Newbie with a Sebae/Anemones/Systems 9/14/09
Howdy,
<Hello Lauren>
I really like your site, and I appreciate the advice I've been able to gather from reading other FAQs about anemones, but I'm still unsure how to best handle my situation.
<OK>
I'm very new to the marine aquarium world; my tank has been up and running for about 2 months. I didn't know at the time that this was too soon to add an anemone, and acquired a small sebae anemone because I was told it would be adopted by my two False Percula Clownfish. Unfortunately, I've had the anemone for a week now, and it's not looking so great. There are several less-than-optimal conditions of my set up, (that I'm working through subject to budget constraints,) and I'm really only inquiring to see if it's even possible to save my anemone. My biggest fear is that it will die and the ammonia spike will kill my tank. So, here's what I've got- Setup: 29 gallon tank,
<Tank too small for keeping this anemone.>
about 40lbs of live sand, about 30 lbs of live rock with moderate coralline growth, Marine-Glo high output lights, (one the shop said would be high output enough for corals, the other would give it the "blue" color; they said it was standard reef lighting),
<Nonsense, no where near enough light for anemones. What are your "high output" lamps, PC's, T5's?>
Aqueon filter currently using a carbon bag and a polishing pad, Prism protein skimmer for up to 50 gallons. I do a partial twice a week, but this week I've done a small one (about a gallon) every day. I use conditioned tap water, which the local stores (not Petco) agree is as good as distilled but not as good as R/O (I plan on a purification system, but I'm waiting on the cash.) My pH is 8.3, ammonia 0, nitrate 0, nitrite 0 (or at least undetectable.)
Livestock: the Sebae Anemone, two False Percula Clowns, a Yellow Tailed Blue Damsel, a Dottyback, two Watchman Gobies (they seem to be a mated pair,)
<Too many fish for this size tank, a disaster in the making, four small fish at most.>
a Peppermint Shrimp, a Sand-Sifting star, two Nassarius snails, a hermit crab, a margarita snail, an Astrea snail, and a turbo snail. For reference, the turbo snail is about 2.5 inches, and he's the biggest thing in my tank.
I got the sebae from Petco. He was pale, but not white, and more lime green under my lights with purple tips. When he's retracted, he's 1.5 inches all the way around, and when opened he's about 4 inches across. He spends most of his time somewhere in between. When I bought him, and questioned his unhappy look, they told me he just ate (yeah, right.) I put him in an area of less flow in my tank, where he should get great light, but he wouldn't stick. He fell over on his side. So I put him back (like Petco told me to do...) and read online, and tried to feed him (Formula One, mostly, and some mysis shrimp.) He ate and his color improved to a dark tan. For about a day, he was fine. Then he went whitish again, and I've noticed that he colors up when I feed him. However, he falls on his side all the time. I tried different spots in my tank, even moved a flatter rock under the sand for him, but it doesn't matter where I put him; he won't stay. He sticks to me when I position him, and he is sticky, but he won't stay put, and hasn't fully opened since. The false Perculas won't touch him, but they are tank raised and I hear that's normal. His color is back and forth, but mostly he just won't stick.
Is there anything else I can do? I don't know if I should let him roam or if there's something else I can do for him. I feel really bad about acquiring an animal I didn't know enough about. If my set up is impossible for him, I'll try to get a local pet store to take him in.
<Yes, is impossible, and do try and find a home for the anemone and some of your fish before disaster
does strike. These anemones (Heteractis crispa) are difficult to keep for any length of time, even under ideal conditions, and should not be kept with fish other than clownfish, especially in such a small area.>
Thank you so much for any help or advice, and forgive me for being so long-winded.
<Have you also read here?
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/heteraccrispa.htm.
An index to our marine articles/FAQ's can be found here for your future and needed use.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm
James (Salty Dog)>
Lauren

Re Newbie with a Sebae/Anemones/Systems 9/15/09
Thank you so much, James. I would like to a responsible pet owner; I feel I was just mislead about the sebae. I'll find a home for him ASAP.
<It sure sounded like it to me, most dealers I'm acquainted with, won't even stock these types of anemones, special order only. James (Salty Dog)>
Lauren

Help with my anemone Anemone ID/Health     2/18/09 Dear Crew, <Justin> First and foremost what a wonderful site (thank you, thank you, thank you)! There is tons of stuff here that has helped me in the past. Also thank you for taking the time to read this and help me with my problem. <You're welcome.> Let me start at the beginning, I have been wanting to put an anemone in one of my tanks for some time. I started with a 29g reef tank, and all the corals started to out grow it, so I needed an upgrade. Well fortune smiled upon me when I had found a 125g Marineland tank and stand for $500 brand new. <Sounds good.> I knew it wasn't drilled, but for the price tag I couldn't let it slip by. Anyway, after many dollars and many months later it is starting to take shape. As always there is much more that I can do, but for now everything is happy and growing. Now to get to my problem. This last Saturday my wife and I decided to go out for dinner for Valentine's Day. Well I happened to convinced her to head to a pet store near by, just to peruse the saltwater tanks to see if anything new and interesting had happened to pop in (living in Minnesota there are not to many places that one can acquire saltwater livestock, let alone have a vast selection). Well as I moved toward the end of the row, I happened to see this anemone (labeled Sebae...though I can not 100% say, because I am an anemone noob, and perhaps this particular one has suffered enough degradation that, for a novice like me, I couldn't attach a label to it with out help). It was all by itself in a tank with other inverts like snails and cleaner shrimp, only dimly lit by a full spectrum standard fluorescent light (yes I know, these people have no idea what they are doing, and I promptly gave them a crash course in proper anemone care...well as much as I have learned thus far: proper tank stability and water quality, lighting, water flow, etc. Though I feel it has fallen on deaf ears...because what do I know? I don't have my own fish store...some people's mentality). I know I should have probably avoided this particular sale, as I am new to the anemone trade, but in good conscience I could not leave it there to die in those miserable conditions. So I decided to take it home and try to make it as happy as I could in my 125g. Before my decision to purchase, I did notice there was still purple pigment in the tips of the tentacles, so I figured there might be a chance for this lil guy, albeit slim. I was the one who actually removed it from the tank in the store, and I noticed right away it had a very strong grip to the bottom of the tank. This led to a rather lengthy extraction process, as I didn't want to tear any of the tissue and make things worse. I thought perhaps that there might be more hope in this case, as most animals (as I am not an expert by any means) become very weak if they are about to die or are in the process of dying. As an anemone tends to disintegrate, I figured a strong foot is a good thing to start with. <A good sign, yes.> After a long acclimation period (about 3 hrs) I let him float to the bottom and see what happened. Immediately he started to cruise around the rocks and substrate, looking, for what I imagine, would be a perfect perch. After he attached to a piece of live rock at the bottom of the tank, I tried to target feed him mysis shrimp (though I figured it would not be possible due to his previous conditions and just being introduced to a new system, stress and all that, but I though I would try) and of course he didn't take anything. I gave him a couple days to rest and make a new home before I tried to feed him, and see if he still had the amount of strength he had in the store. I was pleasantly surprised, he was quite fastened to the rock. I also noticed he was rather quick to react to my movements near him, snapping closed when I touched or got too close, much more so than in the store, which I also took as a good sign. Now he is readily eating when I target feed, so I am taking that as a good sign as well. <Yes.> I have also noticed at night under the lunar lights he will fully expand giving him a rough circumference of 5", and during the day, it's more like 3" (4x 39w T5 lighting). Could this be a response to feeding and that perhaps he was eating some of the inverts in the tank, and they tend to move more at night? <Once they find a spot to their liking, they will usually stay put unless something changes in the system.> If so I guess I will have to train him to feed during the day, much like my brain coral, so I can enjoy seeing him fully expanded when I am actually awake. Any way, on to my most pressing questions: 1. Is this really a Sebae? The tentacles look a bit off from what I have seen in a Sebae bleached or not. From what I have seen, they are very similar to torch coral tentacles, though I am thinking perhaps it could be a Sebae, and he is just deflated due to his poor health at the moment. Either way it would be nice to have a positive ID. <Sure looks like a Sebae (Heteractis malu) to me.) <<?! Is a Sebae, H. crispa... Badly bleached... RMF>> 2. Given the attached images* and what I have observed so far (in the 4 days I have had him) do you think he has a chance of survival, or should I cut my losses now (which I would hate to do, but who am I to question the gurus)? <Your lighting is not intense enough for keeping a Sebae.> 3. Is there anything else I can do I am missing? I plan on picking up some Selcon as I am going to start giving more vitamin enriched food to my live stock anyway, since I will soon be making my own food using Robert Fenner's formula from his book: The Conscientious Marine Aquarist. For the time being I am just going to leave him to his own vices, and continue to target feed every other day, unless you think it might be overkill, or unhealthy. <Justin, these anemones are difficult to keep for any length of time, even under ideal conditions. This animal will die in your tank and will cause problems if gone unnoticed. Do read here and related articles/FAQ's. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm> Sorry for this being long winded, I just wanted to give you as many details as I can in the hopes it would help. I didn't want to make this a "What is wrong with my anemone? Pic included" mail where there no details, just a question. Thanks all! <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Justin *Anemone 1.jpg is the full anemone, trying to capture the look of the tentacles. Anemone 2.jpg you can see how translucent he really is, since you can almost see the rock behind him.

