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FAQs about Morays Eel Compatibility
Related FAQs: Moray Behavior, Moray Eels 1, Moray
Eels 2, Moray Identification, Moray Selection, Moray
Systems, Moray Feeding, Moray
Disease, Moray Reproduction, Zebra
Moray Eels, Snowflake Morays,
Freshwater Moray Eels,
Other
Marine Eels,
Related Articles: Moray
Eels Bite, But Are They Venomous? by Marco Lichtenberger,
Moray Eels, Zebra
Morays, Snowflake Morays, Ribbon
Morays, The
"Freshwater" Moray Eels,
Freshwater Moray Eels
by Marco Lichtenberger,
Other
Marine Eels,
Most morays are piscivorous (fish eaters) and will consume fishes they
can catch.
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Dwarf et. al Lionfishes?
With other Moray species? |
No sir, not something likely, not something likely....
Often real trouble |
Golden Dwarf Moray, sel./comp. 11/15/08 Hello
<Hi Alison.> After reading your site for hours and learning a lot of new
things, I still have a problem I just know that you guys will be able to help me
with. I have fallen in love with pictures of those cute little golden dwarf
morays but am unsure if he would be well suited to either of the two tanks I
currently have set up. I would like to know your advice as to which tank he
would do better in. Both tanks are reef-style. First I have a 30 gallon tank
with a dwarf/zebra lionfish in it. <Depending on its size and the size of
the moray it may be able to swallow the eel.> I was also thinking about
adding a Longnose hawk to this tank. The second tank is a 90 gallon reef with a
35 gallon refugium. The tankmates in this tank would be two false percula
clownfish <Can be eaten if the G. melatremus is grown and the clowns are
small.> , a purple tang, 3 flasher wrasses <?may become prey, depending on
size.> , 2 mandarin dragonets, <see above.> 3 cleaner shrimp, 2 fire
shrimp and a peppermint shrimp <Last but not least the listed shrimps may be
(partially) eaten. They are more likely to become prey than the fish unless the
latter are still very young.> and some snails. Please let me know your
opinion - I really respect the advice you give on your website. Thanks. Alison.
<As you see it will somewhat depend on the size of the eel and the possible
tankmates. The 30 gallon tank seems better if the lion still is small, but as
you may have read in the moray FAQs lionfish are not ideal tankmates for morays,
although your combination would be safer than other ones (e.g. with P.
volitans). A smaller G. melatremus would fit well into the community tank, but a
larger one may be a danger to the shrimps (some recognize them as beneficial
cleaners, but not all individuals are that smart) and the fish smaller than
about 3-3.5 inches. I hope this will help you with your decision. Marco.>
Eels in a 75G 10/14/08 Hello,
<Hi.> I have a 75G moray eel tank with a Chainlink moray and a Whitecheek
moray. <The latter is a common name used for Echidna rhodochilus (see
http://www.jjphoto.dk/fish_archive/aquarium_salt/echidna_rhodochilus.htm), which
only reaches around 1 foot, while the Chainlink (Echidna catenata) get more than
2 times that long and easily 10 times heavier. Is this your eel? Big size
differences can result in the larger moray eating the smaller specimen, even
with the more peaceful Echidna species.> I am looking to get another eel,
either another Chainlnk or maybe a Snowflake moray. What would you suggest on
getting and will 3 eels be ok in a 75G? <3 eels could be okay in a 75 gallon
tank, if they were smaller species. However, the Chainlink moray will grow to
medium size (can reach at least 32 inches, some apparently less reliable sources
state even almost twice this) and I would not suggest another eel in this
specific tank, especially not before the identity of the Whitecheek moray is
clarified, also with regard to the difference in size your two may reach. If you
want. you can send a picture for its ID.> Thanks for your time. <Welcome.
Marco.>
Re: Eels in a 75 G –
10/16/08 Thanks for the reply, <Welcome.> the white cheek is
the one you listed (it's green with white on both sides of mouth) and the
Chainlink is the Echidna catenata. Both eels are around 1.5 feet. Would I be
better of just letting those 2 eels be happy in the 75g instead of adding
another eel? <Yes, and watch out for possible aggression if a size difference
develops with time.> thanks in advance. <Cheers. Marco.>
Re: Another
Ribbon Eel Question/comment, comp. 8/20/08
Hi Bob,
<Brian>
Very disappointed to report this but I need your advise
<advice>
to figure out what happened this weekend. My ribbon eel passed away and I'm
trying to decide what to do.
<Bury it>
My eel was very active of late and would swim about the tank about every hour or
so (it never ate when swimming, seemed more curious about the surroundings than
anything). It ate whenever a part of it was inside of the pvc maze but never
when completely free in the tank. Nothing surprising to me here so far.
This Saturday, I came into my living room and saw that my eel was swimming
backwards in the tank.
<Rhinomuraena... and morays in general, can/do swim in this manner... useful for
"backing up" into holes...>
I looked closer and saw that it had a huge cut (or tear) on the neck below its
gills. It was writhing and tying itself in a knot to pull away from whatever
caused the problem. This was painful to watch as I have no idea what happened.
It clearly suffered a fatal injury and was trying to spare its life. I moved it
to the sump to observe but it died twenty minutes later. I have a few ideas
about what happened and could use your advise to narrow the possibilities. Here
goes:
1. It somehow swam into my Vortec powerhead. There is a filter blocking the
intake, but the output is still open and maybe its head found a way to enter and
get the fatal cut. I could put a screen over the output to prevent this from
happening in the future.
<Mmm, doubtful... the discharge pressure should prevent this, but... maybe a
good idea to screen as you say>
2. It got curious about my Coral banded shrimp and got pinched across the neck.
The claws of this animal are really strong and if it pulled away while being
pinched could have ripped itself open. It was a very clean cut so it still seems
probable.
<Mmm, maybe...>
3. It aggravated my golden dwarf moray eel.
<Oh, a definite possibility here>
While there was no food to be fought over, there might be a possibility that my
dwarf moray just bit it in defense. the cut was so clean that I doubt that this
was the cause. The moray has been very reclusive since I got the ribbon but
still ate and never tried to share space with the ribbon eel. Seems unlikely but
I'm open to suggestions.
<Not a good idea to mix Ribbon Eels with other Muraenids>
4. It tangled with my Purple tang and caught the defense spike on its tail.
The tang seemed to ignore it but their tail bones are very sharp. Could this
have caused the untimely end.
<A smaller possibility>
5. It cut itself on a rock or pipe exploring. Not likely in my mind but still
not sure.
<Smaller...>
6. Bristle worms or hermit crabs? That's everything else I have.
<Nah>
I'm so disappointed. I never sent a video of my success and feeding because I
thought I'd have more time. I'm prepared to get rid of anything that would
impact my future success. Gosh I'm frustrated!
<I'd be separating/removing the other Moray. Bob Fenner>
Eel <comp.> and Dissolved Oxygen Problems.
– 8/8/8
Hi Crew,
<Hello Adam.>
Let me thank you in advance for the great site and your help with my concerns.
I have scoured over your FAQs but haven't found the answers to my question.
I'm a relative newbie to the marine aquarium hobby and have certainly made more
than my fair share of mistakes thus far. I cycled my tank for six weeks with
live rock and have had fish in there for a little more than five weeks. So my
tank is almost three months old.
I have had two weeks of hell with my aquarium. I have resolved most issues so I
will not waste your time going over everything that has happened. I have two
main concerns I need help with, but will go over the basics first.
Set-up:
100 gallon FOWLR tank
2 Emperor 400 Filters
65 lbs of live rock
100lbs of sand
Inhabitants:
2ft zebra moray eel
10in snowflake eel
1 1/4in dwarf lionfish
<Might become prey to the snowflake, when it gets older.>
1 1/4in fu man chu lionfish
3/4in sphex lionfish
1in flame angel
2in starry-eyed puffer
<Arothron stellatus? Not recommended for any tank smaller than 1000 (one
thousand) gallons. This fish can reach 30 inches for sure and was even reported
at almost 50 inches in nature.>
3 1/2in giant Hawkfish
<When all these fish grow it will be too much for your tank. You’ll likely run
into water quality and stress problems.>
Water Conditions:
Ammonia = 0
Nitrite = 0
Nitrate = 15ppm
PH = 8.1
Temp = 78-81F relatively constant
Problem #1
Yesterday morning on my way out to work I saw my dog whining next my aquarium. I
look in the tank and my zebra moray eel is not in there. Somehow he figured out
how to get out of the tank, and probably fell about four feet onto hard tile. (I
have since thoroughly secured my lid)
<Good, that’s recommended for all moray eels and most other eel shaped fishes.>
My guess is he was out of the water for at least an hour but I don't know
exactly. To my surprise he was still alive all be it a bit dried up and dirty.
Anyways, I grabbed him ran some fresh water from the faucet over him to remove
dirt and dead skin from him. He lost a lot of skin and slime. I put him back in
the tank and had to go to work. When I got home he was still alive. Actually all
things considered not doing too bad. He is obviously very stressed and isn't
moving around much at all, but he is able to move. Considering the skin loss he
hasn't lost much color, and eyes look fine. Only the very tip of his tail is
whitish probably dead skin I could easily remove but I've been trying to just
leave him alone and relax. All day yesterday he was breathing very heavily.
Today his breathing seems to have returned to about normal. Although he is able
to move, parts of his body don't look quite right. I fear he may have some
internal injuries from the fall. I'm optimistic he is going to pull through, but
cant be certain.
<You did everything right and also your dog seems to be educated very well,
because he did not kill or carry away the eel.>
Yesterday I did a 25 gallon water change so I could vacuum up any excess dead
skin in tank and also I figured his recovery would be aided by as high quality
of water as I could provide.
<Very good.>
The local fish store person advised that I put this stuff called Melafix Marine
into the tank to help prevent a bacterial infection on his skin. I put the first
dose in there yesterday but all the other fish seemed not to like it much. I
guess my question is in your opinion do you think that I should continue with
the Melafix treatment? After watching my other fish's reaction to it I'd prefer
to just keep monitoring water conditions and do water changes as needed and
discontinue the treatment. It says that stuff is all natural and safe to use in
tank but after reading your site I'm very hesitant to add anymore of it. I would
appreciate any advice you could offer on this situation.
<The recovery can take several months, you’ll need some patience. I would not
rely on the product you are using, but rather on good water quality and, when he
starts eating again (can take a while, he went through a lot of stress), a
vitamin enriched, varied food.>
Problem #2
For the past week or so I have been noticing that some of my fish seem to have a
bit of laboured breathing.
<I’m not surprised seeing your stocking list and setup.>
My Hawkfish especially has been spending much of his time up near the surface
and filters, also I notice the flame angel and the eels poking their heads out
of the top of the water. So my concern is that my tank has poor dissolved oxygen
levels.
<You can bet so.>
But with my eels I have to keep my tank lid tight and secure.
<Right. People with morays in coral reef tanks and strong illumination often
apply nets, eggcrate and meshes instead of lids.>
I suspect that this may be the culprit of the poor oxygen. (Actually that may be
the reason the eel escaped?)
<Possible, but we’ll never know for sure. Does it have enough shelter? Does the
other moray or any other fish stress him out?>
I really have no idea how to improve this being that I have to keep the lid
closed tight. I tried putting my powerhead back in the tank to improve water
flow but the currents are way to strong for my small fish.
<You could get two or three smaller ones with large outlets like Koralia or
Tunze NanoStream models. They'll produce a soft current, but still sufficient
surface agitation.>
Could you please advise me of the safest and most economical way to improve my
dissolved oxygen content considering my lid issues. Is there any way to test for
dissolved oxygen concentration?
