Water Circulation (Flow) For a 180g Marine “Softie” Tank …In Malta!- 07/05/08
Hi,
<<Hello>>
I am Anthony from Malta.
<<Greetings Anthony…Eric from South Carolina here (though currently visiting in Nebraska)>>
I have a 700 l marine reef tank with mainly soft corals and polyps and I wish to upgrade the tank's circulation as it is a bit sluggish.
<<Common to most hobbyists’ tanks I feel… I am a big proponent for heavy and vigorous water circulation in most marine systems. It does so much good, yet is seemingly often overlooked…or maybe just underestimated>>
The rocks in my tank are forming a slope from the bottom to the top. Can you please guide me on how many powerheads I have to use, the positioning and the model? I wish to use the Hydor Koralia.
<<These are a good choice… For this size tank I would recommend the largest model, the Koralia 4. I would use as minimum of four units (more smaller units may be needed depending on the rockwork, to avoid areas of very low flow), positioning two at each end and facing the units opposite to create some random turbulent flow>>
Thanks in advance for your help and for your great website,
Anthony
<<Happy to share. Eric Russell>>
P.S. Sorry to write this e-mail again but I forgot to enter the tank's dimension. It is 6 feet by 2feet by 2feet.
Thanks again.
<<Ah yes… in this country this is a standard and popular offering of 180gal U.S.…a very nice size for such displays. Regards, EricR>>

Protein Skimmer Question 06/02/2008
Good afternoon guys,
<<And Gals i hope... Andrew with you today>>
First let me say your site is amazing, this is my first question to you b/c I have always been able to find the answers I needed by searching.
<<Thanks for the kind words>>
However for this one I seem to be having a little trouble (although I'm sure it's here somewhere.) First my set up which has been running for 7 months now and has consistently had the numbers to follow: 45 Gal. (high), custom show tank (reef), 55 lbs of live rock making pinnacles and caves modeled on a site/reef I dived and photographed in the Lembeh Strait, Sulawesi (avid underwater phtog here), 3 - 5 inches of live sand sloping back. My numbers Ammonia, Trite & Trates all 0, Ph 8.3, Calcium 423, Mag 1270, DKH 10.5, Phosphates 0 and strontium 15. Aqua C Remora Pro skimmer and 1 - 150 watt Metal Halide with 14 K bulb and 1 PC dual compact 80 w (1 pure daylight & 1 pure actinic) all in all ~ 6 watts per gallon. Inhabitants are 1 true percula, 2 cardinal fish, a mated pair of Coral Banded Shrimp (she's constantly carrying and laying eggs which are a nice supplemental feedings for the tank and both are gentle with the tank mates - coral not so much), btwn 5 - 10 (of each) blue legged hermits, Nassarius, cone head and margarita snails. Corals are 6 different types of mushroom (orange, blue, red and green, 1 Palythoa polyp, 1 open brain coral (red) and after much reading prior to buying I now have a gorgeous Goniopora sp. (green) the size of a child's basketball (the ones pizza hut used to give away at the final four) and that's just when he does not feel like coming all the way out - he usually does and he's bigger at times and is always out when the lights are on from day 1 (even in the acclimating container.. =).
<<Sounds like a wonderful setup you have there>>
Well needless to say I love him and have taken it upon myself to read everything I can get my hands on on their care and difficulty of care. Spot feedings of Cyclops-eeze mixed with zoo, brine shrimp shavings and DT's oyster eggs several times per week. OK enough about my tank and on to the real question:
<<Ok>>
I have always been running the protein skimmer constantly 24 hrs. per day except while feeding when it is off and timed for 1 1/2 hrs. when I first started in reefing I didn't even think about how long may be good or not good to run the skimmer. So I started to do a little research and found out others only run theirs for several hours per day. What would you (the pro's) advise for my situation and tank?
<<To be honest, personal preference. I would have to say its about a split 50 / 50 of people i know who run all the time, a nd some on timers. Personally, i don't run one at all. If you can run 24/7, then i don't see any harm in it, this is usually the common advise to give. Some of the people i know who run their skimmer for only part of the day, actually only do this to cut down their electric consumption>>
I'm thinking a timer kicking it on during the night-time & off ___________? would be nice so I don't have to see all the micro-bubbles = ), but you...?
<<If you have a micro bubble issue with the skimmer, then i would attempt all avenues possible to rectify this. I do know that sometimes, no matter what is done, it cannot be stopped. So, if you do only want to run it for part of the day, then yes, run it through the night while tank viewing is not being done>>
Can you advise a time estimate for my skimmer? Or anything I could read upon for the Goni, I have all the common books, but maybe I'm missing one or two. Thanks so much for your time and all you do to help us little guys out. Alex - Manhattan, NYC where I can't SCUBA dive without a shot...
<<Please do read more on the Goniopora here including linked articles and FAQ's http://wetwebmedia.com/poritidae.htm >>
<<Thanks for the questions, hope this helps. A Nixon>>