Re: Help With My Anemone, ID f', now sys.  2/19/09 James, Thanks for the information, and the reply. <You're welcome, and I wish you would have replied with the original thread. We answer several queries daily and it can be difficult to remember who's who and who's what.> I had one really quick question - no need to post on the site...unless of course that is the protocol you follow =). <Usually.> So even with individually reflected T5 lighting, using an Icecap 660 ballast, and the Sebae situated right about 7" or so from the surface (he moved), am I still under powered with lighting? <They do require a high lighting level, and by high, I'm talking halides in the 250-400 watt range.> I guess I should have went into more detail on my lighting, sorry about that, I had just gotten home from a 12hr shift, and forgot to add those details. <You should have did that before you bought the anemone. Your anemone is badly bleached and very likely won't be around for long.> As I don't have a PAR meter, I can't give out any numbers, but I was only thinking that in this situation, I may not need MH/HQI. If I am still under I apologize, I guess I will admit my wrong doing, and make sure to not over estimate my hardware again. <Mmm, is always better to put the horse in front of the cart.> Thank you =) On a side note, is it normal for them to avoid flow? He seems to be positioning himself in a more stagnant part of the tank, which I found odd, from what I have been reading. <They prefer moderate water flow.> Thanks again!! <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Justin

New Sebae Anemone, Inadequate Environment, More Research Needed – 3/19/08 Dear WWM Crew, Good day to all. <Hello Shanon, Brenda here!> I am in a bit of a dilemma. I set up my system, through a local dealer, with the intentions of having a bubble tip anemone, a clownfish and other soft (possibly hard) corals. My system was set up with cured LR a 2 in. sand bed (some live sand) and left to cycle, after 1 week 2 blue damsels were placed in the system and my water tested regularly by the LFS. <Get in the habit of testing water parameters yourself.> After 6 weeks I began to add some mushrooms, zoo's and a maroon gl clown. When the system was 4 months old the bubble tip was added which continually wandered the tank. I discussed this with the salesman and he said this is common, that it hasn't found a spot where it is happy, but this should improve. <A 4 month old tank is much too young for an anemone.> It didn't, and I lost the bubble tip after about a month. I had been doing some research on the web, but I figured that it was a problem with that particular specimen. <The E. quadricolor (BTA), is the easiest to keep out of all the hosting anemones. > Several days ago I purchased a Sebae anemone (which seemed, to me, in excellent health), it also is faring poorly, shriveled with mouth gaping open. <Based on the pictures, I do not consider the mouth to be gaping open. Shriveling up is common with acclimation and expelling waste. What are you feeding? > I was told this was an African Sebae Anemone, does this exist?. <No. However, I have seen this term used. It is best to use the scientific name. > I began doing some intense research and have quickly realized that a salt water system is MUCH more complex than I realized. I have gone through each likely problem with the Anemone (through research on your site) and have corrected minor problems. The most significant problem I found is the lighting (and possibly protein skimmer), which I think is extremely low. This dealer is the only local dealer. I traveled to Indianapolis and visited several dealers, <Have you visited Premium Aquatics? See here: http://www.premiumaquatics.com > only to be blessed with more confusion (I was told that actinic lighting is the lighting source I need. <Actinic alone is not adequate.> Another said that PC is the best lighting. <Yikes! > All seemed confused when I mentioned metal halides. <Metal Halide or T-5 with individual reflectors is the best way to go with this anemone. However, a 16 gallon is much too small for an anemone. It will not do well in its current environment.> I have spent much time researching the lighting, it is very complex and time consuming. <Yes. > I fear the Sebae Anemone does not have the time. <I agree. > My system, as I understand it. Please excuse my lack of proper terminology and my ignorance of relevant information.....it is rapidly improving. 16 gallon, <Much too small for an anemone.> 7 months old 15 lb LR 2 in. sand bed Salinity 1.22 <Do you mean 1.022? It needs to be brought up slowly to 1.026. How are you testing this?> Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrates 0 Calcium 540 <High> pH ? <Knowing your pH is very important. > alkalinity ? phosphates .7 <This is too high, see here: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/sept2002/chem.htm > Temp 78 Lighting Current-USA model #1136-18" Nova Extreme 1 18watt T5 HO 10K/ 1 18 watt T5 HO 460nm actinic (no timer, not sure of proper cycle) <This is not enough light for this anemone. Typical light cycle is 10-12 hours (assuming you have appropriate lighting).> Marineland Maxi-Jet 900 power head for water flow <Powerheads do not belong in tanks with anemones.> I have no protein skimmer, I was told with this size tank I could use a standard, hang on filtration (came with tank) .....(please advise if you differ in opinion and what brand, model you recommend). <I personally do not recommend any tank that is an all in one for anemones. A protein skimmer is a very beneficial piece of equipment. > Stock: 1 maroon clownfish, 1 Sebae anemone, 1 Ricordea mushroom, 1 pulsing xenia, 2 zoos, 1 flaming scallop (am now aware of the issues) and some snails and crabs. <Crabs can be predators. If you must keep them, keep no more than 1 per 10 gallons. > All is well (though possibly not exceptional) except the anemone. Please advise on crowding/incompatibility issues. I hope to establish this tank and eventually upgrade to a larger system (possibly turning this tank into a breed specific (seahorse) tank. I would appreciate an answer as to how I can rectify the lighting issue (including brand, model) (as well as other issues I may not be aware of). Are larger wattage bulbs available for this model? <No.> If not, what are my other alternatives? <Returning the anemone until you can provide it with an adequate environment, and lots of research.> Unfortunately, though I absolutely love this hobby, money is an issue. <This is an expensive hobby. > I have already invested much more than originally anticipated, very possibly, on equipment useless to my cause. <Research before you purchase.> I want to pursue this hobby, but possibly with other alternatives. The beauty of the symbiotic relationship between a clown and its host is unsurpassable. <Yes. However, they are considered “difficult” to keep. Many rush into keeping an anemone, resulting in the death of the anemone. > My maroon clown is doing well. I have seen clowns host in a (what I was told was) toad stool. Would the toad stool flourish with my current lighting? <Yes.> Would my maroon gl clown accept it as a host? <Possibly. There is never a guarantee that a clownfish will host in captivity. > Thanks in advance, Shanon <You’re Welcome! > p.s. I do believe the information from the dealer was presented with the absolute best of intentions. <Very possible! I have found that most sales people are not knowledgeable enough in anemone care. > In comparison to the other dealers I visited, I would rank my local dealer the highest. I think this is an industry with less than specific standards. I am still left, at this moment, with this unsettling issue. <Return the anemone and continue researching. Brenda> Re: New Sebae Anemone, Inadequate Environment, More Research Needed – 3/20/08 Hi Brenda, <Hello Shanon!> Thank you for your response! <You’re welcome!> I'm sad to hear my tank is too small for the anemone. My LFS has a tank that is yet smaller (maybe 10-12 gallon) which has a large bubble tip and a maroon clown. <Minimum tank size recommendation for this fish is 30 gallons.> The bubble tip appears healthy. <It won’t stay healthy long term and this is a poor representation of how to care for these animals.> Will you please tell me the reasons why the anemone requires a larger tank (not to question your knowledge, but for my understanding) and what size tank would be suitable? <Anemones need pristine water conditions. The chances of this happening in a 16 gallon tank are slim. With a larger volume of water, the water quality decreases at a slower rate. Add the fact that you don’t have a protein skimmer, the chances of survival have decreased even more. Ammonia is extremely toxic to anemones. When an anemone dies in a tank, it pollutes the water quickly. A dead anemone can wipe out even a much larger system. In a 16 gallon system, you will likely end up with nothing. Anemones also grow quickly. They can reach 18” or more. When they have outgrown their space, they move to find a more suitable place. There isn’t going to be any space available to move to in your current system. This will cause stress on the anemone. Stress causes death. I recommend 40 – 50 gallons of water volume, or more, for anyone new to keeping anemones. I also recommend the tank be an established environment.> I am feeding krill to the anemone twice weekly, though he rejects it about an hour later. <Try smaller pieces until you can find the anemone a new home (1/8” sized portions).> I also feed Marine Snow twice weekly and Mysis shrimp every other day for the clown fish. <Mysis shrimp is also a good choice for the anemone. Marine Snow is useless for anemones. Anemones need raw meaty foods, no exceptions here.> I did mean salinity 1.022. <This is much too low for anemones; 1.026 is best.> I test it with a hydrometer (is this adequate?). <I don’t recommend using hydrometers. A refractometer is more accurate.> The hydrometer says that 1.026 is out of the safe range. <1.026 is closer to normal salinity of the ocean.> I guess I need a lot more information to understand how the system works. <Keep researching. You will find many answers to your questions here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm also read through all the Related FAQs at the top of the above link.> If not power heads then what should be used for water flow? <Pumps need to be outside of the main display. I recommend a sump/refugium. Either will add more water volume. A refugium will allow you to grow macro algae. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nutrientcontrol.htm > I thought I needed the hermit crabs to clean the tank and keep nitrates down, is that wrong? <It is not “wrong”. However it is not the best option in such a small tank. I do keep hermit crabs. However mine are kept in the refugium. crabs are opportunistic feeders. They are known to kill small sleeping fish, eat polyps, snails, and bother anemones. > I believe the toad stool is the way to go for now. I would still like optimum lighting. I have not been able to find better lighting to fit my 18 inch tank width. Do you have a suggestion? <Check with the manufacturer or the place you purchased the set up to see if they offer a lighting upgrade. However, be careful that you don’t add too much that you have heat issues.> Thank you for the info on the chemistry. <You’re welcome!> I will start doing my own tests immediately. <Great!> I will be sad to see the anemone go but I think the toad stool is a good solution until I get a better understanding of my system and upgrade to a larger tank. <Indeed.> Best regards, Shanon <Good luck to you Shanon! Brenda>

