Marine Aquascaping…Building Large Rock Structures – 03/01/08
Are there any products or substances such as mortars, plasters, or plastics that can be used in marine aquariums to fuse together pieces of dead or live rock and build large rock structures?
<<There are…though for building a structure from “live” rock you will be pretty much limited to “mechanical” fasteners of some type (e.g. – Acrylic rods inserted through holes drilled in the rock) as using something like a hydraulic cement; though it could be applied “submerged”, will raise the pH of the water too high (about 12.0) and destroy the life in/on the rock>>
I am looking to build a rock structure to hide a series of standpipes and returns in the center of a tank that will be 48" tall.
<<Will require some thought/planning…but can be done>>
I am worried that just gluing together the pieces will not be stable enough at this height.
<<Indeed… Best to use some type of “skeleton” or frame upon which to attach the rock…and easily crafted from PVC pipe and fittings>>
I have heard that products like Thorite are better than "standard" cement for this type of application.
<<About any good “concrete” mix used with a plasticizer admix should work, I would think. But going this route, the end product is going to be VERY heavy>>
I have also heard that there are water-proof plaster products that can be used however my goal is to use products that do not require long term curing due to leaching.
<<I don’t know that a “plaster” would have the “strength” needed…as that provided by a concrete (aggregate) product>>
Any suggestions are appreciated.
-Adam
<<I think for both performance and to lessen weight, a foaming Polyurethane adhesive may work best for you. The Polyurethane foam will not only form a chemical (glue) bond, but will “expand” in to the irregularities of the rock creating a mechanical bond as well. The Polyurethane is amazingly “sticky,” and is inert, as well as surprisingly strong, once cured (about 24hrs). You can get it in “black” from aquatic (pond) sources, or use the slightly less expensive GREAT STUFF insulating foam found at most any home center/hardware store. I suggest you build the structure in segments outside the tank and then assemble/glue the structures together with more foam in the display. Don’t forget to use a PVC framework to support the rock and foam…and do be especially cautious if using the foam in/around an acrylic tank as it may disfigure/etch the acrylic on contact. I used this material to build some large rock structures on PVC frames for my 375g reef some four years ago, and the foam/structures have held up very well. Regards, EricR>>

Dream setup questions
Large Reef Setup 2/17/07
Hello guys! Well the time has arrived that I can start to price and setup my dream system. My military career is just a few years from being over and I have purchased land and have begun to start with an architect designing my home.
<Excellent!>
The center piece of that home is my dream tank. I have read and applied many of Mr Fenner's and Anthony's teachings over the years on my 55 gallon and my 180 mixed reef tanks. It seems I have learned so much and have made this hobby a treat. Since I tore down my 180 last spring for my last military move I have kept the reef juices flowing by reading, studying and designing my dream layout.
I want to go as big as I can handle and what the wife will let me. It will be an in wall setup with a dedicated 15*15 fish room that is on separate heating/cooling and separate breaker panel and complete power backup system generator/ floor drain etc. The display tank will be about 600-750 gallons. At least 8 feet long for the tangs and debating on a 30" or 36" inch height
<The height decision will make a big difference in lighting needed and ease of maintenance.>
and 36" or 48" depth. My sump will be 120-150 gallons with a 50 gallon frag tank and 2 150 gallon additional water change vessel that will alternate to make water changes/ top off a breeze plus add a acclimating tank or a time out tank for those who do not play nice.
<Sounds like you will have quite a nice setup.>
I will also have a 120 QT tank on its own system. My first question on my debate is the refugium. I have read Reef Invertebrates several times and want to go as big as possible.
<Yes.>
I am thinking 300 gallons. Is that over the top?
<No, not at all, the bigger the better.>
One reason is I want to add volume for the display (I plan on stocking at 1in per 5 gallons using their max length), plus I have seen the benefits of your strategies with my other tanks.