New filtration for a reef tank 05/29/2008
Hello WWM crew,
<<Hello, Andrew here, blowing the dust off his keyboard>>
I want to tell you that I have found your site absolutely enlightening.
<<Thank you for the kind words>>
Let me tell you a little about my tank. I bought it used and working from someone who was getting rid of their tank (5 months ago). It was a 75 gallon FO glass tank with 2 catfish which I quickly traded for a clownfish and 5 green chromis from the LFS. It had a fluval 404 canister filter and a Remora Pro Skimmer. 2 powerheads, a Rio 1400 and a MaxiJet 1200 and a 300w heater. I bought Bob's book "The Cons. Mar. Acq." and am learning so much, thank you.
<<Sounds wonderful>>
I bought about 35 lbs of live rock, and added 40 lbs of live sand (sugar grain size) to the sand that was already in the tank (which was coarser than the sand I added), is this OK or should I separate the finer sand from the gravel?.
<<Under normal circumstances, I would of suggested swapping the existing sand, and using just the fine aragonite sand. However, as its already in there, it should be fine>>
My tank then became a FOWLR, I added a Yellow tang, pajama + flame cardinal, and an engineer goby. I learned it was good to test the water and do water changes, which I have been doing about every 2-3 weeks (about 10 gallons).
<<I would suggest going for 10% water change per week, to keep on top of the trace elements available to the inhabitants>>
My tests had been AMM, Nitrites, Nitrates=0, but PH has been 7.8 all along. Then about 3 weeks ago I tested the Nitrates and they were 160!!!
<<This could be due to the mixing of the sandbed. Large water changes would bring this down>>
I became alarmed, I started to read and re-read about
Nitrates, and that is when I found your web site. What an eye opener.
: )
I saw your article on nitrates and learned that I needed to correct the situation, SLOWLY, so that calmed me a little. Then, yesterday my fluval 404 canister went out on me. So this brings me to you, and why I am writing.
<<Ok>>
I've searched through the FAQ's and the articles, once again, very helpful, but I would still like to ask you if what I am thinking to do is OK or if you have a better suggestion.
My goal is to transition to a reef tank. From what I've read, I believe the canister filter is not a good choice for a reef tank, so it's OK that it broke.
<<Agreed>>
I've been reading on WWM about DSB and I have about 2.5 inches, I was thinking of adding more to make it 4 inches, would this be enough for denitrification?
<<To a certain degree, yes, however, I deem a DSB at least 6 inches. Hence why most people will utilize a DSB in a sump tank>>
Also, my engineer goby moves the sand around like crazy, would this affect the DSB?
<<Not really, should be fine>>
I am planning on buying about 40 more pounds of live rock, which I believe will also help to denitrify. Will this be enough for my tank without a chemical filter?
<<Yes, that will give you about 75lbs of live rock, which will happily carry out filtration for you>>
Do you recommend a refugium? It would have to be a HOB because my tank is not drilled so I cannot add a sump. If so, which one would you recommend.
<<I would certainly recommend a refugium, as these are great for nutrient export and for cultivating copepod growth. Which to recommend? Well, there are quite a few on sites like Drs Foster and Smith, Marinedepot.com or ebay.com which are all basically the same and do the same job. Just ensure you buy a good sized refugium>>
Someone in my LFS said he did not like refugiums, but I'm not sure why.
<<I am unsure why as well, as these can only benefit an aquarium>>
Please advice on what I should do.
I am also learning that in this hobby there are many contradicting opinions, so I'm sticking pretty much to what you guys are recommending because you give pretty good advice, backed up with experience and knowledge.
<<Yes, you can go to 10 sites, and get 10 different opinions. However, sticking to one good opinion and following it through is a good idea>>
Thank you in advance, I really appreciate your help. I love this whole saltwater marine ecosystem thing, it absolutely fascinates me.
Thanks again,
Sincerely, Erika
<<Thanks for the questions Erika, I hope this helps. A Nixon>>

Airstone Only, in a Reef Tank? 5/27/2008
Howdy,
<Hi David, Pufferpunk here. For future reference, when you send us a query, you need to use proper capitalization, spelling & punctuation, as this has to be fixed by us before posted in our FAQs & is very time consuming.>
I have a 55 gallon with 115 lbs of good cured live rock. It's only been up for a month now and the only residents are a coral banded shrimp a 3 stripe damsel and a few snails/feather dusters that came on the rock. The ammonia spiked a week and a half in and now I’m getting 0 ammonia 0 nitrite and <10 ppm for nitrate. I have cp
<Power compact?>
lighting, 4 65 watt bulbs and led moonlights (so pretty!). I intend to cover this tank with mushroom polyps, Zoanthids and either 3 3-4inch fish or 8 1-2 inch fish and many more shrimps and snails.
Ok, here are the questions:
1. I am running filter less. I have a pretty big air pump running to three lime wood "air stones" spaced one at each end and one in the middle, think this will work out for me?
<I do not believe you have enough flow in this tank. Water flow is even more important than light. See: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/1/aafeature
IMO, a skimmer is important too & if you saw the nasty gunk a skimmer removed from your water, you’d never go without one again.>
2. I have a few extra bulbs and am curious what you think would be better for this tank. 2 actinic and two 50/50 (that's what I have running now) or two 10k and two actinic or two 10k's and 2 50/50's or some other combination? Ok, I reread that and just to make sure there's no confusion, I have 3 10k, 2 50/50 & 3 actinic bulbs and need the best combo of 4 for mushrooms/Zoanthids.
<I think you’ll be happiest with the color & growth you get from 2 10k and 2 actinic. I put the white bulbs in the back.>
Thanks in advance and thank you even more for the site. You wouldn't believe what a huge help it's been in my research!
<Thank you for the kind words. Please be a help to us & read your letter carefully & correct before sending. This took more time to respond to than necessary. ~ PP>
Cheers, David

Skimmer Selection for New Reef Tank  3/30/08
Hello there Bob & Crew,
<<Hey Mike, Adam J here.>>
I trust this latest inquiry finds you all well.
<<Yes, thanks.>>
Thank you for the help to date as I continue my upgrade (from my 72gal) project.
<<Hope it’s going well.>>
Well, I finally received my Oceanic Model 3 sump to go with my new, but still dry, Oceanic 72" 215 gal reef ready tank.
<<Has potential.>>
It will include approx. 175-200lbs LR with 3-4" sand base, will be lit by
the Coralife Pro 3 x 250 MH & PC setup (approx. 1150W) and will house 2 Zebrasomas, a Maroon Clown, a Six Line, a Falco Hawkfish, a Coral Beauty, a
Copperband and a Heniochus (plus the usual Brittlestars, Snails, Crabs, etc.) and a variety of LPS and some softies.
<<Do keep in mind the butterflies may be of some risk in a mixed reef tank.>>
Now, it's skimmer time.
<<As opposed to hammer time…>>
I am at the point where I am trying to decide between two Turboflotor 1000s or one Turboflotor 5000 Shorty Compact (at about 24" in height). There is
the redundancy of two 1000s and the huge cup capacity of the 5000. There are just enough pros and cons back and forth that I look to you for some last minute advice. I suppose, at this point, the question should be as simple as would you recommend either of these options and if so, which option do you think would
be better.
<<Well honestly, the 5000 would probably be the best choice out of the two, however as far as the brand goes…I have found them to not be as consistent as I would like. For the price there are some other choices I would make.>>
If not, is there some other skimmer option that you think I'm missing and/or should be considering.
<<Take a look at a multitude of brands, it doesn’t hurt to look around and see which can be adapted to your system...look at Aqua-C, EuroReef, ASM, MRC, Deltec, Tunze, those are some the common selections . . .see other crew-members recommendations here;
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/proskimrart2.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i1/protein_skimmer_impressions.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/skimbestof.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/skimselfaqs.htm .>>
I'm looking primarily for "in cabinet" (approx. 29") quality and reliability here. Plus or minus a few bucks here will not be the determining factor.
<<See above.>>
As always, your time and consideration are appreciated.
<<Let me know should you need any more direction.>>
Thank you,
<<Anytime.>>
Mike from Canada, eh.
<<Adam J. for SoCal, dude.>>

