Lineatus Wrasse Issue 11/2/2009
First, I want to say thank you for providing the industry with such an excellent research catalog. I have used your site regularly for the last few years.
<Welcome Dustin>
I received a medium male lineatus wrasse 6 days ago from Quality Marine. I drip acclimated the wrasse to my water for 45min.
Water conditions remain stable with regular testing: temp 75.5, spec. grav. 1.024, pH 8.3, Alk 9dKh, Ca 440, Mg 1375.
It was placed into my 200gal temporary holding and observation bare bottom tank plumbed into my 1000gal system. The tank is isolated by UV and a 200 micron filter sock. There are 6" lengths of 1.25" PVC, a few large plastic logs and roots and a few decent sized chunks of live rock. Generally, fish go through smaller quarantine first but I was wary to put this specimen through that stress.
It has eaten every day since its arrival at least once. No bloating or thinning has occurred. I am feeding Tropic Marin Gamma mysis and Spirulina brine.
While not wholly apparent on the first day or two, the wrasse is showing unusual swimming behavior. It appears to be an affected swim bladder. I have not seen symptoms of stress due to a lack of sandbed like trying to get under rocks or PVC. The only time it gets excited beyond gentle swimming through the system is during feeding.
It twirls and swims upside down. The thing is it still manages to take down a few mysis every feeding and is showing no additional signs of damage.
It sinks quickly when it stops swimming and its tail seems to be the heavy end.
Could this be swim bladder damage from deepwater collection? If so is there anything I can do?
<Could be, and only provide good care, hope, and wait>
Could this be an internal parasite?
<Not likely>
Should I treat? Copper? Prozy?
<Prazi... No, I would not use any such medication/s>
Does it have a chance?
<Oh yes>
Thank you for your assistance,
Dustin Lofland
<Chances are good that if this fish has lived thus far and is feeding that it will recover in days, a few weeks. Bob Fenner>

Orangeback fairy wrasse... misplaced... hlth.   10/22/09
hey guys thanks for taking the time to read my email
<... grammar...>
first off i have a 40 gallon Hex tank. about to be changed out to a 45 gallon RR cube.
aqua-clear 50 filtration(not the best, i know) with Chemi-pure and poly filtration.
1 maxi-jet 600 and 1 Hydor Koralia 1 heads
130watt power compact(Corallife)
35lbs Fiji and Caribbean live rock.
asst polyps(star, button, and so on)
Hydnophora (purple and green)
1 pearly Jawfish
1 percula clown
1 green chromis
<A social species>
1 orangeback fairy wrasse
<This also... and one that lives in a larger "foot print" volume>
my question is about the wrasse, i bought him from a marine fish store which i always go to, when i first got him he was swimming normally eating and acting like a normal wrasse would. about 5 days ago he started swimming erratically (i.e.: upside down, at the top of the tank and basically just letting the power heads move him around the tank against his will. i have performed 4 formalin dips
<... for what reason? Too toxic>
over the last 4 days...per the owner of the store i purchased said wrasse at...he still has most of his coloration with the exception that he is starting to lose some of the orange. he was eating normally and is still eating some when i feed the tank(mysis shrimp with Zoe additive) which i feed at least once daily but usually twice. he doesn't have any visible blemishes as in ick or anything i can see. i recently began adding i small amount of metronidazole to the food (the Jawfish has a bit of "popeye" as well, but he stated that after i recently moved my tank from one house to another....stress related?....the wrasse was purchased after the tank was moved)...just wondering if there is anything else i can do...(my last wrasse: a solorensis, jumped out while i was in Europe).....bad surprise to come home to after a great trip.....but im rambling....anyways any help would be greatly appreciated thanks!!!!!!,
Matthew Rowland
<... See WWM re Cirrhilabrus sp. period and the use of Formalin.
Start here: http://wetwebmedia.com/velvetwrdisfaqs.htm
Bob Fenner>

Injured Rhomboid Wrasse, QT Issues - 10/09/2009
Hi, thanks for helping me in the past, but unfortunately I have to bother you another time today.
<Not a problem, we're glad to help!>
Got a beautiful male Rhomboid wrasse yesterday. My QT tank had a crack and so I was unable to use it.
<Time to start looking for a replacement! ;)>
I'm sure you guys have heard this excuse before, but this time it's serious :( I decided to put him into a Betta box, attached to the display tank in the meantime. He was feeding very aggressively on frozen mysis yesterday. The other fishes outside are all very healthy. Tank parameters are all ok too.
<Numbers?>
This morning I woke up to find a very badly wounded Rhomboid. To me, it does not look like any disease, but more of a physical injury. I have no idea what caused it, as the Betta box is shut tight, with nothing being able to enter or exit, unless they are small enough to squeeze through the holes of the box. He has a wound under his left pectoral fin, quite bloody too in fact.. I am in desperate need to save this poor guy. Is there anything I can do? Thanks for the help.
<Mmm, my guess is that the Betta box itself is the problem -- likely injured himself in a fit of panic/attempting to escape the confines. The injury should heal with time -- just keep water quality up and watch for behavioral changes.>
I know how you guys are always saying QT QT QT!
<Is one of the mantras around here>
This time, I really regretted. I am thinking it has nothing to do with disease....but I could be wrong.
<No, your assumption appears correct to me as well -- my guess is physical injury.>
Have attached a photo of him below. One was a very healthy and feeding rhomboid before the incident, and another one, the day after
Kai
<A truly beautiful specimen -- just keep the waters fresh and toxin free, and keep the food flowing. All should heal with time. Get that quarantine setup replaced! :) -JustinN>

