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FAQs on Freshwater Aquarium Canister Filtration

Do provide additional/redundant aeration if using only canister filtration.

Fluval 305/405 Questions 07/28/2008
Hello Wet Web Crew, Happy Mid-Summer to you all.
<And to you.>
We have a community 115 gallon tank with 50 fish, swords, mollies, Corys, guppies. Salinity is 1.002. Our filtering is 1 Fluval 305, 1 Fluval 405, and a UGF using 3 Aquaclear 70's (802). We change water once or twice a week to total 40-50%. Parameters are normal.
<OK.>
Question, please, on the mechanical sponge filters in the Fluvals. We now wash them in tap water/rinse/repeat each water change. They look ok, but smell very 'pond water' like. In a good way, not a dead fish way. We strive to keep the nitrates under control, which is a concern in this tank. About the mechanical sponge filters, it comes down to this: Are we ok with our method and the pond smell, or should we clean further by one of these means?
(A) Soak in 3% solution of bleach, let dry, rinse, re-use.
(B) Wash/rinse in tap water, no bleach, let dry, reuse.
Either (A) or (B) would require two sets of sponges so one set can be in use while the other one dries. The common result of (A) or (B) would be drying the sponge. Does drying kill nitrates with or without the bleach?
<Would tend to eschew bleach in favour of hydrogen peroxide if possible. H202 breaks down to water and oxygen quickly, so while a good cleaning agent, it has the benefit of being relatively non-toxic, at least after rinsing. Bleach can be safe if thoroughly rinsed, but even small amounts left in a sponge could be toxic. To be honest though, I'd not worry about the smell of the sponges. All I do is rinse mine until the water that squeezes out of them is clear. While canister filters are sometimes called "nitrate factories", that has to be put into context. They don't create nitrate out of thin air, but out of the nitrogen compounds in the aquarium, i.e., food and decaying organic material. Water changes and tank cleaning should keep this down, and the presence or absence of canister filters won't have any great impact either way. Where they look bad is by comparison to systems that incorporate denitrification, for example living rock in marine tanks. Living rock performs both nitrification and denitrification, so by comparison lowers nitrate levels as well as eliminates ammonia and nitrite. As and when filter sponges get so clogged up you can't clean them, replaced them, but no more than 50% in a 6 week period.>
Next Q: How often should the inlet/outlet hoses to the Fluvals be removed and cleaned?
<As often as you want.>
May a mild solution of bleach in water be used so long as the hoses are rinsed thoroughly?
<Yes, but with the same caveat as above. There are "hose cleaning" tools available, basically similar to bottle brushes but on a longer stem.>
We have a lot of crud blowing into the tank after rinsing all media and changing water in the Fluvals and tank. We think it comes from the hoses as air moves through the hoses on the siphon re-fill.
<Your analysis is correct.>
Next Q: Does the ceramic media need to be replaced at a certain interval? We hear it lasts forever from hobbyists; and that it lasts 1 year from Hagen. We beat it to death swirling/banging it around in a bucket of tank water to clean it once a week. Does this method de-clog the ceramic pores?
<Again, I wouldn't worry too much. Certainly a practical lifespan is measured in years, although quite possibly you get best results by replacing some (50%) a year. Over time the surface area decreases as the crevices (at a microscopic level) get irredeemably clogged with silt and detritus. So after 5 years, the media might only have some percentage of its initial surface area. But in practical terms this never seems to be a major problem, at least not in periods of, say, ten years. I do find that cleaning filter media regularly (4-8 weeks) makes it easier to maintain media in a good state, but I know many experienced aquarists who insist that canister filters are best left alone for as long as possible, and only clean them when water flow obviously drops. Such people maintain clean tanks with relatively large canister filters though; folks who use the smallest canister filter for their busy aquarium are likely to see water pressure drop very rapidly.>
One hint for others on fry: The community fish are producing an incredible number of fry. We found that by leaving the Fluval intakes open, we save fry to raise. They are sucked into the Fluval and found in the bucket each week. We save as many this way as we do using plastic grass mats for them to hide in. They also have a supply of food coming through the filter. They go into our fry tank and survive the filter experience.
<Thanks for the tip!>
Many thanks in advance.
Don and Rosemary
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Fluval 305/405 Questions – 07/28/08
Neale,
Many thanks, yours answers are always to the point, efficient, and make sense.
We are most grateful for your expertise and help.
Cheers,
Don and Rosemary
<Glad I was able to help. Happy fishkeeping! Neale.>

Problems with Fluval filter 7/4/08
Hello
<Hello>
I am having problems with my Fluval filter for my turtle tank! I change it as usual and I have done this for like 6 months now, no problems, well last night, the filter is not priming and sending water back into the filter to fill up properly.
<Is this a sudden change?>
I have checked and re-checked hose connections, interior of filter, properly installed filter media, etc...
I don't know why the water is not being taken in when primed and filling up canister?? The motor seems fine as well, I am frustrated!
Any suggestions would be appreciated,
Ro-
<Short of any obstructions (in the tubing, impeller, media, etc.), you may need to replace the rotor/impeller of the filter. Over time (years), the magnet can lose strength, requiring replacement. Do try cleaning the impeller/rotor and the area it sits in thoroughly with vinegar first. Scott V.>

Re: Problems with Fluval filter 7/4/08
Thank you, I will try that.
Ro-
<Welcome, Scott V.>

Canister filter preference 6/26/08
Hi,
<Wyatt>
Excellent site, great source for reference. I have been researching canister filters for some time now and am looking for advice or opinion concerning which filter is most suitable for my tank. I have a 46 gallon bow front, lightly planted with driftwood, filtered by an Emperor 280 power filter and a tetra whisper in-tank filter (20i). Currently, I only have a small mixture of shrimp in the tank, so the bioload is small. I am planning to maximize the plant growth in my tank, and I believe a canister filter may help me do so.
<Agreed>
I am running an AquaLight compact fluorescent fixture (192 watts, 6700K), with a mixture of SeaChem's Fluorite substrate and natural gravel (majority Fluorite with solid Fluorite bottom 2 inches). I next plan on taking on the co2 aspect of my tank.
<Ahh!>
Power filters are great for oxygenating the water, but in doing so they take out the much needed co2 in my tank. I was considering a canister filter because I can control surface disturbance, and the water isn't exposed to air, and therefore oxygen, throughout filtration. I could also use the out-take for more efficient co2 dissolution as well.
The hang on the back power filters are also an eyesore, and the canister filters attract me for their numerous filtration capabilities. Now to my actual question, after researching filters, I think I have narrowed it down to the Rena Filstar XP3, and the Hagen Fluval 305. The XP3 is rated at 350 GPH, while the 305 is rated at 260 GPH. It seems that Eheim has a reputation for being the best, yet their filters seem underpowered.
<Mmm, not so. Eheim has many fine filters of varied capacity>
The EHEIM 2236 Ecco filters 185 GPH, yet it is rated for tanks up to 80 gallons. That seems underpowered especially considering the fact that that rate will be reduced by media within the filter. A filter with the equivalent GPH rating for a different brand might be suggested for tanks half the size of the aforementioned. Their seem to be numerous discrepancies between brands. I do not want to overdo it as far as filtration goes, but I do want the ability to take on a larger bioload in the future, should I choose to do so. I am also concerned about the current that these filters might produce. I do not want an overpowering current in my planted tank, yet I want sufficient filtration. Which canister filter do you suggest?
Thanks,
Wyatt
<My absolute choice is the Eheim line... Is what I use, have used for forty some years... Very quiet, energy efficient, dependable, powerful... Other manufacturers have tried to "catch up"... like Intel and AMD... they're not quite there. I would go with Eheim for sure. Bob Fenner>

Fluval Filter Media, Water Polishing, Carbon/Chemi-Pure 4/13/08
Hello WWM gang,
Thank you for your great site, wishing you a happy spring.
We have a 125 gallon community tank with 40-45 fish (Corys, swords, mollies, platys). We operate a Fluval 405 and a Fluval 305 and a UG. We change water 2x weekly (25% each time, with a UG vacuum and Fluval clean). Our water is clear, parameters are fine (we do have to watch nitrates). Questions specific to 'filter wool' in the Fluvals and question on use of carbon vs. 'Chemi-Pure' product.
<Neither critical to freshwater fishkeeping, so use whichever you want. I personally consider both a waste of time/money compared with good quality biological media and generous water changes. Compared to these two things, any carbon or equivalent product has a tiny, tiny impact on water quality.>
After the Fluval first stage sponges, in our lower basket we always use 'filter wool' as a fine mechanical filter and change it weekly.
We use charcoal in the next basket up (monthly change) and then two baskets of bio-max ceramic rings (Fluval 405) and one basket of rings (Fluval 305).
<So far pretty normal.>
Fluval says to place filter wool in the bottom basket, and that makes sense to filter particles so they do not clog the ceramics.
<Yes; about the only thing that really matters with a canister filter is that the biological media should never become completely clogged with silt. A bit of silt won't do any harm, but if you see the water flow visibly dropping to less than half its normal rate, you have a potential problem with insufficient O2 getting to the bacteria.>
Fluval says to buy their "polishing pads" and place in the upper basket (meaning after the ceramics if this procedure is followed). Are we doing the same "polishing" the water thing by using 1" thick inexpensive filter wool in the bottom basket only?
<Pretty much yes. Provided the biological media (the ceramic noodles or sponges) stay relatively clear, then you can use whatever you want as the pre-filter. My filters containing nothing more than generic filter wool for the pre-filter and either the original sponges or good quality ceramic noodles as the mechanical and biological media.>
Is the Fluval product (we have not seen it) a finer filter material than the generic filter wool? Do we accomplish the same thing by folding the wool
into a thicker bundle?
<Better to use a thinner layer you change more often, because too much will reduce the flow of water. But in any case, experimentation and observation will provide all the answers you need.>
Does the filter wool need to fill the entire basket, or is one inch in the bottom of the 3" tall basket OK?
<A thin layer should be fine.>
Do we need to add a Fluval "polishing pad" to the top basket or can we stay with our method?
<Your method is fine provided [a] the water quality is good (i.e., zero ammonia/nitrite) and [b] the biological media doesn't clog up too fast.>
Carbon/Chemi-Pure: Your site advice in most FAQs says dump carbon and fill with ceramics; but also suggests in other FAQs using Chemi-Pure in place of carbon.
<There's a difference of opinion among some of us as to the value of Carbon (and equivalent products). I'm very much anti-carbon in freshwater tanks. For a start, it's benefits are trivially small compared with water changes. So it removes "organics" from the water. Fine. So does a 50% water change each week, at lower cost, and with the added benefit of removing nitrate too. Carbon stops the water going yellow. Great. So do water changes. And so on. The big negatives to carbon are that it is [a] expensive over the long term when used such that it "works" at all, i.e., 100% changes of carbon on a 2-4 week basis; and [b] it removes medications from the water. This latter has resulted in the deaths of goodness knows how many fishes that people treated for Ick or whatever and then were surprised when their fish kept getting sick.>
First, should we forget carbon and Chemi-Pure altogether and opt for more ceramics? If the answer is 'maybe', what are the deciding factors?