Moving up to a 110 gallon system... reading re stkg., canister filters/reef   3/15/08
Hello Crew,
<Cinnamon, let me in!>
I have been a fan of your site since I found it. Great advice.
<Thanks>
Here in my question. I currently have a 60 gallon reef system. I am running a Marineland Emperor Bio-Wheel 400 Power Filter, a Aqua C Remora Protein Skimmer with Maxijet 1200 Pump and a Current Orbit(2) 65w Dual Daylight and (2) 65w Dual Actinic lighting system. Two MaxiJet 1200 powerheads and One 200 watt heater. I also have about 60 to 80 lbs of live rock and a 2 to 3 inch sand bed.
The current residents of the 60 gallon, (listed below) will be relocating to the 110 gallon mentioned below. Except for the tomato clowns and the Yellow Belly Blue Damsel. They will be going back to the LFS.
1 yellow tang 4in
2 tomato clowns
1 Lyretail Anthias 3"
1 Yellow Belly Blue Damsel
1 Coral Beauty Angelfish 4"
2 Scarlet Cleaner Shrimp
1 Fire Shrimp
2 Serpent Starfish
1 Hawaiian Feather Duster
15 assorted snails
1 Long tentacle anemone and 1 short tentacle
Several different types of mushrooms, polyps and Zoanthids.
I purchased the 110 gallon tank, (48 x 30 x 18) with no overflow, to be my new reef system. My plan is to run a Eheim 2028 Professionel II Canister Filter,
<Mmm, good product... I use them on my FW tanks... but am not such a fan for marine... part. reef set-ups. Please see WWM re: http://wetwebmedia.com/marcanfiltuse.htm>
two Hydor Koralia 3 - 850GPH powerheads, Aqua C Remora Pro Protein Skimmer with Mag 3 Pump, two Aquarium Systems Visi-Therm 200 Watt Heater and the Current Orbit(2) 65w Dual Daylight and (2) 65w Dual Actinic lighting system which is on my current system. I know my current lighting system will need to be upgraded at some point, but do you think I will be able to go with this one for now?
<If you can arrange your stinging-celled life to be about the same depth of water as currently>
I will also have about 75 to 100 lbs of live rock and a 2 to 3 inch sand bed. Any recommendations would be helpful?
<Deeper, finer substrate is better... also posted: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsubstr.htm
and the linked files above.>
I would also like to add the following resident to the new system, if you approve? I do not want to overload my system.
2 Maroon Clownfish
1 Blonde Naso Tang. I know he will need to be in a larger system in a couple of years.
<Mmm, no... immediately. I would not keep a Naso species in anything less than six feet long/wide... See... WWM... re...>
Already planning on a 180 system.
1 Full size angel?
<... Not a good idea>
Hardy and reef safe any suggestions?
<Posted...>
I know there is no guarantee on it being reef safe.
1 Blue Jaw Trigger or Niger Trigger?
A group of schooling fish. Any suggestions?
<Reading. Bob Fenner>

No Questions, Just Thanks 2/19/08
Hi Crew
<Hi Garry>
Having been away from the hobby for over ten years (major family illness meant no time) I am now approaching that time when the reef bug has caught hold and gone from being latent to rampant again.
<Ah, the bug has bit.>
Much has changed, although I seem to have done much of what is current anyway, refugia, big skimmers, live rock filtration methods, etc etc (more by accident than design I might add), and finding your site has allowed the dream and adventure to begin on a much more solid foundation than before. I know my stocking rates have always been light and my filtration heavy but it always worked for me and I only ever seemed to lose a fish shrimp or whatever through old age or accident. It is good to know that what I did in the past is advised as being the way to go today.
<Not much has changed but technology.>
So this is just a big thank you to everyone from Bob to Steve to anyone who replies to the thousands of questions people come up with. Your site has replaced a lot of faith I have lost with the industry (hobby) what with shops who don't have a clue (keeping a few small wrasse with an Anglerfish is just one example), and staff about as knowledgeable (sorry if that's spelt wrong) as a garbage man in a hospital.
<Thank you for your kind words. James (Salty Dog)>
Regards
Garry Holter (in the UK)
Oh I'm an ecologist by training and understand community structure very well (it formed my D.Phil research for 4 years) and boy does that help in structuring a reef aquarium. <<Would very much encourage your writing... re the many useful tie-ins here. Bob Fenner>>
<Mmmm>

Filtration Recommendations, Protein Skimmers, Refugium – 1/2/08
Brenda et al,
<Art>
Thanks for responding to my fishy questions!
<You’re welcome!>
I have a 45 gallon saltwater aquarium FOWLR and will gradually change to a beginning reef fish tank with your help and LFS. Currently I have a wet/dry filter and typically a nitrate factory. I invested in this when I started my aquarium 8/30/07. I regret my newbie choice in the filtration.
<You’re not alone in the regrets of a newbie. We’ve all been there.>
Could you provide specific brand and type of filtration that I might replace it with this New Year 08? I have 5 small damsels, 2 gobies, 1 small clown fish, 12 assorted hermit crabs, 1 black urchin, 1 brown crab and several small/med snails. I have 40 #s of LR.
<A good protein skimmer is your best option here. I recommend a lot of research on protein skimmers before you purchase. There are a lot of poor choices that can be made. I personally use the Aqua C skimmers for my reef tanks. More information here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i1/protein_skimmer_impressions.htm and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/proskimrart2.htm . Read through the FAQ’s regarding skimmers. I also use and recommend a refugium. More information found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm . You will want to read all the articles and FAQ’s associated with refugiums.
Thanks, Art
<You’re welcome! Hope this helps! Brenda>