Re: Injured Rhomboid Wrasse, QT Issues -   10/12/09
Hi Justin. I appreciate the help, but unfortunately the Rhomboid did not make it :(.
<I am sorry to hear this.>
2 hours after i sent this e-mail, I placed him in a pail with aeration, and did some light feedings. He did not respond to the food. I left the house to get some anti-bacterial medication, Furan, in case the need for it surfaced. When I came home, he was dead. Was devastated when this happened... One day he was doing fine, and the next, he was dead. I'm guessing it was my fault too..for picking him up on the day of shipment.
<Mmm, not necessarily>
I got him the minute he landed in my LFS, while he was still in his shipping bag. I am sure we all know this is not the right thing to do, and we should wait for a few weeks/days at the LFS, and then bring it home to QT.
<Yes, but is not always practical>
However, being a Rhomboid Fairy Wrasse, they do get snatched up within the 1st hour of shipment.
<This situation happens, but even further enforces the need for the QT period.>
This is a painful lesson for me. The injury looked quite bad, but the fish could have made a recovery. I guess he was just too weak/stressed from all that transferring, lack of feeding and suffering from the wound.
<Very likely -- though I highly doubt the death was fully influenced by the injury. The injury was likely just an outward expression of sorts of a rough ride.>
Thanks for the help anyway, and your advice will help me in future when this scenario replays itself.
<Certainly -- this is all part of the trials and tribulations of the hobby.>
Kai, the ex-owner of a beautiful rhomboid, whom died due to my lack of experience.
<Kai, Please don't be too hard on yourself -- we all lose livestock from time to time, and its many times due to circumstances that were well out of our hands. Don't get discouraged! -JustinN>

Sick Scotts fairy wrasse.  7/24/09
Hello there. I have found the information available through this site very informative. I was unable to find anything regarding this problem specifically and was hoping you could help. I set up a 30 gallon quarantine tank in anticipation of ordering 3 Scotts fairy wrasse about 2 1/2 months ago.
<I don't suggest, endorse quarantining Cirrhilabrus wrasses unless they look very bad on arrival>
I used some filtration media and rocks from my 120 gallon saltwater tank along with about 5 hermit crabs to cycle it. There is a aragonite substrate about 2 inches deep and about 15 pounds of live rock. My water parameters are 0 nitrates 0 ammonia specific gravity is 1.025 and my ph is 8.3.I keep the temperature about 78 degrees. I received my wrasse about 2 1/2 weeks ago and I noticed upon arrival that 2 of them had a small white discoloration (not a bump or fungus) along the dorsal fin line. I thought they may have been damaged in shipping.
<Easily happens>
They all tolerated the adjustment well and had hearty appetites. Last week one of the 2 which had a small fin discoloration started to develop a fungus on the area which seemed to be getting bigger. I began to treat the tank with Maroxy. Two days later one of the wrasse began to swim upside down and seemed to be breathing heavier. I started to add Maracyn
<?>
to the water along with Maroxy.
<... why?>
That did not seem to be a benefit so I did a 25% water change after 2 days and ran some carbon. I then left it alone for a couple of days. About 2 days later another wrasse started to swim in upside and now it can not control its swim pattern at all. The first ill fish is now lying on the bottom of the tank. The one fish with the white fungus is the only fish which now swims normally. I tried to use triple sulfa
<... For what reasons are you using these materia medica?>
for the past 2 days along with Maroxy but am not seeing improvement in the swimming pattern. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thank you.
>... Nothing you've listed gives (me) clues to what primary cause/s may be at root here... Perhaps these specimens were damaged in collection, holding, shipping... Oh, learn to use the space key twixt periods and new sentences.... Bob Fenner>

Re: sick Scott's fairy wrasse. 7/25/09
The reason I started to treat with an antibiotic is because everything I found on the internet
<Please; let's stop right t/here... You may have read many things on the Net... from unqualified sources. I assure you, having overseen the development of this site (WWM) for fifteen years, you did NOT read such nonsense from us>
indicated that these fish may be suffering from some type of swim bladder disorder.
<... for which none of the compounds you list are efficacious>
Have you noted this symptom in fairy wrasses previously and if yes, what type of disorder could be underlying?
<I have seen this sort of symptomology many times... much of which cause is undefined, but again, mostly can be ascribed to some aspect/s of collection and further processes of handling>
Do you think I should just leave it alone or is there something else I can do?
<Please read re the genus, family on WWM... again, I would not quarantine Cirrhilabrus...>
The company I ordered them from claimed that they had the wrasses 4 weeks prior to shipping them and that they had no problems. Thank you for your time and expertise.
<I am glad to share with you... Please start reading here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/velvetwrdisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Re: sick Scott's fairy wrasse. 7/25/09
The reason I started to treat with an antibiotic is because everything I found on the internet
<Please; let's stop right t/here... You may have read many things on the Net... from unqualified sources. I assure you, having overseen the development of this site (WWM) for fifteen years, you did NOT read such nonsense from us>
indicated that these fish may be suffering from some type of swim bladder disorder.
<... for which none of the compounds you list are efficacious>
Have you noted this symptom in fairy wrasses previously and if yes, what type of disorder could be underlying?
<I have seen this sort of symptomology many times... much of which cause is undefined, but again, mostly can be ascribed to some aspect/s of collection and further processes of handling>
Do you think I should just leave it alone or is there something else I can do?
<Please read re the genus, family on WWM... again, I would not quarantine Cirrhilabrus...>
The company I ordered them from claimed that they had the wrasses 4 weeks prior to shipping them and that they had no problems. Thank you for your time and expertise.
<I am glad to share with you... Please start reading here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/velvetwrdisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Re: sick scotts fairy wrasse. High price of ignorance   7/26/09
I will reread the information provided as you suggested. I would just like to apologize if I implied that the information I found on swimbladder infections came from your site. Of course it did not. Is there any benefit to "fizzing" the swim bladder. Thank you.
<None>

Fairy Wrasse Issue, beh., hlth.   7/8/09
http://s920.photobucket.com/albums/ad45/mdrumm/?action=view&current=P1000926.flv
Hi,
<Hello there>
I have a fairy wrasse that has developed swimming issues as shown in this video. Right now it's in QT and being treated with Prazi and Nitrofuricin Green.
<For what?>
It eats like a champ but has trouble swimming. Please tell me what you would recommend to get this wrasse back to good health. Thanks.
Mike
<Mmm, may have been damaged in collection... There is nothing to be gained by the above treatment. Only time can/will tell if this Cirrhilabrus improves. Bob Fenner>

