Shark Keeping, Sys., filtr., Triakis...    4/11/09
Hi All
<Anthony>
Firstly I'd like to start by praising your efforts in maintaining the WWM website with its vast library of information. It has proved a priceless commodity in my research efforts.
<Very glad>
The reason for my email is to try and get some further detailed info specific to our climate in the UK.
I am keen on setting up a shark system, and I would like to build and maintain the best possible system to do this. To do this, I am currently exploring the avenue of building a shark 'pond' outdoors.
<Can be done...>
I am a great fan of the Leopard Shark (Triakis semifasciata). And being a shark from the temperate region, I was hoping that the climate in the UK would be sufficient to support this shark? I know that during the winter months it will require heating, but my initial thoughts are as follows:
I will be building an 1800 imperial gallon pool which will be used for the first couple of years, until a 5000-6000gal pool is built. The pool will be housed within a polytunnel/greenhouse type structure to protect from the elements. The water will be thermostatically controlled to ensure water temps stay stable and above 55 degrees. As well as a heavy duty cover to prevent jumping out...
I was also hoping you could provide some detailed info on the filtration requirements of the system. I know that it will be an extensive system due to their mess... but specifics I am yet to determine.
<Mmm, what little I know re is posted on WWM:
http://wetwebmedia.com/sharkfiltr.html
and the linked files above... Need high circulation (at least ten times turn-over per hour), no ammonia, nitrite presence... minimal nitrates (under 10 ppm)>
I was thinking of developing a multi stage DIY system, with a huge protein skimmer. Probably consisting of several drums house a variety of media, such as live rock and Caulerpa.
<... I'd be looking to other algal use:
http://wetwebmedia.com/refugalgfaqs.htm>
As well as a fluid bed filter?
<A good choice of gear here>
Regards
Anthony Payne
<Do keep reading, taking good notes... You have perused Scott Michael's Aquarium Sharks book? Bob Fenner>

Thinking about changing my filter methods... Shark sys., ATS...   7/12/08
I have searched your web site and have done numerous goggle searches only to be more confused. I have a 180 gallon tank with a wet-dry filter and a euro-reef protein skimmer that has been running a little over two years. My skimmer goes through cycles where it produces lots of skimmate and times when it produces none.
<Not atypical>
My ammonia and nitrite levels are at zero almost constantly however my nitrates are constantly out of control.
<Numbers please>
I have a fish only tank with large predator fish, a bamboo shark,
<...!>
lion fish, two damsels, and a wrasse. I have about a 120 lbs. of live rock which recently has lost lots of its coralline algae. I am considering adding either a algae turf scrubber, or a refugium or both to possibly add to or total replace my wet-dry.
<Good idea>
I like the idea of not have to do water changes all the time. But I have also read some negative things about the algae turf scrubber system.
<Some makes, models have inherent flaws, difficulties... Do give Morgan Lidster/Inland Aquatics a call, email...>
I would just like your opinion of how to provide the best filtration for my tank. My shark is very important to me and I have dedicated a large amount of my time and wallet to ensure that he gets the best so far he seems unaffected by the high nitrates but I do not want to wait till be shows signs of stress.
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/sharksystems.htm
and the series of FAQs above in this cat.>
I do perform water changes but I think that a tank should be able to remain somewhat more stable then mine tends to be. Any help would be appreciated. I also have been reading about the Ecosystem refugium what is your opinion on these.
<Very nice units, method...>
Thank-you for your time.
A-Garrett Arnold
<Bob Fenner>

Re: Thinking about changing my filter methods.... Shark sys., ATS...    7/12/08
My nitrates tend to be around 100ppm in between water changes.
<Mmm, too much>
I am not against doing regular maintenance on any means, actually tends to be some of the fun for me, however I am worried about the fluctuations in the nitrates on my fish.
<Not so much the fluctuations, but getting back, staying at a lower concentration>
My fiance and I are going to be getting married in about 6 months and we would like to put a bigger tank in our new house. We are looking at a 400-600 gallon. However, I'm just worried that If I can't keep a 180 in near pristine conditions how will I fair with more water volume.
<Incongruous comparisons... In so much that you are apparently aware of sources, consequences, means to control>
I already struggle to make enough water to do adequate water changes.
<Not the water changes that are at fault or salvation here>
I will give the Inland Aquatic guy a call. Do you think I would benefit from using both a ATS and a refugium?
<Very likely so>
Thanks for your response
-Garrett
<Read: http://wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm
and the linked files above. BobF>

Use of aragonite in fluidized sand filter, shark set -up f' as well  9/1/08
Hello Guys,
<Brian>
I have a question regarding the use of aragonite sand in a fluidized sand filter for a marine Elasmobranchs pond setup.
<Mmmm>
Are there any drawbacks to the use of aragonite sand in fluidized sand filters as opposed to the sand that comes with the units (ie silica sand)?
<Yes... mainly the pumping action (energy) it takes to keep this asymmetrical, different size media in suspension, turning... otherwise issues from channeling... from insufficient water movement>
Is it a good idea to use aragonite as opposed to the supplied sand?
<IMO/E, no>
I greatly appreciate your time in reading and/or answering my question. Your website is a tremendous asset.
Thank you,
Brian
<It would be a good idea to have a "monster size" DSB composed of aragonite, for buffering and anaerobic activity... but the FB is an area/processor of the forward reactions of nitrification. Bob Fenner>