<Once a person sees the benefits of a refugium first hand it is hard to go back!>
Also I want to go that big to house a lot of the rock. I want an open look to the display and plan to only put about 1 lb of LR to every 2 gallons and make up the difference in the refugium. Basically the fuge would be one-quarter of the total volume (around 1200) plus I want to add a 120 gallon quarter cylinder tank strictly for smaller fish and anemone's plumbed in. Also in the refugium I plan on a shallow sugar fine bed of around 1" strictly for looks in the display but I want a DSB in either the refugium of 6-8" or do you think a separate plumbed RDSB in a 30 gallon trashcan is better with just tons of live rock/Chaeto in the refugium bare bottomed?
<I would opt for the DSB in the refugium, it will have a greater surface area. Although you could also run the remote DSB with it.>
I am thinking of not adding any animals to the tank for at least 6 months to a year to let the refugium culture and display get its roots. However can I add coral in that time frame or will the slow addition of fish cause a cycle in a tank this size?
<Not a problem, the addition of fish slowly will be fine with the amount of live rock you will likely have in this system. This is a long term project, and it sounds like you are approaching it as such.>
Please as I start this progress shoot holes where you see fit.
A few more quickies
- what kind of turnover in the refugium is acceptable?
<On a system this size, 1000-2000 gph will be about right.>
- Display turnover I am going to shoot for 30x's, sound right?
<Your water flow can certainly be this dynamic, but may not need to be depending on what you keep and where. In a tank this size you will inevitably end up with areas of high flow and low flow. So long as you place your livestock accordingly and have no dead spots of flow, you can likely get away with less.>
Thanks guys for any help you can bring. I have read many of Mr Fenner's and Mr Calfo's books, postings and thank you for what you do for us.
Jeff
<Welcome Jeff, it sounds like you are well on your way to a successful system. Have fun setting up, Scott V.>

Big plans 11/2/05
I was just hoping for some quick criticisms on my plans for my 600g tank. It's big (obviously) kinda clunky shaped (90x32x48),
<Mmm, would limit the height myself... trade off for more width if you'd like... easier to work on/in, keep clean, cheaper to build...>
has a built in overflow/filter in the back left corner, I'm guessing probably 75 gallons or so.
<The size of the filter?>
The back and left sides have black backgrounds. Already drilled it has four holes in the bottom, two on the left side, and one on the bottom of the overflow.  
<Going to be noisy>
The tank came with two Little Giants, I plan to plumb two closed loops with those pumps, draining from the side where the holes are and each one pump returning to two of the holes in the bottom. Currently I am having a custom stand made that will be able to hold an extremely large refugium above the tank.
<You must have very high ceilings!>
The stand which is already partially made, and partially in progress is 12" off the floor holding the main tank,
<Unusual...>
and the top frame will sit 16" taller than the main tank where I will be able to mount lights. The refugium which is still in design I was planning to have the same footprint as the tank, be perhaps 16" tall or so. Oddly enough, and unsurprising to you I'm sure, the cost/effectiveness of the fuge is offering me some very interesting choices. It's significantly cheaper for me to get a 96x24x24 tank than it would be for me to get a 90x24x16 or a 90x32x16
<Oh, yes>
which is what I would like ideally.  Silly customizations just rack right up regardless of actual gallonage. I'm sort of inclined to get the standard 240 just because it's cheaper, but I'm not sure how I'll feel about that decision once all's said and done. I feel like I'm sort of cheating your time by asking this sort of question, because it's mostly aesthetic (and I apologize :) 
<No worries... though I have no "fashion sense" to speak of, I do have opinions re the looks of captive aquatic systems>
- but do you think it would look "off" to have the fuge that is sitting directly above the main system, and really a display unto itself, to be 3" longer on each side than the main tank? 
<Mmm, not really... though the main tank being so low to the ground is going to generate comments>
And do you think it will be noticeable that it's 6" shorter front do back?
<Nope>
And do you think that at that volume of water it is "worth" taking the extra 6" of height just because I can for a few extra pennies even though I don't necessarily need the extra height for this particular function?