Filtering materials in reef tank – 1/2/08
Hi CREW
Wish you all a very HAPPY NEW YEAR.
Now here is my NEW YEAR question.
What kind of filtering materials can be used in a reef tank sump?
I have a 75g reef tank and was thinking of making a sump for it.
Thanking you
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
the second tray down. Bob Fenner>

Should I Use A Canister Filter? - 12/31/07
Hi Eric or whoever is on duty this evening,
<<Hiya Ken...Eric here>>
My 90 gallon SPS tank is doing great.
<<Excellent>>
I recently set up a second tank primarily for a RBTA and a pair of Clarkii clown fish.
<<Neat!>>
I will probably add another 4 small fish and some star polyps and mushrooms at some point.
<<Mmm, too bad...the tank/anemone would fare much better in the long term without the polyps and mushrooms trying to constantly poison it>>
The tank is a 46 gallon bow (3 foot length) with about 65 pounds of live rock, TEK 5 T5 lighting, two Tunze 6025 Nano Stream powerheads, and a Deltec hang on back skimmer. I am not using a sump. Even though I can make a large % water change with a couple of buckets of new water, or water from my SPS tank with this size tank if I ever run into trouble, I was wondering if I should add a canister filter to my set up?
<<I would...for chemical filtration (carbon/Poly-Filter)>>
If I did this, I would not use the bio media or noodles, and just use the sponge for mechanical filtration to trap debris.
<<If you do...be sure to clean the filter sponge of detritus one or more times a week, else the canister filter will become more of a "problem" than a "solution">>
I could also use it for PhosBan etc if needed.
<<Indeed>>
I have no mechanical filtration in my SPS tank, but the debris eventually will end up in my sump which I can then clean out.
<<Agreed... And with good strong water flow, the suspended detritus (or marine snow, if you like) is actually quite good "food" for your corals>>
This tank has no sump. I of course will have a clean up crew for the tank. Do you think the canister filter is a good idea or a waste of money?
<<Can be quite useful, as described/when maintained properly>>
If it is a good idea, is Eheim still the way to go?
<<Many choices available these days...but you won't go wrong with the Eheim product>>
Thanks,
Ken
<<Happy to help. EricR>>

Filtration question, SW... Reef maint.  12/30/07
Howdy, Crew!
<Hello!!>
I have my 125 display tank in the living room, and 100 stock tank sump in the basement. I currently run an Iwaki MD-100 from the basement to pump +/- 2000 gph upstairs. The tank upstairs has about 150 lbs of live rock, a heater, and my livestock. There was no filtration physically in the tank until I started this project. The sump downstairs has one of the two system heaters in it, about 40 lbs of live rock, and the protein skimmer.
I am now turning off my MD-100 at 9pm at night, from the sump to the display, turning on a Rio 2500 in the tank, and the skimmer in the sump. I go from about 2000 gph to about 800 gph. Would the lighter circulation be all right for the fish at night?
<Should be.>
I have a 1"-2" crushed coral bed. Flow is still decent with the small pump running. I aimed it at the front glass, so the flow splits and goes both ways. Even my anemone still has movement.
Candy canes have feeding tentacles out further than I've ever seen them before. When the MD-100 is off, the sump in the basement catches all the overflow water (as during a power outage.) That being said, since the water level rises in the sump at night, I turn on the skimmer at night. If I left it on during the day, the water level is low enough, it doesn't skim at all anyway. I turn the main pump back on at 9am, and the skimmer back off.
What I have considered so far:
-Water temperatures being different, so I have heaters in tank and sump.
<Good.>
-Aeration, so I have the display tank pump aimed toward the surface to facilitate good gas exchange, and the sump has the protein skimmer to move water and aerate.
<This will help.>
I haven't checked the pH upstairs and downstairs to see if it differs much.
<I bet it will.>
Can you foresee see any ill effects of me doing this? I don't see any problem so far. It's been 3 days, and everyone appears happy. Even my hippo tang shows no signs of stress or ich. Some guys from my club said I would lose filtration, but I know some people don't even use a sump The water still moves, just not up-down.
<The real downside hear is stability. You are creating two systems every twelve hours, then recombining them. I have personally seen systems that do exactly this with good success, mainly for the power savings. I personally wouldn’t, just for stability sake.>
Any insight would be appreciated!
<I would at least try to get the skimmer running during the day. You may need to add a little sump next to your big sump (such as a 20 gal tank) to get the water height to run your skimmer in. Skimming with the setup now is only skimming less than half the water half the time.>
Thanks and have a safe and happy New Year!
Eric Z.
<Sure will Eric, same to you and yours. Good luck and happy reefing, Scott V.>

