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Related FAQs: FW Troubleshooting,
Freshwater Disease, Freshwater
Disease 2, Freshwater Disease 3,
Toxic Situations,
Infectious
FAQs, Parasitic FAQs, Ich/White
Spot Disease, Worm Diseases,
Freshwater
Medications, Nutritional Disease,
Goldfish Disease, African Cichlid Disease 1,
Cichlid
Disease, Related Articles:
Freshwater Diseases, Freshwater
Maintenance, Freshwater Infectious
and Parasitic Disease, Ich/White
Spot Disease,
Choose Your Weapon: Freshwater Fish Disease Treatment
Options by Neale Monks,
Freshwater Aquarium, Livestock Disease
Troubleshooting
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© Neale Monks 2007 |
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Freshwater fish can suffer from a variety
of ailments, but only a relatively small number are commonly encountered. The
key below will help you identify the most frequently seen freshwater fish health
problems. Identifying the exact problem is important, because without knowing
what you treating, you cannot choose the correct medication. Merely adding
medications at random is unlikely to work.
In many cases, the disease itself is a
symptom of a larger problem. Fishes with finrot may be suffering from a
bacterial infection, but the reason they are sick at all is almost always
problems with water quality. Similarly, the appearance of whitespot (ick) in an
established aquarium typically follows on from adding new fish that haven't been
quarantined first.
Keeping your fish disease-free is
generally much easier than trying to identify and treat diseases once they
happen. Choose fishes suited to the water conditions you have in your aquarium.
Buy healthy fish from clean, well-run stores. Quarantine them carefully before
adding them to your tank. Maintain proper levels of cleanliness in the aquarium.
Perform regular water changes. Test the water chemistry and water quality
regularly, especially with newly set-up aquaria. Avoid live foods that can
transfer diseases (feeder fish and tubifex worms) or stick with frozen foods or
dried foods. Many fish are omnivores and need algae or plant matter in their
diet, so provide some. Isolate sick fish, and treat diseases immediately. Some
diseases, such as finrot, start off easy to cure but can develop into lethal,
difficult to cure problems when ignored.
|
1a |
Dwarf gourami
(including artificial forms like neon gourami and powder blue gourami)
lethargic, not eating properly, eventually with bloody sores or blisters
on the skin. |
Dwarf gourami
disease
(DGD). Sometimes caused by a bacteria, sometimes by a virus. Bacterial
form may be treated at early stages with antibiotics; otherwise
untreatable. Quarantine sick fish immediately as DGD is highly
contagious. Provide optimal water conditions and hope for a natural
recovery; otherwise destroy the fish painlessly. DGD is most easily
avoided by not keeping dwarf gouramis, but instead opting for similar
but resistant species such as
Colisa labiosus
and Colisa fasciata. |
|
1b |
Not a dwarf
gourami showing these symptoms |
Go to 2a. |
|
2a |
Neon tetra (and
only rarely cardinal or other tetras) staying away from others in the
school, hiding away, not eating, eventually losing colour and becoming
listless. |
Neon tetra disease
(NTD) caused by the protozoan parasite
Pleistophora.
Essentially untreatable, even with antibiotics, and sick fish should be
destroyed painlessly. Highly contagious, though apparently primarily
through sick or dead fish being pecked at or eaten by other fish, hence
removing sick fish is a major step in preventing infection of the other
fish. |
|
2b |
Not a neon tetra
showing these symptoms. |
Go to 3a. |
|
3a |
Fish swollen, with
scales protruding at an odd angle from the body, giving it a pine
cone-like appearance. |
Go to 4a. |
|
3b |
Fish not notably
swollen. |
Go to 5a. |
|
4a |
Lake Malawi or
Tanganyika cichlid, showing classic signs of accumulation of fluid in
the body cavity together with heavy breathing, odd behaviour, lack of
appetite, and stringy faeces. |
Malawi Bloat,
precise causes unknown but a variety of factors have been identified.
The use of marine or tonic salt in an attempt to harden the water is one
consistent factor. Poor diet is another factor, especially the overuse
of meaty foods with species that are primarily herbivorous in the wild.