Fairy Wrasse lump, and sys., beh.    12/10/08 Hello and thank you for the amazing wealth of advice that you offer entirely free to everyone. I have spent more hours than I care to think about browsing your site and I'm sure it has contributed to my enjoyment of my first 2 years of reef keeping by preventing disasters and related stress. <Ahh! Thank you for this. Deeply gratifying> In these 2 years I have not had any form of disease or infection (that I have noticed) so feel very inexperienced in this area. I have spent a number of hours searching your site for an answer but have been unable to locate one so, unfortunately, I need to ask my first question... My tank is a 180 litre display with a 40 litre sump. Display houses 1 fairy wrasse, 1 royal gramma, 1 blue devil damsel, a pair of tank bred Percs, a couple of red hermits, a variety of snails plus live rock and corals (mainly LPS with a couple of toadstools and some mushrooms lower down). Sump houses 4" sand bed and Chaeto macro algae plus Deltec mce-600 skimmer, heater and return pump. The system has been up and running for about 6 months with the wrasse being the last fish addition about 6 weeks ago. Last coral added was a Fungia a couple of weeks ago. SG 1.025-1.026, temp 25-26oC. Nitrate, nitrite, ammonia and phosphates are all nil. Ca 420, Alk 7 to 8 dKH (on the low end I know but seems stable here) ph between 8.0 and 8.3 (difficult to be precise on the kit - have asked for a meter for Xmas). I use RO water from my LFS for water changes. Two days ago I noticed my fairy wrasse had a lump on its face (please see photos). <I see them. They're excellent> Since introducing it to the tank it seems to react to it's own reflection on the inside of the glass and try to attack itself <Yes... a natural behavior...You should darken one end of the system (paper taped over the outside) to discount internal reflections> which has caused some damage to it's lips (a potential route in for bacterial infection? <Mmm, possibly> No sign of redness but difficult with a pink face!). The fish is normally very visible around the tank but started to only come out to feed. The lump doesn't seem to be getting any bigger (may have shrunk a little in the last 24 hrs) and the fish seems to be coming out a little more this evening. My LFS have advised that, as it does not appear red or weeping and the fish is eating ok, it is likely to be relatively benign and something that will go away by itself. I know patience is a virtue in this hobby but I figure this may be a time for an exception to the golden rule. <Mmm, rare...> I have managed to get a couple of photos that I attach in the hope that one of you be may able to share an opinion on what the problem is and whether or not it needs intervention. Please let me know if the files are too big and need cutting down. I have kept them reasonably large as I think I've got some decent pictures of the problem that may be of use to others should you wish to publish them on the site. Thanks again and I hope I haven't flaunted any of your very reasonable rules for asking a question or foolishly missed a disease photo library post. Chris <Thank you for writing, sharing your experience, accompanying graphics. A few things to state here. Cirrhilabrus spp. (fairy, velvet wrasses) are nervous, constantly moving animals that really not only need more space than here, or what most aquarists can afford them, but are also very social animals... Really requiring a mix of specimens of various sizes, a ratio of more, sometimes many more, females in a given system to "feel comfortable"... And, even given the large living volume/space and plenty of conspecifics, they still are "fabulous jumpers!"... A good idea to always have some sort of light/ing on outside their system, and definitely whatever conveyance to keep them in their tanks... that is not dangerous/damaging... My fave example is/was a huge tank up a multiple story building... in a neurologist's office years back... An "all plastic" (like screen door material) netting system arranged up the sides around the entire lip of the top of the system... such that when (not if) the Cirrhilabrus leapt out the top, they eventually fell back into the tank... some animals were still lost periodically... due to "sticking" on still-too-hot-but-cooling metal halide pennant fixtures strung above. So... the "bump" on the snout here will not likely go away... and this animal will continue its nervous behavior due to the size of this system, a dearth of mates to make a haremic shoal... and its inherent nature. IF you had the means to do so, moving it to larger quarters, adding more specimens of the same species (juveniles, females) would greatly decrease the "pacing" and jumping behavior... but not eliminate it. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Strange problem with a Cirrhilabrus cyanopleura
Hello again crew,
<Richard>
I have a problem with my Ruby Head Fairy Wrasse that I am hoping you can help me with. I have checked around the site and with my LFS and I am still unsure of what I am dealing with. First, my environment: I have a 90 gallon fish with invert system (just shrimp, feather duster worms, crabs, shrimp; no coral). Temp, salinity, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, ph, and alk are all normal.
I noticed about a week or two ago that my Ruby Head's upper "lip" looked swollen; almost as if it was folding up on itself. But he otherwise behaved normally until a few days ago when I found him lying on the bottom. When he spotted me, he swam up and begged for food as usual. When I fed him some Spectrum 1mm pellets, he sped to scoop them up and then either flicked his head and spit it out or dodged it at the last moment.
<Both good clues>
With close observation I also noticed very small white material that appeared to look like hair or cilia on the inside of his lip. At this point I was thinking mouth fungus, although I had only heard of this in freshwater fish.
<These decomposers are everywhere...>
This concerned me so I called my LFS. They thought it may be a bacterial infection as a result from a wound in the mouth from pecking at something and suggested using Melafix (ugh).
<... no>
Not much help there, but now I wonder if it is bacterial. The explanation they offered sounded reasonable; I just didn't like the "fix".
<Is likely bacterial to some extent... but the cause...>
He still aggressively chased down food. He just didn't hold it down, so I decided to try something smaller. I fed some crushed flakes and he did manage to eat them. I've since been feeding Spectrum that has been softened up by soaking either in garlic extract or Selcon.
Fast forward to today. Now he is scratching his mouth directly on the live rock. No swiping his body on the rock ala Ick style; just his mouth. He is also holding open his left gill much wider than his right gill. Now I am thinking parasites perhaps?
<Mmm, not likely>
The gill opening (even though just one) also prompted me to test my water parameters again - still no problem there.
I have two quarantine tanks I can move him to. I have been delaying the move in hopes that his condition would improve since he is still eating albeit with some special preparation. It is now clear to me that he should be moved to QT and treated, but the big question is - treated with what?
Copper, antibiotics, antifungals, eye of newt?
<Wing of bat... none of the above>
I really do appreciate the time and effort each of you put into the site.
It is my first stop whenever looking for information about the hobby. Keep up the good work and thanks for reading this far!
~Rich
<I do believe in serendipity, the simplest explanation generally "filling the bill"... The most likely scenario here is that this Wrasse jumped, bumped its mouth (very common with Cirrhilabrus)... be patient... will fix itself. Bob Fenner>