<Not in my opinion>
It's really nothing at cost, and adds about 100g with that footprint. Either way...the refugium will drain directly into the tank, and depending on what I decide to do be either pumped directly out of the overflow, or a sump if I decide that I need one. My vision for the refugium is really more of a fishless reef...in my mind's eye there are corals and algae and all varieties of invertebrate life living as harmoniously as critters that would eat each other if they were truly hungry can live, 
<Heeeee!>
and the 600 with be more along the lines of a FOWLR, putting in whatever noxious lower light corals I can possibly pull off. For the main tank, I have been planning on doing one closed loop in addition to the two coming out the bottom, and due to recent marveling at several other tanks with killer water flow have considered a fourth. I was eyeballing the Dolphin AquaSea that cranks 6000gph, and just drilling straight into the back - 8 outlets - each outlet with a LocLine T - so 16 outlets for that loop. This coupled with the two loops out the bottom would give me ~8500 gph which is pretty respectable for fish only system. My thought is that once this baby is filled, there's going to be no regrets, because there'll be no way to change anything. So I've been considering drilling, plumbing, and closing off 8 more outlets on the left side so that should I have the need and finances provide... I could simply buy another pump and stick it on there. Overkill?
<Mmm, in my view, yes... better to limit such plumbing, pump systems to no more than two>
Or am I still underkilling? Next thought is the sump - I don't really want one but I'm feeling like I might need one. I want to have an auto-top off system, which is easy to rig in a sump. Can one be practically installed in either the fuge or main... both of which will have overflows?
<Yes>
Aside from that, the only other reason I can think to have a sump is to have a place the skimmer - of  which I'm looking at the largest AquaC model. That issue is fairly easily remedied by spending an extra grand or so and getting a Euroreef, which I can just plumb obviously. Any other suggestions... or any other reasons I might truly need or want a sump?
<Mmm, nice place to add heaters, new water...>
Another issue I've run into (mentally) with that is that I have never seen a non-gravity fed sump, which...with the bottom of the tank only 1' off of the ground would be kind of tricky (say impossible?)
<Just more limited/limiting>
to do. The sump would be to the side, and I was thinking if I valved off the bulkhead at the bottom of the overflow and installed another bulkhead maybe halfway up coming out the side I could just run the overflow halfway full all the time? 
<Yes>
I think those are most of my plumbing concerns... but the questions are gonna keep rolling for a minute or two. The tank is acrylic, and the stand is steel. If the stand is reinforced with 3" steel beams front to back every 2 feet, is it still critical that the tank sits on a completely flat surface such as plywood? 
<The wood will rot... best to have as planar, level as possible w/o>
Is that something worth contacting a tank manufacturer about? The inside of the tank is also in need of some buffing/minor scratch removal. Any suggestions about where to get a hold of I'd guess almost bulk quantities of high quality super fine grit sandpaper? 
<... I'd sub this job/material search out... take a look on the Net re...>
It's a massive project, and planning it has been a blast, but overwhelming. I appreciate your thoughts and time as always! 
Scott
<If it's not too late, I'd make a plywood "model" of the tank, stand, refugium... and place it where you're thinking all this is going to go... I do hope the arrangement doesn't appear (too) odd. Bob Fenner> 

Re: Big plans 11/3/05
Thanks Bob for your quick re-my queries.
<Welcome>
I have the tank already... at 1/10th of the wholesale cost...which is why I took it despite it's awkward and annoying to work with shape. I'm going to have purchase scuba gear to work in it but ya gotta do what ya gotta do.
<Heeee!>
You have made me nervous (to say the least) about my grand design as to it's overall finished appearance, which I appreciate greatly... the last thing I want is a multi-thousand dollar funny looking setup. 
