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FAQs on Small System Freshwater Biotopes
Related Articles:
Biotopes -
Part 1 by Alesia Benedict,
Biotopic Set-Ups,
Aquascaping for Beginners; Twenty Tips for
Realistic Aquaria by Neale Monks, Aquascaping,
Adventures in Aquascaping by Timothy S. Gross
pH, alkalinity, acidity, Treating Tap Water,
Freshwater Aquarium Water Quality, Freshwater
Maintenance,
Related FAQs: FW
Biotopic Presentations,
Freshwater
Community,
African Biotopes, N. American Natives,
Amazon Biotopes,
Planted River Biotopes, & Treating Tap Water
for Aquarium Use, pH, Alkalinity, Acidity,
Freshwater Algae Control, Algae Control,
Foods, Feeding, Aquatic Nutrition, Disease, |
Most small systems of only a few gallons volume are
literal death traps... unable to keep stable, easily driven chemically and
physically by small changes outside... and very hard to maintain. |
Requesting small freshwater aquarium
stocking advice 8/13/08
Hi Crew! I'm always both excited and a little nervous to correspond with
whichever great crewmember I get a reply from.
<Oh?>
I only say "nervous" because I want to make sure I've done everything
involved with corresponding in the correct way and I'm never quite 100%
sure. You guys have always been great to me though and you're all "the tops"
in my book.
<Well, that's good.>
Without a doubt your site is the primary place I go to for advice or to
learn and like everyone else, I am always extremely grateful for all that
you do for us.
<Cool.>
Okay, just a little background into my situation. I have kept saltwater and
reef tanks for about 7 or 8 years and am pretty comfortable with that side
of aquatics. I do try to keep up with freshwater topics as well, both
through magazines and your website and such, but I do not feel comfortable
yet with livestock selection and some other aspects of freshwater aquarium
keeping. I do however, try to encourage most people I come in contact with
in my everyday life to keep some type of aquarium if they're interested and
have actually gotten a few people involved and have tried to help them. So,
my mom is a librarian at our local library and she has been lobbying for
them to have a tank for some time because she likes ours at home so much. It
almost happened once, but the funding dropped through at the last second. So
instead she gathered up some money in one of their employee funds and
suggested they start a small aquarium for their break room just for the
employees (hoping that if it was successful and people liked it, it might
encourage the high ups at the branch to think about a bigger one for the
public again). I ended up donating most of the equipment for it and setting
it up and it is now a modest 10 gallon planted freshwater aquarium that has
just finished cycling.
<Right; 10-gallon tanks are tricky to stock, so I'm glad you're doing your
research.>
My mom and I picked out, purchased and planted 2 Wisteria (Hygrophila
deformis) plants towards the back and 4 Corkscrew Vallisneria (Vallisneria
Americana) plants towards the front after much research and a lot of
crossing my fingers that I chose good, appropriate, easy to care for plants.
<Nothing wrong with these plants as such, but few 10 gallon tanks have the
light intensity these species appreciate, especially Hygrophila spp. I'd
honestly have gone with Anubias, Java fern, Java moss, and species of
Cryptocoryne. Vallisneria often adapts to low light quite well, but it isn't
a certainty. In any case: if these plants look like they aren't doing
anything, or just become brown or leggy, then try some of the species I
suggest above.>
I used a bag of Seachem Fluorite as my substrate and the smallest sized
AquaClear power filter as my filtration. I tested the parameters yesterday
and was happy to see NH3, NH4-0ppm, NO2-0ppm, NO3-7 to 8ppm, pH-7.2, KH-3 to
4 degrees dKH and GH-125.3 ppm KH/GH. I now feel confident that the tank has
cycled and am ready to start stocking with fish.
<How did you cycle this tank? Do understand that an empty tank will by its
very nature have zero ammonia and nitrite.>
I have been researching all kinds of fish and my mom and I went to our LFS 2
weeks ago so she could show me the sort of fish she liked and I could follow
up with research. Of course she wants “pretty, colorful” fish, but trusts me
when I tell her if something is inappropriate. Well, after all that, I'm
still not real sure. I know that we both like Cardinal Tetras and plan to
get 6-8 of them, but after reading some of the articles here, I think it is
best to wait a couple more weeks before getting them to ensure all chemical
values are stable and there are no other problems with other fish
introduced.
<Cardinals work well in 10 gallon tanks, being pretty inactive animals. But
yes, they are picky about water quality and wouldn't be my choice for the
first fish.>
I did not realize that they could be touchy in their hardiness, but know now
after reading your articles. I want that to be their main fish group in the
tank and add a few complimentary fish around that fish group.
<Would agree with you. I'd perhaps add a few benthic fish, e.g., small
Corydoras like Corydoras pygmaeus or Corydoras hastatus. At the top, you
could keep a male and two female Wrestling Halfbeaks, Dermogenys pusilla.