Fairy wrasse quarantine - not? 1/12/2008
Hi Crew,
<Tom>
I'm learning from some of the WWM FAQs that a Cirrhilabrus solorensis is best dipped and placed in the display, without quarantine, correct?
<Often the case>
Along with the usual observation procedure, do you have any guidance for the duration of the dip with this particular species?
<A few minutes...>
I have formalin available, would it be wise to add that to the FW dip for this fish?
<Mmm, yes... but... I'd limit the bath to a minute or so if using... at "regular" strength>
For two days I have had this fish in a 30G QT setup, with PVC that it hides in at night. I sure don't want to doom this fish in QT if it's likely to die of stress. At the same time, I don't want to risk infecting the display tank.
<Believe me... I understand>
BTW, the wrasse appears healthy, active, and has a good appetite for Mysis.
Thanks,
Tom
<Good... a brief dip then, rather than an extended bath... to help assure external parasite removal. Bob Fenner>

Internal Parasite? Cirrhilabrus in quarantine for too long  12/7/07
Hello,
<Tyler>
I seem to be having a problem with a fairy wrasse that eats but doesn't want to put any weight on.
<Not uncommon... live in shoals that feed continuously during daylight hours... need to be supplied with food frequently in captivity... best via large, healthy refugiums>
He has been in my QT since August and I haven't felt comfortable enough to release him to my 135 gallon reef.
<... I would. It will NOT gain weight under present circumstances>
I assume that I'm dealing with an internal parasite?
<Mmm, no, not necessarily or likely>
I have tried Prazi-Pro, Metronidazole & recently have been adding Seachem's Focus to his food. Is there any other medication I could try?
<Yes... but I would not>
I would like for him to make the journey to my reef at some point. Thanks.
<I would place this fish, now. Bob Fenner>

Re: Internal Parasite?... Cirrhilabrus reading... using WWM  12/7/07
Thanks for the response. How long should I generally quarantine fairy wrasses for? Thanks.
<Please see WWM re the genus Health/Disease, and elsewhere on the site re Quarantine... the search tool, indices... RMF>
 

Cirrhilabrus dis.  10/23/07
Hi <Hey Joshua> I just bought a Scott's fairy wrasse.
<One of my favorite fish, they are spectacular!>
It's been three or four days and he has a white firm over his I any suggestions
<I’m going to assume that you mean “white film over his eye”. This could be bacterial or parasitic and is the reason why you should quarantine new fish. Please read http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i4/quarantine/Quarantine.htm a well as the other links at the bottom of the article for treatment advise. Good luck!! – Brian Griffin>

Wrasse pectoral fin injury, Cirrhilabrus hlth., sel.  8/29/07
Hello,
<Hi there>
I have a male Hawaiian fairy wrasse
<Cirrhilabrus jordani I take it>
which has been fine in my 72 gallon tank with plenty of live rock and a mixed crushed coral/aragonite sand substrate.
The wrasse shares the tank with a Rabbitfish, False Percula, Chromis, and fridmani Pseudochromis.
The other night I happened to be up around 2am and heard an odd sound in my tank. The sound was either a bumping sound (perhaps my acrylic lid tank covers) or mechanical(possibly a powerhead). Either way, I noticed the next morning that my Wrasse's pectoral fin seemed non-functional and the fish made efforts of swimming about but with some difficulty. The incident occurred when all the tank lights were out....also that same morning, I noticed a 4-inch branch of one of my Acroporas was broken off too. My guess is that the fish got spooked or something...maybe even gotten too close to the powerhead intake vents.
So the fish eventually swimmed
<swam>
to the rear/bottom of the tank and with rapid breathing. As of now, I don't know if he's hiding or possibly consumed by the tanks crustaceans...all my tank lights are on and I don't see him.
Is it possible for fish to heal from such a wound (even if it's a broken fin?). I don't see any tears or other signs of stress to the fin.
<Possibly... Fairy/Velvet Wrasses are real "jumpers"...>
Is it wise to attempt to capture and confine the fish to heal in a quarantine tank?
Or would the stress of acquiring the fish be too much stress and cause potentially more harm?
<I would leave this fish in place>
Any thoughts?
thank you!
Walter
<Better for this species to be kept in a haremic setting... one male and a few females... even better in a biotopic setting... None of its tankmates you list are found in its geographical range. Bob Fenner>