Stress and poor water quality may also be important factors. Once fish
are visibly sick, the prognosis is poor, and treatments with antibiotics
and commercial medications have had mixed results. Prevention is better
than cure. |
|
4b |
Body swollen due
to accumulation of fluid in the body cavity. Often accompanied by other
symptoms of ill-health such as listlessness, poor appetite, and odd
swimming behaviour. Note that a few fishes have naturally protruding
scales, notably male
Pachypanchax playfairi
at spawning time. |
Dropsy,
a symptom of a wide variety of diseases, almost always at a stage too
late for treatment. Small fish like guppies with dropsy should be
destroyed painlessly, and even treating larger fish like koi without
veterinary assistance is very difficult indeed. Dropsy is not especially
contagious, but it does seem to be common in tanks with poor water
conditions or where the fish have been provided with an unhealthy diet.
As such, reviewing aquarium maintenance is important to prevent other
fish from becoming sick. |
|
5a |
Fish bears
off-white to brown lumps with a cauliflower-like texture, sometimes
small but potentially large. These growths are commonly on the fins but
may be elsewhere. Otherwise the fish seems healthy and happy. |
Lymphocystis,
a relatively benign, non-contagious viral condition. Generally uncommon
in freshwater fishes and almost only ever seen on members of "advanced"
taxa such as spiny eels, cichlids, pufferfish, etc. Apparently caused by
poor environmental conditions. Untreatable, though vets may be able to
cut away damaged tissue on large fish. Being a viral disease,
antibiotics have no effect at all. Primarily a cosmetic problem, after a
period of many months (even years) the growths may disappear by
themselves. Tumours
are superficially similar but are part of the fish and usually have a
visible network of blood vessels. Often have a silvery or pearly
appearance thanks to the stretched skin. Most are benign (like warts on
humans) and may go away eventually by themselves. Exceptions are where
the tumours block the mouth, gills, or anus, in which case the fish
should be painlessly destroyed. |
|
5b |
Fish does not have
these growths. |
Go to 6a. |
|
6a |
One or both eyes
protruding abnormally from the head. The fish seems otherwise healthy. |
Pop-eye
or exophthalmia is a condition that may be caused by water quality
issues, physical damage to the eye, bacterial or parasitic infections,
and metabolic disorders. It cannot be treated directly, but providing
optimal diet and water conditions can help reverse the symptoms.
Antibiotics may help in cases where infections are the cause. Not
normally contagious, but frequently a sign that aquarium conditions or
maintenance is faulty. |
|
6b |
Eyes not
protruding. |
Go to 7a. |
|
7a |
Eyes cloudy. |
Cloudy eyes
can be caused by a variety of problems. Poor handling when fish are
netted is one common cause. Nutritional imbalance, fungal infections,
and certain worms can also cause these symptoms. Treatment is difficult,
and essentially comes down to providing optimal water conditions and the
correct diet and waiting for the symptoms to go away. Eye flukes
(cataract worms) in particular cannot complete their life cycle in an
aquarium, and will eventually die off without being able to infect other
fish. |
|
7b |
Eyes not cloudy. |
Go to 8a. |
|
8a |
Mouth covered with
of-white or grey growths, somewhat slimy in appearance. In advanced
cases such growths may appear also on the body and fins. Infected fish
often show odd swimming behaviours and loss of appetite. |
Mouth fungus
is caused by a bacterium (not a fungus) called
Flexibacter columnaris.
The root cause is almost always poor water quality or the wrong water
conditions. Correct these underlying factors is critical to fixing the
problem in the long term. Treatment of the symptoms can be obtained
using commercial medications but advanced cases may require antibiotics. |
|
8b |
Fish do not show
these symptoms. |
Go to 9a. |
|
9a |
Sections of fin
missing. |
Go to 10a. |
|
9b |
Fins do not have
bits missing. |
Go to 12a. |
|
10a |
Fins have obvious,
discrete bite-marks that seem to appear suddenly. At least initially,
the fins show no signs of infection. |
Fin-nipping
is a behaviour of some fishes towards others, typically the victim being
large, slow-moving, or having longer than normal fins. Notorious
fin-nippers include serpae tetras, tiger barbs, black widow tetras,
dwarf upside-down catfish, and certain pufferfish. Regular victims of
fin-nippers include fancy guppies, angelfish, gouramis, bettas, and
fancy goldfish. The immediate "treatment" is to separate the fin-nipper
from the victim. Anti-fungus and anti-finrot remedy should also be used
prophylactically to prevent damaged fins becoming infected. |
|
10b |
Fins becoming
gradually more damaged over time and across a large area of the fin. |
Go to 11a. |
|
11a |
Fin membranes
"eaten away" leaving the fin rays largely intact. There is usually a
noticeable whitish region where the fin is being eaten away. Can spread
onto the body of the fish if left untreated, creating open, bloody sores
and eventually damage to the internal organs. |
Finrot
is caused by a variety of bacteria such as
Aeromonas
and Pseudomonas.
