Heavy Bioload and Algae Control in XL Marine System  3/30/08
Hi folks,
<<Mike.>>
I was wondering if you could offer some advice?
<<I will attempt to.>>
I have two 750 gal fish-only marine aquariums that share a common filtration system (sump, refugium, PS - i.e same water).
<<Okay.>>
Tank One has around 10 tangs
<<What species/genus?>>
(plus 13 other tank mates - butterflies, angels, percula clowns and Chromis) that do an awesome job keeping the tank clean of hair and other algae.
Tank Two contains a 9" Lion, 8" Cowfish, 5" Picasso and 5" Clown triggers, 9" French angel, 8" queen angel, 8" dogfaced puffer, 8" spiny box puffer, 9" Lunar Wrasse and finally a 10" Sohal tang.
<<Heavy bioload on both tanks.>>
This tank has an unsightly hair algae problem. Is there ANY creature that I can add that won't get pummeled by the Sohal or eaten by the triggers that might graze on the algae?
<<In such a rough and tumble tank I honestly would not recommend any invertebrate and I too would be concerned about adding any more fish, not only because of aggression but I would not want to add any more to the bioload. Even if we were able to find an animal that would consume the hair algae/Cyano it would only mask the real issue which is an overabundance of dissolved organics.>>
Would Nudibranch work?
<<Certainly not.>>
I don't think I can catch the Sohal to introduce other tangs and then reintroduce him - barring a harpoon.
<<I wouldn’t introduce more animals anyway, see above.>>
As you can tell there is a heavy bioload on the system.
<<Oh yes.>>
I do monthly water changes of about 125gal. About every two weeks I pull out 20lbs of macro algae from the refugium and I am experimenting with coil denitrators (but haven't get them working yet).
<<Sounds like you are on the right track to dealing with your nutrient issues, if feasible a larger refugium and or more water changes would help. Nutrients are accumulating somewhere, likely from the heavy bioload. See here for more details;
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nutrientcontrol.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/scottsh2ochgart.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/watchgantart.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm .>>
Thanks,
Mike
<<Welcome, Adam J.>>

450 Gallon “Office” Reef Tank, maint./op.  – 02/14/08
Hello.
<<Greetings>>
I know you've heard it before but this is a great site.
<<Ah but we never tire of it [grin]…many thanks>>
About a year ago I took over the maintenance of a 450 gallon reef tank where I work.
<<Mmm…I think I know where this is going…>>
It was installed about a year before I got here and from the beginning it has been a constant mess of algae (red slime and green hair).
<<Not atypical with these “office” tanks. I don’t know just how many such queries we receive/have received…but the handful I have dealt with over the past three years have all been pretty much the same as this one…long ongoing issues with dead/dying fish and “big” nuisance algae problems. Don’t misunderstand, I’m not grousing at you. I’m sure you have been placed in charge of this tank with little to no background for it and are simply trying to “get a handle” on things, so to speak. My beef is with the companies that set up such systems but aren’t willing to pay for a professional service to maintain it…even if only part-time to get things back on track and to help keep them there. Now, it’s possible you/this tank are located in an area where a professional aquarium service is not available, in which case this should have been taken under consideration. Bottom line…Unless there happens to already be an experienced hobbyist available on staff with the time/inclination to care for such a tank…such end results as mentioned are inevitable. Okay, I’ll get off my soapbox now…>>
We will have a month or 2 periodically when it cleans up but it always goes downhill.