Sebae Anemone, Lack of Lighting – 3/5/08
Hi Crew,
<Hi Ashley, Brenda here!>
I recently purchased a small Sebae anemone for my 55 gallon tank. In this tank I have 2 false Percula clownfish, 2 Peppermint shrimp, 2 Scooter blennies, and a number of snails and hermit crabs.
<Crabs can become predators to anemones.>
I have 2 Emperor filters going and a 40 watt 48" light and a 65 watt 24" light.
<I strongly recommend a protein skimmer in place of the Emperor filters, especially when keeping anemones.>
The worker of the fish store said this should be enough lighting for the anemone.
<This is not even close to being enough lighting for this anemone.>
The clownfish are still very timid and have only explored it a bit and nothing else in the tank gets near it. The levels are as follows: specific gravity - 1.024,
<Needs to be 1.026>
pH - 8.2, ammonia and nitrite - 0, KH - around 7, nitrate - 20ppm,
<Nitrates need to be zero.>
and temp is generally around 80 degrees. It has only been a couple of days and for the most part it seems fine but a bunch of its tentacles shrink sometimes during the day, although at night when the lights are off it seems to extend more fully. It's nestled in the sand but I'm not sure if it's fully rooted. It is the occasions when the tentacles get small that worry me. Is this normal behavior or does it need more lighting (is yes, how much).
<Anemones do occasionally shrink to exchange water and to expel waste. However, this animal does need a lot more lighting. I recommend two 175 watt (minimum) metal halide or as many 54 watt T-5 bulbs (with individual reflectors) that you can get over the tank.>
Thanks,
Ashley

Sick Sebae Anemone, Not enough lighting. – 12/2/07
Dear Crew,
<Hello Sami, Brenda here>
I read a lot of your answers regarding anemones and the Sebae anemone in particular, but still have 2 questions regarding my Sebae that I got 2 days ago. It would be great if you could comment. The first is whether or not I can touch the anemone and turn it around (it has been upside down since noon today). I read somewhere that this was a very bad position, as its tentacles cannot breathe this way. But I also read that one should leave the anemone alone as much as possible. So, should I turn it around (if so, with my hands and gloves??). By the way, it is white (and I know I have to get it brown and healthy now). I fed it mysis shrimp which were sticking on its tentacles and it did eat. I intend to get Selcon also.
<It sounds like you have a very sick anemone. How was it acclimated? You can try turning it over, but it is likely it will just turn it self over again. I would definitely wear gloves.>
The second question concerns my lights: I have a 40 gallon breeder tank, so it's not too deep (< 18"). I have the Coralife Lunar Aqualights (2x96 watts I think). I have the white ones on from 12:00 to 6pm and the actinic on from 7AM to 8PM, the lunar lights from 8PM to 7AM. Is this ok?
<2x96 watts of PC lighting is not enough for this creature.>
FYI, I have 70lbs LR, a wet-dry trickle filter, an Aqua C protein skimmer. I have two false clowns, a royal Gramma, a lawnmower blenny and snails/hermit crabs/1 emerald crab, 2 conch snails. I have 2 mushrooms. The tank is 4 months old.
<A 4 month old tank is not old enough. Anemones need established environments, 6 months to one year.>
Salinity: 1.025
<1.026 is better.>
temp: 78
Calcium: 420
Alkalinity: 4
<I’m not sure what method you are using for testing. See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alkalinity.htm >
Ammonia/Nitrite/Nitrate: 0
Magnesium: 1200.
<I would aim for the 1300 – 1500 range.>
Thank you guys so much!
Regards, Sami
<You’re welcome! Brenda>

Re: Sick Sebae Anemone, Not enough lighting. – 12/4/07
Thank you for your comments below, Brenda.
<You’re Welcome!>
I turned the anemone around and fed it (it did eat, at least)... I will try and nurture it back to health. Hopefully it works..
How much lighting would be needed in your view? (I read that 4 watt per gallon, so in my case 160 watt should be sufficient, and thus thought that 2x96 watt was all right)...?
<This is only a rule of thumb, and not a good one in my opinion. You also have to consider that 96 of the watts that you have are actinic which are more cosmetic than beneficial compared to the daylight bulb. See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/actinicfaqs.htm and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/heteraccrispa.htm If it were me, I would go with a 2x175W watt metal halide or a 6x39W T-5 setup with individual reflectors.>
Kind regards, Samira
<Good luck to you! Brenda>

Light for Sebae 11/22/07
I haven’t found anything in the FAQs specifically about a question I have.
Is 250 watt metal halide 14k too much for a 30 gallon?
<Depends on what you want to keep. There is a good chance you will need a chiller.>
Is it too much for a Sebae?
<The light would be fine, but these are difficult to keep. You will need a larger, well established tank. Thirty gallons is just too small. For more information please read
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/heteraccrispa.htm
Best wishes, Scott V.>

Sebae Anemone in Very Poor Health, More Information Needed – REFER! 11/16/07 <Hello Bryan, Brenda here> I recently added a Sebae anemone to my tank, I have had them before. <What happened that you do not have them anymore?><<Bingo>> Anyway since adding it, it keeps flipping over upside down, I have gently replaced it right side up and it opens nicely and then a few hours later it is upside down again. When I turn it over the middle is got like a black bubbly mass. <Yes, I see this, and it is not good news. Based on the amount of algae you have on the rock, either the system is relatively new, or your husbandry skills are poor. Either case is not suitable for an anemone.> I should add that I have a tomato clown that enjoys this guy and will pick out the black mass bit by bit and the anemone opens nicely again. <At this time, a clownfish should not be anywhere near this anemone. It will only cause more stress. A tomato clown can be quite abusive. Yes the clownfish loves it, but the anemone does not (at this time). As far as it opening and closing, it is expelling waste, not a good sign on a regular basis.> I have never seen this before I have attached a picture. The water quality and temp. is perfect. <Perfect means nothing to me. What is perfect for one marine species is not always perfect for anemones. I need actual numbers here. I also need to know your tank size, what test kits you are using, size of tank, live stock list, when and how you received the anemone, was it shipped, was it at a LFS, where did they get it, etc.> and the lighting I use is Zoo Med. I have an Ocean sun 10,000k and a Coral Sun Actinic 420. I was hoping you could shed some light on what is going on with it. <I am not familiar with this lighting. A quick search on the net brings up many reptile sites. Please provide a link to your exact lighting system with your total watts.> Thanks Bryan <You’re welcome! Brenda>

torn foot, bleached...

