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FAQs about Rabbitfish Selection
Related Articles: Rabbitfishes,
Related FAQs: Siganids 1, Siganids
2, Rabbitfish Identification,
Rabbitfish Behavior, Rabbitfish
Compatibility, Rabbitfish Systems,
Rabbitfish Feeding, Rabbitfish
Disease, Rabbitfish Reproduction, | 
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Siganus doliatus, sys./sel. 8/13/09
Hey crew!,
<Hello>
As the title suggests, my question is about the Two Barred Rabbitfish.
<The Two Barred Rabbitfish is actually Siganus virgatus. The Siganus
doliatus is called a Scribbled or Barred Spinefoot Rabbitfish.>
My 75 gallon tank currently has a 3" Kole Tang, 2 small false Percs, 1
Yellow Watchman Goby, 1 Velvet Fairy Wrasse, a couple of Emerald Crabs,
a bunch of hermits, assorted snails, Zoanthids, and some star polyps.
I'd love to have a Siganus doliatus, but I'm wary about my tank being
big enough (I'm sure you'll tell me its not, since I have to ask the
question!). Is there
another Rabbitfish that you would suggest as the last fish in the tank?
<No, these fish grow quite large and a 75 gallon tank isn't really large
enough to properly
house these fish.>
Thanks so much for the help!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Venomous vs. Poisonous: An Anecdote... Mmm, those yummy Rabbitfish
01/06/09 Hello WWM crew, and a happy new year. <Hello
David and Happy New Year to you and yours!> Not a question, but an
anecdote. <Cool!> My wife and I visited her brother and his
family for Christmas last month, which included a new tank of guppies.
Better a tank if guppies than a tank of puppies!> They asked about my
tank, which is a 125g marine with a P. volitans, a Siganus magnifica and
a Z. desjardinii (NB: That is all that will be going in the tank, as far
as fish go). <Yay!> I explained that while the lion and the rabbit
are both venomous, they are not poisonous, and in fact are table fish in
their native areas. <Yes.> Nearby to my brother-in-law's is a
huge specialty supermarket called Jungle Jim's (Fairfield, OH), which
has a bewildering variety of domestic and imported foods. <Have to
remember that the next time I get to Ohio. Me and my guy are both
foodies!> Last week, while pursuing the frozen foods, he came upon
Rabbitfish fillets. <Oh boy, I think I would have a hard time seeing
that... sorta like seeing "filet of Fluffy" to me.> I don't believe
that he purchased any, <Whew!> but it goes to show that these fish
are indeed commercially caught for food, <Yes, and it is my very
hobby-centric predisposition to think anything but that. Sometimes we
need to examine our own preconceived notions.> and can even be had
locally in the US.<I still have a hard time thinking of Rabbitfish as a
meal not a pet, but certainly this is the case with many animals,
depending on one's orientation. Thank you for sharing, and perhaps
enlightening others.> David Kelman <Cheers, Michelle Lemech>
Rabbit fish inquiry, comp., sel. 11/23/08 Hi,
I am going to purchase an algae grazer for my fish only system in the
near future. The system is comprised of a 300 gallon display, 67 gallon
Fug', and 42 gallon sump. The inhabitants include a 10" map puffer, 4"
porcupine puffer, 3" Dragon wrasse, 3" tusk, 3" emp. angel, 2" damsel.
Everyone gets along great. I would like to add one of the less well
known rabbit fishes to the "mix". My concern is that the puffers, who
are very curious as well as sometimes oblivious will find a way to sting
themselves. <Mmm, well... this is a good-sized system... and most all
western Pacific, I.O. fishes recognize Siganids as being "dangerous"...
I give you good odds here...> I have scoured your listings, but have
come up short as to whether another animal that is stung will face
certain death or not. <Could> So to some it up, will my other fish
have some sort of inherited instinct and will keep their distance, and
if not, if they do happen to run into this fish is it certain death?
<Not certain... but at least painful... as I can testify from having
been jabbed on occasion> thanks, Marc <I encourage you to look
into one of my faves, Siganus stellatus... not a great beauty as the
family goes, but a hardy, adaptable algae consuming species. Bob Fenner>
Re: Please help me beat this red algae nightmare!!! Siganid sel.