Equipment sourcing in South Africa  11/07/08 Hi Bob and WWM crew may I start by commending you and your team for an amazing resource which I have drawn upon for a number of years for both specific information and purely for interest and pleasure. I also read your Sharks in the aquarium article in Ultramarine magazine with interest and have taken note of your advice and recommendations. <Sorry Bob is out for the time being... but he'll be back on Nov. 13th, then out again.> I am acting as an advisor to SAMPLA (South African Marine Predator Lab) - read Great White Shark researchers, who in partnership, run the Mossel Bay Shark & Ray Aquarium in South Africa. A small public aquarium with 10 displays containing 20, 000 litres in total. The remit of the project is rather than being profit driven the aquarium should focus on behavioral research, education, public lectures and conservation, with a goal of engaging the public, improving awareness and promoting the protection of endemic marine species, including Great White sharks (but not housing them obviously). <cool> I was carrying out research with SAMPLA over the summer and became heavily involved in the project. I have worked in the aquarium industry for many years hope to return to aquariums once I have completed my marine biology degree. <congrats> I have included a diagram of the main display aquarium filtration set up.  At present the main display consists of a 16, 000 litre aquarium plus 4, 500 litre sump. It is filtered using two sand filters and two 0.75 kW (rated at 20, 000 l p/hr) pumps. The first is in a closed loop system and the second passes through a sump system (see attached). <I will leave this for Bob to look at when he returns.> The location of the aquarium is very close to the ocean and a reliable (quality) source of seawater for water changes. As all the animals housed are endemic this system works reasonably well.  At the present time I think the filtration media requires upgrading. The media in the sump consists of : A Plastic (similar to Biobale) B Floss C Bricks (poor not very porous) D Empty It is proposed that the display will house Poroderma pantherinum, P. africanum, Haplobelpharus edwadsii and H. pictus. Though not necessarily simultaneously.  My questions are related to sourcing a suitable (commercial?) protein skimmer and media up grade for the sump. I am based in the UK and so my experience is largely UK based also.  I think that more (higher grade) biological filtration media is required in the sump i.e. volcanic rock, sintered glass or other synthetic substitutes but I am unable to practically source them in the volume we require.  Would you be able to recommend a suitable South African supplier/ outlet, or alternatively, a contact with South African or suitable experience that I could correspond with further? Do you believe it will be necessary to import the equipment? <I'm sorry Bob isn't here to answer all these great questions. I will make sure he gets this next week. In the meantime you might want to check out  http://www.marineaquariumsa.com > Thank you in advance. Adam <Best, Sara M.> Equipment sourcing in South Africa, for Catsharks  11/13/08 Hi Bob and WWM crew may I start by commending you and your team for an amazing resource which I have drawn upon for a number of years for both specific information and purely for interest and pleasure. I also read your Sharks in the aquarium article in Ultramarine magazine with interest and have taken note of your advice and recommendations. <Ahh! Please accept my humble apology re the tardiness of this reply. Have been out on Net range for a few weeks, diving in Indo> I am acting as an advisor to SAMPLA (South African Marine Predator Lab) - read Great White Shark researchers, who in partnership, run the Mossel Bay Shark & Ray Aquarium in South Africa. A small public aquarium with 10 displays containing 20,000 litres in total. The remit of the project is rather than being profit driven the aquarium should focus on behavioural research, education, public lectures and conservation, with a goal of engaging the public, improving awareness and promoting the protection of endemic marine species, including Great White sharks (but not housing them obviously). <A relief to me with this small volume> I was carrying out research with SAMPLA over the summer and became heavily involved in the project. I have worked in the aquarium industry for many years hope to return to aquariums once I have completed my marine biology degree. <Ahh! A good "cross over" for you, the folks, program you're associated with> I have included a diagram of the main display aquarium filtration set up. At present the main display consists of a 16, 000 litre aquarium plus 4, 500 litre sump. It is filtered using two sand filters and two 0.75 kW (rated at 20, 000 l p/hr) pumps. The first is in a closed loop system and the second passes through a sump system (see attached). <I see> The location of the aquarium is very close to the ocean and a reliable (quality) source of seawater for water changes. As all the animals housed are endemic this system works reasonably well. At the present time I think the filtration media requires upgrading. The media in the sump consists of : A Plastic (similar to Biobale) B Floss C Bricks (poor not very porous) D Empty It is proposed that the display will house Poroderma pantherinum, P. africanum, Haplobelpharus edwadsii and H. pictus. Though not necessarily simultaneously. <For casual browsers, these are some Scyliorhinids, Catsharks> My questions are related to sourcing a suitable (commercial?) protein skimmer and media up grade for the sump. I am based in the UK and so my experience is largely UK based also. <Mmm, well, there are excellent sources there... TMC (Tropic Marine Centre) and SeaClear/CASCO most notably... D & D also make good-sized skimmers... but I'd also look into the poss. of importing/procuring larger RK2 units...> I think that more (higher grade) biological filtration media is required in the sump i.e. volcanic rock, sintered glass or other synthetic substitutes but I am unable to practically source them in the volume we require. <Mmm, possibly. Do look into what you can source there in the way of Fluidized Bed units... these can be great for housing/having such large animals that have variable nitrogenous output, and low tolerance for metabolites... and are very easy (the easiest) to maintain, utilize for the function. I myself would avoid any "heavy", as in dense, compressible vitreous or carbonaceous material in your pressurized filters period> Would you be able to recommend a suitable South African supplier/ outlet, or alternatively, a contact with South African or suitable experience that I could correspond with further? Do you believe it will be necessary to import the equipment? <I do wish I were more familiar with S. Africa... Have never visited there, only have a few acquaintances that are in the trade, hobby... I have BCC'd and CC'd a few here in the hope that they will chime in> Thank you in advance. Adam <Be chatting. Bob Fenner>