Heteractis Crispa Anemone... sel., comp., sys.
Hi crew,
<François-Étienne>
I've read a lot of information on your site about the Sebae anemone, Heteractis Crispa and I was considering buying one by the end of this summer. Before I do so, I wanted to ask you some questions.
<Please do>
I have a 110g aquarium. 4 foot long and 30 inches high. I started this tank in November 2005. I have 150 lbs of live rock and a DSB made of aragonite on the bottom. I keep several types of corals (mostly soft corals) but some LPS and a Montipora. I do have a pretty high bioload (fish) but I have really good water quality and I never had any problems with it. For the fish, I have a pair of true percula clowns that could host the anemone. For the flow, I have 4 powerheads (each of them is safe for the anemone; they are well protected). They are Hagen powerheads. I know these aren't really great but they've done a good for me since now.
<Actually, their powerheads are one of Hagen's best product lines IMO>
I'll change for better powerheads in the future :) . For the light issue, I have Geissmann MH lighting. I have two 150 watts bulbs + two 54 watts actinics. The MH are placed at about 8 inches from the surface of the water. I have a Deltec skimmer: mc 500. I don't have a sump.
I wanted to know:
Do you think my lighting is sufficient for long term survival of Heteractis Crispa?
<Mmm, yes... IF the specimen can be placed more or less directly under one of the MHs>
Does this anemone usually sits on the sand? Could it be on the rocks?
<Is found buried in sediment... not likely to be happy on rock...>
I was planning to place it in the upper part of the tank. On a rock where there would be some indirect flow toward the anemone. If it only sits on the sand than would it be ok even if the tank is 30 inches high ( btw, I'm keeping a healthy Crocea clam on the bottom since one year) ?
<Mmm, this animal will find its own spot in time...>
I was wondering about the comparison between H. magnifica and H. crispa. Do these anemones require the same amount of light?
<No... the Magnificent requires much more>
Which of them fares best in captivity?
<The Sebae by far>
Is there a major difference between H. magnifica and H. crispa?
<Huge differences... see WWM re... the former is the second largest anemone (after Stichodactyla mertensii) used in the trade and by Amphiprionines... up to a meter across...>
Is the survivability rate of Sebae anemone much higher of the one of the Magnificent sea anemone? Just wondering...
<Again, yes. The only superior aquarium species IMO is the Bubbletip/Entacmaea... see WWM re...>
I also wanted to tell you about this: I have in my tank 3 little ( half an inch; really little) bleached bubble anemone. Could there be a chemical war between the H. crispa and the little bubble anemones?
<Mmm, possibly, yes... though in a system of this size, age... I give you good odds...>
The anemones bleached a month ago when I was not at home...
Thanks for reading me,
Have a good day
François-Étienne
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Sebae Anemone Systems 2/8/07
Sorry, there were some grammatical errors in the last, this is an edited one.
Hello,
<Hello Connor>
I have had a Sebae anemone <no caps?> for about 4 days now. He seems like he is doing great sometimes, while others <?> he looks terrible. I started off by feeding it a small hunk of shrimp and it was pleased with that. I tried it again a different day and he didn't respond well, spitting it out. His mouth is wide open now and is very loose and fleshy.
<Doesn't sound good.>
The tentacles have become shorter and more stringy. The tank is around 40 gallons and the surface is around 15" away from the live sand. For lighting I use two 96W compact fluorescent bulbs, one is 10,000k and the other is actinic blue. I was wondering if this is enough as the anemone is currently positioned about 13 inches away from the surface and 17 inches away from the light fixture.
<Should have done some research before buying.  Your lighting isn't sufficient for the Heteractis malu.  Problem also lies in shipping/handling as most do not ship well.  Very important to be sure the anemone looks healthy before purchasing.>
My conditions seem well, they are:
Nitrites: less than .05
Nitrates: Near 0
Ammonia: around .1
<Shouldn't be able to read ammonia at all.>
dKH: 11
pH: 8.1-.8.3
Temp: Currently at 79-80 degrees
Phosphates: 0
Calcium: 300+
For water I use distilled water but I am contemplating switching to RO water or an RO unit. Another possible solution I was think of was changing the actinic bulb with another 10,000k 96W CF bulb. Of course, I am no professional and could be very wrong. I am looking forward to a response and thanks again.
<Do read/learn from this link.  Also read linked files above.  This will give you a very good idea of the requirements/needs necessary for keeping anemones.  Even under the best conditions, most rarely survive more than a year under aquarium conditions.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm   James (Salty Dog)>
-Connor

Re:  Sebae Anemone Systems 2/12/07
 Dear James,
 Thank you for the reply and I have been reading the articles on your website trying to find what I needed. It seems to me that compact fluorescent lighting can be good, but with enough. I have been trying to find what would be enough and I just can't. I also understand that what is enough completely depends on a number of different factors. I would greatly appreciate if you could recommend and upgrade and/or lighting increase from what I already have that would be sufficient for a Sebae Anemone/corals and other anemones of similar light requirements. My tank is around 16" deep, 36" long, and my lighting fixture is around 6" from the surface. I have two 96w compact fluorescent bulbs, one 10,000k and one actinic. In addition to a possible addition of bulbs, would changing from 10,000k to 5,600k be more beneficial?
<No, actually worse.>
I am very thankful for your help already and I realize I am being somewhat of a pain =\.
<Connor, if you plan on adding PC lamps, you need to be around 5 to 6 watts per gallon for this type anemone.  I personally believe anemones do much better under MH/HQI lighting.  If it were me, I'd go with a twin 150 watt HQI system with 12-14K lamps.>
Thanks again,
Connor
P.S. sry for the few mix up emails, I was tired =]
<Know the feeling my friend.  James (Salty Dog)>

Sebae Anemone, Research Idea "The Ripple Effect" MH Shimmer  2/5/07
Hello guys,
<Hi Brandon, Mich again.>
I know that this is the second time that I have written today, but I was reading up on allelopathy at your site when I came across an extensive amount of information on anemones.  I have had a very "happy" Sebae Anemone (Heteractis crispa) for quite a while now.  I read a reply that stated that MH lighting was preferred for them.  I would like to share a bit of information with you all.  I was running a 55 gallon tank with three four foot 110 watt 10k daylight, and one four foot 100 watt actinic 03 on an Icecap 660 ballast. This translates to 440 watts of light or eight watts per gallon.  The H. crispa was meh ooookaaayy, but I could tell that he was not going to make it past oh say a year at the very best.  I bought a 75 gallon from a person that thought that caring for his fish was too much work and not a labor of love.  Oh well his loss right?  
<Right!>
So in the course of placing it I had a bright idea.  Since the tank was bigger, I would transfer my micro reef to it, and create a somewhat bigger micro reef.  I moved my lights, and all of my organisms.  Here is where it gets interesting.  Somewhere in the course of all of this some errant water escaped the tank.  Anyone see where this is going?  It (un-beknownst to me) had dribbled down a cord.  A cord that was connected to the ballast.  The ballast that was not waterproof.  I don't know if any of you believe in God, but I do now.  I turned the lights on, and they did not come on.  So in one of my finest aquatic genius moments, I touched the ballast.  
<Yikes!!!>
I think that I am lucky I am not dead.  
<Glad you're OK.>
Excuse the French, but there is really no other way to say it, I got the holy h-e-double hockey sticks shocked out of me.  
<I'm envisioning your hair going from straight to curly!>
I am kind of glad that I did though.  
<Really?>
This was on a Monday (My Sunday), Tuesday morning I was in the LFS buying a MH retrofit that I had seen for $899 USD with a 20% discount.  Like I said labor of love.  
<Cha-ching!>
I set it up, hooked up all the ballasts, and turned it on (electrocution free, I put the ballasts on the outside this time and drilled some holes, it's ugly but safer.)  
<Safety is the more important issue.>
The MH system has less light wattage, but there is a "ripple effect".  EVERYTHING, fish and all immediately responded.  The H. crispa stopped moving and perked up immediately.  I think that I have a pretty hardy one (it was "thriving", according to them, under PC at the LFS), but I am willing to bet anyone a million dollars that it is not really benefiting from the MH itself, and more from the "ripple effect".  I have been diving off of the coast of Belize, and this looks more natural.  Perhaps this is one of the keys?  
<Perhaps.>
Everything that I have read suggests that most Anemone species thrive under appropriate MH and die off rather quickly under anything else.  Yes I think that a year is quickly for an immortal.  
<?>
I hope that this information is useful, and that it will further someone's research.
<Thank you for sharing!  An interesting observation.>
Thank you all for the wonderful work that you do,
<Welcome! -Mich>
Brandon R. Foster

