best filter setup for my setup and tank changeover advice
Marine Filtration and Tank Changeover 11/17/08
Hi to all,
Thanks to you all for your time and commitment to our hobby.
<Thank you for noticing the commitment!>
I have searched your site for info on my topic but was looking for an opinion on my exact setup.
I currently have a 46 bow reef that is filtered by: 1 Aquaclear 110, 1 Remora skimmer, aprox 2/3 filled with live rock and 1 power head. This setup and run well (I think) with no issues for 3 years.
Now I am changing out to a 72 bow non-RR. I am not sure on the best filtration for this setup. I want to stay away from the standard type of "open" overflow and wet/dry filter. Not sure why but, mostly because of noise and sump size. Although, I went with the non reef ready because I travel a bit for work and cannot always top off as frequently as a RR wet/dry small sump needs. (wife can feed fish ok but not up to topping off for me).
<If you have the room for a sump, do reconsider. Auto top off units out nowadays are great, and very beneficial to tanks with or without sumps through the consistent SPG they keep.>
I am thinking about a canister filter (please recommend best type/brand/model for my tank size if you can)
<Eheim, first choice.>
and another hang on mechanical filter, a tank 2/3 full of live rock and 2 power head for flow ....??
What do you think about this. Is there a better way to filter my setup?
<Personally I would forgo all of the traditional filtration. Just rely on LR and the Remora...really.>
What is ideal?
<The above with a sump and refugium.>
And last, what is your thoughts on a 2 day cutover from the 46 bow to the 72 reef?
Steps:
SAT AM
-move half water and all corals and fish to Rubbermaid bin.
-move light, Aquaclear 110, and heater to the coral bin for 24 hour stay.
-move base rock to 2nd Rubbermaid bin.
-remove remaining water sand and breakdown tank.
-set new 72 bow and fill half way with new saltwater.
-install sand and base rock.
-fill all but 2" and get filter and heater working(no powerheads yet)
SUN AM or PM as needed for water quality
-hopefully most of the sand has settled and water is just cloudy
-replace corals and fish
Will this work OK?
<It will, just keep the bins aerated and heated. This really can be done
in one day, a few hours at most.>
Should my fish and corals survive?(2 damsels, 1 Oscels. clown, 1 yellow watch men, mostly mushrooms, zoos, softies and LPS-no SPS-PC lights)
<Yes.>
Any additional advise on the change over?
<Sounds like you have it. Just do it fast and keep your water the livestock is in as consistent as you can.>
Thanks again for your time and all you guys and gals do for the hobby.
<Thank you again, Scott V.>

Reef Plumbing/Filtration - 04/09/06
Hello,
<<Howdy>>
I have just switched from a 55 gallon tank to a 90 gallon tank with a 30 gallon sump.
<<Cool!>>
I have four 1-inch bulkheads in my tank and a Mag-Drive 9.5 in my sump.  The guy where I purchased this tank from (Steve, from Elmer's Aquarium in Monroeville, PA) said this would circulate 1000 GPH.
<<Would be close, yes...assuming no backpressure for the pump to work against.  In reality your flow will be somewhat lessened, determined in large part by your plumbing configuration.>>
One of my questions is that I only have one bulkhead open because that is all the pump can handle.
<<Likely your plumbing/head height (all creates backpressure) are severely restricting output.>>
So this would be 250 gallons GPH, correct?
<<Mmm, not necessarily...but if the single 1" return is handling the flow without excessive noise, surge, etc., then you are likely pumping 350 gph or less.>>
Is that enough circulation that I can just leave it alone?
<<Through the sump?...yes...for the tank as a whole?...no.  Do supplement flow in the tank with other methods...perhaps a closed-loop utilizing one or more of the other bulkheads.>>
Only thing I noticed wrong was one of my elbows coming out of the sump is dripping once about every 1 to 2 minutes.  And it is dripping back into the sump tank so I am not really worried about it.
<<Ah, okay.>>
The micro bubbles are very minimal.  What am I doing wrong?
<<I don't know that you are (doing anything wrong)...I would need more information about your plumbing configuration to say.>>
My next question is do I need to run a canister filter for this setup?
<<Likely the canister filter isn't 'necessary,' but one could be beneficial for using chemical media (carbon/Poly-Filter)...if 'maintained/serviced' properly.>>
I currently have about 50 lbs. of live rock, some corals, 2 yellow tailed damsels, 1 yellow tang, 1 goby, 2 clown fish, 1 royal Gramma, 1 flame angel, 1 coral beauty, 1 cleaner shrimp along with a cleanup crew.  I have read on this site that canister filters are often misused with tanks running a sump.
<<And also those without...is a maintenance (or neglect of) issue.>>
Would a canister filter help me or hurt me?
<<If you clean/rinse all on a weekly/bi-weekly basis, and change out media as it becomes exhausted, then it will help you.  Regards, EricR>>