<Yes, dissolved oxygen can be tested (e.g. liquid test by Salifert), but usually
you do not need this test. What I would do is: 1: Re-think the combination and
number of fish in your tank. It should be reduced. I know this is no advice one
wants to hear, but believe this will be inevitable to get a stable system in
your case. 2: A skimmer will drastically increase the dissolved oxygen and also
reduce the organic pollution, which additionally inhibits the uptake of oxygen
into the blood of the fishes. I would modify the lid to be able to use a skimmer
or install an overflow and a refugium/sump with a skimmer (see WWM re). The
second possibility would be more expensive, but also more beneficial. 3. Small
powerheads pointing towards the surface will increase surface agitation and
consequently gaseous exchange. Small diagonally arranged holes in the back of
the lid as well as opening the lid, when you are at home will help to exchange
the air above the water.>
Thank you again for all you help and hard work! Adam
<I hope the suggestions above will help. Cheers, Marco.>
Re: Eel and Dissolved Oxygen
Problems. + a new problem, eel/puffer incomp. incident – 8/9/08
Hello Again Crew
<Hi Adam.>
Thanks for the advice Marco. I'm trying to figure out what would be best
to do.
<You are welcome.>
I had another big problem arise last night. While my zebra eel was
relaxing and recovering last night my starry puffer (Yes, an Arothron
stellatus) began viciously attacking his tail areas.
<A common problem of puffer/Arothron combinations, especially when the
moray becomes sick/weak.>
It was not like a threat display he was biting him hard, as if he
thought my eel was food. I immediately removed the puffer to a trash can
and put a power head in there for overnight. That was extremely
frustrating being that two have lived together for almost five weeks and
have never had a problem.
<That’s not a long time. Let’s talk about successful tank mates in a
year and again in a few years.>
While I would like to believe this was an isolated incident that will go
away if I reintroduce the puffer, my gut tells me there is no way it
will work in the future.
<My gut agrees. There is no chance this fish will work in your tank.>
And based on your advice here is my tentative plan.
1) Return the puffer to the LFS (eliminates aggression and stress for my
other fish, also he eats the most and excretes the most so removing him
will reduce the bioload on my system, and like you said he will grow to
be giant sized so won't be suitable for my tank in the future anyways).
<I absolutely agree with you. The puffer does not fit in there.>
2) Buy a protein skimmer and figure how to outfit my tank with it
(Hopefully, help with water quality and dissolved oxygen issues you
mentioned).
<I’d first figure out how to outfit the tank and then buy an appropriate
model. See WWM re different skimmer types and models. If you have the
funds available go for a refugium/sump, this will give you the
possibility to apply a DSB (deep sand bed, see WWM) and increase the
water volume. Other skimmers will work too in terms of oxygen and
protein removal.>
Sound like a reasonable plan for the short term?
<Yes.>
With respect to my fish combination and bioload. Like you said, yes that
is the most disheartening advice to hear as I love my fish I have. I am
least willing to part with my zebra eel, Hawkfish (I realize at some
point he will be too big for the tank but would prefer to keep him as
long as possible) and my lionfish. So maybe just see how it goes with
all my fish minus the puffer?
Do you think with a skimmer the remaining fish could become a stable
system?
<Short term: yes, but long term (when your fish are grown): no. As you
note the Hawkfish will have to go, and you likely will have to choose
between keeping the snowflake eel and the dwarf lion and flame angel in
the long run, although the latter combination might be solved by the
snowflake eel itself when it reaches maturity. I guess the eel will
leave the two slightly larger lion species alone, and although their
stingers are a danger to the moray, this might work.>
Thanks again for your input! Adam
<Cheers, Marco.>
|
Green wolf eel and Jeweled Moray 07/03/08
Hi everybody hope all is well...
<Hello Josh.>
So at one of my local LFS they have this beautiful green wolf eel (Congrogadus
subducens), it is beautiful, strangely it is red in color.
<Yes, they sometimes occur in this color. There is some variability, and in
addition they are able to change their color to some degree.>
instead of green and it is about 12 inches long and as think as a ping pong
ball.
At home I have a jeweled moray who is about 22 inches long and as think as a
tennis ball. My question is would I be able to put the green wolf eel in my tank
without it becoming a quick snack for the jeweled?
<I have seen this combination, but with animals of equal size. Personally, I
would not risk losing the Wolf eel, because it would likely fit into the M.
lentiginosa.>
Thanks for your time. Josh
<You are welcome. Marco.>
|
Green Moray Eel – System
04/09/08
Hey Guys,
<Hi.>
Just had a quick question on green moray eels. I'm going to be buying a 300
gallon tank 6x3x2.5 high and wondered if I could house a green moray in it into
adulthood?
<I don’t think so. For a few years it may be okay, but eventually you’ll need a
bigger tank.>
I was wanting to buy a young one and raise it up and figured if it was fed a
maintenance diet instead of power fed it would never grow to be as big as they
do in the wild
<No, they will reach their 6 to 7 feet when properly cared for.>
( I've heard Tesselata eels generally don't grow to much more than 4 to 5 feet
in captivity so maybe about the same length?).
<G. favagineus stays generally a little smaller than G. funebris. Those reports
of very large (up to 10 feet) Tesselata Eels are not confirmed by science, might
be stories or rare exceptions.>
Don't mistake maintenance for starvation diet lol would never do that just more
fed in moderation. He would be the only resident in the tank
<He would eat most tank mates anyway.>
(until an adult were I would like to add some fish too small to be eaten) and
the tank would be over skimmed just more concerned if he would be comfortable in
a tank that size. Just don't have room for a larger tank and have always been in
love with the green morays so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
<My recommendation would be to choose a less dangerous and smaller moray eel
species, something below 5 feet. There is a huge selection. Have a look at an
adult in some public aquarium or the ocean and I’m sure you’ll re-think the 300
gallon idea. See http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i1/eels/Eels.htm for
experiences with large Green Morays in the home aquarium.>
Thanks again!
<Good luck with what you decide to do, Marco.>
Green Moray Eel, now
Enchelynassa canina – System 04/09/08 4/13/08
Hey Marco,
<Hi.>
Thanks for the reply.
<You are welcome.>
If not the green then my other choice was the Viper moray (Enchelynassa canina),
which are supposed to get to an adult size of 5 feet. I was just wondering if I
imported a large one
<Smaller specimens are easier to transport and adapt better to captive life. I
think your tank could support an adult individual of this species if it's well
filtered and skimmed.>
would you think it would ignore fish say the size of a dwarf angel being it
would be too small to bother with trying to eat?
<I do not think dwarf angels would be safe, but I have not tried them as
tankmates. In fact I have not kept E. canina personally, but can only comment
from experiences with other fish-eating morays of similar size. Mine (e.g. G.
favagineus) have eaten even smaller fish over night, when those were asleep, but
I am planning to try tiny Gobiodon okinawae somewhere in the future when I have
enough Acropora for them.>
Just thought it would look sweet to have a bunch of small colorful and peaceful
fish and to have a big ominous beast lurking around in the shadows.
<While the idea sounds reasonable (this is done in large public aquaria with
very large morays and very small fish), it will be difficult to do at home.
Chances are best when the little fish are in the tank first, and if these fish
are still juvenile specimens. Be aware that an adult Enchelynassa canina is a
very dangerous pet that can easily mutilate your hand or arm if given the
chance.>
Thanks in advance for any help you can give me on it
<Cheers, Marco.>
Re: Green Moray Eel,
now Enchelynassa canina – Tank mates 04/14/08
Hey Marco,
<Hello.>
Thanks for all the advice so far. If not small fish with the viper moray
do you think a good sized meleagris puffer would make a good tankmate?
<No, I’d bet a 1 foot puffer (the maximum reported 19 inches will be
hard to find) will be eaten. Chances for small fish (size below two
inches, no dwarf angels as suggested in the earlier email) would be more
promising. A large grouper might work, but while the eel would likely be
able to live in your 300 gallon tank (with good filtration), I doubt a
massive 2 foot grouper, which would be the size necessary to be (mostly)
safe from your 4 foot moray, would do well in there.>
Just don't see puffers to high on most animals like to eat list.
<I have seen morays eat puffers without being intoxicated. But a moray
may die when a puffer manages to puff in the predator’s mouth,
eventually you may lose both. There were pictures of such coincidences
on the net, and even porcupine fishes were found inside of larger
morays.>
Incredible as the vipers morays are it would be nice to have some other
movement in the tank.
<Sure the temptation to try tank mates is there, but from my aesthetic
point of view, a tank with one large moray is impressive enough. If you
provide sufficient water quality, you can have many different corals and
turn the tank into a nice reef section, and possibly even try some small
coral dwellers like Okinawa gobies.
As a side note: Since you considered a G. funebris first, do you know
Gymnothorax castaneus aka fox moray aka chestnut moray? Looks very much
the same and usually stays shorter than 5 feet. It’s from the Eastern
Pacific and rarely traded. Nonetheless, the same problems are to be
expected re tank mates, danger to yourself as with the E. canina.
Cheers, Marco.>
|
Swallow size guidelines for
moray eels? – 02/02/2008
Hello, there!
<Hi Derry.>
To begin with, thank you for the INCREDIBLY informative site you have here.
<Glad you like it.>
My question: Is there any rule of thumb for moray eels and how large a prey item
a given moray can consume?
<Prey 1.5-2 times its girth is generally manageable by most moray specimens,
some large mouthed ones like Chanomuraena spp. or Strophidon sathete may manage
more. High bodied fish can be folded to fit. But the problem here is not only
what they may be able to swallow at once. Morays can also form a knot with their
body while biting a larger fish and pull their head through the knot taking a
chunk out of the fish. I have personally observed this with many species ranging
from tiny Echidnas to Giant morays (G. javanicus). However, this is rather the
exception than the rule, most specimens won’t try that with tougher tank mates
of 1/3 to 1/2 of the length of the eel. It’s also useful to introduce the moray
last and not add new fish at feeding time.>
For example, boa constrictors can swallow anything roughly double the girth of
their own thickness.
<Interesting.>
I'm considering getting one of the smaller morays, but first I want to make sure
the rest of my livestock is big enough to avoid becoming an entree!
<Will highly depend on the moray species and the tank mates. Zebra morays are
usually peaceful with regard to fishes and rarely eat small ones, they will
mostly eat crustaceans, though. Snowflake (E. nebulosa), Chainlink (E. catenata)
and Banded morays (E. polyzona) will occasionally eat smaller fishes, apparently
especially when reaching maturity. Many Gymnothorax spp., and Enchelycore spp.
as well as some others will in most cases eat or kill anything shorter than 1/3
of their total length.>
Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
<Hope that helps. Choose your moray carefully. Also see:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/morays.htm , http://www.wetwebmedia.com/moraysii.htm,
and the linked FAQs on compatibility (and feeding… hehe), and
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i1/eels/Eels.htm.>
Thanks again! Derry.
<Cheers, Marco.>
Viper moray care – 01/07/2008
Hey guys, Sam again.
<Hi Sam.>
My LFS just got in a young viper moray
<Nice.>
and I’m positive on what it is, but I can’t find any FAQs about its care. I’m
pretty sure they don’t get too big.
<How did you come to that conclusion?>
Anyways, I was wondering about its care and if I could keep it with my G. tile.
<Unlikely. Basically all morays referred to as Viper moray (maybe one smaller
exception see below) will try to eat your G. tile as adults.>
If not that’s fine I’m willing to set up a larger species tank. Any info would
be extremely helpful.
