Re: SW captive breeding 7/4/08
good day
>Rotimi<
Aside from clown fish i would like to know
1 names of other marine fish that can be bred commercially in captivity.
<See here: http://wetwebmedia.com/AqSciSubWebIndex/orncultart.htm
and the linked files above>
2 books or other materials on how to breed them and
<... You have Frank Hoff's books? Have seen the new one by Matt Wittenrich?>
3 good sources for obtaining such adult fish for breeding
thank you
<These are all over the world... best to buy juveniles, raise yourself. Bob Fenner>

Re: Question about Eucidaris metularia 7/4/08
Thanks, Bob. I will move the urchin to my 30g cube--no corals, just a Yellow Watchman Goby/Pistol Shrimp and a Pearly Jawfish.
Have a good holiday weekend.
Andy
<Am off to hopefully move a hive of bees from a rental attic with a friend... Let's hope that moving this Urchin solves this mystery. Cheers, BobF>

Stocking question, Marine 7/4/08
Hey Guys,
<Hello>
I really enjoy the site, lots of great info there!
<Thanks>
I have some questions about the stocking of my tank, and what you think of it so far. I have a 30 Gallon saltwater system, with 35 pounds of live rock, a Prizm Skimmer, (rated for 100 gal)
<Does not have a great reputation.>
two smallish powerheads for circulation. I have finished adding fish to it, I added them over a period of a few months, one or two at a time. The order went as such 1 Ocellaris Clown (Genghis), followed by two more a few weeks later (Kublai and Attila) as I was told that adding just one more would lead to one of them probably killing the other.
<Actually 2 will most likely pair up and kill the third as they mature.>
The cleanup crew came after that, over a period of a few weeks. The cleanup crew comprises 2 scarlet hermits, five tiny blue legged hermits, five neisseira
<Nassarius?>
snails, and a Monaco shrimp (Paul). Finally I have added a scooter blenny and a coral beauty angelfish.
<Both of these need larger tanks, the angel will outgrow this tank and the scooter "blenny" (really a dragonet) will not be able to find sufficient food.>
I don't plan on adding any more. The fish are all eating well and swimming around fairly energetically. The clowns have found a niche by the heater, and the Angel sits behind one chunk of live rock most of the time, coming out and swimming around every now and again.
They come out a lot more during the day. Am I overstocking this tank?
<Not really overstocked, but inappropriately stocked in my opinion.>
Every other site I have found states that a 30 gal tank should be sufficient and my LFS said it should be fine, but I don't want the fish to be unhappy so want to check as your site suggests a larger tank for what I have.
<I would agree with what you found on our site.>
I am also having a lot of algae problems... though I was told this is normal for a new tank... I'm getting brown algae, lots of green hairy algae, and following that a but of this nasty purple goopy stuff that bubbles a lot (I'm guessing Cyanobacteria, so I try to clean it out when it happens).
<Its common for this to happen in new tanks, but you want to control it as best as you can since it is quite difficult to remove once it has gotten a foothold.>
It usually comes back a few days after I've cleaned it off. I do a 3-5 gal water change every couple weeks, and my water chemistry is as follows S.G 1.026, pH 8.3-8.4, Alkalinity is in the normal range, Temp 78-79 F, Nitrate almost 0, Ammonia is less than .25, but above zero, though this is a few days after adding the last fish so probably doing a little cycle of sorts.
<Watch this very closely, ammonia is very toxic even in small amounts, be prepared for extra water changes.>
Should I expect the algae to go away soon, or should I try switching to RO/DI water?
<I use RO/DI, removes some guesswork, but time will tell if you need it or not.>
(Currently use tap water but it apparently has no nitrate, phosphate etc when I tested it).
<Good>
I also cut back on the amount I feed them, I feed them New Life Spectrum flakes with garlic, some green Nori seaweed, and mysis shrimp (frozen) for some variety.
<May want to feed every other day for a while to get the algae under control.>
I do hope to eventually add some soft corals too.
Does this tank have a chance of succeeding?
<You have some stocking issues, but the basic setup has a good chance of success.>
I'd hate for anything to die or even suffer here. Thanks so much for your help. I have looked over a LOT of your stocking suggestions etc, but nothing that really addressed my specific situation.
Eric
<I would look for new homes for 1 of the clowns, the angel, and scooter blenny, then find a couple of more appropriate fish.>
<Chris>

