Tank water is very "dusty", FOWLR maint.    1/8/09
Hello clever crew, i am writing to you today regarding a problem i have with my tank, that has been annoying me for the past 4 days. My tank is a 3 feet tank, i think roughly 60 or so gallons, with about 40kg of live rock. tank has been set up for 3 months, completed the cycle and everything is running smoothly. ammonia, nitrite readings are 0. Not very sure about nitrates, i dun have the test kit, but i have Chaeto growing in my tank.
<Good>
phosphates are 0. tank inhabitants include a yellow wrasse, 2 true Perculas, an orange cheeked sand sifter goby (those hovering types), 2 mated Banggai cardinals (one of them has a mouth full of eggs), a royal Gramma and a coral beauty angelfish. Inverts are 5 turbo snails, 2 Lysmata amboinensis, 4 blue leg hermit crabs and some nuisance crabs in my LR. Recently, my tank has gotten cloudy.
<Unusual...>
It is not a bacteria bloom or an algae bloom, more like suspended particles floating in the water. It has been going on for about 4 days. My livestock all seem healthy and normal, eating like pigs. corals are opening well too. This "dusty" suspension will settle down on my thermometer and magnetic algae cleaner, and will cover it in a layer of very fine particles.... and when water flows past it, it will make the water cloudy again.... My filtering system is working as per normal for past 3 months, so is my protein skimmer. I'm really at my wits end trying to figure this thing out, so am hoping you will help me... It looks at though this suspension will stay with me for awhile... have tried everything to get rid of it. Carbon, water changes, reduced feeding... NOTHING is working =(. Someone told me it was my liverock disintegrating...
<Is...>
sounds unlikely.. but im no expert. I would really appreciate your help regarding this. I have tried forums after forums searching for an answer. You guys are my last resort because i know you are busy and you probably receive tons and tons of e mails a day. Whatever the issue, i hope you guys could help me. I am hoping that my tank will be crystal clear again like before.... Have tried waiting this thing out for 4 days, and its time for me to take some action. Thank you for your time!
<I do think the LR disintegrating is very likely here... through biological processes, e.g. the crabs of nuisance you mention, and so much more. Additionally, in "new" tanks such as yours, a good deal of "equilibrium" is reached by the substrate dissolving... and a good deal does... just from being freshly collected, moved around. At any length, irrespective of "cause" I wouldn't do much to alleviate the dustiness at this point. It will clear of its own accord, and likely in a few days to weeks... You could use a "diatom" or other mechanical filter to help, but... just time going by will do it. Bob Fenner>

Re: dusty water   1/8/09
Thanks for replying me all the way from wherever you are. im from Singapore!
<Ahh! Was just passing through there last month (at the fab Changi Airport)... am back in S. Cal. now, out to Hawaii on the morrow>
nice to meet u Mr. Fenner. a very well known aquarist i am sure. Thanks for the advice and i will just try to wait it out, although 4 days seems a bit long-ish, maybe another few more weeks would not hurt. =) Thanks again, happy new year to you and the rest of your divine gang.
<Thank you. Again, no action or chemical addition needed, suggested on your part... Just patience. BobF>

Re: Dusty tank  1/8/09
Will try to resist touching the tank in the mean time >.< This hobby is addictive ya know.
<Ah yes>
And yes, Changi airport is something isn't it?
<The best airport terminal in the world in my estimation>
Though I'm not really fond of it... it is supposedly "beautiful" Enjoy your time in Hawaii! Are you diving again?
<Yes... and friend, Singaporean Perry Chong has been out t/here with me diving as well>
if so, you are so lucky lols. Get to see those fishes endemic to Hawaii...especially those sexy bandit and potters angels!
<Ahh! You know your fishes>
Alright thanks for everything! Will stop now. Time for my sleep. Will let you know if my tank clears up in a few weeks. All help appreciated.
<Thank you Y. BobF>

Water change issue/pH, FOWLR spg, Crypt... 10/23/08
Hello,
<Hi>
I've been having an issue that I just started to realize recently. I have been conducting water changes, and finding that the next day my pH is rather low. Around 6.5.
<In the tank? Does it stay here consistently?>
However when I test my water prior to putting it into the tank the pH is perfect. I believe this is due to the oxygen being generated by the pump mixing the salt and everything else in the tub prior to me pumping it into the tank. My tank is a 120 FOWLR. I usually conduct 30-50% water changes every 2-3weeks. So basically that's one issue, is how do you think i can go about balancing out my PH more efficiently right around water changes.
<How long are you mixing your water for before adding it to your tank, make sure you allow 24 hours for everything to mix correctly and stabilize. Also do you buffer your water change water prior to adding the salt? See here for more http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marphalk.htm >
What is the ideal salinity for a FOWLR? I do have live rock, and nice purple coral growing. I keep it usually around 1.019-.21
<Too low, close as possible to natural levels, 1.026, the creatures in your tank have spend thousands of generations adapting to this fairly stable parameter.>
What do you guys think about the AquaC Urchin Pro in sump skimmers?
<Love Aqua-C.>
And for a future reference, what's a good way to treat ich without medication?
<The only way I know of is using the tank swap method, where you switch the fish between 2 bare bottom tanks, completely cleaning and drying the tank not in use.>
Or perhaps help prevent it, or stop it from getting worse during beginning stages.
<Quarantine, Quarantine, Quarantine, and have I mentioned Quarantine?>
I've been told to soak food in garlic extract...
<Not useful for ich treatment, or much of anything really, does seem to stimulate a fish's appetite a bit, but so do many other products that also add value to your fish's food. A nice article from Steven Pro http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-08/sp/index.php >
Thanks,
Sam
<Welcome>
<Chris>