<First you should try to find out what species it is. Several morays are called
Viper moray in trade. Enchelycore nigricans is known under this name, can get to
almost 3 feet, care is similar to the Dragon moray (see WWM re). Enchelynassa
canina has also entered the trade as Viper moray. It reaches almost 5 ft and
consequently needs something like 180 gallons for itself as an adult. Other
Enchelycore spp. have been called Viper moray, too, they all have elongated
tubes as anterior nostrils, while the Enchelynassa has 2 flaps at each nostril.
Enchelycore carychoa is the only one I know that has been traded that’s smaller
than 2 ft, it can be recognized by white spots around the pores at its upper an
lower jaw, but it’s usually called Chestnut moray. If you can mail a picture of
the head and maybe the body we could help you to ID this eel.>
Thanks for your time, Fischer.
<You are welcome. Marco.>
Moray Eel order of
introduction to the new system – 01/07/2008
I am planning consolidation of White Mouth (18 in) and Hawaiian Dragon (15
in) into the same system. Both are pretty laid back and fed mostly frozen
silverside fish.
<Usual warning: Feed a varied diet with clam flesh, mussel flesh, prawns,
scallops, squid, fish, and add vitamins from time to time. Your eels will
probably thank you by having a long and healthy life.>
What order would you suggest for moving them? My plan is to move the white mouth
first and introducing dragon a week later.
<This coincides with my recommendation. Although I would have kept the
Enchelycore preferably in its own system, what you suggest has been done
successfully at least for some time. Be prepared to remove the White Mouth or
the Dragon in the case of severe aggression, though. In addition provide enough
hiding spots for both of them and ensure the tank is 150 gallons or larger. It’s
good the Dragon is slightly smaller. The first nights and the first few feedings
will be the most critical moments.>
Thank you in advance for your help. Steven
<Good luck. Marco.>
Gymnothorax pictus comp. –
01/06/2008
Hi there,
<Hello Hilke.>
I just inherited my Bruce, a Gymnothorax pictus from my friend. He is almost a
meter long and I'm not sure how old he is or will be.
<An adult, can get 10+ years.>
He had a friend, a Zebra eel, but she died after stress related circumstances
(heater broke and my friend didn’t check temperature, very stupid!).
Now I have this beautiful eel in a 566 litre tank and he is a very active eel. I
would like to give him some new friend(s). Can you please advise me which ones
are good friends?
Thanks Hilke
<The Zebra eel was a very good choice attaining a similar size and being even
more harmless (for a moray). Eels would be a good choice, anyway, especially
more peaceful species like the Chainlink E. catenata (only a few reach the size
of Bruce), or the Tiger Reef Eel Scuticaria tigrina. Both are a little on the
reclusive side compared to the Peppered Moray G. pictus. Only try eels of a
similar size to Bruce, too small ones may be consumed. However, when you think
about more aggressive species they should preferably be a little smaller than
the G. pictus. His compatibility with other fishes will depend on his
personality. What generally works best with larger eels are groupers (in nature
many morays hunt together with groupers), however it will be difficult to get a
grouper large enough to be surely safe with the moray and still small enough to
live in a 150 gallon. An adult Rock Cod or Panther Grouper may work, given
sufficient filtration. Others had success with large lionfish and puffers, but
those cases in which such communities fail tragically keep me from recommending
them. Be sure to read a lot about any tankmates you may think of and ensure your
filtration and water change schedule can support another big fish. Hope that
helps, also see
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/moraycompfaqs.htm. Cheers, Marco.>
Dragon moray comp. –
01/04/2008
Happy new year and thanks for the quick response
<Happy new year to you, too… please attach earlier e-mails to new queries, so we
know who answered your last question.>
, I did forget to mention that I am planning to upgrade to a 1000 litre tank
within the next 12 months as I love my Queen Angel and I know it could reach
45cm. The only thing stopping me at the moment is the size of my apartment,
which will not be an issue for much longer.
I would normally wait, but this is the first Dragon Moray I have come across in
the UK after 3 - 4 years of searching. Do you think if I improve the filtration
as you suggested, I would get away with keeping the eel in my current set up for
the short term until I upgrade. If so what upgrades would you recommend?
<I would not risk the lives of your beloved Queen Angel, your puffer or any
other fishy inhabitants by putting a Dragon Moray in the same tank. Even other
morays of similar size often flee from Enchelycore eels. They can take chunks
out of large fishes and fold angels to fit them into their stomach.>
All my fish are really healthy and I do regular water checks and changes with
R.O.. water. I am even considering trading my black coral sea puffer against the
eel if you think it would be a risk to keep them all, but I am very reluctant to
part with any of my fish as they all work really well together.
<The Dragon would be a typical case for a specimen only tank. Not much I can
think of – aside sessile invertebrates, snails, hermits – is safe with this type
of moray, even other Moray Eels may fail.>
Thanks, Kev.
<Cheers, Marco.>
Swollen Snowflake Eel –
12/04/2007
Hi WWMedia Crew!
<Hello Andrew and Laura>
We're huge fans! You've help us a great deal, as we've learned enough to set up
our very first tank. Aside from some predictably difficult moments, we feel it's
been a success.
<Glad to hear.>
We've read every FAQ on the site--(using the Google tool as necessary)--not even
those just regarding our problem, but several others, which have helped us a
great deal. (Also huge fans of the CM and Bob and Anthony's Reef Inverts.)
Unfortunately, we haven't been able to find a topic that corresponds to our
situation. (Though it's probably there somewhere.) Recently, we acquired a young
snowflake eel. He seemed healthy and inquisitive. He had a lot of personality.
We named him Gumboot.
Anyway, we quarantined him for 4 weeks
<Very good>
, and he seemed fine—quite happy even, eating frozen foods, like krill, shrimp
and scallops. We introduced him into our main tank, along with a sole tankmate—a
young lionfish who also seemed happy and healthy. (The lionfish remains so to
this day.)
A few days ago, the eel disappeared into the rock. Old story, I know, but in
this case he reappeared, acting curiously. Although he had been ravenous, he now
retreated from food.
<Not eating can be a sign of stress, disease, injury, not being hungry.>
Soon after, we noticed a peculiar swelling or growth just above his midsection.
Since then, he
will not eat. He continues to hang out in his favourite spots, his breathing
seems OK, but the swollen area has not moved or changed, and he hasn't eaten
since Thanksgiving.
<Swollen areas or bumps on eels can have many reasons:
- Parasites below the skin (marble like appearance),
- Internal bacterial infection (many shapes; usually growing; has to be treated
in a hospital tank with antibiotics),
- Various types of tumors (some will go away by themselves, some can only be
treated by a vet),
- Constipation (swelling at the belly, use Epsom salt; don’t feed much krill,
but more mussel and crab meat),
- Carrying eggs (eel may increase its diameter more than three times, but yours
is probably too young).
- In your case I would not exclude the eel was stung by the Lionfish, swelling
is one of the symptoms. However, the swelling should become smaller with time
unless a piece of the fin ray of the Lionfish got stuck in there and caused an
inflammation. In that case you should see a tiny entrance wound.>
He is only about 8" long, if that matters. (Sorry we can't provide pix, but he
won't show enough of himself to be relevant.)
<I hope the list above helps you to get an idea of the possible reason and
treatment of the swelling.>
Water parameters: SG-1.023, pH-8.2, temp-77F, Am 0, Nitrites 0, Nitrates <10.
The tank is 90G FOWLR, w/ a 20 g sump, 100 lb. live rock, and a TurboFlotor
protein skimmer.
<Sounds all okay.>
Should we remove the eel to quarantine and medicate--and if so, medicate with
what?
<Only if you know what he has, you will know how to treat.>
Or should we just hang out and hope for the best?
<Try to get a better diagnosis with the list above.>
(Is he, say, just constipated?)
<Well possible. Is the swelling mostly at the belly?>
Sorry for the somewhat obvious question, but although he hasn't been with us for
too long, we're very fond of him.
<I’m sure you are and I do hope Gumboot will get well again. Further recommended
readings are http://www.wetwebmedia.com/moraydisfaqs.htm ;
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/moraydisfaq2.htm ;
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/snoflkeeldisfaqs.htm;
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/zebramdisfaqs.htm;
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwmoraydisfaqs.htm>
Thanks immensely... Andrew & Laura in Chicago
<Hope that helps, Marco.>
Re: Swollen Snowflake Eel –
12/05/2007
Hi Marco!
<Hello Andrew and Laura.>
We can't thank you enough for taking the time to answer our question. We
hope you won't mind if we attach a brief rider:
<No problem at all.>
As if things weren't bad enough, we experienced a 5 hour power outage
here in Chicago, during winter. Fortunately the display tank only lost
about 2.5 degrees in that time.
<No problem here for your FOWLR.>
Afterwards. Gumboot came out. His swelling was even more pronounced, and
he seems quite apathetic. He lay dead center, in the front of the tank.
His respiration was normal,
<Gills are not affected.>
but he was limp and not inclined to hide.
<This looks really bad.>
We've removed him to a 10 gallon QT, so we might better see what is
happening with him.
<Understandable choice seeing the pictures. Offer him some cave to feel
more comfortable and keep the water quality pristine.>
He remains sluggish. We've attached some pictures here
<I see one, had no idea the swelling was that large.>
, in hopes that you might be able to help us more. Do you have any sense
of what might be going on here? We're ready to dose with antibiotics or
iodide supplements, but we're not sure which way (if either) to go.
<Look for a wound from a lionfish sting and check if the lionfish has
intact stinger ends. What we see here is probably an accumulation of
fluids. If there is no wound I’d suspect an internal bacterial infection
hard to diagnose exactly/treat accordingly without a veterinarian. You
can try an antibiotic for gram negative bacteria like Maracyn Two, but,
although some eels swollen like your moray survive, many die. It is
impossible to know without tests which antibiotics actually work, due to
the apparent use of loads of antibiotics at many collectors and
wholesalers.>
Thanks again. We know you're busy, and we appreciate your help more than
we can say.
Andrew & Laura in Chicago.
<Sorry I have no better news. Keep us updated, I still hope Gumball
survives. Marco in Heidelberg.> |
|
 |
|
Japanese Dragon eel and Volitans lionfish –
11/24/2007
Dear WWM crew,
<Bill.>
Love your website, it's the best website in this hobby for this hobby.
<I’m glad you like the site.>
I have a 120 gallon tank with about 100 lbs of live rock and a 30 gallon sump
with a ETSS skimmer.
The lonely inhabitant is a 30" Japanese Dragon eel and since he is always at the
bottom of the tank (only comes up when hungry), I think the tank could use
another fish so I was thinking about adding a V. lionfish but I'm afraid that it
could sting the eel since the eel might get
the wrong idea and try to eat it or would he?
<Dragon eels (Enchelycore pardalis) can be a real pain for tank mates due to
their long teeth, enormous power and fish eating tendencies. Fish large enough
to be safe on the other hand may be a threat to the eel. The lionfish is both, a
possible threat to the eel and possible prey. I would not risk losing this rare
and expensive moray by adding a lion.>
Do eels know to stay away from Lionfish?
<In the confined space of an aquarium this may not always be possible. Since the
eel was in the tank first, it may well interpret the addition of a lion (and
most other fish) as feeding. Can work if your eel is exceptionally peaceful, but
the risk is too high in my opinion.>
So if too risky to put in a Lionfish, what other fish would you suggest?
<Mmh… have many eels together with other eels of the same size without major
problems, but eels will stay at the bottom, too, and dragon eels are not among
the eels seen sharing their caves in the wild… robust groupers work well with
many eels, too, but they need a lot of swimming space and I do not think a 120
gallon system could support a half a metre grouper… Tiny fish like some gobies
work quite well with large eels. To be honest I would not try another fish in
this tank.>
I don't want to deal with Angelfishes or Puffers.