My Cirrhilabrus rubrimarginatus is shaking ...   8/19/06
Dear WWM Crew,
<Diane>
I have had, what I believe to be a Cirrhilabrus rubrimarginatus, for about 4 months now.  It's between 4 and 5 inches long and really a beautiful fish. Up until lately, it seemed to be eating, swimming, etc. quite normally.  I don't know how else to describe this but to say that for the past couple of weeks, I notice that the fish has begun to shake when it's swimming around. It seems to be getting worse every day. Like a person would shake with Parkinson's disease.  Is it having problems breathing?
<Do not believe so.>
Background:  My aquarium is 50 gal.  It has a refugium w/Euro protein skimmer. Water parameters are all normal. Salinity is 1.023.  Temp is usually between 77 and 81 degrees; occasionally has spiked higher though (86) when I had forgotten to turn the external fan on in the morning before leaving - and once when we had a six hour power failure during a heat wave - (not fun) ... :o(
Other inhabitants are a yellow tang, blue tang, 2 clowns, 3 green Chromis, diamond goby, 6-line wrasse, and one Anthias.
<This tank is much too small for these fish, especially the tangs and your subject wrasse.>
An anemone,
<Not a good idea having an anemone with non-anemone tolerant fish, and corals.>
a few corals, snails, blue leg crabs and hermits.  Recently I had a red slime problem and was told by my LFS that I might be feeding them too much.
<More than likely from overcrowding than anything else.>
He suggested that I only feed them every other day to eliminate the red slime.  I did, and it worked, but I am concerned that I am not feeding them enough now.  I feed them a variety of foods- i.e., frozen cubes, fish roe (from the sushi market), ground up shrimp, seaweed, Cyclop-eeze, plus a weekly regime of different additives for the reef - DT-live or Microvert, calcium, alkalinity, etc.  I change out 10 gal. of water/week, plus have my LFS come out once/month to do a complete cleaning and make sure everything is running properly.  Should I be concerned or is this normal behavior for this kind of fish?  I did take a 15 sec. video of it tonight that I could email you if you want to take a look?
<If the fish appears to be itching himself on the substrate while doing this, the fish is exhibiting hunting behavior, trying to uncover crustaceans to munch on.
I've also observed this shuddering effect with other wrasses present as a "this is my territory" display.  Is this fish eating well.  The Pink Margin Wrasse is not one of the easier ones to acclimate.  Keep an eye on him for signs of any parasitic type disease that may be developing.  Do read our wrasse behavior FAQ's also, and related links above.  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/wrassebehfaqs1.htm>
Thank you for your help.
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Sincerely,
Diane

Re: My Cirrhilabrus Rubrimarginatus is shaking ...   8/19/06
Thank you for the quick reply, James.
<You're welcome.>
I knew when I purchased the blue tang that he would eventually outgrow the tank.  My justification was to trade him back to my LFS when he gets too big and start again with a little one. He was about the size of a quarter when I got him - and he's now about the size of the circumference of a standard coffee cup.   The yellow tang is about the same size.  Still, your point is well taken regarding the tank being too small.  
Regarding your questions about the wrasse - he is eating fine.  No, he's not itching himself at all on the substrate that I've noticed.  He lays behind the rocks a lot and sometimes on the bottom of the sand.  At times, I've thought him dead because he's in sort of curved positions.  Then I'll see his eyes move - or I put a net into the water to pick him up and he swims away without problem.  When I open the top of the aquarium,
<These fish are jumpers, so ensure the top of the tank is well covered.>
he usually comes right out looking for food.  He only seems to shudder when he's swimming around in the water.  So far - no parasitic type diseases on any of the fish - but I'll keep watching...
<Do you have a fine sand substrate the wrasse can take cover/sleep in?>
Thank you for the link - I read a lot last night on your site - but I think I missed that one so will go back and read through it.  You and your team provide such a wonderful service to the rest of us novices out here who so enjoy these beautiful creatures.  I can't imagine how you find the time to do this.  But I'm glad that you do!
<Is a collective effort among the crew.>
Thanks again.
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Best regards,
Diane

Re: My Cirrhilabrus Rubrimarginatus is shaking ...
Yes, I do.  It's between 3-4 inches deep.  I have seen (and heard) him jump before so I do keep it covered. It's not a canopy on top, but two sets of lights (power compact lighting) that go across with about an inch or so in between.  I place a fan on top every day to keep the air circulating and the temperature down.  Just enough space to allow the cool air from the fan in.
Thanks again James - I'll keep reading and observing them - and considering a larger aquarium...
<Sounds good, James (Salty Dog)>
Sincerely,
Diane
 

- Please help, sick wrasse! 6/15/06 -
I have a 4 year-old Red Head Solon Fairy Wrasse that I fear is ill. It's left eye is bulging out and distorted. It still eats well, but is more shy and spends most of the day hiding among the live rock, but otherwise seems relatively ok. It's color is good and doesn't seem to be breathing abnormally. Is there some kind of disease that would cause this? <Sounds to me like Popeye, although I'd look carefully at this eye to make certain it doesn't look like it has an air bubble in there. If it is just swollen then it can heal and return to normal.> Is there some kind of treatment I can give it? <Not directly. You could add some Epsom salts - about one tablespoon per five gallons (which will effect your salinity) to help with the swelling. Not much else you could do beyond catching the fish and letting it recover in a quiet tank by itself.> It is housed in a 120 gal. with a percula clown, a pajama cardinal, and a 21 year-old pair maroon clown and large carpet anemone. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated as I have grown quite attached to the beautiful wrasse. <Mostly I can wish you luck and we can both hope for the best.>
Sincerely,
Josh C.
Atlanta, GA
<Cheers, J -- >

Laboutei wrasse with Popeye possibly injury
Hi, I have a 5 inch male Laboutei who injured his eye from a lanceolatus fairy wrasse which is going to be sold by tomorrow. Now once I get rid of the trouble maker what is the best medication I can use to help him. I was thinking of Maracyn 2. Any suggestions crew? :)
<Minocycline is very safe, though not likely to be effective here... I myself would just "hold-off" and wait/see if this self cures (likely). If not, in a few weeks I might try a level teaspoon of Epsom salt per ten gallons of system water. You can search, read re this procedure on WWM. Bob Fenner>