9/14/08 I am still battling this red algae and have been
unable to locate the specific species of Rabbitfish you suggested. Do
you know of any stores in Va which may carry/obtain this species or a
retailer online? Thanks, Kristina <I would check with "the
usual" (best) suspects... Dr.s Foster and Smith, That Fish Store... Bob
Fenner>
Foxface Inquiry, sel.... 03/19/2008 Hello WWM Crew,
<<G'Morning, Andrew today>> As always, I'd like to start by thanking
the entire crew at WWM for the invaluable support over the years. I'd
have left this hobby (and my hair) years ago if not for this site. My
question today is an easy one regarding livestock compatibility.
<<thanks for the comments>> I've looked through the FAQ's regarding
compatibility and I have a pretty good idea of what the response is
going to be, but I wanted to get feedback before I move forward with my
plans. I currently have a fairly mature 3 year old 90gal FOWLR with a 40
gal sump, for a total system volume of around 110 gal. The system is
doing well with good coralline growth, copepods, very little algae, etc.
I'm lightly stocked for a system of this size (at least in my opinion):
<<A nice system indeed>> - No coral - various snails: Turbos,
Ceriths, Bumblebees, etc. - 1x adult Tomato Clown - 2x adult
Firefish - 1x juvenile Lawnmower Blenny - 2x juvenile Green
Chromis <<Good stocking list>> I'd like to remain understocked,
but would like to add one more specimen to the system, preferably
something a little more on the "showcase" side to fill things out. I'd
also like something relatively reef-safe, as I might move into keeping
some beginner corals in the future. I really, really like the look of
the Foxface, specifically the Magnificent and the Bicolor. <<No
issues with your current stock, however, both are the same regarding a
little caution when housed with LPS and some soft corals as there "may"
be a tendency to nip. However, a good diet / feeding regime it should be
fine. However, the caution given cannot be discarded>> I've
researched thoroughly and am able to provide the proper husbandry for
this fish, but my concern was compatibility with the other fish in the
system. From reading online and talking to other marine enthusiasts, I
don't expect to have too many issues. Every specimen is different, but
in your opinion, can I expect any general issues with the fish in this
system? Any big worries on the (future) coral side? I find the venomous
spines just a tad disconcerting, but it's not a deal breaker for me.
<<I don't see any issues at all with your other stock>> Lastly, the
Foxface article on WWM mentions that aside from a freshwater dip, normal
quarantine procedures are not necessary for this fish. I follow the dip
/ month-long quarantine procedure almost religiously, so I'm wary when
someone suggests it's not necessary. However, I don't have experience
with this species, so you'd be able to comment on that better than I
can. <<I would say its necessary for ANY fish, and must be done>>
Comments / thoughts welcome. Thanks again! - Drew <<Thanks for
the questions Drew, hope this helps. A Nixon>>
Stocking Advice...125g FOWLR – 10/18/07 Hello crew and thanks for
all the great advice. <<Always welcome>> Eric R. has been helping
me with stocking advice so if you could steer my question in his
direction that would be great <<I am here...>> if not here is what
I have: 125g FOWLR with a 4" Assasi Trigger, 3" Flame Angel and the last
fish in was a 4" White Cheek Tang. After researching the FAQs and a few
other sources, I have decided to go with a Rabbitfish and wanted to know
if the Scribbled Rabbitfish has any drawbacks versus other Rabbitfish.