2 questions- this time, with a little better grammar, sorry, New Marine Setup 4/16/08
Hi everyone,
<Hello>
I am new to saltwater aquariums, I have an African cichlid tank, that I started two years ago, and is doing unbelievable. So I went out and bought a new 75 gallon set up to start a fowler tank. I started with 50lbs of dead rock and 30 lbs of live rock about 5 weeks ago. I also have a SeaClone protein skimmer,
<Has a dubious reputation.>
two Emperor 400s and three Hydor powerheads. ( two of the stage 4s and one stage 3). In the past week I've lost a maroon clown, 6 line wrasse, and a coral beauty. The water has been at zero for nitrites, nitrates, and ammonia.
<0 nitrates in this case is odd, makes me wonder if your tests are bad, perhaps not getting accurate results on the more problematic ammonia and nitrite tests.>
Ph has been at 8.4 and specific gravity at 1.23. Also temp has been 77-78. I've been doing a 15% water change once a week. any suggestions on why I'm losing fish? Too much too soon?
<Probably, also it is very important to QT fish, marine in particular, since most are wild caught and can bring in some very nasty pathogens.>
I did go out yesterday and get a couple of fish. I bought a lawnmower blenny, bi color Dottyback, an emerald crab, and 10 Nassarius snails.
<Too much too fast again, limit your purchases to 1 fish at a time.>
Also, I do still have one maroon clown, and 20 red leg hermit crabs. I also took off the Emperors. Should my live rock be ready to do enough filtration after 5 weeks to remove the Emperors?
<Doesn't really work this way, the bacteria on the LR will have to increase their numbers to replace those removed when the filters are removed, which is not to say that you should not remove the Emperors, just need to keep an eye on water quality.>
My second question is about the SeaClone. I keep hearing terrible things about the SeaClone. Mine fills up about 1/3 of the cup a week of some really dark skimmate. Is this sufficient?
<Maybe, time will tell, if you have algae problems going forward you will know it is not sufficient.>
Should I really still look into a Remora. I plan on getting one anyway, just want to know I can get away with the SeaClone for a little longer.
<The Remora is a big step up in my opinion, and worth it as soon as possible.>
And I'm sorry, just one more question. I'm planning stocking this tank with a flame angel, Kole tang, and was hoping for a Sharpnose puffer. Will this work in a 75 gallon?
<Probably, I'm not too big on tangs in a 75G, but it should be ok.>
If so, could I also add a coral beauty, or will that not work with the flame angel?
<Not a good idea to mix Centropyge angels.>
The Kole tang wasn't my first choice for a tang, but it doesn't get too large. is there any other tangs I can put in a 75 gallon tank instead?
<Some would say a yellow tang would be alright, although I would personally pass on this.>
Same goes with the puffer. Any other puffers that i can put into a 75 gallon?
<See here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tobies.htm .>
Thanks for your help, it will be greatly appreciated.
Marc
<Welcome>
<Chris>

Enjoying success and a few questions
FOWLR Livestock Selection and Nitrate 2/17/08
Bob,
<Scott V. with you tonight.>
I am finally on the other side of the process in getting my main tank situated after several years of learning and using the right techniques. I now have the livestock that I've wanted to put in there and it appears to be parasite free.
<Great to hear!>
Most recently I had a case of saltwater ich and after letting the tank run fallow for nearly six weeks I returned the livestock only to have them show signs of infection. I decided I would install a UV filter (Vecton, per your advice) and it seemed to alleviate the problem almost immediately. It has been about 3 or 4 weeks with no symptoms showing. And this with a powder blue tang (which I was rather apprehensive about even trying to keep).
<And for good reason.>
I feel my FOWLR is fully stocked with fish now and I am finally enjoying the fruits of lots of labor!
<Sorry to say, but the labor never seems to end!>
I tell you all this to say thank you to you and your helpful staff for all the information on your site and help with my questions. It is invaluable to a marine fish keeper. I would also like to seek some advice going forward.
<Very welcome, we are all more than happy to help out.>
Here is my tank that I've had running about 7 years now:
90 gal with plenty of live rock
2-3" aragonite substrate
Eheim canister filter
<Canisters are known to contribute to high nitrate, more on this below.>
Remora skimmer
Vecton 600 UV filter
1 submerged power head
Livestock:
lunar wrasse
passer angel
powder blue tang
<Your tank is too small for the long term survival of this Tang or Angel.>
arc eye hawk fish
Toby-type puffer
a few scarlet hermit crabs
<Not for long with some of the fish on your list.>
All the fish are healthy and eating well (including the PB tang who is thankfully an aggressive eater) and aside from a little bit of aggression towards each other, everyone one is happy. They all have enough attitude to rebuff one another.
<And this will grow as they do.>
With the addition of the angel and tang, I of course now have to feed more.
<No doubt.>
Nitrates are higher as a result, about 60 - 80ppm on average. I am doing water changes regularly. I'd like to know what can be done with this system to naturally keep nitrates down and clean up detritus and any uneaten food.
<Increased circulation and the addition of a refugium will help the situation. You will still be doing many large water changes to keep up.>
The scarlet hermits seem to fair well and I was thinking of adding a few more and trying a few snails.
<Not with the Wrasse/Puffer.>
Would adding a brittle star be advisable? (I know not the green one). I would like to add a little more beneficial life to the system for aesthetics and utility.
<You could, but with little to no effect on the nitrate situation.>
As for the substrate, I have always done regular vacuuming with the water changes and it just doesn't seem very "live", nothing visible anyway. It is the 1-2mm type aragonite. Is there anything more I can do there outside of replacing it all to sustain some life and benefit the system? I was thinking maybe if I don't vacuum as much or add a bag of live sand...
<I would add more sand, to increase to 4”+ to aid with processing the nitrate. Your above statement is correct in that you will want to leave the sand be alone more than constantly vacuuming. A periodic surface agitation is all it should need at most, but I suspect your fish, the Wrasse in particular aids in that. The increased circulation will help keep the detritus from accumulating in the sandbed.>
What else can I do to optimize the system and add a little more diversity?
<Adding more sand, creating a true DSB and giving it time to colonize from your rock will increase the diversity immensely. The refugium will have the same and many other positive effects; it is highly recommended you consider its addition. Also, consider either removing the canister filter (it is not absolutely necessary with the live rock), or at the very least cleaning it frequently (at least weekly). The canister filters can easily and quickly become detritus traps and in turn nitrate producers.>
Thanks,
Tim
<Welcome, you need to do some more research in regard to what is in your tank and what it takes to keep them alive and well. I have included some links of pertinent reading to start you out. Good luck, Scott V.>
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/thalassoma.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/puffcareinfo.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/angels/pomacanthus/zonipectus.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marcanfltfaq3.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm

FOWLR question. Carbon, Purple Up and System Size 2/13/08
I have a quick question regarding my aquarium. I have a saltwater setup 30 gal. that has 1 puffer in it,
<What type of puffer? The volume of your tank is pushing the limits for even the smallest species.>
no other live stock, I recently added 30 lbs of live rock that I got from another aquarist that had it in a 5 yr old reef setup. I have a Bak Pak skimmer a HOT magnum 250 hang on canister and a Via Aqua pump for circulation. Do I still need to use carbon all the time or only once or twice a month? (this was suggested by someone at the LFS),
<You can do either, but it is not necessary with frequent water changes. See the link below.>
second since I only have the one fish in there, he is about 3 inches long right now, do I need to add anything to keep the live rock up?
<No, it will be fine.>
And last is it ok to use something like Purple up to keep the coralline algae up?
<No, I would supplement via water changes in this small of a system. With all in one concoctions such as Purple Up you do not know what exactly you are adding in relation to what your water tests, alk/calcium being the main components here.>
As always thanks for the advice.
Terry
<Welcome, good luck, Scott V.>
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwfiltrmedart.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/puffers.htm and related FAQ's

Mini cycle after aquarium upgrade   11/15/07
<Hello Dan>
First and foremost I'd like to thank you and your team for your hard work and dedication. I am amazed and inspired by the level of knowledge and expertise you share with the community.
<Thank you from the whole crew!!!>
I've recently upgraded my established, healthy FOWLR 40gallon breeder to a 90 gallon oceanic setup. My plan is to do fish and some corals. I staged the move from one tank to the next over a 2 week period, beginning with introducing about 30lbs of live sand along with 40lbs of cured LR. I filled about 75% of the tank with new RODI filtered water and mixed salt with no livestock. Water circulated (about 500-600 gph) for 4-5 days at 77 degrees. I did not do any water testing during that time. On day 5 I did water tests - ammonia was less than .20 , nitrite and nitrate were 0. Salinity was 1.023, temp 78, ph 8.2. KH was 125. Calcium was a little higher than normal (I had buffered the day before).
I began transferring the remaining LR and about 40% of my existing sand from the old tank. Fish were in a holding tank with water from the old tank.
This past Sunday I did the final transfer of live stock - 4 fish and a few inverts.
Monday am- Ammonia was .25 -- late Monday pm it was .30 - nitrites and nitrates were both 0. Tuesday Ammonia was just about the same, maybe .35-.40 other parameters were fine. (ph, salinity, temp, KH, ca, etc)
I mixed 50 gallons of salt water and began to prepare for the inevitable 50% water change if the ammonia didn't level out...However to my surprise -
Tuesday - Ammonia stayed the same, along with all other parameters. Late Tuesday PM, Ammonia began to drop back to .25
Today (Wed) Ammonia is almost 0 again. Funny thing is Nitrate and Nitrites are at 0 as well.
Question - can a "partial" cycle take place without a true spike in ammonia and rise in nitrites before leveling out?
<ANSWER- YES. Basically, you already had sufficient numbers of nitrifying bacteria present. Your transfer included new sand, new rock, and your "bio-load" changed. The bacteria needed to catch up to the new demand of your new system by colonizing new surfaces. There is a "mini cycle" that lasts between 72 hours and a week for these bacteria to colonize. After this time frame you should begin to have zero readings on your test kits. (This is normal) However, the system is still maturing and bacteria are still adjusting to your maintenance schedules and so forth.>
I have 2 test kits and tested everything except ammonia with both measures.
Am I in the safe zone? I was anticipating much more of a cycle
<You are in the "safe" zone. I recommend that you wait another 30 days before you begin to purchase new stock or add more corals as the new system stabilizes. Continue testing and make water changes as necessary.
On another note, when hobbyist switch from FOWLR to reef tanks or corals they are unaware of how important the control of phosphates are. Please purchase a good phosphate test kit and keep this level as low as possible with water changes and the use of an Iron Oxide resin. Enjoy your new tank-Rich...aka...Mr. Firemouth>

Replacing substrate... just reading  9//15/07
Hi there!
<Jay>
I have had my 55 gallon FOWLR setup for about 2.5 years now. I have a Foxface, coral beauty, 3.5 in Picasso, and a small Heniochus.
<Yikes... need more room>
Filtration is a Rena xp3, Emperor 280, and a CPR Bak Pak 2 protein skimmer. I have never had a problem with my water chemistry, but recently have been seeing a decline in my pH, it is staying at about 7.8. Water changes don't seem to help for more than a couple of days and now I am wondering if maybe its time to replace the crushed coral?
<Likely would help>
I was thinking of going with live sand, but I am unclear with the depth requirements, and the process involved with replacing the old stuff. Does
sand seem like a good option for my system, or should I stick with the cc?
<All this covered here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/index.htm
scroll down to the brown tray... Substrates>
If sand is a go, how deep should it be? Would it be ok to make the change in one day? Since I'm assuming that my filters and live rock are doing the majority of the biological work, and the crushed coral is just storing detritus...Will this
be to stressful for the system and fish? Thanks for all the help and advice!
Myself and the fish appreciate it!!
Jay
<Read on my friend, read on. Bob Fenner>

Water Changes, FOWLR maint., reading   8/30/07
Hi crew
I have a 180 gallon FOWLR marine tank with a fairly heavy fish load. I was wondering what is the recommended percentage water change per week or month?
<Depending on other gear mostly, 10 to 20 per... Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Filter Cleaning Schedule - 04/28/07
Hello crew,
<<Howdy Jared>>
I have a 75 FOWLR. 65 lbs live rock, live sand, Magnum 350, Prizm skimmer.....yea yea I know I need to upgrade,
<<Indeed>>
maybe you can give me a hint as to what kind of skimmer I should get for under $200?
<<That's an easy one...the 'AquaC Remora'...though for just a “few” bucks over $200 you can get the 'AquaC Remora Pro' and get a bit more "fudge factor">>
I also run a Emperor 280 bio-wheel filter.
<<Mmm, this is "ok"...but I think a fluidized-bed filter would serve better>>
I have 2 black tail damsels, 2 cleaner shrimp, 6 turbo snails, and a yellow tang.
<<Wow, certainly not overstocked...goodonya mate>>
The tank has been running for 3 months and my question is how should I clean the two filters to ensure I don't end up with nitrate build up?
<<Do you mean due to the loss of beneficial bacteria from the cleaning?  Honestly, with the live rock/sand and your current stocking level...this isn't an issue>>
How often should I do this cleaning?
<<The canister filter should be cleaned weekly...the bio-wheel is a bit more complicated to predict.  I do think these "wheels” lose efficiency over time through clogging of the material, but how often this needs attention will vary from tank to tank.  Were this me, I would purchase a "spare" wheel and swap these out (twice a year), cleaning the "used" wheel in anticipation of the next swap.  By placing the new/cleaned wheel in the sump/overflow/etc a few days before needed, the bacteria will get a head start and be able to ramp-up quickly once placed in the filter>>
How often should I change out the carbon in the Magnum?  
<<At least monthly>>
Thanks for all your help,
Jared
<<Happy to assist.  Regards, EricR>>

