Marine Set-Up/Reef System   11/28/06
Hi all,
<Hello Manny>
I have had my 55g FOWLR with approximately 70lbs of Live Rock and a 20g refugium with a DSB up and running for over 3 months now and the bug has bitten. I have already upgraded my lighting to an 8x54W T5 system with half actinic and half 10K bulbs.  I want to get various Ricordea and zoanthids as well as a rose BTA to start my mini reef.
<Not a good idea mixing anemones with corals.  Anemones have a tendency
to relocate, and in the process will be zapping corals along the way.>
I have a SeaClone 100 that has actually been collecting rather well *I think* about 3/4 Cup every 2-3 days.
Also 0ppm Nitrates
My first question is since the Rose BTA vs. zoanthids/Ricordea have 'seemingly' very different lighting requirements is there any site or reference that has a general thriving lumen rate for each type of coral.
<Nothing specific that I'm aware of.  Generally speaking, intense lighting for stony corals, moderate for most LPS, BTA's, and Zo's.  You can start here along
with linked files above.  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/index.htm>
I recently bought a lux meter and would try to place them accordingly.  Or should I just try and put the BTA higher and the Ricordea/zoanthids lower in the tank?
<If you insist on the BTA, with your lighting, it could be placed anywhere in the tank.>
Also, I have a full system as far as fish go and probably should upgrade my protein skimmer. 1 small Sailfin Tang, 2 black percs, 1 Royal Gramma, 1 Six Line wrasse, 1 pygmy angel, 1 Flame Angel (The angels get along well) and various inverts (crabs, snails, & 3 cleaner shrimp).
<Your tank has too high of a fish load, the sailfin will grow quite fast and will be needing a larger tank.>   I was looking into the Aqua C Series since so much great feedback is read here on WetWebM and will probably upgrade my tank size down the road. Hence, I would like to buy an oversized skimmer i.e. an EV-240 or EV-180.
<They are good skimmers.  Might want to check out the Tunze 9005 also.>
Is there any risk in over skimming necessary elements for corals etc.?  Problems with too much gas exchange?
<No, regular water changes with a reef enhanced salt should replace lost elements along with your normal reef additives.>
Also I read here on WetWebM that placing the filter after any filtration is bad.  I have a wet dry with bio balls and then the water flows to my skimmer in the sump.  Is this bad?
<No, but I would gradually remove the bio balls.  Really isn't necessary to use with live rock.>
Would it be better to do some plumbing to change this or just leave the sump as is?
<Think you are fine here.  James (Salty Dog)>
Manny V

Berlin Style system    11/28/06
Hi,
<Cheers to you in the UK, Mich here.>
  I have a 400 l, not sure what it is in us <approximately 100> gallons am from the UK, marine tank it has about,50-60 kg of live rock in it. I currently have a custom made sump (around 100 l) <25 gallon> consisting of a bio balls (filter media for biological filtration) and a protein skimmer, I am interested in removing the bio balls and going to a Berlin style system. My tank has holes drilled in the back, I would have preferred the holes in the bottom but it was a second hand tank. And as such the flow rate is not as good as I think it could be, <Why not drill more holes?  It isn't too difficult, just go slowly.  Could also check for local reef clubs who may offer this service if you are uncomfortable doing it yourself...it can be a bit unnerving.>  I have a 2500 l <660 gallons> an hour pump but I have to divert half the water back into the sump otherwise it floods the main tank.    
  I was planning on getting a new sump (around 200 l)<50 gallon> and filling it with live rock. making a chamber on the end for the heater pump and protein skimmer. Is this a good idea? <You could, but you don't really have to.  You could do the same setup in your current sump, with less live rock.> And how much rock would I need? <Whatever you can fit comfortable with all the other equipment.>  I can't seem to find the answer any where.    
  Perhaps if you could suggest something else more appropriate? I was considering a miracle mud sump or deep sand bed.  <Have you considered a remote deep sand bed for nitrate reduction?  It may be an easier alternative.  Anthony Calfo has written quite a bit on this subject.  Do a search for RDSB and Calfo.  You should be able to make what you have work.>  
      Thanks Danny  <You're welcome.>

Re: Berlin Style system    11/28/06
Thanks for the quick reply, <You are quite welcome, glad I could be of help...hopefully, at least.> I'm a bit apprehensive of drilling more holes as the tank has been setup for nearly a year now, <I understand, can be unnerving and may not be worth it.> and my corals are quite well grown i.e. all over the rocks, some onto the sides of the tank even. Would disturbing all this be worth it?  <Only you can answer that question.>    
  The tank has not got any immediate problems, I have 5 1000 l per hour powerheads moving the water in the tank, its just the flow rate through the filter, I feel the water going through the filter is not being filtered as well as it could be. And am worried as the corals get bigger the water quality may become an issue. <Much of the filtering is done within the tank by the live rock, if your corals are happy, I would not be too concerned.  
<On a separate note, when writing into the website, if you could be so kind as to run your message through a spell checker and please don't forget to capitalize your "I's.  Thank you much.  
Mich>

Reef Upgrade/Refugium Setup - 10/31/06
Hello.
<<Good Morning>>
I wanted to say thank you for all your help in the past.
<<A collective effort>>
Your website is a great source of information and has saved me from making stupid mistakes many times.
<<Glad you have found it useful>>
I'm writing because I will soon be upgrading my 55-gallon reef system to a 135 with a 55-gallon sump/refugium and have a few questions as to what the best way of doing this would be.
<<Okay>>
First let me run my plan by you really quickly and see what you think.  I will be setting up the new system in a new house.  I plan on doing all of the plumbing and filling it with freshwater straight from the tap.  I will then run all the filters/pumps to make sure nothing leaks and a day or so later after everything checks out (hopefully) I will add the salt and substrate (0.5inch aragonite to the display tank).
<<Sounds fine>>
I will then order approximately 100lbs of cured Fiji live rock and place it in the tank.  After a good 6-8 weeks when the ammonia/nitrate/nitrite levels have stabilized and a healthy colony of bacteria has started growing, I plan on moving all the inhabitants of my 55-gallon tank in (purple tang, 2 brittle stars, hermits, snails, various soft and LPS corals, and approximately 80 pounds of live rock).  I was hoping I could do all of this at one time, but wasn't sure if it would overload the system with too many nutrient sources at one time.  Any idea?
<<Hmm...with what you list, this would probably be fine.  You might consider leaving the old 55 up/operational (with some rock present) for the first 24hrs while monitoring ammonia/nitrite in the new system...to be safe>>
I was also hoping to use the 3-inches of aragonite I have in the old 55-gallon system for a DSB (6 inches) in the 55-gallon sump/refugium on the new system.
<<I don't see why not>>
I will have to mix it with new aragonite to achieve the correct depth.  What would be the best way of doing this?
<<I would place the new sand first, and put the "old" sand on top.  Do be aware, you will experience some die-off of the biota in the old sand bed when you move it>>
Should I simply move the old aragonite from one system to the other and just throw some new aragonite on top?
<<Other way 'round>>
Should I mix the two first before placing it in?
<<I wouldn't>>
I was considering removing all of the old aragonite and rinsing it with tap water really well because I have seen some pockets of accumulated black organics in it before when I removed some of the live rock.
<<You could...but aside from the hassle/mess, you will remove all the beneficial organisms that would otherwise seed/jump-start the refugium>>
This would basically start the bacteria colony over of course, would this be ok?
<<Up to you...but I wouldn't do it>>
I was also wondering if a green brittle star in the 55-gallon refugium would significantly affect the copepod population.
<<Indirectly possibly...by competing for food stuffs/detrital matter.  May also pose a threat to amphipods, other refugium fauna>>
One of the reasons I plan on setting up the DSB refugium is so that it will act as a source of food for my corals and mandarin goby.  I have a green brittle star that recently decided to turn a few of my shrimp into lunch.
<<Known to capture/eat fish as well>>
I was planning on keeping it and simply separating it from my future shrimp and livestock by placing it in the refugium where it would help stir the sand bed.  Would this be a good decision or should I find a new home for it all together?
<<I prefer to keep large predators out of a refugium...defeats the purpose of the "refuge" in my opinion>>
Thank you for your thoughts.
Jon
<<Happy to share.  Eric Russell>>