If answer is more ceramics, please answer this Q anyway: Chemi-Pure specs say it lasts 4-6 months. Is this true?
<Highly doubtful. All these sorts of estimates of chemical media longevity depend upon the context. In an under-populated tank receiving massive, regular water changes then perhaps yes, this sort of estimate can reflect reality. But in the average tank with lots of fish getting lots of food and relatively modest water changes, I'd be highly surprised if the chemical media really worked that well. Chemical media manufacturers rely on the fact that you can't possibly test their products and pull them up on it. How do you know when the media is "full"? What test would you use? They could be selling you dried macaroni and it wouldn't make any difference -- you're getting a product that you can't observe working, can't measure its efficacy, and can't tell if its doing nothing at all! No wonder they love to sell the stuff!>
If so, what is this material and how is it different from carbon/charcoal?
<In practical terms, very little. Chemi-Pure contains chemicals that (are said to) remove a few inorganic pollutants including phosphate. Given that phosphate isn't a toxic chemical in freshwater tanks receiving regular water changes, this is more a marketing gimmick than anything else. You should always remember that this stuff is mostly just charcoal, and costs virtually nothing to make. The profit margins are terrific, and hence aquarium hardware manufacturers are obviously keen on selling the stuff. Back in the old days when people avoided doing water changes, carbon served a useful role removing tannins and organic acids from the water. Without it, tanks often looked rather yellow. But in this enlightened age, it's redundant, and nothing carbon does isn't better done with a 25-50% water change at the weekend.>
Cheers, thanks!
Rosemary
<Cheers, Neale.>

Canister filter set up -03/27/08
Good afternoon,
I'm in the (now frustrating!) process of setting up a canister filter (OTTO 450G) for my new aquarium. I've got everything seemingly ready but it keeps just pumping water into the filter but not pushing it out. I've hunted around a bit and read through the manual but it seems I'm doing the right thing (Which I obviously am not). I've filled the filter with water by syphoning it full with my 'IN' hose but when I turn both hoses to the 'on' position and plug it in they both suck water. I've tried differing combinations of empty and full hoses (To attempt to avoid suction) but no water ever seems to leave! Thanks for your time
<If you've never set up a canister filter before, or not one of this type at least, I'd heartily recommend doing a dummy run by the kitchen sink. Fill the sink first. Put the in and out pipes into the sink, prime the filter (e.g., by sucking water into the filter) and then switch it on. This'll let you check that everything is working properly without the awkwardness of an aquarium cabinet to get in the way. What you're looking for is to check that [a] you have the taps set to the "open" position and that you have [b] properly primed the filter. It is very easy not to do both -- done this many times! Once you have the thing working by the sink, switch it off and move the filter to the aquarium (empty it of water as best you can, but a little chlorinated water in the filter or pipes won't do any harm to the fish). Now you know how to configure the filter, setting it up again should be a breeze. Do remember that canister filters work at reduced efficiency when placed UNDER the aquarium, and if the distance between the canister and the tank is too great, the pump can't push the water up into the tank. This is the issue of "head pressure" and one reason you need a slightly bigger than expected filter when you put it underneath the aquarium and why small canister filters sometimes disappoint in terms of turnover. Cheers, Neale>

Re: Canister filter set up -03/27/08
Yeah, I've tried this and managed to get water flowing the right way but water still leaks (Glad it wasn't where my tank is set up, there're lots of bookshelves nearby!). I think it's a sealing issue perhaps? Thanks though.
<If the filter is leaking, do check you have the seals on the canister and/or taps fitted properly. It is very easy to put the O-ring that seals the main chamber at the wrong "level" around the motor half of the canister, so when you push it into the receptacle part of the canister it doesn't make a good seal. Dust and kinks can cause similar problems, and rubber items more than a couple of years old can decay and may need replacing. This latter is especially true if the rubber item was used and then stored for a long period. Make sure the hoses are securely tightened around the taps and any other fittings. Take some time to establish where the leak is coming from: the taps, the canister itself, or someplace else. If all else fails and it is a brand new filter, you may want to take the thing into the store and replace it. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Filtration, FW -03/27/08
Do you believe I could use eheim 2028 strictly for mechanical filtration and an emperor 400 for bio and chemical?. Tank is a standard 90 gallon with med load of cichlids. Thank you.
<Provided the turnover of these filters when combined is at least 6 times the volume of the tank in turnover per hour, yes, this should work. So read up the turnover rates of those two filters, add them together, and then making allowances for overstocking, whether the canister filter is alongside or underneath the tank, etc. But dedicating an entire filter to mechanical filtration is pointless. 50:50 mechanical/biological media is ample. If you're keeping, for example, Tanganyikan cichlids, you need very good water quality to have any hope of success. Cheers, Neale.>

Filter Questions, FW 3/17/08
Hi, Everybody. This is my 1st time asking for your help directly, though I've been reading & learning from you folks for a year & a half.
<Cool.>
Thanks for all the great info! I have a 29g FW tank with 2 Blue Gouramis, 2 Pictus Catfish and 1 Blood Parrot waiting to be moved to a larger tank, either 90g or 120.
<OK.>
I have an Emperor 280 HOT and an Eheim ECCO 2234 for filtering. My very 1st question is; can I, or should I put something like EhfiMech in the bottom of the ECCO and still use the coarse filter pad and only the EhfiSubstrat Pro with the fine white filter pad and use the Emperor with its replacement filters and BioWheel with extra charcoal?
<Use whatever mix of filter media you like, PROVIDED you understand what each one does and maintain it in an appropriate way. All filters need at least some biological media and some mechanical media, but chemical media are very much optional and depend on the situation. See here to save me spelling it out:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwfiltrmedart.htm
For what it's worth, carbon is a waste of money/space in a freshwater aquarium.>
Or remove the white filter pad in the ECCO and use filter floss with the replacement filters in the Emperor? The ECCO is new for me.
<You can indeed use filter floss to replace filter pads once they are too dirty to clean.>
I have an Eheim Pro II on my 35g hex (my Community Tank), which is terrific with another Emperor 280 and I see that the ECCO does not use EhfiMech. I just want to get this right. I had been using a Penguin HOT with the Emperor until I got my Blood Parrot, it's name is Penguin. But since she moved in, the HOT's can't keep up with the tank anymore. So I was given the ECCO. It's just temporary anyhow until I get the larger tank.
<The ECCO filters are good.>
Which brings me to more questions; choosing a filter for a 90-120g tank, I need some expert advice. What do overflows, sumps and refugiums do?
<In a standard issue community freshwater tank, the answer is not much so don't worry about them.>
Of course I want 1. what is most efficient and 2. easiest to maintain.
<Provided a filter(s) gives you at least 4 times the volume of the tank in turnover per hour, and ideally 6 times, then what sort of filter you use doesn't matter much. Some are better in some situations than others, e.g., undergravels don't work well with plants. But beyond that, choose according to price, brand, convenience, ease of maintenance. Eheim filters have a very good reputation, so many folks consider them worth the little bit extra. But I've used all sorts of filters and rarely found them wanting.>
And if all goes very well, I think I'll be brave enough to convert the 29g to saltwater.
<Before you do anything else, buy a book about Marine fishkeeping and read it. While much is similar to freshwater fishkeeping, there's other things that are very different. Bob's 'Conscientious Marine Aquarist' book is very good and highly recommended.>
Oh, and just a note: I have a gorgeous and very happy Betta, Purple, who lives in a 3g Eclipse in my kitchen where he is constantly showing off! He lives with 2 Dwarf African Frogs and has never seemed so content.
<Good stuff.>
My last quick comment; If you live with someone who is very shy, get a fish tank and have them help take care of it, or at least pick out the new inhabitants. This works great for my kids when people come to visit. It even grabs my hyperactive husband's attention!
<Sounds like good advice to me! My experiences/observations concur with yours. Thanks for sharing.>
Thanks millions! Jo Anne
<Cheers, Neale.>

Canister filter and gravity feed 3/9/08
Thanks guys for all the useful info. I could not find this answer anywhere, so here goes.
Setting up a 75g freshwater hex tank. The system is plumbed for reef ( 1.5" overflow and 2 x 1" returns) which is not optimal for my setup - angel, discus
<Mmmm, there are some (good) reasons to not mix these...>
and a few small friends. I'm understanding that a true sump/fuge would allow to much de-gassing. This will be a planted tank with Eco-complete or equivalent substrate. So the question - can I employ a canister filter (probably the new Marineland C series 360) using the gravity feed from the overflow and going back to the returns. Would this put additional "stress" on the o-ring seal in the canister ?
<Won't be a problem.>
It seems that it should just help increase flow rate thru the canister. The canister itself could sit in the unused sump in case of leak or o-ring failure. I'd prefer to keep all the plumbing, etc. hidden and not hanging off the back of the tank and this seems like an easy solution ( therefore: it wont work.... ). The canister, if used "normally", is supposed to do about 360gph. I would think this setup would increase that a little, but it should still be a decent flow rate for this size freshwater tank. Your insight, experience and general intelligence would be greatly appreciated.
Greg
<These tools are made sufficient to take the height of pressure, coming/going through the length/s of tubing supplied. No problem. Bob Fenner>

Question for canister fittings, FW 2/16/08
I have been trying for the past 2 weeks to get my new canister put on my 75 gallon tank. Well the place I bought it from said I needed to buy 2 1/2 x1/2 male threaded barbs that were pvc or nylon, I did but the barb end is to small and now is leaking even with the hose clamps. I went to several home improvement stores and all the plumbing places around and found I need a 5/8 barbed end the only ones they have are steel and brass ones. I have several expensive cichlids Would it harm my them if I used the brass fittings??
<I don't think you don't want to have any metal in contact with the water except stainless steel or titanium; other metals are too likely to corrode, and the dissolved metal ions can be toxic to the fish. I don't understand why your canister filter needs these attachments: all commercially available canister filters are sold with complete sets of pipes and fixtures, and these should work fine. If something is leaking or missing, you should either return the filter (if new) or else obtain spares via the manufacturer (if second hand). Cheers, Neale.>

