Oto loses colour
Hi,
We have a sick Oto which has suddenly lost its pigmentation and is looking a sickly grey. It is swims weakly, sometimes floating at the surface and drifting in the current. Otherwise its body, fins, etc. look in good condition. Can you suggest any remedy or is this something to do with the tank conditions?
We have a 180-litre (40 gallon) community tank with 9 guppies, 3 minnows, a Pleco and 5 Otos altogether. It has some live and plastic plants, a couple of logs and a small rock pile (slate), i.e. there is a relatively large surface area available for the Otos to graze on. It has been set up for about 3 months, but, about 3 weeks ago, we had problems with water quality, fungus and white spot. These were successfully treated with 10% water changes every day and ESHA 2000 and EXIT. Treatment finished 7 days ago. Current conditions pH = 7.8, KH = 6°, GH = 12°. Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels all low.
We have isolated the sick Oto. Grateful for your advice.
Regards,
Quentin
<Hello Quentin. Let me start by making a general statement about Otocinclus: they are extremely difficult to maintain, and the vast majority die soon after import. The problem is that they feed on really only a single thing -- aufwuchs, a combination of green (and exclusively green!) algae together with the tiny invertebrates that live within that green algae 'biofilm'. Unless you have an established aquarium of large size with very strong lighting (2+ watts per gallon) so that green algae can flourish, it is exceedingly unlikely your Otocinclus will be getting enough to eat. How many months it is before they die is variable, but starve they will unless ample substitutes are provided. Algae wafers can work, but Otocinclus find it difficult to compete with other fish, and the fact you have other algae-eaters, specifically guppies and Plecs, makes this point critical. For this reason, I simply don't recommend them as community fish. Furthermore, while water chemistry itself isn't all that important, temperature and water quality are very important. Most people keep their tanks far too warm for Otocinclus, which come from cool, fast-flowing streams and want something in the 20-25 degrees C range rather than the usual 24-28 degrees C most people maintain standard community tropicals at. In other words, a near-subtropical, fast-water tank with things like White Cloud Mountain Minnows and Danios is much closer to what they want than a standard Amazon community aquarium. You also mention ammonia and nitrite levels as being "low" -- but be under no illusions here, Otocinclus MUST have zero levels of both. If you can detect either in your tank, it is simply not suitable for Otocinclus. In all likelihood the sickly specimen will be dead within a few days, so treatment here is irrelevant. Optimizing water quality, lowering water temperature, providing ample green algae and suitable invertebrates would all be things you could do to help the isolated fish, but that's about it. For the rest, you need to ensure your aquarium satisfies the demands outlined above. Hope this helps, Neale.>

