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FAQs on Sebae Anemone Identification
Related Articles:
Heteractis crispa/Sebae Anemones,
Bubble Tip Anemones,
Anemones, Cnidarians,
Colored/Dyed Anemones, Related
FAQs:
Sebae Anemones 1,
Sebae Anemones 2, Sebae Anemones 3,
Sebae Behavior, Sebae Compatibility,
Sebae Selection, Sebae Systems,
Sebae Feeding, Sebae Disease,
Sebae Reproduction,
Anemones,
Anemones 2,
Caribbean Anemones,
Condylactis,
Aiptasia Anemones, Anemones and
Clownfishes,
Anemone Reproduction,
Anemone Lighting,
Anemone Identification, Anemone
Compatibility,
Anemone Selection,
Anemone Behavior,
Anemone Health,
Anemone Placement, Anemone
Feeding, Heteractis
malu,
Bleached Sebae Anemone and Maroon mis-match | 
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Sick Sebae Anemone, Not enough lighting. – 12/2/07
Dear Crew,
<Hello Sami, Brenda here>
I read a lot of your answers regarding
anemones and the Sebae anemone in particular, but still have 2 questions
regarding my Sebae that I got 2 days ago. It would be great if you could
comment. The first is whether or not I can touch the anemone and turn it
around (it has been upside down since noon today). I read somewhere that
this was a very bad position, as its tentacles cannot breathe this way.
But I also read that one should leave the anemone alone as much as
possible. So, should I turn it around (if so, with my hands and
gloves??). By the way, it is white (and I know I have to get it brown
and healthy now). I fed it mysis shrimp which were sticking on its
tentacles and it did eat. I intend to get Selcon also.
<It sounds
like you have a very sick anemone. How was it acclimated? You can try
turning it over, but it is likely it will just turn it self over again.
I would definitely wear gloves.>
The second question concerns my
lights: I have a 40 gallon breeder tank, so it's not too deep (< 18"). I
have the Coralife Lunar Aqualights (2x96 watts I think). I have the
white ones on from 12:00 to 6pm and the actinic on from 7AM to 8PM, the
lunar lights from 8PM to 7AM. Is this ok?
<2x96 watts of PC lighting
is not enough for this creature.>
FYI, I have 70lbs LR, a wet-dry
trickle filter, an Aqua C protein skimmer. I have two false clowns, a
royal Gramma, a lawnmower blenny and snails/hermit crabs/1 emerald crab,
2 conch snails. I have 2 mushrooms. The tank is 4 months old.
<A 4
month old tank is not old enough. Anemones need established
environments, 6 months to one year.>
Salinity: 1.025
<1.026 is
better.>
temp: 78
Calcium: 420
Alkalinity: 4
<I’m not sure
what method you are using for testing. See here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alkalinity.htm >
Ammonia/Nitrite/Nitrate:
0
Magnesium: 1200.
<I would aim for the 1300 – 1500 range.>
Thank you guys so much!
Regards, Sami
<You’re welcome! Brenda>
Anemone Question (possible H. crispa) 8/22/05
Hello again
Crew, and thank you for your patience. I have a question regarding
an anemone that I would like to add to my tank, mainly with regards
to lighting. This particular individual is a Heteractis crispa or
malu, and is a pale white/gold with purple tips to his
tentacles. Our LFS recently acquired him, and will hold him for
another 2 weeks for us. <With a decent reference, H. Crispa and H.
Malu should be fairly easy to distinguish. I am guessing this is
probably H. Crispa because it is more common and very prone to
bleaching (which this one sounds like it is). H. Crispa is fairly
hardy (by anemone standards) if a healthy specimen is acquired and
is successfully acclimated. Bleached specimens often fail to
survive. Observe this one for evidence that it is repopulating
zooxanthellae before buying. Healthy specimens aren't always
beautifully colored, but they should not be white, pale or "washed
out" looking.>
I have a 75 gallon tank that is 48L x 24H x 18W,
with 62lbs live rock (buying more as I go). I use an Aqua C Remora
Pro with a mag drive 3, and have a sump with carbon and Chemi-pure.