Canister vs. Hang-on, FW 01/13/2008
I have been looking at your site, and have seen filtration questions answered differently. My tank is a 30 gallon with a H.O.T.. Magnum and a double bio-wheel by Marineland. Not many fish as to an ammonia spike. I have a Fluval 304 and a Fluval 404 that I could use. My question is-Canister vs. Hang-On. Would I be better off using one of the canisters? Someone told me the Bio-Wheel is not a good choice, and others say it is. Could you please give me your opinion on this. Thank you for your time.
<Greetings. There's no short answer to this: it's a case of "horses for courses". All things being equal, a tropical aquarium needs about 4 times the volume of the tank in turnover per hour when small things like Neons and Guppies are kept; that goes up to about 6 times for larger fish such as Goldfish, and as much as 10 times for sensitive or mess creatures, such as big catfish, marines, Oscars, and so on. So a 100 litre aquarium with small fish needs filtration that equals at least 400 litres of turnover per hour. So far, so good. But not all filters excel at the same things. Canister filters are very good at mechanical filtration. Water is sucked in under pressure, forced through sponges or whatever, and then back into the tank. But because the canister is closed to the atmosphere the only oxygen it gets is through the water, and the bacteria can easily used up this supply as the water goes through the filter media. End result is that canister filters are less effective at biological filtration than filters that are open to the aquarium or open to the air, such as trickle filters or wet-and-dry filters. On the flip side, low-pressure trickle and wet-and-dry filters aren't so good at trapping solid waste. They don't generate much pressure, and the water doesn't pass through much mechanical filter media. Your hang-on-the-back filter is some sort of low-pressure filter, with a pump pulling water quite gently into the box where it sluices through chambers open to the air. That's great for biological filtration, but less good for mechanical filtration. The "ideal" is ultimately about choosing what your fish need most. If you're keeping Goldfish, then mechanical filtration is paramount, since these fish produce a lot of silt, partly as faeces, but also because they root about the bottom of the tank all the time. But if you were keeping marines, where tanks are lightly stocked but the livestock very sensitive to ammonia, then biological filtration is the prime issue. Realistically, provided you adhere to the 4x, 6x, or 10x rules outlined above, it shouldn't matter too much, but one idea to use two types of filter, so that you get the best of both worlds. Hope this helps, Neale.>

Hi! Questions about Eheim media... 1/6/2008
Hi! First off, thanks for all of the VERY helpful information on your site. I've been spending a lot of time researching things before I set up my newest freshwater aquarium, and your site has helped a great deal. Thank you!
<You're welcome.>
I have a new 90-gallon tank in my new home that has been waiting for me to have enough money to work on. I am finally ready to start.
<Very good.>
I've had two 10-gallon and a 29-gallon freshwater tanks before, and I loved them. I had very good success with them. But I was using Bio-wheel over-the-rim filters in them, and now since I am setting up a 90-gallon, I am going to be using my first canister filter. I'm a bit nervous about it :)
<Don't be. Canister filters have improved dramatically over the years, and most are very easy to install and maintain. The two things to always have at hand are a bucket and a towel though, because even though modern filters come with taps and valves to prevent leaking, there's always a little water left behind that can get out. I highly recommend setting up your filter one time with the tubes stuck in a bucket of water. Do this in the kitchen or on the porch. Go through the process of setting up and then taking apart. It's much easier to learn this by practising first, than figuring it all out when the filter is wedged in a cabinet under the aquarium!>
I purchased an Eheim Professional III model 2180 (the one with the heating element). I'm waiting for it to arrive, but I'd like your expertise on what kind of media I should fill it with. I've searched the FAQs and articles, and found that Bob recommends Eheim's Grob and Fein Flocken, but I am getting quite confused...
<Every aquarist has favoured media, but the bottom line is they're all pretty good, and if you decide to buy according to budget and availability, you can't really go wrong. That said, there are a few brands that get the nod in terms of being that little bit better than the rest. But any such differences will be minor, and not the sorts of things that end up with dead fish!>
First, the Eheim products all have non-US-friendly names to them...
<German products, German names... I'd imagine most Germans find words like "Hummer" and "Pop Tart" pretty silly sounding, too! Anyway, the Ehfi- part of the name is some sort of standard prefix, like "Mc" at McDonalds. The second part of the name describes the media. So EhfiSubstrat is Eheim Substrate (='Substrat' im Deutsch) for biological media; EhfiTorf is Eheim Peat (='Torf'); and so on. In the same way McNuggets are McDonalds brand of mechanically-recovered minced chicken carcass shapes bound together with salt and skin.>
second, the Grob and Fein Flocken is a little hard to find... and third, being that this is my first canister filter, I'd like your expertise on what I should fill it with, and just as important, in what order (from top to bottom).
<This is quite easy to figure out. Look at the flow of water first. You put mechanical media (media to remove silt) in the first compartment(s), and biological media (media to remove ammonia) in the later compartment(s). The idea is you want to remove the silt before the silt suffocates the bacteria. Simple as that. Beyond this basic rule, you can pick and choose whatever you want.>
I wouldn't waste your time if I didn't look throughout the FAQs already for a nice breakdown of what media you recommend in it and in what order. The info I found is kind of recommends products here and there, but what I'd find very helpful is if you could recommend something like:
Top layer: Ehfi-ooga (this will trap large particles)
Next layer: Ehfi-booga (this will do x)
Next layer: Ehfi-oogey (this will do y)
Bottom layer: Ehfi-boogey (this will polish)
...etc :)
<I'd go with some sort of filter wool for the first compartment, coarse filter media for the second, and then the last two both biological filter media. Using Eheim products, that'd be something like EhfiSynth, EhfiMech, and then two lots of EhfiSubstrat (or EhfiSubstrat pro). But there's no need to restrict to just Eheim brands. Siporax filter media is at least as good for biological filtration, and filter wool is much the same whoever makes it, and the point to filter wool is that you CHANGE it regularly. If I was keeping clean fish (like tetras) then going with 1 x mechanical media and 3 x biological media would be possible. But if the fish are messy (like cichlids) then 2 x mechanical media and 2 x biological media is more sensible.>
Thanks SO MUCH for your help and your continued service to the fish community. It's very much appreciated!
- Chris
<Hope this helps, Neale.>

Using a brand new filter on a seasoned tank 10/3/07
HI,
<Hello,>
I have a 75 gallon tank. I had a Eheim Filter that just decided to not run correctly no matter what we do new parts etc...
<Too bad.>
I went and got a new Fluval filter last night. The place I bought the filter told me to keep both filters running for about two weeks to get the bacteria into the new filter before I stop running the old filter.
<Not the way I'd solve this problem. Much easier to simply take all the mature media from the old Eheim and put them into the new Fluval. Problem solved.>
The problem is the old filter is blowing air, lots of air. It will run ok for 1/2 hour or so and then a big burst of air comes out in to the tank and needles to say a lot of micro bubbles with it.
<Ah, seen this happen. It usually isn't the filter per se, but how the filter is set up. Air (obviously) can't magically get into a watertight filter. But if you configure the inlet (the "sucking" pipe) somewhere that gets air bubbles, those air bubbles get sucked into the filter. Certain canister filter designs don't handle this problem well, and the air bubbles collect at the top of the canister, often around the impeller (the spinning blades). Eventually the top of the filter gets so full of bubbles that some bubbles break away and go into the outlet stream of water. There's usually a lot of rattling noise as well. Anyway, the solution is to re-jig the position of the filter inlet. You also need to take great care you are reassembling the filter properly, such that you aren't trapping air inside the canister to begin with.>
It is stressing the fish out, they run for their lives (so to speak) when this happens. Last night I had both filters running but the fish started to stress out swimming fast and changing color ect....
<Hmm. Can't really imagine it's doing them much harm. Compared with, say, heavy rain or ocean waves, a filter blowing bubbles is pretty trivial.>
My question is, is it ok to just run the new filter alone, is there anything I should do to the filter, what is the correct thing to do.
<As above, take the media from the old filter and install in the new.>
I have both filters off right now,
<No! Never, ever switch off a filter. Anything more than, say 20 minutes, can kill the bacteria.>
also could the fish have stressed out do to the two filters running could this be to much filtration for a 75 gallon tank at one time.
<Not a problem. Aquarium fish will tolerate as much as 10 times the volume of the water in turnover per hour. It is very difficult to have too much filtration. Compared with the flow of a river, filters are insipid trickles.>
The fish were so stressed that I have both filters off right now and this calmed them down.
<They get used to it. My freshwater tank has ~10 the volume of the tank in turnover per hour. It took the fish an hour or so to get used to the extra water movement when I installed the third filter, but they're fine now.>
I will wait for your response until I do anything with the filter. Thanks in advance for your help.
Deb
<Hope this helps, Neale>

75 gallon FW canister filter advice 9/12/07
Good evening; I have learned so much from this site, saying "thank you" seems cheap... but thank you for all your knowledge and help!!!!
<No need to feel cheap. There's a tip jar on the front page.>
I have a 75 gallon freshwater tank (3 years running) with the following livestock: 2 "Colombian catfish" (10 inches each - eventually going to brackish), 1 Hypostomus plecostomus (my hypothesis, 10 inches), 1 silver dollar (2.5 inches), and 1 black ghost knife (11 inches).
<Almost certainly not H. plecostomus, which doesn't get traded much (at all?) these days. More probably some species of Pterygoplichthys, such as Pt. pardalis. Potentially reaches around 45-50 cm (~18 inches) so plan ahead. As you say, the Colombian sharks -- Sciades seemanni -- need brackish water. They aren't fussy about salinity, since they move around estuaries constantly, but something upwards of SG 1.005 seems to bring out the best in them.>
I have only rock and driftwood, no plants.
<Silver dollars would eat the plants anyway.>
As you may guess, there is a lot of waste going through this system and it's all I can do to keep up with my poor Whisper 5 hanging filter.
<Agreed. Hang-on-the-back filters really only make sense on tanks containing small tropicals, like tetras and Corydoras. Once you start getting fish that produce a lot of solid waste, you need something pressurised that creates much more suction. This is where canister filters come into their own.>
It's time to upgrade to a canister, but there are a few important things I don't fully understand; I have heard a lot of people recommend both Fluval and Eheim, but what else BESIDES the canister filter (and its media) are needed?
<Nothing. Some folks like to combine canisters with undergravel filters to create a reverse flow filter. Since you're not growing plants, this would be a good option. What these filters are is a system where the canister filter sucks in the water, passes it through a series of mechanical filter media (floss, sponges, etc.) and then pumps the water out into the undergravel filter. The water rises through the gravel, where the bacteria live, and that's where biological filtration takes place. The results provided by these filters can be extremely good, and the additional cost is small (an undergravel filter plate, the uplift tube to connect the plate to the canister filter outlet pipe, and some gravel). Because only water cleaned of solid waste goes into the gravel bed, the gravel stays clean. Also, the water rising through the gravel pushes solid waste out and into the water column, where the canister filter can remove it. If this all sounds like too much work, then a plain vanilla canister filter will do just fine.>
I have heard of people using their canisters in conjunction with hanging filters, bio wheels, "spray bars", and doubling up their filtration to something way beyond the capacities of their tanks.
<None of these things make a significant different to the loading of a tank or water quality. Anyone who thinks adding a spray bar to their filter means they can keep 100% more fish is deluding themselves. The limiting factors are the bacteria on the filter media (admittedly some media are better than others) and the availability of oxygen in the water. But even swapping out generic filter media supplied with your filter for something high-end like Siporax is only going to have a small impact on water quality.>
So in short: can you recommend a filtration SYSTEM for this 75-gallon freshwater tank using a Fluval 405 for the aforementioned livestock, or is the Fluval 405 enough filtration on its own?
<The golden rule is TURNOVER. The Fluval 405 offers 340 gallons per hour turnover. That's a "nominal" rating and will go down, significantly, once you add filter media, and down even further once the media has become a bit clogged. It is very common for turnover to drop to 50% the nominal rating. You'll see this yourself -- after it's been running a few weeks, the pressure of the water squirting out the outlet becomes much less than before. Anyway, Your tank is 75 gallons. The minimum safe turnover for a freshwater aquarium is 4 times the volume per hour. In other words, in your case, 300 gallons per hour. The Fluval 405 just exceeds this by a small margin. In other words, it's adequate for a freshwater aquarium but not generous. Many aquarists, myself included, would suggest 6 to 8x the volume of the tank in turnover per hour when keeping big, messy fish. If I was you, I'd either combine it with a reverse flow undergravel to boost filtration, or add a second canister filter.>
Can you recommend a suitable Eheim canister filter for this tank?
<Choose one according to your budget and turnover issues. I'd be looking at using one or more canister filters of whatever brand that produced 450-600 gallons per hour turnover.>
What are the benefits of the additional filtration systems, such as the bio wheels and hanging filters, once I have installed a single canister filter?
<Provided you get the necessary turnover, all filters can work well. There's no reason at all why you can't combine multiple different filter designs. People tend to prefer to have one big filter instead of three little ones because it is tidier and easy to maintain the tank, but there's no real practical advantages either way.>
What media would best be used in my canister filter?
<Again, choose according to your budget. The differences in performance between standard and deluxe media is slight. Using deluxe media won't let you keep any extra fish, and using generic media won't make it impossible to have perfect water quality. The deluxe media tends to last longer, be easier to clean, and supports denser populations of filter bacteria (under lab conditions at least) but the differences either way will be modest. Regular water changes and an appropriate schedule of filter cleaning are far more important issues.>
And will the same setup be sufficient for a brackish tank of the same size?
<Yes.>
Also, as a side-question... my silver dollar is healthy, but will he benefit from having more of his own kind to school with? Can my 75-gallon tank
handle a couple more dollars?
<Yes and yes. Given the Colombian sharks will be coming out soon, I can't see any reason not to add four (or more) silver dollars to your set up so that they have nice school. They'll be more playful and altogether better aquarium fish.>
Thank you again... your trusted advice really shapes my decisions., as I'm
sure many of your readers will attest to :)
~Meech
<Cool. Good luck, Neale>