What is wrong with our poor Betta?   7/5/08
Hello again,
<Sandy>
Since moving our Betta from his plastic half gallon kit home to a 10 gallon home with live plants and 5-20 Aqua Clear filter, he was doing very well. No need for heater yet - we live in Florida and will get a heater come September when the temps begin to drop below mid 70's at night and we can open the windows again.
<Mmm... actually do need the heater now... Not so much a given temp., but any large fluctuation you're trying to avoid... just set and leave... they're thermostatic>
Plant lights keep the water at 80 degrees constantly in the days and it is never below 79 when I check on him in the mornings.
<Oh!?>
Betta began to swim back and forth at the front of the tank - looked like he was pacing frantically.
Definitely not swimming around the tank checking things out.
<Mmm, perhaps it's seeing its own reflection, and reacting to same. Very common... see below>
We decided to get a 6 long-finned Danios to see how he would manage some company. I was at first concerned that he would get the Danios, but he couldn't even get near the Danios. They are some crazy, active fish!
<Ah yes. Frenetic... like I wish our federal lame-duck gov't was>
Betta seemed very unconcerned with the Danios after the second day.
By the end of the 4th day, I noticed him head down in the corner of the front of the tank not moving at all. Then the next day I thought he was "stuck" in the Japanese lantern structure, but he was just hanging out there for a while. Then later that evening, I saw him wedge himself between the Wisteria and the side glass and just stay there - head down again. A few hours later, I saw him at the top rear corner of the tank not moving at all, even after I tapped the glass.
I thought he was just stressed by the energy and activity of the Danios, which is pretty constant. I filled his little plastic half gallon tank with the same tank water and put him back in with his plastic plant and purple gravel - where he had weekly 75+% water changes. He immediately perked up, but not for long. He now seems quite listless again, although not as bad as in the 10 gallon tank - he has also looked "fat", but not bloated to me for a few weeks now, but I didn't think too much of it until recently. He does not seem injured at all and I have looked closely.
He is fed Hikari pellets - about 4-6 pellets twice a day and Hikari dried bloodworms every other day or so. We have had him for almost 2 years now, and he was the same size when we got him, so I assume, he might have been at least almost fully mature when we got him - no idea how old this fish really is. Could he just be getting old, and have I pushed him over the edge with the Danios?
<Perhaps both>
The fish manager at Petsmart said Bettas are naturally territorial
<Really only towards other male Bettas, or what they perceive as such>
and the fact that he couldn't do anything about the Danios was probably extremely stressful. He thought a divider might be just as stressful.
<Mmm, no>
I went to WWM and read your Betta pages twice. Very helpful. You are all so wonderful and help us to take much better care of our finned friends.
<Is our goal to help others understand, provide good care, enjoy/appreciate the living world, themselves>
My kids 13, 4 and 2, are in love with the Danios. Much more entertaining to watch than the Betta, if not as colorful.
<Ahhh>
Would you recommend putting him back in the 10 gallon tank with a divider?
<Yes... of the given options, this is best>
Or do you think that being able to see the Danios would remain a stress for him? I know - hard to say, but I hate to think of him being in the filter less "tank" again - now that I know better. I will probably put some of the live plants in his little tank until I hear from you. If he is just getting older and tired, I would like him to live out his old age peacefully.
Thanks again,
Sandy
<And do try covering one end or the back of the aquarium with paper... and tape, on the outside... Could be that interacting with the reflection alluded to above that is causing this fish to be "bummed out". Bob Fenner>

Problems with Fluval filter 7/4/08
Hello
<Hello>
I am having problems with my Fluval filter for my turtle tank! I change it as usual and I have done this for like 6 months now, no problems, well last night, the filter is not priming and sending water back into the filter to fill up properly.
<Is this a sudden change?>
I have checked and re-checked hose connections, interior of filter, properly installed filter media, etc...
I don't know why the water is not being taken in when primed and filling up canister?? The motor seems fine as well, I am frustrated!
Any suggestions would be appreciated,
Ro-
<Short of any obstructions (in the tubing, impeller, media, etc.), you may need to replace the rotor/impeller of the filter. Over time (years), the magnet can lose strength, requiring replacement. Do try cleaning the impeller/rotor and the area it sits in thoroughly with vinegar first. Scott V.>

Re: Problems with Fluval filter 7/4/08
Thank you, I will try that.
Ro-
<Welcome, Scott V.>

My zippy goldfish, pond   7/4/08
Hello - I have been reading your threads, hoping to find an answer to my very simple question...
<Did you?>
I purchased two "feeder" comets from my LFS approx. one month ago. They currently live in a 40 gallon pond on my deck with several water lettuce, water hyacinth, a vigorous water lily, some parrot feather, moneywort and a hornwort plant.
<This is a lot of plant life for such a small volume... likely shifts water quality a great deal... too much, diurnally>
I made a filter for them from things l had at hand, and it seems to be working like a dream. The filter/pump empties into a small fish spitter and the little eco system seems to be working quite well. I do a 10% water change once, sometimes twice a week (I use the pond water to water my container garden on the deck), have put a few barley pellets in to keep the algae down (so far, I haven't seen any, at all) and my pond gets about 6-8 hours of sunlight a day.
I feed my two gold fish one tiny little sinking pellet a day (they are only about an inch in size, each - but have grown a 1/4" since I got them!) and they seem to be doing well. They especially seem to enjoy hanging out among the roots of the floating plants.
My spitter sits on three concrete blocks, which also provides some shade/hiding spots for them.
<Sounds good>
My question is - when I do see them out from under the plants, they are SUPER zippy. They swim about at an accelerated pace, and I'm wondering if they are a bit stressed, or afraid when they are not under cover. The only time I have seen them slow down is when they are nibbling the worst or nibbling at their food. Although one appears to have grown a bit larger (and I'm thinking its female) and will often push the other around when there's food, they follow each other about the tank and tend to "hang out" under the plants together.
I do not have nitrate or ammonia testers, but I do test the ph (its currently at about 7.5-8.0)
<This is too large a "swing"... In part what I alluded to at first>
These are my first fish (I plan to have a 100 gallon pond for them for next summer when they get a bit bigger), and although I've quite enjoyed the research I've conducted so far, I want to make sure they are doing well, have fish-happiness and are healthy.
<I see>
Thank you for your assistance.
-Leanne (and Hugo and Zero)
<Well, the "zippiness" may be nothing to be concerned about. With warm/er water conditions, goldfish tend to be more active. As long as they are eating, appear fine otherwise, I would not be concerned. Do keep up with those weekly water changes. Bob Fenner>