Filtration on 80gal Bowfront 12/29/07
Hello Crew,
<Hello, Scott V. with you.>
Thank you for the time and experience you share with all of us.
I've always been interested in keeping a saltwater and tank and was encouraged to pursue my interest last year when given a 20gal tank. I started up the tank in September last year with a basic filter, powerhead, heater and live rock. In October I added a couple yellow-tail damsels and then added a couple of False Ocellaris Clownfish in November. I was able to maintain good levels and healthy fish and I had a nice growth of coralline algae. In the spring of this year, I added a mushroom and then during this last summer, I added a Xenia, which I unfortunately watched suffer. It was only at its demise that I became more aware of the need to test for calcium.
<And alkalinity?>
During the summer I also noticed an outbreak of red slime algae and decided it was time to invest in a skimmer (AquaC Remora).
<Good move.>
Now that the skimmer is running and I've kept up on water changes, I have been able to maintain a healthy Kenyi tree that is spreading all over the tank, a leather finger and a leather coral. All this said to say that I am fascinated with the craft decided I have to expand .I now have an 80 gal. bowfront awaiting decisions on a filtration system.
Since all I have known is hang-ons, I've been reading up and am leaning toward a sump and a separate refugium.
<Yes, if you are going to upgrade, this is the way to go.>
Please review and let me know your thoughts on the current design. I would like to house a reef tank with a medium load of fish, and LR. In terms of corals, I would like to consider clams, anemone, brain coral, leathers, Acropora, torch coral, xenia. This is just a sampling of what I am interested in and want to design for.
<I would skip the anemone and limit mixing the soft corals with hard.>
Since my stand is a bowfront, I am somewhat limited in space. The opening on the back is 27.5" wide and 30.5" tall and the interior space is 32" wide x 12" deep by 30.5" tall
1) Sump - Reef Devil Reef Sump by AE Tech (28 x 11x 16)
Compartment 1 - micron bag, skimmer, skimmer pump
Compartment 2 - will use mechanical or chemical filtration as appropriate
Compartment 3 - pump back to tank
<OK>
2) Skimmer - AquaC EV120 or Euro-Reef RS100 (not sure if I should be considering the EV180). Should I consider anyone of these more than the other. I would like the quietest if there is a difference as this tank will be in the family room.
<The EuroReef in my opinion.>
3) Pumps - I have not even looked at pumps yet (will once again be interested in quiet operating pumps)
<Considering space limitations, a submersible, Eheim hands down.>
4) Lighting - 48" Corallife Aqualight Pro (2x150W HQI MH (10,000K) + 2 96W PC + 3 LED)
<Will be fine.>
5) Water Flow - for additional water movement, I am installing a closed loop system of 1" pvc pipes buried in the base sand (3" bed) with 8-45 degree angles forcing water into the tank from all sides. I will also have 2 outlets in the top rear corners. Both the lower and upper system will be run off pumps located under the tank. These are in addition to the outflow from the sump.
<How much flow do you plan to run through these? Given the size of the tank, eight outputs low and two above is just too many. If your pump is sized to your tank this will provide very little dynamic flow. If your pump is sized to your outputs, this will be way too much flow. Also, I assume you plan to drill this tank. If you do please check to see if the bottom is tempered, it likely is. If so, you will not be able to safely drill it. >
6) UV Sterilizer (to be added in the future)
<I would skip this.>
7) Refugium - Ecosystem Refugium 100M (24 x 8 x 8) - considering adding this in the future on top of the sump
<I suppose this could work. For the money spent on both the refugium and sump, I would consider having one made that simply incorporates both into one design, or possibly fabricating yourself.>
Sorry for the lengthy post. I'm just really wanting to do this as right as possible the first time.
<No problem.>
Thank in advance.
Jason
<Welcome, good luck, Scott V.>

Marine Filtration 9/27/07 – 9/27/07
Hello all (esp. Scott F.).
<Hi Stan, James with you today.>
After avoiding a mistake (putting too many or too big a fish in my 75 gallon tank), I am now focusing on filter design and set-up, and committing to wait at least a month before adding any livestock. I now have my kids doing research with me, so they understand proper husbandry and care requirements (okay, they are 3 and 6, but they are at least involved).
<Ah, no better time to get them started.>
It looks like I am going to set up a fish only tank (with small fish!) then converting over to a reef set up later on, so I want to make sure that my sump design is on target. I am looking at a 29 gallon sump, which will hold about 12 gallons or so in the lower portion, with a separate refugium chamber fed by a powerhead (expect about 150 gph) which will flow back into the main sump. I'll use the refugium chamber as a bubble trap, along with a filter pad on each end. For skimming, I'll have an Aqua-C Remora on the main tank. Flow through the sump itself should be about 450 gph.
The display will have 80 lbs of base rock, along with a 1" bed of live sand, and about 10 lbs of Tonga live rock to seed the base rock and add some variation to the look.
In the refugium, I plan on placing a 5" DSB along with 5-10 lbs of live rock rubble.
<I'd go no more than 3">
I hope to order some benthic organisms and macroalgae online, as my LFS doesn't have them.
Question...will this set up work for a reef tank (I'll add more circulation via a closed loop at that point) as well as for my small fish only system?
<Should be no problem but I'd go with more live rock before you convert it to reef. It would take quite some time for the 10 pounds on Tonga to seed the 80 pounds of base rock.>
I keep searching and reading, and I am especially grateful (and impressed) that there is a common thread with all your responses, and no real contradiction of information.
<Why thank you.>
Thanks again for all you guys do!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Stan

Confusion; Sumps, Refugiums, Wet/Dry Trickle Filters, Flow Rates, and Wavemakers – 09/21/07
Dear Sirs,
<<Greetings Carl...and BTW, very capable ladies here as well>>
I love your site.
<<We thank you>>
I am still fairly new to this hobby and am pulling my hair out at the variety of information available.
<<Mmm, yes...much info with varying opinions...but do keep reading/absorbing>>
I have made some progress, but have recently decided to take a step forward and it just so happens that this next step seems exceedingly baffling.
<<Indeed, many hobbyists are intimidated by the plumbing/flow/circulation aspects of tank setup...let’s see if I can help with your understanding re>>
Currently I have a 46-gallon bowfront with a wet/dry which returns via an Aquaclear 70 powerhead. I have ordered a refugium and plan on turning the wet/dry into a sump (I will then use both the sump and the refugium), but I really can't figure out the plumbing for this.
<<Quite elementary really... The tank drains to the skimmer chamber of the sump...a T-fitting is installed on the drain line with a gate-valve on the output, and leading to the refugium...the refugium then “gravity drains” to the pump chamber of the sump. Plumbing the vessels in this manner lets you adjust/maintain a different flow rate in the refugium if you wish>>
In my setup, both the sump and 'fuge must be below the aquarium.
<<Very common...and is how my system is configured. Depending on the height of the individual vessels, you may find you will need to elevate the refugium slightly to allow it to gravity drain to the sump>>
Besides plumbing, I am also confused by flow rates.
<<Okay>>
I understand that the aquarium flow rate should be higher than that of the refugium, but how much exactly should I be aiming for...i.e. aquarium 8xhr? refugium 2xhr?
<<Is variable...often dictated by the animals/species kept. But as a general starting point this would be fine...could even add a couple more “volumes per hour” if you wish>>
Is my Aquaclear 70 adequate?
<<As a means for circulating water through the sump/refugium, maybe...depends on how much head-loss you experience with this pump...but is likely inadequate on its own re water movement within the display>>
Wavemakers: I ordered a Wave2k before I read your opinion on them. Should I return it?
<<Mmm, I’ve not used one of these devices...but I think it will overpower your 46g tank with both its size and performance. The Koralia or smaller Tunze Stream pumps would be a better choice here...in my opinion>>
I was planning on keeping it and augmenting in tank water flow with a Koralia #1, a Koralia nano for bottom of the tank water movement, and the return from the Aquaclear 70 of course.
<<Ah well...you don’t need (or want!) the Wave2K then>>
Thanks,
Carl
<<Here’s some links to more useful info (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/plumbingmarart.htm ) and (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/circmarart.htm ) and (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_2/cav2i5/wavemakers/Wavemakers.htm ). Do also follow the links in blue at the tops/in the margins of the pages. Regards, EricR>>