Refugium Design/System Design/Maintenance - 10/05/06
Greetings from New Jersey,
<<Hello from South Carolina>>
I am in the process of re-setting up a 110X that will be used as a reef tank with approx. 1" Southdown sand (your input on any aspect of this e-mail as you see fit would be appreciated).
<<No worries mate, is what we/I do>>
I know the extra-high tank is not ideal for this but it was chosen largely for aesthetic reasons do to the ceiling height of the room.
<<I see>>
The system has been apart for around two years but I did run it
successfully for around five years, constantly evolving the system as time went on.
<<Mmm, yes...I tend to "fiddle" with my system too <grin> >>
I custom built the hood and have two 400w Ushio 10K  bulbs and two 48" URI VHO 03 actinics approx 12" off of the water line.
<<You do realize the actinics will be/are mainly aesthetic at this height...and this is quite "fine" as the 10K Ushio lamps contain more than enough light in the "blue" spectrum for the coral's needs>>
I ran the tank for years with 250w 10k Blueline MH bulbs which  were much bluer in color, more pleasing to the eye but I read the Ushios were better.
<<A better bulb in my opinion as well>>
I bought the 400w at the tail end of my last setup so I can't say I had a lot of experience with them.
<<Likely more than you need even with this tank...but should be fine>>
I bought them because although I had started with soft corals and LPS I was starting to get more into the SPS and clams down in the sand, and at that time was fearing not having enough light penetrating the deeper water.
<<Yes, a not uncommon "fear" among hobbyists...though often unfounded in my opinion>>
Do you think this lighting is appropriate for SPS and clams?
<<Should be fine, but I think you could have gotten by with the 250s (utilizing Ushio 10K bulbs)>>
Would it be too much for softies or LPS?
<<Possibly...but you might be able to place these where they receive appropriate lighting (after researching their individual needs of course)>>
I have read on WWM that it appears people were over lighting there tanks and nothing more than a 250w MH should ever be used but I'm not sure if this took into account for extra high tanks.
<<But for few exceptions (VERY LARGE systems, extra-high fixture placements, deep anemone systems) I am of the opinion that 250w metal halide bulbs provide enough intensity/are completely adequate...especially where double-ended type bulbs are used due to their seemingly higher watt-for-watt output/PAR over single-ended bulbs>>
I also have a calcium reactor built by a small local company called MTC controlled by a Milwaukee pH controller which seemed to work great.
<<Indeed...MTC seems to enjoy a fairly good reputation among hobbyists...The Milwaukee controller appears to have mixed reviews, but I have used their ORP controller with no complaints>>
But once again the more I read the more it seemed everyone was using Kalkwasser for top off (which I did not at the time, just  RO/DI going thru a cylinder of CaribSea Florida crushed coral for buffering before entering the sump), so I built a Nilsson reactor and it seemed in no time most of my plumbing was encrusted with a white-brown I assume calcium.
<<Mmm, possibly...  I too use a DIY Kalkwasser reactor in conjunction with a calcium reactor (several years now) and have not experienced "excessive" calcium build-up.  But then my system is larger than "average" (500g en toto) and heavily stocked with SPS...perhaps your system will get by/do better with the calcium reactor alone>>
My DKH  was always between 10&12 (Salifert) but I could never find a test kit that seemed to measure calcium right.
<<Give Seachem a try>>
I had 2 or 3 different ones that never read even close to each other.
<<Not unusual...obtain a quality brand (Hach, Salifert, Merck, Seachem) and keep fresh reagents and you'll do fine>>
Maybe you could suggest an accurate one?
<<Ah yes!  ...think I just did>>
Is Kalkwasser a must or would the calcium reactor be enough on its own?
<<Will depend much on your stocking density, but the calcium reactor will likely be enough if tuned/used with quality media>>
Now for my plumbing dilemma.  I am installing two 100 gal. stock tanks in the basement just below the tank.
<<Cool!   Love the extra volume!>>
One will be a refugium, it has about 6"-7" Southdown sand in it for NNR I would like to stay away from Caulerpa and keep Chaetomorpha and or Gracilaria to help with nutrient reduction and possibly food for Tangs?
<<I highly recommend you choose one or the other over keeping two types of alga in the refugium.  If kept together, the alga will fight/compete for space...releasing toxins/using energy that would otherwise go towards assimilation of organic elements.  If you want "tang food" go with Gracilaria...if you want "ease of use and an outstanding matrix for plankton/epiphytic matter production" go with Chaetomorpha>>
Naturally I want to encourage all of the life I can to help
naturally feed the main display e.g.. pods, plankton, so I assume I may want a few pieces of live rock in there, a Brittle star and some snails?
<<Mmm, the snails are fine/will find their way in anyway, but a brittle star will consume much of the detritus needed/utilized by the more "desirable" refugium biota...I would leave it out>>
I will let the tank fill almost completely with sea water to increase total system water.  The refugium will overflow to the other stock tank which will serve as the sump running around half full to allow room for everything to drain down comfortably in a power failure.
<<Excellent>>
I am only going to be pushing around 750 GPH thru the main display overflow with Durso standpipe (an amazing device, it
quieted my overflow down to almost nothing from insane gurgling due to high flow) and down to the  basement.  Additional flow in the display tank will be achieved through two closed-loop systems, each circling 1/2 the tank top (I got the
design from your web site. great idea no power heads!!!) each loop has four flexible ball and socket return nozzles.
<<Sounds good>>
Each loop would be powered by a Mag 12(I have these pumps, might as well use them) this should achieve another 2000 GPH in the tank?
<<Not likely...coming from the basement>>
I would love to increase flow to the sump but if I drill one more hole in our beautiful hardwood floors my wife is going to kill me!
<<Hee-hee!  No worries, 750 gph is quite adequate here>>
At first when I starting researching refugiums it appeared all that was recommended was around 2x to 3x flow in the refugium so I was going to split the raw water between the tanks and valve it off to accomplish this flow.
<<Ok>>
The sump would have a baffle in it dividing the supply water and return water so the MTC HSA-250 skimmer would only skim the raw water coming in, and refugium would dump into the other section with the return to the display tank.
<<Sounds good>>
After days of reading up on WWM I now fear that even if I let all of the raw water flow thru the refugium it might not be enough.
<<No need to fear...I would proceed with your original plan (very similar to my own setup)>>
And assuming it is enough it raises another question, if I do that my fear is that the skimmer in the sump would skim off all of the pods/plankton that I am trying to feed the display tank with since I will no longer have a raw water feed to skimmer.
<<As stated...go with the original configuration allowing the 'fuge to drain directly to the pump chamber.  If you want/think you need more flow in the refugium, place a small pump in the skimmer chamber to pump water back to the refugium thus increasing flow there.  Just make sure the bulkhead that drains the 'fuge is large enough to handle the flow>>
I would prefer not to add another tank upstream of the refugium to put the skimmer in.  I guess I could pump water to the refugium from the sump and let all of the raw water go to the sump but now I have two pumps for any life to survive...not ideal.
<<An overrated concern my friend.  Most of the "life" will survive a trip through the pumps, and even the small amount that might be damaged will still benefit/be utilized in the display>>
This has brought my planning to a halt and I've spent hours reading on the web and seen so many conflicting designs it prompted this e-mail.
<<Again...go with your first instinct/inclination>>
I'm trying my best to not keep ripping things apart and buying new equipment this time in a constant pursuit of the perfect system, and spend more time enjoying the display instead of finding fault with the system.
<<Indeed...>>
For the most part the only other part of the design is there are three 250 watt heaters in the sump, a 1/4 hp chiller all controlled by a Medusa controller.
<<Very nice>>
The chiller probably won't run  much since all of this extra volume of water is in the basement.
<<A benefit>>
Auto top-off with RO/DI water.
<<Be sure to buffer before introduction>>
There will also be another closed-loop pump plumed into the skimmer section of the sump to feed a canister filter for carbon, Poly-Filter or whatever I see fit.
<<Neat!>>
Do you recommend running carbon at all times?
<<I do...a small amount changed monthly or more>>
I was planning on lighting the refugium with a Home Depot four bulb fluorescent w/65k bulbs or a PC fixture, is this enough or should I get a MH?
<<This will be fine>>
I have a lot of what used to be Fiji live rock from the old display I can only assume that it is not Live anymore since it has  not been in water in some time, should I not use any of it or can I use some as base/foundation rock under new live rock.
<<You can do this, though best to use all new live rock if possible>>
I assume in time it will become live from the seeding of the new live rock.
<<Yes, though it will never be "like it was">>
Will it always stand out in the tank as not quite the same as the new or will in time it all look like a continuous reef?
<<Will not be noticeable in time>>
Lastly I would like to run this reef as naturally as possible, there are always so many snake-oil additives and supplements being pushed on us aquarists, are there any that you see as a must iodine? strontium?
<<Iodine maybe, calcium/buffer likely...but test for the need before dosing.  If you run the calcium reactor you probably won't need to dose the latter at all>>
I have always used Instant Ocean salt mix, I read a lot on the web trashing it.
<<A long time quality product...bashed in the current "fad" craze many hobbyists fall prey to.  No need to change in my opinion>>
Should I use something else for a reef tank?
<<Not in my opinion...is what I use>>
I have been using WWM for years and have gotten a wealth of information from it.
<<Ah yes...>>
I have always refrained from e-mailing you instead of just searching and reading on your site, so I hope you don't mind this lengthy e-mail I guess I just got it all out at once!
John
<<Not a problem my friend.  Regards, EricR>>

Re: Refugium Design/System Design/Maintenance - 10/07/06
Hi Eric,
<<Hello John>>
Thanks for your reply it confirmed that for the most part I am on the right track but if you could just clarify a few things I would appreciate it.
<<Be happy to>>
Is 1" of sand in the display tank too much?  I know if it's not at least 5"-6" DSB for NNR than it should be shallow, just want to make sure it's shallow enough.
<<Should be fine...will likely get rearranged a bit by water flow/critters>>
I understand that the actinics at 12" off the water will be strictly for aesthetic reasons but that's just what I intended them to be.
<<I see>>
With regard to the 400w MH, if they prove to be too much could I use some kind of diffuser to cut down on the intensity in the tank?
<<Mmm, can't think of anything that would be of real use here.  If this proves to be an issue you can switch the bulbs to a higher Kelvin temperature (generally of less PAR), raise the height of the bulbs over the water, switch back to the 250s...>>
Also could you recommend a DIY spot to look for me to build my own moon lights, I understand that the LED's need to be of a certain spectrum and if I do this down the road I want to make sure
there would be some benefit not just look cool.
<<Of a certain spectrum?...moonlights?  Have never heard that...and have my doubts as to its validity...more marketing-hype if you ask me...  Honestly, your "moonlight" can be as simple as a small low-wattage incandescent bulb left to burn 24/7.  But if you're set on making your own you can try OzReef (http://ozreef.org/diy_plans/lighting/neon_moonlight.html), or buy a book from Amazon on DIY moonlights for about eight bucks (http://www.amazon.com/DIY-Moon-Light-Make-Your/dp/0975311107)...or pull up one of the computer accessory sites and order yourself a low-voltage "cold-cathode" (neon) tube in your fave color for about twelve dollars plus shipping>>
As far as the RO/DI top off being buffered I mentioned that it runs thru two 24" cylinders filled with crushed coral, I was led to believe that this would buffer the water.
<<It will...but to what extent?  I would test the effluent re pH and alkalinity and assure these are being pushed back up to NSW levels>>
I try to keep as automated as possible not only for ease but mainly for consistency in the aquarium.
<<As do I>>
If this is not adequate buffering can you recommend something fairly automated?
<<Mmm, no...will require "manual" additions of a buffering compound to the RO reservoir as far as I'm aware>>
Go back to my Nilsen reactor?
<<Another possibility, though Bob is probably squirming in his seat as he reads this...>>
The only reason I originally built it was due to using the calcium reactor with CO2 I did have trouble with low pH.
<<Not uncommon...sometimes a matter of striking the right balance between the tank and the reactor.  If backing-off on the reactor is not feasible, adding a second media chamber reportedly helps with using up residual CO2 and raising the pH of the effluent>>
I did not have a refugium at that time, I am  hoping one of this size (100 gal) will help, especially with a reverse cycle lighting schedule.
<<Should...some...>>
I decided to keep my original plan for the refugium and sump (splitting the raw water) and if the flow thru the 'fuge proves not to be enough I'll have to address it later.
<<Good enough...though I suspect all will be fine>>
I decided to use Chaetomorpha and am hoping that the flow is
enough to keep it "tumbling".
<Mmm...Anthony would disagree, but in my experience the Chaetomorpha does not need to "tumble."  I have had mine sitting "static" for more than three years with no problems.  Not to say that "tumbling" might not be better...just not a "necessity">>
If I needed more flow you suggested a pump in the skimmer side of the sump to the 'fuge.
<<Yes...have used this method myself in the past>>
The return from the 'fuge should be big enough I used 2" between  
the two stock tanks, but given that the sump is divided in two with the skimmer side spilling over to the pump side to maintain a consistent water level for the skimmer, wouldn't that start draining the skimmer side down?
<<Only one way to know for sure...but consider this, the flow "in" to the skimmer chamber will also increase>>
Would it be  acceptable to just put a small powerhead in the 'fuge?
<<Is what I am doing with mine now>>
As far as the closed-loop circulation in the display I did not mention that the two Mag-12s will be right under the tank with only a couple of feet of head (I'm not crazy about this for noise reasons but once again I just couldn't bear to put more holes in my floor!).
<<Ah, I see>>
I'm starting to rethink the canister filter being pumped in a closed-loop fashion from the skimmer side of the sump.  I have read on WWM that you should not use chemical filtration before skimming, and certainly this design would be taking some of the raw water and doing just that.
<<True...but a minor concern in my opinion.  Still, you could do this from the pump chamber if it suits you better>>
If I pump it from the pump side of the sump would the chemical and mechanical filtration have a negative effect on any plankton trying to reach the display?
<<Some will be lost, yes.  I use two chemical reactors in my sump (between the skimmer and pump chambers) and have observed very minimal "plankton" removal.  The benefits of the chemical filtration outweigh any disadvantage re I feel>>
What do you think of simply putting a 50 or 100 micron sock with carbon right in the pump side of the sump, sounds too easy but sometimes we think too hard in this hobby.
<<Some folks use this "passive" method of chemical filtration...has some benefit, though much less effective in my opinion than "active" methods of pushing the water through the media>>
Do you prefer Lugol's iodine or something like Tech-I from Kent?
<<I use/prefer a "Lugol's" solution...must be used very carefully/dosed precisely with care given to how/where it is introduced to the system>>
Lastly I think I will just get all new live rock, I will need quite a bit between the display and the 'fuge, can you recommend a place that sells quality rock affordable?
<<Several hobbyists in my local marine club have been raving lately about the rock they received from Reefer Madness>>
You have been a tremendous help and I am much more confident moving forward with my new set-up.
<<It has been my pleasure>>
My hope is that with roughly 260 gallons supporting a 110 gallon display I should have a very stable environment.
<<Will contribute greatly...assuming all other aspects of good husbandry are maintained>>
Have a great weekend!  (Go Yankees!!!)
John
<<And to you in kind.  Eric Russell>>

