed coral (not wet, the dry stuff) are about $30 for
a 30 lb bag, I could
buy $100 of that stuff and it would be enough I think. I'm not CHEAP,
but I hate spending $400 on substrate that the fish don't even care
about.
<Understood!>
Crushed coral would also give me some good buffering ability.
<Actually not as good as the aragonite sand, but a lot better than
play/silica sand.>
I'll definitely get some Chaetomorpha and Gracilaria for the sump and
hopefully be able to feed my Purple tang a lump of fresh algae once a
week or so rather than always eating frozen mixtures and Nori clips.
<I'm sure the fish will appreciate the nice snack!>
Thanks again for all the help.
<No problem! Glad to be of service.>
Grant Gray
<Benjamin>
|
Compatibility and Design Questions Yet
Again…a Lionfish Dominated FOWLR Tank – 06/16/08
Thank you very much for devoting your time, and for so long a time, to
helping out the hobby by providing this service. It's truly inspirational and
greatly appreciated.
<<Thank you…we are very glad to be here/to be of service, Jeff. And you have my
apologies for the tardiness of this reply>>
My questions regard fishes that I don't have for a tank that I haven't yet
purchased.
<<Ah! The dreaming/planning stages are so fun, yes?>>
Every time I think that I've got a tank design settled, I read something on your
site that highlights a misconception or an oversight on my part.
<<But kudos to you for researching beforehand. And do let me suggest you broaden
your searching by looking to other sources along with your research on WWM. As
much as we like what we say here at WWM [grin], it’s best to not limit yourself
to any “one” resource>>
And thank you very much for that.
<<We’re happy to share>>
I'd rather sacrifice time in the research phase than do it in real time with
actual animals.
<<All is precious (even our/your time)…but proper research is a “necessary”
function…and can even be quite enjoyable>>
What I've done is to decide on the fish I want to keep, then work "backwards" to
figure out the system necessary to properly house them.
<<Very good…and maybe this is obvious, but… do also look closely at your fish
selection for compatibility/suitability. I won’t be of much use to design the
system around the fish if they can’t cohabitate>>
A Volitans Lionfish is top of the list.
<<My favorite among the Lionfishes>>
I still vividly remember walking into that fish store as a youngster and
immediately standing in front of a large hex tank with a lion looking directly
at me, fins splayed and being told that it was venomous. Spectacular.
<<Agreed, and if I may share… My enthrallment with the saltwater side of the
hobby began with the site of a tank chock-full of 1” Blue Damsels against a
background of white gravel and bleached-white coral (yes, I hail from the days
of undergravel-filters in saltwater tanks), though I long since learned this is
hardly a feasible (or responsible) display>>
Similarly, I remember seeing pictures in a book in dad's library showing a moray
eel, mouth agape and full of needle-like teeth.
<<Mmm, yes…and I remember many an enjoyable evening watching ‘The Undersea World
of Jacques Cousteau’>>
It sent a shiver down my back. So, I would like one of those too. Since then, I
have learned about and am also drawn to Tuskfish and triggers.
<<Hmm, I hope this is just a list of “favorites”…and not what you plan to keep
“together”>>
Then I read that apparently, the only way to responsibly own a trigger of any
sort, is in a specimen tank.
<<Ah, well…not exactly…in my opinion. There are several species that can often
be kept with other fishes (e.g. – Xanthichthys, Rhinecanthus), but I don’t
generally suggest Triggerfishes with Lionfishes>>
Nuts! Perhaps that will be my (possible) second tank.
<<There ya go>>
Then I read that a moray and a Volitans are not a good match.
<<Depends much on the species of eel I think…but this seems to be the popular
school of thought>>
There goes the moray. Nuts again!
<<Another tank? [grin]>>
Am I okay with the Volitans and the Tuskfish?
<<Should be fine…in a big enough tank>>
I'm now considering a Miniatus Grouper.
<<Mmm…>>
Will that go well with the other two?
<<As long as it isn’t big enough to eat them…can reach about 20” in the wild>>
Finally, I would love to have a Queen Angel, however I'm not going to be able to
turn my living room into an aquarium, and they sound too aggressive for the
other fish on the list anyway. Would a French or Blueface Angel work with this
group?
<<The Blueface can be “touchy” or hard to keep, but given plenty of space, the
French Angel would make a spectacular addition…in my opinion>>
Given this group of four (Volitans, Tuskfish, Miniatus, Angel), will a 240g (72
x 30 x 25) suffice?
<<Yes…though probably “just.” And it will certainly need some good ancillary
filtration>>
I am planning on about 200# of LR,
<<Be careful not to overdue this… While you will certainly need to provide some
caves/dark places for the | |