Am: 0 NO2: 0 N03: <3ppm I do a 10 gal water change every two
weeks. Sounds good. pH, Alkalinity and Calcium should all be
maintained in their normal ranges and salinity should be 1.025-1.026
for anemones.>
Lighting is: 2 65 watt PC 10,000K and 2 65 watt
PC Actinic. These are suspended 3" above the water, no cover
glass. Will this be enough light if the anemone is placed in the
top half or third of the tank, or should I invest in a MH bulb? I
have seen the clip-on halides, are these effective? I plan to
quarantine the anemone for 4 weeks also, after 2 more weeks at the
LFS. This will be in a 15gal tank, would a clip on MH work here
also?
<I would suggest at least 50% more light (double would be
better). You could accomplish this with more PC's or a MH. I am
not sure what you mean by clip-on MH, but most fixtures offered for
the aquarium trade are suitable.>
As to the general health of
the anemone, I'm not sure if it is bleached, or just a pale
specimen. I am going to look more closely in the morning, would it
be helpful to you if I sent a picture to get your opinion? Thank
you for your excellent site, and all of your help. Benjamin
Kratchmer <Pictures are always beneficial, but you have presented a
very classic situation. H. crispa is commonly imported, more often
than not they are bleached, and occasionally dyed (Bright yellow is
not a natural color for H. Crispa and a sure tip off that the animal
has been dyed!). If after two weeks, this anemone starts developing
a richer cream or green color, is expanding well and shows no signs
of physical injury, it is probably a safe bed. Be sure to feed it
small bits of meaty foods every few days, especially as it
recovers. Best Regards. AdamC.> |  
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Anemone Question (possible H. Crispa) part2 8/29/05
Sorry, I
didn't get the photos on that one....oops.
<No worries. Does
look like H. Crispa. It is definitely bleached, but looks to be in
otherwise good health. Feed small a couple of small pieces (the
size of a marble or so) of food twice a week until it
recovers. Best Regards. AdamC.> |
Anemone
Conundrum, lack of knowledge
Hi Gang,
<Hello>
First, let
me describe my setup. I've got a 125G SPS tank with about 9 watts per
gallon of 20K MH and actinic PCs. I am collecting the rarest frags I can
get, making it somewhat of a collector's tank.
<Okay>
The reason
for the email is that a lady has stolen my heart, and she is a beautiful
bright yellow sebae anemone.
<Mmm, she's a phony... a dyed animal>
They call her the 'flaming sun' sebae. I have heard conflicting reports
of anemones stinging SPS corals, and LPS for that matter. On the other
hand, I've seen lots of successful reefs with a mixture of SPS, LPS, and
an anemone or two.
Thoughts on adding a sebae in particular, or is
their a better choice?
Thanks,
Brandon Wilson
<Please see
here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/coloredanemones.htm
and the other
archived materials on Heteractis crispa/Sebae anemones... And don't
perpetuate the practice by endorsing it (buying such doomed animals).
Bob Fenner>
HELP!! Yellow <Dyed> Sebae Anemone
James,
Okay, I understand the feeding issue. But I was wondering if there IS a
such thing as a yellow sebae? <I've heard of them> Like I said his foot
is yellow too. <<No... this is a dyed specimen... RMF>>
I put him in
a 3 gallon bowl with bubbler, live rock (which he attached
to right
away) and sand. <He will not be with you very long in a three gallon
bowl. They need much larger quarters and plenty of moving water and
intense lighting to survive.> I put him in the sun in my daughters room
and when we got home last night he looked a lot happier. This morning
her room was chilly and the water was 76, so we currently have him back
in
the sun on the patio with a thermometer to watch the temp. I
noticed a clear slime that is coming out of his pursed little mouth (not
gaping like yesterday) I have a gallon of fresh salt water to swap out
when he is done "sliming". What is that? <Please do a google search on
the Wet Web, keyword "sebae anemones". You should know what their
requirements are.>
Also, in an unrelated question, what else do
spotted snake eels eat besides ghost shrimp? He will eat out of my
hand, but does not like
Mysis or brine soaked in Zoë. <Read here. http://search.hp.netscape.com/hp/boomframe.jsp?query=Spotted+Snake+eel&page=1&offset=1&result_url=redir%3Fsrc%3Dwebsearch%26requestId%3D3ea67cb9c10fc109%26clickedItemRank%3D9%26userQuery%3DSpotted%2BSnake%2Beel%26clickedItemURN%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.wetwebmedia.com%252Fophichthidae.htm%26invocationType%3D-%26fromPage%3DNSISPTop%26amp%3BampTest%3D1&remove_url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.wetwebmedia.com%2Fophichthidae.htm
>
Also, I tripped across a blurb about not having anemones with
coral?? <It's not a good idea but people do it.>
I have a
peppermint and 1 zoo, and 1 Ricordea mushroom (who will NOT
attached
to anything to save its life! Dumb Mush!)<Not unusual>
Thanks,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Carrie :)
PS; Is indirect
or direct sunlight better for the sebae? And for how
long? <10-12
hours direct>
Sebae Anemone
Let me start by saying that your site is the
best site I have seen for aquarium junkies such as myself and I
thank you for that.