Sick fire eel  7/4/08
Hello,
<Hi there>
I am desperately seeking help for my sick fire eel. I have had several fire eels in the past and have done very well with them but I have a very Sick one on my hands right now. My eel is about 25 inches long and very was very healthy looking, about 3 inches tall and nice and full, I have never had one That was this big before.
<Is very good size>
Then one day I noticed (and I check on my fish every day, so it looked like the eel was fine one day and was having problems the next) my eel was upside down in his tube. My eel kept trying to get upright but would just keep rotating around, (I don't know his sex but I'm just going to refer to my eel as he) he looked fine on the outside, he has No visible marks or sores but he is starting to breath very heavy. I have a feeling it might have something to do with his diet, since he is so big I have been feeding him minnows and almost everyday.
<Mmm...>
From what I have read from your web it wasn't the best thing for him and he may have overeaten?
<This or parasites... a lack of some nutrient...>
I went to the fish store and have read the questions on your web site, but I haven't had any luck making him any better. Myself and the fish store I deal with thought it must be some kind of parasite or infection inside (from the minnows)
<Yes, most likely>
so I bought some prozi-pro
<Something like this... Praziquantel is only for worms... what if this is a protozoan?>
and tried that. No luck.
I did water changes and went back to the fish store and they suggested trying TC Tetracycoline
<Mmm, not this antibiotic either>
(spelling might be off I'm at work and don't have the box with me) I have tried a full cycle of that with water changes and still no luck. It has been over a week and he is getting worse, I feel so bad for him, he is breathing really labored and heavy at times, I feel so helpless. He now just Hangs upside down at the top, it's almost like he is paralyzed, he try's to move sometimes but just can't. The only other fish I have in the tank are My discus, so I want to be careful I don't stress them out either.
Please Help,
Thank You,
Cherie
<Read on WWM re the one-time use of Metronidazole/Flagyl. Bob Fenner>

Changing Lots of Water In Two Vey Large Aquariums  7/3/08
Hi Crew, I have just purchased 2 x 125 gallon tanks (one for general community tropical fish and the other for Malawi cichlids) and would like your advice on how the most efficiently perform water changes. Till now I have had a comparatively small 34 gallon tank which I weekly take 3 buckets of water from and replace with fresh water. Using buckets will not be viable for the new tanks however as it would take all day to get enough water out and replaced. I am considering buying a pump and hose pipe to flush the old water down the drain then filling a large water butt with warm dechlorinated water and using the pump to get the clean water in.
Is this how large tank owners usually perform their water changes?? Any ideas you have to make this process easier would be gratefully received!! Many thanks Brian
< Check out the Python Water Change System. It cleans the gravel at the same time it removes water from the aquarium. You could use a large submersible pump to remove the water but it wouldn't clean the gravel at the same time. The same system can replace the water in the tank. The only problem is when to add the dechlorinator. I would recommend that you get two five gallon buckets and place them next to the aquarium you are going to refill. Place the DeChlor in each bucket, Fill up the first bucket with water and place it in the aquarium. As the second bucket starts for fill you can add the DeChlor to the first bucket you just emptied. Repeat until the tank gets filled. You could always fill two plastic 55 gallon drums add the dechlorinator and pump them in to the aquariums too.-Chuck>