<<Not in my opinion...Siganus doliatus is an excellent choice>> From
what I have read this species seems suited for the tank size, aggressive
tank mates and is an excellent consumer of algae. <<Am in
agreement... In fact, I have a pair in my 375g reef display (this is
also a species of Siganid that will “pair up” as adults)>> Any
negative aspects, other than the venom, that I am missing? <<This
fish “will” require supplemental feedings of algae/vegetable matter
along with whatever else you feed your fishes (hopefully Spectrum
pelleted food is part of this repertoire). Mine “love” “green” Sea
Veggies offered by Two Little Fishies...with an occasional (twice
weekly, or so) soak in Selcon or Vita-Chem before feeding also proving
beneficial>> Thanks again. <<Quite welcome. EricR>>
Dictyota control and Rabbitfish - 05/02/07 I am a loyal
reader of the WWM site, and have gained a tremendous amount of expert
advice and guidance, paying no more than a couple of mouse clicks and
some key strokes. For that reason, I feel obligated to share
something that I have come across, hoping to give a small piece back to
the WWM community. <I/we thank you> I have a 125 Gallon reef
tank, with 2 bubble tip anemones (was one, split a few months back), 1
large branching Acropora , 1 large Montipora , 1 orange plate coral, 1
green open brain, 1 clam, several branches of frogspawn, and other
assorted small corals. Also swimming are 2 Solomon Island Black
Perculas , 1 royal Gramma , 1 Kole Tang, and 2 clown gobys. About 6
months ago, I started to get an algae bloom of what I would later learn
was the dreaded Dictyota . Unaware of its nature, I tried to
remove the Dictyota , but this only made things worse, spreading like
wildfire around the tank. I was removing tons of it every week,
but I was only managing to keep it short, it was covering about 2/3 of
the visible rock in the tank. I only managed to keep corals from
being choked out by siphoning off chunks of the Dictyota that surrounded
each one 2X a week. I did my research on line, where urchins,
diadema , and sea hares were all rumored to eat the stuff….they didn’t.
The owner of my LFS said that he knew no way of ridding the tank, short
of a 2 month lights out period (that would not be so good for the
corals). Naso tangs were also rumored to eat the Dictyota, and in
fact on ate some at the store so I brought him home. He started to
eat the stuff, but then after one day, refused to eat anymore, and he
died a couple of weeks later. If seemed to me that he may have
died from eating the algae, which I hear can be noxious. Not wanting
to kill another fish, I decided on a last resort, something I had seen
written somewhere obliquely on a posting. I bought a two-barred
Rabbitfish . He didn’t eat anything for the first two days in the
tank. On day three, I saw him nibbling a little on the algae.
Over the next three weeks, I saw him actively swimming, and nipping only
once in while. Yet his belly seemed full, near bursting.
It has now been only a month, and the Dictyota is all but completely
gone. I cannot believe I have my tank back. I still am
in shock that 8 months worth of frustration is over. It seems
impossible to me that this tiny wonder of about 3 inches ate what must
of amounted to 8 lbs of algae or more. With the algae gone
(hopefully never to return), I now have a hero of a fish, who instead of
dining on Dictyota , will enjoy a life of Nori , greens, herbivore
preparations, and protein. I am not sure if you have a forum for
this, <Oh yes... both for Rabbitfish Selection and Brown Macrophyte
control> but please share this with your readers. Searches for
info on the subject brought about frustratingly pessimistic analyses.
I want to let people know that Dictyota can be defeated, and all it
takes is a three inch lawnmower called the two-barred Rabbitfish .
Brant Goldsmith <Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner> Caulerpa
takeover, biological controls 11/21/06 Dear Crew:
<Hey Paul, JustinN here with you> I want to introduce an herbivore
in my 75-gallon reef aquarium to combat an outbreak of Caulerpa
racemosa. <Mmm, I believe this to be one of the Caulerpa
sp. that is typically less than palatable to most herbivores.> I've
heard that a tang or rabbit fish may be my best choice but I am
concerned with the small size of my tank. I may want to introduce a
juvenile fish and remove it before it outgrows my tank.
<Can be done, but its better in my opinion to get something you would
prefer to keep, and could happily live its life in the settings.> I
understand that the juveniles of some species will not graze on
Caulerpa. A Reefkeeping article (http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-05/hcs3/index.php)
states, "filamentous algae will require a juvenile rabbitfish while
Caulerpa species and other tougher, meatier algae will require adults."
- What species of juvenile tang or rabbit fish will graze on Caulerpa?
- What Caulerpa-grazing tang or rabbit fish have the smallest adult size
and can best tolerate a small tank? Thanks very much, Paul.
<While your tank is considered the borderline for such Zebrasoma sp.
such as Yellow Tangs, my recommendation would be for a rabbitfish, such
as Siganus vulpinus. Assuming you don't have an overly aggressive set of
tankmates, it is my belief that this fish would make a wonderful
addition to your tank, and may provide the biological control you are
looking for. Do note, however, that manual extraction may continue to be
necessary, as there is the possibility that either species will not
consume the Caulerpa. Hope this helps you! -JustinN>
Rabbitfishes/Foxfaces Hi Bob, I was wondering if you had a
recommendation if at all for any kind of Rabbitfishes for a reef
aquarium with clams and lawnmower blennies? There are so many types
and I'm not sure which would do best for string algae/Caulerpa control.