<Thank you, WE all owe it to Bob>
This is
the anemone I purchased at the LFS. I think it is a sebae but not
for sure, I sent along two different pictures to show what it looked
like when I got it and what it looks like now. <Only one came
through>
<Judging by the one picture I got to open I would
say you're correct, this is a sebae.>
It seems to be doing fine
and is turning a light brown which I read is a good thing.
<Yes
it is gaining zooxanthellae algae which are photosynthetic and help
to feed the anemone.>
It seems to turn darker brown at times but
stays a lighter brown or tan most of the time.
<This is normal
and is fine.>
I have been feeding it small silver sides. I
recently asked another LFS what else I can feed it and they told me
to feed DT's Phytoplankton and give a couple drops of Coralife's
Invertebrate Target Food every other day. My question is that when I
feed the target food the anemone opens its mouth real wide and in
the area where I place the drops the tentacles seem to shrink up and
turn dark purple, they only do that for a few seconds and then
return to normal. Does that seem right...
<I am not sure, as I
have not used this product. The anemone needs fine meaty foods like
silversides and maybe some shrimp or other meaty foods that are
finely diced or in frozen cube form, let them break apart in a bowl
for the frozen cubes then use a turkey baster, or use a powerhead on
low and put the cube on the intake port and as it break up it will
blow out near the anemone and the current will get it there.>
...or does the anemone not like the target food? My other question
is if I feed the phytoplankton is that enough to support the anemone
or do I still need to feed silver side etc...?
<Feed the
silversides every 3-4 days or at least weekly, and you don't need
the phytoplankton. Anemones need meaty foods to survive.>
Thanks
in advance for the help...
Mike
<No Problem. Justin (Jager)> | 
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Anemone ID
I think it is a Sebae but my brother thinks its a
magnificent? Thank you!
<Picture is very out of focus for accurate
ID but it looks like it may be a Heteractis crispa, same family the
Sebae Anemone belongs to. James (Salty Dog)><<Actually, not family...
the Sebae IS the same species... this is one common name for H. crispa.
See... on WWM. RMF>> | 
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Anemone ?
What is the name of this Anemone what the best thing
to do to keep it healthy. this is not my pic I tuck it of the internet
it did not give the name but it is what I have in my 55 gal tank I am a
beginner. in need of knowledge.
<It appears to be a Heteractis
crispa, what in the trade is sold as a "sebae anemone". Please see here
re:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
and the linked files (at top, in blue) beyond.
Bob Fenner>
Thank
you for you time .
Steven | 
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Anemone of some kind? 12/3/03
I have sent you questions recently
about ich. I have moved all fish to the QT tank as per your
recommendations. The fish are fine by the way.
<very good to hear>
Quite a challenge to get them though, all the live rock had to be
removed. The corals had to be placed at the bottom of the tank to do
this though. I damaged my open brain coral. I am not sure how I did
it. I noticed a small tear in the outer parts of the fleshy parts of it
(not good) to say the least. I have not had much luck with restoring
damaged corals back to good health.
< largely a matter of good
water flow... keep this coral on the sand bottom in this case
(natural... never on rock)>
I have been given 4 by my LFS that were
in bad shape. They all
have perished in my QT. My question is what
I do about the brain coral.
<Hmmm... Trachyphyllia is actually a very
hardy coral. It needs to always be kept on soft substrates... and if fed
3-5 times weekly is one of the most hardy LPS corals. Truly a beginner
species. I suspect lack of feeding here for this very hungry coral>
Obviously I cannot move it to the QT tank as there are copper meds in
it. And to make matters worse my wife bought some kind of anemone
today.