<I would "raise this up" as high as your ceiling will allow... leave a good two feet "head room"... though you can likely fashion the lighting/canopy to slide backward/forward... to allow you to get into the system>
As of right now, the tank is in front of my garage door, and the garage is set up as sort of a living room/shrine to aquatic life. I had (yes already done, tank now sitting on it) the stand built with this full design in mind: bottom to top - 12" stand, 48" tank, 16" lights, 12-16" refugium, and however much room I had/would need for fuge lights. The only way to possibly fit the whole setup in a standard room (in the future, if/when I move) was to make a really short stand. Also with a 4' tank, the top of the tank will still be significantly taller than say a standard 120 or 125 on a 3' stand, so I figured it wouldn't necessarily look all that abnormal. From the view of my couch, the empty tank and lower stand combo look natural at this point, and that is where I would guess 90% of the viewing would occur, 
<Good point... much more "natural" than if appreciated most of the time by folks standing, walking about>
and it fully covers up the garage door and most of that side of the room so it's still impressive in this environment despite it's diminished height. The top part of the stand is what is still in construction, and the refugium obvious to our prior dialogue is still just dreams in the works. I am taking your advice and constructing a plywood model to more closely identify with a finished product. Again, your sort of vague and ominous suggestions seemed to imply that you thought it would indeed look odd. 
<Yes... but once the novel appearance "wears off", and the life in it becomes more of a focus... should look less odd...>
I considered very strongly that it might, but decided ultimately if it were framed into a wall, it would look more like one floor to ceiling tank with a spacer in between than a tank with a big filter above it. Again I apologize for appealing only to your fashion sense ;),
<Heeee! Am wearing rolled up sweat pants and slippers presently...>
but I want it to look right. Would you scrap the overhead refugium idea in light of the fact that the tank is 4' tall, and even with the tank on a 1' stand the refugium will be seated at over 6' tall?
<Hard to state... your plan will work... and am a big fan of relying on gravity... and such an arrangement may look like two semi-continuous tanks after all...>
I had planned a 16" tall refugium so that I could have a 6" sandbed, and 10" of living and viewing space, do you think it would look better to go with a 12" tank and do a shallower sand bed or a 24" tall tank so that even from a disadvantaged viewing point you could still more or less see into the refugium?
<Depends on what you ultimately want to do... keep... if this upper tank was/is for reproduction of soft and/or hard corals and other cnidarians... I would go with the12" depth...>
If I did a 12" tall refugium, If I put it in a room with an 8' ceiling the tank would start 1' from the ground and the fuge would be 1' short of the ceiling -
<Is there a gap in-between the tank and this 'fuge? How does it move to allow you access to the main tank?>
so it would be perfectly square with the wall. I could most likely extend the 1' stand if I decided against the refugium, so that's not out of the question...it's just expensive to do more work, and expensive in that the top frame has already been designed to hold thousands of lbs of water, which would be needless without the refugium. Not that I think you
are ever withholding, but just be brutally honest as to where you think this is will end up, and where you yourself might go with it in my shoes :) Thanks! 
Scott
<Well... to toss a large new world Cercipithecoid into the works:  If it were me/mine, I'd look into cutting the tank down, around the "middle" to 2 1/2 feet and 1 1/2 feet in height, use the cut off portion below as a/the sump/refugium, have a new bottom fitted on the upper tank... Bob Fenner> 

"BassPro" size/type marine system  1/16/06
Hello Bob
My name is Seena from Canada, I worked in an aquarium store for about a year and now I work at BassPro and in that store we have a 24000 gallon freshwater water tank with large/small mouth bass, pikes etc.....
<Yes. Am familiar... have been in the original shop in FLA>
and I think a 12000 gallon trout stream. The 24000gallon take I believe has a concert shell with a large acrylic wall and two other small ones one the other side, my question is, would I able to build something like that but in saltwater. Would the concert be safe for the fish?
<Yes>
And how out I heat this thing?
<Very important question... as this, along with pumping, will cost a great deal... I would look into more passive means... solar, orientation of the building... as well as "heat pumps"...>
And one last question, for filtration could I use Large sand filters? because that is that we have at the BassPro.
  <You could... though filled with other media... I would definitely "draw all this up on paper" ahead of actual buying of gear... Unless you are wealthy, or have some capacity as your employer to offset expense, this project may be too expensive to keep running, let alone set-up. Bob Fenner>
Thanks you for your help
Sincerely Seena

Planning A New (Large) Tank - 01/02/06
Hello crew and happy New Year!
