Question about nasty Chinese Algae Eaters!   8/11/08 Hi there, <Megan,> I recently bought a 28 gallon tank from my neighbour. Excited to get started, I went and bought myself six guppies (who now have babies! Woohoo!), six neon tetras, two small gouramis, <Colisa lalia by any chance? Do read my writings on this species elsewhere on WWM -- extremely poor quality stock in the trade, and serious problems with viral diseases mean that you must choose your specimens with the utmost care.> and four barbs. <And what, pray tell, are these Barbs? Do be aware that many barbs (e.g., Tiger Barbs) are notorious fin nippers when kept in too small a group (realistically less than a dozen) and your Fancy Guppies will be mincemeat once they get started.> I have live plants in my tank and I bought one algae eater to begin with. <If this is Gyrinocheilus aymonieri, this is too large for your tank (up to 35 cm/14") and extremely aggressive.> After a couple days I thought my algae eater was looking a little lonely. <They don't get lonely. They are territorial. Please be extremely careful about transposing human feelings onto animals. This path leads to all kinds of problems! Instead, research the animal and then act accordingly. Trying to cater to an animals social needs is absolutely the right thing to do. But those needs are not necessarily the same as ours. In fact they very rarely are.> I don't know much about algae eaters but I thought, what the heck? I went to the pet store and got three more of what I thought were the same type. A couple days later, my neighbour came over to visit and made a terrible discovery - I'd purchased three Chinese algae eaters. <Oh dear, yes, this is Gyrinocheilus aymonieri, possibly the single worst commonly traded fish in the hobby.> Now, one of them is growing rapidly and becoming very aggressive. The other two are growing, but not as fast. My neighbour seems to think the fourth algae eater (my original one) is of the same family, but we can't find it in books anywhere. It's almost albino looking - pale in colour and other than that, very similar looking to a Chinese algae eater. <Likely the "Golden" morph. If it has the same shape and look, but is just sort of yellowy-pink, that's the beast. Gyrinocheilus aymonieri also have very distinctive gill covers, with small holes at the top that allow the fish to breath in and out through the gills. As you probably know, most other fish breath in through the mouth, and out through the gills.> The pale algae eater isn't growing nearly as fast, however. I don't know what to do with them, so I want to know if you have any suggestions. I've tried just giving them to people, but no one seems to want them, and I can understand why! <Yep.> I can't bring myself to kill them unless it's completely pain free, and I've noticed on your website there are a couple different ways of doing so. <If in doubt, consult a vet. With large fish, the simple methods recommended for use with Neons and the like may be inappropriate. Large fish will need to be sedated first, then destroyed.> But before I take that route, I want to know if there is anything else I can do, and if you can give me any more information on them. <These are actually acceptable fish in certain situations, e.g., big cichlid tanks. They really need systems 750 litres/200 gallons upwards, where they are dynamic and attractive fish. So if you've called the local tropical fish shops and they won't take them, try joining some tropical fish forums and bulletin boards, and advertising on their "trade/swap/freebie" sections.> I really don't want them hurting my fish, especially my beautiful little gouramis who are peaceful. <Indeed.> Any help would be appreciated! Thanks Megan <Cheers, Neale.> Re: Question about nasty Chinese Algae Eaters!   8/11/08 Hello again! <Hail and well met.> Okay, so instead of trying to explain visually what everything looked like for proper identification, I decided to send pictures... probably would have been a smart move in the first place eh? <Right, the golden barb is Puntius sachsii, a species that gets to about 8 cm/3" in length. Like all barbs its sociable, so the more you have, the less likely it is to cause problems. But this isn't a particularly nippy species and with luck you should be okay. The algae eater and the golden algae eater are both Gyrinocheilus aymonieri, the big, nasty bruiser I was talking about last time around. The gouramis are Colisa lalia, in my opinion and utter waste of money. You appear to have two males, one of the "Red" variety and one of "Powder Blue" variety. Same species, same problems. I'm not saying they're bound to die after a short miserable life, but a lot of the do. Do a Google search for 'Dwarf Gourami Iridovirus' to learn more.> Thanks for the information on my algae eaters. I hate it that pet stores employ people with little or no knowledge about the species they're giving you. I asked specifically for two small, calm algae eaters. I assumed even though I didn't know much about them, the people they had working there probably would. I recall the girl giving me a confused face and then saying "Oh, yeah, these are what you want then!" <Agreed. Problem is that people often buy fish without researching them, going by price/colour first, and provided there's a market, retailers will stock them.> Note to self: Just because the fish is small at the time it's bought, doesn't mean it can't grow to over a foot long. And, also, those Chinese algae eaters don't look any different then an ugly old trout when they grow up. <They're not ugly fish when they're grown up. They're rather handsomely marked. But they certainly aren't community tank fish.> I forgot to mention that I only asked for two and received a little freebie in my bag - bringing me to three plus one mystery fish. <The photo labeled "Mystery Guy" is a golden morph of Gyrinocheilus aymonieri. The same species as the fish labeled "Evil". Notice how I use Latin names? Avoids all complications because this way everyone knows precisely what fish is being discussed. While you might think using Latin names is awkward, it actually dramatically simplifies fish shop shopping.> Argh. <Quite.> Anyways, I am going to call the pet store today and see if they will take them off my hands. And your idea about the forums was a great one! So I guess my next question would be what can I get to replace them that's going to be calm and friendly and preferably not cost me my next month's rent? <If you want small algae eaters, then the safest bets are Nerite snails (harmless, don't breed, don't damage plants); Cherry Shrimps (colourful, small, but will be killed by fish medications, as will snails by the way); and Bristlenose Cats (Ancistrus spp.).> I have attached a couple pictures. One of my gouramis, my barbs and my mystery algae eater. Thanks for your advice, it's all really useful! <Cool.> (PS - I am a sucker for placing human attributes on animals - I'm constantly thinking "oh, he looks so lonely!", when in fact the fish would rather be alone and I just assume it needs "friends".) <Note I'm not saying animals don't have feelings or don't like people. Animals surely do have feelings, just not the same ones as ours. Likewise many animals enjoy human company. Goldfish for example positively thrive when looked after well and attentively, as do most cichlids and pufferfish. Cheers, Neale.>