<ughhh! please do not mix anemones with corals. Motile
cnidarians with sessile cnidarians is a recipe for disaster. At best,
keep this anemone in an inline refugium... and not in the display
proper. A separate tank would be better. A 20G by the window might even
be fine>
I have no idea what kind it is. It looks like a carpet of
some kind. Please let me explain what it looks like. It is cream
colored with short stubby tentacles. Each tentacle is tipped with a
blue or purple dot. It is round when it is fully extended (hence why it
looks like it might be a carpet) Rather pretty I must say.
<my
guess from the description is that it is a (commonly) bleached Sebae
anemone (they are white/yellow with purple tips when bleached) and it
needs extra special care to recover to a healthy brown color if it is to
have a prayer of surviving. Shame on your LFS for selling this if
so/true.>
But I have no idea how to take care of it.
<please
look at the picks and descriptions of sebae anemones and others in our
archives and FAQs at wetwebmedia.com. Use the google search tool on the
home page for a fast hit of links>
And I have common anemones in the
tank already.
<ughh... you are killing me <G>>
Chemical warfare
will become a problem.
<ahhh... yes>
I already fight this with
all the corals I have.
<BINGO... you win the hairy kewpie doll>
Really aggressive skimming and frequent water changes have been good so
far for that. 3+ years. Fish are relatively new additions. I added
them about a year and six months ago. Never had ich until this
week. Still not sure were it came from as I quarantined them for about
5 weeks, before I added them.
Thanks yet again for your help. Craig B
<wishing you the best of luck and return to good health for the system.
Anthony> Another Bleached Sebae Anemone :( - 11/22/03
Hi, we recently added an anemone to our tank. We've had it for about 3
days. This morning I looked at the tank and it had a "ball of stuff"
coming out of the middle of it. As the day went on, it kept
coming. I've attached a couple of pictures of it. Any ideas?? Thanks
for you attention!
Erika
<this is a common reality/problem my
friend. Your anemone is dying... and it was not a good candidate from
go. Frankly (not berating you), your merchant should have known not to
sell this animal and you should have known not to buy it (as an educated
consumer... research your livestock's needs before you buy them). This
species of anemone is naturally dark in color (usually brown) with dark
purple tips. Yellow is not a natural color and indicated an animal that
is bleached and/or has been dyed. It will be dead within days. Few live
weeks beyond import. I really don't know why merchants pay for these
things when they are shipped to them. If they stopped paying for them
and if consumers would stop buying them, then the collectors would get
their acts together and stop shipping them unhealthy. Please read more
about anemone health and car in our archives. Be sure to follow the
links at the top of the page too. Best regards, Anthony
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/sebaeanefaqs.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/sebaefaq2.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemonelightngfaqs.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemonelgtgfaq2.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemonehealthfaqs.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemoneselfaqs.htm
Recovering anemone... No such thing as White or Yellow Sebaes!!! 9/30/03
I have a sebae anemone that used to be white with purple tips. Several
months ago I moved the entire tank and now the anemone is always a light
brown color. It looks like it's growing and healthy. I also have 2
clown fish. Is it healthy or should this anemone be white? Thank you,
Erin
<you are very fortunate... the brown color is the recovering
zooxanthellae of a bleached animal. Sadly, most sebae arrive in the
country as white or yellow... and there is no such thing practically in
the wild... they are bleached and likely to die. You have a survivor.
With weekly feeding by you, it will get browner and fare well. Read more
about this phenom in our wetwebmedia.com archives under anemone topics.
Best regards, Anthony> Shedding Some Light On Anemone
Coloration?
I have a Sebae anemone that used to be white with
purple tips. Several months ago I moved the entire tank and now the
anemone is always a light brown color. It looks like it's growing and
healthy. I also have 2 clown fish. Is it healthy or should this anemone
be white? Thank you,
Erin
<It could be a function of the light
that the animal is exposed to. The concentration of zooxanthellae in the
animal's tissues can influence the color. Colors can vary widely in
these animals. Other times, they can be a response to stress. In your
case, because the anemone is feeding and responding normally, I'd think
that it's a response to lighting. Perhaps the animal needs more light.
The zooxanthellae may be concentrated in the tissues as a response to
lower lighting than it is receiving. Try increasing the lighting a bit,
and see how the animal responds. Regards, Scott F>
Anemone Identification and Over skimming?
Hi there,
<Hello>
Great site, Just want help in identifying my anemone.