<<Hello and Happy New Year to you!>>
As always, I offer my great appreciation for your site and your assistance.  Thanks to you I have had much success with my current
225 gallon reef tank.
<<Excellent to hear.>>
I am about to begin a remodeling effort for my house and will be moving the tank to a new location, giving me an opportunity to go
even larger and fix some of the things I don't like in the current tank.
<<Larger eh...sweet!>>
I would love your input on the initial design decisions (and will no doubt come back with more questions if that is okay).
<<You bet>>
The new space is going to allow for an 8' x 3' x 3' tank (about 540 gallons).  I might be able to push it to 4 feet deep, but haven't decided.
<<Do it if you can afford/accommodate...you'll regret it forever if you don't.  But then, it's easy for me to spend your money <grin>.>>
My current tank is acrylic with deep sand bed and I have put numerous scratches in it,
<<Same here>>
particularly when cleaning close to the sand bed.
<<Yep...a necessary evil.>>
Since I want to continue with the sand, I want to have a glass front.
<<And back/sides/bottom I hope.>>
I read recently that the low iron glass tends to be more prone to
scratching, have you found that to be true?
<<No personal experience with this, but have heard same as you.>>
Would you recommend using low iron or not?
<<If it were me...I would go with the low-iron glass.>>
I would be interested in getting a composite tank with fiberglass
(or some other material?) sides for all but the viewing pane.  Do you know of any fabricator for tanks of this nature?
<<I don't...and I tend to think it would be safer to have an all-glass tank rather than trying to seal/adhere dissimilar materials.>>
I have attempted to create a biotope tank as described by Tullock in his Natural Reef Aquariums book.  I probably have not gone far enough in this direction, choosing animals from the indo-pacific lagoon biotope he describes (giving me the most flexibility and
variety of species).
<<Mmm, not so much the biotope that provides/limits flexibility as the fact the animals will be kept in a small (by comparison) closed system.  Best to focus on a single species within the niche for optimum results.>>
I mostly keep LPS corals with a few soft corals mixed in.  I will be keeping the same arrangement in the new tank.  Can you give some suggestions for lighting on the new tank?  My preference is metal halide...more bang for the buck with a more natural appearance in my opinion.  Likely 150w (10K) pendants will be more than adequate for the species you plan.>>
I currently have 2 pendant MH bulbs on about a 6 hour (midday) photoperiod and 3 VHO bulbs on about a
12 hour photoperiod.
<<I would increase the MH to 10-12 hours.>>
I like the concept of the Outer Orbit lighting systems but I don't think they make any setups that will provide enough light for my new tank.
<<I don't think so either, you'll probably be best served by using single pendants on this tank that can be positioned/spaced as necessary.>>
I also worry about having my VHOs and halides built into the same system meaning I would have to replace both if the controller for one failed.  I also don't need to worry about finishes on the lights as the tank will be built into the wall in a dedicated fish room.
<<Then look in to "retro" kits to save a buck.>>
I know that the recommended amount of water flow has increased substantially since I built the last tank.  My guess is that the new recommendations of 20 times tank volume applies more for SPS than LPS and soft corals.  Would you agree?
<<Not necessarily, all will benefit from vigorous water flow.>>
What would you think would be an appropriate amount of flow and how would you go about producing it?
<<A MINIMUM of 10x tank volume in a random/turbulent fashion.  The larger Tunze Stream pumps will work well for this size tank.  Or you can fashion a closed-loop system if you wish to keep equipment out of the tank.>>
The largest LPS I have now are a variety of Euphyllia, a Bubble, a Pearl, and several Favia.  Finally (sorry for the length of the post),
<<No worries mate.>>
do you have an opinion of the work of GEO (http://www.geosreef.com).  I have seen other large tanks built with his equipment and am considering ordering his kalkstirrer, calcium reactor, and protein skimmer.