Tis would fill out all the levels of the tank quite nicely.>
The people at the library are now fending for fish in the tank, so I figured
I could get the complimentary fish now so they'd have something else to
enjoy until the Cardinals are ready to be introduced. However, I am stuck as
far as what else to add. I'm not real sure which fish would fit into the
category of being both complimentary and fitting into just a 10 gallon tank.
<Other suggestions would be Aspidoras pauciradiatus, small Whiptail catfish
like Rineloricaria parva, Kuhli loaches, Dwarf Livebearers (Heterandria
formosa). I happen to like Peacock Gudgeons, Tateurndina ocellicauda, for
small tanks though they are tricky to feed. You might also investigate
invertebrates. Cherry shrimps (Caridina heteropoda) are colourful and easy
to breed, and add lots of colour. There are plenty of other shrimps out
there including blue, orange, and even black/yellow "bumblebee shrimps"
species. Nerite snails are quirky and plant-friendly. If it gives you some
idea, take a look at one of my small freshwater tanks, here:
http://homepage.mac.com/nmonks/Projects/freshwaterreef.html
>
I realize the bottom of the tank should be occupied, but I'm not sure what
would be appropriate, enjoyable to non-aquarists, fitting to the tank
parameters and safe. I really didn't want to have to ask you guys and I've
spent a lot of time researching to try to avoid doing so, but I really am
stuck. Please feel free to be as short as you'd like with an answer as I
don't want to take up a lot of your time (even though the length of my email
kind of contradicts that). Thanks for any help you can lend and if there's
any further information that would be helpful for me to send you, please
just let me know. Thanks once again and I look forward to your response.
Peace and goodwill.-Nick
<Hope this helps, Neale.>
Re: Requesting
small freshwater aquarium stocking advice 8/14//08
Dear Neale:
Thanks so, so much for your response to my query...I really couldn't
have asked for a better, more in depth answer and I hope you
understand how much I appreciate that.
<Happy to help.>
I did want to let you know that I cycled kind of strangely and I'm
hoping it worked, but now that you've questioned it, I'm doing the
same. I'm so used to cycling with live rock, that I was a bit unsure
of what path to take even after reading a couple of the Wet Web
articles on cycling.
<I see...>
I did not have any freshwater filter material from an established
tank since all my tanks are saltwater. The tank is about 3-4 weeks
old and I started the cycle by having my mom put a very small amount
of flake food in the tank every day or two. I then figured that when
I added my plants (which I did about 2 weeks ago), that their
presence would finish the cycle (and so I had my mom cease adding
food)...not sure if I was correct in the way I approached that, but
I'll wait on your word to know for sure.
<Yes, this can work. Old school, but works. Provided you've seen the
ammonia and nitrite levels go up and then down, you're fine.>
Nitrates did register, so I thought that was a good sign of cycle
completion.
<Yes, assuming there is more nitrate in the water than there is in
the tap water; i.e., if you have 20 mg/l nitrate in the tap water
and 20 mg/l in your aquarium water... not much has happened!
Statement of the obvious I know, but thought I'd mention it.>
You've given me lots to research and look into and I thank you for
that and I certainly will research further. I did also plan on
adding some of the inverts you mentioned as well, but I thought the
addition of those would probably come after the fish. Is that
incorrect?
<A very good plan: Invertebrates are killed by copper/formalin-based
medications (i.e., most of them!) so you may as well deal with Ick
on your new fish first, and once everything is happy, add the
inverts.>
I was going to add a few clams as well, thinking they were like
Tridacnids and could lower nitrates, but I read an article in
Conscientious Aquarist that that was not so and that they even
require extra attention, so I'm second guessing that.
<Absolutely avoid clams. Total waste in freshwater tanks, and
virtually all die quickly. No food for them in the water by itself,
though you can off course feed them manually invert food (as used
for corals) using a pipette. If you were up for that, then go ahead.
Otherwise avoid. They have zero effect on nitrate. Plants use up
nitrate very effectively, but you just like a marine system, that's
light dependent. Denitrification (cf. live rock) isn't really done
in freshwater tanks, though equivalent devices to exist. Just not
worth worrying about because water changes are cheap and easy.>
Thanks again and I patiently and appreciatively await your response
on these last few issues. Thanks once more...I am indebted to
you.-Nick
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Requesting
small freshwater aquarium stocking advice
Thanks again, Neale...you're the best!
<One tries. Enjoy your aquarium, Neale.>
Re: Requesting
small freshwater aquarium stocking advice 8/14//08
Dear Neale. I hope I'm not being too much of a bother, but I had
to ask your opinion one last, quick time since you already know the
background of my situation. What do you think of Pencilfish as a
possibility of Cardinal Tetra complimentary fish to go along with
the others we've discussed in our correspondence?
<The larger Nannostomus will mix nicely with Paracheirodon
axelrodi.>
I know this is a family of fish rather than a specific species, but
do you have any feeling about the smaller types from that family in
relation to my below situation we discussed yesterday?