Re: Filter Cleaning Schedule - 04/29/07
I have a couple questions regarding your reply.
<<Ok>>
What is a fluidized-bed filter?
<<Here's a good explanation copied from the Net:  "Fluidized bed filter is a device that accomplishes biological filtration through growth of nitrifying bacteria on a mass of sand or tiny spheres of synthetic materials suspended in a current of water passing through it. Although similar in principle to other types of biological filtration systems, this method allows for maximum carrying capacity while minimizing the size of the filter itself."  
As explained, the media is in a "fluidized" state which prevents channeling/clogging...I also feel this type biological filter is capable of rapids "adjustments" allowing it to keep pace with shifting bio-loads>>
When I clean the filter pads do I just move them around in some water from a water change?
<<You can, though I feel this is not a very effective cleaning method...I prefer to do a better job at the sink under the tap>>
I'm afraid I will re-cycle my tank?
<<By cleaning your canister filter once a week?...no...not with the other biological filtration you stated you have on/in your system (live rock, live sand, Bio-Wheel)>>
Thanks,
Jared
<<Regards, EricR>>

R2: Filter Cleaning Schedule - 04/30/07
You said to clean my filter pad under the tap?
<<Is what I do, yes>>
Won't that get chlorine in my filter media?
<<Not in any quantity to be concerned with.  EricR>>

R3: Filter Cleaning Schedule - 04/30/07
Sorry I am wearing you guys out but what is the best fluidized-bed filter I can get for a decent price?
<<Mmm yes, well, they all seem rather pricey to me considering the simplicity of function...check out the Rainbow Lifeguard units.  Eric Russell>>

Water and algae mystery   12/27/06
Happy Holidays!!
<And to you and yours>
Love the website and find it very very helpful!!!  I do have a question that I cant seem to find the exact answer to.
I have what started as a fish only tank.  We were doing really well with it until I decided to add 60 lbs of live rock (75 gallon tank).  After that addition ALL our levels spiked up (uncured rock) and despite all our efforts (water changes) we lost our Foxface.
<Yikes... best to cure elsewhere...>
  Since then our levels are slowly decreasing.  I think about a month and the rock will be fully cured and our levels will be back  to zero.  Other than the live rock we also got an RO unit and started our water changes with RO water.
<Good>
Prior to this we were using tap water that was treated to remove the metals etc.  Is it to
<too>
late with the water or will the RO water make a difference over time?
<It will>
We get nasty brown hair algae that grows on the walls and crushed coral.  What can we do to reduce the micro algae?
<Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/avoidingalgaeproblesm.htm
and the linked files where you lead yourself>
I know we can get snails and such but we are timid to put anything into the water right now for fear of guaranteed death.
<You are wise here>
are the snails hardy?
<Mmm, can be... but generally not in this circumstance>
We are also starting to get these pink 'buds' that are popping up on some LR and Tonga branch.  It doest look like coralline, we have that covering a couple rocks.  Its a mystery...any idea?
<All sorts>
mystery!!!!  A couple days ago, out of a piece of LR, came crawling what appears to be a starfish.. however it has 6 points not 5 and is currently surviving some pretty poor conditions so I don't think it is a starfish that's sold in stores?
<Maybe... likely one that is not though...>
  Any idea what this is?  Its white, small has 6 points and a few spots on its back.?
<Perhaps an Asterina species... see WWM, the Net...>
eager to learn
Aaron
<A good trait, direction. Bob Fenner>

The proper way to maintain FOWLR setup   12/18/06
Hello WWM crew,
<Julia/Chivan>
I was able to find useful information on this site to setup my FOWLR tank.  My next step is to learn how to properly maintain it. I have been searching for information on how to properly maintain a FOWLR setup, but couldn't find what I am looking for.
<Thank you for this prompting... will add this "SubFAQs" category for the other "twixt general and reef" type marine set-ups>
  It would be great if you could give me some advice.
<Okay>
I am a newbie to saltwater with less than 6 months in this hobby.  I have a 300g tank with 300 lbs of LR and 3 inches live sand.
<Wow! You've dived right in!>
  It is connected to a 30g sump (to house a in-sump Euro-Reef skimmer) and a 40g refugium.  I have a 6" BlueLine trigger, 6" Emperor Angel, 5" red sea sailfin tang, and a 4" gold stripe maroon clown ( With a couple of Anemones for the clown to nest in) .  
<Can be done in a system of this size/volume>
For maintenance, I perform 10% water change every 2 weeks, using RO/DI water with Instant Ocean Reef Crystal salt mix at SG=1.025.   During the first 3 months, I tested for Ammonia and Nitrite weekly and they are always zero.  For some reasons, my setup never experienced the new tank setup cycle.
<Large systems... with much established biota in/on their substrates... often do>
The pH is around 7.9 for the past 6 months.
<Mmm, okay... there are means... to raise/elevate this... if you so desire>
Last week, I found a forum called Reef Central at http://reefcentral.com .
<Ah, yes... a BB with many fine people, much good input... but a BB just the same... a "community" of a mix of knowledge, ability levels... a good idea to "sift" through what is presented, question>
Some of the members on that site informed me that my pH is too low and suggested that I also need to perform tests for Alkalinity and Calcium.  
<A good idea>
And start adding pH buffer ( Baking Soda )
<Mmm, not this... sodium bicarbonate alone will not do...>
to raise pH to 8.3.
So I went to WWM site searching for the procedure on how to maintain a FOWLR setup:  What tests do I need to perform?
<Mmm... there are test kits... discussed on WWM... I'd look to Salifert, Hach, LaMotte brands...>
What additives I must add
on a regular basis as part of the FOWLR maintenance?
<... time to make a few statements here... Please don't "lose sight" of what you're trying to acheive... the "woods through the trees" as it were... There are ways/means of adjusting, stabilizing water chemistry and physics... some much more worthwhile than others... You can/could use commercial products (liquid and/or dried... e.g. B-Ionic, SeaChem's fine line...), employ a device like a calcium reactor (of various makes/designs)... However... best to do this with a thorough understanding of what is going on, will go on in your system... and SLOWLY, through the new water changes... likely the ongoing "die-off" of a bit of your LR and to a smaller extent LS accounts for the apparent 'low' pH here... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/watrqualmar.htm
and the linked files at top... and/or possibly better, invest your time in reading a "complete" marine aquarium reference work... I suggest Hans Baensch's fine tomes here>
Etc.  After hours of searching, I still couldn't find what I need.  Is there an article on FOWLR maintenance covering all the details?
<Mmm, not just one, or a series... As time has gone by, I have split up the incoming into (what I consider) logical, chronological categories... this/these will be added>
Or may be what I have been doing is good enough?
<Ah, yes... Finally. The regular water changes with IO salt will indeed slowly, imperceptibly raise your pH here...>
Many Thanks and Best Regards,
Julia.
<Best to go slow... be tentative, querulous... Bob Fenner>