<I’m sure the dragon would love dealing with them… pricey food and if the puffer
puffs possibly a dead moray.>
I really love the Sohal tang and the Harlequin tusk but they would have to be
huge since the eel can eat filet of fish (6" long x 2" height) which is pretty
big, huh?
<Oh yes, and they can take out chunks of larger fishes by forming their body
into knot.>
Thanks for your time, Bill.
<Sorry if it is not what you wanted to hear, but personally I would not try tank
mates. Rather enjoy the dragon in his own tank. Much more relaxing. Take care,
Marco.>
Re: Japanese Dragon eel and Volitans lionfish -11/27/2007
Dear Marco,
<Bill.>
Thanks for your quick response.
<No problem.>
I actually forgot to mention that the eel is going to be transferred to
the 120 gallon tank so, if that's the case, would I be able to put the
Lionfish in 1st and then the eel?? Do you still think it might not be
worth the risk to the eel?
<Chances are better when you add the Lionfish first. Anyway, I
personally would not risk the life of this pricey and wild caught Moray
eel. It is possible they will live together peacefully, but the
probability is rather small. Chances are good the Eel will kill or eat
the Lionfish at some point. Worst case scenario is the Eel is stung to
death while killing the Lionfish.>
Thanks, Bill.
<Welcome. Marco.> |
White mouth moray, dragon moray and
lionfish compatibility – 10/08/07
Hey Guys,
<Jim.>
Just had a stocking question (no nothing to do with panty hose lol) Was just
wondering how many volitans lionfish I could comfortably keep with a white mouth
moray Gymnothorax meleagris in a 210 gallon tank as adults?
<Morays and lionfish do not always mix well. I’ve encountered lionfish ripped
apart by morays and morays stung to death by lionfish. They are certainly not
among the tank mates I’d choose for a moray and the white mouth is not among the
harmless species, especially not when grown. Sometimes you'll find 1 foot
groupers or triggers in 3 foot morays, so possible tank mates should be larger.>
I have a 75 gallon sump with a skimmer rated for 450 gallons.
<Nice size.>
Also how many volitans could I keep in the tank without the eel.
<Not more than three to four adults in my opinion. Also have a look here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/lioncompfaqs.htm and
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i2/lionfish/keeping_lionfishes.htm for further
opinions.>
The last question is I have a second tank with a dragon moray by itself and
would like to put lions in there, but everyone I talk to says in time the dragon
will come out and take chunks out of whatever fish I put in there. Do you find
dragons to be so aggressive even with large fish?
<As with all morays, it mostly depends on the personality of the fish. However,
dragon morays are piscivores and some specimens actually do not tolerate any
tank mates, they are generally among the more aggressive members of the family.
They can take pieces out of larger fishes by biting their victim, forming their
body into a knot and pulling their head through the knot.>
Anyways thanks in advance for any info you could give me. Jim.
<I hope it’s helpful. Marco.>
Moray Eel Worries. Golden spotted eel in 15 gallons, upgrade needed; comp.
questions – 07/08/07
Hi, I have a Golden-Spotted Eel in my 60 l tank (Sorry, I'm from Australia).
<No worries. I’m living in Germany. 60 l is about 15 gallons.>
He's only about 20cm <8 inches> in length (sorry again!) and lives with a yellow
tang and domino damsel (no idea how he hasn't eaten the damsel yet <Give it some
time.> because he's only about 1 cm in length).
<Your tank is far too small (or is a 0 missing?), even if the fish are tiny now.
I hope your afterwards mentioned upgrading will take place in the coming weeks.>
I've got two problems -
1. I got some live rock from the sea and didn't realise there was a bloody
anemone in it! I'm wondering if the anemone will sting the moray and/or other
fish.
<Well possible. Most anemones need pristine water quality and grow too large for
a 15 gallon tank. It should go to a tank of a fellow hobbyist or back to the
store in exchange for another piece of rock or to make a down payment for a
larger tank.>
It has already tried to eat my jardini, etc but it's joined to the rock and I'd
have to kill it to get it out of there (don't worry the jardini is far away
now).
<See
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemoneplacemtfaqs.htm
and linked pages for moving anemones.>
Do you think he'll be ok?
<No.>
2. There isn't much info on my particular species of eel
<Need to know the species’ scientific name first. Likely there is information
available. Do you have the scientific name or a picture for identification? If
none of the two is available try comparing your specimen to fishbase.org
pictures using the names given below. At least 3 morays are referred to as
golden spotted: G. miliaris from the Atlantic (See
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i1/eels/Eels.htm ); G. tile from the
Indo-Pacific (See
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_4/V4I2/Freshwater_eels/freshwater_eels.htm
); golden speckles are larger on young specimens and not very round ); G.
eurostus from the Indo-Pacific ( See http://www.wetwebmedia.com/moraysii.htm ).
and I know they can be aggressive but mine doesn't seem so (I'm sure he is just
tricking me though).
<Don’t get fooled.>
I'm wondering what fish I can put in there (the tank is to be upgraded to a huge
wall tank soon) and if I can 'try out' some Banded Shrimp because my boyfriend
is in love with them. There's a little crab in there that came in with the rock
so I'm wondering how much the eel even likes crustaceans?
<No further fish until the system is upgraded. Most morays will eat or wound
smaller fish and crustaceans, but they are quite individualistic with regard to
their eating preferences, sometimes independently from their species’ general
preferences. Some eat anything moving, some only eat frozen sea food. It’s
almost always a gamble and only when you have it for some years, you might get
an idea what your moray will eat and what it won’t eat. You could try adding a
larger banded shrimp to the new tank (as soon as it is cycled) first and then
the moray. This ensures it won’t think it is being fed. Anyway, a freshly molted
shrimp is a temptation, so don’t get attached too much to the crustacean (or any
fish you add smaller than half of the moray length), because they might be
consumed in the long run.>
Thanks! Sorry it was so long! Fan from Oz, Liana.
<You are welcome. Cheers, Marco.>
New moray eel settling in – 05/21/07
Hey guys, I recently messaged you about my snowflake eel getting out. I
have just gotten another eel and I was just curious if there and thing <is
anything?> that I can do to help him settle in with the snowflake <Provide
enough caves for the two and leave the new one some time to settle in. Don’t
terrorize it too much with food, if it does not want to eat.> and whether
there is a similar eel to the Chainlink eel <Yes, several… See WWM searching
for morays, e.g. young barred moray eels Echidna polyzona are similar. If
you need an ID search at fishbase.org or sent a good photo. Cheers, Marco.>
Help! Undulated eel (G. undulatus) comp.- 04/17/07
Hi, I have a few questions about putting fish with an undulated eel (1 ft.).
<Will grow up to 5 ft. Notorious fish eater. Hope your tank can support that.>
Fish such as a Hawaiian spotted puffer size is (2 In.) <too small> or a snow
flake eel <risky in the long run, since the G. undulatus will likely outgrow
it.> or a dwarf eel <too small>. Would it be okay to add any of these fishes
with an undulated eel or would it eat it or get along with it? If not any of
these fishes I would like to know what types of fishes and eels are compatible.
<Ensure first your tank is large enough to support two big fish. With regard to
other fishes search for species, which will get around 2 feet and are rather
heavy and peaceful. With regard to moray eels search for species that reach
about the same length. Only put them in the same tank if they have a similar
size and provide enough caves. Brazilian dragon moray (M. melanotis) and
Purplemouth moray (G. vicinus) are equally aggressive species that might work.
Peppered moray (G. pictus) and Zebra moray (G. zebra) are large and more or less
peaceful species that could be compatible. The safest option would be to keep
your G. undulatus alone. Be sure to read
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/moraysii.htm and the related FAQs.>
We tried putting it with two damsel fish <expensive food, but much appreciated>
and it tried to eat it and now all we have in the fish tank is a coral shrimp,
which it gets along with.
<Shrimp will probably be missing some day, too.>
Thank You. <Welcome, Marco.>
Undulated moray eel and dwarf lion? …No – 05/07/07
Hi, I have an undulated moray eel. And wanted to know, if dwarf zebra
lionfish would get along with the moray.
<There are several cases of lionfish having killed small moray eels and there
are several cases of moray eels having killed lionfish. The undulated moray eel
is rather on the piscivorous side. I would not try putting them together.
Cheers, Marco.>
Re: Moray Tankmates 5/16/07
It is an Undulated Moray (Gymnothorax Undulatus) and it is 15-18 inch.
<I apologize, one more question. How big is the proposed system? AJ.>
Gymnothorax Undulatus Tankmates in a 125 Gallon Tank? – 05/16/07
125 gallon tank
<Any arrangement with the eel and any of the other animals you suggested will be
a VERY short-term arrangement. This eel can reach up to 1.5 meters (about 6
feet) in length and is hardly suitable for most captive environments. Adam J.>
<<Please, go somewhere else. RMF>>
Snowflake eel, Chainlink eel – compatibility and system. 03/25/07
Hi again, had a question about my snowflake eels behaviour. When I
first got my eels (Chainlink and snowflake (both came from the same tank))
they were buddy buddy hung out same cave and all and at first the snowflake
was the adventurous one going all around its new tank while the Chainlink
hid and refused food. Then I guess they had a fight and he moved on up to
the pump in the corner of the tank. I took your advice and made a second
cave and he came back down, but sure enough the Chainlink had to change
caves from time to time which sent my snowflake flying out of its cave and
back to its pump.
<Need more caves. Once I had a similar case of a moray hiding behind and in
my skimmer. It ended when I introduced and in part buried PVC pipes. I made
two caves per moray eel and they almost never left them since.>
At first it seemed they were the same size, but now I can see the snowflake
is smaller. Any thoughts you feel like sharing on this?
<Watch their growth carefully, moray eels are known to be cannibalistic in
some cases when their sizes were too different.>
I’d like to get them living in the rocks again, right now he’s using my
banded shark as a hiding place. Its kind of funny to watch the shark burrow
itself in the sand only to have the eel ruin its burrow in its attempt to
burrow and back and forth but I wouldn’t risk giving it food while its under
him. Also are there any chances a Chainlink eel could ingest a small
lionfish safely mines missing.
<Oh yes. Morays (even of the genus Echidna) can kill and eat small lionfish
and lionfish can kill morays.>
Thanks in advance. <Cheers, Marco.>
Re: Chainlink and snowflake still not getting along - 04/07/07
Hello again, I own two eels (a Chainlink and a snowflake). They both came
from the same tank and got along great for a week or so (The LFS guys told me
they would be great together rather then two snowflakes... I was new).
<They usually do get along well.>
Anyway long story short the happy couple had a fight and the snowflake moved up
to my pump. My main concern is if the Chainlink is trying to injure the
snowflake or push it around. It’ll come up to it and ram it with an open mouth
to which the snowflake will dart off. I’ve tried multiple caves splitting the
caves far apart etc... the snowflake just doesn’t get bugged up top and there’s
no getting it down.
<Seems this tank is not large enough at least for these two individuals. Have
you already tried PVC pipes? It is possible the Chainlink will rarely leave such
pipes, since they are really appreciated as hiding spots. Since the increase of
the number of caves did not work so far, other strategies also have to be
considered. You may try to install a PVC pipe hanging in the upper area of the
tank until you can have a bigger tank. This could be an adequate hiding spot for
the snowflake. The only other solution left is a separation.>
Separating them means killing one, cause no one will take one of them back and
the one tanks all I can manage right now so that’s not really an option.
<There is no need to kill any of them. Try a local reef club or ask at the fish
store if they would take it back for free or know someone who would take it for
free. There are numerous more possibilities to give away your moray eel instead
of killing it. If you manage to remove the Chainlink for say 6-8 weeks in a
spare tank or at the LFS, it could be enough time for the snowflake to establish
its territory and gain some weight. It is possible that they will get along
after that time.>
A much bigger tank is on the way in about a years time so if its just harassment
then I'll let it go but if not I'd like a suggestion.