Fish Compatibility... FW   8/5/08
Hello! Love the site, tons of information! After reading over everything, I still have a couple of questions if you'd be so kind as to give me some advice.
I have a 55-gallon, medium-planted with live plants, lots of caves and dark spots. I have one Whisper Powerfilter60 and an air stone, the temperature stays around 78-80 at all times, and it's been up and running for about a month. I currently have only a 6" Senegal Bichir, a 4" Raphael Striped Catfish, a 4" Blue Crayfish, and several mystery snails of varying sizes.
Questions:
1. Should I leave the aquarium light on all day for the plants, or can they get by on filtered window sunlight?
<Can work with sunlight, but don't bank on it. To get enough sunlight the tank needs to be right by the glass, and that means water temperature will go up dramatically. Fine in some instances, but not others. Moreover, the plants will tend to grow out of the tank, and the leaves underwater will basically die off. This is what most aquarium plants would do in the wild for at least part of the year. Again, fine if that's the sort of tank you're after (I have one just like this on an east-facing windowsill) but not at all viable for the average community tank.>
I don't want to promote algae growth but I want healthy plants.
<Sunlight = lots of algae. Again, great if you're after that... the livebearers in my windowsill love it. But not to everyone's taste.>
I have a bottle of Flourish that I put a capful of into the tank a couple of times a month...but I recently added more plants (replaced all plastic with live) and I don't want them to die on me so I'd like to make sure everything is set up right for them. I only have about 1" of gravel on the bottom, and they are all weighted down well.
<Need more substrate than this. If you're even half interested in growing aquarium plants you have to accept their needs. Would garden plants grow in an inch of plain driveway gravel? Of course not. Nor do aquarium plants. They need at least 5 cm of substrate, and that should be a mix of something nutritious (I use aquatic soil, but there are lots of options) with maybe sand topped off with fine gravel for looks.>
Does the Flourish add the nutrients the plants need, or will they also need supplements of iron or potassium?
<No idea about this brand; not one I use or see here in England. Read the label/instructions; consult manufacturers web site.>
2. I want to get more fish for the mid-top level of my tank, some active and interesting critters. The bichir I have leaves everyone alone and the crayfish has bursts of busy scavenging followed by long periods in his cave that he defends readily against the curious bichir.
<Don't bank on this peace holding forever. Crayfish are no more friendly towards fish than wolves are to buffalo. Sooner or later...>
The catfish I've had for years and it doesn't grow and doesn't appear to eat, but it's still alive.
<The fate of most catfish unfortunately. What he wants is essentially a mixed diet containing catfish pellets, algae wafers, frozen bloodworms, chopped seafood, and maybe even a few small snails.>
I saw on your site that they are social and are unhappy alone, but I
cannot for the life of me find another in my area or online so it's doomed to solitude at this point (sadly). It stays in it's chosen cave all the time as far as I can tell, but somehow it's still alive! What would be compatible with these guys?
<I'd honestly wait until another Platydoras costatus comes along. They are very commonly traded, but as with most South American wild-caught fish they're seasonal, and appear round about September. Any half decent aquarium shop can place an order for you.>
I would like a Black Ghostfish, some Gouramis (how many, sizes, colors, etc?), and maybe something else but I'd like your advice on that.
<Your tank is too small for Apteronotus albifrons, and that's also a difficult fish to maintain and feed -- the vast majority die swiftly in captivity. As for Gouramis, I'm fond of Trichogaster leeri, Trichogaster microlepis, Colisa labiosus, and Colisa fasciata as all be hardy, non-aggressive and easy to keep, which is more than can be said for most of the other species offered.>
3. Do I need more or better filtration for my tank? The Whisper60 seems to work fine, but I haven't had the tank long enough to know for sure and I'd like to avoid fish loss or excessive algae growth or murky water (obviously).
<My recommendation for a standard community tank is at least 4 times the volume of the tank in turnover per hour, and ideally 6 times. So check the "gallons per hour" rating on your filter and compare with your tank.>
4. Any other suggestions about any aspect of my tank would be greatly appreciated!!! Thank you!!!!
<Suspect you will need to re-jig the substrate and almost certain double the lighting to get decent plant growth (you need at least 2 watts per gallon lighting).>
Lyssa
<Hope this helps. Cheers, Neale.>