New 120 FOWLR, Hawaii. New Set-Up Questions 10/5/06
*** I throw ambrosia and pomegranates at all of you ***
<Well thank you, and maybe some "Tiny Bubbles"?>
Well I must say that I am impressed by the immense amount of help that you gentlemen offer on a daily basis.  We are forever in your debt.  So there's a well deserved, "Good Job"
*** Then and Now ***
I maintained a reef tank in Seattle for a number of years, moved to Oahu
<Lucky you!>
two years ago, and have since decided to allow myself to become addicted again.
Unfortunately we are very legally limited to coral in our tanks in Hawaii, I think we can only have a couple of Zoanthids (still working with DLNR for a research permit), so I am going for the FOWLR setup and still get to watch the critters.
*** What I have done ***
I have been planning the tank for about a month now, and I am quite thankful for your site.  I have a 120 set up, a LS1-150 system has been ordered from Jeff at Lifereef (great guy), and I have the Current USA PC's at about 260 watts.  So tank, lights, heater and small powerhead and that's it right now.
System has been up for a week, I am using Seawater from a State fishery nearby (plethora of Salifert test kits on the way) and first "round" of LR at about 70lbs added 5 days ago.  I scrubbed the rock (I know the jury is still out on that one). I have one mediocre test kit for ammonia until the rest arrive.  Ammonia currently at 0.2, SG 1.028 (little high, but successful aquarists here swear to it for 30 years) and temp at 79-80 while curing the rock.  I have added 30ml each part of C-balance for the first time today. No other additives or water changes yet.  I had the lights on for one cycle to ensure the timers were set up correctly.
*** My intentions ***
I will leave the lights off.  Water changes before ammonia reaches 1.0.  I will scrub and add live rock in stages.  The Filtration system (no media) should be here at the end of October, about 20 days from now, so unfortunately no skimmer for now.  After the filtration is installed I will wait two weeks and add live sand (4" bed). Then hopefully add the first resident.
*** My Questions ***
Leave lights on while curing rock?
<No, you will be inviting nuisance algae with the high level of nutrients now present in your tank.>
Dose the C-balance now, or wait until Cured?
<I'd wait till the rock is cured.>
Might have a pistol shrimp (got a clicking sound anyway), if bad, now what?
<Not bad, interesting if a shrimp goby goes along with it.  Have same myself.>
Is this creating an environment for immense Coralline?
<No, not immense.  I find "Purple Up" by CaribSea is great for coralline growth, and also maintains my calcium level, iodine, strontium, magnesium, and carbonate levels all in one bottle.  Check it out.>
Is dosing Kalk with the C-balance that beneficial? (precipitate phosphates?) (coralline growth?)
<Personally, I do not like two part mixes.  Whenever I've tried these, I got an imbalance.  Always had to go out and buy another bottle of the calcium part.  Some companies only sell part 1 and 2 together, can't buy just one bottle.  Next thing you know, you've got a gazillion bottles of the alkalinity part.>
Should I see a normal cycle using ocean rock and water? I assume yes because of the 0.2 now.
<Really depends on where the water is drawn from.  May have excessive nutrients present.
The 0.2 reading is coming from the live rock curing process.  Do read our articles on live rock curing, here on the WWM.>
What am I not thinking of? (most important, I know I am forgetting something)
<Wallet?  Sounds OK so far, Don.  James (Salty Dog)>
Thank you for sharing your time and knowledge with us all, I am sure you have saved many animals through your efforts.
Very Respectfully,
Don Williams

Re: After Cycle Water Parameters, New Tank Setup Part II 6/30/06     
Hello
<Hi again>
I asked last night that I thought my tank cycled and receive an answer from Chris, so thank you Chris and the Gang.
<Welcome.>
I will make ya'll some brownies with nuts !!!!
<Back off Bob, those brownies are mine!!!> <<Can I at least lick the plate? RMF>>
55 gal going to be FOWLR & Inverts
I use tap water and I use Tetra Aqua Safe -
I tested my tap water everything was normal except for high phosphate <Need to find the source of the Phosphates, probably coming from your tap water.  You may need to switch to RO/DI water to prevent your aquarium from becoming an algae sanctuary.>
No ammonia ~ No nitrates ~ No nitrates
(No big LFS close I live near the Outer Banks you would think there would be tons of them)
I use Instant Ocean Salt Mix
I do use ph 8.2
Millennium 3000 Power Filter
Penguin 170 Bio Wheel
2 Aqua Tech Power Head ( 170 gph)
Sea Clone 100 Protein Skimmer -  (I know - I know .....)
Total gph 865
I use the Saltwater Master Liquid Test Kit from API
Sea Chem Phosphate and Iodine Test Kit
Hagen Calcium Test Kit
Red Sea Alkalinity Test Kit
I am using 18 inch 15w Full Spectrum Aqua Ray bulbs
Umm not sure what else you need to know on the mechanicals.
<Think that covers it all.>
We have 1 1/2 inches of sugar fine oolite sand
I received 20 lbs of uncured Caribbean (Haitian) live rock from e tropicals that I used to cycle my tank
No Critters or fish in the aquarium  - just the live rock
Sorry this is so long, but wanted you to know what I do and do not have.
Now that I have told ya'll all of that here is my question (finally) <Phew>
Ok, here is the water parameters after a 25 % water change - since it appears to have cycled: (I mixed the water up on Tuesday and had it a 32 gal container with a power head) <Good method>
Temp   78
Specific Gravity  1.024
ph     8.2
Alkalinity    3.6
Calcium     I think 400   - HE seems to say 320 to 400 (I need an easier test kit  - the instructions disagree with each other -  one sentence says dark purple and the next sentence says violet -geesh) <Fun isn't it>
Iodine    0.06
Ammonia  0
Nitrite       0
Nitrate      10
Phosphate  3.0
Does this seem to be the "average normal " parameters? Except for the phosphate - I have some "Phos - Zorb" and I also have some "C -Balance" with parts A & B
<Yes, except for the phosphate, that’s really high.>
I have NOT added anything to the aquarium yet
<Good>
Any Ideas?
I have searched and searched in the forum and I am going cross-eyed and I need more coffee.
<Everything seems fine except for the phosphate.  I wouldn't add anything to the tank you have to actively feed until you get those under control.  It will just add even more fuel for the algae.  The phosphate sponge is not a good long term solution.  Best bet is to get and RO/DI unit or buy RO/DI water.  I've personally had great experiences with www.airwaterice.com for my RO/DI.  The money spent up front will save it in the long run over buying RO/DI water.>
Thanks in advance
Kathleen
<Chris>      