<Nannostomus spp. are all good community fish when kept with
similarly quiet tankmates. Nannostomus trifasciatus and Nannostomus
beckfordi are a couple of the best species for beginners; many of
the others are rather delicate and best avoided unless you're sure
you can meet their (quite demanding) requirements re: water
chemistry, diet.>
Thanks one last time, I again appreciate both your time and efforts
on my behalf-Nick
<Happy to help. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Requesting
small freshwater aquarium stocking advice 8/16/08
Hi Neale! I just wanted to touch base with you again to let you
know that I ended up purchasing 4 of the Pygmy Corys (Corydoras
pygmaeus) and 4 Gold Pencilfish (Nannostomus unifasciatus) for the
10 gallon tank.
<Both lovely fish, and quite robust when kept away from more
aggressive community species.>
I'm thinking now that I probably should've gotten 2 more of each,
but when I considered that I wanted 6-8 Cardinal Tetras as my
centerpiece fish group later on, I thought I may be overcrowding a
bit if I had done so...what do you think?
<I'd add two more of each. Assuming the filtration is good, the
additional biomass will make hardly any difference. Once plants get
established, they also help out significantly removing nitrate and
generally keeping the water sweet.>
Those two fish were the only ones the LFS had from the list of fish
we discussed, which was pretty disappointing, but I was happy to
find at least those 2 groups. I also got some frozen glassworms and
daphnia with the belief that that would be an appropriate food for
all of the inhabitants (I really wanted bloodworms, but they didn't
have any), including the eventual Cardinals.
<I've never had any fish that really much cared for either frozen
glassworms or frozen daphnia, even when they like the live versions
of both! But you own mileage may vary, as they say.>
I also got Ocean Nutrition's Community flake, but I'm thinking the
frozen foods should probably be the main source of nutrition (please
correct me if I'm mistaken).
<For Pencilfish, certainly. Corydoras of all species thrive on a
mixed diet, and I find bloodworms together with Hikari Algae Wafers
works great.>
Lastly, in a previous communication, you had mentioned that lighting
may be an issue for the two types of plants I had chosen (Hygrophila
deformis and Vallisneria americana).
<Certainly I've never had any luck with Hygrophila in small tanks
with generic lighting. On the other hand, it goes bananas on the
tank I have on a windowsill where it gets full sun for a few hours
each day. Vallisneria can often adapt to a variety of conditions
depending on your luck. But in both cases, neither would be my
choices for tanks with under 2 watts per gallon.>
Currently, I have just 20 watts of compact fluorescent light over
the 10 gallons.
<Give it a shot, see what happens. The Vallis may well do OK, but if
the Hygrophila goes "leggy" with long stems and small leaves instead
of being nice a bushy, replace with something less demanding.>
However, it dawned on me that I have a spare 150 watt HQI metal
halide clip on fixture that I could lend to the tank if you thought
that would be more appropriate.
<No.... algae city!>
I know that is going from one end of the spectrum to the other as
far as intensity, but I just wanted to mention it and see what you
thought.
<Start simple, see what happens. Easier to make a cheap replacement
of plant species from what you have to, say, Anubias and
Cryptocoryne, than mess about with expensive lighting systems and
major algae problems.>
Thanks for all of your help with this entire situation. I really
feel like you have put me in a much better condition to succeed than
if I had simply struck out on my own and I AND the public library as
well as their employees kindly thank you for that. Much
respect.-Nick
<Happy to help. Cheers, Neale.>
|
Question about my aquarium... FW,
Small, stkg. 7/18/08
Hello,
I was just wondering if I could ask you a question?
<Feel free!>
I have a 5 gallon tank and realize the size is not ideal but I will be
upgrading in 6 months time to as large a tank as I can get, once I move
house. Right now I have 1 female guppy who is very lively and healthy
seeming and 7 neon tetras. Am I overstocked?
<Depends how you define these things. If things are working for now, I'd
leave things be and not add any more fish. The problem with small tanks is
that they can quickly topple over from working nicely into being a complete
disaster. The bigger the tank, the slower this happens, which is why bigger
tanks are recommended. For the average aquarist, a 20 gallon tank is a good
starting point, or 30 gallons if you want to keep medium-sized sort of fish
like cichlids rather than guppies and tetras.>
I worry about it and can't provide a bigger home for them and didn't realize
when I started the tank it may be too small. I've had it for a couple of
months so its cycled and I do a 25% water change every week, sometimes more
frequently if I feel it needs it. It also has a hang-on filter, lighting,
heater and a air pump connected to a air stone. The temp remains constant at
25 degrees c. I also have an Amazon sword plant which I think is growing
well and a banana plant. PH is around 7.5.