Stocking Question, Sebae Anemone, Lighting – 1/31/07
Hi crew,
<Hello, Brenda here>
Wonderful answers you guys give. I have a 20g (24"Lx15"H) with 130W PC Odyssea lighting, 10g DIY sump/refuge. My question is; I have two 1" Ocellaris clowns, a 3" lawnmower blenny, a 2" watchman goby, a pistol shrimp and a cleaner shrimp along with a Sebae anemone (currently slowly regaining its brownish/tannish color).  Would the tank be overstocked?
<Yes, even more so without a skimmer.>
Secondly, should I replace one of the bulbs with a 10K daylight bulb?
<In my opinion 130W PC lighting and a 20 gallon with sump is not enough for this anemone.  Changing the bulb to 10K will not be sufficient.>
Thank you so very much crew.
<Your welcome.  Brenda>

Sebae - caught in Power head...    10/6/06
This is my first time writing.  I have looked on your site
<Uhh, obviously not enough... there are many such instances archived on WWM>
and read many areas... but I am hoping you can help reassure me.  My sebae loves to move around...
<Mmm... is this a Heteractis crispa anemone? I assure you it is not "love" that is driving it about>
I came home yesterday - one side of him....tentacles only - were caught in the bottom of my power head.   I unplugged the power head and he slowly moved away from it.  He is shrunk up from the experience, but I had hopes he would make it.   I moved the power head to the front of the tank... away from all rocks etc.   Plugged it back in (like an idiot) and he was caught again..
<...>
but this time it was tentacles and part of his base.   He fell into a crack with the tomato clown and they stayed that way  - until I moved him to a lower rock face up.
<... also covered... best to not move actinarians...>
  He slid off to the bottom of the tank... and moved to a dark area with the clown.. this morning.. he is on the side of a rock, but still shrunken. Normally a brownish red color.. now with white tips...  What do I do?  I hate to give up on him.
<... read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/sebaedisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. BobF, WWM progenitor>

Anemone . . . Outta Control!/Anemone Systems - 08/26/2006
Hi Gang!
<Hello Thomas>
Thanks in advance for answering my question.
<You're welcome.>
Stats first:
24 Aqua Cube
16 lbs LR, 5 lbs LS, 10 lbs crushed substrate
79 degrees. Amon = 0, Nitrite = 0, Nitrates > 20. Calcium ± 300.  
Weekly water changes of 4 gallons. 8 months established.
<Lighting?>
1 Yellow Tail Damsel, 1 Coral Banded Shrimp, 1 Sally Footed <Foot> Crab,  
1 tiny blue crab (I mean TINY) I had a large blue crab, but he jumped ship last week. Contemplating his replacement. 2 Clarkii Clowns, mated pair (that took a long time - she chased him for months, now he lives happily on the top edge of the Anemone <Anemone>) with hosted Sebae Anemone.
My problem: The Anemone has gotten HUGE. It is gigantic - over 18 inches wide! It's in the back of the tank, and it's taking over. It opens up fully during the day and then shrinks at night. I feel as though it's too big for the tank. Is there any thing I can do to it?  
Or should I just be happy it's alive and thriving in an aqua cube and leave it alone?
<You're not going to be happy too much longer.  The 24 gallon cube is much too small for housing anemones, especially this species.   Sebaes can grow up to 1' 8" under ideal aquarium conditions, and, the Sebae Anemone is one of the more difficult anemones to keep in captivity for any length of time.   I suggest you find a better home for this anemone.  Do read here and linked files above.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm>  
Thanks!
<You're welcome.  In future queries, do cap letters that need to be capped and do a spelling/grammar check.  We do not have the time to correct queries before posting.  Thank you,  James (Salty Dog)>
Thomas

Lighting For Anemone- One Challenge Met!   8/19/06
I bought a Sebae Anemone and thought I had strong enough lighting, but after reading on your site that people often don't, I figured I should ask.  I have is: 2-150 10,000k Powerpaq Metal Halide Bulbs, 2-130 Dual Actinic 420nm & 460nm Bulbs. My tank is 90 gallons, and I need to know if I have made a mistake so I can do what is right for the little guy.  Thank you so much for all of your help.-Emily
<Well, Emily, from the lighting standpoint, I think that you're just fine. The lighting that you are using will provide enough energy for the anemone to prosper in this sized aquarium. Now, you need to address the other issues of water quality, food, and flow, and you'll have a beautiful animal that will thrive for years! Keep reading, and good luck with the challenge! Regards, Scott F.>

Sebae Anemone/Health/Systems  - 06/07/2006
Hi there,
I'd just like to start by saying your site is very useful, and has certainly saved me from inadvertently given LFS misinformation. I have a question about what I believe may be an ailing Sebae Anemone. I have a ten gallon nano with about 12lbs of live rock and 20lbs of live sand, Nano-skimmer, carbon/bio filtration, and I change the water 10% every other week. I monitor the levels very closely, but only with test strips. According to the strips the levels are all optimal. It's a fairly well established (4 months) system with several blue hermit crabs and turbo snails, 2 Ocellaris clowns, and a Royal Gramma. I got the Sebae about four days ago, and it immediately moved to a part of the tank with pretty constant but light water flow, and dug its foot in to the sand. Since I got it I have realized (thanks to your site) that the white coloration of the anemone is actually a sign of bleaching (doh!). But at the LFS it was all inflated and actually had a clarkii nesting in it. I went on the fact that the guy at the store said an Ocellaris would probably like a Sebae. I since also found out that there are probably more suitable choices of anemone.
<Believe the LFS gave you more misinformation.  Your tank is too small just for the fish you have in there.>
(lesson learned. Always do research) however, I put the Sebae in. I invested in some invert supplements for the water to give the thing better chances. I have noticed over the last few days that the anemone has a habit of inflating and deflating during the course of the day. It will plume out for about an hour to two hours, then deflate for the same time. I didn't really think much of this at first because I heard they do this to get used to new water. However, I got up today, and its lying sideways on the sand, deflated, with its foot exposed.
There's no sign of it breaking up at all, the foot looks like its not torn or anything like that. There was a problem in the oral area, it looked almost like it had hemorrhoids in its mouth. Today that's gone, and the oral disk is rather smooth. Although on its side the disk is opening and closing slowly, and the foot does seem to me moving somewhat (but extremely slowly.
Is this thing doing its swan song? Or is there a way I can save it?
<I'd see if you can take it back to the store, won't live in your tank.>
I couldn't really find this specific situation in any of the articles.
<You probably won't.  The situation shouldn't exist.>
I appreciate your help, and apologize for writing you a book here. Thanks in advance,
<Chris, you should have researched the Sebae before buying.  You have nowhere near the requirements for keeping one alive.  You do not mention lighting, so I'm assuming you do not meet the needs there either.  Enough light for this anemone would probably heat up that 10 gallon to 100 degrees.  I will post a link for you, too much info on keeping anemones to pen here.  Do read along with related
topics above and you will see how far off you are.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
James (Salty Dog)>
Chris H.

Post-Purchase Sebae Anemone Lighting Questions   2/8/06
I have a 46g tank that has been running for almost a year. I recently bought a Sebae anemone. I currently have 220 watts of lightning (PC, Dual actinic and actinic blue). Would that be enough?
<Ah, the classic "Buy first, ask questions later" method, likely leading to more unintentional animal deaths than anything else. Always, and I mean ALWAYS do your research prior to making ANY purchase, lest you end up in a situation such as yours. Granted, the jury is out on reef aquarium lighting (and likely will always be), but 220 watts of Power Compact lighting on a 46 really isn't sounding good to me at all - *especially* for such a high-light creature as a Sebae Anemone. Assuming the anemone has all of its Zooxanthellae, thrice-weekly feeding of silversides would be recommended to keep the anemone in good health, and, if at all possible, a lighting upgrade may be in order. However, and rater unfortunately, most every sebae anemone offered for retail sale these days is bleached or dyed - if yours is yellow or white, it's going to need some extra TLC on top of all of that - daily feeding would certainly not be out of the question, nor would a lighting upgrade. I'd personally recommend nothing less than Metal halide lighting for any anemone species, Aiptasia/Majanos not included, of course.>
Thanks for all your help.
<Good luck with your new acquisition! Mike G>