How should I sort my fish? - 06/29/08
I have recently inherited 2 - 10 gal. aquariums and some fish, but I am a novice. There are 7 guppies, 3 black tetras, 5 serpae tetras, 2 hatchet fish and 2 apple snails in one tank, and a Pleco, 2 dwarf Gouramis, 3 platies, 2 swords, 3 Rasboras, and 4 mollies in the other. Is this the best way to group them? Should I get certain species of fish to help keep the tank clean? If so, what kind?
Thank you for your time,
Laura
<Hello Laura. Probably the single best thing you could do is buy/borrow an aquarium book. All the species you're keeping are "common" species, but they each have very specific needs/characters. Black Tetras (which I assume are Gymnocorymbus ternetzi) and Serpae Tetras (Hyphessobrycon eques) are both "fin nippers", meaning they tend to attack slow moving fish or fish with long fish. Mixing them with Guppies for example, or Apple Snails, would be a very dangerous idea! I'd keep those two species alone in their own tank, or possibly with the Plec, assuming it is a small species. An adult Plec of the common species (Pterygoplichthys multiradiatus) gets to 45 cm/18" in length, and won't even FIT in a 10 gallon tank, let alone be able to live in one! It will need, minimum, a 200 litre/55 gallon system. In fact all your fish would do better in a 75 litre/20 gallon tank or bigger. Personally, if this was me, and I have a couple of 10-gallon tanks to populate, I wouldn't keep ANY of the species you've got, except maybe the Apple Snails. The Swordtails need a big, long tank because they are semi-aggressive, open water fish that need swimming space. Mollies are similar, but potentially get even bigger (some species to 15 cm/6"!) and need very hard, very basic water of perfect water quality as well. I'd argue -- strongly -- they really need to be kept in brackish water, not a freshwater tank. Platies are a bit less demanding than Swordtails, but all the livebearers (Swordtails, Platies, Guppies, and Mollies) need hard, basic water. By contrast, your Rasboras and Hatchetfish will need soft/acid water in the long term. While this is also the ideal for Serpae and Black tetras, those two species are so nasty I wouldn't mix them with anything as gentle as Rasboras or Hatchets. Dwarf Gouramis are frankly hopeless fish that I don't waste my time on. But you have them now, and presumably they don't have Dwarf Gourami Iridovirus or they wouldn't have lasted this long! Anyway, healthy specimens (which are damned rare!) are nice fish, but a bit slow and stupid, and easily nipped by Tetras, so don't mix them with anything nippy. Fancy Guppies are even more slow and even more stupid, and also get nipped. Fancy Guppies are best kept in their own quarters. Now, as for "cleaner fish" -- that's you, my friend. No fish, REPEAT, NO FISH, keeps your tank clean. All of them make the tank dirtier. Statements to the contrary are only EVER made by retailers trying to SELL you a catfish or loach. Filtration and water changes (and perhaps the odd wipe of the glass and stir of the gravel) is the way to clean a tank. Do start at WWM by going to these two sections, reading through the first boxes on each one for info aimed at beginners:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwsetupindex.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwlivestkindex.htm
I hope this helps. Cheers, Neale.>

FW fish Compatibility  6/11/08
Hello. I just purchased a 156g tank for my fishes; 2 2-spot Gouramis, 2 angel pictus catfishes and 2 blood parrot fishes and I would like to know what other fishes I could put with them. Thanks a bunch! Jo Anne
<The list is long indeed... of major groups of fishes that are relatively available, get along with what you currently have, span the range of water quality... FW Angels, other medium sized Gouramis, many Rainbowfishes, some small to med. characoids, medium sized barbs, Danios, Rasboras... many other useful catfishes... Best to go through fish books, websites of size, making a prospective "want list"... seek further input to hone this down, visiting stores... Bob Fenner>

