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FAQs about Hippolytid Cleaner Shrimps, Behavior
Related Articles: Hippolytid
Cleaner Shrimp, Cleaner Shrimp, A Few Common
Shrimps for the Marine Aquarium by James W. Fatherree,
Related FAQs: & FAQs on: Hippolytid
FAQs 1, Hippolytid FAQs 2,
Hippolytid Identification, Hippolytid
Compatibility, Hippolytid Selection,
Hippolytid Systems, Hippolytid Feeding,
Hippolytid Disease, Hippolytid Reproduction,
& FAQs on All Cleaner Shrimp 1,
Cleaner Shrimp 2,
All
Cleaner Shrimp Identification,
Cleaner Shrimp Behavior,
Cleaner Shrimp Selection,
Cleaner Shrimp Compatibility,
Cleaner Shrimp Systems,
Cleaner Shrimp Feeding,
Cleaner Shrimp Disease,
Cleaner Shrimp Reproduction,
& Coral Banded Shrimp,
Dancing Shrimp, Harlequin
Shrimp, Pistol Shrimp,
Saron
Shrimp, Shrimp Identification,
Shrimp Selection,
Shrimp Behavior, Shrimp
Compatibility, Shrimp Systems,
Shrimp
Feeding, Shrimp Reproduction,
Shrimp
Disease, Crustacean
Identification, Crustacean Selection,
Crustacean Behavior,
Crustacean Compatibility,
Crustacean Systems,
Crustacean Feeding,
Crustacean Disease,
Crustacean Reproduction, |

Better run and hide... here comes
predators!
Sepiateuthis lessoniana
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Fire shrimp
(dis)coloration... 11/25/2007
Hi! Hope you're doing fine! A quick one today (hopefully...:)
My Fire shrimps (L. debelius) always get paler after a while in my tank.
I believe they are otherwise healthy, they even spawn. They look good
but they don't have the striking vivid deep red color they had. I got a
third one yesterday and the difference in color is even more obvious as
I can compare one beside another...
What could be the cause (nutritional problem?) and what would be the
remedy to this?
Many thanks!
Dominique
<I have seen this over and over... though not always... and don't know
for sure what the real cause/deficiency/ies might be... Perhaps
nutritional as you state... likely, if so, tied to biomineral or other
water quality issue/imbalance... The Debelius' shrimps that seem to
retain their color have been in well-established reef systems... Perhaps
someone will read this message and write in to supplement... I did visit
TMC in the UK during the time when they were working out Helmut's Fire
Shrimps practical aquaculture... and theirs were brilliant red, sans the
presence of LR... the foods offered were told to be enriched with
carotenes, HUFAs... Bob Fenner>
Re: Fire shrimp
(dis)coloration... 11/25/2007
Hi Mr. Fenner, Thanks for the reply. I'll try feeding them on a
regular basis with Cyclop-eeze wafers soaked in Selcon. Be assured I
will write back in a few weeks to tell you the result (even if
negative).
Have a nice day!
Dominique
<Thank you for this. Cheers, BobF>
Follow up regarding L. debelius discoloration, beh. fdg.
-02/20/08
Hi Mr. Fenner,> Hope you're doing great. If you remember last time I told
you I would try to boost HUFA's in my L. debelius diet (Cyclop-eeze soaked in
Selcon) in an attempt to counter discoloration and said I would report the
result.
<Yes>
Unfortunately it's inconclusive. I have the impression it helped to an extent
but it's not so clear. The problem is that they 3) are very shy and reclusive
and are somewhat difficult to target feed especially in presence of more
outgoing shrimps such as L. amboinensis. An employee at my LFS believes
discoloration comes from the fact that this species lives naturally deeper, in
low light situation.
<Interesting>
I think indirectly he's right. They might not get optimal nutrition and not
enough HUFAs because we place them in shallow water / intense light biotope
tanks were they are stressed and too shy to come out and take the offered food
(even when kept in group). That's just another illustration that it's best to
stick to species that fit a specific biotope I guess (which I usually do). Long
story for a too obvious fact probably... I will avoid that species for that kind
of set-up in the future. Ok, just wanted to let you know as I said I would...
Thanks! Dominique>
<Thank you, BobF>
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Lysmata amboinesis, beh.
11/4/07
Crew,
This is not really much of a question but more of an observation. My Lysmata
(pacific scarlet cleaner shrimp) stops eating for a day or two prior to molt.
Then after a day eats from my hand. Also a week prior it's antennae start to
turn red. Is the red thing normal?
<Yes. Good observations. Bob Fenner>
Thanks,
Nick
Cleaner Shrimp Molt question - 4/17/07
I am wondering if it is normal for my Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp to molt
more than once in a 15 day period? < No, could be due to stress. Check water
parameters/chemistry. Normal is every 3-8 weeks.> Thank you Dee <You're welcome!