Reef Conversion/Stock Selection…More Research Needed - 10/01/06
-- Hey Crew,
<<Hey Sharon!>>
Sorry, I just tried to write and send you an email, but I accidentally pushed the send button before it was finished.  Sorry if it wasted your time.  I will go ahead and rewrite it now, and try not to send it early this time.
<<No worries mate...I did see this and deleted the partial message...no harm done <grin> >>
I am currently upgrading my 46 gal. bowfront FOWLR tank to a reef.
<<Neat!>>
I have 50 lbs of Fiji LR in the tank, and another 25 lbs. curing in a Rubbermaid container (I love those things).
<<Yes indeed.  But do be careful not to "overstock your tank with rock"...need to leave room for animals to grow/swim>>
I am planning on keeping the following livestock: a flame angel, 2 percula clowns, 2 Banggai cardinals, a Midas blenny, a lawnmower
blenny, a blood red fire shrimp, a skunk cleaner shrimp, a reef cleaner package, a torch coral, a galaxy coral, a pink birdsnest coral, a neon pineapple tree coral, a white pompom xenia, a thin finger leather coral, a crocea clam , and eventually an anemone (I haven't decided on the species yet, but a suggestion would be appreciated).
<<Mmm...before I get started here let me first say "kudos to you" for making a list and asking questions before "jumping in" to a reef setup...but I do think you need to do a bit more research re your species selections.  The fish selection should be fine (though I'm not sure about the blennies coexisting in this size tank), but your coral selection will likely be problematic in this small space/volume of water.  The torch and galaxy corals are very aggressive, possessing long sweeper tentacles with a very powerful sting to clear/keep clear the surrounding reefscape of other encroaching organisms.  The leather coral and the neon tree coral (a photosynthetic Neptheid I presume), while not as "obvious" in their aggression, are still nothing to be trifled with.  These soft corals possess an arsenal of "chemical" weapons that no amount of "spacing apart" will defend against.  The birdsnest coral, and the Xenia will be less problematic than the others.  Now I'm not saying people don't/can't keep a "mixed garden" reef, but as a new "reefer" I recommend you limit your selections to a single species, genus, or even family, until you get your reefing feet under you.  As for the anemone, I don't even recommend advanced aquarists keep a motile invert such as these in a tank full of sessile invertebrates.  If you really want an anemone, I highly suggest you first, research (heavily) these animals/the species you choose, and second, build the tank/environment as a specimen tank to suit this animal>>
I am going to purchase a lighting system with a 175w metal halide, two 65w actinic compact fluorescents, and 4 lunar LED lights.  I will use a 150w Visi-Therm Stealth heater.  For water motion, I am going to purchase two 270gph Power Sweep and connect them to a wave-maker along with the Maxi-Jet power-head I already have.  For filtration and skimming, I was wondering what you thought about the ViaAqua Multi-Skimmer.  It skims the water and includes mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration.
<<Don't waste your money/the lives of your animals.  Purchase a "quality" skimmer (I suggest the AquaC Remora hang-on skimmer...or the Urchin if you will have a sump) and a small canister filter for chemical filtration (carbon/Poly-Filter).  Your live rock will serve as your biological filter>>
If you don't know much about it you can find more out at http://www.commodityaxis.com/ProductData.aspx?id=58.  I am currently doing 20% water changes monthly.
<<Excellent>>
Will this be sufficient for a reef system, or would it be better to do 10% water changes bimonthly.
<<The 20% monthly is good>>
I test for pH, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, and phosphates at least every other week.
<<Mmm, would do this "at least" after every water change>>
When I upgrade, I will also test for calcium.
<<...and alkalinity...magnesium...>>
I currently add trace elements weekly?  What supplements do you suggest adding to the reef tank.
<<Calcium, buffer, iodine, possibly magnesium...during water changes...and NONE without first testing for the NEED to dose>>
What food would you suggest for the fish?
<<New Life Spectrum pellets, frozen mysids/plankton, Sweetwater Zooplankton, Spirulina algae flakes soaked in Selcon and/or Boyd's Vita-Chem...all in combination daily...at least twice if possible>>
Thanks for the help,
Sharon
<<A pleasure to share.  EricR>>

Optimal Reef Temperature    9/22/06
Looking for some help....I've searched the web and the many varieties of answers still confuse me. <Many opinions>
I've got a 55 gal w/ live rock and the following livestock:
toadstool, pulsing xenia, 2 BTAs, 1 sebae, a pair of mated clowns, 3 cardinals, 1 zebra sailfin tang, coral-banded shrimp, and some  peppermint shrimp.
What is the "optimum" temperature that I should seek for this reef  set-up?
Thanks folks!
<Most reefs in the world average about 80-82F, I would suggest about 81F is best.>
<Chris>

Deep Thoughts On A Deep Aquarium  8/8/06
Greetings crew from the West Coast of Oz,
<Hello From So Cal- Scott F. with you today.>
I am about to 'inherit' a setup from a colleague who is moving to the other side of the country and I hoping you can help me decide the best use of the system.
<I'll do my best!>
Ok, here we go. It is a 150 US gallon tank (Yep our gallons are different to yours!) and measures 48" in length, 24" wide and 30" in depth, it has two MHs (170w Aqua Medic Ocean Light 150s). I will be adding a sump (20 gallon), skimmer etc etc.
<Nice sized aquarium, and a good lighting system...>
I currently have a smaller (50gal) tank which consist of a sand base, live rock, Bubbletip, Clown, Coral Beauty, Yellow Tang, Fox fish, 3-4 Trochus snails, along with a couple of hermit crabs etc.
<A bit crowded in the 50, but it will be nice to have the upgrade!>
I am hoping to use this existing stock as the base for the new tank.
<Definitely a good start. In fact, you probably would not be putting too many new fishes in the tank after that.>
I am hoping to establish a reef setup in the new tank and have the impression from researching this and other sites that there are really only a couple of options of reef types that I can do, primarily either SPS corals or LPS corals, do I have this right?
<Actually, no! there are all sorts of "reef" systems you can try. You can do soft coral tanks, Zoanthid biotopes, Seagrass biotopes (my personal favorite), single species tanks, just rock with no coral, or even just all sand...Dozens and dozens of ideas, any of which could qualify as a "reef" system. Find a niche on the reef that you find interesting, research the animals that reside there, and set up your system accordingly. It's called a "biotope" system, and is a great way to run an aquarium.>
If so which particular coral type would be the most suitable for the setup?
<As above- sooo many choices!>
Or alternatively can you give me an indication of what types of corals I should consider for this setup. It is particularly the lighting that I am worried about for this depth tank. (Are there other lighting options I haven't considered?)
<Well, the depth is a bit of a challenge if you're going for very demanding "SPS" corals, such as Porites, etc., but many of the more popular and less demanding stony corals can do fine under this lighting regimen, particularly if mounted higher up on the rockwork. I guess the bigger question is, "What kinds of animals do you like?" That's really the bottom line. Just because you are keeping "SPS" corals does not mean that you have to "nuke" them tank with ultra-high-wattage halides. Some have different requirements. Also, you may be able to compensate somewhat by feeding them. As mentioned above, study the types of animals that you intend to keep and work your system accordingly. We've got a wealth of material on this site about lighting reef systems, so you can see that there are many alternatives.>
My LFS is trying very hard to sell me 2 more 250's but they want AUS$1500.00 for the pleasure, something I am keen to avoid as I don't have that amount just laying around at the moment! :-)
<I hear ya! That's quite a steep price tag! Do a bit of research and look into animals that may do well under a more modest lighting arrangement. You'll find there are more options than you might think!>
You guys/girls(?) do a great job, keep it up.
<We're thrilled to be here!>
Regards and thanks in advance.
Hebbs
<You're quite welcome! Have fun! Regards, Scott F.>