<<Do you have a regular maintenance routine (for water changes, filter cleaning, feeding, et al)? Are feedings of this tank “restricted” to keep just anyone passing the tank from tossing in food to the “ever hungry” fishes?>>
Here is the setup, 2 Little Giant pumps rated for 700gph,
<<Is this all the flow/water movement available to this tank? If so…not nearly enough>>
a 40 gallon sump with bio-balls,
<<A reef system requires lower Nitrate levels than these bio-balls will likely let you attain. Best to replace these with live rock or better yet…chemical media (Poly-Filter and Carbon)>>
A ProClear Aquatic 150 Aquarium Protein Skimmer,
<<Mmm, this skimmer is rated by the manufacturer for a 150g system… Looking at it/its size, I doubt it is efficient enough for even half that. I VERY MUCH suggest a larger and better skimmer for your tank. A “quality” unit sized for your system won’t be cheap… My first choice would be a skimmer from Euro-Reef, but do also have a look at the offerings from AquaC, H&S, Tunze, and ASM>>
2 Blue Line Electronic Metal Halide Ballast with 400 watt lights,
<<What are the dimensions of this 450 gallon display? My guess is this reef tank needs at least three, and likely four (maybe more) such lighting fixtures>>
and about 150-200 lbs. of live rock. Now it has 3 three striped damsels,
<<Even in a large tank as this, these fish can make future additions difficult…can be real terrors>>
a lawnmower blenny, flame hawk, 2 maroon clowns, 3 orange tailed damsels, about 15 blue legged/scarlet hermit crabs, 10-15 turbo snails, and a large coral banded shrimp.
<<I doesn’t appear that overcrowding is an issue here…at least not now>>
Any tangs or other fish we introduce don't last more than a couple months.
<<Any clues as to why? Disease? Starvation? Aggression?>>
It has a plate, brain and mushroom coral and some polyps. Sorry I don't know the scientific names, but I have no prior aquarium experience and had to learn everything as I went (much from this site).
<<Ah, much as I suspected then…please do keep reading researching. If you haven’t come across it yet, let me point you toward this article on maintenance (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/maintenance/marineMaint.htm). Be sure to follow/read among the links in blue at the top of the page, as well as doing some keywords searches re “livestock selection,” “marine feeding,” etc.>>
The parameters are Ammonia =0, Alk=2.5,
<<What about Calcium?>>
pH=8.4, NO2=0, NO3=10, Salinity 1.021,
<<The Salinity is much too low…please adjust to NSW levels (1.025/1.026)>>
PO4= .4
<<Likely the source of your nuisance alga…should be 0.02 or less. You need to locate the source of the Phosphate and eliminate it. Two major areas for investigation are your source water (used for evaporation top-up and saltwater make-up), and over feeding>>
From my research I understand that this is not a very good setup for this size tank.
<<Addition of a large vegetable refugium and a properly sized quality skimmer jump to mind…as well as some purposeful chemical filtration gear>>
Our goal is to have a clean tank that will support some bigger fish that live more than 2 months, and a lot less maintenance.
<<Mmm…>>
My question is would you recommend us converting to a FO or FOWLR tank?
<<Yes… Though hardly “maintenance free” themselves, I think a FOWLR system is a better choice here. Such a switch will allow you to keep with the existing lighting (no need for the additional fixtures), thus allowing you to put that money toward that new skimmer and chemical filtration media>>
From your site I understand they are much easier to keep.
<<A matter of opinion/perspective…not necessarily “easier” (though careful species selection will play a large role), but possibly less “involved/complex.” Don’t get the impression that not going reef will let you “ignore” the tank. It will still require some daily attention/observation…and routine maintenance (partial water changes, timely attention to filter media, etc.) is still paramount>>
If so, what pumps and skimmer would you recommend?
<<The return pumps you have are fine for now, but regardless if you stay REEF or go FOWLR you need more water movement. You can buy/add simple powerheads for this, but in a tank of this size the Tunze Stream pump will yield much better results and require fewer individual units. A pair of 6101s with controller would suffice if you have the money for it, else maybe 3-4 of the 6060s. If money is really tight (would hope the company would “put out” for good of this tank), or if it comes down to the Tunze Streams vs. a good skimmer, you can turn to the Koralia line of circulation powerheads for the “extra” flow needed here>>
Is the sump big enough and do you have any other recommendations?
<<Bigger would be better. What are your limitations here (money…space)? Do feel free to write me back with more detail/info on the possibilities for/companies’ stance on this system and we can chat further>>
Thanks,
Steve
<<Happy to help Steve…please let me know if I can assist further. Eric Russell>>

 

Re: 450 Gallon Office Reef Tank- 02/15/08
Hello, thanks again for all the advice.
<<Hey Steve…hope it was of some value>>
Here is some more information.