-Lynn>
Killer Sailfin (& Cleaner Shrimp f')
Hi Bob, how do I get my Sailfin Tang to stop attacking, my cleaner shrimp.
Got the shrimp today at 12:00 pm, all of the antennas picked off by
5:00pm.
<Put in more rock, hiding spaces for the shrimp and/or remove the Tang from
its presence otherwise for a few days. The Sailfin is very likely only trying to
"get the shrimps attention" for cleaning services... and the shrimp
"suffering from jet-lag". It just needs a rest>
Also, I noticed that they get wobbly after there antennas are gone, (fourth one
he has killed). What purpose do the antennas serve, is it balance by any chance.
Thanks for all the great resources.
<At the base of the antennae there are spatial orientation sensors... but not
the antennae themselves... These will "regenerate" next molt BTW. Just
save it from dying from exhaustion, being knocked about for now. Bob Fenner>
Peppermint Shrimp
Dear Mr. Fenner (or WetWebMedia crew),
Let me start off by giving praise to "The Conscientious Marine
Aquarist", it is the best book ever written. I would also like to thank you
for this wonderful website and your feedback to our questions! I know your time
is extremely valuable and that you read a BULK of e-mails. I will try and keep
this short. I have a question regarding Peppermint Shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni).
Do they clean parasites off of fish like the common cleaner shrimp?
<I have seen them clean Moray Eels before.>
I know they are known for going after Aiptasia.
<Yes, their claim to fame.>
The reason I ask is because my Clarkii (Amphiprion clarkii) keeps swimming over
to a pair of Peppermint Shrimp I have in the tank. The Clarkii doesn't appear to
have any ich (white dots) on his body.
<Come on, scratch my back! Please!>
If the Peppermint doesn't clean parasites, can I add common cleaner shrimp with
the peppermint shrimp?
<Depends on tank size and individual's disposition.>
I have a 30 gallon setup with 10 gallon sump.
<I would put your odds at 50/50. I have seen Peppermint's with Cleaner's, but
I have also heard of several instances where one killed the other.>
Light bio-load, only the clown fish, a green carpet anemone, two Peppermint
Shrimp, and a couple turbo snails. If I can add the common cleaner shrimp, is
there an easy way to identify the Indo-Pacific White-Striped Cleaner (Lysmata
amboinensis) from the Atlantic White-Striped Cleaner (Lysmata grabhami)?
<Yes, the Pacific amboinensis has more dots on its tail. Baensch's Marine
Atlas, volume 1, has excellent back to back photos comparing the two.>
One last question, if my Clarkii does develop ich, what is the best way to treat
him?
<Quarantine and daily water changes to start would be my preference.>
Move to quarantine?
<Yes>
Lower salinity, temp?
<An option>
I read that copper shouldn't be used with anemone fish.
<I have seen the same thing in Wilkerson's book.>
I've had the Clarkii for over six months, he seems healthy, will the problem go
away on its own if I don't intervene?
<I am not sure there is a problem.>
Is the Clarkii going over to the shrimp a bad sign, or is it just natural
behavior?
<It could be either.>
Thanks for your time and patience, Jeremy
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>
Why's he doing that? Response to Cleaner Shrimp
Good morning WWM crew! Hope all is well!
<and to you as well>
One quick question for ya this morning... My yellow tang has finally started
using the cleaner shrimp (boy are they happy!) and they have gotten virtually
all of the remaining black spot off of him (I am pleased, but still watching
carefully in case of an "outbreak" that they can't handle).
<very well>
He sometimes seems to buck while they're cleaning him though. Earlier today I
watched him buck quite a bit, actually. Is this just because they get a little
rough?
<perhaps... still a vulnerable position for the tang to be sitting still.
Naturally nervous>
(I know from experience that sometimes they do pick a little hard) He won't
(intentionally) hurt them if he's going over to their "station" to be
cleaned will he?
<doubtful... no worries here>
Thanks! TJ the Novice :)
<Kindly, Anthony... the apprentice>
Why's he doing that?
Good morning WWM crew! Hope all is well! One quick question for ya this
morning... My yellow tang has finally started using the cleaner shrimp (boy are
they happy!) and they have gotten virtually all of the remaining black spot off
of him (I am pleased, but still watching carefully in case of an
"outbreak" that they can't handle). He sometimes seems to buck while
they're cleaning him though. Earlier today I watched him buck quite a bit,
actually. Is this just because they get a little rough? (I know from experience
that sometimes they do pick a little hard) He won't (intentionally) hurt them if
he's going over to their "station" to be cleaned will he? Thanks! TJ
the Novice :)
<<Hi TJ, Craig answering your question.
I wouldn't worry about this at all. If the Tang doesn't like it he won't go to
the station or stay long. This is fairly common behavior for fish and cleaners.
Kinda like a really good scratch.