Nutrition, Rhinomuraena reading  7/4/08
Hey crew. My LFS has a great ribbon eel and it also eats. Well I would like to buy it but I wanted to ask u
<...>
if feeding it guppies is safe since I read that feeding sw fish fw food is bad for the fish's health. Plz tell me if it is safe.
<Not nutritionally... see WWM re. RMF>

Problems with Fluval filter 7/4/08
Hello
<Hello>
I am having problems with my Fluval filter for my turtle tank! I change it as usual and I have done this for like 6 months now, no problems, well last night, the filter is not priming and sending water back into the filter to fill up properly.
<Is this a sudden change?>
I have checked and re-checked hose connections, interior of filter, properly installed filter media, etc...
I don't know why the water is not being taken in when primed and filling up canister?? The motor seems fine as well, I am frustrated!
Any suggestions would be appreciated,
Ro-
<Short of any obstructions (in the tubing, impeller, media, etc.), you may need to replace the rotor/impeller of the filter. Over time (years), the magnet can lose strength, requiring replacement. Do try cleaning the impeller/rotor and the area it sits in thoroughly with vinegar first. Scott V.>

Re: Problems with Fluval filter 7/4/08
Thank you, I will try that.
Ro-
<Welcome, Scott V.>

Light in Sump? 7/4/08
This may be your silliest question of the day, but I have a Megaflow 1 sump with live rock rubble, etc.
<There are questions that come through here sillier than all belief!>
I have this aquarium in the wall and the sump is in a totally enclosed cabinet with absolute no lighting. It is pitch black. Someone told me that the filter media needs light to properly grow the good bacteria. Is this true?
<Nope, think of a canister filter, no light there! Fact is lighting such areas only promotes algae growth.>
If so, I guess that means installing another light. How much light?
Sounds crazy, but just thought I would ask.
<Never hurts to check, Scott V.>

A Heartfelt "Thanks!" & SW Fish Acclimation/Dips   7/5/08
Dear Bob,
>Joe<
I have been a reader of WWM for several years and would like to thank you and the crew members for the huge amounts of effort, experience, wisdom, as well as common sense that has went into the site. I have NEVER had to write because every question I’ve thought of has been within these pages. In addition, I would like to give a huge “Thank you” to both you and Anthony for the books, “CMA” as well at “Reef Invertebrates”. I would like to encourage all readers to purchase both because there is additional information not posted on WWM in these pages that is extremely valuable! These are the most detailed books that I’ve read regarding the hobby and I appreciate every word! I’m already on my 2nd copy of CMA!
<Heeee!>
My first ever question is actually more of a clarification. In the past I have not quarantined or dipped specimens and have been very lucky regarding disease. This is all going to change. After reading every acclimation article on WWM, every FAQ, and every chapter (repeatedly) in CMA, I’m still a bit confused as to proper acclimation/dip procedures. I know this is a relatively simple procedure and I think that the root of the confusion that other readers have had is from not actually seeing/experiencing the proper procedure first hand. There is a big difference between reading and actually witnessing someone properly acclimate/dip a specimen.
<I totally agree with you>
I have done my best at compiling the information and have created a general step by step acclimation procedure with dip. I would GREATLY appreciate a critique. I believe that this step by step layout will help other aquarists like me that have difficulty understanding the complete and proper process.
<Ok>
This is a general procedure for most common marine fish that appear to be in general good health,
1) Upon bringing the specimen home, float bag in quarantine tank to equalize temperature for about 10 minutes.
2) Add an air stone to the bag and begin drip acclimating to quarantine tank for 40-50 minutes.
3) While drip acclimating, prepare dip water in separate container. Use pre- aerated RO water that is temperature adjusted and buffered with sodium bicarbonate to about 8.2
<Will only raise to about 7.8>
(same parameters as quarantine) with or without Methylene blue added according to bottle instructions. (Or should this dip water be made 24 hrs in advance?)
<New is fine>
4) When drip acclimation is completed, scoop specimen with net and dip in prepped water for 5-10 minutes depending on size and reaction to dip.
5) Net and place directly in quarantine tank
6) Observe in quarantine for at least 4 weeks and administer treatment if symptoms arise.
7) Upon quarantine release, drip acclimate to display tank (turn lights off or dim) and release specimen.
*Never mix bag water with quarantine or display
<Sounds good>
Obviously there are other ways to go about this. But in general, how does this look in your valued opinion?
>Fine<
Again Bob, words cannot express how your and all of the WWM crew's work has helped me and countless other aquarists. THANK YOU!
Joe W.
Wichita, KS
<Glad to help you. Bob Fenner>