Since I bought it it has been this colour but I got if from a
display tank at my LFS in Singapore. It was already with a Golden
Maroon Clown and so I bought it too.
<This is a bleached out
Heteractis crispa, most often called a Sebae Anemone in the trade in
the west>
The clownfish has grown but the Anemone has begun to
not open fully and its tentacles are not fully extended. This
started to occur after I bought a much larger skimmer. Is it
related?
<Not likely. Take a read over the Anemone FAQs on
WetWebMedia.com... very common for bleached out (lacking
endosymbiotic zooxanthellae due to mishandling, being kept w/o
adequate light...) Sebaes to perish slowly>
My green button
polyps and mushrooms are doing fine and I have had them for a year
now. I feed the anemone squid and occasionally target feed it with
Liquifry Marine. Heard its good stuff. Anyway it takes the food and
it seems to open a bit larger then resumes its previous smaller
state.
I have read that it is common for anemones to
occasionally deflate and this is the first time mine has done this
apart from when it was first introduced into my tank. Should I
worry?
<Yes. What you state is so, but in this case, these
specimens rarely "rally", but this is not altogether the case. Some
crispas reincorporate flagellated algae, regain color, health>
My clown is about 2 inches long and it spends the better part of the
day trying to force itself into the Anemone using his snout to pry
it open.
<Yes, likely not adding to the health of the anemone
either>
The anemone was white since the day I saw it but after a
month or so in my tank, the tips became brownish but have since
become white again. Is there a way to aid it in replenishing its
zooxanthellae? Or is this creature on its way out?
<Ahh, I see
you know of the situation already. If your system is otherwise
"healthy" and you have other zooxanthellate animals present, enough
light... maybe>
My pH is 8.2 - 8.3
My temperature is approx
29 Degrees Celsius - Is this too high for softies?
<Not most
that folks keep>
My nitrates are undetectable
Tank is a 15
gallon
<Fifteen gallons? This is quite small... much greater
chances of success, disaster-proofedness with larger volumes>
Regular water changes
New oversized skimmer
My copepods
cannot be seen anymore on the glass or LR
2 fish are doing fine
Clown and fire goby
Turbo snail does his daily rounds.
Lighting is 36 Watts 1 marine white 1 marine blue, both from arcadia
<Your anemone needs much more light, by more than twice>
1
sweeping wave maker
3 stalks of mangroves
<In this 15 gallon
system?>
My 2 shrimp (1 blood, 1 skunk) died while molting,
heads were semi detached - or could be clownfish.
I do regular
weekly water changes ~ 10%
I add calcium, trace elements and
buffer on a weekly basis.
Please help me!
<Mmm, is there a
chance you might be getting a larger system... perhaps to match your
skimmer? You really need this foremost. Bob Fenner> | |  |
Help identifying an anemone
I have been searching the web for
over a week now trying to find some information that will match. I
recently purchased a sebae anemone (Heteractis crispa) from a local
shop, and after getting the critter home, went on a mass information
search. Good quality images have been hard to find, but the anemone I
have looks pretty identical to the one listed at
http://www.marinedepotlive.com/1123874.html.
My trouble is I have
seen similar looking anemone's classified as bubble and sebae.
<The
animal shown is H. crispa, sold in the trade most often as a/the Sebae
Anemone>
On the majority of non shop sites, the Sebaes are shown with
much longer tentacles and darker colors.
<This is indeed what they
look like in the wild... consequent with their collection is (almost
always) a loss of endosymbiotic algae (the source of color)>
Unfortunately, the lack of quality images on the hobby sites, has left
me wondering what exactly I do have. I'm just under a year into this
hobby and this is my first anemone, and I'd really enjoy seeing him
thrive. Thanks for your generosity with your time and knowledge.
<Thank you for writing. Please see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemones.htm
and other Anemone articles,
FAQs posted. I have many images of this species, some bizarrely colored
(by humans) for sale in the hobby. Bob Fenner>
Benji
Re:
Anemone ID
Steven,
It really doesn't look like a sebae. The
purple dot on the tip is the size of a pinhead and very uniform in size.
Wouldn't dying affect that? Craig
<No, generally the dye is only
absorbed by the rest of the tissue and the purple tips are unaffected.
Look through the WWM site. Bob has a ton of pictures there are
comparison to your individual. -Steven Pro>
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