Red algae, snail and crab death  - 04/16/06
Hello there, and thanks for the excellent and informative site.  
<Hi there and thank you for the kind words.>
I am a little perplexed, so I ask you...  I have a 37 FOWLR tank, with about 30 lbs of rock.  The tank has been up and running for about a year, where I have gotten very nice growths of coralline algae on my rocks and glass (thanks to a 2x65w compact florescent hood, I assume) and have had no fish loss whatsoever.
<That’s great!>
However, within the last three weeks, I have developed a serious case of red carpet algae, and have recently noticed all of my snails and hermit crabs are no more...  I had about 5 Turbos and about 6 hermits.
<Ak what a bummer! Sorry to hear that.>
My 5 peppermint shrimp, my niger trigger, purple tang, maroon clown and hippo tang are all fine, along with a Mithrax crab, a cucumber and two sand sifting stars.
Yikes….. that is quite a line up you have in that 37 gallon. I hate to be the one to break the news to you but your tank is much to small for it’s inhabitants. I am surprised you have not had any problems up until now. I hope you have plans for a much larger tank in the very near future. Your Niger can get to be 18” in the wild, sorry I am not sure of it’s size in captivity but for sure much to big for a 37g.  Tangs need a minimum of  50 gallons or double depending on who you read.>
My water reads: pH 8.3, no detectable ammonia, no detectable nitrite, however I have 20 ppm nitrate.
<Amazing considering the stocking density.>
I'm heading to the store to buy 15 gals of seawater-in-a-jug (which I use exclusively) and try and siphon out as much of the red stuff as I can.
< A good place to start.>
Soooo, would 20 ppm nitrates kill my snails and hermits, while leaving everything else alive?  
<Nope. There is info on nitrates here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm .>
And what on earth could cause the red algae outbreak?
< An accumulation of excess nutrients for starters. Your 37 gallon tank is much to small for the fish it is currently housing. Please do have a look at the following article…. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm, for just about all you need to know and more on the infamous Cyano.>
Nothing has changed, I feed the same amount I have for the past year, but never had this stuff.  I am afraid it's killing the great crop of coralline algae under it!  Thanks, and Happy Easter (if appropriate).
<You’ re most welcome and Happy Easter to you as well, Leslie.>

Coralline Growth In A FOWLR - 03/30/06
I have a 180 gallon FOWLR tank, in your opinion is it worth the expense of a calcium reactor to enhance coralline growth on the live rock (I have about 200lbs of live rock)?  If not, are there alternatives you suggest.  
<<Simple water changes should be enough to maintain calcium/alkalinity/magnesium/et al in this system.  To boost coralline growth I would dose Seachem's "Reef Calcium" for a few months as per the manufacturer's recommendation.  This is a polygluconate complexed form of calcium that some have reported induces excellent coralline growth.>>
D'Wayne
<<Regards, EricR>>

Ready to fire up the 180!  1/1/06
Hello Crew,
I finally have my 180 waiting on it's stand to be plumbed and cycled for the
transfer of my fish from my 55g FOWLR. I think I have this pretty well  
planned out, but I would like your input before I make the final decisions. My  180
came with two internal overflows with a 2" and 2 3/4 " hole drilled in  the
bottom of each. I have an empty 55 gallon tank that I want to put underneath  
the 180. I purchased an Aqua C EV240 skimmer with a mag 12 pump to put inside  
the 55, and two mag 9 pumps to move the water back up to the 180. I'll also
put  a heater in the bottom tank.
I will be purchasing aprox. 130lbs of live rock to put in the 180 to go  
along with about 20 to 30lbs that is already in my 55 that has been running for  a
little over a year. I want to put about 2 to 3 inches of sand in the tank.
<Better less than one or more than four...>
And I have a Coralife 6 foot fluorescent with the lunar lites for night viewing. The  fish that will be transferred are :
  1 Purple Tang
  1 Hippo Tang
  1 Foxface
  1 Royal Gramma
  1 Orchid Dottyback
  1 Clown Fish
  1 6 Line Wrasse
  1 Cherub Angel
  along with a cleaner shrimp and 3 feather dusters
My questions are: should I have some form of mechanical, i.e. charcoal, filtration ; if so any recommendations ;
<I would use carbon occasionally... like a unit of Chemipure... once a month... switch out with the older/est of two present...>
what else should I have in the 55  gallon sump to "filter" the water;
<... many choices... gone over on WWM... a DSB, LR, Macro-algae...>
am I missing any critical parts; and can I  add an Emperor or Queen Angel to the mix without creating overcrowding in the  180?
<I'd wait a few months... after the new live rock is cured...>
I am dying to get it running but want to do it right. Thanks for  your help.
<Am feeling like a fortune cookie insert writer here... "Your patience (between the sheets) will be rewarded with continuing good prospects". Bob Fenner>