Quarantine Or Not? - 03/03/06
WWM Crew,
<<Hello>>
As always thanks for all the work you do on this site.  It is a tremendous help to me and many other enthusiasts alike.
<<Rewarding to hear.>>
I have a question about a painted fairy wrasse (Cirrhilabrus solorensis?).
<<yes>>
I just purchased a 2" specimen along with a 2" raccoon butterfly (Chaetodon lunula).  I drip acclimated them for an hour and a half then moved both of them to a bare bottom 20 gallon long qt tank.
<<Mmm...>>
Inside the tank I have several different PVC fittings for them to hide in.  The butterfly is doing great and swimming around, but the wrasse keeps trying to fit under the pipes.
<<Not unexpected.  QT is very useful and necessary, but at times/under certain conditions can do more harm than good.  I would give this fish a pH and temperature adjusted freshwater dip and place it in the display tank (you do have a suitable sand bed in the display, yes?>>
I know that they like to bury themselves in the sand, but I'm worried about him banging into the bottom of the pipes.
<<Indeed...and psychological damage as well.>>
Do you know of anything I could put in the qt tank that he could get under that would be better for him?
<<Not without compromising the QT tank.  Best to move to the display as explained.>>
Also if his behavior continues should I move him to the main tank after a few days?
<<I would do it without delay.>>
My main tank is a 95 gallons, 55 gallon sump, 110 pounds of live rock, 4" hippo tang, 7 blue green Chromis, two cleaner shrimp, and some Cerith and turbo snails.
Thanks for any help you can provide,
Cory
<<Regards, EricR>>

Exquisite Wrasse  - 2/15/2006
Hello,
<Hi there>
I recently purchased an exquisite wrasse who now resides in my Quarantine Tank.  The wrasse is having a major problem swimming.  He lies on his back most of the time but breathes normal.  When I feed him, he scoots himself along to catch the food.  What type of condition could he have and what medicines are available to treat this.  All of my tank parameters are normal.  I don't want to lose him.  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks.
<Having chased this species a number of times underwater I am surprised any arrive in live condition... this is one of the species I would do a pre-emptory dip/bath on and place in a large, established (hundreds of gallons, lots of live rock, reef) aquarium... and hope that it lives. Bob Fenner.

Fish swimming vertical 12-19-05
I've had a tri-colored fairy wrasse in my tank for 3 weeks now.  It is swimming vertical instead of horizontal and it's struggling to swim at all.  Some of his fins are slightly frayed which I am guessing is a secondary infection of fin rot.  It isn't gasping and has no other signs of infection that I can see.  I did notice shortly after I got the fish that he had white stringy feces, but thought this was due to stress.  
<Nope, it was actually internal parasites.>
I am moving him to a quarantine tank, but am wondering if this is a sign of a bacterial, parasite, or some other infection and what is the best way to treat the fish?  
<Parasitic infection complicated by a possible secondary bacterial infection of the swim bladder.>
Should I lower the salinity in my quarantine tank?
<Can't hurt at this point.>
Is it likely that my other fish will get sick as well?  
<It is possible that they will catch the internal parasites, but if their immune system is strong they should be able to fight it off.  If they show any sign of white feces, pull them and treat them right away in a QT or begin treating them with medicated foods.>
I would really appreciate any advice that you could give me and I love your website, you guys do a great job.
<Happy Holidays, Travis>
Thank you,
Thresa Aguayo  

Longfin Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus rubriventralis), choked on tako? 10/25/05
Howdy,
<You as well>
Love your site, good book too.
<Welcome>
I had purchased 3 Longfin Fairy Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus rubriventralis), mail order. I put them into the quarantine, one died the next day. 
<This genus... and Parachelinius, Pseudocheilinus... others... often takes a beating in transit (they don't ship well at times)>
He didn't look so hot from the get go and was refunded. Two weeks went by with no problems, they were eating everything, acting normally. Then today I fed them some squid, which is nothing new, I've done it before, I rotate through 6 or so different foods. 
The dominant wrasse came up ate a few pieces as usual, then pulled a slightly larger piece, swallowed it, spit it out, then started tearing at it like an alligator, rolling and twisting, then started darting around, having seizures, then began laying at the bottom, changing color like crazy, breathing heavy, then died about 30 minutes later. 
Water is great, I change it every other day, and there is nothing dangerous in the tank. This fish did have a strange bluish colored right eye, but no other signs of any problems ever. Any ideas?
<Sounds like a bit "got stuck" in its buccal cavity or branchiostegals (gill arches)... trouble... I would only offer such tough food/s as small bits. Bob Fenner> 

Fairy Wrasse with ich - alternate treatments 8/8/05
I have had a Cirrhilabrus rubriventralis wrasse in QT for 3 weeks now.  He has had mild ich from the get go so I took the salinity down to 1.011 measured with a lab grade hydrometer.  I thought we were over it but yesterday I looked in and he's a mass of white spots! I am tired of this and am going to treat the fish with copper, unless these fish are oversensitive.  Is this a good idea?
<Fairy wrasses are at least somewhat sensitive to copper IMO. I'm not a big fan of it as it is. If it were my fish, I'd do freshwater dips from a QT tank near daily for 5 days while adding garlic and B12 to the water>
cheers, Wayne Oxborough. Norway
<With kind regards, Anthony>

Lineatus Fairy Wrasse With Injured Jaw - 07/02/05
Hi, I have a beautiful lineatus fairy wrasse, appears to have a injured  jaw, I had a Aust Scott's wrasse in the tank with him, he was the boss, he never attacked him but he startled him flaring up to him showing he is king and I suspected that he banged his jaw against the glass.  It doesn't look broken but it is gapped a little and he can't close his mouth.  Will he recover from this injury? He shows interest in food and takes some of the smaller pieces in his mouth, kind of shakes his head after taking a few pieces in. Is there anything I can do for him.  I really don't want to lose him.  He swims just find by the way, flaring his fins and swimming proud.  Thanks, Scott.
<<Well Scott, difficult to say what might be the problem here.  Aside from immediate danger from internal injury (if present), the real problems are going to be whether this fish can still eat properly and in enough quantity to survive, and/or secondary infection from an open wound.  My recommendation would be to remove the fish to a quarantine/hospital tank where you can watch it more closely, medicate IF it becomes necessary, and feed and recover (hopefully!) free from the stresses of the display tank.  Regards, Eric R.>>

