Codium... reading and writing  – 03/18/08
Hello again WWM Crew,
<RA>
It is I, Random Aquarist, back again for a few more questions. Today I'd like to talk about the macroalgae Codium. The only specimens I've seen for sale have been listed as Codium sp. or Codium taylori.
<Mmm, just a note re... have seen the local Codium, C. fragile, mis-sold in tropical aquarium stores out in California...>
A visit to AlgaeBase.org (http://www.algaebase.org/search/species/detail/?species_id=1222&-session=abv4:18B0AE0307c400614AmHJ2192D30) told me that this plant is found in the Caribbean, yet it also seems that it's been found in southern Asia as well. Would this be due to human intervention or is it naturally found there? If the former, what species are native to the Indo-Pacific and where can I buy them?
TIA,
Random Aquarist
<Mmm, read here: http://www.google.com/search?q=Codium+taylori+distribution&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-Address&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&sourceid=ie7&rlz=1I7PCTA
and do a search on "Codium Species Distribution"... perhaps an article on the same... Bob Fenner>

Good bubble algae   8/12/06
Hello
<Hi there>
I was wondering if bubble algae can be used to compete with diatoms and hair algae in a F/O tank.
<Mmm... in so much that they both use the same nutrient source, yes... not so sure re chemical interactions here>
Are there any concerns with letting it grow free when there are no other animals/plants to compete with it?  I know in a reef tank it is a nuisance Can I use it in a F/O tank for nutrient export?
<Don't know of a reason why not>
I have a 75 gallon tank with an undulated trigger and a little live rock. I use a remora pro skimmer and Fluval 404 canister.  I do not want to spend a lot of money or use my RO/DI filter for a tank containing one very hardy fish.  It wastes a lot of water and I need it for my reef. please let me know if this is a good decision.
Thank You,
Brent
<I prefer other algal species. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/maralgae.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Would Chaetomorpha help during tank cycling ?  5/29/06
Ohio Gozaimasu Crew !
<And good morrow to you>
I have been thinking(<==always dangerous)
<Less than always feeling>
about how to bolster the cycle process in my AquaPod 24 tank.  My 'cured' LFS Fiji live rock went in last night after spending ten minutes each in a super-salinated (1.050) bucket followed by a distilled water soak.  Vigorous swishing and scrubbing left both buckets so nasty that half way through the 22 pound box I stopped and replaced the water.  Some of the obviously dead, decaying soft matter left me really appreciating the heavy neoprene gloves I was wearing while I scrubbed it off.  Right now the LR is simply sitting on top of the DSB and a PVC frame.  Aquascaping for esthetics will wait till the tank is properly cycled.  Having gotten all the LR into the tank I made sure that the heater, powerhead and skimmer were all working properly and went to bed. This morning I tested the tank's water parameters and found that 'shocking' changes had occurred overnight:
Ammonia 0.2 (was 0)
Nitrate 35 ppm (was 0)
Nitrite 0.3 ppm (was 0)
Phosphate 0.1 (was 0)
pH 8.3 (unchanged)
Alkalinity 5.5 (unchanged)
Temperature 78 (unchanged)
Salinity 1.025 (unchanged)
Skimmer cup empty
<All about right thus far...>
Retesting late this afternoon the numbers were essentially unchanged.
<The alkalinity and pH will drop soon... Nitrogenous compounds increase...>
After spending the last 2 1/2 (very pleasurable) hours Googling my way around WWM you can imagine my relief to be reassured that these 'instantaneous' changes in water chemistry are completely normal as a new tank begins the cycling process.
<Yep>
20 gallons of buffered and aerated water with a SpGr of 1.025 are at the ready while I monitor the ammonia and nitrite levels like a hawk.  Any readings above 0.8 ppm on either will trigger a change of  50% of the water, followed by re-testing twelve hours later.
<Very good>
Then, while fussing with the airstones and powerhead  trying to ensure even water flow, an inspiration struck.  I currently have the tank lights off because I subscribe to Anthony's advice that leaving them off will minimize the growth of nuisance algae during the curing process.
<Some are of this opinion... I am generally not>
  Two of my synapses shorted out and I thought "Nitrogen + Phosphate can be controlled using a macro algae like Chaetomorpha (which I was planning on adding anyway)". If I were to add a 5 inch clump of Chaetomorpha (sp) available for less than ten bucks at the LFS, and then started a 10 hour light cycle, would that help or hinder the curing process ?  
<Maybe... it might "just die" or be overwhelmed by chemical changes, out-poisoned-competed by BGA et al.>
Thumbing through my college Botany book it appears that these compounds which are toxic to the Kingdom Animalia would be ideal 'munchies' for a member of Kingdom Plantae.
<Many, not all>
Or so my 'reasoning' goes.  Any thoughts/observations ?  I certainly don't want to interfere with the establishment of viable cultures of Nitrogen-fixing bacteria but would really like to help ensure that the toxicity of the tank doesn't threaten the viability of the desirable organisms currently tenaciously clinging to life deep within the crevices of the live rock.  And, maybe, save a few bucks in salt mix and buffering compound.
<Mmm, well... the most "trouble free" process involves darkened curing conditions, time going by... but all can be expedited, much life spared by monitoring, doing the water changes you mention... Worth trying the Chaetomorpha though>
Sayonara, and thanks once again for being willing to do all the 'donkey work' involved in keeping up such a great site !
John
<Eeee haugh! Bob Fenner>