Just A Few Questions - 12/22/05
Hi-
<<Hello>>
First, my marine life and I thank you all for everything you do.  You have saved many lives.
<<You're very welcome.>>
I have a few questions that I have been collecting for some time and would appreciate a little direction.  
<<I shall make an attempt to assist.>>
The basics: I have a 55 gallon FOWLR plus inverts that is fully stocked (to an appropriate level).
<<I hope so <G>. >>
It has been running for about nine months.  I have canister filtration, 100 lbs of live rock, an Aqua-C Remora skimmer and 96W of 50/50 CF lighting. Ammonia and Nitrite are 0, pH 8.2, Nitrates average 20-30 ppm.
<<ok>>   
I would like to work on lowering the nitrate level.
<<Good idea>>
With the 100 lbs. of live rock, would I gain any advantage by removing the ceramic bio-rings from my canister filter?
<<I think you would, yes.  But just as/more important, this filter needs to be cleaned on a weekly basis.>>
The other trays contain mechanical media, Chemi-Pure and carbon.
<<Ah, good...an opportunity to add Polyfilter to the mix then!>>
Should that empty tray be filled with something that might also help?
<<Yes, the Polyfilter.>>
I have stepped-up the frequency of water changes (RO/DI water) and filter cleanings to weekly.
<<Always good>>   
Also, my wife was recently being "helpful" by feeding flake during the day.  The food was added too fast for the fish to eat and I caught on after a few days feeding.
<<Sounds like some "training" is in order.>>
At the same time, I cleaned the lighting fixture, bulbs and reflector, effectively bumping the output.  I now have traces of red Cyanobacteria where the light hits strongest.  Will temporarily cutting back lighting time, along with the water changes resolve this issue?
<<I doubt it...best to determine the true cause.  An increase in water flow might be helpful.>>   
I currently have about 2" crushed coral for substrate.  I would like to cut this back to 1" or less as you recommend.  However, I have a Fromia star on hold at the LFS and want to be sure he has enough to scavenge on.  Competitors include a tiger striped serpent star, about 4 Nassarius snails and a small group of crabs (10 blue-leg, 2 scarlet reef, 1 sally lightfoot and 1 emerald).  Is this a good move?  Should I expect him to eat mainly on the live rock, or is the substrate a major food source?
<<The live rock will provide this...and kudos to you for going with the Fromia specie as opposed to the much less hardy/suitable Linckia specie.>>
Finally, I will be going on a cruise to St. Thomas, Dominica, Aruba and Barbados in a couple of weeks.  I don't dive (or swim, for that matter) but want to take full advantage of this marine-viewing opportunity.  I am doing a helmet dive and glass bottom boat, but was wondering if there was some part of the trade that is accessible to the public.  Can a tourist go where the local catch is brought and offered to wholesalers, local hobbyists, etc.. and how would I go about finding this?
<<I would think this to be difficult without some type of "connection", but I honestly don't know.  If Bob sees this he should have a better insight.>> <As you state Eric... not easily done... You can catch, transport some (allowed) live material "for personal use"... I would move this in your checked in luggage... double, triple-bagged. Some ideas re capture tools, techniques and shipping wild-caught marines are archived in Articles, FAQs files on WWM. RMF>
Sorry for the length, but I want to respect your time as much as possible.
<<No worries mate...and "thank you" for the consideration.>>  
Thanks again.
<<Regards, EricR>>

Nutcase 101 - 7/31/05
Dear Sir or Madam, to all it my concern etc.
<Hi friend, Ali here...>
My 45 gallon FOWLR is about to crash, it includes many  Invertebrates, and a variety of fishes.
<Very unfortunate>
I can no longer care for or  maintain this system.  My
question is do you think it prudent for me to  drain the tank remove the fish, and suffocate them under a bed pillow?  And  should I bury the inverts in my backyard to puzzle archeologists for years to  come?
<Take your animals to the local fish store. Offer them a few dollars for their assistance in providing a good home for your animals.>
Thank you for your time, Frank
<No problem Frank, I hope some time in the rehab institution will be enough to give you a chance to read Fenner's Conscientious Marine Aquarist. I'm quite sure if you behave well they will allow a couple hours per day of internet activity. Although it can be hard at first, try not to blow it all on plastic mannequin midget porn sites and do your best to invest just a fraction of it towards aquatic awareness. Perhaps, your next aquarium be will be a success.>

Magnesium In A FOWLR - 07/13/05
Hello,
<<Hi>>
I was just reading the article on alkalinity and a Kalkwasser stirrer. It mentions the magnesium level should be 3x that of the calcium level.
<<Yes...about.>>
I use natural seawater.  So I need to find a magnesium test kit and start adding magnesium right?
<<Not necessarily.>>
I test for nitrates, kH, ca, ph, nitrites, ammonia, phosphates, salinity.
<<ok>>
Is there anything else I should be worrying about in my FOWLR tank as magnesium is a new one to me?
<<I doubt you need to worry about the magnesium, really.  As this is a FOWLR tank, you don't have a large quantity of calcifying organisms (e.g. - SPS/LPS corals).  If you are applying frequent partial water changes you're likely supplying all the magnesium this tank needs.>>
I supplement trace elements as well.
<<Another waste of money in my opinion.  Again, the water changes will supply.>>
Many Thanks,
James.
<<Regards, Eric R.>>

Salinity\sg
Hello,
<Hi there>
I was just reading the article on salinity. It says many people keep it at 1.017 to 1.020 for fish only systems. I have FOWLR. Should I be doing this to cut down on parasites and increase gas solubility? I run at 1.022 at the moment.
Kind Regards,
James
<1.022 is fine... I would not keep your spg lower than this for routine purposes. Bob Fenner> 

20 Gal Live Rock tank.
Hello Bob (or whoever else may be answering), Appreciate your site very much!  My son has the big tank :). He had some left over LR that I used to set up a 20 gal high tank.  My 20 gal high has aragonite substrate, in addition to about 15 lbs LR. It's got 65 watts of 50/50 power compact lighting running 12 hours a day. It's also got a big powerhead (400 gph) and a Bio-Wheel outside filter (which might be unnecessary, but was a "seeded" filter that was used to accelerate the original tank cycling).  No fish in the tank (maybe will add a couple, sometime). It does have a small crab that came with the LR.  Tank's been set up for nearly a year, and mostly doing fine (though a hermit crab died recently, I suspect because of water quality problems (accidental switch between our two wells plus unintentional use of softened water -- all presumably under control now that we have a RO/DI system in use).  There is some Halimeda green algae, and some coralline algae in the tank. I haven't had problems with other nuisance algae. I'd especially like to encourage the coralline. So these are my questions:
Is this too much light for corallines? I'd rather change 3 gals of water weekly than mess with testing the water and adding supplements to encourage the coralline. Do you think just changing this much water regularly will be sufficient?
Is the Halimeda algae good to have (I know Caulerpa is frowned upon)?
If I change 3 gals. of water weekly, is a protein skimmer unnecessary? Would it still be unnecessary if I added a couple fish.
Should I take out the BioWheel part of the filter (some say BioWheels are nitrate generators)?
Thanks, Tom
>>>Greetings Tom!
You cannot have too much light for coralline, so no worries. Some varieties grow in bright light, others in partial light or complete darkness.
You don't need to test your water really at this point given the critters you have. Your water change schedule sounds just fine for your purposes. HOWEVER, Halimeda consumes calcium, so if these levels are not maintained, it may wither. I do like it, but it's not the algae to keep for nutrient control, for that Chaetomorpha is recommended, and in the sump rather than the main tank.
You don't need a skimmer, and certainly not with a tank such as yours with almost no animals. As far as the BioWheel, it's superfluous at best. If you remove it, you might want to add a small powerhead to make up for the lost circulation.
Cheers
Jim<<<