Essentially a reflection of poor aquarium conditions, though clumsy
handling, fin-nipping, fighting, and the wrong diet are additional
factors. Fancy goldfish are very sensitive to finrot when kept in
too-cold water, for example in a pond that freezes over. Easily treated
with commercial medications in its early stages, finrot will require
antibiotics if allowed to develop into a more serious infection,
septicaemia. |
|
11b |
Fins ragged with
both membranes and fin rays missing. Patches of thread-like fibres are
clearly visible. Can spread onto the body if left untreated. |
Fungus
will usually set in where the fins have been damaged in some way, but it
may also be caused by keeping the fish in appropriate water conditions.
Maintenance of brackish water fish in freshwater conditions frequently
leads to fungal infections. Readily treated in its early stages with
commercial anti-fungus medications. Not contagious as such, but the
conditions that cause fungus can allow more than one fish in the tank to
develop the symptoms. Advanced cases of
mouth fungus
can also cause symptoms similar fungus, where the bacteria have spread
from the face onto the body and fins (see 8a). |
|
12a |
Body and fins
dusted with small white or yellow spots. |
Go to 13a. |
|
12b |
Body does not have
these spots. |
Go to 14a. |
|
13a |
Discrete small
white spots on fins and skin. Each spot looks like a grain of salt.
There may be only one or two spots at first, but dozens or hundreds in
advanced cases. Fish often scratch themselves against structures in the
aquarium, such as rocks. Ventilation of the gills is often more rapid
than normal. |
Whitespot
disease, also known as
ick, is caused by the
protozoan parasite
Ichthyophthirius.
Very commonly seen in freshwater aquaria, often when new fish are
introduced to an established tank. Also common when tropical fish are
kept insufficiently warm or other environmental parameters are not
conducive to their health. Most easily cured using commercial
anti-whitespot/ick medications. Not fatal if treated quickly, but if
left untreated eventually damages the gills irreversibly. |
|
13b |
Fine off-white to
gold powder on skin and fins. The individual spots are smaller than
those of whitespot disease, and give the impression the fish was dipped
in confectioner's sugar. |
Velvet
disease, caused by the protozoan parasite
Oodinium.
Relatively uncommon in freshwater aquaria. May be treated using
commercial remedies; many anti-whitespot also treat velvet. Like
whitespot, can cause damage to the gills if left untreated, eventually
leading to death. |
|
14a |
Large white, grey,
or pink spots, irregular in shape, often clumped together to form
phlegm- or wax-like masses. |
Fish pox
is a viral infection, and as such is essentially untreatable.
Antibiotics, salt baths, and so on have no effect. Under good conditions
it seems to fade away eventually though it may recur. Fish pox does not
seem to be particularly contagious and doesn't seem to cause the fish
any undue suffering. Very rarely seen in tropical fish, it is mostly an
issue with goldfish and koi. |
|
14b |
Fish does not show
these symptoms. |
Go to 15a. |
|
15a |
Fish "treading
water", rocking from side to side and clearly having trouble swimming
normally. |
The shimmies
is a name used to describe this sign of damage to the nervous system. It
can be a secondary symptom of a variety of diseases, but is most
commonly observed with mollies kept in the wrong water conditions.