Trading Spaces- Marine Aquarium Style!   8/4/06
I have a 75 gallon tank with some hearty soft corals, and fish. I would like to move these fish to another tank, possibly a 110 gallon. Fish include Flagfin Angel, Potters Angel, Yellow Tang, two Skunk Clowns, and a Randall's Goby.
<Nice fish- but that tank is really maxed out on stocking, IMO. You'll need those larger quarters for these guys in the very near future. I'd think more like 150 gallons, plus.>
I also have a 40 hex tank with two Percula Clowns, a Golden Angel, and Yellow Goby. This tank also has two anemones that have divided, I would like to move these fish into the 75 gallon tank, but I don't know if the lighting on the 75 is strong enough for two bubble anemones. The lighting is 220 watts
of T5 lighting, the 40 hex has a Coralife 150 tank mount metal halide.
<The lighting is probably barely passable with the T5's, for anemones. I am a big fan of T5 lighting, but I think I'd stick to halides for anemones. The bigger issue is the overcrowding that you'll create by moving these fishes into this already overcrowded 75. I'd be inclined to get a larger tank!>
If I decide not two get the 110 right know, I would like to at least upgrade the 40 hex that I feel is not a good tank for these fish. Would a 46 gallon 36 inches long be worth it, or should I get another 75 gallon tank, Thanks Ron
<I'd go for the largest tank possible, and pay heavy attention to water quality. Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Upgrade ... FOWLR to a reef, reading WWM   6/2/06
Hey Crew,
<Aaron>
I currently have a 49G bowfront FOWLR.  I want to upgrade to a reef tank, but I need a little advice.  I already have an Emperor BIO-WHEEL filter, an Excalibur skimmer, 50 lbs. of live rock, a three inch crushed coral sand bed, a heater, and 2 powerheads.  I didn't mention lighting before because I know I need more intensity.  I want to purchase an orbit compact florescent sight fixture with LED lunar lights and a total of 384 watts.  I wanted make sure that this lighting would be sufficient enough to house a bubble-tip anemone, a Birdsnest coral, Hammer coral, Trumpet coral, some kind of Xenia , and either a Crocea or Derasa clam. 
<... I encourage you to leave out the anemone here. Please see WWM re>
I am also considering purchasing an Aquafuge refugium.  If I do decide to get one, it will most likely be the Aquafuge PS system.  I will then buy a small light to use with it.  I was wandering if you thought it was worth $250 or not.
<If this is for the lighting alone... myself am a cheapskate and would go with a less expensive lighting arrangement. If for all, is reasonable>
As far a fish go, I would like to house clown that will interact with the anemone, two Banggai Cardinals, an orchid Dottyback, a flame angel, and possibly a group of three Blue Reef Chromis.  I am also planning on keeping a blood red fire shrimp, many hermits and snails, and something to keep the substrate clean.
  I also want a wave maker and a couple more powerheads, and I was hoping you could give me a suggestion.           
        Thanks for all of your help,                 
            Aaron
<Am not a fan of wavemakers... What you hint about and more is gone over and over on WWM: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm
Bob Fenner>

A Sound Plan ... reef stkg, sys. 4/5/06
Hi Crew!!!!
okay, I have been researching, researching & researching...after all that, I have decided to just go ahead and make the plunge w/ a 125g tank (55g refugium) to house a green target mandarin....(I figure this project will take me abut a year and a half, if all goes well)
I have come up w/ a list of fish/inverts that I think will do well as community and would like any thoughts anyone might have
Yellow target goby
Scott’s fairy wrasse pair
Bartlett’s Anthias pair... (Will these be too competitive for food w/ the mandarin?)
Lawnmower blenny
purple firefish mated pair
percula clown pair
blue-spotted Rabbitfish
a toadstool or two for the clownfish
xenia
and some small polyps
cleaner shrimp
feather dusters
also, what should the depth of the sandbed be?.....can I use silica and seed with live?.....and then seed the entire tank w/ copepods?
I know that seagrass needs about a 6 in sandbed....could it be kept in this type of environment?....and would it be beneficial to overall health of the occupants?
is there anything I have missed that should be added?
any input is greatly appreciated....is this too many fish?....any competing fish in my list?....too aggressive?...thank you all ahead of time!:-)......take care, Wendy.....ps, great site, thanks for sharing
<Hi Wendy, Ryan with you today.  Quite a plan you're concocting!  If you're interested in creating an environment that's targeted around a Mandarin Goby, you truly want to eliminate as many pod-hunters as possible.  The Blenny, the Rabbitfish and the Clowns are all great choices- but as you guessed, the others may out-compete, or worse yet, prevent a sustainable pod population from forming if introduced too early.  Long term, you may be able to add these as your refugium matures.  
Sandbed depth is up for grabs.  There are conflicting ideas as to the use of them...In my opinion, either go with 6 inches or nothing!  You're welcome to use an artificial sandbed and seed it...But remember that it will take much longer to mature.  Check craigslist for people breaking down reefs- Maybe you can find a steal.  
I think you're on the right track!  Good luck, Ryan>

Re: Hi from Australia... reef set-up   4/7/06
Hi Bob,
<Adam>
First, thank you for your reply. WWM is certainly a credit to you and the others involved. Second, let me apologize for asking questions that you have already answered.
<If you looked... no problem>
However, I'd like to explain why I asked the questions. It is not from being lazy and it is not because there is a lack of information available, it is because _there is too much information available_....
<Mmm, not possible, probable IMO/E>
and it is often contradictory.
<! This can be/is a problem... though, if folks do have differing views, reasons (stated) that don't agree... so be it>
As for WWM, the FAQ's are so large, it is hard to find exactly what I need.
<The fields involved in "ornamental aquatics" are vast... Vast>
Again, there is so much info it is hard to distill the "truth". I'm a researcher by trade so I know how to find information, but, on this subject, I don't have the necessary knowledge to sort the wheat from the chaff so to speak, hence, I asked for help.
<I wish, hope you have ideas on how to make improvements here then... how would you arrange, re-arrange this experience? Are there other more-useful indexing tools? A different/additional arrangement of indices? What?>
So, I'll continue my search. As suggested, I'll look for more info on:
Refugium flow rate
Tank water flow and motion
siphon/overflow flow rates
Lighting (so much debate on this)
<Yes>
One last direct question. In one of your responses below, you say to change the water during cycling if it becomes toxic. What do you define as toxic?
<More than about 1.0 ppm of NH3, NO2...>
I would expect that there are going to be detectable amounts of ammonia and nitrite during the process. How much is too much? ..... sorry if this has already been answered too. If so, a link would be much appreciated.
Again, thank you for you help and expert opinion.
Your sincerely,
Adam Langman
<Thank you for yours. Bob Fenner>

Reef Planning/Deciding - 02/09/06
Good afternoon all.
<<Good Evening Kristen>>
First, thank you for your sage advice in all things fishy.  I have read your sight until my eyes have crossed and I believe that every time I have opened this sight I learn something new and informative right along with something new and scary.
<<Hee!  Hopefully you keep reading until you're not "afraid" anymore <G>. >>
I am returning to the hobby after 3 moves, 2 kids and 3 jobs.
<<Mmm, trying to think of something clever to say here...>>
Previously had a 55G FO tank with very little knowledge (so long ago that the internet was not yet available)
<<Been at this more than 30 years myself...I can relate.>>
yet managed to make it survive for several years.
<<Hmm, depending on how far back we're talking...keeping marine fish alive for a couple years truly was an accomplishment!>>
Bought a reef ready 72 G bowfront with stand for my husband's birthday.
<<Okay, gotta ask...was this a gift for him?...or was this a gift "to" him "for" you?>>
He and I agreed that before we pour one drop of water in it that we would buy all the system stuff first so we don't have to worry about adding on and replumbing.
<<Mmm, am in agreement here...but hopefully you also have a "plan" for what you want to do/animals you wish to keep.>>
So, we are building our sump (20 g long w/3 chambers).  Our skimmer will be either the AquaC-EV120 or the Euro Reef RS6-2 plus and we want a calcium reactor.
<<Are you sure you will need one?>>
My humble question of the day is... which skimmer is best designed to work with a Ca reactor?  I can get the AquaC already fitted with a JG fitting which would minimize having to figure out some of the plumbing on my own.  Yet the Euro Reef seems dummy proof in its operation.  Any advice in solving my great quandary would be greatly appreciated.
<<Not so tuff really...choose the one that best fits your space.  Both are quality skimmers and will serve you well...the AquaC can be fitted to accept the reactor effluent directly, true...but if you decide on the Euro Reef, you can easily disperse the reactor effluent in the refugium (is what I do with my setup).
Thanks all for your great service!
Kristen
<<Happy to assist, EricR>>

150 Reef set-up Qs  - 01/23/2006
Hello , and Greetings from Canada......
<"Oh, Canada...">
  I would like your comments on the following....    I have a  Perfecto 150 gallon tank with one 7 "corner overflow , and was wondering if this was enough ?
<For?>
The tank is 48x24x30 . The sump is an All-Glass Model 4 with a Mag Drive 36 , and a Red Sea Prism Pro Deluxe , and  a  902 powerhead for in-tank circulation . Would this be all right ?
<...? I would have an a valve to throttle down (and off) the Mag... it may be too much for your overflow here.>
   Lighting is a Coralife 48 " professional series , with 2 -150 watt 10,000 k , 2- 96 watt actinic , and 3 lunar lights. I think this is all right , but was wondering if I could use  two strips of Coralife T5's, 10,000 daylight and true actinic that I had on my 55 gallon , or would this be too much ?
<Not too much light/ing>
   There is 80 pounds of Marshall Island , with not too much coralline yet , and I am getting a 100 pounds of Fiji , to go along with this . Will this be enough ?
<Aesthetically? Probably not. Functionally likely so>
    Lastly , I have some Carib Sea Arag Alive Fiji pink , (6, 20 pound bags ) ,and would like to add about 80 pounds of Carib Sea "Special Reef " sand , but am wondering about the right mixture , if at all . I can add some crushed coral to this . I am really confused on this . What is your preference ?
       I thank you for your input ,
             Ted Stasso
<Depends on what livestock you intend to keep, what you like to look at. Bob Fenner>

Advice on new reef tank set-up   1/20/06
Hi Crew,
<Tom>
I'm planning a move to my second reef tank, from an old and scratched 60Lx18Wx24H setup, and would like to ask for your advice on the plan. I'd
like to get a custom flat back hexagon, 54x24x24, around 120G. 1/2" acrylic construction, diagram attached.
<Don't see>
Circulation by two 1" Seaswirls, one in each rear corner. One SS to be fed via closed loop on a 1100GPH
Mak4 pump, the other via the built-in overflow to a 30G sump with an AquaC EV180, returned by a second Mak4 to the second SS (will this Mak4 be too
much flow through the sump, or is it OK?).
<Depends... on size, shape, make-up, configuration...>
Main lighting by two 250W Aqualine 10K MH, and one T5 actinic and one T5 blue. Will also have a
calcium reactor, Phosban reactor, chiller (and heater) for constant temp. I'm planning a separate 15G refugium on a slow feed in/out of the sump.
Livestock will be mostly SPS, a few LPS down low, two tridacnids, and a medium load of fish. Also have about 150 lbs live rock.
That's the basic description, can you tell me if I'm heading down the right path? What do you like (or not like) about this setup? What else
should I consider?
Thanks,
Tom
<Sounds like a very nice set-up... an impressive shape system as well. Bob Fenner>