<It all sounds nice. Small tanks aren't "bad", they're just difficult. I
have an 8-gallon tank that is incredibly rewarding. It sits on a windowsill
and I let the aquatic plants grow out the top. Some of them are twice as
tall above the water as they underneath the water, and they're covered with
flowers. In there I keep livebearer fry (Limia nigrofasciata) and some
Cherry shrimps, which are breeding like crazy, and four little Aspidoras
catfish that are barely an inch long. The thing is that I'm an expert
fishkeeper and I know what I'm doing. For someone new to the hobby, this
sort of tank would be very difficult to set up. Or more specifically, they'd
be trying to add too many fish that are too big for the system, and so cause
problems. This is why we recommend 20 gallon tanks for beginners: they're
easy to stock with popular fish, and they're big enough that they will
"forgive" accidents and oversights.>
I realize I made a mistake not buying a huge tank but I'm not living in my
own house but my sisters and thus don't have room for a huge one. Anyway I
can make them happy and healthy? They seem fine at the moment. One neon
tetra does have a small pale patch near the tail, I at first thought it was
fungus but its not growing and seems to just be a pale part of its skin. Its
not like a dot so I don't think its ick and none of the other fish have it.
What do you think?
<Difficult without a photo. Could be early stages of Finrot, but I suspect
it might be the dreaded Neon Tetra Disease (or so-called False Neon Tetra
Disease). In either case what happens is the fish loses colour by stages,
becomes shy, separates off from the school, stops eating, and then dies.
It's very contagious, and passed on when healthy fish peck at dead or dying
fish. So if you are sure the fish is sick, isolating it is a good idea, and
painlessly destroying it the best plan of all. Neons these days are plagued
with this disease, and I know lots of people who buy a big school of Neons
and end up with only half of them just a few months later.>
Thank you very much if you can answer.
<Hope this helps, Neale.>
|
Air Bubbles/ Ick / Help!
-03/17/08
Hello,
<Ave,>
First of all, I want to thank you so much for this extensive website. It has
proven multiple times to be an extremely helpful asset. I am very sorry if you
have previously answered this question before.
<If we've answered it, we'll direct to the answer!>
Okay, I am living in a very small apartment. Though I had many small aquariums
when I was younger, I have not had any in a very long time. What I was
originally looking for was a very small desktop aquarium to put on my desk
(obviously [= ). The one I purchased was the one recommended to me by the
PetSmart personnel, a Top Fin Aquascene 1. It’s a triangular-shaped aquarium
with dimensions 10.125”L x 7”D x 9.875”H.
<Triangular (and any other funky shaped) aquaria are bad; they're a waste of
space, and hold less water than a rectangular shape would. They're also
difficult to stock, because surface area is critical, and again, these have less
than ideal surface area to volume ratio. If space is truly at a premium, then
weird shape aquaria are the WORST choices you can make.>
I am not quite sure how many gallons it is.
<Easy: find out how many buckets of water it takes to fill. In any case, since
it's A LOT smaller than 1 cubic foot (12 x 12 x 12 inches, about 8 US gallons)
this comes under the heading "Too Small For Fish". Perhaps keep shrimps, plants,
snails. But not fish.>
To filter, it uses an under gravel filter with an air stone.
<OK.>
I purchased the fish that the associate recommended: 3 (2 females – one looks
quite pregnant and 1 male) red/orange guppies with black tails and fins (she
told me they were guppies, but after some research, I think they are actually
platys) and 1 albino dwarf “sucker” catfish. All fish are between 1 and 2
inches.
<Nope. None of these are acceptable for this aquarium. None. Not at all. Never.
No. Nix.>
I set up the new tank with aquarium rocks and 2 aquarium plants, and within a
short time (about an hour) added the fish. I asked the associate if there is
anything I needed to do, and she never mentioned cycling the aquarium. I had no
idea that aquariums needed to be cycled until I read something about it last
night on your wonderful site. I feel so horrible for not realizing it before I
put the fish in -- I am really worried about my fish.
<I'm worried too. You need to read/review fishkeeping before spending money.>
At least two of my guppies/platys have developed signs of Ich/Ick (little white
cysts) and one of them is doing something that vaguely represents “humping” the
water (not rubbing). I am so sorry for my crude description, but I have no idea
how else to put it. My little Harvey (the male) is the one who is showing the
most little white cysts. He has been off by himself underneath a plant – for a
few minutes I thought he was dead. I am so worried that I did something to hurt
them.
<Yes, you did do stuff wrong. Wrong tank, wrong volume of water, wrong way of
setting up.>
When I started up the tank, I put some API Stress Coat into the aquarium to
treat the water. I have fed them Tetra Color Tropical Flakes. Last night I put
in some QuICK Cure, and put 2 drops in today instead of 1 because I am not
seeing any improvement.
<Please, unless you're a vet/microbiologist with a minor in organic chemistry --
follow the instructions on the package! Don't make stuff up as you go along!>
I have also noticed an incredible amount of bubbles on the top of my aquarium.
They look as though they are start from the top of the filter, although the
water level is over the top of the filter. At first, I thought that the bubbles
were caused by the air stone being too close to the top of the water because it
had slid up, but I pushed it back down, and there has been no improvement in the
amount of bubbles.
<Bubbles like CO2 coming out of solution as the water temperature changes. Quite
common in small tanks.>
Are the bubbles in any way related to the ICH?