Bummed male flame wrasse
Hello Bob,
I'm sorry that you didn't have a chance to make it out to the Big Island last January. Would have been a hoot trying to dive though. All the usual shore diving spots were getting hammered and I mean HAMMERED with huge waves.
<Wish you were out here with us right now... still can... am here for another few weeks. Some hashers, ChuckR et ux. of WWM, Pete... and I are here>
On to the reason that I'm writing...
While out in Hawaii I caught a male and female Flame wrasse and shipped them back here to San Diego.
<Neat... Cirrhilabrus jordani... not easy to catch>
Arrived fine and have been happier than any other flame I've had before. Haven't really had an unhappy flame yet... till now. With in the past few days I've noticed that the male is all bloated like he has eaten too much. Not real sociable and out displaying. Still swimming fine but the bloating is a little more each day and I think he's gonna pop any day now. 
Really doesn't eat anymore, kind of pecks at some of the small bits that float by then goes back into hiding. Can't get the bugger out of my 125 gal reef setup to treat. All parameters for water quality are really groovy. My SPSs tell me when I've been less than diligent, well before the fish tell me. Problem seems to be an internal bacterial infection. The question being can I treat him in the reef system without damaging the setup (i.e. SPSs) since I can't get him out and with what do you suggest if I can.
Hope to hear back while there might still be hope.
Thanks,
Paul Witt
<Maybe (what I would do) try bolstering the fish's immune system through feeding, directly adding Selcon or equivalent to foods, the water... do whatever you can to spiff up water quality... Bob Fenner> 

Cirrhilabrus
<MikeD here>
This may be an odd question to ask, but what is the normal color of a fairy wrasse's droppings?  I had Cirrhilabrus wrasses of several kinds before, and have noticed some have white droppings.  Of course other times, they seem normal, and are an olive green coloration.  What causes them to have white droppings?<The normal explanation is that it depends upon the diet, just as with any other animal, with whatever goes in determining whatever comes out....sort of like corn in humans>  While I'm quarantining this species of fish, if I had to treat for external parasites, how do I do so without killing them?  Apparently, freshwater baths are out of the question for this fish.<My suggestion would be a formalin type medication if possible, and as with any fish of a delicate nature, using 1/2 the normal dosage is a wise precaution>  Also while I'm at it, does any one know the life span of a fairy wrasse?<As with most marine fishes, that's a no. The hobby simply hasn't been going full steam long enough to make judgments on most species, with the best reliable information coming from public marine aquariums. wild specimens, of course, never live an "average" lifespan as the fish is removed from the food chain when it becomes lax or infirm>
Philip

Disease?
My main tank recently crashed due to velvet. Unfortunately I found your site while I was
attempting to fix the problem rather than before the tank was set up. From the FAQ I
see I'm not the only one.
<No my friend>
I'm two weeks into a 6-8 week fallow period for the main tank and have set up a quarantine tank.
The one remaining fish (a blue and gold blenny, looks like a Midas with a blue belly) was moved
to quarantine 2 weeks ago and is doing OK.
Since I have the quarantine tank running I recently purchased another Percula clown and a
flame wrasse. I followed the method described on wetwebmedia.com: acclimation, fresh water
dip with Methylene Blue (2 min each), then into the QTank. Today, due to the reflection off the bottom of the
tank, I noticed the wrasse has a dark patch under his gills; dark blue maybe black. My daughter
mentioned she saw this when he was in the bag, but I missed it. It is eating, but somewhat lethargic.
<Hmm. Maybe nothing.>
I can't see into the gills to check for infection there. It's respiration is slightly elevated. A few times
it was swimming beside the clown similar to the way a tang swims next to a cleaner shrimp.
Do you have any other advice? I'm tired of losing fish.
<If this specimen looks otherwise fine, I would run it through a pH adjusted freshwater dip and place it in your main/display system. Cirrhilabrus species wrasses do take a beating in quarantine (they're quite shy, and eat, need to eat a bunch of "little meals" during the day... I would dip/bathe and place this specimen. Bob Fenner>

Re: disease?
Thanks for the prompt reply. I hope that your family and friends are safe after the events of the past day.
<<Thank you my friend. Sense that no one feels safe.>>
<If this specimen looks otherwise fine, I would run it through a pH adjusted freshwater dip and place it in your main/display system. Cirrhilabrus species wrasses do take a beating in quarantine (they're quite shy, and eat, need to eat a bunch of "little meals" during the day... I would dip/bathe and place this specimen. Bob Fenner>
Rather than letting the tank run without fish for 4 more weeks? I don't want to loose the flame wrasse, but I need to consider the long term health of the main tank. One fish now or many fish in the future. Based on the wetwebmedia.com info, the fallow tank seems to be rather important.
<Oh, sorry for the confusion. Not able to follow so many conversations... do you have another system to move this fish to that has been up a while, has healthy live rock? Bob Fenner>

A quick disease question: Cirrhilabrus
Robert, I want to thank you for answering my past emails. I have really appreciated it.
<You're welcome.>
I have a new Red Sea Regal. It seems to have problems controlling its body, spending almost all of the time head down. Then it spins madly out of control for a few minutes before settling down again. It is eating and otherwise looks fine. No visible wounds or spots. It is breathing heavily, but not in the extreme.
<Yikes... likely either a residual effect of collection... or a brain-involved parasitic disorder... in either case, best to try to keep the animal fed, be patient, hope for self-cure>
By the way, I recently sent you an email about fairy wrasses and whether the flame (jordani) wrasse could sustain higher temperatures over time. I have communicated with a lot of people and am getting the consensus that the jordani wrasse would survive but not thrive at temperatures over 82.
<Yes>
Although the Hawaiian waters are some warmer at the surface, I guess the jordani is deep water fish where the temperatures are cooler. 
<Hmm, yes... but the water does approach the upper seventies in the warmer months where they are found... Dive around Molokini, Maui and see, feel for yourself>
Some
speculated that it is a question of oxygen supply.
<Good point... higher temp. means lower gas solubility, elevated metabolism...>
Anyway, I do not know if
it means anything, but I thought I would pass it along.
<Thank you for this... will post on our www.WetWebMedia.com site under the Cirrhilabrus FAQs. Bob Fenner>
Matt Davis, Seattle