<<Again no personal experience, but have heard good things from others re. Try hitting the BB’s (RC/Reefs.org) to see what those who have the equipment say about it.>>
Thank you for all of your help and recommendations!  Your site has long been a favorite of mine and I spread the word whenever possible.
Larry
<<You're welcome Larry.  Regards, EricR>>

New "Dream" System - 12/01/06
Hey crew,
<<Hey Bob!>>
I am in the midst of planning what I hope will be my ultimate dream system.
<<Lucky you!  Most hobbyists only ever get to dream about such things.  I myself was lucky enough to install a 500g SPS in-wall system about three years ago>>
My reason for writing in is that this is a sizable ($$$) undertaking and I don't want to make any serious mistakes.
<<Indeed my friend...not including livestock, I have more than $25,000 invested (per my wife anyway)>>
I am working with a custom tank builder who has made some recommendations for the system.  I would like to get some second (or third) opinions embarking on this venture.
<<Wise...the more the better>>
Main display - 620-gallon acrylic tank 114x42x30 with integrated overflow on back wall.  Display will be designed around SPS coral (primarily) and fish.
<<I'm happy to see you are choosing a particular "genus" of coral
to concentrate on, rather than going with the ubiquitous "mix reef" type of display...you will be more successful for it>>
Aquascape will be constructed with both a reef face and back reef/lagoon area in hopes of encouraging more natural behaviors and growth patterns from the inverts and fish.
<<Nice>>
Filtration will be located in separate room with dedicated ventilation.
<<Very smart...my system is built in to a wall, but I also installed an exhaust fan that has proven invaluable at removing moist/warm air from the space (assisted by 12v computer fans to keep things "moving")>>
Skimmer - AquaC EV2000
<<A fine skimmer (met the company owner a couple weeks ago in HI)>>
Calcium reactor - Korallin 4002
UV sterilizer - 120 watt Aqua UV
<<This is unnecessary and even unwanted, in my opinion.  Aside from the maintenance hassle to keep the unit efficient, it will destroy/reduce populations of beneficial micro-biota utilized (needed?) by the coral, et al>>
250-gallon sump with DSB and live rock.
<<Excellent...but I would limit the amount of rock/keep much of the sand bed "exposed">>
Sump has a lid, which will keep the DSB in near total darkness.
<<Not necessary...but not a problem either>>
This sump will feed all skimmers and other filtration hardware as well as provide location for GAC and other chemical media.
<<All good>>
200-gallon raceway style refugium with zones for macroalgae, pod culture and frag grow out.
<<Cool>>
Circulation provided by two Dolphin Ampmaster 4000 feeding off of sumps at a total return rate of 6000 gallons/hour.
<<Mmm...might do better to put one of these on a closed-loop...this is an awful lot of water to process/deal with going through a sump/overflows>>
Closed-loop pump - Sequence Dart return line will be connected to an Oceans Motion 4-way device
<<Very good...but do consider how you're going to get 6000 gph through that sump...efficiently.  I doubt you will be able to speak above the ruckus it will make.  And the overflows needed to handle such flow...mercy...>>
Eductors to be installed on all return lines.  Additional flow to be provided in display by a pair of Tunze Waveboxes.
<<Neat!>>
An Aquadyne controller will provide system monitoring and some automation.
<<Automation is key on such large systems>>
Here are my initial questions:  Is 450 gallons of sump/refugium overkill for the display?
<<Not at all, bigger the better.  Many public aquariums utilize sumps/refugiums that are "larger" than the display to take advantage of the intrinsic values re>>
Would the equipment sump/DSB work better if illuminated?
<<Not necessary>>
Should I plan on dosing with Kalkwasser as I begin to add SPS to the system (it appears from my research that many hobbyists do this and a calc reactor)
<<Indeed (I do)...utilizing a Kalkwasser reactor may prove beneficial>>
Is there anything in my initial filtration plan that causes concern?
<<Just the amount of water you plan to process through the sump>>
Obviously I will have lights, live rock, and other items, but this part is what has me scratching my head right now.