<No.>
I thought it might be connected because the bubbles completely but temporarily
dispersed when I added in the Quick Cure.
<Unrelated.>
Or, and I don’t think that this is it, but are the bubbles in any way possibly
related to the light? There is a small light in the aquarium. I read somewhere
that guppies/platys desire a 70ish temperature, (my room stays at about 71), and
since the water was quite cold and I do not have a thermometer, I have left the
light on constantly since last Wednesday-ish.
(I purchased the tank on Monday evening, and it is now Saturday). Is this bad
for them?
<Tropical fish should be kept at a constant 25 C/77 F. I don't care how you do
that, but you DO HAVE TO DO THIS. Unless you live in the tropics, then your
house will be too cold for them. They're called "tropical fish" for a reason,
and not as a marketing ploy!>
I also noticed a small white membrany-looking thing inside the tube connected to
the air stone (I have no other idea how to describe it.)
<Perhaps algae or fungus of some sort. Siphon out.>
Just wanted to double check that I AM supposed to leave that air filter on all
the time. I turned it off last night because I was having so many bubbles that
the lid was coming off the tank.
<Yes, the air pump must stay on all the time if it is driving the undergravel
filter (or any other filter).>
Also, the two guppies/platies that were actually moving around were both like
mesmerized by the top of the air filter (where the bubbles come out.)
<They like water current.>
I turned the light and pump off last night, and the bubbles are gone. I am
afraid to turn them back on.
<As temperature goes down, the CO2 dissolves into the water. I'm sure you
remember your chemistry class at school about the solubility of gases in water
as it relates to temperature.>
Also, I think that the first day I overfed them, because I would watch them eat,
and when it looked as though they had finished, I would add more. I couldn’t
believe how much they had eaten. However, I think that some of the flakes had
been swept by the filter into the top of one of the plants, because I noticed
several flakes mixed in with the rocks at the bottom.
<All food should be gone within 1-2 minutes of feeding. And in such an insanely
unsuitable aquarium as this, feeding more than once a day would be wrong.>
Also, should I do a water change?
<50% weekly.>
The water isn't even a week old.
<Quite right. Old water is bad water.>
Please tell me what to do! – I will do anything for them! ]=
<Buy a bigger tank. This is not negotiable. This aquarium was a stupid purchase
frankly, and I'd sooner you'd asked for help before spending the money. There's
no way these fish will last long in it. Take my advice: get something around the
20 gallons mark. Yes, it might look big in the store, but trust me, you will be
so thankful afterwards. You can keep reasonable numbers of fish (those Corydoras
are schooling fish for example and unhappy kept in groups of less than 6) and
your aquarium will be about 1 million times easier to keep.>
Thank you so much in advance for your time and concern.
<Not a problem.>
Jessica
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Air Bubbles/ Ick / Help!
Oh, and its a 1-gallon aquarium.
<Too small for fish. Possibly cherry shrimps and snails. But that's it. Cheers,
Neale.>
Re: Air Bubbles/ Ick
/ Help! -03/17/08
Thank you for the quick reply.
<Not a problem.>
The thing is, we are not allowed to have aquariums larger than 2.5
gallons.
I agree, it is a stupid rule.
<Well there it is: if this is the rule, then fishkeeping honestly isn't
an option. I'm saying this from years of option *and* from daily trying
to help people with these "micro tanks". But for less experienced
hobbyists unable to select the appropriate livestock and monitor/control
water quality, these small aquaria are death traps for fish.>
I asked a million questions of multiple sales associates, so I am sorry
if I was under the impression that I had done my research.
<Don't be too disheartened. We all make mistakes.>
I am trying my very best to take care of them.
<Good stuff!>
Please let me know what I should do.
<Apropos to what? In a tank this small I'd not be keeping fish at all.
I'd perhaps go with a clump of Java moss, a few nice little
Cryptocorynes, some pretty stones and sand, and then some Nerite snails
and cherry shrimps. That would be relatively stable and easy to look
after. Also colourful and fun to watch. But fish honestly need more
space than 2.5 gallons, except perhaps a single Betta (but talk about a
boring life, being a Betta stuck in a glass box that size!).>
Thank you in advance.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Thanks again for your input. I really do appreciate it. [=
<Cool. Good luck, Neale.> |
African Dwarf Frogs...
Froggy, small sys. period 2/27/08
I have a 5 gallon hexagonal kit tank that I had 2 guppies and a African
Dwarf Frog that the sales girl at the pet store sold me because my 3 year old
wanted a "froggy".
<Please let me start by saying that buying animals for children as small as this
isn't a good idea. Buy animals if you want them, and sure, let small children
observe. But unless you're really willing to make this your hobby, it is simply
a waste of time (and often animal lives) buying pets for very small children.>
As I am sure you can guess, my uncycled 5 gallon tank has since lost my fish.