Reef Plumbing/Filtration II - 04/10/06
Hello again,
<<Hello>>
Thanks for the speedy reply.
<<You're welcome>>
I still have a few questions about your answers.
<<Ok>>
You talk about back pressure.  It is about 4 feet from my pump to the top of my tank.
<<According to the manufacturer that alone would reduce the output to about 800 gph.  Then you have to consider elbows, tees, friction from the pipe itself, etc., etc..>>
My plumbing comes out of the pump to the top of the sump tank and goes diagonally to the middle of my stand where it then T's off and one goes up one side of the tank and the other side of the T goes up the other side of the tank.  So I have 2 3/4-inch pipes going into my tank from the T.
<<And all adds to head pressure (back pressure to the pump).>>
And I am using 1" flex-pipe coming out of my bulkheads.  You also talk about noise.  What kind of noise?
<<Plumbing/water noise...the kind of noise you get from trying to drain too much water through too small of  a throughput (your drains).  This typically will manifest itself as excessive gurgling/surging noises (some folks describe it as akin to a toilet flushing) and excessive turbulence/bubbles in your sump.>>
The pump seems to be running fine.
<<And it probably is.>>
Only noise I hear is when I shut the pump off the pipes rattle for about 10 seconds and stop.
<<!?>>
I also have a check-valve and shutoff-valve coming out of the pump.
<<Aha!  The check-valve is your problem.  Is best to not use these as they will restrict flow greatly on most non pressure-rated pumps...and the valve will likely fail on you at some point as well.  You should remove the check-valve and position all inlets/outlets such that your sump will hold the transient water volume in the event of a power outage.>>
So my last question would be do I need a bigger pump and if so how big do I need to handle this?
<<If you truly want 1000 gph then yes, you need a bigger pump (how big depends on whether or not you remove the valve).  But if you heed my advice to remove the check-valve, do that first and then see how your existing pump performs.  Regards, EricR>>

Reef Plumbing/Filtration III - 04/10/06
Once more, Hello!
<<Back at ya!>>
I feel like an idiot asking all these questions but in regards to your latest remarks about the gargling.
<<No worries mate...am happy to elucidate>>
Yes, I do get that when the water level gets low, is there a way to stop that?
<<Low where?...the sump?  Perhaps you need to extend your drain pipes, or add 45 or 90 degree ells.  Do have a look here for more info on noise abatement:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pbnoisefaqs.htm >>
Next, how many gallons an hour through the sump is suitable for a 90 gallon aquarium?
<<It's not so much a matter of what's a suitable flow rate for the tank, but more what's a suitable flow rate for the plumbing/throughputs, as well as consideration for the size of the sump, and maybe most important of all...the location of the sump (in other words, do you want to be able to talk/hear the television over the sounds of the aquarium?).  I don't think you've mentioned the size of your sump in our previous exchanges, but with four 1" bulkheads for drains you should be able to easily handle the output from the Mag9.5 (sans check-valve) without undue noise/difficulty.  Open up all the drains and see what happens/how things perform.  If you don't wish to use them all, plug one at a time until you reach that point where the water starts to overcome the drains.>>
Hopefully this will be the last time I bother you and again, you have been a great help with your answers.
<<Not a bother my friend.  We have a plethora of information about this subject (and so many others!) on our site...do some keyword searches re and you'll likely find what you seek and more.  But if you don't, please feel free to ask a question.  Regards, EricR>>

Confusion; Sumps, Refugiums, Wet/Dry Trickle Filters, Flow Rates, and Wavemakers – 09/21/07
Dear Sirs,
<<Greetings Carl...and BTW, very capable ladies here as well>>
I love your site.
<<We thank you>>
I am still fairly new to this hobby and am pulling my hair out at the variety of information available.
<<Mmm, yes...much info with varying opinions...but do keep reading/absorbing>>
I have made some progress, but have recently decided to take a step forward and it just so happens that this next step seems exceedingly baffling.
<<Indeed, many hobbyists are intimidated by the plumbing/flow/circulation aspects of tank setup...let’s see if I can help with your understanding re>>
Currently I have a 46-gallon bowfront with a wet/dry which returns via an Aquaclear 70 powerhead. I have ordered a refugium and plan on turning the wet/dry into a sump (I will then use both the sump and the refugium), but I really can't figure out the plumbing for this.
<<Quite elementary really... The tank drains to the skimmer chamber of the sump...a T-fitting is installed on the drain line with a gate-valve on the output, and leading to the refugium...the refugium then “gravity drains” to the pump chamber of the sump. Plumbing the vessels in this manner lets you adjust/maintain a different flow rate in the refugium if you wish>>
In my setup, both the sump and 'fuge must be below the aquarium.
<<Very common...and is how my system is configured. Depending on the height of the individual vessels, you may find you will need to elevate the refugium slightly to allow it to gravity drain to the sump>>
Besides plumbing, I am also confused by flow rates.
<<Okay>>
I understand that the aquarium flow rate should be higher than that of the refugium, but how much exactly should I be aiming for...i.e. aquarium 8xhr? refugium 2xhr?
<<Is variable...often dictated by the animals/species kept. But as a general starting point this would be fine...could even add a couple more “volumes per hour” if you wish>>
Is my Aquaclear 70 adequate?
<<As a means for circulating water through the sump/refugium, maybe...depends on how much head-loss you experience with this pump...but is likely inadequate on its own re water movement within the display>>
Wavemakers: I ordered a Wave2k before I read your opinion on them. Should I return it?
<<Mmm, I’ve not used one of these devices...but I think it will overpower your 46g tank with both its size and performance. The Koralia or smaller Tunze Stream pumps would be a better choice here...in my opinion>>
I was planning on keeping it and augmenting in tank water flow with a Koralia #1, a Koralia nano for bottom of the tank water movement, and the return from the Aquaclear 70 of course.
<<Ah well...you don’t need (or want!) the Wave2K then>>
Thanks,
Carl
<<Here’s some links to more useful info (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/plumbingmarart.htm ) and (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/circmarart.htm ) and (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_2/cav2i5/wavemakers/Wavemakers.htm ). Do also follow the links in blue at the tops/in the margins of the pages. Regards, EricR>>