Re: 75 gallon FW canister filter advice 9/13/07
Wow, 450-600 gph in a 75-gallon tank?! How do you think a canister filter,
that has a turnover of 225 gph, ends up being rated by the manufacturers for
up to a 100 gallon tank, if that's so far from the truth?
<In exactly the same way cereal manufacturers say there are 27 servings inside one small box, and the way motor car manufacturers say their cars do 50 miles to the gallon. The marketing department makes something up under the best possible conditions, without any connection whatsoever to the real world.>
It's harder than ever now to trust what I see printed on the packaging. :(
<Indeed. Trust me, my estimates are widely held in the hobby and not at all excessive. My own community tank has the equivalent of 10x turnover per hour, and still has gunk sitting on the bottom thanks to a Panaque catfish that could poop for Britain at the Olympics. Big plecs are astonishingly messy, and any attempts to economise filtration on a Plec tank invariably results in an aquarium with at the very least a very dirty substrate and silt-laden water.>
I have done bit more research since your response and narrowed my choice
down to 2 possible options of similar base cost: The Fluval 405, and the
Eheim Classic 2217... though my TRUE preference would be to purchase an
Eheim 2128 with the built-in heater. :)
<The filters with built-in heaters are NOT always salt-proof. Check before dropping down the cash if you intend to use this filter in a brackish aquarium. That said, filters with built-in heaters are wonderful things for lots of reasons.>
Does either the Fluval 405 or the Eheim Classic 2217 have anything superior to the other, OR would you ultimately recommend the Eheim 2128 over both of these filters?
<The bottom line is that choosing between Fluval and Eheim is like choosing between Coke and Pepsi or Apple and Microsoft. Each brand has its own -- often fanatical -- advocates. I think broadly speaking Eheim tends to have a better reputation for reliability and longevity. But that said, I've often used Fluval filters and never yet had problems with them. The one Eheim canister filter I had was incredibly noisy, but that certainly doesn't seem to be other people's experiences of them. To be honest, when I shop, I tend to go with whatever is best priced at the time, and look out for end-of-line specials and other discounts. That may not be the "best" way to shop, but it works for me. That said, I tend to use multiple filters on one tank, so if one filter does fail, it wouldn't be a disaster. If you're choosing one filter you want to last for 10+ years, then quite possibly spending the extra on an Eheim might make sense. I would warmly encourage you to look at reverse flow undergravel filters though -- coupled with a canister filter, they generate a huge amount of filtration, and would be ideally suited to your selection of fish. They're a trifle fiddly to set up, but once built, are basically maintenance free compared with traditional UG filters that need a lot of care. Anyway, the Fluval 405 is a good filter at 340 GPH. The Eheim 2217 offers 264 GPH, so is substantially "weaker" in absolute terms, even if it is perhaps better in terms of design and manufacture. The Eheim 2128 offers 277 GPH. So of the three, the big Fluval offers the most raw filtration and realistically is the only one that could *on its own* be recommended for use in a 75 gallon tank containing relatively large and messy fishes. Couple one of the smaller Eheim filters with a second filter and things might look different. Even coupling one of them with a plain vanilla undergravel filter drive by its own powerhead(s) would do the job very well. But the bottom line is that the "magic number" for you is 4x75 = 300 gallons per hour. Nothing below that is really worth bothering with.>
Thank you again :) This isn't an easy decision for me!
~M
<Hope this helps, Neale>

Re: 75 gallon FW canister filter advice – 09/13/07
Thank you, Neale, for your wisdom and advice! I feel like my brain gained some good weight since yesterday. Since you are suggesting reverse-UG filtration in conjunction with the Fluval 405 (which I will go with), I will have to do some studying on UGF setup.
Again, thank you for your valuable time. :) One day I hope to have the courage and knowledge to come to these decisions on my own.
~Meech (PA, USA)
<Thanks for the thanks. Reverse-flow filters are discussed in most aquarium books, and I'm sure there are articles about them here at WWM if you root about a bit. They're "old school" but they work well, and nothing beats them in terms of the price-performance ratio. Good luck, Neale.>

Looking for a quiet pump 7/14/07
Hi there,
I have a Tenecor 170 gallon, flat back hexagon and I am planning to use a pump with an ocean clear canister. What is the quietest pump it is very important because the tank is in the bedroom. I am going to have a freshwater tank with goldfishes and koi. Is that the best filtration or should I just use two Eheim 2028 canister? I wish to have crystal clear water. Also I have two fluval fx 5 running on my 75 gallon tank now and there is a humming noise to it. I wish to have a system that is very quiet for this 180 gallon tank of freshwater fish. Thank you.
<Greetings. You do not need to have an air pump. All an air pump does is circulate the water. It doesn't add oxygen to the water (the idea the bubbles help somehow is wrong). If you have a strong electric filter that circulates the water, the air pump is obsolete. All you need to do is make sure the electric filter is pushing the water all around the tank and that there's a bit of turbulence at the surface as well. Often, having two filters, one squirting water downwards and the other towards the surface of the water works well. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Looking for a quiet external pump 7/15/07
Dear Neale,
Thank you for the reply. I did not mean an air pump but I was asking more the type of external pump to be attached to the Ocean Clear Canister that is quiet. A friend said that Gen-X pump is quiet and it would be a good external pump for the Ocean Clear canister and would that be a good choice or do you have any suggestions? Do you like Ocean Clear canister or Nu Clear canister?
I have two brand new 170 gallon tanks and I intend to keep African cichlids in one of them and goldfish and koi in the other. Your help is most appreciated and thank you for the information on the air pump. I thought bubbles produce oxygen but I was wrong. Cheers and thank you so much.
<Greetings. I'm not familiar with either of those filters so can't comment from experience. Possibly Bob or one of the other American aquarists here will have comments they might pass on. What I can say is I've often had tanks in the bedroom and never noticed canister filters being a problem. Properly maintained they should be more or less silent. Cheers, Neale.>
<<This make/brand of filter are larger, pressurized canisters... that require a good deal of pressure, coupled with moderate flow (and even then frequent maintenance)... These are well made units at any length, and do have a good deal of surface area... I encourage you to purchase two sets of the canister elements from the get go... to have one in use, the other for light-bleach washing, air-drying in-between service intervals for switch out (will save much time/clogging, and replacement of the units)... The pump line mentioned is fine... Other good choices are gone over here: http://wetwebmedia.com/pumpselmar.htm
and the linked files in the Related FAQs above. Bob Fenner>

Re: Looking for a quiet external pump 7/17/07
http://wetwebmedia.com/clncarta.htm
Dear Bob,
<Metsing>
Thank you for the wonderful advise.
<advice>
Same two tanks of 170 gallon but I think that I might go with either one Nu Clear 530 or the Ocean Clear. Do you have a preference on this two canister?. I will need two cartridges, as advised thank you.
<These products are almost identical... I would go with whichever is less expensive, more readily available>
I had a listen to the Gen-X and it is not as quiet as I liked.
<Good and yes>
I am now going to change my mind and have the two tanks as saltwater instead of freshwater tanks with fish only.
<Oh!>
What is the quietest pump.....sequence Reeflo, Eheim, velocity or please advise I need a really quiet pump?
<The first two are very quiet>
And also I need to
have a quiet and cooling pump because I am not going to have a chiller.
Thank you again so much.
<Again, our input re this issue is posted: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
the light blue tray... BobF>

Canister filter preference?? 6/10/07
I am going to be setting up a 150 gal freshwater tank.
<Very good.>
I thought i would use 2 emperor 400's and 1 or 2 canister filters.
<The Emperor is a fine filter in terms of biological filtration, but its design is somewhat limited for mechanical filtration. (Specifically, it doesn't have a huge amount of suction at the bottom of the tank and only limited capacity for mechanical filter media.) So, you definitely need to supplement it with one or more canister filters to provide proper circulation of the water, especially at the lower levels of the tank. This depends somewhat on the fishes you intend to keep: mechanical filtration is relatively unimportant if you're keeping small fish like neons and guppies. But if you are keeping cichlids, plecs, and so on that are large and messy, you need lots of mechanical filtration. Otherwise your tank just ends up covered in detritus and silt.>
I have never had experience with canister filters although i have had fish tanks for years successfully...
<OK, the basic rule here is for small fish (guppies) aim for turnover around at least 4 times per hour, i.e., in your case 600 gallons per hour. For larger fish (plecs) you need at least 5-6 times turnover, i.e., 750-900 gallons per hour depending on the size and messiness of the fish. Now, while any aquarium filter will quote its turnover on the packaging, these quotes are "optimal" values assuming no filter media and no head pressure. As soon as you stick filter media in the tank (reducing water flow) and place the filter below the aquarium (making it work against gravity) you can lop 10-20% right off the turnover quote. After a few weeks in use, clogged filters may even be running as low as 50% optimal turnover. So, provided you take all this into consideration, you can go ahead and choose whatever filters you want.>
Could you please tell me what canister filters you would recommend best for my application?
<Everyone has their favourite brands. Eheim are probably the brand most highly respected and considered to be the most reliable. Something like the Eheim 2260 would be about right for a 150 gallon aquarium with largish fish coupled with one or more of the Emperor 400 units. But even the "budget" filters are good machines and worth considering. You probably want to look out for things like ease of maintenance, i.e., does it have a full set of taps on the pipes for easy disconnection, or a built-in primer to help re-start the water flow. I happen to prefer filters with spaces that allow you to add whatever media you want rather than force you to use the manufacturer's own filter cartridges. Some filters have built-in heaters; these can be very useful on tanks where large fish are being kept. Big cichlids especially sometimes become destructive, and heaters are fragile and easily broken.>
There's thanks very much!!!!
<Hope this helps! Neale>