The first went about a week and a half after I populated it and the second
today. I have had the aquarium roughly a month. I have done a lot of
research/reading since then and have since purchased a 20 gallon kit tank. My
plan is to put fish in the 20 gallon tank and keep frogs in the five gallon tank
since I have fallen in love with "froggy" , who by the way got his first helping
of frozen bloodworms today after almost a month of the pellets they sold me at
the store. Can't say I ever saw froggy eat them but he has survived and
something was eating some of them. My nitrite, ammonia, ph, and all my water
parameters are right on as to what this web site suggests for froggy and he
seems to be adapting well to his tank this week-before this he hid most of the
time. I believe my fish were victims of over-feeding due to lack of knowledge. I
think the were eating froggy's food as well as their own. I would like to keep
as many Frogs (all African Dwarf Frogs) as possible without over crowding. I
also want to make sure I introduce them in a timely matter. My questions are
this. How many can I keep in this type of tank. I am sure the 1 frog to every
gallon of water rule just doesn't quite apply, due to the shape although I would
love to have a colony that large! Maybe I will switch to a square tank. How do
you cycle a tank for frogs? And lastly on frogs How many can I introduce at a
time and how far apart?
<Hymenochirus spp. frogs are not especially difficult to keep when alone, but
almost never succeed in the long term alongside fish. Sure, sometimes it works,
but usually it doesn't. The main problem is that Hymenochirus are shy, slow
feeders. They also need to eat quite a lot, and this causes problems with water
quality. Per meal, the frogs must be receiving sufficient food that their belly
swells out ever so slightly. Initially, you'll need to feed them daily to
recover condition from their time at the pet store, but subsequently you might
decide to skip feeding them every two or three days. Freeze-dried foods do not
seem to be good for them, so always use either live or wet frozen foods. I'd not
keep more than 3-4 specimens in a 5 gallon tank. I'd mature the tank by adding
filter media from another healthy aquarium; amphibians generally are sensitive
to poor water quality, which leads to things like the dreaded Red Leg.
Hymenochirus spp. generally work well in groups; introduce them all at once into
a fully matured aquarium. Do ensure there are plenty of hiding places, such as
caves and plastic plants.>
I also would like to cycle up my 20 gallon tank and have a decorative, colorful,
active tank to enjoy. Again without over crowding. I had thought about 3-4
Guppies, 6 Endlers, and 6 tetras-either neon or cardinal.
<I'd say no to all of this, at least as a combo. For a start, Endlers and
Guppies hybridise, and while you might not care very much, this is a problem if
you have to get rid of excess fry. What do you sell them as? Allowing
hybridisation in aquaria is simply a bad habit and not one to get into.
Secondly, tetras often (though not always, I'll admit) nip the fins of Fancy
Guppies. Thirdly, there are differences in water chemistry. Tetras want soft,
slightly acidic water; Guppies and Endlers want hard, basic water. Conditions
that suit the one will be stressful for the other, so you'll constantly be
having to deal with sickness. Much better to determine what your local water
chemistry is, and then choose fish accordingly. Please see the multiple articles
we have here about water chemistry for more info, or turn to any aquarium book
of your choice.>
I noticed some of you think tetras are difficult to take care of.
<Can be, many species being either sensitive to poor water quality, nippy
towards tankmates, or aggressive amongst themselves.>
Would this type of community work well?
<No.>
I think we would prefer quantity with color over size in our tank. Honestly I
had to search so hard to find the guppies (since it was just two and they hid)
in the 5 gallon, it seemed hardly worth the effort.
<Can seem this way, but always remember your job is to give a home to the fish
that the fish enjoy. If that means the fish are hidden half the time, so be it.
Would you want to be constantly watched by some gigantic human-keeper?>
I agree these little hex tanks are hard to take care of and I think my frogs
will do better in them.
<Those little Hexagon tanks are a gimmick, and no experienced aquarist would
recommend one over a traditional rectangular aquarium. The problems are
multiple, not least of which is the terrible surface area to volume ratio.
Though seemingly cheap, they're actually poor value because of how little they
actually "do".>
Thanks ahead of time for you advice and knowledge-Deb
<Cheers, Neale.>
|
Need some help please;
dyed fish, overstocking
2/3/08
Hey.
I just bought a 4 gallon fish tank (baby BiOrb) as I wanted to get more
fish. I already had a Fighter Fish so added him into there, but he's
getting really stressed out. I have an air pump in there, some fake
plants, some stones that came with the tank and a heater. There are also
3 other fish in there - 2 Diamond Tetras and 1 Coloured Cory (he seems
to be fine with them). Will he just get used to it, or should I do
something? If so what?
Thanks
Josie
<Hello Josie. No you can't add more fish! You are already criminally
overstocked. Diamond tetras (Moenkhausia pittieri) are medium-sized
tetras that are very active schooling fish, and should be kept in groups
of at least six specimens and in tanks 20 gallons upwards. So they're
already very unhappy. The Corydoras needs to be in a much larger tank as
well, and is also a schooling fish, so he's probably terrified and
definitely unhappy. Keeping these fish in this way is cruel -- there's
no other word for it. Another issue: how did you mature the filter? Just
dumping a bunch of fish into a brand-new aquarium is a death sentence.