Remora help   7/5/08
Hi WWM crew,
I need your advice, a friend that knows I have a large tank just gave me a Remora, its about 9 inches...
<Mmm>
anyways I introduce it to my tank where I keep a smooth hound and a blue spotted stingray, well the remora attached itself to the stingray and wont let go. My question is...will the stingray be ok swimming with the remora stuck to him at all times he doesn't seem to like it)? how can I separate them?
<Net them both, hold the remora up by the tail out of the water... while someone is protecting you from the Stingray with a net...>
the stingray and Remora are about the same size... I really didn't ask for the remora... please help
G.
So Cal
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/remorafaqs.htm
Echeneids are incredibly aggressive fishes... almost always unsuitable for aquarium use. Bob Fenner>

Need an opinion on ick treatment   7/5/08
Hello,
<Hi there>
I need your much appreciated advise regarding ich treatments. My tank is a 300 gallon sps setup with two tuff stuff 140 gallon tubs connected by two 3" bulkheads;
<Nice>
one currently is holding the skimmer and the other is used as a refugium with Chaetomorpha algae. My display is over 2 years old with a 4" layer of fine sand and about two hundred and fifty pounds of live rock. My ammonia is undetectable; so is the nitrite. My nitrates are about 2.5 and pH ranges from 8.2 - 8.4. Alkalinity is at 9dKH and calcium is around 450.
<Very good>
I always tried to maintain salinity at 1.025, however after buying a refractometer three days ago I realized my water was actually at 1.030; so I lowered it to 1.025 within three days.
<Mmm, I would take a week or longer here>
I currently have the following fish:
- 4" Majestic angelfish
- 4" Coral Beauty
- 2" ocellaris clown
- Two 3" black saddleback clowns
- 3.5" melanurus wrasse
- 3" Lawnmower blenny
- 3.5 yellow eye Kole tang
- 4" Pacific Blue tang
- 4.5" Powder blue tang
By now I'm pretty sure you know where this is going. I got the powder blue about two months ago. I quarantine it for a month without any signs of ick, so I placed it in the display. None of my fish bothered it, he became the dominant fish right away. About two weeks after being placed in the display, I noticed he had what seemed to be ick. I obviously somehow introduced the parasite, so I was wondering what could have triggered this.
<Perhaps the rapid change in SPG>
Does the tank have a high Bio-load,
<No>
could the high salinity I had previously mentioned started this
<Yes>
or could it be the current heat wave which elevated the temperature to 84 degrees
<Could be a co-factor>
the one day I forgot to turn on the cooling fans. My display temperature is always at 80 to 82 degrees. I also had to remove a 5" blue throat trigger which the powder blue could not stand and chased a few times a day; I wonder if that stressed him enough.
<This too>
I waited a few days before taking further and appropriate action. At this point the powder blue is full of ick but eats well. My yellow eye which only grazes of the rocks and the glass is now also full.
<This is something else>
The Pacific blue gets the spots to a lesser degree on and off. The rest of the fish don't show any signs, however based on your web page I know all the fish need to be treated.
<Yes...>
After doing my research I need to remove all the fish and leave the tank fallow 8-10 weeks. I need your advise on how to properly remove the ick from the fish. My plan was to begin with the three tangs, giving them a formalin bath as per bottle recommendations, then placed in a 60 gallon quarantine.
<Good>
My question is whether I should add Cupramine to the 60 gallon quarantine tank at .35ppm
<At the highest concentration...)
for two weeks
<Is one approach... you might want to try Chloroquine phosphate... IF the infestation is not too "deep", hyperinfective, this anti-malarial may destroy it (rather than simply arrest the present development)>
then moved to a 150 gallon holding tank while I place the rest of the fish through the same procedure and while the display goes fallow. However I'm scared the copper might damaged the intestinal bacteria the tangs have, or if I might be doing more damage to my angels.
<A distinct possibility>
The other plan was to not use the copper and give the fish a formalin bath every other day for two weeks, then skip the 60 gallon with copper and place them into the 150 with newly mixed water.
<Another approach... but likely more harmful than chelated copper exposure at the lower effective range (.0.15 ppm free Cu++)>
My last idea was just one Formalin bath then placed in the 150 for observation. I believe I read many are not big fans of Formalin, as it is toxic, however I figured the copper might do more damage but I could be wrong.
<Is very toxic... but effective for "surface" complaints>
Please help me figure out which would be my best option. Also how would you recommend keeping the ammonia and nitrite down on either the 60 or 150 spare tanks with new saltwater.
<Changing it...>
Is Amquel or any ammonia sponge good or are water changes the only option.
<Mmm, the latter may be worth trying... most water conditioners remove copper...>
The sponges I had for biological filters in the sump most likely have ick so I don't want to introduce it to the quarantine.
Thanks and keep up the good work.
<I empathize with your situation... Would try the Chloroquine on the Tangs, Angels... and see if this does the job, along with the one-time/moving formalin/aerated bath. Bob Fenner>