My Sailfin Blenny took one of my cleaners for a ride in response to something
like this. Just imagine if they were like dogs and had rear leg scratching
spasms....Enjoy the show! Craig>>
Gourmet Shrimp!
Kind Sirs,
<Hi there! Scott F. with you today!>
I recently purchased a cleaner shrimp. From the tail markings it looks as though
it's the Pacific White Stripe Cleaner Lysmata amboinensis, I read through the
FAQ's and If I may, pose a few questions to see if I understand shrimp care
correctly. Tanks size, 30 ga, His future clients consist of 2 percula clowns
(2" and 1 ½" ) and a 1 inch yellow damsel. Because as much as the
shrimp tries, the fish currently don't want anything to do with it. From what I
read, It's a learning process and in about 2 weeks the fish should be forming a
line to the cleaning station?
<All depends on the fish!>
As for the molting process, It was mentioned once in the FAQ's, But the way I
understand it is, I should leave the molted shell in the tank and the shrimp
will eventually eat it?
<Wow! If it were me, I'd remove anything from the tank that has the potential
to decompose and add to the level of dissolved organics in the water>
Feeding? My impression, at first, was that the shrimp would scavenge for food.
After reading more about it, It looks as though I should turkey baste some food
in his direction?
<Always appreciated!>
Daily? I did that this morning and he had a feast with the blood worms. Not sure
how to get flake food to him, except maybe crumble, mix with tank water and
baste it to him.
<Not a bad technique, but I'd stick to frozen, marine-based foods
instead.>
I slowly released the blood worms and he was able to catch them.
My current feeding habits consist of 2 times daily of a mix of the
following: blood worms (thawed, and every 3 days soaked with 5 drops
of vita-chem vitamins), marine flakes, Spirulina flakes, freeze dried plankton
(krill) as a treat, (also soaked with Selcon ? twice weekly), DT's (blended) and
clam juice for the dusters (two). 2 days of each through the course of a week.
My guess is that the vita-chem soaked blood worms would pose no problem for the
shrimp? As well as the Selcon?
<Certainly couldn't hurt- but I'd try to give more 'marine-based" foods
as mentioned above. Do feed the clam juice sparingly to your 'dusters, as
excessive amounts can pollute your water horribly!>
My plans for this weekend are to mix up some fresh shrimp, clams, Spirulina
flakes and vita-chem (need to check bob's recipe again) and freeze to feed the
clowns as well as have the juice in the tank for the dusters.
<Good stuff! Again, I urge caution not to overfeed the "juice".>
Should I look to add anything for the shrimp?
<I think your mix sounds just fine!>
From what I've read on your site, Mysis(?) shrimp is the choice of frozen, but
seems to be lacking at my LFS. I've found the fish take to the blood worms but
feel I should switch to more of a marine type food.
<My recommendation, exactly!>
I have found frozen krill, squid (I think) and pro green at my LPS, would any be
recommended over the other or should I stick with the blood worms and soon to be
homemade stuff?
<They all sound good- even the bloodworms, but I'd try to vary the diet as
much as possible, again stressing the use of marine foods>
As for the crew's Reef Invertebrates book, Will it be available for
pre-order up to around Christmas time?
<Sure! And it looks to be a good book! you can even get an autographed one if
you preorder!>
I kind of got "the look" when "Clownfishes" showed up after
purchasing, and continually reading both Mike Paletta's "New Marine
Aquarium" and Bob's "CMA".
<All are great books!>
And figured I'd better curb some on-line purchasing for a bit.
<After you order the Crew's new book, of course!>
Again my fish as well as myself thank you. Dave
<And thank you for writing, Dave. Your animals seem to be in very capable
hands! Good luck!>
29G FO Husbandry
Season's greetings to all of the WetWebMedia Crew!!!
<And thou>
Ok, thanks to all of your support I am now on the path that will hopefully bring
health and happiness to all of my marine "guests". I would
be grateful for clarification on a couple of questions:
(1) Santa is bringing an Eheim ECCO 2233 (rated for 60G) and a CPR
BakPak skimmer for the 29G tank. Would live rock find enough
"food" to remain alive with the implementation of the Eheim and the
skimmer? Would 30lbs still be a reasonable amount?
<Yes, and yes>
(2) "Help, my snails have fallen and can't get
up!!!" What's the deal with my turbo snails, are they
handicapped? I keep finding them upside down. If I don't
upright them will they be able to right themselves? How long can they
survive "upside down" before they expire?
<Please see WetWebMedia.com re "Marine Snail FAQs"... a few
possibilities here. Likely alkalinity anomaly>
(3) Cleaner shrimp and damsels have not developed the relationship I
had hoped. One of the damsels began to show an interest in the
scarlet cleaner shrimp.... unfortunately I have discovered it is not the
"cleaning" that he is interested in. The damsel
periodically tries to kick the shrimps butt. Charging, nipping, even
swam under his tail and tried to up-end the shrimp one time. Is my
shrimp in danger? Oh why oh why couldn't I find all you helpful
people before the LFS told me to put damsels in my tank?