Macroalgae Selection   6/13/06
Hello
<Hi there! Scott F. here today!>
Do you have an opinion on any type of macroalgae that can be used decoratively in the main display? Someone has suggested Halimeda  from Live aquaria.
John Arenz
<John, as long as you are maintaining sufficient calcium  and light levels in your system, I think that you'll do fine with this macroalgae. It's one of my personal favorites!>

Halimeda Leaves    7/13/06
Dear Crew,
<Paul>
I have two questions regarding a batch of Halimeda leaves that has accumulated on the surface of my otherwise sugar-fine aragonite substrate:
<Okay>
(1) Will the leaves trap detritus and contribute to a high nitrate & phosphate problem?
<No, not likely... in fact...>
(2) Will the leaves harbor small organisms that can sustain a Mandarin Dragonet should I acquire one?
<Will likely help, and...>
In other words, I am trying to determine if the dead Halimeda leaves have any usefulness before I siphon them out.
<I would leave them, enjoy their beauty and utility. Are almost completely calcium carbonate... of good shape...>
My tank is a 75-gallon reef tank with plenty of live rock, coral, anemones, and 12 small (2" long) fish that unfortunately don't eat algae.  I've had 20 of these fish (Blue Damsels, Pajama Cardinals) but I've recently reduced the fish population to 12 in an attempt to control high nitrates, phosphates and hair algae.  There is also a 29-gallon refugium with a small batch of Chaetomorpha that does not grow as fast as the algae.
Thanks very much,
Paul.
<If we could easily harvest such calcareous material and offer it as purposeful substrate... it would sell. Bob Fenner>

Macro Algae...Which Chaetomorpha? - 06/07/05
Eric,
<<Paul>>
Thanks for your reply.
<<My pleasure>>
To control unwanted diatoms and algae, I hope to find a macro algae that can keep phosphate and nitrogen levels low.
<<Most any of them will do this>>
I haven't considered a macro algae that absorbs silica but the idea is intriguing!
<<I may have confused you here...I'm not aware of a macro algae that will absorb/control silicates to any extent.>>
My refugium is bare-bottom because the main tank already has a deep sand bed with "wall-to-wall" live rock.
<<Understood.  I just believe "more is better."  But that be me <G>.>>
So my "ideal" macro algae will keep nutrient levels very low and be able to thrive while floating in suspension.
<<Then Chaetomorpha is a great choice.  Easy (relatively) to keep, much less noxious and prone to sexual reproduction than Caulerpa species.>>  
You suggested Chaetomorpha linum.  All of the suppliers that I have dealt with have no idea what species of Chaetomorpha they have in stock.  Do you know of any website retailers that specifically carry Chaetomorpha linum?
<<I'm no expert on macro algae, but I think you have little concern here.  Though there are several species of Chaetomorpha (cannibina, antennina, linum, etc.), all would likely serve the purpose equally well.  Chaetomorpha linum seems to be the most commonly available is very likely what your suppliers have on hand.>>
Thanks very much.  Regards, Paul.
<<Very welcome.  Eric R.>>