What is wrong with our poor Betta?   7/5/08
Hello again,
<Sandy>
Since moving our Betta from his plastic half gallon kit home to a 10 gallon home with live plants and 5-20 Aqua Clear filter, he was doing very well. No need for heater yet - we live in Florida and will get a heater come September when the temps begin to drop below mid 70's at night and we can open the windows again.
<Mmm... actually do need the heater now... Not so much a given temp., but any large fluctuation you're trying to avoid... just set and leave... they're thermostatic>
Plant lights keep the water at 80 degrees constantly in the days and it is never below 79 when I check on him in the mornings.
<Oh!?>
Betta began to swim back and forth at the front of the tank - looked like he was pacing frantically.
Definitely not swimming around the tank checking things out.
<Mmm, perhaps it's seeing its own reflection, and reacting to same. Very common... see below>
We decided to get a 6 long-finned Danios to see how he would manage some company. I was at first concerned that he would get the Danios, but he couldn't even get near the Danios. They are some crazy, active fish!
<Ah yes. Frenetic... like I wish our federal lame-duck gov't was>
Betta seemed very unconcerned with the Danios after the second day.
By the end of the 4th day, I noticed him head down in the corner of the front of the tank not moving at all. Then the next day I thought he was "stuck" in the Japanese lantern structure, but he was just hanging out there for a while. Then later that evening, I saw him wedge himself between the Wisteria and the side glass and just stay there - head down again. A few hours later, I saw him at the top rear corner of the tank not moving at all, even after I tapped the glass.
I thought he was just stressed by the energy and activity of the Danios, which is pretty constant. I filled his little plastic half gallon tank with the same tank water and put him back in with his plastic plant and purple gravel - where he had weekly 75+% water changes. He immediately perked up, but not for long. He now seems quite listless again, although not as bad as in the 10 gallon tank - he has also looked "fat", but not bloated to me for a few weeks now, but I didn't think too much of it until recently. He does not seem injured at all and I have looked closely.
He is fed Hikari pellets - about 4-6 pellets twice a day and Hikari dried bloodworms every other day or so. We have had him for almost 2 years now, and he was the same size when we got him, so I assume, he might have been at least almost fully mature when we got him - no idea how old this fish really is. Could he just be getting old, and have I pushed him over the edge with the Danios?
<Perhaps both>
The fish manager at Petsmart said Bettas are naturally territorial
<Really only towards other male Bettas, or what they perceive as such>
and the fact that he couldn't do anything about the Danios was probably extremely stressful. He thought a divider might be just as stressful.
<Mmm, no>
I went to WWM and read your Betta pages twice. Very helpful. You are all so wonderful and help us to take much better care of our finned friends.
<Is our goal to help others understand, provide good care, enjoy/appreciate the living world, themselves>
My kids 13, 4 and 2, are in love with the Danios. Much more entertaining to watch than the Betta, if not as colorful.
<Ahhh>
Would you recommend putting him back in the 10 gallon tank with a divider?
<Yes... of the given options, this is best>
Or do you think that being able to see the Danios would remain a stress for him? I know - hard to say, but I hate to think of him being in the filter less "tank" again - now that I know better. I will probably put some of the live plants in his little tank until I hear from you. If he is just getting older and tired, I would like him to live out his old age peacefully.
Thanks again,
Sandy
<And do try covering one end or the back of the aquarium with paper... and tape, on the outside... Could be that interacting with the reflection alluded to above that is causing this fish to be "bummed out". Bob Fenner>