Mossel Bay Aquarium Sump (Plan)

Re: shark / ray tank  12/2/06
I am glad you (mostly) approve of this panned
<planned?>
setup, knowing your disapproval of sharks in home aquariums.  One last question would be if you have any suggestions to help with the nitrification problem.
Thank you
Daniel
<Yes... my fave, a large refugium with a DSB, macroalgae... but there are other methodologies... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Re: shark / ray tank  12/3/06
Mr. Fenner,
    The thought of a DSB had gone through my head, but I was under the impression that these types of filtration were slightly inadequate for use in a shark tank.
<Mmm... no... and usually not in the tank itself... but located elsewhere, tied-in/plumbed together>
I could very easily make a DSB in the bottom of the sump I am building, or even in the tank.  With the use of a DSB/fuge would I still need a large volume of bio-balls, or would that just cause more problems?
Thank you again,
Daniel
<Please read on WWM (again?) re shark systems, DSB's... I would not utilize plastic bio-media in such an arrangement w/o adequate means of eliminating the consequent nitrogenous analog. Bob Fenner>

Skimmer and Refugium Combo  - 01/24/06
Hi, I hope you are well.
<I am, thank you.>
I am setting up a new system, I have ordered a 60x24x30 tank drilled with a weir and a 3ft Miracle mud ecosystem sump which holds 15kg of mud.
<Sounds good.>
I also hope to have 10+KG of live rock in the main tank.
I am hoping to house 1 or 2 Bamboo sharks, my local Public Aquarium has already agreed to give them a home when they are too large to keep at home.
<Make sure they do indeed intend to take the animals.>
Firstly I wondered what experience you have had with the eco mud system and if you feel the bio load would be enough to keep these 2 sharks.
<Along with a very large protein skimmer, it should be fine.>
My LFS sold me a Turboflotor 1000 to go in the sump but I have since read that using a protein skimmer with the eco system can remove important minerals from the mud, do you know if this is correct.
<May remove some desired elements but more importantly a skimmer remove many undesired nutrients, I would get the largest most efficient skimmer you can house/afford. Something along the lines of a large ASM, Euro-Reef Model or the like. I’m not a fan of the TurboFlotor, and with such a large bio-load/tank you’ll want something that works hard.>
One last question are Bamboo sharks ok to keep with corals.
<No; far too destructive.>
Your help would be much appreciated.
<Anytime.>
Many Thanks
Darren
<Adam J.>

Shark filtration
hey bob, <Hey Will, MacL here with you this fine and lovely evening.> you've compiled and put up some great info on wetwebmedia.com ! <Every day I become more amazed at the work that's gone into this site. Bob Fenner and company are fast becoming my idols> I must say that it has been the most comprehensive and informative source that I have come across yet. anyway, lets cut to the chase... I've got a 55 gallon glass tank with a hood, stand etc... I've got about 40 lbs. of live sand, I've mixed some instant ocean salt. as far as equipment, I'm running 2 fluorescent tubes in their own hoods, 2 powerheads (150gph ea. ), and a 30-60 hang on filter that uses carbon/foam cartridges. I've also got an airstone aerating the incoming water. <sharks cannot stand nitrates whatsoever so your tank has to be firmly and completely cycled. And you have to watch the nitrates very closely.>  
as far as equipment goes, I will be replacing the filtration unit with a protein skimmer, of course, however I am a little unclear about what else I am going to need... one of my local fish stores that sells sharks told me that I will need to purchase a good protein skimmer and place it inside of a 20 gallon sump filled with live rock. it sounds as though this would be a very good idea, after all biological and mechanical filtrations working in conjunction with one another should be better than just a skimmer. although it may just be overkill... <I don't think with sharks you can have over kill.  They are big waste producers they eat a lot of food.> I don't plan on placing anything inside of the tank other than 1 small juvenile grey Smoothhound shark. no decorations other than live sand either.  <You might need some type of cave for him to feel secure in.>
with this said, my main questions are as follows:
1. what do you recommend I go with as far as filtration ? I would like to be as economical as possible, but don't want to get crappy components that will just barely keep my shark alive. my local fish stores wanna sell me all this super pricey equip. so specific product recommendations will DEFINITELY be taken into consideration and appreciated. <Definitely take a look at the best protein skimmer you can get. Aqua C and EuroReef come immediately to mind.>
2. my tank's got a glass support in the top middle, I don't want my Smoothhound to jump up and catch a sharp edge, what should I do ? >is it something that can be sanded? >
3. should I keep my powerheads in the tank when my Smoothhound arrives ? <I would definitely keep them in the tank but make sure the shark can't get into them>
4. anything you could recommend that I may have missed or gotten wrong that will keep my shark as happy as possible until it moves to its bigger home... <Sounds like you are serious about your research and well on the way to keeping him happy.>
5. lastly, how do grey Smoothhounds and leopards compare ? leopards are just so beautiful but my understanding is that they grow larger and possibly faster than Smoothhounds... I don't want a beautiful unhappy shark, so I'm pretty much set on the smallest Smoothhound I can find... unless I can achieve the same results with a baby leopard. thanks so much, I look forward to hearing from you <I think you are definitely going to see very fast growth and lots of movement from both species. Please keep us up to date Will. MacL>
-will