Wrasse Disease
Gentlemen:
<Good, sir. Anthony Calfo in your service>
I have a painted fairy wrasse amongst the 10 inhabitants of my 125G FOWLR tank. All water parameters are OK. Only recently have I noticed that the animal is not eating and is having difficulty closing his mouth. It seems that his breathing may be labored. I see nothing physically wrong as far as spots or markings. I have tried feeding both krill and silversides with no success
<does the fish do any scratching/glancing... and are both gills pumping similarly or is one gill favored or closed?>
Since this animal buries himself at night, I am wondering if there are any problems with my substrate. I say this because about 1 year ago, I had a Christmas wrasse that developed a discoloration on his lip that precluded him from eating as well. The Xmas wrasse also buried himself at night.
<hmmmm... how long have you had the wrasse, and what are your exact water quality parameters?>
I would appreciate your input and suggestions in an effort to save the painted wrasse. I would hate to lose him, as he is a beautiful specimen.
<yes, a magnificent fish. Do you have a quarantine tank to use if necessary?>
Thanks, Mitch
<kindly, Anthony>

Pale patch on wrasse and sick polyps
Hi WWM Crew, my wrasse's caudal peduncle seems to have faded on both sides and lost it's pink coloration normal of a Lubbock's fairy wrasse. The spot is not white (typical of a parasite infection), but clear, and looks like it has lost pigment. 
<symmetrical changes in color indeed usually are not pathogenic indications alone>
There is also a place on the pale patch where it looks raised in places, almost like the skin has peeled up. 
<Hmmm... do look at pictures of fishes in the archives and beyond with "dropsy" like symptoms (bacterial)... a possibility here.>
I've had the wrasse for about 6 months, and this condition has been here for about 3 weeks. I don't know if this helps, but ever since I have had the fish there has been a very small red cut or scar that has never fully healed. This scar is right next to the fading patch of skin. 
<ahhh... indeed an easy entrance for bacteria... do look hard. Consider QT with broad spectrum antibiotics (Furan/Nitrofuran drugs possibly... no Maracyn please for this)>
The only other fish, a cherub angel, is healthy as usual. All invertebrates are doing well (snails, GSP, mushrooms, shrimps, crabs, brittle stars), with the exception of a colony of button polyps that are succumbing to some unknown infection (They are also fading in patches and shriveling up one by one). Have you ever heard of a condition like this? 
<ironically may be bacterial as well... but certainly unrelated>
Should I be worried? Any way to reverse it? 
<take out and scrub with a soft bristled brush like a toothbrush... rinse (discard water) and return to tank with stronger water flow. Feed weekly if they are larger polyps (Palythoa or Protopalythoa species). Perhaps a little iodine in the tank if you have been lax>
Thanks for any help!
<best regards, Anthony>

Scott's Fairy Wrasse with infection
I have Scott's Fairy Wrasse with a huge swollen blister or growth on the bottom of his lip. His color has dulled and his top yellow fins are darkening. I have been reading about diseases and I think this is a bacteria. 
<I would agree that this is likely>
Please let me know what you think and what kind of antibiotic could I treat it with. Thanks.
<A Furazolidone and Nitrofurazone cocktail (like Jungle brand "Fungus Eliminator" at double strength in a bare bottomed QT tank). Medicate three times in 5 days minimum. Also feeding medicated food if the fish will take it would be nice. You may also do a topical swab of the lip (Q-tip carefully... avoid the eyes and gills) when moving the fish to the QT. Iodine or Mercurochrome will work fine (as with people). dilute slightly. Leave in QT for 2-4 weeks (4 preferably) Best regards, Anthony>
Carmina Perez

Peppermint shrimp, Aiptasia & fairy wrasses 11/17/03
Dear Anthony:
<cheers, Connie>
Maybe I missed something here, but my understanding is that the shrimp eat the Aiptasia.  
<you are correct. L. wurdemanni does eat anemones... but it is not exclusive and often nips corals and clams just the same. Not exactly reef-safe in the long run>
We are getting a substantial amount of Aiptasia, really too much to inject it all (and it seems to spread like crazy).  
<its better to control the nutrients/problem (overfeeding, messy feeding/weak water flow, etc) than treat the symptom (the Aiptasia)>
So we got several shrimp.  I can only find one now and he is larger than the others.
<hard to say... they are somewhat secretive... perhaps others are still alive?>
Question:  Are my wrasses shrimp-eaters???  
<if large enough... most are>
They are all small but hungry fish.  I'm afraid I'll ruin my live rock with continuous injections of white vinegar (out of the tank, then rock scrubbed, have been using tap water for this)
Another question:  My husband ordered two Laboutei Fairy Wrasses for me as a gift. On the first shipment, female survived acclimation fine, male died.  Second shipment, another male died.  Before I order another male, is there something over and above the ordinary acclimation for these fish.  
<they are simply just very sensitive fishes to ship. I rarely recommend mail ordering fishes... and I would almost never do so for wrasses>>
Now that I have the female I would really like the male.  I had two gorgeous rosy finned fairy wrasse and the handsome male jumped out of the tank about a month ago.  They are almost impossible to get. Marine Center tells me that the  Laboutei doesn't travel too well.  
<correct indeed>
Please help me Anthony. Ciao Connie
<my advice is to pay the extra for a local retailer to order and acclimate one for a week... well worth it rather than killing cheaper mail order ones <G>.>
PS:  Can't seem to get in touch with person doing arrangements for your visit to Palo Alto in February.  Do you have a phone number for her?
<I do... but I should check with her before sharing it. In the meantime... I recently learned that the tentative schedule is for a trip to Monterey Friday, Meeting Saturday, and then social pot-luck meal/gathering at Cheri's house on Sunday. I'm hoping she'll have something posted on the SeaBay website soon too. Do holler back at me if you don't hear something first :) kindly, Anthony>