Cycling a tank takes about 6 weeks the old fashioned way. In your case,
adding a single Betta is really the only thing you can do for that time
period, coupled with regular (likely 25% water changes every day or
two). I assume you have a nitrite test kit, because if you just dumped
these fish straight into a new aquarium the nitrite and ammonia will
soon be at toxic levels, and then your fish will get sick or die. Please
note that "letting the tank stand for 24 hours" doesn't do anything to
cycle the aquarium; cycling requires a source of ammonia, either
inorganic (from a bottle) or via suitable livestock (typically hardy
fish of some sort). Regardless, a 4-gallon tank is a bucket in terms of
volume, and while arguably adequate for a single fancy Betta, that is
all. I personally wouldn't even keep a Betta in a 4-gallon tank. If you
want something for a 4-gallon container of water buy some cut flowers
and take up flower arranging. Seriously, these micro-tanks are
incredibly difficult to run for inexperienced fishkeepers and almost
always end up going bad. Your Betta is probably unhappy because the tank
feels more like a cage filled with random animals, and he can't get any
peace and quiet. So no, he's unlikely to settle down any time soon. I'm
also concerned that you bought a "coloured" Corydoras. I hope you don't
mean one that was painted or dyed; this is a very cruel process where
dye is injected (without anaesthesia) into the muscle blocks under the
skin. Some fish die in the process, and those that survive have
increased mortality. No fishkeeping writer or vet supports this part of
the trade, and it is one aspect that I think brings shame on the
industry generally. It's been known for years that these fish are
effectively tattooed, so if your retailer says they were just "painted
harmlessly" he's probably lying and doesn't deserve your patronage.
Please do not support this sadistic practise by buying any more coloured
fish. Instead, go buy a book about tropical fish or borrow one from a
library. Read up on what fish need, and how to care for them. There are
plenty of articles here at WWM too. Hope this helps, Neale.>
Re: Need some help
please; dyed fish, overstocking 2/3/08
We went on the advise of our local fish stockist - so I will not
answer all your ranting about it being criminally overstocked.
<Hello Josie. A 4 gallon tank with all those fish *is* overstocked and
*is not* going to work in the long term. Whether you want to take my
advice -- as a professional fishkeeping writer and trained marine
biologist who writes for all the major magazines -- or not is up to you.
What you've got from me is honesty and the facts; what you choose to do
with them is your decision. But I will make the point that your fish
depend upon you, and their lives are at risk if you do the wrong things.
If the welfare and happiness of the animals you look after doesn't
matter to you, so be it, but it isn't my job to candy-coat the facts to
make them more acceptable to you. You already have problems now, and
they're going to get worse. What else can I say?>
All I will reply to is 'coloured' doras. Of course we did not tattoo or
dye it. I bought it from a reputable dealer and it is a coloured albino
Cory - just a coloured tail not coloured anywhere else and is natural.
<By definition, albino fish don't have coloured tails. Think about this
for just one second -- if you remember your biology from school, you
will recall that albinos don't produce any colours in their bodies. If
an albino fish has a brightly coloured tail, it's been dyed, or rather,
tattooed. This is a cruel practise, no discussion. The British RSPCA
considers it 'cruel and unnecessary' and various fish magazines around
the world have lobbied hard against it. See here:
http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/pfk/pages/show_article.php?article_id=72
But the only thing that will stop it, short of laws, is that people are
educated about the process and choose not to buy the fish. If you've
made the purchase out of ignorance, that's fine and you can learn the
lesson. We all make mistakes. But I would encourage you not to buy any
more. Hardly any shops in England still sell these fish, but a few do,
unfortunately.>
Thanks
Josie
<You're welcome, Neale.>
Re: Need some help please; dyed
fish, overstocking 2/3/08
It does look like this fish has been dyed - so I will not be buying
anymore and will ask the fish shop about it next time we go.
<That's all you can do. Live and learn. If the store owner genuinely
doesn't know about this issue, then perhaps you can educate them and
they will stop buying the fish.>
Do you think it is worth me reporting the fish shop to the RSPCA - if
this
will help stop this practice then I will of course do it.
<The RSPCA are on the case already, but unfortunately importing dyed
fish isn't (yet) illegal. The 2006 Animal Welfare Bill only prevents
cruelty to fish that takes place within the UK, so while you could
(potentially) prosecute someone who tattooed a fish in the UK, there's
nothing in the Bill to prevent a wholesaler from imported fish that had
been tattooed in Southeast Asia (which is where this practise is rife).
If you're wondering why people like me get worked up about this issue,
it's because the people who dye these fish are also doing things like
cutting off the fins, even the tails, of fish (without anaesthesia) to
make them more "interesting" to the market that buys them. Thankfully
these fish don't seem to be sold in the UK, but they're certainly in the
Asian trade. If you have a strong stomach, see here:
http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/pfk/pages/item.php?news=957
Not pretty.>
We did not know that this practice even existed - why would people do
such a
thing to any animal even a fish. To cause deliberate distress to
anything
is wrong.