Sebae Anemone in Poland   1/18/06
Hello there salty freakzz ;)
<Howdy... hey, aren't you one of us?>
according to my daddy's purchase I've got some questions about it, i mean Heteractis crispa anemone :)
<Okay, a "Sebae" by any other name>
well, the guy is in a great condition (crispa, but daddy's too), whole dark brown with brighter tips, (diameter = 3 in). looks like full of zooxanthellae (dunno how to spell it) so we're both happy of that. Yesterday evening we've introduced it to our tank (200Gal, 23in deep) and placed on the well lighted area in the mid-shallow area. he was, of course, irritated and quite small but i guess it was obvious. after an hour or two, he decided to travel round the tank and jump here and there (looking for shadowed places). unfortunately he felt down between some rocks and stayed there. i thought there was no reason to worry, especially he looked happy and was attached to the rock. the night had came and the waiting till morning started... today, just after lighting up my canopy, i was quite worried because the sebae moved a little, but wasn't attached to the rock. he has been just laying down on the bottom between those rocks. Didn't know what to do, I've took it and placed on the rock above. he was sticky and pumped up. he still looks healthy but ..... unable to find his home :( now he is laying (staying) on the sandbed so I've decided not to touch him for a long time and give him full access wherever he wants to.
<This is often best...>
please tell me is it ok, that he prefers shadowed places than fully light-exposed ?
<Mmm, not likely... just very tired... perhaps unable to "reach" a more ideal spot>
will it change? maybe he's just acclimatizing ?
<Perhaps>
what should i do in order to help him (if he needs any help, of course)? I've already switch off my powerheads :]
<I would move this animal to a "brighter" system (shallower, more light) if you have one>
do you think i should increase my lighting ? maybe adding 1xMarineWHite 54W and 1xMarineBlue 54W would improve things much more?
<Mmm, this is not enough for a 23" deep system>
or maybe adding 1x MH 250W 10'000K would be better option ?
<Ahh! Much better>
does my sebae change color ? for example from deep brown into light green or i don't know, deep brown with brither, pink tips ? or any other variations ?
<Does change... as you'll find by reading on WWM... healthy ones are colored>
my tank:
2x Lysmata amboinensis
1x lo vulpinus
1x zebrasoma flavescens
1x leather coral
205 lbs of live rock (Indonesia)
2x MH 150W 10'000K
1x MH 70W 10'000K (on the other side of the tank, not above the main part of live rock exposition)
1x MH 70W 20'000 (above the sand bed, on the second end of the tank)
1x t5 Marine White 54W
1x t5 Marine Blue 54W
parameter ok:
ca 400
kH 9
ph 8,10
no2/no3/nh4 0
thaaaaaaaaanks you guys, Pete on the reef
(forgive me some grammar mistakes, here in Poland not many of us are even able to read ;))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
<I see, understand... You are understood. Do add the extra lighting... and soon, or move this animal. Bob Fenner>

My new sebae (anemone)
I know that there are many lighting questions already posted but I cannot be sure that I am going to do the right thing and I want to take good care of my animals. 
Tank details: 55 gallon, 80 pounds live sand, 80 lbs live rock, sand-sifting goby, sand sifting star, peppermint shrimp, coral-banded shrimp, 2 urchins, 8 hermit crabs, 12 snails, 2 domino damsels. The urchins, hermits, snails, and damsels are left over from the set-up stage and may be moved to other tanks soon. There are 2 Maxi-jet 600s and a Rio 600 (on timers), and a Remora C skimmer, run by a Rio 1200; plan to start sump this summer. Lighting is 1-96 watt True Actinic 03 and 1-96 watt 10,000KT Daylight Compact Fluorescent. My question regards lighting but feel free too comment on any other obvious issues. I gather from the FAQs that I need to have at least 220 watts. I am pretty sure the Sebae is going to settle near the bottom of the tank so I am thinking of adding an additional 96 watt power compact. Can you give me any advice about the lighting I should get?
<Posted on WWM>
I am limited at this point to something that will fit under my hood, although I may be able to switch to MH in about 6 months.
<Then I would wait on the additional light and go with this in half a year>
The question is, I saw that you suggested this Britelight to someone but I am thinking of adding a 50/50 bulb (half 10K and half actinic). Because of my set-up, my intention is to use Current USA Orbit Compact Fluorescent so I have other bulb choices - 460nm Actinic, 420nm Actinic, 10,000K, 6,700K, etc. So, what will be the best for me to love on my Sebae? 
<No need for actinic... go with the higher/est Kelvin "white" lamp>
Oh yeah, he is about 2 or 3 inches in diameter and yellow, with purple tips.
<... Heteractis crispa are not yellow... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/heteraccrispa.htm 
and here: 
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/coloredanemones.htm  Bob Fenner> 

Appropriate lighting for H. crispa 12/31/04
Hi, I think that the Heteractis crispa hosts the percula clown, I was just wondering what sort of lightening does this anemone need and is it a reasonable easy anemone to keep????  Thanks
<If you have not done so already, please do see the info that Bob linked in his previous reply.  I currently keep A. ocellaris with an E. quadricolor (rose) anemone, and although the association is not natural, they will accept each other in captivity and A. percula is know to as well.  Occasionally, clowns that have been kept for a long time without an anemone are slow to accept an unnatural host or may not do so at all, but this is rare (Mine took about a month).  As for H. crispa, the are a natural host for A. percula, but not A. ocellaris.  They are often sold as the "Sebae anemone" and are often bleached white with pink tips.  Occasionally, they are also dyed bright yellow or pink.  Bleached or dyes specimens are almost always doomed to die.  If you find a healthy specimen (should be tan/brown with an occasional pinkish tone), they may be a good second choice to E. quadricolor for hardiness, although they are at least as demanding of light.  175w MH would be a minimum, with 250w recommended.  Best Regards.  AdamC.

Sebae Anemone part2  3/20/06 beh., dis.
Hello Crew,
Thanks for the quick reply AdamC, just thought I would update you on day 2 of the anemone, I took your advice and put it into a lower light area of the tank, I placed it on a large smooth coral skeleton I had picked up from a fellow reefer a while back for glue frags to. I placed this flat cup like piece in between to rocks in a sorta crevice and placed the anemone on it. This is protecting its foot nicely underneath. It has not attached to the rock but seems to be cradled nicely in place and is swaying from the gentle alternating current.
<<Sounds very good.  Hopefully it will attach soon.  It has been my experience that anemones that have spent an extended amount of time tumbling in the water column in a dealer's tank are often slow to attach when placed in an aquarium.>>
Its tentacles look thick and full but its mouth is still open slightly. the foot looks to be pinched in to a ball shape atm. Color wise its is more off white today, not yellow , not tan/brown  more tan white( good or bad?). I am hoping that the foot being pinched in is a good
sign as I can not see the damage as well as I could last night. Thanks Again for your advice and help. Cheers, Drew
<<All sounds OK here as well.  A slightly open mouth is OK... a seriously everted one is bad. Based on the color, it sounds like your anemone has some zooxanthellae left, so this is good.  The "pinched in" foot may be a reaction to protect the damaged area or just a result of being unattached.  The real hope is that the foot will extend naturally and take hold of the substrate.  Best Regards.  AdamC.>>

Anemone questions? and other questions?
Hello WWM crew,
About a week ago I bought a green tip sebae anemone for my 20 gallon reef. 
<and what of the body color? brown/green? Hopefully not light in color or white>
It looks pretty good now but I was reading all the problems people have with them on your site. 
<alas yes>
Well is my lighting too much for this anemone? I'm the one with the 175 watt metal halide on the 20 gallon? 
<most anemones need rather bright light. This may not in fact be too much if the lamp is suspended appropriately between 9-18". Did you also acclimate it slowly?>
Do you have to feed them with this amount of light if so what should I feed and how many times a week?
<yes... they still must be fed. Even with reef quality light, the animal is inherently not autotrophic. It must feed organismally for growth and reproduction at the very least we believe. I'd recommend 3-5 times weekly with very fine minced meats of marine origin>
My water is good nitrites and ammonia 0 my nitrates go between 0 and 10 at the highest ph is 8.1-8.3. 
<a little higher would be nice... do look closer at your alkalinity levels. You may need to be using SeaBuffer more>
My filtration is a Prizm skimmer a Skilter 400 and 2 power heads. 
<no filtration here... you do have live rock, live sand?>
I have 3 little fish, 2 captive bred perculas and an orange-spot prawn goby.  I was wanting to know if I could add another small fish or 2?
<if small and peaceful yes, my friend>
Would I be able to add another anemone since I don't have the right clowns for this one? 
<under no circumstance... the tank is ultimately not even big enough for this one species. Two species in a tank this small is a death wish. I'm quite sure of it. Mixing anemone species in any sized aquarium is dangerous... I never recommend it... it is one of the main reasons why many anemones rarely live past 2 years captive>
For corals I have 2 colts, 1 medium leather and 2 small ones and some mushrooms. 
<wow... you will need to propagate/thin or remove these soon due to fast growth>
What other water quality should I check because I'm adding calcium but there's still a lot of red and brown algae?
<you have the nuisance algae because the skimmer you have unfortunately seems to have a well deserved terrible reputation. I would suggest a better skimmer like an Aqua C Remora. In the meantime... change water and carbon/Polyfilters frequently to compensate for the lack of nutrient export to starve out the bad algae. Also do test for Calcium and Alkalinity to keep stable levels. best regards, Anthony>