29 Gallon Stocking, FW, comm.  5/13/08
Ok I will be upgrading a 10 gallon tank in a few days to a 29 gallon.
<Ah! Some upgrade!>
I will be using some of the water and filter pad from the 10 gallon to hurry along the 29 gallon cycle.
<Good>
Anyway, currently in the 10 gallon there are 2 dwarf gouramis (paired), 2 male guppies, and 5 female platies
What else would go great with these fish in a 29 gallon aquarium?
<Perhaps some Corydoras sp. catfish... some small danios, rasboras...>
I do not want anymore platies separated the males from the females they breed way too quickly lol. And I do not want any Neon Tetras (I already have a 45 gallon tank devoted to those)
<Many choices are available... I'd be scanning books, the Net, your fish stores for ideas, possibilities... Bob Fenner>

Tank Troubles, Mixed tropical and Goldfish sys.  4/9/08
I am an experienced saltwater fishkeeper and I have set up a freshwater tank at my place of employment. It is a 55 Gallon with an oversized BioWheel filter and carbon media, it is only about two months old. I sped the cycling process along with "used gravel and filter media" from my LFS.
<Very good.>
The water tests at 0ppm for ammonia, nitrite, chlorine, about 15ppm for nitrates. I have an African Clawed Frog that I hand feed ReptoMin pellets and a dojo loach that eats a sinking shrimp pellet everyday.
<Fine, but do vary the diet and use (wet) frozen foods like bloodworms as well, or even live foods or chopped seafood. Plain dried food seems to cause problems with constipation, and in any case most animals get bored with it.>
Finally I have 3 fantail goldfish approx 3" each, I feed fresh blanched spinach and zucchini as well as sinking goldfish pellets every other day. I feed sparingly, I am a big fan of fit fish.
<Great!>
Anyway the crux of my issue, I have had a few fish deaths which I find strange. I had one goldfish pass, he grew weak and unresponsive until his death. My boss added two guppies and three platies ( against my better advice) and one of the guppies and two of the platies have passed away. They acclimate fine they seem healthy and active, and eating. Then I will find them dead within the next couple of days.
<When a random selection of fish die within a short period, it's almost always an environmental issue. So check temperature, pH, nitrite at once. Fish have varying demands in terms of temperature, and outside their preferred range quickly develop immune system, dietary problems. The pH will give you a quick handle on whether water chemistry is stable, and the nitrite will tell you about the filtration system.>
No apparent disease is at work, there is no outward sign of it anyway, the goldfish and the guppy and platies all appear healthy. Is there some water parameter that I am not taking into account?
<Not sure. Which parameters have you considered thus far?>
I realize that guppies and platies are tropical fish but can't they also acclimate to subtropical temperatures?
<Not as such, no. While it is true that one Platy species, the Variatus Platy fish Xiphophorus variatus is a subtropical fish, the fancy Platies sold are hybrids that require completely tropical conditions. Guppies are tropical fish, period.>
The temperature of the tank is a steady 67 degrees F.
<Too low.>
Please let me know if there is something I am missing or if a certain number of fish deaths is normal...I haven't lost any of my SW fish in many months, and years. So I am a bit perplexed. Thanks so much in advance.
<Cheers, Neale.>

Stocking & quarantine 03/26/2008
Hi there,
I do have a few questions and hoping you have the answers. I have a 55 gal. tank with an AquaClear "70" filter system. Right now I have 15 fish
5 zebra Danios
1 gold Gourami
3 swordtails (1 male -2 female)
6 Australian rainbows (3 male -3 female)
I want to add more fish and wonder if adding 3 more female swords and 3 more female rainbows would be all right for now. I want more color in my tank and thinking of a different species of rainbows. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
<With schooling fish, adding more of the same species INVARIABLY improves the aesthetics. A common mistake beginners make is to take a couple of these, a couple of those, and a couple of the others. Different shapes and different colours. Throw them into the tank. Result: a jumble. None of the fish behave properly. They don't school together. So instead of a synchronized group of ten Neons playing follow the leader (when they look fab) you get five Neons hanging about all over the place looking nervous. So, before adding NEW species, think about adding MORE of the same. Adding more Danios should be a no-brainer. A dozen would have hardly any effect on the capacity of your tank, while the resulting social cohesion will dramatically increase their value in terms of entertainment. Adding more Swordtails would be another good move because the more specimens, the less aggressive the males will become.>
My next question concerns the quarantining of fish. I guess I've been very lucky in that I've never done this before but the more I read the more I think I should be doing this especially if I get a sick fish and not know it until it's too late.
<Quarantining is indeed valuable.>
I am a bit confused as to the set-up: bare bottom, diffused lighting, heater, thermometer and sponge filtering. It's the sponge filtering I'm not sure of. How do I get this sponge seeded and
what kind of sponge is it? What kind of filtering is needed and does the sponge filter go into this system? Where and what is the sump on my AquaClear filter?
<You basically set up a smaller version of your regular freshwater tank. Don't fuss about lights, the sort of filter, decorations, etc. I'd recommend grabbing some filter media from your existing tank and stuffing that into the air-powered box filter or small internal electric filter of your choice. Instant cycling! If the tank needs to be empty for more than a few days, don't forget to add some "food" for the bacteria in the form of a pinch of flake every 2-3 days.>
One other thing-what does dip/bath mean?
<Not particularly important for freshwater, so don't worry about it.>
Thank you very much for any assistance you can give me.
<Cheers, Neale.>