Bio filtering question, canister mod. 3/23/07
Tell me if this is crazy, or actually might be good.
<Okay...>
I just bought new canister filters, upgraded from hang on back. I am still learning, but I have heard (as in the bio-wheel) that for bio filters, they should have water and oxygen.
<Yes>
So not sure how they are getting enough oxygen if put in closed canister system.
<How who?>
but... here is the crazy idea. I have an old canister laying around. I was thinking of drilling a small hole in bottom edge, running in air line and air stone, sealing it real good, then filling with bio material. I could then have small stream of air injecting into this canister while the water was running thru it.

I would use this canister as second in-line from first canister (first filter doing the mechanical filtering). Am I crazy, or might this just work???
<Not worth it IMO... for three reasons... the likelihood of the airline failing... you siphoning out the tank... Secondly, the wear/tear on the pump motor with the air mixed in... Lastly for the danger of induced emphysematosis... excess gas/embolism>
One final question. I am still confused about filtering order after the mechanical part. some places say bio then chemical, others say chemical then bio. Does it make a difference?
Thanks
Rich
<Can make a difference in overall efficiency... Chemical should almost always come last... depending on the set-up, intent, the other two might be first/second. Bob Fenner>

Via Aqua Filters
Hi
This is a stupid question but I just moved into a house and the previous tenant had 2 turtles in a tank he said he would come back in a few days and pick the turtles up and never did. I don't know any thing about filters or how to keep marine life in general! Any way the water is all dirty so I figured the filter and tank needs cleaning. The tank has a Via Aqua filter but I have no Idea where to begin and If I take It apart water just flows out. I have been to all my local pet stores etc and no one know of these filters. I need to do some thing I feel cruel keeping these turtles in the tank like that.
How do I go about Cleaning these filters?
<Mmm, easy enough... disassemble, rinse... sometimes renew activated carbon to rid the smell of those stinky turtles... Please see here: http://www.commodityaxis.com/ResourceData.aspx?id=21 or contact Commodity Axis for more information re their canister filters. Bob Fenner>

Magnum 350 No flow
I just bought a magnum 350 pro.

I have a 40L aquarium on Wal-Mart 55 gallon stand.
its set up for a turtle tank.
<You will need to clean the canister often, turtles are quite messy.>
I set it up with and without the spray bar.
and I cant get an acceptable flow! (I get a small trickle)
the tank is 75% full of water.
all the air SHOULD be out of the lines.
<It should be more than a trickle, these filters have a decent amount of water flow.>
I've tried it several different ways, but I currently have the intake connected to an UGF.

the out take is below the water line. (because of the 75% water)
from the bottom of the tank to the floor is 24 inches.
no kinks or bends in the hose.
<Any bubbles coming out with the outflow? Do you use the quick disconnects? I found my 350 ran better without them, just straight tube.>
from the top of the canister to the water level is 21 inches.
<should be plenty.>
I'm thinking the magnum 350 is more gravity based than it is a pump.
could it be the stand is not high enough?
I paid $100 for this filter, I'm very unhappy
<As long as the canister is below the water level it should function fine, the gravity gets it started, but after that the pump should, well... pump. Does it make any funny noises like the sound of bubbles being chopped up by the impeller? These are good canister filters, I did not like doing maintenance on it, because of the small metal clips, and that dang thing that holds the carbon always blew up on me. The Rena XP3 and the Fluval 404 are also good canisters in this price range. If you cannot get it going, take it down to your Local Fish Store and have them test it out. You could also try filling the tank up all the way to see if this helps. Sometimes when my canisters do not want to start I take a powerhead and blast water into the intake to get things flowing in the right direction. Best Regards, Gage>
thanks

Magnum 350 Flow Woes
I emailed the other day about arrow crab behavior and saw this today- I had the same problem with my magnum 350 when I bought it, but I'm embarrassed with this,
<No worries, we are all friends here, do you know how many times I have sprayed myself with an out of control power head? you would think I would have learned by now to secure them in the mixing/changing tubs before plugging them in, but no. Or start a siphon and miss the bucket, draining nasty seawater onto my floor, or better yet, tools that were stored under the tank. Gotta love that one.>
but I had never used one before, and it doesn't tell you in the directions not to leave the micron filter in. This was the source of my problems-a learning experience at least. if you want to post this info/experience to the original mailer- mike---sorry I keep chiming in.
<Hey feel free, we appreciate the input. BTW I do not mean to bash or favor one filter over another. IMHO I have nothing against the Magnum 350 canister, they are good filters, but the number of times I spilled water on my floor with the Magnum was higher than with other canisters I have used. Best Regards, Gage>

Magnum 350 Set up revisited, and fixed!
the problem was... in the manual it doesn't show you how to setup the charcoal filter. I had the charcoal in the wrong part, I placed the charcoal in the middle core, instead of around the outside, which caused the plug... =) so I found the problem...
<AH HA! I knew you could do it.>
set everything back up, works good but still the spray bars were weak =/ anyway I ditched the spray bar and it works a lil better, not getting much aeration out of the diffuser, so I took it off and now I'm getting some turbulence... yes I'm using the quick connect and I think ill take your advice and get rid of the UGF, I was thinking the same thing... just a place for waste to collect.
<If the quick connects are working for you, keep them; it will make maintenance much easier. Glad to hear the UGF is gone, it would have been more trouble that it was worth IMO. Good luck with the turts! You might also play around with just buying filter floss in bulk for the canister, you will find that you are replacing the sleeves for the magnum very often and this might be pricey, I have not checked lately, just a thought. Gage>
thanks for your help

Is my filtration good enough? FW, Canister 1/5/07
Hi Bob,
<Jules>
My name is Julian. I have just recently purchased a 72-gallon bowfront tank made by All Glass. Taking advantage of the great Boxing Day deals at my LFS, I have already purchased an Eheim 2217 classic canister filter, as well as a Maxi-Jet 1200 powerhead (for improving water circulation). It says on the package that the Eheim canister is capable of pumping out 264 US gal./h.
<Is a mighty fine product... quiet, dependable...>
I am planning to stock my tank with a mix of African Rift Lake Cichlids.
<Oh! I have two such tanks... filtered with Eheims>
I have owned some AF Cichlids before, and I know that they can get quite messy. Mechanical filtration and water circulation is my main focus. I don't think I will be overstocking my tank too much. Perhaps a medium bio-load will do. I know my canister is no beast, but do you think it is good enough?
<Mmm, along with weekly water changes, yes, likely so... I suggest you rig yours up as I have... with the intake situated (with the slotted screen) near the bottom, and the return arrayed on the same side, discharging through the perforated bar, along, across the side toward the other side... near the surface (just underwater)>
I am contemplating of whether, or not, to add an Emperor 400 bio-wheel filter in addition to the canister.
<Is a good addition, yes>
As for water circulation, I am wondering of the best placement for my Maxi-Jet 1200 powerhead. Should I place it near the inlet pipe, or perhaps the outlet pipe of my canister?
<I'd try the latter myself>
If so, at what water level?
<Maybe near the surface... but try this and see how it works out>
Or should I buy an additional Maxi-Jet 1200 powerhead and place them on each side of my bowfront?
<Even better... aimed in a clock or counter-clockwise direction... toward the middle of the panels...>
My main concern is the settling of detritus/debris on the substrate bed (probably fine gravel) and especially in the rockwork. And also, should I place a filter (sort of acting as a pre-filter) in the strainer of the inlet pipe. Would this decrease the flow rate of my canister?

Any suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated. I am also contemplating of whether, or not, to purchase corner overflows for my tank. Would they benefit my setup?
<Mmm... towards what ends? Do you intend to add volume, tie in another container outside the main tank? Perhaps to gauge this set-up for a go at marine keeping in future? If none of these, I would not drill it at this time>
Many thanks Bob,
Julian
<Welcome, Bob Fenner>

Canister filter problems with air locks on turtle tank 12/15/06
I'm in the process of setting up a 280 gallon turtle tank, in an aquarium that used to be just fish. All was going well until I dropped the water level about 9" below the top of the tank, tried to restart my Fluval FX5 canister filter, and discovered that it is not strong enough to overcome the airlock.
<Ah, yes... actually the "draw" or vacuum is problematical here... Like most canister filters, this ones pump is intended to "push", not pull...>
For the time being I am pushing water into the Fluval with an Iwaki
pump, but it is very noisy and of course the Fluval was not designed for such use.
<Yes... and quite dangerous... could easily "pop" open the canister... flood your floor... I would remove this pump, not use it>
What do people usually do to overcome this problem?
Frank.
<Mmm, many folks use internal filters with turtles... there are powered and air-driven types you could use... do ask your LFS dealer (fish stores) what they have, suggest here. These types of filters require about as regular... weekly, cleaning as a canister. Bob Fenner>

Planted Discus Tank... filtration/circulation 12/12/06
Hi Crew!
<Mike>
I'm in the process of setting up a moderately planted 100 gallon discus tank.
<Some fun!>
About the last bit of research I need to complete before adding water has to do with filtration.
I'm planning on using canister filters for filtration, but am not quite sure how to balance the discus' preference for reasonably calm waters with their filtration needs and the plants needs for some current to facilitate biological processes.
<Easy to do... using the spray bars for the returns... near the surface is best... at one end or both>
My original thought was to use two Eheim Professional II, model 2126. They are rated at 250 gallons/hour for a combined total of 500 gallons/hour.