<It probably just is territorial behaviour. Anyway the snowflake needs a hiding
spot. No hiding spot equals tremendous stress.>
Thank you in advance for any solutions and/or info you can provide.
<Hope one of the suggestions works. Cheers, Marco.>
Re: Chainlink and snowflake still not getting along II - 04/08/07
Hello again, Marco if you are there quick follow up question. <I'm here.>
Just wanted to expand on the prior question/answer for complete understanding.
Is a PVC pipe just that much more secure over a pile of rocks near the back of
the tank?
<For many eels: yes. I also once had a specimen (some Gymnothorax) which hid in
an internal skimmer. As soon as I installed PVC pipes, it inhabited one of those
and never left it for long since. It in fact even is able to defend it (just by
threatening with its mouth wide open) against a larger moray eel. All my morays,
which had pipes available, loved them more or less. The advantage of pipes vs.
rock piles is, they leave almost no vulnerable points except the openings.
Therefore I think it is worth a try, especially in cases where they have
difficulties to get along. In a few months the pipes can be covered with
coralline algae and other things and even look good.>
(I have two main stacks on either side of the tank and one elongated cavern for
the other fish. The Chainlink has his favourite picked out, but makes a point to
patrol the other two and chase the snowflake out of them. I’m trying to do a
natural look in there, but will spring for more live rock if PVC pipe will allow
the eels to get cozier. Also I have two pumps in the top corner of my tank (one
for current the other for a sterilizer). This is where my snowflake is, it’s
dark, has stuff for him to coil around, a background on the back of the tank and
the wall on the other panel.
<You could install a pipe in this area.>
I would be willing to "camouflage" that spot as well but he really doesn’t seem
to be stressed (although he doesn’t swim around all that much...).
<Stressed morays do not eat. That is what you wrote in an earlier mail. If it
started eating again, it is not stressed too much. I’d provide a pipe anyway to
give him the chance to feel more comfortable.>
On a side note while I'm thinking about it, I would never kill my eel, was just
saying separation is a real tough option but may be one in a month. Also one
quick question kind of off this topic. My brittle starfish hid underneath one of
these caves. I can still see him (caves right on the wall of my aquarium), but
in terms of the tank he’s completely cut off unless he climbs out. I got a piece
of shrimp in to him which he took the other day and was wondering do I need to
pull him out or will he climb out when he gets hungry enough.
<He will likely climb out again when he wants to.>
Thanks again for your previous reply Marco.
<You are welcome. Marco.>
Please Help Emergency Lunare Wrasse in Distress 3/3/07
<Hi Ivy, Mich here.>
A few days ago I was replied to very promptly by your staff, All Thanks.
<Good to hear!>
My Fimbriated moray attacked my lunare wrasse.
<Yipe! Yipe! Yipe!>
I was instructed to separate them if possible.
<Gotta keep'em separated.>
I did.
<Good.>
I took all invertebrates out of the 55-gallon reef. I took the lunare wrasse
out of a 90 gallon with 100ppm <!> of nitrate, a work in progress. Well he was
moved to a 55-gallon reef with only one other fish that does not bother with
him, shrimp goby. Anyway the 55-gallon has about 10 ppm of nitrates.
<Much better.>
As well other parameters would be different. <!> The levels of calcium would be
higher, as well as the overall salinity and the temperature would have dropped
from 82F to 80 F. Well I acclimated the wrasse for an hour, with a heater and
drip line. He lay quite still. All last night and today he has laid still eyes
move around, he looks around. Respiration is high but not exceedingly for this
fish. He seems to always have breathed faster than some others.
<OK.>
I put my hand in the tank today and he let me stroke his face before he swam
off.
<STOP TOUCHING HIM!!!>
He swam about half the tank and then stopped again and still isn't swimming
around. He swam without difficulty though. He is not eating.
<Not a good sign, but still may recover.>
Anything I can do to help him.
<Stop touching him! Leave him alone and stop stressing him.>
Already treating with MelaFix and the cleaner shrimp gave him a once over.
<I would stop the MelaFix. Better to concentrate of high water quality.>
His wound from the eel was severe.
<I'm sorry to hear this.>
But by this time it had begun to close up, rather rapidly. He was vivacious and
active just before I moved him,. eating well.
<So he was doing better and now is doing worse?>
He is my pet. He has been in the tank with high nitrates for two years. I need
him to live. The wound doesn't look bad, it looks like it is healing but it has
white stuff on it, right in the crevice of the deepest wound. Is this healing
tissue or fungus?
<Hopefully healing tissue. Don't pick it!>
Oh my god I am just terrified I will lose him. How can I help him?
<Stop stressing him first off. Maintain the best water quality you can, offer
foods soaked in Selcon and give him time. -Mich>
Concerned
Ivy
Taming or Training Aggressive Eel. G. fimbriatus attacking wrasse – 26 Feb
2007
Please help…I have a 24” Fimbriated moray in a 90 gallon tank with An 8”
lunare wrasse and a 3” puffer. All the levels are good, nitrates are a bit high
80 ppm, but nothing crazy considering the diet of the fish.
<Nitrates are too high, indeed. Read and think about a refugium or get a better
skimmer.>
Anyway, the problem is that there isn’t a lot of info out there on fish
psychology. The eel is extremely aggressive, he has bitten me before and he has
a death wish for my beloved wrasse.
<Watch out. Those moray eel bites can be dangerous due to secondary infections.>
Granted the wrasse is very antagonistic to the eel, swimming up to the eels face
with his hackles raised or swimming quick circles around the eels head. The eel
has attacked the fish and severely injured him twice before, and I nursed him
back. The LFS says the wrasse is the natural prey item, size and shape wise, for
the eel and so the eel will never leave him alone, because there are some fish
the eel won’t take a second look at. For instance the puffer, the eel never even
looks at, or a tang or even an engineer goby, the eel seems to be friends with,
the engineer goby that would be a perfect meal for him. Question, can the eel be
taught or trained or coerced into leaving the wrasse alone?
<No. There is no guarantee any fish below 12 inches is safe with your eel at all
in the long run, even the puffer. Trying to swallow a puffer may even result in
a dead moray eel.>
Is the wrasse initiating the attacks by his behaviour, could it be something
personal?
<It’s probably considered food by the moray, might smell tasty, I don’t think
that can be called personal.>
Why does the eel, which eats ten silversides every other day, insist on wanting
to eat the wrasse?
<It’s in their nature. Some are peaceful and well fed for years and kill every
other tank inhabitant within days>
Is there any modification to the tank that could be made to house but keep
separated the eel from the wrasse?
<A perforated acrylic separator could be used, but they don’t look nice and will
drastically decrease swimming space, and thus could only be a temporary
solution. I’d rather set up a second tank for the moray. If you connect the two
tanks you’d also have a much larger volume of water and life rock and could get
rid of those nitrates. In case you want to do that, be sure to research and read
a lot at WetWebMedia and in books.>
They have grown from a couple of inches to their current size together and they
are my pets. I would hate to loose them, but I am at a loss for things to try
to reduce the aggression. One of your articles mentioned putting the mean fish
in a small tank for a couple days. Would that approach be of any use here?
<You’d probably only stress the moray eel.>
Does the eel want to eat him or just injure him?
<Probably eat.>
The attacks always happen at night, if I used a light source at night also would
the eel be at a disadvantage?
<Possible, but 24/7 light will not be appreciated by your fish at all.>
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Ivy. <Hope I could help. Cheers, Marco>
Snowflake Eel question 1/12/06
Would my Snowflake Moray (8-10") be ok in my 10 gallon "mini-reef" for a
short period of time?
<Mmm, not very>
I ask because I need to move his (or her, I guess) 55 gallon to another room in
my house, and I don't have anywhere else to put him. In the 10 gallon I have:
(1) 2" tank-raised False Percula, (1) 2-3" Pearly Jawfish, (2) Margarita snails,
(5) hermit crabs, (1) Emerald crab, (1) 2-3" Serpent star, (1) 1" Lettuce
Nudibranch, polyps, frogspawn, mushrooms, 20lbs LS, and 8lbs LR. Any serious
trouble or stress for anyone involved in this mix?
<Yes... the Moray disrupting all by at times rapid swimming... investigating,
bumping into the other life at night...>
I know the inverts could possibly meet their maker, obviously I would be
gambling. If you recommend this, what's the min/max amount of time to keep the
eel in the 10 gallon before re-introducing into the 55?
<I would not place this Muraenid here>
If not, what do you recommend I do with him while his home is moved?
<Mmm, have a friend, or fish store hold it>
Also, which medium-sized triggerfish would you suggest keeping with a 8-10"
Snowflake Moray in a 55 gallon FOWLR?
<None... too big, likely to bite the eel>
I'm hoping a Rhinecanthus or maybe a Balistapus Undulatus.
The other triggers are either too big or not mean enough! Thanks for the help.
WWM has changed my life. MIKE C
<Yikes! Mine too! Bob Fenner>
Golden Dwarf Moray Eel and Sharks, incomp. 12/3/06
Hey Bob,
I am interested in keeping a relatively small eel in my 325 gallon aquarium.
This is the same aquarium I will be housing my 2 Brown Banded Bamboo sharks. I
was just wondering if you know of any places that sell Golden Dwarf Moray Eels?
<None that do so steadily... just have to "put in your request and wait"... I'd
try "That Fish Place", Marine Center, Marine Depot... (.coms)>
How Expensive do they normally run?
<Seventy to a hundred dollars or so FOB>
And
besides the Golden Dwarf Moray what other morays stay relatively small and
docile?
<Posted... on WWM>
Please let me know.
Thanks,
Brenden Hewko
<I would not stock a Muraenid with sharks of any species... too likely to suffer
from intentional and incidental damage from the Chondrichthyans. Bob Fenner>
Eels ... mixing Snowflake, Zebra... 11/16/06
Can I put a zebra eel in with a snowflake eel? <Hi, Michelle here. They
can be compatible. There is much to glean about these fascinating
creatures. Please take a little time and read over some of the information
found on the WWM site to learn how to provide appropriate care for these
beauties.>
Mixing in a Moray 10/27/06
Hi Guys,
<And some ladies...>
Just had a question about compatibility in regards to keeping a Tesselata eel
with a large puffer or lion if they could get along or would they just get
eaten. Also the tank size is 210 gallons which I'm not sure is big enough
for a large Tesselata and puffer though it will have plenty of live rock and
very capable protein skimming. Anyways thanks in advance for any info you
can give me!
Jim
<A Tesselata may predate these other fishes in time... but all should be able to
live here for a few years... starting with small specimens and feeding
carefully. Bob F>
Aquascape... Mixing crab-eating morays, using a Jeweled Damsel from the TWA,
Moray system/s, acclimating new livestock... 8/3/06
Morning,
<Now the afternoon here... Yikes, got to "kick out the jams"... whatever that
means>
Just a quick question... or at least they always start out that way. I'm
looking at doing a 200gallon predator tank that will include both a snowflake
and zebra moray eel, a Russell lionfish, and a couple of others.
From reading your FAQ's, it sounds like in that large of an aquarium the two
morays should be ok together?
<These two species, likely so>
I also just bought a jeweled damsel on the advice of on of your FAQ's... since
this fish will eventually get to be around 6", a good fish to cycle my new
200gallon tank and should be ok with a lion and the morays?
<Mmm, likely okay to cycle, will get along>
My damsel is pretty brown looking with the diamonds on his back... does this
sound like a jeweled damsel to you?