Population Questions; FW; Stocking Issues (Platies and Danios)   3/22/08
I currently have 11 Mickey mouse platies, two peppered Corys, and one zebra Danio living in my 20 gallon tank. I was wondering if that was too many fish.
<<Well it depends on the dimensions of said twenty gallon (is this a long variety or the standard or even worse the “tall” variation?) Also what type of filtration are you using, how many times per hour is the volume of the tank turned over? Last what is your maintenance (water change regime) and what are your chemical parameters? I would say based on the number of platies alone you are overstocked, Poeciliid Fishes (livebearers) are relatively messy (waste production) fish and when you consider the adult size of the platies and their eager mating behaviors, this a temporary arrangement at best. As far as the Corys, please ensure that they are receiving the proper nutrition and not getting lost in the sea of platies.>>
Also, how important is it for Danios to live in schools?
<<Here is a quote from one of Bob’s articles; - “1) Number: Remember that most of these fishes are schooling species; they only feel at ease and act naturally when housed in a large enough system in groups. Three individuals is an absolute minimum, with larger, odd numbers being better.” Having said or quoted that, you are in no position to add fish to your system at the moment.>>
I've read that they should be in groups of three or more, but since I don't have a quarantine tank and am worried about population, I haven't added any more.
<<Yes for the time being, I would begin thinning out the platy population, as well as implementing some aggressive water changing to keep the dissolved organics in check for the time being.>>
Thanks, Lori
<<Welcome, - Adam J.>>

Your suggestion... Reading, re FW fish sel.  – 03/20/08
We currently have a 20 gallon tank that has the following fish...
2 Neon Tetras
2 Bloodfin Tetras
<Small tetras are better off in larger numbered shoals>
1 Male Guppy
3 Female Guppies
1 Bala Shark
<Needs much more room>
1 Redtail Shark
<Too often becomes problematical behaviorally... See WWM re this minnow sharks...>
1 Cory Cat
1 Rasbora
<Another schooling species...>
1 Female Lyretail Molly (pregnant)
1 Male Lyretail Molly
1 Female Red Wag Platy
1 Male Red Wag Platy
We bought a 10 gallon tank & it is currently cycling. When the time comes, which fish would you suggest that we move to the 10 gallon tank.
Thank you for your help.
Melissa
<Read re the fish species listed above period... I'd be moving the softer/acidic, more tropical species OR the harder/alkaline cooler water ones... and trading in the sharks... READ, don't write. Bob Fenner>

Upgrading Tank/Adding more schooling/shoaling fish, FW  – 03/18/08
Hello WetWebMedia Team!
I've been reading your site off-and-on for a few years now, but recently have been reading the FAQs daily (as well as other documents on your site) in preparation. I have been recently upgrading my aquascape as my old 20-gal tank sprung a small leak - it lasted 20 years and thankfully wasn't seriously harmful, but enough to warrant upgrading. Now I've got a 47-gallon freshwater "column" tank that I've recently set up with some of the water and filter from the previous tank, as well a number of new plants (I've been aiming for a more natural tank this time around, and it's looking gorgeous so far, the plants are already sprouting new leaves). I recently moved the entire fish community to my new tank and I'm going to wait until things settle down before adding more fish (at least another month or so, I'm keeping an eye on all the chemical levels which are within safe ranges and no casualties so far, fingers crossed), but I wanted to ask you for some advice. Of the fish I have in my tank, which ones would you recommend that I add more of so that they are less-stressed? I am aware that I have a number of grouping fish, and would just like to hear your thoughts.
3 Golden Barbs
<Too few, likely to become nippy or aggressive.>
2 Pineapple Swordtails (They were labeled Platys in the store but I can't find "pineapple platy" online, they look like swordtails)
<Regardless, the males are very aggressive, so if you want zero hassle always keep one male to at least two females. I'd recommend only a single male per aquarium. People ignore this advice all the time, but then e-mail us with stories of one male Platy/Guppy/Swordtail/Molly beating seven bells out of the other males in the tank. Your move.>
2 Zebra Danios (probably my oldest, these guys are hardy!)
<Need 4 more, at least.>
3 Galaxy Danios
<Groups of 6; in any case these need subtropical conditions, so aren't compatible with fish that need warmer than 24 C, for example Cardinals. Also need hard, alkaline water, so you can't keep them with Cardinal tetras, for example, which have a short lifespan in hard water.>
4 Cardinal Tetras
<Need to be kept in big groups to stop being shy and actually develop full colours; I'd recommend at least a dozen.>
1 Fancy Guppy (Male, I believe)
<Incompatible with Cardinals; totally different water chemistry and also prone to nipping.>
4 Lyretail Guppies
<Ditto.>
3 Ghost Shrimp
<Fine.>
1 Green Rocket Shrimp
<Fine.>
1 Zebra Nerite Snail
<Fine.>
I guess the other question is this - when I do get more fish of the same species to fill-out the schools/shoals, will introducing the same fish to the tank allow them to school together, or will they school in separate "packs"?
<Will coalesce into single schools.>
Or would it be recommended to add similar, but not identical, livestock (such as Cherry Barbs, or Cherry Shrimp)?
<nope.>
Thank you very much for your time!
<Not a problem. For what it's worth, I'd probably sit down and think about which way you want to develop this tank. You have a bunch of species with different water chemistry/temperature requirements, and so at least some of these fish not be at their best. Decide what you want to concentrate on, and optimise the conditions. A subtropical/cool-tropical tank around 22-24C would be great for Danios and shrimps, and you could easily add barbs and loaches, and then stabilise the water chemistry around the neutral to slightly alkaline level.>
Sincerely,
Jason
<Cheers, Neale.>