Couple of questions:
What is a reasonable water turnover rate given my somewhat contradictory considerations?
<This, these will be fine... not as vigorous a movement per unit time as you might think, consider>
Assuming no additional sources of current in the tank, would the two Eheims be too much? Too little?
<IMO/E right about right>
I really want to get this right from the onset and appreciate your assistance.
Happy Holidays,
Mike
<And to you and yours. At the near-surface for the discharges... Bob Fenner>

Magnum Filter Problems 12/5/06
I have a 350 Magnum Canister and I'm having a problem with bubbles coming from the exhaust. I have checked the connections ( intake/out), I even brought clamps to put on the ends of the tubes. I also notice that when I let it run, the water the water drops below the water line. So how do I kept the water from dropping. Thanks I'm new to this site. PLEASE HELP!!!
< The lid is not seated properly on the canister and air is coming in around the top. Two things to look at. The first is to make sure that the O ring is properly seated. The second thing to look at is the outflow tube coming from the impeller housing. Sometimes the lid does not fit over the tube and the tube sticks up into the lid and prevents the lid from properly closing.-Chuck>

Canister Filter For Turtle Tank - 09/07/06
Hello Bob, I just found your site on questions and answers today while doing some research on canister filter systems. My set up is for 2 red eared sliders about 15 years old, 7 and 8 (inches approx.) in length. The tank (50 gal) is about 80 % full of water. I have attached a ramp and a flat dry area near the water line with ledgers and aquarium silicone (very basic and not pleasing to look at but you can't have stuff the turtles can fit into their mouths). I had an old AquaClear outside power filter hanging off the back but it recently got dropped during a cleaning. It was doing a fine job of keeping the water clear with the sponge and carbon but each time the power went off it would get hot and stop. Luckily it never burned out. I probably should have done more research but as you know, you can't leave a turtle tank unfiltered. Stinky! I would do complete water changes every 7 to 10 days to keep the glass clear and remove the turds. I purchased a Odyssea CFs 4 and so far no problems. I have been doing research (belated I know) on this product because I had not heard of it before. I worked for a local pet store 20 plus years ago and it was not around then. Info that I have seen suggests that the o rings dry quickly and the on off valves where the hoses attach to the canister are not up to par (don't last too long leak wise and break easily). It can still be returned for an exchange. You seem to prefer the Eheim in the info that I have read. Would you suggest going that route?
< This is a new filter that has had mixed reviews. It is cheap, somewhat powerful and a little noisy. I think if your tubing is fairly straight then there is less of an issue with the valves. With sharp bends on the tubing, the valves can't hold the hoses intact and this stress and it creates cracks and leaks. Eheim has been around for many years. Their filters are expensive and not as powerful but they are well made and will last a very long time.>
Also the outlet part of the Odyssea seems to create a lot of foam. They seem to be afraid of the foam. The falls from the AquaClear did not make foam. I could lower the outlet into the water because the turtles do not require aeration like fish, just filtration. Also would a sterilizer be a good investment?
< Not needed for a turtle tank.-Chuck>
Thanks you for any information you might have to give me. Alethea

Water movement... Plants leaning over, canister filters 8/21/06
Good afternoon!
<And to you>
I absolutely love your website and all the wonderful info and advice you offer. I took about an hour searching and reading the website before emailing. I found answers that were close, but either the aquarium size was different or the search turned up info on reef tanks. I had emailed earlier to ask about filtration for my 50 gallon acrylic planted tank.
It's a fairly heavily planted tank with Eco Complete substrate mixed with gravel. I have 10 cardinal tetras, 6 featherfin rainbows, 5 japonica shrimp, 2 Cory cats, 4 Glowlight tetras and 4 Otos.
<Reads very nice>
I currently have an Eheim 2215 on the tank. I was contemplating purchasing either an Eheim 2026 or 2028. Both my LFS and WWM recommended that bigger was better.
<To an extent, yes>
I purchased a 2028 and set it up. My LFS suggested that I place the spray bar vertically in the left rear corner in order to have the greatest amount of flow over the leaves of the plants.
<This is what I would do as well>
This it does, however it also causes some of the plants (very tall Crypt, Cabomba, Hornwort) to bend quite a bit. I always unplug the filter because I don't want to stress them out.
<Mmm... not a good idea to unplug, re-plug in canister, "closed" filters... too much likelihood of them "going anaerobic" and toxic metabolites getting washed into your system...>
The other plants in the tank also move a lot in the current but because they are shorter and the plants themselves are stronger they don't bend like the more delicate ones. I would liken it to having a ceiling fan to medium speed. It almost reminds me of a reef tank at this point! lol. The LFS said the water movement should be "active" but that the plants should not bend over. The fish seem to be okay with it but every plant in the tank moves now.
<Mmmm>
My questions are these: is this too strong for the fish to live in comfortably?
<Not the fishes, no>
Is this too strong for the plants?
<Maybe...>
Is there anyway to slow the current just enough to allow the plants to stand upright?
<Yes... I would remove the "end plug" from the discharge line... see if this results in an acceptable flow pattern>
I am running both filters concurrently until the new one has established. Should I continue using both or just have the 2028?

I've researched where my fish originally come from but since they are most likely all tank raised I don't want to exhaust them with this much current.
<Not likely>
Thank you so much for all of your help. I'm so frustrated with some of the LFS. The one fellow seems to be really experienced, but I prefer the education and experience all of you have provided.
Have a wonderful evening,
Beverley
<Will do. Bob Fenner>

Re: 20 Gallon Long Question 6/30/06
Hi!
<<Hi, Sue. Tom>>
I need to ask a question that I cannot find the exact answer to on your website, I also am a little leery to take the word of a LFS teenager so I would prefer to ask it of you guys since you have always given me great advice.
<<Thanks for the vote of confidence, Sue. :)>>
I am planning on setting up a 20 gallon long tank with Tetras, Corys and Otocinclus. The plan is to have the tank heavily planted, a couple small piece of driftwood as well. I have a question regarding a filter...would a Fluval 205 work alright in this tank as described in your opinion?
<<I've got the older '304' model on my 50-gallon tank, Sue, and have been very pleased with it. (I've got additional filtration via an AquaClear 70 HOB filter, as well.) I've heard reports of the Fluval models leaking or being too time-consuming where cleaning is concerned. I've experienced neither of these problems. Frankly, I find mine a snap to clean but I don't wait three months or, longer, to clean mine, either. Another product to give serious consideration to would be Eheim, specifically the 2234 model. It's "rated" to 60 gallons, which means little as far as I'm concerned. What I look at is the 'gph' (gallons per hour) rating. For about what you'd spend on the Fluval 205, you could get the Eheim 2234 and gain 22 gph. Food for thought.>>
Upgrading in the future will not be an issue, as I do not have room for anything larger...this is just about it size wise! A friend of mine has a larger tank, a different Fluval number, I am very impressed with the water quality and clarity of her tank and would like to try a Fluval, just want to make sure that I purchase the correct one.
<>
Thank you!
<<You're welcome, Sue. Enjoy your new tank and pets! Tom>>

Filtering a 40 long from the end 5/29/06
I am looking to set up a 40 long aquarium on a low room divider wall, and would like to keep the two 48" walls clear of filters so that the fish can be clearly seen from both sides. Since it will be a freshwater system of predominantly (dirty) goldfish, I am concerned that a power filter at one end of a 4ft long narrow tank will not circulate and clean water from the far end. If I invest in a canister filter, such as a Fluval 405, can I put the intake at the far end, and the outlet at the near end?
<Mmm, yes>
 Will the impeller handle 4ft of additional hose?
<Yes>
 If so can I run this additional hose under the gravel (actually, over the top, 16" down, 48" under gravel, and 6-8" back up)
for cosmetic reasons, or will the 48" of additional hose need to be housed in the hood? Any help would be appreciated.
Dale Johnson
<Better to run this above. Bob Fenner>

FW Surface Films, maint., canister filters 5/29/06
Bob,
<Michella>
Thank you for your help! I have another question. I currently have a Fluval FX5 and Fluval 404 running on the tank. For the media, I am using BioMax, prefilter, the plastic bioballs, Zeocarb (not too much, though, as I read too much carbon is not good for plants), and Biomatrix, along with a couple of polishing pads. I also have lunar lights that run at night. Over the past week, I noticed a thin, cloudy layer of film on top of the water, that seems to be somewhat oily. Any idea to what is causing that or what it can be and how to get rid of it? Thanks again for your help!
Michella
<The film could be external or endogenous in origination... the former from "dust", aerosols in the house... the latter from foods/oil, microbial action... Both/either should be addressed... by having the canister filters discharge/disrupt the surface (or alternatively there are "surface skimmer" attachments that can be fitted onto the intakes), dipping a pitcher at the surface or using clean, white/plain paper towels to wick the surface... Some of these films can be problematical re gas exchange... Bob Fenner>

Equipment/Filters...Bursts of bubbles from a Magnum 350 5/25/06
Bob, <James today, Bob exploring the mysteries of the deep in HI> <<Heeee! RMF>>
 I noticed the question from Donna regarding air-bursts from her HOT Magnum. I have been using three 350's and two HOT's for several years and the only time I observed air building up in the canister (and causing bursts of bubbles) was when I had an airstone near the intake and it would suck in the occasional bubble until a larger bubble was built up inside the canister. and then it would periodically spew a mist of air droplets in the exhaust several times a minute. This sounds like it would have been obvious to the most casual observer, but it took me several days of messing with everything I could think of on the Magnum until finally I was glaring at the snorkels in frustration and saw a bubble spiral around into the intake side. (D'oh!!) Using 5 Magnums for the last three years and that's the only way I've seen air get entrained - through the intake. <Thank you for this, Mark, will post. James (Salty Dog)>
 Mark Hein

HOT Magnum ... air entrainment- 2/28/2006
First I have to say that I love your site and refer to it all the time (and usually find the info I am looking for).
<Okay>
That being said, I could not find any reference to the HOT Magnum releasing bursts of microbubbles.
<Yikes... trouble>
I spent ½ hr on the phone with Marineland and they didn’t seem to be able to help me.
<Unusual>
Their suggestion was to “burp” the canister.
<Mmm, would help if this situation was temporary... that is, only bubbly for a short while (a day let's say at the most), but then all air removed that was entrapped by opening...>
To leave it running and lift it horizontal while making sure that the intake tube stays in the water. This is supposed to get the air out.
<Will... if the amount of air is finite...>
But it didn’t seem to work. I still have bursts of microbubbles every 20 seconds or so. When I first set it up about 2 weeks ago, I don’t recall
seeing any bubbles. I have since pulled it apart for cleaning (lots of algae at the moment) and since then I get these bursts of bubbles. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Donna
<Yes... there is an area where air is "getting in"... and this is dangerous... for a couple of reasons... Emphysematosis ("gas-bubble disease"... you can read re on WWM), and the possibility of leaking... Somewhere about the tubing, connections, the actual closure of the Magnum, there is a way for air to get in (and possibly water to get out...). A few ways can be employed to detect and fix this leak... First, hand-tightening all by twisting the tubing, hard fittings together may "do it"... Turning the unit off, and swiping a bit of toilet paper along the junctures (the intake lines outside the tank, the top/seal of the filter, and the discharge lines) may reveal a bit of water seeping out where the air is getting in... This/these should help... but do write back if you are still unable to find/fix the leak. Oh, and you did lube the o-ring? Bob Fenner>