Getting Started   12/28/05
Greetings,<Hello Eric> My apologies if this is a duplicate e-mail, I have not had much luck getting e-mails out to you guys. I have been in this great hobby for
about a year now.  I currently have a 29g FOWLR and have just purchased a 75g for my next step. I plan on using the 29g for my quarantine tank <Great> and
want set up the 75g for a reef system. I have read several hours (if not days) worth of material on WWM and think I have retained enough info to just
get started. Please advise if I am on the wrong track.  My goal is to add an assortment of corals and fish.  With my lighting listed below, I am under
the impression that only stony corals will be off limits. I plan on letting the live rock and sand take care of the filtering, forgoing mechanical
filtration-please let me know if the amounts of LR and sand will be sufficient for this. I am ready to purchase everything I need-just wanted
reassurance before doing so. <Eric, you are borderline with the lighting.  Really should be looking at four watts per gallon.  You are around 3 1/2 watts per gallon.>
90-100lb of Live Rock
60lb CaribSea Aragamax Reef Sand
AquaC Remora Pro Skimmer w/Mag-Drive 3
Orbit Light Fixture- 4x65W w/4lunar lights
(4) Maxijet 1200 Powerheads
<Your selection above looks good for all but the lighting.  I'm guessing your tank is 18" high. Its pretty deep for just the four 65's.  Consider Orbit's fixture that includes two 150 HQI lamps or to save money look at the retrofit systems if you are using a custom hood.>
Thank you for all the wonderful information, <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Eric

Temperature Control in Reef Aquaria  12/17/05
Hi Adam, I need your advice again.
<That’s what I’m here form hello again Jerry.>
The Outer Orbit lights work great!
<Glad you like it.>
But my tank is now running hot 82.4 degrees with room temp of 72 degrees. I was
looking at Pacific Coast 1/10 chiller or Artica Titanium 1/10 or
Current/Prime 1/10. Any thoughts on these brands or size on a 125 Acrylic.
<On a 125 I would go with at least the 1/5 or ¼. Smaller chillers seem to be perpetually “ON” and thus even though they are smaller, end up using a lot more energy. As far as brands look into the Titanium Artica made by JBJ.>
(120# live rock, 4" sand bed, unknown size wet/dry sump, Top Fathom Skimmer
and Little Giant 4-MDQ-SC rated at 810 gallons at 3feet). I do have air
conditioning for the house in summer but we usually set it at 78 degrees so
I'm thinking a chiller is needed.
<Also consider some fans blowing across the surface of the sump or display.>
Could I use the sump/skimmer pump for the
chiller?
<You can, personally I didn’t want my return pump being obstructed by other media (I wanted to get the biggest “bang” out of it), so for that reason I used another pump to put the chiller on a closed loop.>
Should I place the chiller in the stand or mount it on the basement
wall below the tank?
<They are VERY noisy, place it as far away from you as possible, I keep mine in a shed outside.>
Thanks again for your help, Jerry
<No problem, Adam J.>

Reef Tank and Traveling - 12/13/2005
Hello all,
<Hello, Bryan, Sabrina with you today.>
First your site is an absolute gem for information concerning "reefing", thanks for all the hard work.
<Thank you very much for these kind words!>
Is it possible to maintain a reef tank while also traveling for business?
<Likely so.>
I currently have a 58 gallon oceanic, 192 watts of actinic and 10,000K lighting (the tank is less than 24 inches deep), a Remora protein skimmer with surface skimmer, a Rena Filstar 3 with the addition of Rowaphos,
<I, personally, would omit this, or only use it when you need to run chemical filtrants - the canister could easily trap decaying organic matter and detritus and end up causing you some nitrate issues as a result....  I would instead try a hang-on-back power filter for constant use (empty) and/or occasional use for chemical filtrants.>
oscillating power heads for water movement, 2-3 inches of reef sand,
<IMO, better to be less than an inch or more than four.>
and 35lbs of live rock. Are there any tasks that could be or should be automated?
<What tasks are you currently performing regularly that you wish to automate?  I would look into doing an automatic top off almost certainly, for starters.  Lighting, of course, should be on timers.>
Are there corals or fish I should stay away from?
<Anything that needs great attention to feeding - Anthias, for example, would be a horrible choice.>
I currently have two false perculas, a lawn mower blenny, a cleaner shrimp, a serpent star, and a medley of crabs and snails. There are also two stands of Xenia, which have been present for about a month and doing well, and a few mushrooms just added this week. I was looking to add an elegance, frogspawn, toadstool, starburst polyp, tree or colt leather, and possibly a brain. In way of fish, a six line wrasse, and maybe a goby/ shrimp combo. The fish will be fed small pellets while on the road via an automatic feeder, and a mixture of frozen while at home.
<The goby may be very difficult to wean onto pelleted foods - they tend to be very skittish once paired with their shrimp.  I would be a little (well, okay, a lot) concerned that the automatic feeder just wouldn't cut it for this fellah or his retiring shrimpy pal.  Anything that is generally a little tough to feed is going to be a tough option.>
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks,  -Bryan
<All the best to you,  -Sabrina>

Whole new tank  12/14/05
Dear WWM crew,
<Hiya Randy!>
     This question is more of a chronological nature than anything else.  I
am new to saltwater, but very experienced in fresh.  While I’m sure I have
the devotion necessary for the hobby, I’m just as sure I don’t have the
funds to start in an ideal way. <No reason to rush!> My goal is to have a thriving reef tank
with a mix of soft and stony corals. <Worthy goal and a good challenge.> I plan to start with a bare bones system and add as financially possible. <Pretty common approach.> I already have the tank (218 gal reef ready) and 55 gal sump/Caulerpa algal scrubber. <NICE.> I will also heat or chill as necessary. If I fill this tank with 4 inches of fine mixed grain
live sand <No need for it ALL to be live sand. A few handfuls of live sand will inoculate a sterile bed and have it tip-top in just a few weeks.> and the appropriate sand critters/gal will the system survive in this bare bones manner until I can afford to add live rock a piece or two at a time. <Fair enough.> If so, what type of lighting would I need for the main tank while it is sand only, <None.> when I start adding rock, <Full-spectrum fluorescents work fine.> soft corals, <Depends on the species...> and finally hard corals? <REALLY depends on the species.> At what point do I add a skimmer? <Before/when you start getting live rock.>  What other “goodies (UV sterilizer <Nah>, types of calcium supplementation <Very big question, but don't need to worry about it for quite a while.>, etc.)” and when to add them,
do you recommend?  Besides monetary reasons, I am hoping that this approach
will allow me to acclimate myself to each stage of the reef building
process, as right now, even after 2 months of sponging up info, I still feel
like a saltwater fish out of water.
<Let me recommend you try out our forums! http://WetWebFotos.com/talk - you'll gain a lot from chatting with the friendly folks (and crewmembers, including myself) in the Saltwater Newbies forum!>
Thanks – Randy from Florida
<Cheers, Zo from California>

So you're goin' for a reef eh? - 12/11/2005
Mr. Fenner,
<Actually Josh today. Bob is out and about, so I'm sorry that we're just now getting this out to you.>
Hello. I just recently found your site on the internet and must say I am most impressed.
<Glad you've enjoyed it. Hope that you'll find much more use for it in the future.>
It seems as if you are the biggest help to people like myself who are mere novices. I have a 125gal going from all-fish to FOWLR in
process after moving right now (still waiting on the last 90# of live rock to cure) and in the mean time my fish are cooped in a 35 gal set up.
<Glad to see you've read on curing LR. So exactly how "cooped" are we talkin'?>
My question; to turn my 35, being 20in deep, into a reef tank can I get good results with VHO lighting instead of metal halide?
<Yes. VHO or PC. Of course all will depend on what you ultimately wish to stock. I would not put MH lights on a 35.>
Also, is it imperative for me to run a sump and/or refugium or just ample liverock?
<Sumps and refugia are not "musts" but they are an extremely useful adjunct. LR is the same way, but none of these take the place of your regular duties.>
First time with a reef and I have TONS of questions.
<I think you'll like this move, but take it slowly. Read through our Marine FAQ's, particularly the set-up, filtration and lighting for captive reefs. Much to absorb/analyze. Many paths to the same goal. Grab some coffee; there must be "hundreds" of FAQ's to each "one" of your questions.>
Thank You So Much,
Jeff Gilmore
<You're welcome Jeff. Have fun! - Josh>

Reef Equipment  12/10/05
Good Afternoon,
<Hello, evening now. Adam J here with you.>
I have been enjoying the saltwater hobby for about 2 years now. I started with a 11 gal nano cube and for the last year have been maintaining a 29 gallon FOWLR tank (no major catastrophes-thanks to all the research available on your website).
<Glad we could help.>
I am now planning on jumping up to a 75 or 100 gallon and trying my hand at a reef system. I have searched to no avail on wetweb for help with my question-my apologies if this info is posted somewhere-I may not be using the correct search words. I have found a set up kit (minus the tank & stand) that includes the following: (I have deleted the small no brainer items)
Amiracle Maxi Reef W/D filter (MR-100)
<I'm not a fan of wet-dry on reef tanks, much rather utilize the space as a refugium.>
TurboFlotor 1000 multi protein skimmer
<Not to keen on this product either, would rather use a more quality brand like Aqua-C, Euro-reef or ASM.>
48" Aqualite Pro Double ended HQI metal halide, compact fluorescent and blue moon glow led lamps
<Depends on what coral you want to keep but overall a decent fixture.>
Maxi-Jet Wavemaker system
<This is pretty good to.>
As you can guess this kit is quite expensive and I am wanting to ensure that I am getting what I need, and not falling for a marketing ploy.
<These products can work but they are not what I would choose.>
If the above items are not what you think I need, would you please give your recommendation.  I have really enjoyed the info you have on your site and look forward to hearing from you.
<Good luck with your new set-up.>
Thank you, Eric Mullins.
<Adam J.>

Conversion to Reef and Skimmer Selection 12/1/2005
Hi,
<Hello Rob.>
I have a 55 gal FOWLR tank that I would like to turn into a reef setup.
<Welcome to the addiction.>
I currently have a ViaAqua canister filter and Prizm skimmer. I intend to remove the canister filter and add a refugium
<Great move.>
and new skimmer (probably modify a 20 gal tank to contain a protein skimmer and the refugium) and rely on the skimmer, refugium and LR for filtration. The tank is not drilled, so I would have to use an over flow. I've read mixed reviews on your site. Have you had any experience with the CPR or Marineland SOS overflows?
<Generally not a fan of any hang on overflows but I know people who have had success with those manufactured by CPR and All Glass Aquariums.>
Also, I was hoping you might be able to recommend a better skimmer than what I have now. I have been considering the Turboflotor 1000 or Aqua-C Urchin. Would these be good options? They seem to get a lot of good review on your site. Most of the stores in my area seem to carry the Coralife Superskimmer, CPR Bak-Pak and Pro-Clear Aquatics skimmers. Do these work well?
<The Aqua-C Urchin will easily out perform the others you have listed.>
I appreciate any help you can provide.
<Hope this is what you were looking for.>
Thanks,
Rob
<Welcome, Adam J.> 

Re: Reef Conversion and Skimmer Selection  12/03/05
Thanks for the response.
<Quite welcome.>
One quick follow-up question. For the size setup I propose, would you recommend the stander Aqua-C Urchin or the Urchin Pro?
<If you have the resources I always say the bigger the better, I don't "believe" in over-skimming.>
Would the Pro skim too much?
<See above.>
Thanks, Rob
<Welcome, Adam J.> 