Overwhelmed by choices/numbers, Re: FW lvstk. sel.   3/6/08
Hi Crew, I have been doing much research for my new 20 gallon tank and I have picked some fish I think will do well together some of which Neale had suggested). I would just like to get some confirmation on compatibility and numbers, if that is ok. I have a twenty gallon tall tank I am in the process of cycling, so I really am still in the research stage. It has aquarium gravel in the bottom along with a waterfall ornament with hidey hole in it and also a hollow log with several holes in it for hiding in. I also have a small terra cotta pot in it on its side. There are various plastic and silk plants roughly 8) Still plenty of swimming room in the center. It has a Top Fin power filter of which I am not too sure I like. No Bio wheel or anything, just a cartridge.
Will this filter suffice?
<Mmm, you may want to add something more here... perhaps an inside power filter... for redundancy, when you clean one, don't do the other... to retain biological conversion capacity>
I would like to put in 2 Dwarf or Blue Gourami's
<Mmm, not the Dwarfs... see WWM re>
3 Platies and 4 leopard Cory cats (Corydoras julii). I think according to the 1 inch rule this would about do it. I have read these fish will be compatible together, but honestly everything you read has so many suggestion of "this OR that" with several different groupings it is very overwhelming. I would just appreciate another opinion on my proposed tank stock and I certainly do not want to overstock. Thanks so much ahead of time, I appreciate all of the good information on your site and could read for hours-Aaahh if only life would let me. I have not been able as of yet to find here or pretty much anywhere else "lists" of suggested beginner tanks, to include breed number and introduction order. Something like this would be fabulous for beginners to choose a grouping from to start them in the hobby. As we learn and grow we could branch out from there. If you do know of any kind of resource such as this could you please let me know? I do apologize if I have over looked it on your own website-I have used the search feature extensively to no avail:-(
Regards!
Debbie
<The Trichogaster/Blue Gouramis and Corydoras will do very well here, together... and you might want to add something more for color, excitement... Perhaps some Xiphophorus helleri/Swords... there is room, compatibility behavior and water-quality wise... Bob Fenner>