<Give them more time together. Purposely feed the shrimp with a "feeding
stick" in a corner, on a daily routine>
Thanks for any advice you can share.
<Be chatting, Bob Fenner>
Cleaner Shrimp Question - 2/12/03
Hello,
<cheers>
I just found your site and I love it.
<thanks kindly... do keep reading, sharing and growing! Tell a friend too
please>
I have one cleaner shrimp right now...I plan to get at least one more but I was
wondering how often the shed their shells?
<varies by feeding and nutrient levels (iodine)... but not by gender like
some other shrimps. Cleaner shrimps are hermaphrodites... any 2 can breed
together>
I've had this one 2 weeks and he has shed 2 times.
<awesome! Once or twice monthly is common>
He seems very happy and healthy. He eats, cleans himself and cleans my damsel.
(My Regal Tang won't go to him...yet) Is this normal for them to shed so much?
<a very good sign>
Thanks for your help. Kit "In the end, we conserve only what we love. We
will love only what we understand. We will understand only what we are taught."
<best regards, Anthony>
Re: My Aquarium
Good morning to whoever is listening today.
<Hello, Steven Pro online now.>
Over the past week or so Bob Fenner has been helping me to recover from many problems in my aquarium (I've attached some
of our correspondence below for you reference). I know Bob is away for a week, but he asked me to still send through if I have any input during this week.
<Sure, Anthony and I have things under control as far as Q&A's go.>
Out of all Bob's recommendations I have managed to get most done over the past couple of days - I replaced the
substrate with fine coral sand (phew), added a bag of activated carbon to the sump, installed a light above my sump and introduced some Caulerpa (which seems to have grown a little), removed the lobster/hermit crabs. I also added one cleaner shrimp
(Lysmata grabhami) and did a 20% water change. I traded the Carpet anemone and the triggerfish. So the only practical challenge I have left for the moment is to modify my sump into a
refugium.
The only question I have for you is about the Lysmata -
I introduced him to my aquarium 2 days ago. Immediately my Tang and the 2 Angels started begging him for a cleaning, but he just ignored them and found a hiding place under a rock. All day yesterday he kept hiding there and continued to ignore the fish who are still constantly begging to be cleaned. This morning I noticed that the Lysmata has molted during the night, but it is still hiding.
<Probably just settling in.>
From what I've read in your cleaner shrimp articles and FAQ's, it seems normal for the Lysmata to hide just before and after it molts and also to take a couple of days before it feels comfortable enough to start cleaning new tankmates etc.
<Yes>
I was just wondering if you have any comments regarding this?
<Nothing extra to add, in time your shrimp will relax and come out more and more.>
It doesn't come out of hiding when I feed either and I'm not sure if I should specifically feed him or just leave him be for the next couple of days. I can see the shrimp in its little cave and its very much alive, just not coming out.
<No worries yet, my friend.>
Thanks for all the help over the past couple of weeks. Chris Cronje
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>
Cleaner shrimp
Hey Bob,
Been reading your site and FAQ's a long time, and I have learned a lot.
<Ah, good>
My question is about the Atlantic White-Striped Cleaner Shrimp. I put him in
the tank a few days ago (55 gallon) and he's doing fine, moving about probing
with his antennae, even jumping up at times to grab food. My only question is
there any way to make the shrimp set up a cleaning station?
<To "make it"... Not really... but given a bit of time, some prominent rock, with space to get out of the light, "customers"... it likely will establish a cleaning station on its own>
The only problem the shrimp has had is a small scuffle with a lightfoot crab which he lost an
antennae too. (It was the shrimps fault though, he kept poking the lightfoot till the thing got mad. The
shrimp knows now to stay away from him. )
<No worries. It will regenerate the antenna next molt>
Could it be that my live stock is too small? I have 4 false percula clowns, a
striped damsel, all under 2 -2.5 inches. And two small fire gobies.
Any suggestions would be helpful...oh there is 70+ pounds of live rock in the
system with plenty of hiding space...Miguel
<Not too small per se, but perhaps too young/unfamiliar. Give all a few weeks and you should observe them "learning" to use each other. Bob Fenner>
Cleaner Shrimp Question
Bob,
A little over a week ago, I purchased a Common Cleaner Shrimp (Lysmata
amboinensis). He seems to be quite healthy and eating well, but in the past
day or two he seems to be hiding more than he was originally (although he's
still not very reclusive). At the same time the parts of his body which were
previously fairly white have turned a yellowish tint. Is he getting ready to
molt or do you think he had molted shortly before I bought him or might
something else be wrong?? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Again for your help, Phil in San Diego
<Very likely just pre-molt behavior and coloration. Please do read through the Cleaner Shrimp FAQs for others experiences: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnshrpf.htm
Bob Fenner>
Shrimp molting
I've had a Pacific Cleaner shrimp for about a month and a half. In that time it had molted twice. Is it normal for them to molt with such frequency?