Re: Anemone questions? and other questions?
hello,
Yes the anemone is white with green on the tips. Is it going to die if it is white but its been white since it came into the store. 
<no matter... most are white because most are bleached on import and most will die within the year if not months. There are no white Sebaes. Yellow at best and rare at that. They are brown most commonly and sometimes green/brown>
So are Sebaes not supposed to be white or what because every one they had was white? 
<none are ever supposed to be white... see pics here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/heteraccrispa.htm
and check out the FAQs on the top of that page link> 
My lights not that high off the tank maybe 3 inches
<very good... fluorescents should not be any higher>
but I have a big radio shack fan on top making air flow threw the canopy I made but it doesn't heat up my water no more than my 2 24 watt power compacts I used to have. When I feed the anemone should I just put the food right in its mouth? 
<actually... feeding is a little tricky. Its best to make a slurry of minced food in seawater and gently baste/drift the food onto the tentacles. An abrupt shove or blast of food will illicit a fright response instead>
Do you think this anemone will make it at all or is it already going to die?
<actually, many can recover if fed often and well enough. 3-5 times weekly. Recovery will be evidenced by a less than attractive blotchy "bruised" looking stage where patches of brown color come back in. Read hear too my friend: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fdreefinverts.htm
best regards, Anthony>

Help! Anemone Heteractis crispa - The Story
Dear Sir,
Thank you for an excellent resource. I have attempted to educate myself as much as I can but I'm having an anemone drama and I'm afraid that time spent on my learning curve is, at the moment, my enemy.
<Ok>
Tank start 09/05/02 - 75 gallon tank with 10 gallon sump with water and filter and skimmer running but no lights and tank empty. For circulation I have water comes out to tank from sump at 600 gph. Also inside the tank are 1 Rio 200, 2 Rio 600's and 2 Rio 800's that come on and off anywhere from 7 minutes to 20 minutes apart at different times throughout the day (thanks to the Aquacontroller from Neptune systems) to result in what I think is a different form of current every 7 minutes in a pattern that repeats itself only once every 24 hours.
<Be sure your anemone is protected from all these powerheads, so it cannot wander into/on one and become blenderized.>
I realize this is more detail than you need to answer the questions I will ask but perhaps you will find some use in it, or in sharing it with your comments, with others. If not I apologize that it is so winded- skip to 10/04 for the start of the questions.
07/30/02 - This nimrod (me) decided he was going to have a saltwater tank. I purchased Marine Atlas 1,2,3 - Modern coral 1-4 and skimmed them several times and read about the parts that were of interest and still refer to them. Also - saltwater for dummies
<Not a very good reference. Bob wrote a review. You can see it here, http://www.wetwebmedia.com/salth2odummies.htm>
R.S.'s books on DSB and several others as well as hours of reading online. The point of including this is to basically indicate how I knew absolutely nothing 3 short months ago (and still don't really).
<Ok, where is the anemone part?>
09/22/02 - Installed 15 gallon H refugium next to sump and added "miracle mud" as the substrate and some Caulerpa. Went with high because I wanted to reserve the option to put seahorses in it and they like high tanks.
09/24/02 Diatom bloom (yuck) - not that I had a choice on tapwater but
yuck!
09/27/02 - The genius that I am so not decided I was going to grow sea
lettuce and Ogo in the refugium so I put some in it. Ugh.
09/30/02 Dummy me only wound up feeding the brown algae more nutrients by adding that sea lettuce. There was something in it that it just LOVED. The Ogo didn't like the water flow - I was obvious to me that was the problem so I put it in small CPR refugium inside the refugium and have it rolling in a circle with 2 Rio 50 pumps - just loves it now.
<Anemone, ohhhh here anemone. Where is that anemone?>
10/03/02 Added 40ish lbs of aquacultured live rock and 60lbs of live sand to tank from a Tampa Florida company. Although its not cured and I have inherited some unwanted guests this was important to me to buy aquacultured rock because I knew I was not destroying a million year old reef so that I could have a pretty tank of water in my house.
<Please see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marusepets.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/sourcesmortworldreefs.htm>
Also, I think this rock was very fresh because each piece was loaded with thriving living barnacles and I'm told even the expert can't keep these alive.
<Yes, it generally takes months for these to starve to death in most aquaria.>
I also think because of the refugium setup that I cycled in a day with this rock because I measured for ammonia and nitrites at least 3 times a day for the next 2 weeks and saw signs of these only on the first day.
<Perhaps it was already cured.>
Also - the refugium is now almost 2 weeks old and all the algae in it is
growing well (including the d!$! brown stuff that is now looking reddish but it is not slimy so I don't think its slime). I go in and shake it off the green stuff so it does not smother it out with a pair of tongs on a daily/every other daily basis.
<Far better to physically remove the stuff versus merely liberating it (siphon it out).>
10/04/02 Inherited guests include 1 mantis shrimp (I know they are not shrimp at all but I see why people call them that) - one very adult pistol shrimp (he is not wanted because he stirs the sand to the bottom of the glass which would not be so bad but he does it under rocks and cause them to topple). Also, there is no doubt in my mind that I do not have the DSB to support him and he will destroy it in its infancy. Also, 3 Aiptasia - not real concerned at these at the moment. Figured I would handle them by keeping my ORP at between 450 and 500 and add some peppermint shrimp.
<I like to use natural predators.>
Also - there is something else that clicks. I don't know if its pistol or mantis. Have not seen it, only heard.
1ST QUESTION:
<Thank God!>
Is there anything besides pistol shrimp or mantis shrimp that will make that "clicking" noise?
<Those are the two likely suspects.>
Are there "pistol crabs" for example?
<No pistol crabs, but many crabs that hitchhike. I once witnessed a "Margarite" hermit crab kill a blue legged hermit crab by bashing the shells together.>
I still hear it but I see no signs and its coming from a rock other than the one above.
<More pistols or mantis?>
SIDE NOTE: I have since removed the mantis and pistol described above and
will share how here for those who are interested.
<Oh boy!>
I tried the commercial traps, that didn't work. I tried the coke bottle method, that fell apart. I tried squirting hot saltwater at him - he just ran. I tried Kalkwasser in a needle and he just snapped at it. Finally I called the people I got the rock from and they told me to take the rock out - let it dry and eventually they would come out. So I got a tub, made sure he was in his home and took the rock out for 10 minutes. I decided that was long enough and that the whole rock did not need to suffer, so I took 3 ml of fresh water in a syringe and placed the rock so the water had the shortest path to the bottom, squirted that water right at him in his cave. He snapped at it twice and ran quickly with the water path to the bottom of the tub where I had a small amount of saltwater. The pistol shrimp by this time had come
out of his cave looking for someplace else to be and I picked him up with a pair of tongs and sent him on his way to his new home at the LFS. The mantis did not survive the fresh water battle and so he went to the water department.
<Flush>
I will say here that I think those mantis shrimp are the "aliens" of the ocean because he was way to smart. I say this because he lived in a cave with a front and back entrance high up on a "ledge" of the rock. When I started shining light into the cave he stuck a shell up to
"close" the door and then used this shell as just that - a door - and opened and closed it as he came and went. That is how it was easy for me to tell if his was "home". Several times he would open his door come to the ledge while I was standing there. I swear he would look right at me and snap his snappers and run back inside and close the door. I think he viewed me as a predator and was taunting me (a correct assumption on his part). And this is a "shrimp"??? ha!
<I have nothing to say, but I am still here.>
QUESTION 2
10/05/02 - Using actinic lighting on most of the tank to encourage coralline algae growth and diminish the brown stuff, I have several very nice sea squirt colonies growing on what I will call ROCK A and I wonder if that is because they just "loved" that actinic only lighting?
<More likely that is the rock they came in on. See here for more information, http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ascidians.htm>
SKIPPING AHEAD -the next 2 weeks is just typical startup drama
<I am starting to get a headache from staring at this computer screen for so long.>
10/16/02 2nd part of the rock arrives - added another 30lbs, 100 blue leg hermits, 2 tiger tail cucumbers and a sebae anemone
<Holy cow, we reached the anemone part. I feel like I just scaled Mount Everest.>
of the Heteractis crispa. When it arrived it was very full - very open and wavy and its pure white with purple tips with a fluorescent green mouth that stands out under the actinic. I have a 175 metal halide 10K bulb with UV filter hanging 12-13 inches above the tank with the glass top on.
<I would lower the light or lose the glass cover. The distance combined with the glass cover work to reduce light intensity/penetration.>
With this light on - he was stuck to the plastic bag so I snipped around him and stuck him and the plastic he was hanging on inside the tank and hung it from the back. I was afraid of forcing him off because I didn't want to hurt him.
<Good>
He hung there all day, all open and wavy, very beautiful creature. He even ate the little piece of cocktail shrimp I gave him. Now that I know he MUST have this halide light to survive I have increased
its burn time, however, since he has taken a liking to ROCK A I am concerned that the life I have spawned over the last 2 weeks are going to freak at the extended intense light. Is this going to kill my squirts?
<They are very difficult to keep alive anyway.>
If so is there anything I can do?
<Not much>
QUESTION 3
10/17/02 The anemone moved down the side of the tank and fell off - I watched him fall- all the while staying very open and lush. I moved him
(with my rubber Aquaglove on) to a piece of PVC pipe, a joiner piece, that I had buried in the sand and emptied most of the sand out of it so that only the top was sticking out of. I fed him again another little piece of shrimp to encourage him to stay there.
<Not likely to help. I would let it choose where best to live. This will depend on lighting, water flow, and substrate preferences.>
He seemed to like this spot for about 2 hours
<Far to short to tell anything>
and then slowly moved around ROCK A to where the Tigertail cucumber had taken up residence. Is he going to get along with that cucumber?
<The cucumber can move away.>
Will the cucumber hurt him?
<No>
DRAMA! 10/18/02 Turned light off to have a "dim" light day and just had the actinic.
<Strange, I just have mine set on timers and encourage others to do the same.>
The anemone shriveled up (only been in tank 2 days) and started looking very sickly. Never seen him do that.
<It had only been two days. Did you expect to see all of its behaviors by then?>
Was this from the cucumber or my decision to have a "dim" light day?
<Who knows?>
Does he require that halide for 12 hours?
<More likely 8-10. I would use the actinics for one hour first, then the MH's, then just actinics again.>
I turned it back on and this seemed to help bring him back to life but I really =wonder is all the stuff I started growing on ROCK A going
to die now from the increased light intensity?
<It was probably doomed to die anyhow.>
Anyways, I hope this is not a silly question but I feel pressed and I'm afraid to turn the halide light off again lest he have a fit.
<Just stick to a normal schedule.>
I really would like to keep him successfully and I have not yet added a clownfish because I have read that it is best to let the anemone find a home and get comfortable before having him play host.
<Neither needs the other in captivity to survive/thrive.>
Please tell me what steps I should take, can take, right now, to ensure the good health of my anemone.
<Educate yourself in their proper husbandry and more importantly, do less.>
I really hate thinking it is my ignorance that is killing him and I don't know what else to do other than give him bright light, excellent water quality, and good food.
<That is it.>
I'm feeling pressed for time as parts of him are still shriveled and the light is going off now via its timer.
<It gets dark in the ocean, too.>
LAST QUESTIONS - FOR SPECIFICS.
1. Do I remove the cucumber?
<Not for the reason you mentioned.>
2. Do I move the anemone back to the PVC pipe but in a different location?
<No>
3. Do I get a clownfish?
<Up to you>
Will that help him?
<No>
4. Do I stop feeding him cocktail shrimp and go with just the fishes
recommended?
<Feed small, whole prey items.>
5. He has moved next to a scallop will he sting it to death?
<Maybe>
Do I move the scallop?
<Sure>
6. If that clicking noise I still hear is a mantis - will the mantis shrimp hurt him? This is all taking place on, near, or next to ROCK A.
<No>
Thanks so much for taking the time read. I hope my spelling wasn't too bad and this email is useful. I wish I could proofread it more but this is such a primitive machine and I can only see 7 short lines of text a time.
<So, you could not see how big this email was. For the future, please try to be more concise. This novel was very long, but without a single bit of water quality analysis in the whole thing. Please try to limit yourself to the actual questions/problems and pertinent observations/analysis.>
Best Regards, James Pennington in Ohio
<You may want to consider joining an aquarium society for an additional resource. Take a look here for leads http://www.angelfire.com/oh3/aquariumclubs/ -Steven Pro>