Mysterious Tank Problem   7/5/08
Crew,
I am in desperate need of your help. On Monday of this week I purchased a new filter for my 55 gallon marine aquarium. I am changing from an old hang on Emperor 400 to a canister filter rated for a 100 gallon tank.
<I do hope you left both going for a while...>
To prevent too much of a mini cycle I smeared some of the "goop" from the old filter pads onto the sponge media in the new filter. Two days ago (Wednesday) my Lawnmower Blenny died. I was really bummed out about this because he was one of the first two fish I ever purchased for my aquarium and that was four years ago. I really didn't put a whole lot of thought into it at the time. I did my usual "oh crap" tests for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH and the results were 0, 0, undetectable, and 8.2 respectively. All of the usual suspects were fine and all other livestock appeared normal, so I decided that it must have just been time for the Blenny. I arrived home on Thursday and all was apparently well. Today, since I had the day off, I decided to go ahead and do water change. I changed approximately 10 gallons of filtered (reverse osmosis Kent Marine Hi-S 120 GPD) oxygenated, pH adjusted water like I do every one to two weeks. The only thing different this time was I had a brand new sediment filter and carbon filter installed.
<This last... can be trouble... really need to be soaked, flushed for a few gallons>
The silicate membranes are less than a year old and the only thing that I did to those was reseat them in their housing. The unit worked as normal, trickle product and torrent waste. After I changed the water I was sitting at my computer desk and heard "buzzing." The protein skimmer was foaming like crazy and was dripping onto the power strip. Caught it before anything shorted out, removed the collection cup from the skimmer and let everything continue to run on the spare, dry power strip I have. I checked on the aquarium and no one seemed any worse for the ware. I fed the fish and went about my business. I checked back a couple hours later and my maroon clown was being feasted on by hermit crabs, my yellow tail damsel is nowhere to be found, and my Sebae anemone is shriveled into a ball. My first thought was the anemone died and poisoned the tank. So I grab a large mug from the cabinet and scoop out the anemone, keeping it submerged just in case it isn't dead.
All of the invertebrate life aside from the anemone is fine. I have many tiny hermit crabs and snails all of which are fine and two urchins that are not showing any ill effects. I removed the fish carcasses. This is really disheartening because I have had the damsel since day one after the tank cycled and I have had the Maroon and the anemone for three years. I retested everything
<For what you have tests for...>
and it was exactly as I stated before so I didn't kill them with the filter change I don't think. The electricity is a possible candidate,
<Mmm, no>
but would you have eaten right after you had been severely shocked?
<Not likely... now... a glass of wine...>
My last culprit for all of this is sulfur. During the water change today I hit a pocket of very dark green to black sediment while vacuuming the substrate and the smell was unmistakable (rotten eggs).
<Mmm, a possibility as well... but the invertebrates would have been mal-affected as well>
So since everything is dead I decided to investigate. I started moving rocks around and found that under roughly half of them (the half of the aquarium where the anemone and clown resided) there was black sludge that I immediately vacuumed away after having disturbed it. After all of this I remember the anemone in the mug, I thought it was dead until I started to pour out the water and it was attached to the glass, so I returned it to the aquarium.
Please if anyone can offer some kind of help in explaining what has happened I would be eternally grateful.
Here is a brief synopsis with timeline because I am apparently long winded after I read over this email.
Monday: purchased and installed new filter -->Tuesday: Replaced RO unit cartridges-->Wednesday: Blenny Died, Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate undetectable, pH 8.2, made up water for water change-->Thursday: No problems here-->Friday: sulfur pocket during water change, electrical incident, fed fish (they ate), fish died, anemone shriveled, Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite, and pH values unchanged, found much more sulfur on investigation, contacted
WWM crew
Setup:
55 gallon salt aquarium
Approximately 50 lbs. of live rock
Substrate is a mixture of crushed coral and live sand
Fluval 404 canister filter
Aqua C Remora Protein skimmer
440 watts VHO lighting
Ammonia, Nitrate, and Nitrite 0
pH 8.2
Kent Marine Hi-S Reverse Osmosis unit for water filtration
Michael L. Burroughs, MT (ASCP)
<I do think the Salarias was coincidental and that the carbon filter was likely a root cause... the sulfur pocket perhaps a co-factor. Bob Fenner>