Planning tank...input, mandarin dragonet  12/2/05
Hi all,
<Hello Rod, James here today> 
I appreciate your website! I have been doing research and planning on a new tank for next year....my 20L reef is getting a  little small for me. So any input would be appreciated, as well as answers to a few questions at the end....
Planned setup is as follows: a 60x15x15 "main" reef tank (58 gallons), lit by 4x65 watt PC's (2x dual daylight 2x dual actinic).  Overflow from this tank splits into two. One out current leads to a 20L, then to the 30 gallon sump. The other flows directly to the 30 gallon sump. The flow path in the sump is first a 125 gallon rated needlewheel skimmer before a weir, then a live rock/Caulerpa refugium (as large as I can make) and finally, heaters and a return pump to the main tank. 
<Sounds good>
I plan to stock as follows: mostly soft corals and LPS, maybe a few SPS near the surface. A clam or two,
<With your lighting you will have to go with derasa clams, others require a higher light output.> 
a fire shrimp (2?) cleaner shrimp (1 only), 2-3 small featherdusters, a Bispiralis, and a sea cucumber (my reef tank vice) (plus a hermit and snail clean up crew, of course). There will be plenty of live rock in the main and 20L tanks (as many pounds as I can fit and still make it look not really really full), and a 3-4 inch sand bed. The fish in the tanks are planned as follows: for the "main", a clown pair (Yellowstripe maroons or percula), a six line wrasse, a yellow headed jawfish, a 
citrinus clown goby, a firefish, a clown goby or red headed goby, a royal Gramma and if possible, a mandarin dragonet. An angler will reside in the 20L.
My main concern is with the mandarin. I think he will have enough room and rocks, and 108 gallons of stability. Once the tank is established, and hopefully copepod- full, will there be enough pods left by my other life for a mandarin? Will that amount of live rock (I realize the amount is vague) sustain enough pods? 
<I suggest you seed the tank with pods available from online shops. Once that is accomplished, I'd wait a month to insure a healthy supply of pods.>
I read conflicting results about whether copepod nauplii will make it through a pump (it'll be a Magdrive, if that makes a difference); will they survive the that rigorous, demanding passage to the giant promised tank on the upper level? 
<You may lose some, most cling to the rocks.> 
What do you think about my fish selection 
<I'd eliminate the jawfish, too many other fish with aggressive eating habits.> 
(I do tend to get caught up in the moment, hence I have learned to plan far in advance to not give in to impulse)? Will the 
clams filter out the nauplii? 
<Not enough to matter, clams produce most of their own food.> 
I am pretty open to advice. I would like to recycle the 20L reef as a mini reef for the angler, but I know he may be demanding and poopy, 
<I'd eliminate the angler also> 
<<Eliminating anger is the first step towards tranquility.  Marina>>
so that tank may be swapped out, a home for another sessile predator, a clam tank if it doesn't eat all my copepod nauplii, or just a mini reef like it is now. But if there was a small adjustment I am overlooking for a mandarin, it 
would be nice to know in advance. Same for if it wouldn't thrive there at all. 
<With a healthy pod population the mandarin will survive. Do not suggest more than one.>
Thanks for everything, I really enjoy the site. 
<You're welcome, James (Salty Dog)> 

Big Reef Tank, Lot of Questions  10/5/05
Hi all and bless you for your work,
<Thank you.>
After about 5 mos. of reading your site and the resources you recommend (great books), I think I'm ready with some questions that need your attention, please.
<Okay.>
1.) Why is a 2" sand bed a "nutrient sink", but 4" not? Won't both accumulate detritus even though the 4" provides NNR?
< This is an area of large debate but I’ll give you some general info. 2” is not enough for a significant amount of nitrifying bacteria to build up, only in Deep Sand Beds of 4” and more (preferably 6”) do you get the “effect” of a Deep Sand Bed.  The DSB will trap and break down detritus. If you do not wish to use a DSB just use 1” of sand or less for aesthetics.  Anything in between like 2” will just accumulate the detritus but not break it down and thus you’ll end up with nutrient problems.  Another way to handle detritus is to never let it reach the sand bed. You can use high flow rates to keep the detritus suspended so that whatever filter system you have can take it on rather than leaving it in your tank. I suggest you do more research so you can decide for yourself.>
2.) My tanks dimensions, 84"X24"X24" coral and appropriate small fish. NO sps, anemones or clams.
I will choose from softs and LPS. Not sure yet which will be predominant.
Been getting (from LFS's) and references somewhat ambiguous info. regarding lighting.
While at one of my LFS's the owner showed me 2 300g reef tanks that were side by side. He said one was using 4 400w halides, the other 4 250w HQI halides. He asked me to point out the 400w tank.
I pointed to the brighter of the 2. It was the 250w HQI. I was somewhat surprised.
<I’m not surprised the smaller profile of the 250-watt HQI allows the owner to use a more efficient reflector.  This makes it more efficient than a single ended 250 watt MH and arguably as efficient as a single ended 400 W MH.>
With this in mind, I absolutely love the glitter lines of the halides, so I'm asking you for some help in choosing an appropriate number and wattage. Since the 250w HQI were as bright as the 400w, would the 150w HQI provide as much light as 175w halides? <More so in my experience.> Would 4 of either the 150HQI's or 175 regular be OK on my softy, LPS tank or do you have another recommendation? <I prefer the 150w HQI but either will work fine for what want to keep.> 150HQI is of course my preference as lower operation cost involved. What think you folks? <Well just for pure aesthetics I think some actinic lighting supplies by VHO or T-5 would look awesome when run in conjunction with the MH bulbs.>
By the way, over the last 4-5 mos. I've been regularly visiting 4 LFS's. 2 of them have had to completely break down 300g reef tanks due to cranks in the glass. One completely collapsed the other had a traveling crack starting from the top. Another tank developed a small leak and needed a break down to repair. These were excellent, well-known manufacturers of glass tanks. Just a warning for my fellow aquarists. Deal with scratches (if not careful), NOT with disasters!! Glass for small tanks only IMHO.
<Well living here in Earthquake country I’ve always dealt with acrylic myself.>
God Bless
Peter Rossetti, Lakewood, Ca. (getting ready to spend a lot of doe!!!)
<Oh your not to far from me, in Earthquake country too. Adam J.>

One Last Sanity Check - 09/02/05
Hola Crew...
<<Hi John...yep, EricR again.>>
My Fiji biotope is about to become reality.  The 150 gallon display tank (48x24x30) and the 45 gallon refugium mounted underneath in the stand (30x18x20) have been circulating plain old tap water for two days while I sort out the flow pattern in the display tank using neutrally buoyant strips of confetti.
<<neat!>>
Three tubs of 200 gallon Tropic Marin Pro-Reef salt and a brand-new 55 gallon plastic trash can are at the ready to begin the
process of establishing what I hope will become a vibrant community of life.
<<Exciting...ain't it>>
I think <deep breath> I'm ready to take the plunge.
<<Ahh...the anticipation is electric...>>
Fortunately, my local HD (Brunswick, GA) had aragonite play sand in stock and I was able to get four bags for less than twenty bucks.
<<Lucky...haven't seen it around here in SC for more than a year.>>
Using 1" PVC pipe and 90 and 45 degree elbows I have made  some sturdy stands to firmly hold live rock pieces just above (hopefully at the top of) a six inch DSB.
<<Not necessary IMO, but okay.  I prefer to put the rock on the bottom of the tank and then add sand, but your method is fine...and preferred/recommended by some.>>
Here's the plan I want to float <heh> by you.  I want to drain all the tap water from the system and refill it with salt water mixed to 1.025 SPG.
<<Again fine, but not necessary.  I would merely add salt mix to the existing water.>>
Then, one week later I want to get 50 pounds of uncured live rock and 50 pounds of live sand from Fiji via an e-tailer, along with a handful of Chaeto for the refugium and put them in all at once to start the curing cycle.  There will be a six inch DSB in both the display tank and the refugium, with a reverse lighting cycle from the display tank for the 'fuge.
<<excellent>>
I have an AquaC Remora Pro protein skimmer and a pound of charcoal
in the raw water receiving chamber of the refugium.  I know I will probably need another hundred pounds of live rock, but the budget, she won't stand in one month :-)
<<Be careful with how much rock you add.  Keep the rockwork open and don't get hung up on "filling the tank" with rock.  Sometimes less is more.>>
The additional live rock will be added in 20-50 pound bunches over a couple of months, after a curing period in a separate container.
<<Ahh, good>>
Once the system has cycled, nothing goes in without first spending a month in quarantine!
<<Very good to hear my friend!>>
My decision to use uncured rock and sand came from a desire to create a Fiji biotope with the maximum diversity of organisms as is possible given the unavoidable losses in shipment.
<<Yes, understood...did the same thing myself.  Be aware the process can/will be nasty/smelly.>>
Some 'nasties' are inevitable, but that's all part of the diversity of life.
<<Most likely in the form of nuisance alga.>>
Questions arise:
<<ok>>
1) Should I wait on adding the Chaeto until the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate cycle has stabilized?
<<Not at all.>>
2) Should I use the tank lights while curing or keep it dim in there?  The Chaeto in the 'fuge will definitely need light, but what about the display tank ?
<<Keeping the display dark while curing the rock is fine...even desirable.>>
3) Once the water has cycled I want to add a 'pod collection from IPSF to the main tank and assume they will spread spontaneously to the refugium and begin happily making more ‘pods in the Chaeto shelter...is this a realistic approach?
<<It is, though I would do the reverse...add the culture to the refugium and let them spread to the display as the 'fuge is where your base population will need to establish.  Although, since you will be leaving all fishless for some months this point may be moot.>>
I'm planning on nothing but inverts in the system for the first 3-4 months to get the ecology firmly established before adding hungry predators.
<<All good.  But be aware, the "inverts" will be as predacious as any fish.>>
Lastly:
4) IPSF seem to like Ulva algae to promote 'pod replication...is it
compatible with Chaeto or will allelopathy wars break out in the system ?
<<Best to use a single specie of macro algae, like everything else you put in this tank, the alga too will compete for space.>>
The completed biotope will have Fungia (sp), Zoanthus (sp) and Briareum (sp) for corals, Lysmata wurdemanni and Lysmata amboinensis with Calcinus elegans inverts, maybe a Linckia laevigata or Astropecten polycanthus sea stars (not sure about these) and finally
Pterosynchiropus splendidus, Sphaeramia nematoptera and Pseudocheilinus hexataenia for the 'fishies' SWMBO wants to see swimming around.
<<My wife likes the fishies best too.  Okay, a few comments... The shrimp and especially the hermits will be hard on any emerging life on your live rock, and I'm not even sure those hermits fall in to the broad category of "reef safe".  As for the stars, I would replace the Linckia specie with a Fromia specie...much easier to keep/more appropriate for captivity...and "don't" get the sand sifting star...will decimate the biota in your sand bed in short order.  Now to the fish...the tank will not be ready/mature enough for the mandarin for a year or more...the Pajama Cardinals are an excellent choice and perfect for the selected biotope, as is the sixline wrasse, but be aware the latter will become the terror of the tank and will make it very difficult to add similarly sized/shaped fish down the line.>>
I think she will be surprised that the display tank will only have 4-6 fish!
<<Mmm...look in to Siganus uspi (Fiji Foxface)...is endemic to Fiji, will grow to about 9" thus making a very nice "centerpiece" fish, and if anything like mine, will be very peaceful/well behaved.  Some consider the Foxface to be inappropriate for reef tanks, but I consider it worth the risk and haven't regretted my decision for a moment.>>
Still trying to track down the right herbivorous snails from Fiji, just need to do more research.
<<Wouldn't bother...just get whatever is easily/commonly available (likely from the Atlantic I know, but of small matter.).  I'm partial to Cerith and Nassarius snails for help with detritus.  I consider herbivorous snails a waste of money, and you will find the Astrea specie to be little bulldozers knocking all your corals out of place.>>
Thanks again to the crew at WWM for hosting such a great resource, along with all the 'virtual' hand-holding.  I appreciate your assistance, along with your sage advice.
John
<<I look forward to hearing of your progress.  EricR>>