Synodontis eupterus Featherfin catfish and Canister filter ratings 2/23/06
 Bob Fenner
 First let me 'Thank You' for answering my last question I sent you.
<Welcome>
I have been offered 16 Synodontis eupterus catfish about 4 inches in length.
<Neat... a community>
The only tank I have available for them is a 125 gallon which contains no other fish. The question is how long could they be kept in such a tank with the appropriate rockwork i.e.: caves etc.?
<Perhaps indefinitely... with good feeding, regular water changes...>
That is until what length would they need to be separated if at all. I've read numerous articles and most agree that they can be kept in groups as they are not aggressive to each other. A few articles claim they are aggressive when two are kept in the same tank.
<In small tanks, yes>
Maybe you need more than two so they have a pecking order similar to angel fish.
<They do indeed>
 Also what size filter would one need on this size tank for both the interim and long term?
<I'd have two large outside power filters, some sort of internal circulation (powerheads, airstones...)>
I was thinking of a Filstar 3 plus a trickle filter with a gallon of small bio balls. What about a Filstar 3 and an Aqua Clear 110?
<These would do nicely>
Water change of about 25% would be done weekly in either case.
<Good>
 Reading answers to other peoples questions I've noticed that you prefer the Eheim 2028 [?] over the Filstar 3.
<Yes>
Could you give your reasons?
<Eheims are superior in design, construction... use less power, are the most reliable...>
I realize that the Eheim is a much larger filter but up here in Canada the Filstar 3 can be purchased on sale for $150 whereas the Eheim costs about $250 when on sale. Therefore for about $50 more you could purchase two Filstars. Thank You in advance Brian

Too much filtering or water movement How much is too much? - 20/1/05
I was wondering what would be considered too much water movement. I have a 75 gallon tank and one Fluval
405. I wanted to put in a second Fluval 405 to make sure the tank stays nice and clean. But then I was
worried about the problem of too much water movement. Right now the fish in the tank don't seem to have any
problems with the one filter. What do you think?
<Depends on the fish (and, more importantly, corals. However, in general, fish can withstand - and sometimes prefer - far higher currents than we provide. Ever swum in the ocean? Or a fast flowing river? If I am right in thinking that a 405 provides a max. flow of around 350gph, then two such filters would be perfectly suited for freshwater.... I would be looking for more flow for most marine tanks. Best regards, John>
Thanks,
Rusty

140g Tanganyikan Filtration Question - 11/25/2005
Hello and Happy Thanksgiving!
<Thank you; happy Thanksgiving to you, as well.>
I really appreciate the information you provide and have learned a lot from this website.
<Glad to hear it!>
I just purchased a 140 gallon half cylinder aquarium to house a Tanganyikan community and I'm a little confused about the type of filtration I should be using. There are so many products on the market that it's a little overwhelming!
<True enough!>
I am thinking about an Eheim Pro II 2028 canister filter,
<A WONDERFUL product. This and the 2128 are, in my opinion, the best canisters available. I find mine delightful.>
but from what I read, this is not enough filtration for my size tank.
<Possibly true.>
What would you suggest?
<I'd go with a large-ish wet/dry system under the tank.... a "sump".... Can build it yourself, or there are also products available geared for marine aquaria that you could use.>
Do I need something else in addition to that? Thanks!
<If you do choose to use the canister (again, I do greatly enjoy/recommend this particular model), then I would add one or two sizeable hang-on type filters. I think the "better" solution would be to go ahead with a sump-style wet dry, but you can really do most anything you want and are comfortable. And those Eheims work like a dream.... Wishing you well, -Sabrina>

Fluval 403 Replacement Parts - 11/27/2005
You have a tremendous website.
<Thank you. Tremendous work has gone into it.>
I have two Fluval 403 filters. I gave away all my fish last year (they had out-grown the aquarium) and took down my aquarium. I recently set it back up. The o-rings are dried, cracked and leaking. I need new o-rings for the Fluval 403 filters. I have looked everywhere but can't find these o-rings. Do you know where I can get o-rings for the Fluval 403 filter?

Thank you. -Donald
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>

Oops! Fluval 403 & Great website! De John - 11/28/05
I have two Fluval 403 filters. I gave away all my fish last year (they had out-grown the aquarium) and took down my aquarium. I recently set it back up. The o-rings are dried, cracked and leaking. I need new o-rings for the Fluval 403 filters. I have looked everywhere but can't find these o-rings. Do you know where I can get o-rings for the Fluval 403 filter? Thank you. Donald
<Hi Donald. This is a common problem that can be mitigated by keeping the o-rings lubricated, whether in use or not. I use silicone grease. For replacements, I would recommend calling the manufacturer - web searches came up dry for me also. Good luck, John>
<<Try changing your search terms, I found this in about five seconds using "Fluval 403", then on the very first website I hit, I searched on "gasket", got this: http://www.thatpetplace.com/MainPro/shopay00.aspx. I'd give this place a call, they carry the O-rings for most other Fluvals, they might be able to get a hold of this one (should be able to). Marina>>

Pentair Filtration for 50 Gal Corner Goldfish Tank? 10/30/05
We run 4 fancy goldfish, an Oto and a Betta
<Best not to mix goldfish with tropicals...>
in a 50 gal corner tank, filtered with a Rena Filstar 3 canister filter and a Current Gamma 8 watt U.V. light. The tank is on an acrylic stand,
<Neat>
the filter is inside the stand. The stand is drilled with a couple of 2" diameter holes, one for water, the other for air and electric lines. The filter occasionally belches microbubbles and gunk into the tank. This has driven me nuts since day one -- eighteen months ago. The problem is caused by misalignment of the inlet/outlet taps caused by strain on the hoses caused by the combination of hard plumbing and angles necessary to get water in and out of the acrylic base.
I replaced the Filstar's pump/top assembly and tap assembly without any improvement. The acrylic hood does not allow room for a sufficiently large power filter and the U.V. light.
<This/these can be cut, routered pretty easily... with not much risk to the integrity of the tank>
I am unwilling to give up the benefits of the U.V. It's complicated. Trust me. Also trust me when I say the hard plumbing and odd angles are a necessary evil with any regular canister whether Rena, Eheim, or other similar canister. I've talked to a few vendors. One recommended that I replace the Rena with a Marineland Magnum 350 or an Eheim. I'm not all that thrilled about spending the money for an Eheim and ending up with the same problems -- plus I'm unsure there's enough turnover as it is. The Magnum doesn't have enough room for the chemistry and biological media I favor,
<Good point>
with the plumbing the turnover would be marginal -- and no guarantee that the same or other problems wouldn't reoccur as a result of the kludged plumbing.
I'm leaning towards a Pentair AF system of Double Mechanical Module; Double Chemical Modules (one for Purigen and Water Softener Pillow, the other for Seachem Matrix); and a Double Heater Module (might as well hide the heater); and would likely plumb the pump in the stand (3/4" or 1" inlet/outlet) and the rest of the system (3/4") between
stand and wall, using the U.V. as a hang-on outlet -- about 2-1/2" below the water surface. Any better options for filtration?
<Mmm, not much/many... if you're willing to spend the money with little actual modification to the tank here. You could (if you drained it...) build a weir/overflow... or cut the top... But your plan is better, will work>
I haven't completely diagrammed the plumbing yet, but figure it will need four or five hard plumbed right angles in addition to whatever load is caused by the modules. I think 300-350 actual gph output would be about right.
<Yes, sufficient>
Marine Depot recommends a Pan World 50PX-X pump. Pentair recommends their Quiet One 4000 HH. Can you
recommend a pump?
<Both of these will work... Quiet Ones have had issues... you might check on BB's re>
Quietness and reliability are most important, cost a close runner up. FWIW, the 4000 HHs go for around $70. At $140
the Pan World is as high as the budget goes.
Finally, if I do go through with this plumber's nightmare, can you recommend a source for corrugated hose and fittings?
Rich
<Marine Depot sells these... (maybe ask for Ben or Ali there)... send them a drawing of the space, holes you have... buy the tubing/pipe locally. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Thanks for Answer Re: Pentair Filtration Goldfish Tank? 11/1/05
Bob and The Rest of You Fishy Rascals,
<Yo!>
Thanks for your response to my questions. You've helped me make up my mind. Be prepared for a few plumbing-related questions as the project moves forward.
<Ah, good>
Thanks again and beware the Goldfish From Hell,
Rich
<Be chatting, Bob Fenner>