Re: Mysterious Tank Problem   7/5/08
Update
As it turns out the anemone wasn't dead after all. I looked this morning and it isn't in its full glory but it is open, now since I moved it yesterday I
have to worry about it wondering around until it finds a new home if it is in fact healthy.
Michael L. Burroughs, MT (ASCP)
<Ah, good. BobF>

Guerilla Acclimation Techniques
Does this page exist anymore?
<Mmm, yes... renamed: http://wetwebmedia.com/acclimat.htm >
I have read the acclimation page, but in the FAQs people seem to reference another method (guerilla) and several chemicals not used in the acclimation technique on the current acclimation article page. Thanks
Matthew Harless
<Re-named Commercial instead of Guerilla... more PC? Bob Fenner>

Oto loses colour
Hi,
We have a sick Oto which has suddenly lost its pigmentation and is looking a sickly grey. It is swims weakly, sometimes floating at the surface and drifting in the current. Otherwise its body, fins, etc. look in good condition. Can you suggest any remedy or is this something to do with the tank conditions?
We have a 180-litre (40 gallon) community tank with 9 guppies, 3 minnows, a Pleco and 5 Otos altogether. It has some live and plastic plants, a couple of logs and a small rock pile (slate), i.e. there is a relatively large surface area available for the Otos to graze on. It has been set up for about 3 months, but, about 3 weeks ago, we had problems with water quality, fungus and white spot. These were successfully treated with 10% water changes every day and ESHA 2000 and EXIT. Treatment finished 7 days ago. Current conditions pH = 7.8, KH = 6°, GH = 12°. Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels all low.
We have isolated the sick Oto. Grateful for your advice.
Regards,
Quentin
<Hello Quentin. Let me start by making a general statement about Otocinclus: they are extremely difficult to maintain, and the vast majority die soon after import. The problem is that they feed on really only a single thing -- aufwuchs, a combination of green (and exclusively green!) algae together with the tiny invertebrates that live within that green algae 'biofilm'. Unless you have an established aquarium of large size with very strong lighting (2+ watts per gallon) so that green algae can flourish, it is exceedingly unlikely your Otocinclus will be getting enough to eat. How many months it is before they die is variable, but starve they will unless ample substitutes are provided. Algae wafers can work, but Otocinclus find it difficult to compete with other fish, and the fact you have other algae-eaters, specifically guppies and Plecs, makes this point critical. For this reason, I simply don't recommend them as community fish. Furthermore, while water chemistry itself isn't all that important, temperature and water quality are very important. Most people keep their tanks far too warm for Otocinclus, which come from cool, fast-flowing streams and want something in the 20-25 degrees C range rather than the usual 24-28 degrees C most people maintain standard community tropicals at. In other words, a near-subtropical, fast-water tank with things like White Cloud Mountain Minnows and Danios is much closer to what they want than a standard Amazon community aquarium. You also mention ammonia and nitrite levels as being "low" -- but be under no illusions here, Otocinclus MUST have zero levels of both. If you can detect either in your tank, it is simply not suitable for Otocinclus. In all likelihood the sickly specimen will be dead within a few days, so treatment here is irrelevant. Optimizing water quality, lowering water temperature, providing ample green algae and suitable invertebrates would all be things you could do to help the isolated fish, but that's about it. For the rest, you need to ensure your aquarium satisfies the demands outlined above. Hope this helps, Neale.>