Plankton generation vs. Organics 9/2/05
Hi Bob, I'm in the planning stage of a 6'X2'X2' SPS tank. I keep changing my mind after reading the "LATEST" information. So this tank keeps getting put off. I am going to make a decision this week and that's it. I hope you can help me out and I thank you in advance.  <Please don't get hung up on whatever the latest rage is.  As you have already seen, something new will come along tomorrow.  In most cases, the minor pros and cons of your choices are insignificant compared to good general husbandry.>
My goal is to maximize coral coloration and growth. These are my options:
1. Use 6 " of sugar fine sand in the display and 6 " of sand in the fuge( 4'x2'x2'). Also, add Chaeto. to this fuge to enhance plankton production.
2. Use the ZEOvit system to provide no organics. I have read about the greater coloration using this BB system but I have never seen a tank.
3. I don't know if it is possible but, could I use the ZEOvit system with a remote DSB.
<All of these options have their benefits.  The ZEOvit system will not result in "no organics", in fact the system is targeted at minimizing phosphate and inorganic nitrogenous wastes.  There is no reason that I can think of not to combine the ZEOvit system with a refugium.  I would consider this the best of all worlds... all of the benefits of ZEOvit (if you believe in them and can afford it) combined with the plankton generation of a refugium.>
Bob, I'm not trying to rush into any important decisions but, this tank will never get started if I keep reading the latest articles.  Thank you. Sal  <I would compare this situation to computer shopping.  As soon as you choose a model, a better one will come out tomorrow (or the price of yours will drop).  At some point, you just have to make a move!  Do keep in mind that there are many aquarists succeeding with all kinds of systems... ultimately, they succeed because they have good husbandry habits, not because they do or don't have sand or do or don't use ZEOvit.  Kudos on doing your homework, and good luck!  AdamC.>

What Came First...The Tank Or The Refugium? - 08/28/05
G'day Crew...
<<Howdy!>>
One last question before I start mixing up 300 gallons of seawater.  Right now my Fiji reef biotope is very much a 'virtual aquarium' with an empty 150 gallon display tank mounted over a 45 gallon refugium.
<<Excellent!  I too went the biotope route a couple years ago.  I have a 500 gallon (375g display) Fiji reef biotope.  Is good to hear someone else is doing the 'tope thing.>>
I want to get the system up and matured for a period of 2-3 months before beginning to add coral and fish over the next year or so.
<<Ahh, yes...the system will be all the better for waiting.  The longer the better my friend...shoot for six months or longer fishless.>>
Display tank is 48 x 24 x 30 with a six inch DSB.
<<A great start...>>
The refugium is 30 x 18 x 20 also with a six inch DSB.
<<Very good!>>
Intend to use an AquaC Remora protein skimmer on the back of the refugium along with Chaeto for nutrient export.
<<Mmm, a few things come to mind here.  Firstly, Kudos on the Chaeto!...second, great choice on the skimmer manufacturer, but I think you need to look in to a larger model (AquaC EV180)...third, you don't mention a sump so I'm guessing the 'fuge is serving as both (not ideal, but can be done).  Be sure to section off with the tank return/skimmer compartment first, refugium second, and return pump compartment last.>>
Two 1200 gph circulation pumps in the display <<...?>> with closed-loop return and a 300 gph return pump from the refugium.  Plumbing tests with tap water are scheduled for Labor Day (US holiday on September 5th this year).  Also gives the system a chance to settle into place once the mass of the water is added.
<<A good idea.>>
Given this "tabla rosa" <<Clever...had to look it up but...clever.>> I began pondering the start-up strategies available. Should I:  1) Fill only the refugium first and let it cycle and become and established NNR system before filling the display tank and bringing it into circulation. Or 2) Fill both tanks, and let them both cycle before adding macro algae and critters to the refugium.
Personally I am leaning towards #1 due to a (possibly misplaced) belief that an established refugium would make an ideal source of biota which would automatically inoculate the display tank over a period of a few weeks all by itself.
<<My suggestion is to fill both tanks and go ahead and add the Chaetomorpha (with associated biota) to refugium.  No need (or desire) to keep the DSB in the display waiting.  Additionally...see if you can get a couple cups of sand from fellow reefers to add to/inoculate the sand beds in your tank and refugium.  This way both sand beds are maturing while the tank cycles.>>
My research here at WWM has lead me to believe that the livestock contained in one of the reef clean up / detritivore kits available from the various E-tailers would provide enough biological load to keep the system self sustaining and thusly avoid any feeling of pressure to get the display tank stocked all hurley-burley.
<<agreed>>
One final question; how long would it take for 2-3 pounds of live sand to inoculate and activate the other 150 pounds of sand the biotope will contain?  Having been battling weeds in the yard during this long, hot summer my guess is it will be days / weeks rather than months?
<<Hmm...does happen rather quickly...several weeks to be sure.  All will be ready when the tank is cycled.>>
Thanks again for the great help and advice at WWM !
John
<<A pleasure to assist.  Regards, EricR>>

Reef: Research, Equipment, Research, Circulation, Research - 8/4/5
Hi, my name is Travis.
<Hi Travis, Oh no, they set us up the bomb! ;) - Ali here..>
Let me take a moment to explain my situation. I started out with a small tank and a big Oscar about 6 months ago. The Oscar got moved to a bigger tank, and he outgrew it. Then he moved to another bigger tank, 75 gallons, and he got ich and died. Six months ago when I bought that Oscar, I had never owned a fish. Now all I think about are aquariums. Anyway, after the Oscar died, I decided that Oscars were not my bag. So what do I do after failing at my first attempt?
<Grab several cups of coffee and start researching?>
I decide to go with a reef tank. I know, go ahead and laugh, I'm an idiot. So I've got this 75 gallon tank. I put a layer of crushed shells mixed with aragonite sand in it. I then build up the back with lava rock as a base for my live rock that I'll eventually get. I fill the tank with water and mix in the salt mix, and that's where things get complicated. In my effort to get everything right from the start, I will not buy a single live organism until I know everything is set up exactly perfectly.
<Good, however your current set-up needs to be looked over and altered, continue to browse this site along with www.reefcentral.com for proper reef tank filtration methods and do some reading. I highly, highly recommend you pick up Bob's The Conscientious Marine Aquarist and read, read and read some more.> I had a Marineland 350 Biowheel filter and a Marineland Magnum 350, both of which I was planning to use on this saltwater tank. I was given advice against BioWheels, so I moved that filter to my other freshwater tank, and I returned the Magnum 350 to the store so I could afford more important items. I then bought what I thought was a good protein skimmer, a Prizm Pro Deluxe (a.k.a. garbage). So the skimmer did not do anything other than fill the collection cup with water and leak, so I returned it. Then I read some more, and decide I need a reverse osmosis unit, as my tap water is high in nitrates (about 30 ppm out of the tap). I also have a "wavemaker" unit that is pretty much 3 295gph
powerheads plugged into a power strip designed to alternate them.
<Run your powerheads without the wavemaker. This type of 'wavemaker' decreases circulation within the tank, do a search on this as well...In a nutshell a wavemaker "stops" circulation and then turns it 'on' again. Not a very good method and unfortunately many aquarist fall victim to purchasing these devices. A better option would be to purchase, say for example 4 MaxiJet 1200 powerheads and position one powerhead in each corner of the tank. Position the nozzles so they are all pointing to the center of the tank, causing the currents to collide with each other and essentially creating chaotic and random flow/circulation without 'stopping' the circulation.>
Now you know what I know, and here is where I get to my questions. What do I need to buy to get my system set up. I will help by suggesting things that I think I need, but am not sure about: I have no stand, but the tank is resting on a very sturdy dresser that is the perfect length. Do I need a real stand?
<Here is a picture of one of my old reef aquariums from 4 or 5 years ago... A standard 50 sumpless gallon tank placed on an underwear drawer: http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/8980ProjectReefOLDTANK.jpg
So, no you don't 'need' a stand if you are going sumpless, however if you plan on ever adding a hang on the back overflow box, you will need a standard aquarium stand in order to place your sump underneath.>
I now have no protein skimmer: what is the best model for my size tank?
<Best hang-on skimmer the market now would probably be the AquaC Remora Pro>
I do not have a plenum, sump, or refugium: which would be best to keep my nitrates low?
<3-5" FINE grain sugar sized aragonite substrate (CaribSea Aragamax select) along with high quality live rock, good quality skimmer, lots of circulation and a low fish bioload.>
I plan to only house coral, and coral safe fish/inverts that thrive in average to moderate lighting, because metal halide is out of the question: how many watts do I need? I saw a 90 gallon glass tank with a pine stand/canopy in the paper for $300, is this a good deal? Is there anywhere that can just tell me step by step what I need to do to set up my tank, and what brands of what equipment are good?
<The internet, especially this site and reefcentral.com have a ridiculous amount of valuable information. You need to be assertive and take action - READ, research, then do it again. Don't expect everyone to do it for you.>
I have no local fish stores, so it's all pretty much internet for me, and I never know what or whom to trust. Also, please while answering my queries keep in mind that I would like my tank to look nice and function well, but I would also like to be able to afford to put a fish or two in it sometime this century.
<Good luck Travis, I'm sure that if you continue your research (how many times have I used that word?), purchase the proper equipment and utilize the proper husbandry techniques - your new reef tank will be a long-term success. - Ali>