<<Excellent>>
We did have a professional aquarium service come out for the first year and a half (the one that installed it) but it was very expensive and the tank was still filled with algae and fish didn't last very long so we decided to cancel it.
<<Mmm, okay… We could go in to “looking before you leap,” “referrals,” and “ultimate responsibility”…but let’s not belabor the point now>>
Here is what I do to maintain the tank. A 10%-15% water change every 2 weeks, chemical testing every week, replace R/O filters every 3 months (prefilter, carbon filter, deionization filter), feed 4-5 times a week 1 cube emerald entrée (no one else feeds fish)
<<Yikes! Not near enough, mate! Please don’t starve your livestock…a couple small feedings per day, please!>>
Clean skimmer as needed (every 2 or 3 days).
<<Very good…but I am “certain” you need a bigger/better skimmer>>
The tank dimensions are 4 ft deep, 44" wide, and 5 ft. long, and it has a bowed front.
<<Sounds like a very striking display…and I would suggest a third 400w light fixture if you stay with the reef>>
I don't know why the fish die, except a powder blue tang had ich.
<<Very common with this fish, and goes back to researching/selecting proper livestock…and proper quarantine/hospital procedures>>
We will usually introduce some new fish over time and they look good for awhile (2-3 months) but then one would die and pretty soon all but the hardiest are gone.
<<Something terribly wrong here…and not evident re your previous water chemistry values. Barring protozoan and/or viral infection, I suspect that trio of Dascyllus aruanus>>
We have been communicating with another aquarium service company and my company is more than willing to do what is necessary, I just think we had some bad advice before and are a little hesitant.
<<Indeed…and I “do” understand how this can happen…>>
We have a quote to upgrade our tank from this new company that is around $6000.00 and we are willing to do it, but the debate is whether to keep it reef or go FO.
<<Is up to you…though my vote is for FOWLR. Is much more natural/beneficial, in my opinion>>
We are actually having a different company come out today that is giving us an estimate for converting it to FO. Once it is upgraded we will have it maintained at least once a month by a professional, and I will do the rest.
<<Very good>>
What are the benefits for having a FOWLR over a FO?
<<The FOWLR system provides a “real” and natural environment for the fishes. The live rock provides sanctuary (hiding/sleeping places), along with needed browsing/food sources for many fish species>>
Again thanks a lot and hopefully we can save some fish lives.
Steve
<<I am pleased you/your company are taking proper steps to reconcile this tank. I wish you luck with choosing a new service, and please do let me know if I can be of further assistance. Regards, Eric Russell>>

Re: Newly Established 400G Aquarium... maint. mostly  1/9/08
Thanks for the feedback as always.
<Welcome Bryan>
I have been doing some reading on your FAQs regarding Calc Reactors. My concern/misunderstanding has always been and continues to be relating to system pH. First, I am guessing effluent pH is the measure of pH inside the calc reactor, is this accurate?
<Yes... the induced reaction twixt the solubilized CO2 into carbonic acid and the carbonate of the feeder media/stock...>
As I understand it the calc reactor will boost Alk and calcium.
<Yes>
Further, I understand Alk provides pH stability and I also understand you can turn off CO2 via a controller to stop pH from getting any lower.
<Correct>
However, I do not see a method of increasing or boosting pH if it remains low w/ the CO2 off.
<There are a few ways... many folks utilize another "outside" source of buffer/pH booster... some... Kalk>
Is the design such that given a finely tuned calc reactor, there is no need to boost pH as it will be stable?
<Mmm, depending on what else is going on in the system... and the rest of its make-up... Imagine this system as being semi-closed... with acidifying influences (food, time going by) being added... I STRONGLY encourage you (semi-related) to look into, add an ozonizer (BIG hint)>
Given the use of a calc reactor, does it completely eliminate the need for outside supplementation except in rare cases?
<Yes... can... along with water changes, foods, ALL essential nutrients, materials for stasis can be easily supplied>
Given a need to increase pH in this design w/o the use of Kalk, what supplementation would you recommend?
<Would depend on the livestock... there could be instances where boosted metabolism (intense lighting mostly) might call for such... But not likely. Cheers, BobF>
Bryan Heitman