Mollies do best in hard, alkaline, slightly brackish water. In soft and
acidic water especially, they are prone to getting the shimmies along
with finrot and fungus. There is no specific treatment to the shimmies,
but transferring the fish to the appropriate water conditions will
generally improve things quite rapidly. Other symptoms, such as finrot,
will need to be treated as well. |
|
15b |
Fish not behaving
in this way. |
Go to 16a. |
|
16a |
Fish behaving in
an odd manner, swimming in a peculiar way, but otherwise seem physically
normal. |
Go to 17a. |
|
16b |
Fish not
exhibiting such behaviour. |
Go to 18a. |
|
17a |
Fish gasping at
the surface, breathing heavily, and swimming nervously, often rapidly
darting about. They may try to jump out of the aquarium. Tiger barbs
will swim head-downwards, while air-breathing fish like
Corydoras
will dash to the surface to gulp air more frequently than normally. Many
species will adopt subdued or otherwise abnormal colouration. |
Signs of distress
such as these are warnings that something has changed in the aquarium
making the water inhospitable. The most common problems are failure of
the filtration system and sudden changes in the pH/hardness of the
water. Toxic substances can cause similar symptoms, for example paint
fumes and insecticide sprays. Identify the problem, and perform remedial
action at once. Almost always, performing multiple, large-scale water
changes will provide a useful "first aid" to such problems. |
|
17b |
Fish attempting to
swim normally but seem unable to maintain proper posture, rolling over
or holding an unusual orientation. |
Swim bladder
problems
can be caused by bacterial and viral infections but the most common
cause is malnutrition. Feeding high-fibre foods (plant foods, such as
tinned peas) will help in mild cases. Goldfish, particularly fancy
goldfish, are most prone to swim bladder problems of this sort. |
|
18a |
Small worm-like
organisms stuck to the surface of the fish. |
Flukes
and fish lice
are external parasites that commonly infest the skin and gills.
Commercial treatments exist for external flukes and lice, but saltwater
baths can also work very effectively. In severe cases, veterinarian help
may be required. Relatively uncommon among commercially bred fish,
flukes and lice are more characteristic of certain wild-caught fish,
such as bichirs. |
|
18b |
No such organisms
visible. |
Go to 19a. |
|
19a |
Fish superficially
normal, but rapidly losing weight. |
Wasting diseases
can be caused by intestinal parasites, bacterial infections, or viruses
and tend to be difficult to identify without performing an examination
of the body cavity. Very commonly introduced with certain live foods,
particularly "feeder fish". The pathogens responsible are typically
highly contagious, especially when recently deceased fishes are eaten by
their tankmates but potentially through contact with faecal matter.
Therefore any fish exhibiting these symptoms should be quarantined and
either treated with anti-worm or antibacterial medications (probably
both) or else painlessly destroyed. |
|
19b |
Fish not losing
weight. |
Go to 20a. |
|
20a |
Fish has strange
deformities such as crooked spine or twisted fin not apparently
associated with physical damage such as fighting or fin-nipping. |
Congenital
deformities
are common in fish, and typically a few deformed fry will be found in
every batch. Obviously such fish should not be bred from, and if
suffering, painlessly destroyed. |
|
20b |
Fish not showing
these deformities. |
Write to Wet Web Media for help! |
A
note on antibiotics
Antibiotics are a powerful tool for
treating bacterial infections. However, they are only available without
prescription in the US; aquarists in Europe, Canada, and elsewhere will likely
have to obtain them by prescription from a veterinarian surgeon. In the UK, such
a prescription will cost around £20. Obviously this underlines the fact that
prevention is better than cure! It is also important to recognise that
antibiotics generally have no effect on diseases not caused by bacteria. Viral
infections in particular generally cannot be treated with antibiotics and all
you can do is provide optimal water conditions and a balanced diet and allow the
fish's own immune system to deal with the problem.
Reference
Chris Andrews, Neville Carrington, Adrian
Excell (1988), The Interpet
Manual of Fish Health.
Salamander Books, London & New York.
Neale's fish disease chart 5/23/07
Bob,
<Neale>
I'd been meaning to do this for a while. This article/chart is for the page
linked at below.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwdistrbshtart.htm
The idea is that since we get a lot of the same queries again and again,
perhaps you can use this article to help people ID the diseases their
freshwater fish are suffering from. I hope it's useful. It's attached as RTF
and HTML, at least one of which should work for you, I hope!
Cheers, Neale
<Outstanding! (as always)... Might I ask if you are the same Neale Monks who
penned a piece re Mollienesia in captivity that ran in PFK recently? If so,
would you sell the use of this work on WWM as well as this chart and spiffy
dichotomous key to/for our use... for the grand sum of two hundred U.S.
dollars (spend them while they're worth something... don't cry for me
Argentina!)? BobF>
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