<Of mid-size/age... okay>
Anyhow, my question.... Ok, my third question? With a fish only tank, I'm
thinking a crushed coral bottom hiding a small network of 3"pvc piping to create
a more interesting habitat for the morays. The pipe will open up in a two or
three caves that I will make. Sound like a good idea?
<Shore>
I just hope that a) a fish won't get down there and gobbled by the eel
<Mmm, the two species listed are largely non-piscivorous... see WWM re
Foods/Feeding/Nutrition of these two... I have penned, placed articles re...>
or b) something big doesn't die down there. Would be pretty nasty
disassembling my aquascape to remove the pipes to get a dead eel out. Your
opinion?
<Sounds pretty nasty>
The real question is (this is number 4, isn't it?) am I ok using a nice
black/grey slate to build up the backside of my tank and for the caves?
<I wouldn't use slate in marine systems... too two-dimensional with all the
drawbacks of same... too likely to have some chemically negative effect>
I was thinking of using aquarium epoxy to get a nice firm rockwork and like the
appearance of slate. I was also going to use about 100lbs of liverock to get a
mixture. Do you foresee any problems with this?
<Yes>
Just a note on the 'freshwater dip' for new fish. Sounds simple, but maybe it
is me that is simple? Haha.
<?>
After floating the sealed bag in the tank to get the temperature matching for
about 20 min.s, I then open the bag and slowly introduce some tank water via a
cup without mixing store water into my tank. When fish is ready, am I correct
in saying simply dip the net with the fish in it into some room temperature
fresh water for a couple of seconds and introduce new fish from net into my
tank?
<Mmm, one method... not one I'd use. Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimat.htm and the linked files above.>
Regards,
Dave Brynlund
<Keep reading. Bob Fenner>
Re: Aquascape 8/3/06
Thanks Bob...
<Welcome>
And did I mention I finally bought your book? Why on earth didn't I buy it 3
years ago?
<Man! I could've used that 28 cents in royalties way back... devalued now,
rats!>
What can you recommend as a cheap rock that is attractive?
<Mmm, see the various etailer re what's available from the S. Pacific... in
bulk, box order quantities...>
One of the fish retailers mentioned travertine? (sp?)
<Mmm, no... we have this on some of our floors... is made up of various
chemicals... formed in nature by "swamps/hot springs"... you don't want this...>
It's white, really porous... I've read a number of people using the slate for
marine aquariums... I guess I trust ya!
<Up to you... BobF>
Eels/Compatibility - 05/29/06
Hello, <Hello Kim>
I am not sure if I am emailing the right place or not <You are.> but I have a
question
on my eel. It is a Tessellate eel <Tesselata or Honeycomb Eel> I think it is
yellow and black spots and is
about four foot. He is in a 240 gal tank and I would like to know what I can
put in with him that he will not eat. I love him but I do not like looking at an
empty tank. I think he is very lonely because when I go up to the tank to
feed or just look at him he follows me. He is not a mean guy, <Mmm, a wolf in
lambs
clothing.> I feed him by hand and
love on him but I would like to put other things in with him just do not know
what. Could you please help me?
<Kim, about all I would recommend would be large angels or boxfish, but I don't
think
your tank can support much more than the eel as this guy fully grown, will
approach six
feet in length, taxing the limits of your bio and mechanical filter.>
Thank you,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Kim
Stocking/Compatibility...Eels, Groupers, Lionfish
I am currently setting up a 215 gallon aquarium, with a 60 gallon sump/fuge,
and after much thought and research, I believe I have finally settled on which
fish to house. I would like to keep a radiata lion, a Gymnothorax miliaris
(golden tail) moray, and a miniatus grouper. Is the system that I'm planning
large enough for this crew for the duration of their life span? <Yes,
providing no other additions are in the future.> Do you foresee any potential
troubles with this setup?
<The Fire Coral Eel will eat anything it can get into its mouth, including fish
and invertebrates. I'd make sure the Grouper and/or other fish you decide on
are larger than the eel to deter it from having supper on you. You will also
need a tight fitting cover on the tank or you will find the eel on the floor
some morning.>
Thanks, I really appreciate the help.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Kevin
Re: Stocking/Compatibility...Eels, Groupers, Lionfish
5/12/06
Thank you for the quick reply James. <<You're welcome.>> When you say that
a Gymnothorax
miliaris moray will eat invertebrates, would that include hermit crabs and
starfish?
<Whatever looks appetizing at the time.>
If so, is there a small (but not dwarf) species of piscivorous moray that is
less likely to eat hermits and starfish that you can recommend?
<I'd probably go with a Tesselata (Honeycomb Moray) or a Zebra Moray, both a
little
more docile and fish friendly, especially the Zebra Moray.>
Thanks,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Kevin
"Brazilian Dragon Moray" 2/23/06
I have been checking out the web. I'm interested in a "Brazilian Dragon
Moray", which I think is a "Muraena Retifera Eel". I have found both
references on the net, but need more info. I currently have a "Gymnothorax
Miliaris" eel & want to find a tank mate. I like the
Brazilian Moray, but can't find much info. I want to know its behavior, max
size, temperament, attitude toward other fish, co-habitation with my
other eel & any general info I can gather. You have a great informative site &
us hobbyist appreciate your help. Thanks ----- Corey
<... what sort of information are you looking for? In general, I would not mix
these or most other species of Muraenids... too much likelihood of trouble. M.
retifera doesn't get very large... 60 cm... 24 inches... G. miliaris is
similarly small... both piscivorous to omnivorous... Please search both on WWM,
fishbase.org
Bob Fenner>
Morays together 2/20/06
Hi Guys! I love your website and have gotten much great information from
it! I have a Goldentail / Gymnothorax miliaris/(about 12 inches) and have an
opportunity to get a Yellowhead / Gymnothorax fimbriatus that is the same size.
I have a 100 gallon (60x18x22) tank with approx 150 pounds of LR in it. I also
have a Volitans and a Queen Angel (both about 4 inches long) that will go into
the tank. I am wondering if it is possible that these might co-habitate? Also
for filtration I have a wet-dry system and a remora-pro, 3 1/2 inch DSB and
about 20X water flow. Right now my 100 is cycling and the Goldentail and others
are in a 65 gallon, but the Yellowhead would be going into a 30 QT tank until
ready to go in big tank, so that they would all go in at the same time! Would
this make them have a chance at getting along better, starting off on even
ground?
Thank you so much for your advice!
<<All Morays tend to be quite territorial, so I would advise against trying to
mix them, even in the fairly large tank you describe. Best Regards. AdamC.>>
Gymnothorax fimbriatus... mixing piscivorous Muraenids with food -
02/16/2006
Hello over there at WetWebMedia,
<Hi there at...>
I currently have a 125 with
Emperor Angel 6"
<Needs larger quarters...>
Foxface 6"
Blue Tang 7"
Marine Beta 8"
Powder Blue 5"
Porcupine Puffer 7"
Zebra Eel (just under 4 ft)
<Yikes! A beauty I bet>
I am upgrading to a 500 since I am not even close to achieving my desired fish
list. I would like a Gymnothorax fimbriatus, Enchelycore pardalis, or a
Gymnothorax favagineus.
<... not with these other fishes... or at least not for long>
Would any of these 3 eels work with the fish list I have? I will also be adding
triggers, wrasses, and another large angel to the 500.
Jesse
<Only as food items. Bob Fenner>
Could you tell us what are the natural predators of the Hawaiian Moray Eel?
1st Grade Report 11/15/05
Aloha,
Could you tell us what are the natural predators of the Hawaiian Moray Eel? Any help would be appreciated.
Mahalo,
George
<Mmm, the resident sharks, including the White Tip Reef, Triaenodon obesus mostly. Bob Fenner>
Acrylic crack repair, opportunistic/typical Moray
behavior 11/11/05
I just bought a used 55 gal hexagon acrylic tank. I was moving it
around trying to determine placement when I realized there is a crack in the top
panel. No point in finding blame now, I just want to know if I can
save it or take this as a loss.
<Mmm, can likely effect a simple repair here>
The crack, definitely not crazing since I can feel a separation, starts from a
corner round of the large cutout and extends about 3 inch toward one of the six
sides. One more inch and it is going to hit the side edge! I've
been reading about using Weld-On and applying an acrylic panel to the crack.
<Yes>
Also is drilling a hole at the end of the crack going to stop it?
<Not likely useful, necessary>
Can I get Weld-On at Home Depot if I were to try this?
<Best to seek out from a "Plastics" supply... look in your local
Business Yellow Pages Directory re>
Should I worry about this crack since it is only on the top panel?
<Mmm, not much to worry about, but I would solvent it closed>
The tank is a standard 55 gal hex 24x24x28.
It's funny how things go wrong and just seem to spiral even more. I
bought the tank intending to make it a new home for my white-mouth eel about
15in, who has managed to eaten two smaller fish. Well he attacked and
ate my 6-7 inch lunare wrasse last night. I couldn't believe he was
able to swallow the wrasse or even catch it. What a sight! Thanks
<Welcome... an easy project/fix... Bob Fenner>
Moray compatibility 09/13/2005
Hello again
I was wondering if I could keep a snowflake eel with any species of sand sifting
goby. I know snowflakes rarely eat fish but I read you should not mix bottom
dwelling fish with morays. Your website's very helpful and thanks again <I'll
rephrase a statement you made: "you should not mix any fish that a snowflake
moray can swallow." In that case, knowing that snowflakes can attain a length of
two feet, I'm thinking the goby may become dinner someday. James (Salty Dog)>
Patrick Nikiel
Eel compatibility question 8/26/05
Hello
My name is Laura Nikiel. I have a 125 gallon saltwater fish only tank. I have
been thinking about getting an eel. The species I have thought about are the
snowflake, zebra or jeweled morays.
<Good species for aquarium use>
But I am concerned about the eel being bothered by my large 7" niger trigger or
my 6" Klunzinger's wrasse.
<Possibly, yes>
My other fish include a 4" Naso tang, a 2" Pearlscale butterfly, a 5" porcupine
puffer, a mated pair of maroon clowns, and 2 damsels. I have lots of live rock
and hiding places. I will also add PVC pipe if I get the eel. It would also be
great if you could tell me what species of eel is best. An answer would be
greatly appreciated
Thank You
Laura Nikiel
<... I do hope this system is a few hundred gallons in size. Any of the proposed
species might go... but you might have trouble getting food to it/them... and
the trigger, puffer, and even the wrasse might harm it... Bob Fenner>
Info on Spotted Moray (Gymnothorax moringa) 8/23/05
Hey, I was wanting to know if you had any information you could give me on
Spotted Morays...
<G. moringa>
I was thinking about purchasing one and didn't know that much
about them... some questions I did want to ask was... how aggressive are they?
<This one is not much...>
would one get along w/ a Zebra? and I know Zebra Morays won't go chase after
fish, but would a Spotted?
<Not likely>
Thanks for taking to time to help, pls respond back
w/ any info you could give me.. thanks a lot, Steph
<A good mid-sized Muraenid for large aquarium use:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/morays.htm
Bob Fenner>
Jewel moray compatibility 8/5/05
Hi! there. There is a jewel moray eel available at my LFS today and they call it Mexican dragon eel.
<Both names are at times applied to the same species>
It is about 10", a juvi. I am interested to get this eel but didn't since I am not to familiar with this eel. I checked WWM site
to learn more about this eel, but found too little about it. According to your
site that this eel grows to about 2' feet in captivity. I don't think that
would be a problem since I have a 300 gallon aquarium with no eel in it yet.
You have mentioned that the Zebra eel is pretty docile. My question, is this
eel as docile as the zebra eel
<Mmm, no... on a 1-10 scale I'd rate it twice as aggressive, much more variably
aggressive>
and if not, will this jewel eel could be a
potential predator in my tank?