<<Not too unusual... given plenty of food, growth, and good "water quality"...
Bob Fenner>>
Peppermint shrimp
Bob-
I recently purchased a Peppermint Shrimp. Since day 1 it has been missing in action. The only other inhabitants in the tank are a Percula Clown,
Yellow-Tailed Damsel, and a host of red legged, blue legged and left handed hermit crabs. The shrimp never comes out when I feed the tank, which is unlike my old Coral Banded Shrimp which aggressively ate. Is it in the nature of Peppermint Shrimps to hide or should I assume he is dead?
Thank you, Rob
<<Hmm, they (Lysmata wurdemanni) do hide almost all the time... better kept in a small number if they'll fit... I wouldn't give up just yet.... Especially if it is molting... you won't see much of it for a while.
Bob Fenner>>
Some questions about reefs (Lysmata)
Hi Bob,
Thanks for the answers :)
I brought a 2228 Eheim this time. I will also leave the shrimp shell in the
tank. I'm very lucky to have this shrimp and I really like it also. When I
do tank maintenance he sometime jumps onto my hands and start picking at
them. Very cute these cleaner shrimps.
<Yes, and very useful>
I will leave the pictures until I get the whole thing setup, including the
new tank. When that happens I will let you now where to find the pictures
on the net.
<Okay>
Thank you again for your patience and help :) Warmest regards, Lucien
<You're welcome my friend... Bob Fenner>
Smart shrimp, dumb fish
Hello WWM cleaner-shrimp guru :<IanB here>
I have a very active white banded cleaner shrimp that is aggressively try
to clean any of the fish in my 100 gal reefer (4 assorted small, apparently
all retarded.) None of them seem to know what to make of the shrimp and
don't allow it to get too close. <some fish don't like little pesky
cleaner shrimp> None have any visible parasites, but the
shrimp's been in there 6 weeks now and the fish don't seem any more
interested in utilizing the shrimp's services. <some don't like shrimp and
some
shrimp don't like fish...some dogs like cats and some don't> I stick my hand
in the tank
often, and this shrimp just tackles it, cleaning and pulling and scouring
all over my fingers and forearm. <yes, they tend to do that> This may be
the poor shrimp's only cleaning
exercise that it gets, so I feel obligated to do this. <You can do this if you
would like. As long
as the little shrimp eats he should be fine, no worries my friend
(its cleaning services are just
a bonus. they don't need to clean to survive. they are very content with eating
leftover food>
Any idea why the fish don't care? <good luck, IanB>
Thanks, SLC
Cleaner shrimp overuse? 3/8/04
Greetings! Thanks again for providing a wonderful site! I
always learn so much while reading through the FAQ's. I have scanned
and have not found anything like what I have now so perhaps you could shed some
light on it.
<Hi Ray. Adam here. Let's see what we're dealing with...>
I have a 55gal mini-reef. I got a coral beauty last Sunday after
waiting 5 weeks for one to come in with the right colors (I love him!). He
is in my main tank now after only 3 days of QT (damn dog, knocked over lamp and
broke QT tank, lucky I was home to respond). I did do a quick fresh
water & formalin dip (didn't like it past 1 min).
<What an unfortunate event! I am sure you know that a quarantine
period of more like 3-4 weeks is optimal. Also, FW dips less than
about five minutes are very ineffective. The fish often appear to be
very stressed, but it is best to tough it out.>
Thursday (day after putting in coral beauty) I saw that both he and my yellow
tang (been in there a while and was doing fine) were scratching. On
closer exam I saw several small black dots (10-15) on my tang. I did
a quick search on WWM and realized that it was most likely black spot disease. After
a long and wet battle, I managed to get the tang out and gave him a 5 min dip of
pH and temp balanced RO/DI with formalin. Thinking my Coral beauty
was infected the same, I did the same with him and he tolerated the 5 minute dip
well this time. By Friday, no black spots were visible on the Tang
and neither was scratching on the rocks.
<"Black spot" is very common in yellow tangs. It is an
external parasite and as you have seen, it responds very well to FW dips. Your
five minute dip is still at the very minimum.>
Friday I went to my LFS and the guy that works there was kind to my situation. He
sold me a scarlet skunk cleaner shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis ) from one of his
display tanks (been in there months) so I could bypass my now destroyed QT with
little chance of introducing anything.