Filtration Sequencing... What Is The Best Filtration Sequence For A Reef Tank? – 09/19/07
- Biological, chemical, mechanical.
- Biological, mechanical, chemical.
- Chemical, mechanical, biological.
- Chemical, biological, mechanical.
- Mechanical, chemical, biological.
- Mechanical, biological, chemical.
<<Mmm, well...biological filtration is going on most “everywhere” in the system...but if setting up/arranging sequential filtration modules, it is my opinion the last sequence listed (mechanical, biological, chemical) is the best, for “any” marine system. Mechanical filtration first (changed or cleaned frequently) to trap and remove detritus/organic material to reduce the load on the bio-filter (I consider a protein skimmer such a device)...biological filtration next, to process “dissolved” organic compounds...and lastly, chemical filtration to augment these processes and help reduce toxic levels of those elements not handled by the previous two methods>>
Thank you for your help.
<<Happy to assist>>
Your website is very informative.
<<Hope you find it useful>>
Sincerely,
Tara Price
<<Regards, Eric Russell>>

Re: I am going crazy!!! (revised, I hope this is better!!)... Reef tank filtr. mainly  4/25/07 
Hello Mr. Fenner and crew,
<Jerry>
After all the late night reading and studying, I find the more I read and learn, the crazier I feel I am getting.
Here is my dilemma, I wish I can say I was one of the ones that studied first and purchased second, but I wasn't.  Put that together with impatience and you have a disaster waiting to happen.
I have a 75 gallon LR/LS reef tank, stocked with everything the LFS could sell me, (huge amounts of corals).
I have a small 17 gallon wet dry (18"x10"x16") and a 405 Fluval (contains bios and Purigen).  I have an Aqua C Urchin/Mag sitting in my sump and next to that is a Rio 1250 gph.  The Rio returns directly into the left side of my tank.
Since I was out of room in the sump, I put a Pondmaster 2400gph outside.
The Pondmaster is pumping water to a JBJ chiller through a wall into the next room (it took weeks to convince my wife!!).
This returns to the right side of my tank making a travel of 5' each way.
I had perfect water for months and now it seems the water changes are not keeping up with the production of nitrates.
<... You have read re Wet-Dries on WWM: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bioballfaqs.htm
and the linked files above?>
I was past 240 and did a 30 gallon water change, and now it's down to 100. I plan on doing another big change in a couple of days. (yet my corals/fish seem fine?)
I read from your site to remove bio-balls, I did that and replaced it with 4" of live sand and 16lb of broken live rock. I have also added 2 full bags of Chaetomorpha to the sump/refugium.
I am still going through the drip plate and PolyPads dropping down on top of the Chaetomorpha and LR/LS. Is this okay?
<Yes>
I started to feel that this refugium is not enough (always my problem), it is currently 8"x10". I have read that any refugium is better than no refugium.
<This is so>
Now I have so much water in the sump/refugium that if I had a power outage, I would have about 5 gallons or more on the floor and a divorce!!
<Trouble... need to reduce the amount of water in the tank/system...>
Recently I bought a new tank 24"x12"x16" for a separate refugium. I would go bigger but I have space constraints.
I have just recently read about this miracle mud. So now my brain takes me to another direction.
Tank water through the drip plate/poly pads into the miracle mud compartment.
Flow through to the skimmer side, Rio 1250 taking it through the wall 5' to the refugium.
Pondmaster 2400 will take it from the refugium to the chiller (too much flow into chiller?)
<No>
and back another 5' to then split to both sides of the tank.
Is this crazy or should I just keep it simple?
<Simple is better... Do read re how much flow to send through/over the Mud... not much. Best to restrict flow or bypass through this compartment>
Either keep things as they are and purchase a Sulphur Denitrator.
Pull the sump/refugium out; replace it with the new tank/refugium and put it under the display and call it a day??
<I would do the latter>
PLEASE HHEELLLPPP!! I don't want to hurt anything in my tank with my constant changes.
Ps I have a red Caulerpa in my tank and it has grown large dark purple almost black grapes on them is this normal?
<Possibly... better to remove this material if it starts to decompose. Bob Fenner>
Jerry

Here comes another addiction... going to reef! Mainly filtr.   - 4/7/07
Thank you guys so much for putting real and honest info on the web for all to use free.... You have no doubt saved countless marine lives... After making it a point to read info on your site ever day when I get home from work for a couple hours, you might get some mail from the woman that's not so pleasant.. j/k)
<Heeee! Say it isn't so!>
Anyway after all the info from you guys I am going to ditch  my wet/dry system and build a custom 55 Gallon sump.  Finally here comes  the question... I have a 180 gallon aquarium, 15 fish, some inverts and a button  polyp, all medium size, finally ready to get bit by the coral bug. 225 pds LR,  220 pds Fiji pink sand, 2 Mag drive 12 pumps, one going to a large lifeguard  chemical module with a little reef carbon, and one going to a large lifeguard mechanical module,
<Mmm... not such a fan of this sort of filtration for this application... Do plan on switching out the cartridge every week (have at least two... with the one being cleaned in-between...>
2 Coralife 220 skimmers, and an 18 W UV, a hang on  refuge (which will be replaced in the new sump.
<No room to squeeze in one of larger volume?>
Should I just remove the  modules and use the mag's for return only due to all the live rock and sand, as  well as a future large refuge in the sump with Chaeto?
<Yes... a better plan>
I figure I would  take them off and utilize the extra flow potential from the pumps..  Thanx  again!
<Ah yes... we're in agreement here. Bob Fenner>