Oddball tankmates... GSP, brackish, Danios... What?    2/27/08
Hello,
I have a green puffer, Sailfin molly, and a small Danio in a 7 gallon bowed out tank.
<Please tell me this is a joke. PLEASE!>
The green puffer is still a baby and will be moved to a larger tank when he starts to get bigger (about a year or so from what I've heard).
<Not just a larger tank (at least 120 l/30 gal) but also a brackish water one maintained around SG 1.010.>
The Danio kept harassing the puffer until I decided to section him off for about a week.
<Doesn't work this way. Danios aren't smart enough to learn you're cross with them. All the Danio knows is that he is a schooling fish that spends his life scrabbling with his school-mates to establish a position in the pecking order. Kept by himself he is bored out of his mind because all his natural behaviours are being frustrated. This is not on the table for discussion: Danios are schooling fish that need to be kept in groups of at least 6 specimens and in tanks at least 60 cm/2' long so they have room for swimming. Anything else is animal cruelty, willful or otherwise.>
When I released him, he seemed to want to school with the puffer instead. He doesn't bother the molly, and if he does, the molly can handle it.
<Again, Mollies are not suitable for a 7 gallon tank. Even a tank three times that size would be borderline.>
I dumped some freshwater salt into the tank to get rid of the ich because the general cure did very little.
<"Dumping" salt isn't the way forward here. Have you asked why the fish are getting Ick?>
I also have been treating with Melafix to help with the ich repair the puffer's fin damage from when I first bought him at Wal-Mart.
<Long term, outside of brackish water, this pufferfish will not stay healthy.>
Is it odd that the Danio wants to school with the puffer?
<Absolutely typical when Danios are kept incorrectly.>
Also, I heard that mollies can handle marine like conditions. So when I start to increase the salinity, will the molly be ok?
<Both the Molly and the Pufferfish will do perfectly well in brackish or even marine conditions. I'd aim for SG 1.005 while they are young, and once the Puffer is upwards of 8-10 cm, gradually raise the specific gravity over the next few weeks to SG 1.010. Obviously the Danio cannot be kept in such conditions.>
It appears that my tank is a bit small considering the fish I have,
<Never a truer word spoken!>
until I get a bigger tank, if the water parameters don't stay within a healthy range, can I add more oxygen and a stronger filter, on top of making more water changes until I can get a new tank?
<Good money after bad. There is no way you can redeem this aquarium, it is simply too small.>
(I already have a bubble stone and a pretty powerful filter meant for a 5 to 10 gallon tank).
<Neither here nor there.>
The puffer starting swimming around frantically and swimming near the surface when I fed him some flakes this morning.
<Flakes are not the right food for this fish. Long term you will cause constipation and overgrown teeth. Lots of articles here at WWM about puffers: read them!>
I tried burping him, but no air came out (he bit me the first time though), he seems to have recovered, but I'm not sure what made him do that in the first place.
<Does happen. Try to avoid though, because sometimes puffers swallow air, cannot expel it, and eventually float so long their gills dry out and the fish dies.>
I found something that works if you don't have a net. Small bubble wrap can be used to "section off" the tank to watch a fish more closely. I think all of the reflections in it chill out the fish.
<Fish don't "chill". They are either happy or terrified. Not much in between. A fish confronted by thousands of reflections of itself is unlikely to be happy.>
It worked wonders when I rubbed the stomach of the puffer, he didn't bite this time.
<Very good. Anyway, I'm sure you are very fond of these fish and I can sense you want to do the best for them, which is great. But right now you are not even close to having a balanced, viable aquarium. Green Spotted Puffers are not reliable community fish, and often end up being kept alone. The Molly is potentially viable in a community with the Danio, though I usually recommend Mollies be kept in slight salty water, and ideally a brackish water aquarium. Danios must be kept in tanks that are long (I'd honestly recommend a 20 gallon tank) and in groups of 6 or more. Do sit down and read about these fish, and then plan your fishkeeping accordingly. Cheers, Neale.>

Old Tank, FW stkg.   -02/20/08
Good afternoon to whoever answers. And all of you actually.
I have a ten gallon tank that has been stored. I would like to bring it into use again and have two questions.
How do I do the recycling? I kept the old filter material and the water filter but have washed the stones and tank ( no bleach). Do I start it like a new tank or would it be ok to use the old filter material?
<You can certainly deep clean sponge and ceramic media (hot water, lots of squeezing and rinsing!). There's not much point re-using chemical media (carbon, zeolite) or filter floss.>
I would like to have more than one fish (greedy) and would like to know if there is such a fish for a ten gallon tank. Or should I just make a Betta very happy?
<Either. In the February issue of TFH I have a WHOLE article about stocking 10 gallon tanks, so try and grab a copy of that if you can. It's not in shops anymore, but you might find your local public library or fish club has a copy. Failing that, let me give you some general advice: almost all the standard community tropicals need more than 10 gallons to do well. What you want are small (ideally 2.5 cm/1" or less) fish that are neither very active nor very territorial. Ideal choices include Neons, dwarf mosquitofish, pygmy Corydoras, Kuhli loaches, Cherry shrimps, and Nerite snails. Most everything else, including guppies, barbs, cichlids, etc. are all too active and/or aggressive for such a small tank.>
Thanks so much. Linda
<Hope this helps, Neale.>

New Freshwater Tank, lvstk. sel.    2/19/08
Greetings, Crew,
I have a 180 (acrylic) tank with overflows and sump, that I have set up as a FW tank. It has just finished cycling, and has a couple of 10-year-old Plecos and 4 small (5 year-old) clown loaches. I would like some mid and upper tank fish. Especially, I would like fish that wouldn't nip at or pester the loaches.
<Really not too difficult. There are a few nippy fish to avoid: Gymnocorymbus ternetzi, Hyphessobrycon serpae and its relatives, Puntius tetrazona, to name the most egregious fin-nippers. But most Danios, tetras, barbs, Rasboras, Rainbowfish would all work well.>
I read about giant Danios and rainbow fish on your site; both sound fine.
<Indeed. Giant Danios (Devario aequipinnatus) are hyperactive and in a large group (say, 10 or more) put on a superb show. They are predators though, so be careful if you decide to add anything smaller than they are later on. Giant Danios also prefer slightly cool conditions: 22-24C ideally, and no more than 26C, and even then with strong water currents to ensure good circulation of oxygen. Kept too warm they simply "burn out". Rainbowfish are excellent all-around fish for medium to large sized community tanks. They will do well even in quite warm water up to about 27 or 28C, though closer to 25C suits the Australian species best, while the New Guinean species might do well a little warmer. Again, they look their best in largish groups, when the males will display to one another. An important tip: make sure you get equal numbers of males and females -- though females are sometimes less colourful in some species, the males won't get their best colours without them. Also, do remember Australian Rainbowfish are often drab when young, and only get their best colours when a year or two old. Most species live quite a long time, 5+ years, so can be excellent value. I happen to like the warm water species Melanotaenia boesemanni from New Guinea.>
Would a school of rainbow fish be OK with the loaches?
<Yes.>
Could I mix the Danios and rainbow fish?
<Yes, if each was in a decent sized group and the Rainbows had some shady areas to hide in: Giant Danios can be boisterous.>
Any other suggestions for fish that might complement what I already have/am planning for?
<In really big tanks, you have the option of keeping a really big school of fish, and I suspect you'll find that the best way to create a visually stunning view. Twenty mature Melanotaenia boesemanni would be an unbelievable sight. So do think carefully about the balance between lots of different species versus larger numbers of just one or two.>
Thanks for your help and for a great resource.
Water here is moderately hard. I keep tank at about 80F.
<Water would suit either fish, but perhaps slightly too warm for Giant Danios.>
tom
<Cheers, Neale.>