Bamboo Shark Tank
Hello All!  Well, I have a ton of questions, so please bear with  me.  First, the facts.  I have a 220 gallon aquarium with 2 newly  hatched brown banded bamboo sharks, 7 pajama cardinals, 1 squirrelfish, 1 long  nosed Hawkfish, 1 blue hippo tank, along with several assorted inverts and  corals.  Before adding sharks to my tank I did a lot of research and read  Scott Michael's book several times over.  But, as I surf the web I am  dumbfounded with the multitude of varying advice!
<Can be bewildering>
I respect your site and  hoped you could answer a few of my questions for me.
<Will gladly offer my input>
  First, I am wondering  if I have enough filtration.  I have the tank going into an Aqua Clear 300  wet dry trickle filter and am running a Mag Drive 1800 to turn it over.   Off the sump I am running a CPR SR6 protein skimmer.  I also have  installed four Eheim Professional II canister filters and two of them have  inline turbo twist UV sterilizers. There is also at least 300 pounds of  live rock, and live sand.  While this would normally seem like overkill I  thought it necessary given the increased bioload.
<Me too... and this will be too little in time, with growth of your sharks>
  I just ordered a nitrate  reducer as I am fearful that nitrates may rise.
<They will>
Anything else that would  lower Nitrates with water changes?
<Adding a live sump, macro-algae, a DSB, plenum... please see here: http://wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm
and the Related FAQs (linked, in blue, at top)>
I have considered adding a fluidized bed  filter and calcium reactor.  Would you suggest either of these?  
<Definitely the FB filter. Maybe the calcium reactor if you find a need for same... that is, trouble through other means, maintenance in sustaining alkalinity and biomineral content>
Also,  my tank is a steady 78-79 degrees year round which seems to be in-line with what  I read.  Would you suggest adding a chiller to drop it a couple of  degrees?
<No. At least I wouldn't>
  I add calcium daily right now and use turbo calcium, and strive  for >400 - is this correct?
<350-400 is fine... are you satisfied with your coral health, growth, looks?>
I also have read varying reports about  Iodine.  I do a 50 gallon water change every week and use good salt (Red  Sea), and have been told by several that the frequency of the water changes  should take care of iodine and no more need be added.  Do you agree?
   Should I add more and if so what kind?
<Mmm, I don't agree... with the sharks, corals... I might add Lugol's or potassium iodide every water change>
Should I be adding anything  else?
<I would not>
I have read you site and have ordered the Mazuri  vitamins/supplements.  I also feed Ocean Nutrition Shark formula.   Should this suffice?
<I would look into other foodstuffs... cheaper, better for your sharks to have variety>
Besides the suggestions of Scott Michael, what sort  of fish could reside in this tank? They seem to be quite healthy and want to make sure I do not error.  Any suggestions will be greatly  appreciated.
Thank you.
William M.  Popich
<Please read the sections on our site www.WetWebMedia.com re shark compatibility. Bob Fenner>

Filtration system  11/28/05
I was wondering if you could give me some advice of some filtration systems.  My wife and I are having a 600 gallon tank built for our new house. We are setting it up marine with the intentions of keeping a small shark (Banded Cat Shark) along some other fish. I am not a beginner in the marine aquarium field but am a bit confused as to the different filtration systems I can use. I've heard of wet/dry, fluidized bed filters, skimmers, etc. If I use a wet/dry system, is a fluidized filter an option or is that over kill? 
<You can use a wet/dry system which would work well but wet/dries large enough for that tank usually aren't available over the counter. Would probably have to be special ordered.> 
What would a good system include? 
<For a non-live rock system I would go with a Pentair system (formally Lifeguard). Their triple mechanical and chemical modules can be configured to meet the demands of your system. They also make a fluidized bed module in three different sizes that can be used with the system. If using live rock, I'd go with a wet/dry filter and a 6000 gph pump. James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks for the help! 
<You're welcome> 

Horn shark filters 8/4/03
Hi crew,
<cheers>
I recently emailed you on a 280 gallon horn shark aquarium. Although I am very close to getting it, I am not good at knowing what to use as filtration/pumps.
<please start by purchasing and reading Scott Michael's book on "Sharks and Rays". It's a tell all book for your interest. Info on aquaria, breeding, feeding, etc>
I would very gracious if you could e-mail me  back the necessities. Thank you very much.
<hoping that you do realize the Franciscan horn shark (almost certainly the one you'll buy) is a temperate species and will suffer an abbreviated lifespan in warmer water? You need a chiller and they must kept under 70FG... in fact under 65F ideally. For filtration, you will need very reliable gross mechanical filtration that is serviced regularly (weekly minimum) as well as a large bio-filter (bio-ball tower, fluidized bed or sand filter likely).>
Thanks in advance, Ryan

Shark Tank Filters - 9/28/03
hi bob,<Phil with you today!> I was wondering what you would recommend as a quiet, effective filtration system for a marine fish (bamboo shark) aquarium 200 gallon at first.<Wet/dry for sharks, IMO.> if I was to use a setup other than a sump,<If you're keeping a shark a sump is a MUST!  A shark can bite into a heater and it wouldn't be pretty.  Get a good w/d and put it in the sump.>   what would you recommend?<w/d in a sump for sure.> would canister filters followed by a fluidized bed filter, protein skimmer, UV filter suffice? or does it sound like a totally bad idea requiring excessive cleaning of the canister filters.<With a shark you would be cleaning the canister filters a LOT... it would be a waste of time, IMO.  A good skimmer is a must.  You could get away w/o a UV, but having one just incase is always a good idea.> I do want a good system able to carry the load of such fishes.<A GREAT skimmer is a must.  Sharks are meat-eaters... and they are messy.  The skimmer will help keep them alive.  A wet/dry filter would be a much better choice over a canister filter.>
regards, Lex <Good luck Lex!  Please let me know if you have more questions.  And do let us know how the sharks do in the future.  Keep notes and share with other aquarists!  Phil>