Steven Pro - Re: Help! Anemone Heteractis crispa - The Story
Dear Steven Pro,
Thank you for taking the time to read my novel. I am at work now on a real machine and I had no idea I wrote such a book! Kudos to you for your patience and your comments!
<And thanks for not taking any of my jokes badly. I had to do something to entertain myself this morning.>
I was in a panic. I don't want the anemone to die because I'm stupid and was not prepared for him. He was a bonus that came with the "package".
<I hate package deals of all kinds. You always get something you do not want or later realize you do not want or you are not prepared and educated for.>
I had no idea I was going to have him until I opened the box. A very welcome but unexpected guest. I realize it might not matter now but just in case the water conditions for the tank:
pH fluctuates between 7.99 and 8.26
Still trying to find a balance between Kalkwasser and buffer
<This is a bit low. I would prefer to see something like 8.2-8.4>
ORP Ranges from 432 - 451
TEMP 77.6 night to 78.9 day
Ammonia has never read more than 0.25 ppm (testing daily watching for cycle) and is at 0 now
Nitrites, and Nitrates are both immeasurable and have been since day 2.
ALK: "normal"
Lastly, they way you phrase something below makes me want to ask - should I get rid of the Tigertail cucumber for other reasons?
<I would not chose to have one.>
The woman gave him to me as part of her "package". I have mixed feelings and wish an expert would share his advise. Is the benefit of these creatures worth the risk in your opinion?
<Their are other creatures that can do the same job with no risk.>
Kind Regards, James Pennington in Ohio
P.S. I realize I'm a just a stupid newbie but those sea squirts came to me as group of 3 and grew to a group of 30 and were growing strong until the metal halide light "time on" got longer. Once a week I would squirt about 2ml of plankton at them through a plastic needle. They look just like the ones on the cover of the Marine Atlas Volume 3.
<They are beautiful! Clavelina caerulea - Baensch's says they prefer shaded areas, so your lights may have some effect.>
Now they are starting to shrivel since the halide light hours lengthened. I just wanted to say that I GOT THEM TO GROW! ... or did I actually get them to "reproduce" ? :) I'm going to go put a piece of wood between them and the light for shade to see if that helps.
<Good idea!>
Kudos again for putting up with us Newbies!
<No sweat. -Steven Pro>

- Sebae Questions -
Hello,
I stumbled across your site, and think it is great.  I just recently purchased a rather large sebae anemone, and I have a 55 gallon tank with about 50lbs of live rock in it.  There are some bare spots on the bottom that are just substrate, but the live rock covers the majority of the tank.  I have 2 false perculas that have taken to the anemone, and really love it.  My tank has been set up for almost 5 years, so it is an established tank, and my water parameters are good.  I have 3 powerheads in the tank, along with the return, and my lighting consists of 4 96w powercompacts 2 W/2 actinic blue.  The anemone was doing fine the first day or two I put him in, but there is not a huge amount of substrate for him to attach his foot.  I would say he's about 8-10 inches when fully stretched out, but I haven't seen him that big since I purchased him. <Was this anemone under similar lighting in the store? Chances are good that your lighting just isn't quite as strong as this animal is used to.> Does he need a good portion of substrate to stretch himself out fully, or will he be able to stretch out over the live rock too? <It will stretch out when and where it chooses - depth of substrate really isn't a factor.> Also, he seemed to be moving around, and AFTER reading your articles, I can tell that you recommend not moving them.  I did move him before I read the other articles, and he seems to be quite healthy.  I put him on a rather large flat piece of live rock, hoping he would stretch himself out.  Will his foot be happy on the live rock without any sand, or would he prefer the sand to burrow his foot? <Again... it will choose the place where it gets the best current and best lighting, not necessarily where it thinks it has a good footing.> I'm not sure if I should move some live rock around so he can have some more sand or not. <Move it around so it can have more light.> Please help!  Also I have a small hippo tang that has not been feeling well ever since the anemone was introduced.  Is it possible that it brushed against the anemone? <Always possible.> He has been breathing heavily on the bottom of my tank now for a couple of days, but does have the strength to swim away if I put something near him.  If he was stung, will he survive, and is there anything I can do to help him? <If the fish was stung well enough, then there is nothing you can do I'm sorry to say.>
Thanks for all your help,
Steve
<Cheers, J -- >