<This is very bad advice. Biological cleaners like shrimp, neon
gobies and wrasses are helpful, but in an aquarium environment they don't have a
chance of preventing or stopping outbreaks of common parasitic diseases. Quarantine
should still be considered a mandatory practice!>
It took all of an hour for my Coral Beauty to find the cleaner shrimp and he
visited it almost every 5 minutes for the remainder of the day. He
will go up to it, tilt on his side and open his mouth and gills for it. Now
for my questions (thanks for sticking with me this long). Can a fish
over use a cleaner shrimp? Will too much use hurt my fish? Is
there still something infecting
my coral beauty and if so, will the shrimp get rid of it? He is
eating great and everyone else in the tank is doing fine. Tank
parameters optimal.
<If the fish is still infected with something, the cleaner shrimp might help,
but it will likely be too little too late. All biological cleaners
have the potential to injure the subject they are cleaning, but in the case of
the shrimp, the fish would simply swim away and regulate it's own cleanings. It
sounds like you are likely safe in terms of disease, but please do replace your
q-tank for future additions and don't rely on cleaner shrimp to prevent
outbreaks! Best Regards. Adam> Thanks -Ray
REFUGIUM FLOW & OTHER QUESTIONS
Crew, <Hi John>
Definitely appreciate the support you guys do for the hobby every day! <As the
newest member on here, I'm continually amazed at the people I am honored to work
with> I read your site pretty continuously to keep up to date & learn as much
as I can. <Very nice.> I have a few, somewhat unrelated questions that I've
spooled up that I couldn't find direct answers to on your site (or are specific
to my setup).
My setup is a 120 gal (4'x2'x2') FOWLR with 180# LR. The tank's been
established 6 years with improvements made over time (upgrade to 520W of PC
lights, LR addition, added refugium, upgraded skimmer, etc.). Water params are
1.024 salinity, 8.4 PH, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, 10-20 nitrates, 4.0 alk, 450
calcium. Stocked w/ Emperor Angel (5yrs in tank), Regal Blue tang, Foxface,
flame angel, lawnmower blenny, cleaner shrimp & numerous snails/hermits. Here's
my questions:
- Refugium GPH? I've got a 15gal refugium with Miracle Mud, a couple different
types of Caulerpa, hermits, snails & some small frags of LR in-line via 2" pvc
with my wet/dry sump. Skimmer & UV pull from the sump & empty in the front
chamber of the fuge. Due to room constraints, my Iwaki
pump (a little over 2000gph) is at the end of the refugium returning to the
display tank. Yes, the water is seriously flowing through the fuge, but
everything looks great in there & water params have improved over the months
since it's introduction. <Nice to hear.> We are moving to a new house & I'll
have a room dedicated to my sump/filters, so I have the opportunity to optimally
adjust plumbing. <Wonderful, I am jealous.> I'm thinking of changing the setup
to have my Iwaki return pull from the sump, skimmer pull & dump back into the
sump, and have my UV pump
(250 gph) pull from the last chamber of my fuge & return to the sump. This would
lower my fuge gph more in line with what I think most would recommend? <It would
definitely take the flow amount down.> I'm struggling having my UV pull from the
sump due to killing off some of the "beneficials" exiting the fuge vs. a
separate/dedicated pump. <I have to say honestly I think you would loose a lot
of the benefit that you are gaining from the refugium. Personally I would
consider going with a dedicated pump.> The dedicated pump drawback is that in
the summer, my temps are 81-82 & adding another pump would probably increase the
heat. <I see what your concern is but I think it might be worth the addition of
a small fan or two to take care of the additional heat problem.> Your
thoughts? FYI - the 15gal has made such a difference that in the new setup, I'm
going to eventually add another 30 gal refugium to increase the overall health
of the system (either extended off the 15gal or on the other side of the sump).
<I'm a major proponent of refugiums. I have seen them make a huge difference on
many peoples tanks.>
-Reducing Caulerpa in refugium? My Caulerpa is going gang busters & I need to
cut it down. <Ah a common problem. Let me just caution you, if your Caulerpa is
going gangbusters there's more to the story than that. There's LOTS feeding the
Caulerpa, usually phosphates and that can be a problem.> What's the best way?
<I can tell you my method. Every couple of weeks I climb up on a step ladder and
just pull out Caulerpa. I don't take scissors, I just pull it out. Usually it
comes out in specific bunches at a time, and I'm lucky I have a distributor who
I sell it to and he sells it to stores.> Actually remove several of the plants
or prune the excess? <When I pull sometimes it does take out whole plants but
usually it takes bits and pieces of the plants and it seems to be natural places
it is ready to split. Let me warn you if you see anything in the Caulerpa
turning white pull the entire plant.> I think pruning would be easier, but I
think I remember hearing that cutting Caulerpa can sometimes cause degradation
of the whole plant? Also, when removing it, should I place some in the display
for food or flush it to eliminate the extra nutrients/nitrates in the whole
system? <I always put some in my tank for the tangs to eat and they devour it.
But it does release some of the nutrients and yes nitrates back into the tank.
Lots of people just toss the entire plant. One thing I always try to do is make
sure I have at least some of each type of grass or Caulerpa I have in my
refugium still there.>
-Refugium lighting? What's better ... alternate lighting with display or 24/7?