Re: Pentair AF in 50 Gal Goldfish Aquarium 11/3/05
Hello Crew,
<Richard>
You can't say I didn't warn you that I'd be writing again. Well, you can. But it wouldn't be true.
<Heee!>
Just to remind you, I wrote and asked questions regarding using Pentair modular filtration for my 50 gal goldfish tank. Bob agreed that considering my situation Pentair made sense. I talked to Marine Depot to get some more advice before
ordering. Their rep, who is also named Rich, made two surprising (well, to me anyway) suggestions. I thought I'd run them by you for some additional feedback.
First, he thought it would be a good idea to use Triple (!) size modules in order to decrease frequency of mechanical filter maintenance.
<A good idea... very messy fish... and a good idea to keep mechanical parts clean by frequent cleaning... switching out of cartridges... multiple sets for processing>
And I thought a Double Mechanical was overkill. On the other hand more overkill might not be a bad thing.
<Correct>
Second, when I told him that I planned on using two Double Chemical Modules -- one for chemistry (Purigen, Water Softener Pillow) and the other for bio-media -- he said the gravel substrate in the tank was sufficient for biological filtration, and a module for bio-media was unnecessary.
<Mmm, nice to have redundancy here. Nitrogenous waste/cycling problems are still the number one source of mortality of captive aquatic life... especially goldfish>
Actually, it makes some sense since a couple of weeks after switching from a few Rena (AP) bio stars to 1 liter of Seachem Matrix bio media in a Rena Filstar -- for no particular reason -- nitrate levels actually doubled! Don't panic, still below 20 ppm. I hadn't really connected the change in bio-media to the increase in nitrate levels, but after talking with Rich wonder if it might have been caused by increased nitrification from a larger population of nitrogenous bacteria.
<Yes, likely a factor... but better nitrate than its precursors>
This project is going to require some fancy-shmancy plumbing; cutting a few holes in the acrylic tank stand; not to mention careful placement in a limited amount of space. I'd hate to get it wrong because I bought the wrong size or wrong number of modules.
<Understood>
Third, if the setup does need bio-media can I use Matrix in a Pentair module with a 300-350 gph flow rate?
<Could>
Would that strip the bacteria right off the rock?
<Mmm, no... but you might want to consider running the chemical and biological filter modules in parallel (as opposed to series... with valving to bypass one/the other... to control flow and give you the opportunity of getting into each w/o turning off your pump...>
The output could be split with a tee and a ball valve to get less flow, say 150-175 gph, through the module holding
bio-media, and the other half of the split could routed through the (Current Gamma 8 watt) U.V. Light, which also might benefit from a slower rate.
<Oh! Good>
Thanks for the advice I am about to receive, Rich
<Sounds/reads almost like a prayer! Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Re: Plumbing Pentair AF system for 50 gal corner aquarium on acrylic stand -- Goldfish 11/9/05
Dear Crew,
<Richard>
I took your advice and ordered the Triple size Pentair Mechanical, Chemical and Heater Modules for my 50 gal (220L) goldfish aquarium from Marine Depot, and also ordered a Pan World 100 PX pump to drive it. Please, if you would be so kind, give me some advice regarding plumbing -- Any suggestions at all on how to make this work better would be appreciated. What follows is the current rough plan. I hope what I've written is sufficiently clear.
<Me too!>
Inlet: One each 18” and 12” nipples
<Through the bottom I take it... would make the shorter one only a couple of inches shorter than the tallest... no need for more difference, and if trouble, less water out of the tank>
– each with strainers. Each nipple to its own PVC elbow.
<This plumbing diameter... 1 1/2"?>
The elbows to the ends of a horizontally mounted Tee. The middle hole of this Tee to a true union. (Union so suction can be broken for maintenance). The true union to middle hole of another PVC Tee, mounted vertically. The top of the vertical Tee closed with removable plug (so suction can be created).
<Likely not needed>
The bottom of the vertical Tee to a 12” nipple to hose barb to flex tube. Other end of Tee enters aquarium stand.
Line to pump: Flex tube to elbow on floor 1/2 out and 1/2 in aquarium stand. Hose barb to flex tube to ball valve to hose barb to true union to pump inlet. (Ball valve to remain completely open unless pump unplugged.) (Pump mounted conventionally -- mounting plate down.)
Pump Exhaust: Exhaust to true union to ball valve to elbow to flex tube to elbow on floor. Nipple through stand bulkhead, exiting stand.
Line to Mechanical Module: Nipple to Elbow to hose barb to flex tube to Triple Mechanical Module.
Filter (Inline to Split): Triple Mechanical Module to Triple Chemical Module to hose barb. Flex hose around corner to Triple Heater Module to ball valve to TEE. 2 ball valves, 1 each off both outlets.
Filter (Split 1) Ball valve to true union to hose barb to flex tube to elbow hose barb to second Triple Chemical Module (for bio-media).
Planned flow rate less than or equal to 125 gph. Outlet: Flare nozzle mounted just above water line.
Filter (Split 2) Ball valve to true union to hose barb to flex tube to 8 Watt Current USA Gamma UV filter mounted vertically. UV to hose barb to outlet U tube. Planned flow rate less than or equal 200 gph.
Outlet: Flare nozzle 2” below water.
<Mmm, I'd move this discharge up a bit if you could... near the surface... disruption is better>
All hoses and fittings 3/4” dia – as are inlet and exhaust on the PanWorld.

Couplers and close nipples as necessary. Flex tube – garden variety vinyl aquarium hose or corrugated if I can find it.
<You can... at Home Depot, Lowe's... Your plan has lots of good ideas re use of flexible, and capacity for removing modules, pump during maintenance (do fit a few loops of extra flexible to allow easier removal...)>
Thanks in advance,
Rich
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Tank Too Small, Filtration Too Heavy - 10/17/2005
Hey there, this is kind of crazy but I'll ask any way. I have a 29 top fin tank with two Bala sharks and two Pictus catfish and one black ghost knife.
<This is too small for balas and ghost knifefish.>
I am currently running one hot magnum 250 and one penguin 330, is this to much filtration?
<In a 29? This is way too much current in my opinion.>
PS I am upgrading the tank size to a 75 should I buy the Eheim pro two thermo 2128 model

or do I have enough already.
<Can possibly get by. Wishing you well, -Sabrina>

New Tank Filters ( Freshwater ) 9/29/05
Hello Gang !
<K.S.>
Thanks so much for the excellent information contained on your site !
<Welcome>
I have a 75 gallon freshwater tank, fully cycled, and I now have the bug to upgrade to a 180 -240 gallon set up.
<Oooh, you lucky pug!>
With my new tank, I am wondering what filters I should use. I currently
have an Eheim 2028 on the 75gal, but was intrigued by the Simplicity plus
system by Tenecor, which got me to looking at all the Wet/dry type filters.
<This AZ company does make some nice units>
Can you tell me for a 240 gal tank what wet/dry set up you recommend....my
LFS said to have two Eheim 2028....but I thought I could actually get a
bigger filter set up.....and one that I might some day be able to use if I
ever convert to salt water ???
Tks !!!!
K
<Best to refer you to what is posted on WWM on the topic... for Freshwater Filtration: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwsetupindex.htm
and Marine: http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
Important for you to fully understand your options here... better to suit your filtration to your desired livestock, time for fooling with/maintenance, budget for operation... Enjoy the journey. Bob Fenner>

Filter Good Enough?
I have a Fluval 204. Is that a good enough filter? Thanks for all the help. You guys are very fast! Thanks, Katie
< A Fluval 204 is rated at 180 gallons per hour when not obstructed with waste. It should work well with the 30 gallon but may need more service on the 55 gallon.-Chuck>

Via Aqua Filters
Hi
This is a stupid question but I just moved into a house and the previous tenant had 2 turtles in a tank he said he would come back in a few days and pick the turtles up and never did. I don't know any thing about filters or how to keep marine life in general! Any way the water is all dirty so I figured the filter and tank needs cleaning. The tank has a Via Aqua filter but I have no Idea where to begin and If I take It apart water just flows out. I have been to all my local pet stores etc and no one know of these filters. I need to do some thing I feel cruel keeping these turtles in the tank like that.
How do I go about Cleaning these filters?
<Mmm, easy enough... disassemble, rinse... sometimes renew activated carbon to rid the smell of those stinky turtles... Please see here: http://www.commodityaxis.com/ResourceData.aspx?id=21 or contact Commodity Axis for more information re their canister filters. Bob Fenner>

Diatomaceous Filter
Hi,
I am setting up my mothers 30 gallon tank. She has a Diatom filter I am not
quite sure how to use it.
<Please see here: http://www.diatomfilter.com/>
I know that I need Diatomaceous earth and I have to
replace the rotten hoses. But that's about all I know. I read about a Diatom
filter and it stated 'can run continuously' then it stated 'maximum 8 hours per
week'.
<Should not be run continuously... for a few reasons... gets clogged easily, uses quite a bit of electricity, gets quite hot...>
So do you not have to run them all the time like you do a regular
filter? Being that they clean a 10 GL tank in 12 minutes, you only have to run them
for 12 minutes every few hours maybe? I dot know how to set up the filter,
clean the filter or anything, I am just clueless and would appreciate any
information that you might have on Diatom Filters.
Thank you,
LeAnn
<Read on my friend. Bob Fenner>

Save The Carpets!! - Cascade 1000 Maintenance - 04/01/2005
Please help!
<Hi, Elisabeth! Sabrina here, hoping to do just that.>
I have a Cascade 1000 filter and I've had my tank 70 gallon) set up for about 1.5 months.
<Well, welcome to the aquarium hobby, and may this adventure be a fun one.>
I have Heart parrots and Silver dollars, anyway the problem is that I cant find the owners manual and I'd like very much to rinse out the floss in the filter.
<A good idea, for sure.>
I tried turning off and taking the top off (big mistake)
<Yep>
I had water all over.
<Better grab some galoshes for the next part....>
Then I tried turning off the pump and disconnecting the hoses. another big mistake as water gushed out the hose.
<Sounds like it's getting pretty humid there.>
I know this is something simple but I DO need help!
<Well, poor attempts at humor aside, I think I've got some help for yah. Take a look at the place where the hoses connect to the filter. On both hoses, there's a sort of lever-looking thing. See that? Turn it 90 degrees to where it is now. That should cut off the water, and you should be able to take off the lid without getting any wetter than, say, a mostly dry cocker spaniel. After you've emptied and cleaned the filter, when you go to put it back together, open one of the hoses over the filter (just turn that little lever-dohicky) to fill it up most of the way again. Close the hose again, and put the lid back on the filter. Open both hoses, prime the filter by pushing that big roundy button thing a few times, and turn 'er on! Simple as that. Furthermore, I urge you to write to Penn-Plax and tell them that you've misplaced your manual, and they'll probably be eager to help you obtain a new one. Penn-Plax's website is: http://www.pennplax.com/ and you can reach their customer service folks by emailing: consumerservice@pennplax.com. Now, here's a silly thing I do with manuals and such, as I really tend to lose them. I tape all my manuals to the inside of the stand of the aquarium, usually just to the left of the door. That way, if I need to figure something out, I know where I can find it, and it's not going to walk away very easily, being all stuck to the piece of tape and all. Might be something to try!>
Elisabeth Keeney
<Wishing you and your family a nice, dry carpet, -Sabrina>

Canister, Canister, Doin' the Can-Can
Hey Crew,
This should be an easy one. I am in the market for a canister filter for weekly clean up. I am trying decide between a Diatom filter of a magnum filter. In your opinion which do you think would be the better choice.
Thank You!
< I would choose the Magnum because you can use different cartridges depending on the level of clean up you require. A coarse canister insert with good carbon can get rid of any colors in the water and the micron insert can really polish up the water by removing the fine particles suspended in the water.-Chuck>

Canister filter Qs + tank setups
Hey WWM Crew,
<Jamie>
A big ol' Thank You! to Gwen for answering my last email (the one below this one). It helped me picture what's happening with the canister filter. I'm sure it'll all be crystal clear once I bring one home, lol. I'm also hoping that the plants won't become snail food, hehe. The snails are Pomacea bridgesii effusa Apple snails, the ones that do not eat live plants and safe for the planted tank. They haven't eaten any of mine for the year or so I've had 'em so I think I'm in the clear, lol.
<We'll see>
Anyway, I have indeed pondered more and more about my setup with the 20Ls. Since putting them together with one canister filter is not a good idea, I've been thinking what would. Maybe two Whisper power filters, but I am afraid that the water turbulence may be too much for both inhabitants and plants, and that they wouldn't bring up much of the snail mess.
<These are actually a good choice... not too turbulent...>
Then I thought maybe sponge filters would work but wouldn't I be compromising space for my plants and the snail mess might still pose a problem. Any suggestions??? I'm open-minded and all ears :)

Also, I've looked over more of the Eheim canister filters and found the Ecco Comfort Plus Filter 2232 and 2234. Is this a good one or should I just stick with the Filstar for either the 30 or 33L??

Sorry for all the questions, figured that while you're all available I should ask the pros everything I can ;) And, as always, thanks for help, it is greatly appreciated :)
~ Jamie
<Bob Fenner>

220 gallon tank
hi I have just purchased a 220 gallon tank and I am wonder what kind of filters to use I know I want canister filters the tank is going to be fresh water and also how many do u think I need
< Since you already want canister filters I would only recommend a minimum of two Marineland Magnum filters with the optional BioWheel attachments. The two of them will pump 700 gallons per hour when clean. If you have a hard time keeping up you could add a third one.-Chuck> Ty Jerry Messer