Great Source for Mermaid's Wineglass (I didn't know they drank)
>Hi 'Skeleton Crew' gang:
>>HA! Someone DID notice! Woo-dee-hoo!
>I'm a nut for marine macroalgae... and in the past my best source has been Morgan Lidster at Inland Aquatics (I've seen him and his operation referred to favorably here in WWM before)...
>>Indeed, though, last I'd heard, Inland was closing at least its online operations. Fantastic operator, they all really know their stuff.
>..but one species in particular that's been hard to find is Acetabularia crenulata AKA Mermaid's Wineglass or Mermaid's Winecups.
>>Oh yes! Not sure, but I seem to recollect hear tell of Harbor Aquatics having it, at least occasionally, as well.
>It's a beautiful, lightly calcified algae, with bright green 'parasols' suspended on slender stalks...
>>Indeed, almost like having a zoanthid or other animal. Really attractive species, though I personally have never kept it. Is its husbandry particularly difficult?
>..it's actually the cover photo species for Littler & Littler's 'Marine Plants of the Caribbean'...
>>Those interested, take note!
>..by virtue of being so attractive. Anyway, I FINALLY found source for this, very reasonable ($4.99 per cluster, plus shipping) with great service and  attention to packing (it's a delicate shipper)... so I thought I'd share it.
>>Please do!
>It's Holly@Floridapets.com - The only caveat is it's fresh from the ocean floor, and full of 'hitchhikers', so be prepared for a dip/QT regimen unless you're anxious to include same in your system.
>>Fantastic to know, Chuck.
>Chuck
>>Will be posting this on the dailies, and I'm sure there will be many thankful for the tip. Marina 

"Beautiful Hair Algae"
Bob,
<James>
When you get time you may find this item interesting.  Back in the late 60's
in my freshwater days I heard of a new shop opening about 12 miles away, "Love's Aquarium".
<Heee! An appropriate name for the times... Did they have paisleys and peace signs on their windows?>
While browsing through the store I came upon 7 or 8 crystal clear tanks with fish that had colors I've never saw before....gorgeous.  My first encounter face to face with marine fish.  Naturally I had to have a saltwater tank.  
Anyway to shorten this up, several weeks later, again at Love's, I came upon this beautiful mustard yellow fish.  Tom says (Love) that's a yellow tang.  
Wrap him up Tom.  Not so fast Jim.  This fish requires a healthy green algae growth to survive (1969).  Well, I didn't have algae.  I did everything imaginable to grow it.  Daylight, warm white, cool white, plant lights, no algae.  Also didn't use skimmers or wet/dries then.  So, no algae, no tang. 
A few years later Aquarium Systems came out with "Sea Garden".  The answer to my prayers.  Off we went to get Sea Garden.  In two weeks, I'll have my yellow tang.  No you won't, still no algae.  OK Bob, bottom line is, back then I pulled my hair out trying to grow algae to no avail.  Why is it now, that one of the biggest problems with marine systems is the prevention of algae, when over 30 years ago, I couldn't grow it to win a bet?  I always think about that when I get an algae outbreak.
Jim (Salty Dog)
James Gasta
<Yet another example of "Murphy's Law" in petfishing! BobF>