<Lots of people use the 24/7 because it keeps the ph higher and prevents the
Caulerpa from going sexual.> I've heard arguments for both. 24/7 is what I'm
doing, but it is probably not the best for the snails/hermits. With alternate
lighting I run the risk of the Caulerpa going sexual, right? <If you do proper
culling you won't have problems with it going sexual but both methods work.> Any
preference? Probably don't use Caulerpa & go alternate, right? <I know lots of
people who use grasses instead of Caulerpa. Personally my refugium has a mix of
both the grasses and the Caulerpas.>
-Clown for BTA? Probably my last fish to this tank will be a clown. I know the
maroon is the natural fit for BTA's, but I really prefer true Perc's (looks &
less aggressive). I've always known true Percs to inhabit a lot of anemones
outside of the natural selections. However, I just
personally have never seen true Percs in a tank with BTA's. What's your
thoughts on the pairing/selection? <I have not seen true Percs take to a BTA
but others have. I know my black perculas from Australia totally ignore it.> BTW
- I've only had the BTA 6 months and it's almost doubled in size from the LFS,
only wandered the first night & I believe has increased it's color
intensity. The only set back was a 6 hour power outage last week that resulted
in a 25 gal water loss (painful lesson - unclean check valve<OUCH>) that I had
to replace with hastily made up salt mix (RO water already made, but not salt).
Better of 2 evils I thought - quick mix water vs. airstones/powerheads dropped
in display. The BTA did shrink after the outage & only recently has made it to
close to pre-outage size. <Lately the skunk clowns appeal to me and I know they
will go to a BTA. Just a different idea.>
Not a question, but interesting comment. I just introduced my Flame angel &
cleaner shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis) to my display after a month in
quarantine. The cleaner never touched the flame in QT - probably due to the
fact that they're almost the same size. However, I was really worried about my
Emperor having a $40 cleaner snack. The Emperor knocks around any new
snails/hermits that are introduced & hasn't seen a cleaner shrimp for at least 5
years (had her that long). <Wonderful> I killed the lights upon introduction &
got the shrimp to go into a nice crevice. The Emperor showed immediate
interest, despite the lights not being on. Tapping on the tank didn't push her
away. I decided to intervene with my hand (algae scrapper didn't work)
to make sure the cleaner was deep enough in the crevice that if the Emperor bite
it would only get the antennae. Well, the Emperor moved up close (mouth first),
the shrimp stepped right out (I thought it was it's last move) and it climbed
right on the Emperor's head with no altercation. The
Emperor was cleaned for an entire hour right there only 5 minutes after the
shrimp was introduced! Today she has spent more time being cleaned (no lie - 6+
hours) than her usual free swimming. She's actually hounding the shrimp &
keeping the tang & Foxface away - which both keep swimming in sideways into the
area. The introduction of a 1.5" shrimp has completely changed the entire
behavior of my whole tank. Really amazing hobby & animals! <Such a wonderful
experience, thank you for sharing.>
Sorry for the long mail. <Wonderful email and thank you so much for sharing all
of this. Good luck, Mac>
Thanks,
John
Cleaner shrimp pestering anemone 8/1/04
The cleaner shrimp that I have is always in and around my anemone. My long
tip anemone is doing very well and is quite large compared to when I first got
him. I got him at a very good dealer. but whenever I feed the anemone or even
when I haven't, the shrimp either takes the anemone's food or is always digging
around in the anemone. I don't know if the shrimp is bothering him- or just
cleaning whatever is around the anemone's mouth. <The shrimp is looking for
food. It has been very well trained that a big chunk of food arrives in that
spot occasionally. If the anemone doesn't seem bothered, I wouldn't worry, but
some shrimps can turn particularly greedy and damage anemones or corals in their
efforts to steal food. Over all, I would suspect that the shrimp is in more
danger than the anemone... my carpet anemone ate both of my cleaners! It may be
best to give up one or the other.>
I was also going to ask if bristle worms are a problem in a tank. I get them out
when I can and I haven't seen as many as I used to, but they wont harm the
anemone or the few mushrooms I have in the tank will they? <Most bristle worms
are harmless scavengers. Only the true Caribbean fire worm and a couple of rare
others are harmful to other animals (unless you get a hand full of bristles that
is!). I would leave them in the tank to do their job and consider them innocent
until proven guilty. Best Regards, Adam>
Lonely Shrimp? (9/7/04)
Greetings all. <Greetings to you. Steve Allen tonight.>
I have a Skunk cleaner and two Camel shrimps in a 75 gallon system, with about
70 lbs. of live rock. The Cleaner has been in there for about 2 1/2 weeks and
is finally starting to show himself more often. When I reached in the tank
today to move some things around, he got all excited and started trying to clean
my arms and hands. Is this normal? <Yes. Tickles, doesn't it?> I am not too
worried, as he only tried to bite the scars once or twice, but is he that
desperate to clean something? <Simply engaging in natural instinctive behavior.