If it's not broken don't fix it; too much filtration on a reef tank?  4/6/07
Hi guy's, love the site,
<Thank you.>
have been reading it for a  while and am wondering if I am using to much filtration...
<Hard to do...generally speaking. but let's see what we have.>
I have a 180 gallon  reef tank about 12 fish,
<Small? Big?>
5 inverts, and 1 star button polyp.  Here is what  I have on the tank..  225 pds LR, Overflow to a large sump with about 100  bioballs. A mag drive 12 running to a lifeguard {large) mechanical module. A  mag12 running to a lifeguard (large) chemical module, about 1/2 full of reef  carbon.  A Coralife 220 skimmer, ORP monitor going to a small ozone  generator, 200 pounds of Fiji pink sand, a CPR large refugium with Chaeto lit  24/7.  I feel as though I might be wasting a lot with having all this...Any  suggestions?
<I think the plastic bio-media is a unnecessary, but the refugium probably refutes most ill effects it creates. From the sounds of it you have a functional, stable captive environment. It it's not broken don't fix it. The carbon, unless you have a lot of encroaching cnidaria life is probably not necessary on a continual basis either...but won't hurt anything either.>
  My fish are great, water chem great, and water crystal  clear....Thanx in advance
<Welcome, Adam J.>

Upgrading tank help! Using WWM   3/1/07
I want to upgrade my current tank that is 75 gallons with shells for substrate, 2 Eheim 2026 canister filters, aqua c pro skimmer, live rock and heavy bio-load due to a lot of live stock. All tests are ok, but the nitrates.
<The canisters... need to be cleaned frequently... at least weekly>
The new tank is a 150 gallon with 4 1" bulkheads drilled in the back.
<I wish two were 1.5"... for drains...>
I have a sea life model 150 wet/dry filter that measures 28x16x9 1/2. The sump area is 16 1/2 and the bio-ball area is 11 1/2.  It also has a Rio 2500 return pump. About 1" of sand and then the pre-existing shells and live rock.
Here are my questions. Will this wet/dry be sufficient for this size tank?
<Mmm, can be, yes>
Since I don't have a ton of live rock, should I use the bio-balls or leave them out?
<I would leave out>
(I plan to increase the amount of live rock when the $$ increases ) Would I benefit from leaving out the bio-balls and adding LR to the sump area?
<Yes... posted>
  Would the use of the Eheim be any benefit?
<Not IMO>
Is the 1" of sand ok, or would more be beneficial?
<Posted>
I have also read your skimmer should be placed in the rawest water. Should the skimmer be placed in the bio area? is the sump area ok?
<Ditto>
Should I add a bag of Chemi-pure before the sump area? Could you tell me which is the better-Chemi-pure or black diamond activated carbon?
<The former>
Would this set-up be ok to get up and running then modify with time?
Thanks for your valuable time and responses.
dawn
<These questions are all answered over and over, with the rationale presented... on WWM. Please learn to/use the search tool, indices. Bob Fenner>

Choices in Reef Filtration  2/27/07
Hi
<<Hello.>>
I'm new and was wondering what to buy to set up a 125gal or 150gal reef tank. I was looking at some sites and these two sites interested me .What do you think. Open at all suggestions and help. Here are the sites A href="http://www.aqua-medic.com/products/products.php?category=Filter%20Systems&product=Marin%201000"> http://www.aqua-medic.com/products/products.php?category=Filter%20Systems&product=Marin%201000Check in the products list here is more and the other one is: </FONT><A href="http://www.ecosystemaquarium.com/html/marineProducts.html"><FONT face=Arial size=2>http://www.ecosystemaquarium.com/html/marineProducts.html></STRONG></A>Thank you your help is appreciated , Peppi
<<If I had to choose between one and the other it would definitely be the latter, the eco-system, the first one with all the plastic bio-media doesn't tickle my fancy. **AJ.>>

Reef Filtration, Options Galore - 03/17/2006
Great website!
<Thanks Jim. Glad you like it.>
I want to set up a new 65 gallon reef tank. My LFS suggests that all I need for filtration is an Aquafuge Pro with built-in CPR skimmer for filtration. In searching the internet I found a CPR Tech page FAQ that indicated that the Aquafuge PRO was not intended to be the sole filtration system only a supplement. \
<I agree. Better to have a good skimmer as well that can handle the tank volume. Look into the AquaC line.>
I am getting ready to make my purchases and want to do everything right the FIRST time.
<Well that just takes all the "adventure" out of it;)>
Is the Aquafuge set up the way to go?
<A good addition.>
Do I need more filtration and if so what?
<Many options for you but a dedicated skimmer, the fuge (with additional skimming), and a good bit of LR/LS is all you really need. Here's a good link to start on http://www.wetwebmedia.com/reeffilt.htm .>
Thanks in advance!
Jim McDonald
<You're welcome. - Josh>

Re: Reef Filtration, Options Galore - 03/17/2006
One follow up...if the refugium is large enough to support a 100 gallon tank would I still need the second skimmer?
<I would.>
I only ask because your response mentioned handling of tank volume.
<I like to keep things "function specific". I would plan on the fuge doing the fuge's job (added benefit of skimmer a bonus), and have a skimmer for the sole purpose of skimming. Likely much more efficient than a built in skimmer.>
Thanks again.
Jim McDonald
<Welcome. - Josh>