Cross Breeding
Jack Dempsey Breeds With Severum  7/3/08
Hi, I have a question about cross breeding. First off we started out with a small catfish and a Gourami, Then we added a full grown Severum and a Jack Dempsey that were bought from the same tank. Since the day we brought them home they have been paired up, anyway my Severum has laid her first batch of eggs (that I know of) and my Jack Dempsey is, I think , fertilizing them. So my question is will the eggs survive being cross bred? They seem to be protecting them very well, should I take out the eggs? If so how would I go about doing that? Thank you very much for your time. Kim
< In the wild these two fish never see each other. The Severum is from South America and the Jack Dempsey is from Central America. There are many weird cichlid crosses out there but I have never heard of this one before. The eggs should hatch in three days if the are viable. In three more days the fry should be free swimming. The eggs can be removed at any time. Fill an aquarium with the same water from the main tank that the pair have spawned in. Place the eggs with object the eggs were laid on in the tank and maintain the same water temp and provide strong aeration too. Dead eggs will turn whits and begin to develop a fungus.-Chuck>

My goldfish is flipping out  7/3/08
Hello!
<Hello indeed!>
New here!
<Welcome!>
We had two goldfish for about 3-4 weeks. This morning, one was dead. I took him out immediately, checked the filter (looked like it needed to be replaced and so I replaced it), and cleaned the tank.
<Be careful here; replacing all the filter media will re-cycle your tank>
The fish that is alive has been swimming super-fast all over the tank...not upside-down at
all. He swims back and forth, up and down...almost like he is trying to come through the tank.
<He may well be trying to escape...toxic water conditions>
He also seems to swim in the front of the tank, not in the back at all. His mouth is gaping very very often as well (I don't recall it doing that before). I've put some food in the tank but he doesn't go to the top to eat it as he always has. I noticed him this evening picking at the bottom of the rocks.
I don't want him to die either. I feel terrible about the one dying (they
were a gift for our daughter when she learned to swim underwater). We are not ready to replace the other fish if this one isn't going to make it and continue a death cycle!
Here are some specifics: 2.5 gallon tank (I know now after reading other posts),
<In this case rather than replacing a fish, consider replacing your aquarium. A goldfish needs at least 15-20 gallons to prevent rapid build-up of nitrogenous wastes, and swimming room, etc.>
whisper filter- medium, he doesn't have cloudy eyes nor does his body look damaged or discolored, the food we have is Wardley Goldfish Flake food,
<Do read re goldfish nutrition on wetwebmedia.com; this food will not suffice in the long term.>
I have not tested the water (didn't know about that until reading some other posts), he is about 1.5" long and I did not attempt to give him a minced pea.
<The pea is a laxative, generally. Vegetable matter is always appreciated by goldfish, though. I would recommend purchasing some test kits if you wish to continue with aquaria- avoid the dip strip variety, as they tend to be of widely questionable accuracy. Also continue to do some reading on WetWebMedia re aquarium husbandry, water changes, feeding, etc.>
We are not familiar with caring for goldfish and thought that it wouldn't be daunting aside from feeding them and cleaning the tank. With one dead, I want to make sure the other one doesn't die because of something I did wrong.
<Understood. Many of us come in to this hobby without the faintest of what we're doing- who thought keeping ecosystems in glass boxes could be so complicated, eh?>
Any advice you can give is greatly appreciated. I read lots of posts before bugging you so I apologize if you answered this for someone else already.
If you have, do you have the direct link to that posting?
<I would just use the index to find some of the pages on basic freshwater aquarium keeping. Do a few small water changes on your goldfish's tank to keep him alive in the meantime, and research, research, research before setting up an appropriate aquarium for the fish you and your daughter ultimately wish to keep. You will find the time and money invested will repay you thousandfold times in enjoyment and health- both for the fish and your sanity!>
Many thanks for your time and consideration,
<No problem, Lisa. Why don't you drop by our forum at bb.wetwebmedia.com as well; many knowledgeable people there who would no doubt be happy to answer setup questions, product questions, etc as you continue on this odyssey>
Lisa
<Benjamin>