Tank Diversity... I'll say! And a partridge in a pear tree?! 2/18/08
Hello and thanks in advance.
<Hail.>
I've jumped in feet first here and I feel slightly overwhelmed. I am trying to be as conscientious as possible and want to offer the best environment possible for the animals I've chosen to support.
<For the love of God, please tell me this is research *prior* to purchase. Obviously these animals won't get along. One is big and aggressive, one is soft and easily damaged, and the other is a land animal that drowns when it falls into deep water. No chance whatsoever of these animals coexisting in an vivarium.>
I have a new 29 gallon tank with a very young Red-Eared slider turtle, a Fire Belly Toad, a Hermit Crab (species unknown to me).
<Oh dear.>
I have the tank divided into three distinct "zones"; I have a tall pumice stone which offers a place to climb and explore and where I deposit the food for all of the animals. In the middle I have a 2-2 1/2 inch deep area intended for swimming. And finally I have a raised, dry, sandy area for the turtle to bask and for the crab to
burrow/bask. I've also planted a few small aquatic plants throughout each
"zone".
<Water area too shallow for the Terrapin, but fatally deep for the Hermit Crab.>
I have a new UVB light and a new infrared light which keeps the humidity and temperature within nominal limits and I regularly test in each of the three respective areas. I have a new 140 gph filter and a heater in the swimming area. I am using decomposed granite and aquarium gravel as substrate in the wet areas and washed play sand in the raised "beach" area.
<Hermit Crabs need moss or coir (Coconut fibre) to burrow into when resting. Sand doesn't hold moisture so well. In any case, the crab can't be kept in this enclosure.>
I have been reading as much as I can about the animals and believe that I have provided an ample environment for each of them. While I understand that a new environment and new "roommates" can be intimidating, how do I ensure a good quality of life for the inhabitants?
<By keeping each in a tailor-made environment specific to their needs. Firebelly Toads for example need relatively cool water less than 24C, but this is too cold for Terrapins. Conversely, while Terrapins appreciate a gravel substrate for resting on while basking, Toads can swallow gravel and die, and should NEVER be kept in enclosures with gravel. They need bare glass or pebbles in the water side of their tank, and damp moss 5 or 6 cm deep over the gravel on the land side of the system. Again, terrapins are hugely polluting animals that dump a lot of ammonia in the water; toads are highly sensitive to ammonia, developing the amphibian equivalent of Finrot, known as "Red Leg".>
I've never seen a tank divided like this and believe there is no reason why it can't be successful.
<Many, many reasons. Too numerous to list here, but even a quick read of the literature on each species should make these immediately obvious.>
Please give as much detailed information as you can afford.
~ Joel
<Separate these animals into their own systems, or else return two of them and specialise on just the one. There is no way these animals can be kept together. Cheers, Neale.>

Newbie to freshwater seeking some help. Stkg. mostly, maint.     2-9-08
Hello there,
<Hello, Merritt here today>
Thank you for such a helpful and precise website. I've spent a long time reading through some very useful and informative information that doesn't seem to be found elsewhere on the web.
I'm new to the world of freshwater fish keeping so please bear with me; I have three questions to put to your experts. After cycling our tank for three weeks (which was a painfully long wait when I was so keen to start buying fish!) we finally had the right conditions to stock our 54litre (10 UK gallon) freshwater tank. It's fitted with a filter, light, heater, and some plants. We've started off with 2 sunset platys and three male guppies. We hope to add a further selection of fish over the next few weeks as long as water conditions permit it. We've been testing the water daily with kits, (today's readings showed ammonia at 0, Nitrite at 0 and Nitrates at 20ppm) the fish seem happy and healthy and thin