Reef Set-Up/Filtration   12/28/05
Happy holidays!
<Same to you Ed.>
OK, so the wife and I went into the LFS and were astounded by the coral.
<Amazing isn’t it?>
We thought about a nanocube and did some research and decided that  it was not the way to go.  
<Yes they are nice “novelty” items but I find it hard to take them seriously when they recommend it for marine use without installing a protein skimmer. It is definitely not for beginners.>
There are only 3 LFS stores in the city selling  salt water/marine.  In two the tanks are filthy and in the third we get  different advice depending on who we ask.
<Differing advice in the marine aquarium, no couldn’t be….Seriously though this is why WWM and other information exists so you can research for yourself and come to your own logical conclusion.>
We have now spent several hundred dollars on reference books and maybe its too much information but we're confused.
<Can never have too much.>
We are looking at a 55 g Tenecor marine ready or a 70 g Oceanic reef ready Tech.
<Both are good sizes and reputable companies.>
We would like to keep the tank to 36 inches. We plan to use about  100 lb. of LR and do a 3 inch live sand bed.  We plan to do the closed  loop manifold system you recommend.
<Good.>
We'd like to add a sump to hide the heaters, chiller (we are planning MH), and skimmer and to increase the amount of water.  
<Very good.>
Both Tenecor and Oceanic have recommended sumps including wet/dry filtration.
We have been reading forums  in which writers stated that with LR/LS filtration additional filtration may  
actually be detrimental. What is your opinion?
<Bio-media after a period of time tend to accumulate nutrients and it’s just not as efficient as a breeding grounds for nitrifying bacteria, in either words except in certain applications…they are becoming less favorable.  The surface area on live rock is more than ample at providing a breeding grounds for nitrifying bacteria and the bio-media is not necessary.  Bio-media is great at breaking down ammonia and nitrite but not so great with nitrite. Also macro-algae/microfauna refugiums are of much more benefit to the reef tank. I would look into these.>
One of the manufacturers recommends an in sump pump.  It is my  understanding
that we would be better off if the pump were outside the sump.  What is your opinion?
<I prefer “dry” pumps as opposed to wet pumps, they tend not to transfer as much heat to the water and give you more room in your sump for the equipment and refugia mentioned above.>
Thanks,
Ed
<Quite welcome, Adam J.>

Major Remodeling (Tank Reconfiguration)  11/16/05
Hey guys great site!
<Thanks for the kind words! Scott F. here today!>
I know you are busy so I will get right to it. I have been running an undergravel system (powered by two power heads) in my 75 g marine tank for years. I also run two (for lack of knowing what to call them) "hang on" filters on the back of the tank that cycle the water through carbon filtration. All has been well until I began to finally get into corals.
<Ahh...the coral bug has bitten...>
I currently have a colony of Xenia, a Pink Bubble Coral, Frogspawn, a couple of Ricordea, and some Green Star Polyps. I also have live rock in my tank as well as some Clownfish, Tangs, a Koran Angel, Large Green Chromis, Cleaner Shrimp, Hermits, and snails etc. . 
My question is this: can I phase out the undergravel system and update to a more "reef friendly" set up. I hate the crushed coral bottom and would love to go to live sand as well as do whatever necessary to give my corals the ideal conditions to grow and spread. Is it possible?
<Well, I would be inclined not to remove the UG filter plate after you stop using it, unless you do plan on removing the substrate as well (Sounds like you do want to switch substrate, however). I am in favor of setups utilizing sumps for water processing. If it were me, I'd view this as a complete "re-start" of the system, if your intent is to switch over substrate and filtration methodology. The tank will have to go through a new cycling process, just as if it were brand new (which it essentially will be!). BTW, the Koran will get pretty large, and cannot be considered a "coral safe" fish for an indefinite period of time.>
What do I replace it with? How fast should I make the transition?
<Sump-based systems are the way to go, IMO. You'd be wise to set up temporary quarters for your animals as you "remodel" the system. Proceed slowly, and study these types of systems before you make the move. Don't skimp on the equipment, particularly lighting and protein skimming. These items will make a huge difference for you down the line. Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

It's All On The Site - 11/11/2005
I'm sorry if I'm repeating a question,
<Many, actually.>
but I've looked on the site and I'm still a little confused. 
<Much that you find confusing now can be alleviated with time, patience, and research. No worries.>
I'm new at the whole saltwater reef tank thing. I have a freshwater 90 gallon right now that I want to convert to a reef tank soon. But I'm not sure what kind of filtration to use.... 
<Much, much to learn, here....>
I've heard refugium is the best way to go but.... I'm not really sure how that works... do I need a wet dry to run a refugium?? 
<No, not necessarily.... start reading.>
<<Not at all.  Do what the nice lady says, please.  MH>>
Also.. I know I'll need a protein skimmer but.... what exactly does a protein skimmer do? What is it? 
<Removes dissolved organics from the water; again, read.... http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm . Much on skimmers here, also on other filtration methods including refugiums.>
<<Foam fractionation is actually a rather old form of "chemical" filtration, and has many, many uses, including in some food production and refinement of certain products.  Google "foam fractionation".  MH>>
Also, if I go with the refugium setup, what all do I need to buy to get it up and running?
<Too many possibilities, too much information to impart in a mere email. Start with that link, and get crackin'.... you'll need to form your own opinions on these very subjective questions.>
Thank you for your time. -Kurt
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>

Are Refugiums and Sumps Mandatory? 11/3/05
Greetings,
<Hi Brad!>
Brad B. here. I've been reading a lot on your web site to try an educate myself, answer questions and get ideas. I'm trying to be a good steward and have a basic question. First, here's my scoop: 46 g bow front marine aquarium / 60 lbs of live reef sand / mix of rock and live rock - a good coverage of LR but not all that much weight as I chose specimens with good color and surface area but light (save $$) / two Emperor 280s (fiber media plus activated carbon cartridges) / AquaC Remora skimmer with MaxiJet 1200 / two AquaClear 50s and two AquaClear 30s for circulation / Coralife 36" with a 96W Actinic, 96W 10,000K white, and two lunar LEDs on a timer - Actinic = 12 hrs and White 10,000K 8 hrs... okay... 
Can I expect good success (such as getting/keeping nitrates near zero) with a low fish load - inverts - corals given the above stated setup without adding a sump or refugium?
<Brad of course it is possible to get away without a refugium or a sump. Though I will say a refugium is in my opinion a great as