Shark filtering - 3/17/04
Hi  Hope this hasn't been answered before, but I can't find exactly what I'm looking for. <Sorry to hear. Let's see if I can't help out>  I'm looking at setting up a shark tank about 10 by 5 and 3 feet deep.  I would like to know what you would recommend for filtering and water movement. <To be honest this is a much generalized subject. I must say though that to some degree it does depend on what type of shark you plan to keep. In any event though, most tanks make use of fluidized beds, deep sand beds, large oversized sumps with live rock (biological) and filter socks (mechanical and chemical if filled with poly filters and/or carbon), UV filters, large skimmer all intermixed in various configurations> I know sharks are messy eaters, so at approx 1000 gals should the skimmer be oversized? <I think I would use an oversized skimmer rated for a larger aquarium> When its done would also like to house rays and eels.  I know this is not a cheap investment so would like to do it right the first time. <Understandable> Thanks for any help.  By the way great site!!!
Norm

A Home? for Sharks
Hello Bob,
<You got Steven Pro today as Bob is out of the country.>
Thank you for you website. It is very informational. and have had a lot of questions answered. now for my question. I have a 55 gallon aquarium that I am setting up for a temporary home for some bamboo shark eggs.
<A very temporary home indeed. A 55 is inappropriate for even one shark let alone "some".>
Well I have a wet dry system on it and have read a lot about removing the bio balls. What is the purpose for this and does it help the bacteria convert everything that it needs to.
<The purpose of not using bio-balls or other inert material is to use liverock and live sand instead. This way when the beneficial nitrifying bacteria convert ammonia to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate, you have anaerobic bacteria to breakdown the nitrate to nitrogen. Also, trickle filters are very good at turning various dissolved organics into nitrate. Without a trickle filter, your protein skimmer has a better chance at removing more/all the organics in the water.>
Then approximately how long do you think before I can move the shark eggs?
<It usually takes around one month to cycle a tank.>
They are in another established tank now but it is not really set up for them. the new tank has been set up about 1 1/2 months now and everything is non existent or very low levels. thank you for all your help and I will continue to read all that I can. Steve
<Do be sure to read up on their respective care and how big of a tank you are going to require to properly house these magnificent creatures. It will be hundreds of gallons. -Steven Pro>

Re: Shark Tank
WOW quick response thanks so much for the good news, we will definitely go ahead with planning and construction, a couple more questions though: Is this filtration enough or do I need more? 
<Always good to have redundancy here... I would add more aeration (possibly a "bio-tower", with a blower injecting air into falling water... and a very large skimmer... make that two... look into Euro-Reefs... and scan WetWebMedia.com re this and other gear choices>
Where can I find specimens, I live in rural southeastern KY and obviously the selling of sharks and other large fish is not exactly a main source of income around here, where can I find Wobbegongs, Catsharks, and a black tipped reef shark? 
<I would start chatting on forums about this (ours: http://wetwebfotos.com/talk/)... Do make good acquaintance with your best retailers there... to have them make inquiries on your behalf (the wholesalers rarely deal with the public directly). Have them contact Quality Marine, Sea Dwelling Creatures in Los Angeles. Oh, and you definitely can/should contact Marine Center (link on WWM) yourself re these fishes. Bob Fenner>

Shark Tank
Hello from Denver, CO! I have a 120 gallon that is filtered with an Rena Filstar XP2 canister filled with coarse and fine foam, ceramic tiles, and activated carbon, a Magnum 220 canister with coarse foam and activated carbon, a UGF (which I've been told to get rid of) and a mere 35 lbs. of Fiji live rock. I have been told by the staff of a fairly respected marine store that this is "grossly under-filtered". Is this true?
<Not really under filtered, but definitely an old way and not the best.>
Say it isn't so! Also, my girlfriend has been researching the coral cat shark and wants to buy one. I have found sites that say that a 120 is big enough if it's by itself and if live rock is used sparingly. I said no, but I don't have my own web site.
<Your tank size and your present filtration would not be adequate.>
Thank you for your time. Kyle
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Pondering Shark Tank?
I am thoroughly enjoying my 4 month old fish / invertebrate system... I'm so glad I took the plunge into this hobby.  I am buying a new house in a few months and have dreamed of incorporating a 200-300 gallon tank into my basement development.  I would really like to do a predator type system for this one.  Some questions...
1.  Should a 300 gallon tank be ok in the basement with regards to weight?  Probably worth me mentioning to the builders?  Perhaps there is something they can do for extra support???< You should talk to the builders!!  They will know!>
2.  I have experience with canister filters... should I be using a sump system instead if I am going this big... especially with my livestock that I am interested in - see next question.  Sump systems seem complicated to me... are they really easier to maintain then they appear?
3.  I have always wanted a shark... I have read your shark info and will stick to a very small banded or bamboo shark.  I'm keeping my depth smaller and my width and length larger to give my creatures more surface area.  I plan to create two live rock islands, one at each end of the tank... as to give my creatures somewhat of a figure-eight type circuit with a nice sandy bottom.  Hope that makes sense...  just imagine that the white areas in the " 8 " are live rock islands....  perhaps 90lbs for each island.  Do you think this would work well??  For the current, I am guessing I need enough powerheads in the tank to turnover 1 to 2 times/hour???
4.  If I have a small bamboo or banded shark... I was hoping to add a moray eel (type to be determined), a lionfish, a couple of angels... Would these all be compatible together???  Do you have any other suggestions on what I could have in my system??  Or is there anything that I shouldn't have????  What about a dragon wrasse??  They tend to get quite big don't they??
5.  Last question...  if something goes wrong and I have to get something out of my tank... or for tank maintenance...  How does one avoid getting their arm chewed off??  I understand that one of the sharks that I mentioned are quite timid but of course unpredictable...  as well, snowflake eels or zebra eels are also quite timid?  I think I might be a little afraid with all those 'unpredictables'...  I don't know, perhaps this is a dumb question...
Dave
<Well Dave... I'm glad you like the marine hobby!  I do have some bad news for you!  You've only been in the hobby 4 months, to keep a shark takes years in this hobby!  I think your setup sounds nice for a shark but maybe a few hundred gallons more... more like 450-550 to be safe.  Sharks don't always stay as small as we like! :)  For a shark tank a sump is a MUST! Sharks might bite through a heater or knock over a tubes.  Sumps aren't as hard as they seem, at first glance maybe.  You can read up on them on WWM!  Please get the book Sharks and Rays by Scott Michael!  It's the BEST shark book I've ever read!  If I were you I'd get the tank and set it up as a reef or a fish only.  A few years down the road maybe a shark.  Please read now and be "ready" later!  Best wishes!!  Phil