Bala shark and silver dollar fish, hlth., eyes are more than mirrors of the soul...   7/3/08
Hi, I recently adopted 6 tropical fish. It was a long process. so the fish were without a filter and pump for about 3-4 hrs, but before we got to them they were in a large bucket with an air pump for about 2-3hrs. Anyways we got them setup in a 55 gal tank. The following morning we notice the Bala shark and silver dollar fish had cloudy eyes. All the other fish are fine. I would like to know are the fishes just stressed or does it sound like a parasite. We were told by the previous owners that they are all healthy. please write me back. Thank you Annie
<Cloudy eyes can be caused by a variety of things, but by far the most probable are physical damage and/or water quality issues. If multiple fish have cloudy eyes, then I'd suggest water quality is the thing. So review in particular the nitrite and/or ammonia levels, and also check that the pH is stable (doesn't matter much what it is, just that it doesn't change). Repair water quality, starting at the least with a 50% water change using a good water conditioner. I'd also treat proactively with an anti-Finrot medication such as Maracyn or eSHa 2000. These medications will roll back any opportunistic bacterial infections that left untreated will blind your fish. Melafix and salt are largely worthless for this type of thing, so don't be conned into those! Cheers, Neale.>

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* Sleeker, quieter and more efficient.
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* Easier to use. Whisper[R] EX is ready to go right out of the box.
To experience the next generation in aquarium filtration now, click here.
http://www.tetra-fish.com/sites/TetraFish/aquarium/AquariumContentTwoColumn.aspx?id=2416
<Nice graphic, ideas... Wish I were receiving monies for the cartridge replacements. Bob Fenner>

RES shell problem - 7/2/08
My room mate has a red ear slider about 3-4". She is active and eats well. She has a sun lamp and occasional sun exposure and plenty of basking space. I recently noticed that the center of her shell appears to be brown rather than the green that the edges are. There is a definite ring where the color changes from green to brown. Is she just getting ready to shed that part of her shell or is she sick. I have done some research and just can't seem to find an answer and was hoping you could help.
<Likely no problem here... as younger, growing turtles often do display such color differences. I would suggest you read through our Red Ear Slider area: Starting with Darrel's excellent article: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm
and on to the linked files above.... and try to assure this animal is receiving sufficient nutrition, particularly Vitamin D... for shell growth. Bob Fenner>

Betta Doesn't Like His Cave - 7/2/08
Hello
<Hello Helen!>
thanks for taking my question.
<Thanks for your appreciation!>
I am a new beta mom, and have a happy little guy (so far)
he is in a 1 gallon tank that has an air pump and lamp. (Bernie's Betta Cove)
<1 gallon is a passable home for a Betta, and much better than a bowl or cup, but he'd really love a nice 2 or 5 gallon aquarium. A filter of some sort would be good, and a heater is a must with these fish, unless the ambient room temperature is high- 78-80 degrees Fahrenheit.>
I've read that betas like having a cave to hide in, so I gave my finned friend a porcelain tea cup (no sharp edges, and water proof) sitting sideways.
He has totally ignored it. Is it because it is white and is too bright? I put some gravel in it so he can see he can go in it, but after 1 week, he has not even tried to go in it.
The cup is big enough to accommodate him w/ his fins flared, so I am at a loss as to why he is not interested.
<Not a natural cave- and a bit shallow, so he'll feel like a cornered animal.>
Shall I just remove it to give him back his space?
<I would>
Should I try a silk plant instead?
<Some silk plants- or live ones- might be appreciated. Just stay away from any that have places his fins could get caught or torn>
(I only run the air pump for 1 hr a day, and also keep it at a fairly
low flow, so as not to make the water too turbulent)
<Air bubbling really isn't necessary, as surface exchange of gas will provide plenty of oxygen. This is especially true if you were to add a small filter, set to a low current, which would gently circulate top and bottom water. In addition to opercular gills, Betta spp. are Anabantoid fish, which means they have a very small lung in the forehead region- this allows them to both make the bubble nests we are familiar with, as well as get at least some of their oxygen needs directly from the air in potentially hypoxic situations.>
thanks for your thoughts
<No trouble. Enjoy your new friend, if you haven't give the Betta habitat articles, FAQ on wetwebmedia.com a read.>
Helen
<Benjamin>