<Mmm, possibly... especially with small edible invertebrates>
Is it as aggressive
as the Hawaiian dragon eel?
<No... about half...>
Will this eel eat my fishes?
<Possibly, yes>
I have several tangs (powdered blue, purple tang, clown tang, a rare mix Kole tang, sohal,
Vlamingi, blue unicorn), Angels (Regal angel, Queen Angel, majestic angel, Scribbled
angel), wrasses (2 harlequin tusk, Green bird wrasse, Cuban hog, 12"
Coris
wrasse), puffers( Masked panda puffer, golden dogface, unknown puffer with all
stripes all
over the body, no spots, porcupine puffer), Moorish idol, Catalufa,
Tassel
file, 24" white spotted bamboo shark, a parrot fish, flame hawk, dwarf fuzzy
lion, Anthias and butterflies semilarvatus and long nose. All are doing great
in my tank for more than 5 1/2 years now.
<I would not add more life to this system... too much chance of "something"
going wrong>
the smallest is the dwarf lion at
4". My system: two overflow built in, Aqua C EV400 skimmer with Iwaki pump, 60
gallons refugium, 80 gallon sump with all live rocks as the filter media,
mag drive 7 on each end of the tank for oxygen, big air bubbles in the middle
of the tank slowly, 40 watt UV sterilizer, about 250lbs of live rock inside
the tank and 2" of substrate. I also have a RO system attached to the faucet
near the tank and this is being use to tap off the tank for daily precipitation
of the water and for changing water. I have marine plants in the refugium
that grows so fast and these serves as food for all of my veggie lover fishes.
I love all of my fishes and they've been with me for more than 5 1/2 years
now, that is the reason why I am asking for help on the "Mexican dragon jewel
moray eel", if this eel will be a predator on my tank? or is it better just to
get a zebra moray eel? Also, with my tank set up, can I also get a Port Jackson
shark?
<I would not... Bob Fenner>
Your suggestion in this matter is greatly appreciated.
Mark A.
Re: jewel moray 8/6/05
Thanks for your response. I now know that it is best for me to get a Zebra
eel. I have ordered that already on my LFS. You guys are a big help.
<Uhh, I wouldn't add the Gymnomuraena either>
Just one question unanswered.
What do you think of a Port Jackson shark on my 300 gallon system? Does Port
Jackson shark attacks fish for food? Please response ASAP and thanks for your patients and kindness.
Mark
<Please read the article, FAQs file on PJ's/Heterodontids posted on WWM. Bob
Fenner>
Re: jewel moray 8/7/05
I am a bit confused as to what I've been reading now on your site. Per Bob Fenner, the Zebra Moray eel is very docile and will not eat or bother fishes in
your tank, since the diet of this eel is just crustacean. Which is true now?
<This is so... but, referring back to our original correspondence, I mentioned
that your system is over-stocked as it is... and that adding another fish is not
worth the risk of introduction of disease, or behavioral dynamic>
I just look at Bob Fenner's article on Zebra Moray eel, and it is mentioned
on his article that the Zebra eel, don't bother fishes.
<Sorry for the confusion. This species is not a piscivore... but your tank is
too crowded as is. Bob Fenner>
Re: jewel moray 08/08/2005
Thanks for the reply, Mr. Fenner. Anyway, you haven't mentioned about
being
over crowded in my 300 gallons, but I will take your advice and cancel my
zebra eel order.
<Actually... please re-read our correspondence... archived here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/moraycompfaqs.htm>
Having a successful tank for few years now makes me be more
careful in what I put in my tank now. Thanks for your advice.
<If this were my system (one more time), I would not risk adding more life to
it. Bob Fenner>
HI Dragon Eel and PJ Shark 8/7/05
Good Afternoon Mr. Bob Fenner,
<Sunday late AM now...>
Your articles about the marine creatures are very helpful. I have searched
your site and can't find much about the beautiful Hawaiian dragon eel and the port Jackson shark.
<Not that much I know re these species>
I have a 300 gallon tank with live rocks (a lot) and fish only and the smallest is about 4". I have a white spotted bamboo shark 2 feet long, wrasses, large angels, tangs, large parrot fishes, Catalufa, Dwarf lion, hawk, Hogs, long nose butterfly,
Tassel file, unicorn, and Moorish idol. I have
all this fish for about 5 1/2 years now and they are all doing great and healthy. Yes, I am very fortunate to have Moorish Idol, Regal Angel, Parrot fishes, yellow tail
Coris wrasse, Tassel file which are all rated as hard to take care in Scott Michaels marine book for 5 1/2 years now. it is not easy and
it requires so much time and work to maintain delicates. My white spotted bamboo is very docile.
<Good>
My question: Does the HDE and PJS will be compatible with my fishes?
<Uhh, no... both these animals will eat your other fishes...>
Do they
just swallow fishes that will fit in to their mouth, and if so, what is the biggest fish that they can swallow? Do they attack large fishes and then tear them into pieces before eating it?
<Both swallow and bite pieces...>
Please,
e-mail me ASAP. I have the opportunity to have both fishes for a very reasonable price, but even then, I want to know more about these two
fishes before
putting it on my system. Also, I don't want to jeopardize my fishes that's been
with me for almost 5 1/2 years now.
Thanks so much for your help and for your time. Please response ASAP. Your help is greatly appreciated.
Mark
<Again... I would not add these fishes, nor likely any more livestock to this
system. Bob Fenner>
Eel email! 07/02/05
Ok Bob,
I recently got an eel as a pet. its a green moray.
yes I am aware of the size they get. my main question
for you, is do the get meaner than Tessalatas?
someone told me they are about the same as far as
temperance goes. I just wanted to see what you
thought of that.
<Can be a very aggressive species... eating all tankmates, biting aquarists...
Please see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/moraysii.htm
Bob Fenner>
Tesselata Eel
Hi, In my larger tank I have a 2 foot Tesselata eel, Blueline grouper,
black Volitans lionfish, spotted grouper, and a clown trigger.
<Yowzah! I do hope this is a BIG tank>
I had a Janssen wrasse in there that was 7 inches and during feeding time
the Tesselata decided to strike it rather then the krill.
<Happens with piscivorous Muraenids>
It was like the discovery channel. Anyway I have a dogfaced puffer, Blueline
grouper, and a clown trigger that are even smaller then the Janssen in the
tank. Will the Tesselata eat all of them eventually?
<Perhaps>
Or will it leave certain groups of fish alone? Thanks
Dinesh Patolia
<There is always going to be a chance here, though with growth, familiarity,
the other fishes ought to be able to keep out of Mr. T's way. Bob Fenner>
Grass eel and tank mates? Not likely
I just received a grass eel as a present. I own a 200 gallon tank and have lots of live rock and I was wondering if he would be compatible with my rhino blenny, spiny box puffer, blue head wrasse, pink tip anemone, two tomato
clowns, several shrimp, and an octopus? I have him quarantined now.
Thanks,
Nick
<Is Chilorhinus suensonii your species? Not compatible with the above... who are
not in turn compatible amongst themselves... Read on my young friend... on WWM,
the Net re each of these species needs, life histories. Bob Fenner>
Moray stung by a Lionfish...
Hello. I purchased a 2 foot Chainlink Moray Eel and he was very healthy when
I introduced him into the tank. A few days ago my Lionfish stung him twice.
<Yikes... not compatible...>
He has survived and is doing ok considering what happened. He had open wounds so
I dosed him with medication.
<... ?... for?>
He seems to be doing better but now he is losing the skin on his underbelly where he was stung. Any suggestions? Thanks so
much for your time.
<Keep the system optimized and stable... and the fish well-fed... Bob Fenner>
Dragon moray compatibility
I have an 18" Hawaiian dragon moray in a 65gallon tank. He is doing great and eating well. He is the only fish in the tank with the exception of some
damsels I get about once a week for him to chase around and eat. I want to put a fish in there that actually swims around. The tank looks pretty empty
most of the time. I really want to put a clown trigger in the tank with him. I know this fish will eventually out grow my 65 but for now the one I
saw at my LFS is the perfect size. Too big to be eaten and too small to have an adverse effect on the tank quality. My biggest concern is if the
trigger will pick on the eel? It's the eels tank and I don't want to get something that will hurt him. Thanks.
<Mmm, well, this tank is already too small for just the Dragon Moray... and it has now been "trained" to eat what comes into its system... I would NOT place a trigger in with this fish. Bob Fenner>
The Octopus and the Moray
Hi Bob,
I have a 30 gallon marine aquarium. I have on bimaculoides octopus (1 inch) in
my tank alone. In my 10 gallon marine aquarium I have one snowflake eel I am
quarantining. The eel is about 5 inches. Is it okay to mix these two together.
<Mmm, no... though the moray you have feeds most often (in the wild) on
crustaceans... it might very well bother the Octopus to the extent that it inks
your system... likely deadly to both>
I feed my marine life 2 times a day so would there be a problem with food? Or do
you think I should put the eel in the 30 and the Octo in the 10? Please get back
to me as soon as possible.
<I would go with this last plan... separately stocking... DO keep your tanks
completely covered! Both these animals are very adept at getting out of tanks.
Bob Fenner>
Moray Eel
I'm looking to set up a 200-240gal tank. I would like to keep a
"Gymnothorax miliaris" in it & I'm wondering if there are any other
morays that are compatible to house with it?<Providing you have plenty of live
rock/caves built up, just about any moray would co-exist with it.> I would like
to keep 2 eels
in this tank. Also, I'm thinking about keeping a small cat shark in it.<I would
forget about the small cat shark as they won't be small for long. Even a 240,
six feet long, <<Usually eight. RMF... still too small>> is not that big of a
tank for a shark. I strongly believe sharks should be left on the reefs where
they do their best job as scavengers. James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks --------- Corey
Moray Compatibility
hi,
I was thinking of getting a tank devoted to aggressive fish. Would a zebra
moray eel and a snowflake moray eel be compatible? Are these two eels shy? I
want an eel that is swimming around. I have heard that zebras are hard to feed
and tend to go on feeding strikes, Are they? They cost $30 at the fish store and
I don't want an eel that is going to starve to death. Would they be compatible
with a niger trigger and a porcupine puffer?
thanks
>Greetings,
Moray eels are by their very nature retiring creatures, therefore you will never
have a moray that is always swimming around as you stated. Most will swim around
during feeding time, and they are VERY good at detecting food in the water.
Their olfactory acuities are second to none, except maybe for sharks. My zebra
used to dash out of it's hole SECONDS after the food items were introduced on
the far end of his 6' tank! Having said that, it's best to feed them with a
stick to discourage them from prowling about during feeding, this minimizes
feeding aggression in general and prevents mishaps with tankmates for the most
part.
As far as compatibility goes, a zebra and a snowflake will do just fine together
as long as the zebra isn't huge, and the snowflake tiny. Neither of these
species are piscivores, but rather molluscivores. Offer food accordingly.
Neither the puffer nor the trigger poses any problems.
Good luck
Jim<
Moray Eel compatibility
Hello,
Can a Gymnothorax eel and a echidna eel live together in the same tank? I have
Chainlink eel and I'm planning on getting a Yellowhead moray eel (Gymnothorax
fimbriata (sp?) ). Are they compatible? Thanks for your help.
Ben
<Ben, They will get along when they are younger. There will be a problem when
they start to come to size. If you have a large tank, 125 gallons or larger,
you might be able to make it work. Good Luck. MikeB.>
Re: Moray tankmates?
Hello again,
<Greetings Chris>
Thank you again for your response in my last email. Now, on to the
drama. I wound up picking up that eel the other day, but suddenly have
several problems. 1) It's bigger than I had remembered/estimated. 2)
It's trying to eat anything in the tank that moves, including my puffer.