Re: Red Sea aquarium fish selection
I'm going to be trying VERY hard to never let ich get a foothold in my 180g. Well, more than just not get a foothold, I'm going to make sure it never gets introduced, to the extent that is possible anyway.
With the fish I had planned on stocking (all Red Sea), Semilarvatus B/F, Raccoon B/F, Blue Throat triggers, Emperor angel and a Purple tang... I was planning on quarantining them all for at least 4 weeks, with 2 of those 4 weeks being in a 1.010 salinity environment.
<... this... won't "do it"... may kill the fishes instead. Read on WWM re hyposalinity please>
The idea behind this is killing any parasites off before introducing into the main tank. I've been reading how some fish don't get along well with copper and I'd rather not risk copper unless needed. Is hyposalinity "less risky" than using copper?
<... read>
I know that a fish very well could have a small amount of ich on it, not show any signs while in quarantine for a month, but still spread it to the main tank, so I'd like to treat all fish for ich regardless as to whether they show it or not.
<... not likely a good idea>
In my mind I'm thinking they will be getting freshwater dips for 10 minutes (or as long as they can stand it, whichever comes first) before going into quarantine, at which point I'll slowly drop the salinity from 1.025 down to 1.010 over the course of a week. I'll keep it at that for 2 weeks, then raise it up to 1.025 over the course of a week, so at the end of 4 weeks they are hopefully parasite free and ready for introduction into the main tank. Does that sound feasible? I've read and read and read about this but I really would appreciate a direct answer, it seems there are so many variables, some fish don't respond well to some treatments while others simply go blind from them, while others could care less.
Also, we had discussed me adding a goatfish to this mix. My main reasoning behind it was to keep the sand stirred (only a inch sandbed of sugar sized aragonite) in the main tank. I'm thinking that most likely there will be a spot or two on the sand bed that don't have optimal water flow and have the potential to get a Cyanobacteria coating, the goatfish should keep the sand stirred up to the point that doesn't happen. However, do they require special feeding or will the usual fish foods that make it down to the bottom be enough to keep him fat and happy? I'll be feeding a huge variety of foods including those New Life Spectrum sinking pellets, so I'm sure he will have plenty of opportunity to munch away.
I'm wondering if a goatfish is somewhat like a sand sifting Seastar, in that it will decimate my sandbed to the point it has almost no beneficial small life forms? I want there to be copepods and amphipods and what not in the sand bed to help with detritus management and what not... so if the goatfish is going to totally eradicate those I might avoid putting on in there and hopefully not have problems with a unstirred sand bed? Ideas?
<Reading>
Thanks again Bob for all the helpful answers you've given me. Whenever you head to Alaska to do a cold water dive, you are welcome to come have some beers at my place.
<RMF>