Mine do it all the time too. I doubt such neurologically-simple creatures
experience or act on "desperation."> I am guessing that he or she would probably
benefit from having another companion Cleaner, but should I get a fish or two
for them to clean? <Again, there is no reason to believe that shrimp would
experience loneliness. Although they are usually peaceful, there is some risk of
territorial aggression if you introduce another. As for needing fish to clean,
these shrimps eat just about anything, including flake and pellet foods.> The
only fish in there are two small (3") surf smelt I brought home from work to
start cycling the tank a month ago, and they will not let the Cleaner clean
them. If it matters, Ammonia levels were 0, Nitrites almost 0 (like .1 ppm),
and Nitrates were 10 ppm. (The elevated Nitrites were probably due to the
addition of some small rubble-sized pieces of live rock added 4 days ago.) I am
not particularly worried, everything seems healthy, just wondering if having a
companion and/or cleanable fish would make his "stay" that much more
comfortable. <Neither of these are needed. However, since cleaners are
hermaphroditic, they will likely mate on an ongoing basis in your tank, thereby
supplying live food.> Thanks for your time. <You're welcome. Hope this helps.>
Jeremy
How does a cleaner shrimp eat those parasites?
Dear Bob & All
<Peter>
Happy New Year and thanks for the helpful reply on the sea-squirt. I will
now sit back and enjoy the little fellow.
Could you answer a daft question? How on earth can a cleaner shrimp eat e.g.
Ick parasites?? My tang loves to drift near the shrimp. Would you expect to
see a shrimp eat parasites with its jaws (sic??). Or do they retain
parasites on their antennae and pass them to the mouth?
Best wishes
Peter Hosier
The whole thing is a mystery to me.
<Mmm, me too... I do think these shrimp species can actually see the resultant
raised spots on the fish, and pick away at these general areas... and maybe they
get clues from the host fish... like twitching when the area is cleaned up...
Bob Fenner>
Cleaner Shrimp - 05/05/2005
Hi again - one last question - I was watching my cleaner shrimp tonight,
and it did an odd thing. It's in my 45 gal tank, with 5 green
Chromis, a
flower pot coral, two frogspawn and a green star polyp coral (also many
little star polyps that are growing on the rock), and a large feather
duster. Every thing seems fine and happy. Tonight, the cleaner shrimp was
cleaning one of the Chromis fish, then actually got onto the fish's face and
put it's little white leg things into the fish's mouth! The fish endured it
for a minute, then swam away. It returned later and the shrimp attempted to
do this again. Is this normal cleaning behavior?
<Yes very much so. A cleaner shrimp will completely clean a fish. they
will get in the gills, mouth, scales, etc.. This is a great way to help
control parasites on your fish. As long as they will let the shrimp pick at
them. They even like to clean the cuticles on your fingers if you let them
:). Thanks EricS>
It was pretty funny!
Cleaner shrimp, Ammonia
Hello,
I have a 29 gallon tank with about 30-35 pounds of LR. I have had the
setup
for nearly 2 months and according to my nitrite tests, it is finished
cycling. I have gotten rid of the damsels I had to help with the
cycle and
added a percula clown and a Firefish along with 2 large and 2 small turbo
smalls and a few blue legged hermit crabs, (not including some stowaway
snails and at least 1 crab in the LR). That's not overcrowded, right?
<right> I
recently noticed that my clown was developing ick and since I don’t have a QT
( soon to get one) I lowered SG raised the temp and even gave him a
freshwater dip. He looked better for a while then the spots returned
(I
realize I'm treating the symptoms , not the cause). I then bought a
indo-pacific cleaner shrimp the other day but the clown hasn’t gone near it.
Is there anything that I can do to entice the clown into recognizing the
shrimp as a cleaner? Granted I have only had the shrimp for a few days. The
clownfish is tank raised, so does that play a part? < Just give
them time>Also, the ammonia is at
about 0.25-0.15 ppm and a little concerned. I saw some contrasting
points in
your FAQ about this, so is it better to let my LR and bio filtration get used
to the lessened bio load or should I do a water change, ( I do 10 percent
changes weekly regardless since the tank cycled). One last thing, I was
considering a royal Gramma and/or a coral beauty angel. What are your
thought on that as far as compatibility with the live stock I have, bio load,
etc. Love the site and the info is life saving. Thanks for any
advice,
Joshua Wells < If you have livestock in there you will want to lower the
ammonia to zero ASAP. I would choose the Gramma over the angel as the
angel will need more room than this and will probably terrorize the rest of the
fish. Wait at least 3 weeks before adding anymore fish to let the
system stabilize and to be sure and make sure the tank is ick free. Cody>