What else can I do?
Hi WWM crew! <Hey there!>  I've got a question for you.<Shoot>  I have a 135 gallon shark/FOWLR tank and I wondered if it would be OK to run my system by you and see if you would have any corrections or suggestions for how I could be doing any better. Like I said, it's a 135 gallon tank.  The rest of the equipment is as follows:
CPR 800 GPH overflow
CPR CY194 Wet/Dry and built-in skimmer (water level running about 1/2 way up the Biobale)
Rio 3100 return pump pumping almost 800 gph at 4-5"
Sanders Model 100 Ozonizer (planning on buying a controller for it soon, not on yet) [Editor's Note: we do not recommend running an ozone generator without a controller.]<<Mmm, RMF doesn't think this is a big deal, as long as the maximum output of the unit can't do damage>>
Additional Rubbermaid sump with Eheim Subtrat and Mech mixed together covering about 1"
Two 55 watt 10,000K white lights and two 55 watt actinics
One 3' PowerGlo Fluorescent
Two 25 Watt red bulbs for night lighting (all lights on 24-hour timers for realistic day and nighttime conditions)
Rio 1400 powerhead for flow in the tank
Heater in the sump
It's stocked with:
2 very small banded Catsharks, one 7" and one 9"
1 larger banded Catshark (about 11 inches long)
Small (10") snowflake eel
2 gobies, one 3" long, one 2" long
Serpent star
2 Turbo snails
Small spotted grouper
There is also about 60LB of live rock in the tank.
I realize that the sharks (and the grouper) will get big enough that this tank will not be big enough in a year or so, and have plans to upgrade at that time.
Thanks for your help!
Rich
<The gobies will be eaten is short order!  They need to be moved soon!  The eel should be moved soon too.  The grouper will be a problem, as it will pick on the sharks.  Also these three sharks will grow at around one inch a month.  To keep these three sharks you will need a 300 plus gallon tank in about 6-8 months.  SO plan for it!  Hope this helps!  Phil>  

Sharks
<Pam, Lorenzo Gonzalez, responding for Bob-in-Indonesia>
Hello,
I got a question about adding a new fish to my tank My tank is 125 gallons I have about 150 pounds of live rock 2 in. deep sand bed for filtration I have a emperor 400 and a Skilter 400 also 2 maxi jet 1200 power heads for circulation. 
<That's grossly under-filtered. oh. well, maybe not for just one small puffer.>
The only fish in the tank now is a stars and stripes puffer I would like to add an epaulette shark about 12 inches and my puffer is about five will this work out okay with just these 2 fish I might maybe add 1 more down the road a little ways but not for a while and definitely before I get the shark I will get a big protein skimmer besides the Skilter and about another 100 pounds of live rock. 
<If you're quite set on a shark, (how 'bout a trigger, grouper or lionfish instead?) - I'd forgo all the extra live rock in favor of a much, MUCH more powerful filtration system, maybe a big Eheim canister, one of the wet/dry models, as well as a powerful skimmer. A leopard (you mention one below) will need mucho 'cruising space'.>
If this will not work can you tell me what else I need to get for my tank? 1 more question the epaulette shark is 260 dollars is that too much
<Too much for me - but sounds pretty typical.>
but it has been there for 4 months and is eating great also if I should not get the epaulette would I be able to get a real small leopard because the LFS also has 1 of them but it is smaller than my puffer so I don't know if that would be good. 
<With all that rock, the leopard would probably be able to stay out of the puffer's way. But less than 5 inches is awfully small to be buying. And keep in mind that both of these sharks will WAY outgrow your 125 gallon tank in a year or two - the 12-inch epaulette even sooner. 
-Regards, Lorenzo>