<<Ok>>
If I am successful with this set-up, I plan to expand into a coral grow-out area with additional capacity.
<<I see>>
I look forward to your thoughts.
Bob McCook
<<Do keep me posted on your progress.  Regards, Eric Russell>>

Equipment list for 500 gallon system   11/26/07
Hello,
<Hey Kirk, JustinN with you this fine evening>
And thank you for answering my question:
<No problems, is what we exist (as a group of like-minded individuals, not as a personal crusade! *grin*) for>
For my Xmas present this year, my wife has given me the OK to get a 450 (96x36x30) custom acrylic gallon tank for our new home.
<Very nice! Quite an undertaking, and quite a woman for letting it happen. *grin*>
The largest tank I have had to this point has been a 125gallon tank. I have been in the saltwater hobby for 8 years, but I must say this is an exciting but seemly overwhelming task.
<Can be daunting>
I know the choice of filtration, pumps, skimmers and crucial to the success of this project.
<Absolutely>
With that said, I would like to know what types of skimmers would you recommend for a tank of this size.  I am going to have a mixture of fish (large angelfish, triggers (pink tail or Bluethroat), butterfly (copperband), clowns, and possible a Naso tang) and corals (mostly being LFS and a clam or 2).  I am NOT going to keep SPS corals.
<Am sure you know this, but still feel I must mention that both the angels and the butterfly run a very high possibility of nipping both corals and clams to death.>
Skimmers
------------
The research I have done so far has led me to the following skimmers:
H&S
Bubble King
Deltec
Klaes
I would like to know if a Euroreef or ASM skimmers are a good choice for this large of a tank.  Whatever skimmer I decide on, it needs to be a well design skimmer AND produces a sufficient amount of skimmate.
<I believe any of these would be sufficient. Just to be safe, get a skimmer that is recommended for a tank larger than your overall water volume. That should give you the piece of mind you seek, regardless of manufacturer.>
Filtration/Pumps
-------------------
I am planning on a closed loop system, and for a pump choice it must be quiet and emit low heat.  I was thinking about Dolphin AMP Master pumps, but some other reefers have mentioned larger Bluelines, but I do not know much about them.  Can you offer any suggestions in this area?  How much water flow (i.e., gph/hr) should I plan for??
<Alas, I have no experience with either pump, but going on what I've heard, I hear nothing but glowing praise for the Blueline line of pumps. Sequence pumps also seem to carry a similar reputation. Sorry I'm not of more assistance here.>
Calcium Reactor
------------------
Is this a mandatory piece of equipment with a tank this size? If so, can you suggest some models for me to research.
<I would not consider it mandatory, no, but it will simplify and automate that much more of your maintenance. Korallin, Knop and Tunze all make readily available calcium reactors.>
Thanks for any advice you can give.
Kirk
<Well, wish I could say I had more specific recommendations for you, here, but I think you will do fine. Just read as much reviews of equipment as possible on online forums, talk to local reef clubs, and research before you purchase. Do keep us informed on this wonderful sounding project! -JustinN>

Shrimp as ray food, Oblivious questions re a large SW system   1/16/07
Hi I was wondering what kind of protein skimmer I should buy. I have a 150 gallon now with a carbon filter. Is a protein skimmer the same as a filter or do I need both?
<Mmm... a skimmer is a type of (marine) filtration device... Most folks find other filtration necessary...>
I am in the process of getting a 500 gallon tank. What is necessary to run such a marine tank?
<?>
Wet dry filter, Protein skimmers?
Any other suggestions on product?
<Yes... Please read... here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
Too much to relate... w/o knowing what you intend to keep, do what with...>
One more question, is ghost shrimp a sufficient diet for my ray?
<No>
Should I be giving Vitamins if so which ones?
<This and much more you need to know and will enjoy is posted/archived on our site... Please see WWM... learn to/use the indices, search tool...>
If anyone is in desperate need I can ship ghost shrimp to picky eaters in need. I am fortunate enough to live on the bay!!
Thanks Michelle
<Ahh, thank you for this kind offer. Bob Fenner>