<Do take a look here
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/rabbitfi.htm and in the linked FAQ file
for help.> Thanks, Jackson <You are welcome. -Steven Pro>
Waskly Wabbits! (Rabbitfishes) I have a 65 gallon reef that needs
a good algae eater. I am told that tangs shouldn't go in a tank this
size. <I think that's pretty good advice!> I also understand that
Rabbitfish are a very good herbivore. Is there a Rabbitfish that would
be comfortable long term in a 65 gallon tank? Fred <In my opinion,
Fred- not really. Pretty much every available Rabbitfish in the hobby
reaches a minimum of 7 inches or so- these guys need space just like
tangs do. They also are very sensitive to less than optimal water
conditions, often being referred to by hobbyists as "ich magnets". I'd
stick to some of the less "space-demanding" herbivores, like
blennies...For example, the "Lawnmower Blenny", Salarias fasciatus, or
the "Redlip Blenny", Ophioblennius atlanticus (a neat fish, but
sometimes can nip an occasional coral or clam mantle...never happened in
my tanks, however). These guys can do a nice job on algae, and although
they can get over 4 inches, they don't have nearly the requirements for
space that tangs and Rabbitfishes do. Also, some people use pygmy
angelfishes (Centropyge) for herbivores (Now- I don't want every reefer
out there to freak out and say that "Scott is suggesting using a Flame
Angel for algae control!"). These fishes come with a variety of
personalities and tendencies, including a propensity for nipping and
eating corals in some cases! However, a large percentage of their diet
is comprised of vegetable matter, so I include them here for
completeness. In your tank, you'd definitely want the smaller "models",
like C. argi, or C. acanthops. Both of these little guys can be feisty,
however, so choose tankmates carefully. Use the wetwebmedia.com site for
more research into herbivorous fishes. Good luck! Regards, Scott F>
Waskly Wabbits (Pt. 2) Sigh, too bad on the no for a rabbit in a
65. Some are actually very nice-looking fish. <The certainly are!
They simply need a fair amount of space.> I will go with the
lawnmower blenny. <A good choice, IMO! You'll really enjoy his antics
and personality. You certainly won't be "settling" with this guy!> On
another note, what can you tell me about convict blennies? I saw a few
in a local store and they are very interesting looking. As far as I
have been able to find out, they are reef safe. <These are pretty
neat fishes! I'm assuming that you're referring to Pholidichthys
leucotaenia...They are generally peaceful and usually very hardy.>
The only negative I have heard is that they dig in the sandbed all the
time. Is this because to do not have a deep enough sand bed? How deep
a bed do they need? <Unfortunately, this is a rather annoying
behavior for most people. The danger is that they can cause "cave-ins"
of rockwork, and can bury corals and other sessile animals with their
digging behavior. They can also cause damage to deep sand beds,
disrupting the nitrifying processes occurring in the sand. You'd
certainly want a fairly deep bed, at least 4 inches, possibly more. Once
again, I'd recommend creating rock work that is not adversely affected
by the digging habits of this fish.> Thanks, Fred <Good luck with
your tank! I'm sure that you'll enjoy your future fish purchases if you
plan for their needs accordingly. Good luck! Regards, Scott F>
You say tomato, I say Acanthuroid <MikeD here> You are
a wealth of knowledge.<Thank you...now you're making me feel REALLY
old!> I really appreciate it. I read on your FAQ about Yellow tangs
being prone to ick, would a Foxface Lo be a better choice?<For a
relative beginner, quite probably if you're satisfied with the
appearance. Similar intensity of the yellow, with the brown/white as a
contrast, VERY similar habits, and, like the tangs, only one per
tank. Some of the other Rabbitfish can be kept in groups, but the Lo
will definitely attack conspecifics as it grows, and other family
members as well. These are very hardy, get along well with lionfish and
quite ick and disease resistant as well.>
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