Hair algae problems
Good day to you all. Great site I have learned so much by reading it.
Just a few questions today.
First I am from FL and I am using the white beach sand from there for my substrate. I did clean it all up (sifting, bleach, etc). A lot of web sites I have gone through have said that the best type of substrate is aragonite. Do you know what all this sand is made of? << I would think that much beach sand would be aragonite (CaCO3) but also with some silicate impurities.  Nothing that I would worry about. >> Will it do the same as buying sand in a bag labeled aragonite? I have been using it for quite a while now and have seen no problems. << I think it is fine. >> The tank is a 55G FOWLR, 1 Yellow
tang, 1 Snowflake eel, 1 Maroon clown,  2 yellow tail Damsels, 1 Blue fin Damsel, 1 brittle star. Not much rock about 20lbsup top, and about 1-1.5 inch sand bed, looking to put more in. 29G sump with 3 in bed sand bed, 20 lbs lava rock, and Caulerpa.
Second, I only have 1 40w bulb on my main tank. I have heard that live rock needs strong lights. << Well I wouldn't say strong lights, but I'd run at least four 40 watt bulbs over any tank.  I think your live rock will grow more life. >>  Will this lighting kill my rock? I am planning on a 150G FOWLR and I do not to buy a lot of rock if it is not going to do a lot of good. << Live rock always does good.  It is great to have.  It is important to remember that the most important aspect of reef keepings is keeping things alive.  Good lighting can really help in that area.  I'd certainly upgrade lighting on a tank like that. >>
Third, I have a small 10G reef tank. It is full of hair algae and I know my Phos is high. I get my water from the LFS and have talked to them about them having Phos in there water but they assure me it is not in their water. From what I can tell they are a very reputable store.  When I first set it up I think I was overfeeding but I slowed down now I barely feed them anymore. The light bulbs are new. When I bought it about 4 months ago it had 2X65k, 36W bulbs. Since then I replace one of them with a 50/50 10k bulb to put a little more blue light in there. I can not figure out were the Phos is coming from. I replace about 1 gal per week; use a Phos sponge that I replace every few days. Hair algae are getting all over the rock, sand, and water pumps.  Can the hair algae be causing the high Phos if it gets rubbed off gets under the sand or rocks? << Doubtful, but this may not be that bad.  In a 10 gal tank you can easily increase the clean up crew.  Lets say you can get snails or hermits for $.50 each.  For $20 you can get 20 of each and that will make a huge difference.  If it were me, I'd just add $50 of snails and crabs to the tank. >> I also have a lamp sitting right next to the tank that my wife likes to keep on. Could this also be causing the hair algae? << Sure.  Well not causing it, but helping it grow.  High nutrients are also a problem here. >> The tank contains about 15lbs LR, 1 Percula clown, 4 blue hermits, 1 red leg hermit, 3 Cerith, 3 bumble bee, 3 Nassarius snails, 1 small BTA, 1 Montipora digitata, 1 Montipora Cp. The pump 170 GPH and a hang on back filter that pumps 90GPH.  Were can this be coming from? Yesterday I went and bought a Lawnmower Blenny to help keep the algae under control. << I don't think they are very effective. >> I know the tank is too small. I am hoping that he will eat most of the algae up and then I will put him in my larger tank.
<< Sometimes manual removal is great way.... just put your arm in the tank. >>
Thanks,
Geoff
<<  Blundell  >>

Halimeda Algae causes disease?
Hello Mr. Fenner,
Thanks to you and the WWM crew for all the info you have provided (and $$$saved) me over the past year. I came across this recent article and wantedto get your opinion:
http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/pfk/pages/item.php?news=449
<Hi Cliff, Ryan with you today.  Interesting article, but I wouldn't freak out at the first sign of a Halimeda sprouting from live rock.  Algae play an important part of the reef aquarium- But common sense tells us that they're better displayed in refugia.  Halimeda isn't the best choice for nutrient export, so it has recently lost some favor in the reefing community.  Competition is fierce in a reef!  Anything you truly want to flourish (in this case, stony corals) will need a bit of pampering, and removal of competition.  Could it be that the Halimeda causes undue stress to the coral, therefore creating opportunity for already present disease?  Food for thought.  Thanks for the link!  Ryan>
Thanks,
Cliff

Trying to increase hair algae growth!
Thanks Adam B! BTW, I just came back from a 4 day weekend and my Kole tang has wiped out all the hair algae in the tank -rocks, glass and sand. << Good to hear. >> I'll give him a week to start feeding on other stuff.
If not, what can I do to get the hair algae to grow faster to keep him fed.  << I wouldn't try to do that.  I'd stick with feeding him Nori and Spirulina and let the hair algae go away. >>
I'm planning on not using the phosphate sponge and poly filter anymore -just some carbon. Maybe I should get a few more fish so I introduce more
nutrients in to my tank!
<< Most people go there other way and are trying to decrease nutrients, so I don't think I'd intentionally make my water bad. >>
Narayan
<<  Blundell  >>

Ulva for Refugium
Hello Crew,
Is Ulva a good macroalgae for nutrient export in the refugium?  I have a bunch growing in my refuge but don't know if I should crop it or not.
Thanks for your help.
Roy
<Ulva and Enteromorpha (Order Ulvales), aka Sea Lettuce are excellent green algae for refugium use... for nutrient export as well as food. Bob Fenner>