Shark aquarium setup advice...
Dear Mr. Fenner,
Sometime in the near future I plan on purchasing a saltwater aquarium setup. I want to setup up a community fish tank, but I am also interested in purchasing a shark. I have read that keeping a shark is a truly difficult task
<Pardon the interruption... Not difficult, though all things seem difficult at first... but keeping cartilaginous fishes requires study and dedication... large systems that are well circulated, filtered, maintained... Many people seem to have the desire to house such wondrous creatures, but lack the concomitant commitment to provide their necessary care.>
and I don't plan on raising one until I get enough knowledge on the shark and enough experience with aquariums. I was hoping if I could get some input from you about the setup I plan on purchasing.
<Certainly my friend>
I plan on purchasing an acrylic aquarium with dimensions of 84"x24"x24".
First off, is this large enough?
<For very small species for a "couple" of years, yes>
The filtration system I plan on purchasing is going to be a combination of a couple of different systems. First the water will leave the tank via an over-flow 
<Make sure and provide some surface skimming, and mid-water intake as well>
and then go to a wet/dry trickle filter. The water will then be pumped into a separate modular filter system where it will be mechanically filtered, chemically filtered, heated, and U/V sterilized. The final step before going back into the aquarium will be a trip through a fluidized bed filter. I wanted to know if this setup was too much or too little.
<As standard components/elements it should be fine... What will you do with metabolite build up? Perhaps a large transit sump with a deep sand bed, perhaps a hypoxic plenum... with compact fluorescent lighting, Caulerpa algae under continuous culture... Look at the very large Rubbermaid "troughs" or the poly "totes" used in the trade for sumps/stands for a suitable container here>
My final question on the tank setup is about the actual water pump.
Aquariums that house sharks cannot have any metal in it because the electro-magnetic field drives the shark crazy. 
<Yes, very often a problem... with metal anywhere in contact with their system water... even in National Public Aquariums...>
The water pump has metal parts in it; will this cause a problem with the shark?
<Not all do... ask your dealers to show you your choices in pumps with thermoplastic volutes, ceramic or plastic impellers... There are several makes, models to choose from. I would shy away from magnetic drives here... much better efficiency and you can use the flow of a fractional horsepower direct drive type.>
The shark that I was looking to get was the Brown Banded Bamboo shark (Chiloscyllium punctatum). The reasons I choose this shark were its size and its availability in its egg stage. Different sources state that it grows up to three feet and others say five feet. Could you please tell me what its maximum length is? 
<About thirty nine inches... according to FishBase... in the wild... about two feet maximum in captivity>
The reason I plan on purchasing it as an egg is because I don't want a shark taken from the ocean and then be put into an aquarium.
<This is a shark taken from the wild... a pre-hatched juvenile shark>
Another question on the shark is its behavior. I have read that it is a bottom-feeding shark and that it spends most of its time resting on the bottom of the aquarium like the horn shark. Is this information true?
<Yes, the predominant pose is "just lying there"... most of the time>
I know the water salinity has to be relatively high, at 1.025. 
<And consistent... good idea to get another of those totes I mentioned and pre-mix and store new water>
What other water parameters have to be met, such as Ph and temperature. Also, what type of lighting should I have and how powerful should it be?
<Lighting more for your preference... lower intensity than most folks use... a couple of watts per gallon of CF should be fine. pH 8.2-8.3... keep your eye on this, easy to slip with keeping large, messy eaters. Temperature, mid to high seventies F>
This is my final question; it is on caring for the egg. When I purchase the egg, should it be given a fresh water bath and then be transferred to a quarantine tank. Will this damage the egg in anyway?
<No dip necessary, but not damaging>
Any advice you could give me would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time. Robert Miele
<Do look for the references listed on the www.WetWebMedia.com site for cartilaginous fishes, and more recent works. Bob Fenner>

265 Gallon Setup
Bob,
I hope all is well with you. Wanted to get your advice on what types of filters, skimmer, U.V sterilizer to purchase for a 265 gallon tank I will be setting up shortly.
<These are all posted on our site: www.WetWebMedia.com>
I know I'll need a wet dry.
<Hmm, no.>
I want to get one large enough to house the heater. Would a few whisper 5 hang on the back of the tank filters and some powerheads for water movement suffice? 
<No>
It will be a fish only tank with a bamboo shark, ward's Wobbie, and a few compatible fish. I figure I will want to get the best possible skimmer because I am looking to do the least amount of water changes as possible( the price of sea salt adds up). Also, are there any large angels or triggers that wouldn't bother the sharks if they were smaller than the sharks and placed in the tank last? Thanks for your help.
<Yes>
PS. I did inquire about the Ward's Wobbegong at the Marine Center and they will alert me when they get them in.
<All sounds good... now hit the WWM site... Bob Fenner>

Skimmer Selection, crowded Tangs, warm water cool-water shark
Hello Bob,
Hope all is well I would like to know if you can help me out here first by guiding me to a good skimmer for my tank what is about the most efficient for big messy eating fish my tank is 125 gallons?
<The EuroReef if you're investing... though a Turboflotor will do>
Do you think this new filter setup sounds like enough for my tank I will have 2 over flows that will come down to my 55 gallon sump then go through the U.V sterilizer
<The UV should be the last item to be passed through... on the waters return to the main/display system>
and protein skimmer is there any thing else I should ad to that I'm not sure what else to use? Will this be efficient enough for my 7 inch stars and stripes puffer 8 inch leopard shark and 3 inch honeycomb grouper
<Do add a bunch of carbonaceous material somewhere here... these fishes are going to drive your pH, alkalinity down with their advanced growth...>
and after I get my sump running and everything I would like to add a tang possibly a Sohal, Achilles, or orange shoulder tang which would you rate the best for my tank? 
<All this going into a 125? No room... as far as suitability period, the Sohal, then olivaceus, last the Achilles>
I know how you say the leopard shark is a cool water species but my LFS says every time they get them in they are in warm water
<Define "warm"... most all are collected in waters that rarely go to seventy degrees F.... most in the fifties and sixties Fahrenheit... Research this elsewhere... Plug "Triakis semifasciata" or just Leopard Shark into... fishbase.org, elsewhere... this is a subtropical animal, living between 45 and 20 degrees North latitude. That's a fact, Jack.>
and they live long every time so is it that if they acclimate good and long they will do better I'm not sure but I don't see no problems with mine and he eats good.
Sorry for the so long message but just wanted to make sure I got everything and thanks for any info you can give me.
Pam Reinsmith
<Good luck to you my friend. Believe what you will till experience changes your mind. This shark lives for more than 24 years in the wild, almost never 24 days in tropical tanks. Bob Fenner>