FOWLR water quality
Greetings,
Can seem to resolve this longstanding issue.
I have had my FOWLR tank for a good year now. Its  a 90 gallon. I have 75lbs or so of LR and of course LS. At this time, I only have assorted crabs and snails and 3 damsels in the tank.
My issue has always been a seeming in-ordinate amount of suspended debris, that is always in the tank. Yet when I go to the LFS's and see say their setup, the water is crystal and they have a similar setup as I do
I have tried many different combinations of filters, skimmers etc and it seems to always remain the same.
I currently am running  a Remora Pro skimmer with a mag drive pump and a skimmer box.
I also have an Aquaclear 802 powerhead with a Quickfilter attached and I direct the flow toward the surface for movement.
Is this not an adequate setup to promote water clarity of  suspended particles.<First of all, you will want to have a minimum of 900gph water flow in your system.  Either by way of power heads or power filter in combination.  I think a Rena, or other, power filter with a couple units of Chemi Pure will give you the clarity you want, but definitely get that water flow up there.  One 802 is not nearly enough to help keep debris suspended for removal from the tank.> James (Salty Dog)
The advice is most appreciated
Paul

Water quality and water changes
Blundell, once again, thank you very much !
When I move on, there are more and question marks appearing in my head. I
hope you can help clarify a few more questions regarding marine fish keeping
: << I'll do my best. >>
1. I plan to add 2 Dottybacks of the same size at the same time : 1
Pseudochromis porphyreus  Goldman (Magenta Dottyback) and 1 Pseudochromis
paccagnellae Axelrod (Royal Dottyback). Will there be any compatibility issue << I think you are fine. >>
? Currently I have 2 pigmy angels (eibli and rusty), 1 yellow tang, 1 banner
butterfly, 1 blue tang and 1 maroon clownfish. 100 gal tank with 80 pounds
live rocks
2. Since I'm keeping FOWLR tank, I only turn on the actinic blue light
during day time and turn on the 'full spectrum' day light for 3 hours a day
from the 8 pm until 10pm at night ? at night from 10pm to 7am in the
morning, all the lighting will be off. Will there be any impact to my fish.
<< No, but I'd keep the full spectrum on all day to help grow algae. >>
3. I'm able to maintain 0 ppm nitrate through DSB, plenum and refugium
method. do I still need to perform water change regularly. << It is a good idea.  Maybe not necessary but it helps. >> currently I
change 25% water every 3 months. will it be sufficient ?
<< That sounds good. >>
looking forward to hearing from u soon. Thanks !!!!!
Best rgds,<< Good luck. >>
Ooi PuJieh
<<  Blundell  >>

Small FOWLR Set-up
I am setting up a 29gal FOWLR again, I have 20lbs of live rock curing in a
lg trashcan. I am going to use 20lb of Arag-alive special grade to cycle
the tank and then add the live rock in 2 weeks. (rock will have cured for 4
weeks) When can I add my first fish, cleanup crew?
<I usually wait 6-8 weeks, or when nitrates hit zero.  This only goes for hardy fish that will readily eat prepared foods.  Stock slowly...>
I have a Emperor 280 /PolyFilter pad,3 Rio water pumps and a Red Sea Prizm skimmer, which
worked great for me before. I get conflicting info about when to start
using the skimmer. When should I turn it on?
<I always turn on my skimmer right at the outset.  In fact, I would put it on your trash can right now.  The more die off byproducts you can remove from your water now, the better.  More life will survive the curing process this way.>

Water parameters for a FOWLR 06/16/03
Hey crew,
<Hi Adam, PF with you tonight.>
I have a 40 gallon eclipse style aquarium, that is going to be emptied,  purified (bleach.) and redone for a FOWLR setup.
I have been reading into calcium and alkaline requirements, and am starting to get scared off of live rock.
<Well, really, there's nothing to be scared of. LR is about as undemanding as you can get.>
What all do I need to monitor and add buffers/supplements for to stabilize aquarium, since there will be a difference between a FO and FOWLR setup. (our transition since we used copper in display tank).
<Ok, if this is the same tank, then forget the LR. Copper never really comes out of a tank, it soaks into the sealant, etc. If so, then buy a new tank, and use the old one as a very large QT.>
We have two fish in it right now, a lunar wrasse (going to be adopted when too big) and a false/blue eye puffer. They will be put into Q tank while fixing/cycling tank.
I use UV sterilized water for the Local Grocery store, and after adding salt I add it directly into tank. <You should aerate the water with the salt in it at least for 24 hours, many people aerate before hand too.>
Since this is a weekly 5 gallon change, it doesn't fluctuate temp or anything at all.
My pH is steady at 7.8 which is a tad low, but steady. What can I do to correct this?
<Buffer your SW, you can use a small amount of baking soda for this. Try 1 teaspoon per 10/gallons and test.>
Again, this is without a skimmer, or aerator which soon will be
added. Will this help increase pH?
<No, it will not.>
And in general what else should I watch for when having a LR setup. I probably will have some sort of a calcium drip (if needed??), to reach desired levels for some nice algae growth...
<You can also use a two part buffer, such as B-Ionic, there are several brands out there to choose from. That will buffer your water as well as provide calcium for your algae.>
But corals are not going to be successful, or
attempted. So what parameters should I be aware of for
healthy water/Rock/fish/algae. I've read that as long as you don't have corals or clams etc that require specific amounts of calcium, as long as you do small weekly water changes, your parameters in your water will be ok. Is this correct?
<Yes, but since your pH is kind of low, look at buffering. Start here and read on: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm>
Thanks for your time,
Adam
<Have a good night, PF>