No, I didn't quarantine it. He'd been in his own tank at the local
store for several months, and I've kept my eye on him. 3) I think I
misidentified it; I think it's a "Spotted Moray". I'm pretty sure this
negates your advice, right?
<Is this... a Gymnothorax meleagris? Should be about as okay as the G.
eurostus>
I really hope the store takes this guy back, because despite my instant
attachment to it, I'm not keen on having it decimate the other
livestock. I truly was amazed to see such aggression out of that thing.
<Me too... it must have "learned" that anything in its environment is
food... can be trained that this is not the case... by using a
partition...>
And, I hate being "experienced" and making such a mistake. I hope my
puffer wasn't hurt too badly. He doesn't any visible damage as of now,
but is a bit low on self esteem at the moment I think ;). He's in QT
now.
<Bob Fenner> |
Re: Moray tankmates?
Thanks Bob. I received your email after returning the eel this morning.
My logic was that I'd wait for a bit until I could have a dedicated tank
for such a neat eel, or wait until my current tank occupants get a
little bigger. As it turns out, I worked for this pet store when I was
a kid, so when I explained my deal today the owner said, "Sure, but the
fish people aren't in yet, so you put him away and we'll work out the
rest later."
<Ahh... very good>
Actually, I think it was a Gymnothorax moringa, perhaps just one with
especially dark coloration?
<Possibly... from the tropical West Atlantic... not Hawai'i:
http://www.fishbase.org/Summary/SpeciesSummary.cfm?ID=7547&genusname=Gymnothorax&speciesname=moringa>
I've enclosed a picture so you might see
for yourself. It doesn't show in the picture, but he had the same white
tippage to the end of his fins.
<Okay>
I did consider the partition, but wasn't sure the success I'd have with
such a device, didn't want to see my friendly puffer get snacked if it
failed, etc. How often does this method work?
<More than nine out of ten... unless the moray gets around the
partition... which happens about half the time!>
Assuming that he did
indeed think that anything in his environment is food? Why, then, did
he leave the Lion alone? He'd go sniff out the hermit too,
Thanks again.
<"Targets of opportunity?" (homeland security, coalition of the
filling?)... which would you try if you had no hands (or pectoral fins
in this case). Bob Fenner> |
|
 |
Moray tankmates?
Hey Folks.
<Chris>
I have to say, I think your site is the most valuable single information
resource that I've found to date. I've spent hours browsing around,
getting answers to questions, and learning. It's great!
<Glad you find our efforts useful>
I have successfully kept two tanks for several years now, a 90 gal reef
tank and a 75 gallon community tank. I've recently converted the 75
"rough and tumble" tank, moving out its occupants and replacing them
with a 7" or so Black Volitans lion and a porcupine puffer of a
slightly smaller size. There's also an ENORMOUS common hermit crab in
there (larger than the 4" max that I thought they were supposed to peak
at. he's big. his shell is about the size of a baseball)
<Hee hee! Saw one underwater (in Hawaii) last week about this size>
Anyway, on to my question: My LFS has an eel that I'd love to have. I
believe it to be a Gymnothorax eurostus, dark brownish color, yellowish
speckling, dark blue iris's, pointed teeth. They have him labeled as a
"XL Hawaiian Eel" He was a special order that never got picked up, and
has been there for a couple months, getting marked down in price (down
to $79 now). I'd guess this critter to be at about 12-14" in length
right now. I know a larger tank is in my future, (<12 months) as well
as upgrades to my skimmer/powerhead/canister filters to match the larger
tank. Do you guys think this guy will be okay with the lion and the
puffer?
<Will be... but am concerned actually re the Hermit... the false crab might do
the eel damage if not fed to satiation often>
By his teeth, I am guessing he's a fish eater but I'm hoping he
can still mix with my fish. That is, If he's not going to try to
swallow things that he's not supposed to.
Thanks in advance.
Chris Higgins
<Yes to this "Puhi" being a piscivore (you can look up this info. on
fishbase.org)... Do keep an eye on that hermit if you decide to place them
together... and train the moray (with a feeding stick) to make sure it's getting
fed. Bob Fenner>
Mixed Moray Tank?
Hey
<Hey there! Scott F. here tonight!>
I was wondering if a Zebra Moray and a Golden-Tailed Moray be compatible in a
150 gallon. My Golden-Tailed Moray is about 2.5 feet and the one I'm thinking to
get is about 3.5 feet. What do you think?
<In theory, these animals may get along, given enough room and hiding places.
Despite Morays' relatively sedentary habits, I think a much larger tank would be
advisable if you are going to attempt this. Another- and perhaps more important-
factor is water quality. Two very large animals that can give off copious
amounts of metabolic waste can really take a toll on water quality. In my humble
opinion, 150 gallons is simply not enough water volume (especially if you have
lots of rocks and substrate, further decreasing the actual water volume) for
these messy animals. I'd enjoy the Golden-Tail and consider a larger tank if you
want to mix and match down the line. Hope this helps! Regards, Scott F>
Gymnothorax saxicola
>Hello, I work at That Fish Place and am purchasing and eel that we've
had for a few weeks now. He is a 2ft black edge moray (Gymnothorax
saxicola according to LiveAquaria.com)
>>So cool to get first pick, etc. That's how I ended up working
the biz, had to pay for my habit somehow! In any event, take a look
at fishbase.org here - http://fishbase.org/Summary/SpeciesSummary.cfm?ID=2616&genusname=Gymnothorax&speciesname=saxicola
(big link, I know). If this is your guy, there's not much listed for
foodstuffs, my guess would be anything that fits in his mouth, though I'm not
familiar with this animal's dentition. Squid, octopus, krill should
all be accepted readily.
>He is going in a 72g tank for a couple week unit I get my 150 set up in my
basement. I'm wondering what you suggest keeping with him? I've
read over all the eel info on your site but didn't see anything on how
aggressive this fish is.
>>I'm going to guess (this is just a guess) that he's not going to be very
aggressive, per se, but will try to sample anything that he thinks might be
tasty.
>I'd love to keep a large puffer/trigger/lionfish but according to much of
your information this may not be a good idea.
>>Lionfish would get my nod, a very docile species of trigger, don't
really know of any puffers, Tobies, similar that I would comfortably house with
him for their aggression or smaller size. Filefishes that are large
enough should be alright, but honestly, I would look to wrasses to fit this
niche.
>For what it's worth the eel was housed with a large sawtail tang and a
6-8" Volitans for about a week with no problems in a 50g tank. We
also have a 1ft black edge moray as well as a few others including tiny
chainlinks, tiny jewels, tiny snowflakes, a 1ft jewel, 1ft Tesselata, 1ft
leopard eel. Would any of these make suitable tank mates?
>>I don't care for snowflakes, the Tesselata, if you're comfortable, might
be a good choice, but my favorite would be the zebra eel (Gymnothorax zebra) for
their docility, and the fact that this animal can easily become a pet. They
can be a bit tricky with feeding, but I'm going to assume that you're working
where you are because you've got some good experience under your belt (and I've
never had a problem with this fish in good conditions).
>BTW, I'm assuming urchins and starfish should be rather safe with these
eels?
>>Starfish (NOT brittles!) yes, urchins, I wouldn't be so sure. Again,
though, I don't know what its dentition presents.
>Thanks for your input, it's much appreciated!! Chris
>>You're very welcome, Chris, and you should enjoy this fish. Also,
make use of your Marine Fish Bible (the ID book by Burgess) to help get an idea
of the possibilities. You can probably locate small, docile puffers,
Tobies, etc. there, acquisition is another issue. The fish in this
system need not be aggressive, just smart. For instance, Coris
gaimard might be a good tankmate - they bury at night and to the best of my
knowledge are fairly safe as such from eels, triggers, Lionfishes, etc. Marina
Non-fish-eating Eels?
Hi,
Are there any moray eels that will leave smaller fish alone like clownfish
and damsels?
Thanks for any info
<The crustacean eaters... e.g. the members of the genus Echidna and
Gymnomuraena... are good choices here. Bob Fenner>
Re: Eels?
Thanks for responding so fast!
So would a snowflake moray be okay with small fish? Would it try to eat them
or would it basically ignore them, since fish aren't even part of their diet in
the wild........I think?!
<Echidnas rarely consume fishes... in the wild or captivity... only when very
hungry w/o other foods available>
Biggest fish in the tank is going to be a Firefish
goby. Would a small moray be preferable or a larger one, that way the eel would
be able to get use to the fish and he wouldn't even be able to get the other
fish down their through?
<Yes, to start>
I found the coolest baby snowflake at the pet shop and
its in the tank with Chromis and baby blue tank and it looks like it he thinks
they aren't even there! Eel is only about 4-5 inches. how big do you think they
would get in a 70 gallon. Thanks again for the info!!!!!
<Ultimately about two feet in length, over several years. Feed it crustaceans
like cocktail et al. human consumption shrimp on a feeding stick. Bob Fenner>
Zebra Moray Eel together
Hi <Hello Darren>
I have 150 UK gallon marine tank with 2 large canister filter a 300 gallon Prizm
protein skimmer and 4x power heads, I also carry out a 20 gallon a water change.
at present I have a 2.5 ft Zebra moray eel & 5inch snow flake. I have tried to
house the zebra with numerous different tank mates over the last 18 months with
not real success, such as tangs, triggers, damsels and a puffer who has just
been sent back to the shop due to eating part of the Zebra's tail.
My question is due to my favourite fish being eels I would like to add a second
much smaller Zebra moray to the tank maybe 1ft in length from your experience
would they get on, given enough caves etc (maybe 4 or 5 places to live). <I
would be amazed if you can find a one foot zebra moray honesty but yes I think
they should be fine.> If not could you suggest another eel that would? <As long
as you keep them fed on a strict schedule and provide lots of nooks and
cranny's. I think you might be able to mix him with most kinds of eels. I just
recently saw one with a small wolf eel. However you should be aware that Bob
Fenner in the WetWebMedia discussion of morays says "Different species of morays
are rarely found together in the wild and do not generally mix well in
captivity. Territoriality within species is not heard of either. Provide mucho
space, nooks and crannies and carefully observe your charges."
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/morays.htm> As always you help would be much
appreciated. Regards Darren <Good luck Darren, MacL>
Gymnothorax Tile Compatibility Issues (5/25/04)
Hello, <Hi. Steve Allen tonight.>
First off I love your incredibly informative website! <Thanks. It is a
pleasure for me to play a small part.> Keep up the amazing work. OK now to my
question. I have been very carefully plotting the fish I would like to place in
my 55 gallon saltwater tank. In my countless hours of research I have fallen in
love with the Gymnothorax Tile (Freshwater Snowflake eel) and when I found it to
be demersal (marine and brackish, right?) <The definition of demersal is:
"Sinking to or lying on the bottom; living on or near the bottom and
feeding on benthic organisms." This fish is indeed primarily at home in
brackish/marine environments.> I decided to check and see if it could coexist
with my other favorite fish a Dwarf or Antennata Lionfish. <Nice fish> My
research has led me to believe that being fish both from the Indo-Pacific region
it's possible that these may even encounter each other in the wild. <Quite
possible> While combing WWM I saw others asking if it could go with an
Echidna Nebulosa (Snowflake Eel) <A favorite of mine>, however because
those tend to grow half a foot to a foot larger than the Gymnothorax Tile and
have much larger heads I am still curious if you think this combination would be
unwise. Thank you so much for your time and effort. <So I guess you read the
post recommending against the Echidna. I have heard stories of eels taking out
some pretty big slow fish (e.g. Lionfishes). Even if you go with the smalles |