Horn shark keeping
Hi I am writing to you in regard to keeping horn shark. I have been keeping horn sharks, Catshark and bamboo sharks for years. I have found keeping them is very easy to do. I live in Chicago south suburbs. I have kept my horn shark for years and had no problem related to temperature. My tank is kept between 77-80 at all times. 
<Do you know what/which species of Horn Shark you're keeping?>
I have been feeding him fresh shrimp from the store. I house my sharks in 135 gallon tank with four different types of wrasses. I keep tank my cool family room with oceanic reef filter and a sea clone protein skimmer.
<A small skimmer for such a large tank, big/messy feeders>
My water changes done every two to four months depending on water test results. 
<This is a long interval.>
I have also kept fresh water fish in my other tanks for long as fifteen years. I brought books on sharks and accumulated a large library of information on them. I hope there are more successful people out there.
<Me too>
Yours Truly,
Mel Hardwick
<Thank you for your input. Will post with the Sharks FAQs on our site, and to an article covering the family (Heterodontidae) to be written. Be chatting. Bob Fenner>

Re: Horn shark keeping
Dear Bob; I am sorry I didn't tell you that the shark I have is a California horn shark. 
<No worries... Heterodontus francisci is the most popular/commonly used species by far>
I live in area with a great deal pet stores. To those who are looking for a great deal of information try Barnes and Noble books or on the net fishbase.org. I thank you for taking the time to respond to my email. The secret to my success is keep my prefilters clean on a weekly basis. 
<Ah! A good practice with such large fishes>
Second is to feed my shark just enough, not leaving no waste at the bottom of the tank.
<Again, a very valid point>
My shark eats every 2 to 3 days. A lot of information I attain from friends at sea world on line and the shed aquarium. I enjoy your website. I help a lot of friends and co workers get start with fresh water or marine
fish. I like to let those who are looking for good pet stores in Chicago or southwest suburbs. Starting with Alsip Nursery-Frankford IL
815-469-1044,Capture Of The Sea
Orland Park IL 708-444-7614, For Shark and Stingrays Falling Waters
708-478-7663
and Scott's Pets 31st wolf road Westcher IL. All these pet stores have excellent prices and livestock. Most have a very experience staff on hand. 
<Great!>
I hope I helped someone become a better fish keeper. Remember the fish best fish keeper are the people every time you go to there home they have the same fishes and not lots of different fish in the tank?
Thank You
Mel H.
<Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner>

Re: Water Quality, Bonnethead Shark
Thanks for the reply. As I say, the water quality is good ‹ not pristine ‹but pretty close (this morning pH: 8.1, ammonia: 0, nitrite: 0, nitrate: 15 mg/l, phosphate: 0.2 mg/l). I didn¹t know anyone made an iodine test until you mentioned it. It will be interesting to view the results.
<Yes>
One follow-up question. Regarding the ³shark effect². This has me concerned.
<To be clear/er, what I mean is both the psychological effect of having a large potential predator in your living space, AND the overall physiological effects of its metabolism>
The shark is extremely well behaved, except at feeding time (where he swims very rapidly and splashes around). Usually, the fish ignore the shark (e.g. the shark often swims up to/into the other big fish as he¹s a fairly oblivious swimmer, then swerves around them.). However the angel will, at times, run away and hide in the live rock ‹ especially when the shark is being hyperactive at feeding times.
<Good idea don't you think?>
Also, when there¹s food in the water, the shark has been known to bump and/or follow a fish until he realizes they aren¹t food. Sometimes the angel will even lie sideways under a rock overhang. So there¹s some good evidence to your concern.
<Yes, and theirs>
The shark is about 18² long at 2.5 years of age (theoretically having reached maturity at 2).
<Mmm, no. Please see FishBase.org re Sphyrna tiburo... this fish does, will get longer if it lives... up to about five feet in the wild... about three in your system... and live for more years>
The angel is about 4² long and I¹d guestimate between 6-9 months old. Will the ³shark effect² diminish as the angel grows in relation to the shark?
<To some extent, yes>
Scott Michael lists the lifespan of a Bonnethead at 5 years, so I don¹t see him getting too much longer (although his girth continues to increase ‹ he¹s up to a solid 6 goodly sized cocktail shrimp/3 days). The angel is a pig and is growing rapidly; very bold, good color, often hand feeding.
<Do diversify its diet>
Other than the shark and angel, there¹s only 1 other big¹ fish in there ‹ a 3.5² yellow tang. Small fish include 3 Fijian blue devil damsels, a magenta Pseudochromis and a 6-line wrasse. Other than starfish, snails and a cleaner shrimp, that¹s it.
Any suggestions for reducing potential ³shark effect²? 
<Skimming, water changes, carbon use, the tying in of a substantial refugium with live rock, lighting (alternating with main system), "mud", many pieces of gear... ozonizer, desiccator for same... more physical break-up (likely more, large rock, nooks, crannies in the main system>
I might by able to add some more live rock creating more and larger hiding caves as a start.
I¹m still working on my master plan to upgrade to the Euro Reef skimmer (retrofitting the stand is proving to be quite the challenge). This should bump up the pH and increase Redox (but otherwise, there¹s not too much room for improvement in water quality). Also, this renovation will increase system water turnover from just under 5 to 6 times/hour, and I know the angel will like that. I should have it ready in another month or two.
<All good changes, improvements. Bob Fenner>