Re: General advice on a 90 gallon reef tank 7/31/05
Thanks for your reply. The more I read and visit your site the more I am
impressed.
<Indeed... counter to what most westerners seem to believe, there is summat of altruistic behavior... free worthwhile (accurate, significant, meaningful) input here>
In reading your FAQ's. I have a few specific questions myself.
If I have large quantities of LR, 150 lbs, in my 90 gallon tank, why would
I need to add additional LR to replace my "bio balls" or in the new
refugium/sump that I am adding?
<Mmm, you don't... though "the more, the merrier">
Wouldn't the quantity of LR be sufficient
in the main tank?
<Likely so>
Should I remove all of the "bio balls" and replace with
LR?
Why or why not?
<... posted... I would actually (in your circumstances), use a DSB, macroalgae... not have more LR in the sump>
I read that you are against having power heads or
pumps in the main tank. I understand why. If you rely on only the main
return, is this going to be enough and dispersed water flow?
<Depends... on pump and plumbing...>
I personally do not like having these power heads in the main tank but thought it
necessary for effective water flow and distribution.  Could you explain
the difference between a refugium, plenum, and DSB?
<Posted on WWM>
I am taking your advice and I have done the following and would like any
direction you can give me. I have removed most of the "bio balls" from my
trickle filter. I am in the process of building a refugium/sump to be
connected to my existing trickle filter. I can only fit a 10 gallon tank
in the stand with my wet/dry filter. I know that a 10 gallon tank is
small, will/could it significantly add to the filtration of my system?
<Yes... but is of concern (the size/volume), should your power or pump fail... the issue of transit volume overflow...>
My plan is to make this 10 gallon tank a 24 hour lighted sand bed with macro
algae. After reading the great importance you put on a skimmer, I am in
the planning stages of building a new skimmer out of some 6" and 4"
acrylic pipe that I have.
<... do look into "store bought" units... some are well-engineered, constructed...>
Once again thanks for your willingness to help. Any direction or
assistance is greatly appreciated. Dallas
<Keep studying my young friend... you will do fine... learn/remember that this interest/activity is not a "destination" that you "get to" or arrive at, but an ongoing involvement in your awakening/unfolding consciousness, enjoyment. Bob Fenner>

Sump Thoughts... actually just random notions... writing instead of reading... another instance 7/30/05
Dear Crew,
    I currently have a 30 gallon "pre-reef" system.  It contains a rough 55 lbs. of LR, a .5" deep sand bed, A Penguin 350 filter, a SeaClone 100 skimmer and a few various hitch-hiker inverts.  I have been going over loads of info. about sumps and was wondering about a few things.  First, currently I am using a ten gallon tank as a Plenum only sump. (The plenum takes up the entire floor of the sump)  Since I'm worried about overflows I had a question.  If I ran just enough water through the sump to submerge the plenum, roughly 4" from the bottom (I don't have a deep top layer because it is in the sump), and a little higher to be able to pump the water back out, and then drilled a hole in the J-tube and connect that to the air intake of one of the power heads would this be relatively safe?  
<Ah, no>
Or should I buy one of those hang-on continues siphon overflow devices?  
<You could>
If not, do I really need the sump?
<Only you can answer that/this>
I ask because it would be nearly impossible for me to put the sump higher than the main.  I plan on having the following inhabitants:
2 True Percs',
1 Royal Gramma,
Plerogyra sp.,
Wellsophyllia sp.,
Lobophyllia sp.,
Euphyllia Glabrescens,
Fungia Repanda
<Won't all go in such a small, crowded system>
If I do weekly water changes of say 15%, and light feeding would my nitrates be okay?
<Likely not>
If not, any suggestions of what else to do?  Suggestions on something else?   Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,  Andrew
<... help yourself... read re sumps, marine filtration... on WWM. Bob Fenner

So-called "Reef-ready" aquariums 7/30/05
I was just introduced to the term "reef-ready" by Jeff at LifeReef.  
<The term is laughable to many experienced aquarists. I find these aquariums tend to be minimalist yet overpriced. Normally have inadequate water flow capabilities too. Check our WWM archives and those of big message boards like Reef Central for the term/phrase. You will read more details for concerns about such displays>
I understand it is basically corner overflows inside the tank.
<Yep>
Jeff suggested this set-up was fairly industry standard for advanced, professional set-ups.  
<I respectfully disagree. And I have nothing to sell you by the way. Even my books are so low profit as to be no significant motivation. Heehee... unless I really needed a dollar badly <G>>>
I find no mention of reef-ready tanks in Robert's book, The Conscientious Marine Aquarist.  Why not?  
<Check the copyright my friend... things change in time and books pay poorly yet are expensive to produce ;)>
I found some references to reef ready aquariums at  http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-01/gt/index.htm  , which also suggested this was an excellent set-up.  
<OK>
Please comment on whether or not I should be specifying, "reef-ready" when I purchase a 220 gallon cold (50-55 degree) saltwater tank for installation at the Pioneer's Home in Sitka, Alaska.
<Just check the math yourself my friend... a 1" bulkhead can handle 300 gph quietly, 600 gph noisily (unless modified ala Durso or Mega). So... for a 220 gallon aquarium that needs conservatively 10-20X turnover of flow (most reefers do much more than this). 4000pgh adds up to a whole lot of 1" bulkheads which none of the so-called "reef-ready" tanks have. So, that leaves us with a small pump running a weak (and quiet - that’s good) loop of around a 1000 gph through 2-3 standard drain holes in a sump loop. You can do this... but at least need to drill one larger hole for a 2" bulkhead, for example, to tap a pump into the display proper for a closed loop to do the bulk of the water movement needed in this tank. That’s presuming that you are willing to return the water from the 2" line fed CL pump over the top of the aquarium as in a perimeter manifold (see the thread on CL perimeter manifolds stickied at the top of my forum at reefcentral.com for a long list of threads on this topic).>
All specimens will be from local waters and the rock will be as alive as it can be.  
<wow... fascinating. Truly so :)>
Thanks, Kris Calvin
<You do know that it is illegal to collect the cnidarians, yes? Above all... obey the fishing license regulations. Best of luck, Anthony>

New Setups And Calcium - 07/27/05
Having read pages of your dialogue with other reefers, before I ask you anything, I have to thank you for all the stimulating advice/discussion.
<<We're happy to help...>>
I just completed a wooden stand designed to support a 55 gallon tank over a 75 gallon tank.  Over the next month I will set up a refugium in the 55 to gravity feed the 75 main display (80 lbs. of rock) and filter the entire arrangement with a small 20 gallon sump (approximately 24") under the 75.
<<Great!...love the fact you're adding a large (respectively) 'fuge.  Would like to see a larger sump (you'll eventually wish you had the extra space...for media reactors, etc.), but I'm glad you're not doing it the other way around.>>
My original plan was to install a plenum and DSB (6") in the fuge using the method prescribed on your website, and a DSB (5") in the main display with sugar sized aragonite sand.  I am aware of the benefits that can accompany good water circulation, bugs, and detritivore kits in conjunction with a DSB. However, this will be my 1st tank.
<<So glad to see you're doing some research.>>
I have a few questions.  First, is this too much DSB?
<<Not in my opinion.>>
Second, is there anything that I can do while setting up the plenum and DSB in the 'Fuge that might induce the release of more calcium into the system from the aragonite in the substrate?
<<Other than not rinsing the "fines" (these will dissolve more readily) from the sand, no.>>
Or is there any other substance that I could scatter in the DSB substrate that might be naturally dissolved by the normally occurring gasses/processes in the DSB resulting in the release of more calcium?
<<The aragonite sand is already your best option.  Why all this concern with calcium at this stage?  Your tank will have plenty of calcium from the salt mix/aragonite in the system during the cycle period.>>
Third, what method of dosing calcium would you recommend for a beginner with this kind of system?
<<Frequent partial water changes...really!  Until the tank is stocked and you have an idea (through testing) of the demand on your system for calcium, etc., frequent partial water changes will supply what you need.  If your testing determines you need to supplement calcium, the two-part additives work well for small dosages (gets expensive otherwise), else you might consider Kalkwasser or adding a calcium reactor.>>
Thanks again.
<<Regards, Eric R.>>

Starting new tank 7/20/05
Hello crew. <Hi> I have a 90 gallon hexagonal flat back with two built in overflows draining into  a wet/dry system (don't know what brand). the wet/dry system in turn pumps water into my ETSS evolution 500 which is powered by a mag 9.5. outflowing water will enter a 20 gallon tank, which I will be using as a refugium, then water returns back into the tank. I have an estimated 644 watts in powercompact lighting and 110 watt VHO. <Lighting is more than sufficient.> My intent is to have corals. At least one Acropora. maybe about 150# live rock. 2" sand bed. numerous blennies, gobies, Chromis( mainly small fish) and maybe a tang, some sand stirrers. No money for a calcium reactor yet, and I'm kind of iffy on using it. seems complicated. I was just wondering if i can dose calcium supplements manually.<Certainly> Would it be a problem for the corals? <No>, or is a calcium reactor a must have for a reef system. <Not a must have.  Something else to tinker with.> Tank water will be moved by 4 maxi-jet 1200. well, anything else you think I would need to run a reef tank?  <I would not advise a tang in a hex.  They need more swimming room than the hex can provide.  Do a google search on WWM, keyword, "setup" and "corals".  Please capitalize your "I's" and beginning of sentences in the future.  It sure saves our editor time in correcting these before posting. James (Salty Dog)>

Saltwater/Reef temperature 6/2/05
Management of SW reef aquarium temperature in San Diego, CA: I've been reeding WWM, best single hobby information source on the net as far as I can tell!  <Thanks!  Glad you think so.>
Anyway, I'm gearing up to do a SW reef tank, taking lots of baby learning steps about the various techniques to run a healthy tank. I have three related questions.  <Kudos on your patience and looking before you leap!>
What should I expect the natural temperature swings of an otherwise
unregulated tank to be in San Diego?  <This is hard to say, since it depends heavily on your lighting, the temperature that you keep your home, the number of submersible pumps, air movement, etc., as well as how you manage your proposed outdoor sump.>
How do these compare to allowable ranges for SW reef tanks, generally.  <IMO, 80-82 is the ideal range, perhaps a bit lower for fish only and a bit higher for reefs.  Avoiding large sudden swings is the most important goal.>
Finally, the placement of my aquarium would allow me to build an
outdoor sump through a nearby wall, holding approximately 200 gallons.  The appeal is size as well as a convenient way to pop a lid and harvest and dispose of Chaetomorpha.  How concerned should I be that this might turn into a heat exchanger for my aquarium?  Joe Kraska  <An outdoor sump will definitely affect your temperature control strategy, but could be used to your advantage.  In the winter, the sump could be kept covered and well insulated to retain heat and in the summer the insulation and cover could be removed to improve heat dissipation.  Best Regards.  AdamC.>