Filtration Sequencing... What Is The Best Filtration Sequence For A Reef Tank? – 09/19/07
- Biological, chemical, mechanical.
- Biological, mechanical, chemical.
- Chemical, mechanical, biological.
- Chemical, biological, mechanical.
- Mechanical, chemical, biological.
- Mechanical, biological, chemical.
<<Mmm, well...biological filtration is going on most “everywhere” in the system...but if setting up/arranging sequential filtration modules, it is my opinion the last sequence listed (mechanical, biological, chemical) is the best, for “any” marine system. Mechanical filtration first (changed or cleaned frequently) to trap and remove detritus/organic material to reduce the load on the bio-filter (I consider a protein skimmer such a device)...biological filtration next, to process “dissolved” organic compounds...and lastly, chemical filtration to augment these processes and help reduce toxic levels of those elements not handled by the previous two methods>>
Thank you for your help.
<<Happy to assist>>
Your website is very informative.
<<Hope you find it useful>>
Sincerely,
Tara Price
<<Regards, Eric Russell>>

Re: I am going crazy!!! (revised, I hope this is better!!)... Reef tank filtr. mainly  4/25/07 
Hello Mr. Fenner and crew,
<Jerry>
After all the late night reading and studying, I find the more I read and learn, the crazier I feel I am getting.
Here is my dilemma, I wish I can say I was one of the ones that studied first and purchased second, but I wasn't.  Put that together with impatience and you have a disaster waiting to happen.
I have a 75 gallon LR/LS reef tank, stocked with everything the LFS could sell me, (huge amounts of corals).
I have a small 17 gallon wet dry (18"x10"x16") and a 405 Fluval (contains bios and Purigen).  I have an Aqua C Urchin/Mag sitting in my sump and next to that is a Rio 1250 gph.  The Rio returns directly into the left side of my tank.
Since I was out of room in the sump, I put a Pondmaster 2400gph outside.
The Pondmaster is pumping water to a JBJ chiller through a wall into the next room (it took weeks to convince my wife!!).
This returns to the right side of my tank making a travel of 5' each way.
I had perfect water for months and now it seems the water changes are not keeping up with the production of nitrates.
<... You have read re Wet-Dries on WWM: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bioballfaqs.htm
and the linked files above?>
I was past 240 and did a 30 gallon water change, and now it's down to 100. I plan on doing another big change in a couple of days. (yet my corals/fish seem fine?)
I read from your site to remove bio-balls, I did that and replaced it with 4" of live sand and 16lb of broken live rock. I have also added 2 full bags of Chaetomorpha to the sump/refugium.
I am still going through the drip plate and PolyPads dropping down on top of the Chaetomorpha and LR/LS. Is this okay?
<Yes>
I started to feel that this refugium is not enough (always my problem), it is currently 8"x10". I have read that any refugium is better than no refugium.
<This is so>
Now I have so much water in the sump/refugium that if I had a power outage, I would have about 5 gallons or more on the floor and a divorce!!
<Trouble... need to reduce the amount of water in the tank/system...>
Recently I bought a new tank 24"x12"x16" for a separate refugium. I would go bigger but I have space constraints.
I have just recently read about this miracle mud. So now my brain takes me to another direction.
Tank water through the drip plate/poly pads into the miracle mud compartment.
Flow through to the skimmer side, Rio 1250 taking it through the wall 5' to the refugium.
Pondmaster 2400 will take it from the refugium to the chiller (too much flow into chiller?)
<No>
and back another 5' to then split to both sides of the tank.
Is this crazy or should I just keep it simple?
<Simple is better... Do read re how much flow to send through/over the Mud... not much. Best to restrict flow or bypass through this compartment>
Either keep things as they are and purchase a Sulphur Denitrator.
Pull the sump/refugium out; replace it with the new tank/refugium and put it under the display and call it a day??
<I would do the latter>
PLEASE HHEELLLPPP!! I don't want to hurt anything in my tank with my constant changes.
Ps I have a red Caulerpa in my tank and it has grown large dark purple almost black grapes on them is this normal?
<Possibly... better to remove this material if it starts to decompose. Bob Fenner>
Jerry