African Knifefish Problem.. it died. - 7/2/08
Hello,
Recently I had bought two more fish to add to my 75 gallon tank; a Senegal Bichir and an African Knifefish, a Domino Synodontis and another Senegal Bichir were already in the tank.
The first night the African Knifefish was added I had noticed a white spot on his side that looked almost like a bite.
<Likely what it was. Whilst the fish listed here can work acceptable in robust community tanks, both Polypterus and Xenomystus have the potential to be aggressively predatory, particularly if they are hungry. Neither has good eyesight, and both hunt primarily by smell and using their lateral line. Or put another way, they sometimes bite whatever comes in range!>
The Bichirs I have are very calm and peaceful and didn't mind the Knifefish, actually when we got them from That Fish Place they were in the same tank together. The catfish rarely comes out of his hiding spot and never bothers any of the other fish, so I do not know how he would have gotten a bite.
<Synodontis do tend to avoid being bothered by other fish. For one thing they are quite heavily armoured (and armed). Synodontis also have a few behavioural features that help. They are, as you note, very retiring. They also tend to attack things that annoy them. Finally, they make "clicking" sounds that disturb other fish, and seem to work as quite a useful anti-predation mechanism (in Africa, Synodontis are known as Squeakers).>
Over the next day that spot had gotten larger, it didn't even seem to bother him though. He was eating and very active. That night the spot had spread to an off-black color and began to stretch across the other side of his body.
<When wounds get larger, even if they don't seem to "bother" the fish, you need to do two things: [a] establish the cause; and [b] treat preemptively for Finrot and Fungus.>
I did a 20% water change and set the temperature to 80 degrees.
Yesterday he seemed to be doing fine, even the spot looked like it was shrinking.
This morning when I turned on the light he was on the bottom of the tank upside down. I'm just wondering what could have happened to my Knifefish.
<Quite likely a secondary infection, perhaps exacerbated by stress or starvation, depending on how well settled and how well fed the fish might have been. Juvenile Xenomystus are somewhat gregarious, and the singleton might have been bullied by the Polypterus senegalus. That said, P. senegalus is generally very well behaved, particularly when compared to other members of its genus, so to be honest I'd be surprised if this combination of species didn't work in a tank of decent size and adequate numbers of hiding places. I'd review water quality and water chemistry simply as a matter of course; whilst Polypterus and to some extend Synodontis are "hardy" in the sense of being easy to keep, Xenomystus (like other Knifefish) are FAR from hardy in aquaria, and can be killed by ammonia/nitrite, rapid pH changes, many fish medications such as those containing copper and formalin. So there's a range of things to review there.>
Any information at all would be wonderful, thanks.
-Carly
<Cheers, Neale.>

Gourami with a bloated abdomen. - 7/2/08
Hello there. I have a dwarf Gourami with a bloated abdomen. It looks pregnant however, it also looks as though it is bruised. The area in front of the bulging abdomen is dark purple/blue like a skin bruise on a human. Half of the lower fin is this color too. The only tank mate is a giant golden snail. I clean the take regularly and change the filter as recommended. Please help. Thanks.
Sincerely,
Glenda
<Glenda, your Dwarf Gourami almost certainly has Dwarf Gourami Iridovirus; an untreatable, highly contagious to other Dwarf Gouramis, apparently 100% fatal viral disease. The symptoms are very consistent: loss of appetite and shyness; loss of colour; appearance of blisters on the body and fins; swelling of the abdomen; death. Your mistake was buying this species at all -- in my opinion the prevalence of the disease amongst mass-produced Dwarf Gouramis is so high that spending money on them is a waste. My recommendation is to painlessly destroy this fish and then switch to a reliable small Gourami species such as Colisa labiosus or Colisa fasciata.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWsubwebindex/dwfgdis.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/euthanasiafaqs.htm
Cheers, Neale.>