<Indeed. I think most aquarists would agree with you. I accept everyone
makes mistakes, and I still do stupid things from time to time (I left
the heater off in one of my tanks last night, for example). But the flip
side is when we find out about something bad we're doing, or something
bad in the trade, we act accordingly.>
We will certainly be more careful in our choice of fish in the future.
<Very good. A good aquarium book is helpful, and if all else fails, drop
WWM a line and tell us about what fish you've seen and what sort of tank
you have. Chances are you'll get a quick reply telling you whether or
not such a fish would work well for you.>
Thanks
Barb
<Cheers, Neale.> |
One last question( for today anyway).
Small tank lvstking.
9/7/07
Neale,
<Linda,>
Thank you again. I found this site when I had a sick Betta in another tank. Poor
thing did not make it even though I got an immediate response form WWM. Nor did
two of three black neon tetra. I now have a ( embarrassed pause) three gallon
tank with one lone black neon in it.
<Eek. Well, he probably wants a few pals. A three gallon tank isn't really
useful for fish, in my opinion. Get some cherry shrimp and a lump of Java moss
instead. Much more fun to watch, and the cherry shrimp will happily breed,
providing you with lots of entertainment as the baby shrimps grow. The baby
shrimps are almost indescribably cute and very easy to rear. Being bright red,
the female cherry shrimps are also very colourful. Juveniles and males are
translucent pink.>
I have had the thought of putting him in the 5 gallon tank with the Betta and
four platies. The black neon seems healthy. He is active, eats well. Thought I
could use the small tank as an isolation tank. Should I shift the neon?
<I would, and get him some pals.>
Is the small tank safe for use as a hospital?
<Not really, no. Much better to have all your fish happy and healthy in one tank
than to fuss about with hospital tanks. Healthy fish kept properly just don't
get sick much. It's hard for beginners to accept sometimes, but truly,
experienced fishkeepers can go years between buying fish and/or medication. It's
an easy hobby... once you get over the learning curve (probably like most other
things... driving, raising children, cooking, sex, etc.)>
The Betta I lost had brown splotches that seemed to spread and the neons just
were there and then not. I assume my lack of knowledge of cycling killed them. I
will maintain the three gallon for the neon but is he ok alone?
<Yes and no. He's obviously alive, but I doubt he's happy.>
Glad you enjoy what you do to the point you will help out fish with new owners.
Linda
<I'm glad too! Doing these questions is my "time out" when having cups of tea in
between my actual work. Have fun, Neale>
Betta Companions and General
Tank Questions – 08/31/07
Hi WWM Crew;
My name is Andrea and I have been taking care of a male Betta who's owner
couldn't keep it anymore. Currently it's living in a standard sized fish bowl
and seems quite happy. I'm going to move him into a 5 gallon hexagonal fish
aquarium (has a carbon filter and Bio-wheel filter) that I'm bringing back up.
Because of this I was hoping to get a few more fish in the aquarium, and was
wondering if a small school of say 3 Neon and 3 Glo-Light Tetra's would work out
with him. I am also a fan of Synodontis catfish and was wondering if he would be
compatible with one or not (the last Synodontis I had was very mild mannered and
left the other fish alone). Your answers to these questions would be much
appreciated.
Andrea
<Hello Andrea. Do not mix your Betta with any of the fish mentioned. Tetras tend
to nip their fins, even "good" tetras like Neons. Some people mix them fine, but
some people don't, and you don't really want to take the chance unless you have
another aquarium ready to house one or other species if things go wrong. As for
Synodontis, other than the fact most species will nibble on the fins of Bettas
given the chance, a 5 gallon tank is simply nowhere near big enough to house
them. Even the dwarf S. nigriventris needs something like a 20 gallon tank,
ideally more, because they are social fish that do best when kept in threes or
more. If you must mix a Betta with something else, consider some type of small
snail or shrimp. They will be fine in a tank your size, and generally cause no
problems with Bettas. Cherry shrimps (Neocaridina denticulata sinensis) are
tremendous fun, being not only colourful algae eaters, but also quite willing to
breed, so before long you'll have lots of baby shrimp scuttling about the tank
that you can grow on and share with other fishkeepers. Cheers, Neale>
Fish help, stkg. small FW
8/9/07
I am wondering what fish I could possibly put in a 10 gallon aquarium. Right
now it is just a tank and lid with incandescent light bulb and a really old
Whisper 10. I will be buying for it either a new Whisper 10, which is for 5-10
gallons, with a turn-over of 90 gph, or a Rapids Mini Canister Filter which is
for up to 20 gallons and has a turn-over of 80 gph. Some freshwater sand as a
base with a mix of live plants such as Cabomba, Amazon sword, Anacharis, and
some sort of hybrid plant that is in my 10 gallon right now. I will use silk
plants as a filler until the plants get bigger I will put in some small terra
cotta gardening/craft pots to give the fish hiding spots. I do not want another
Betta, because I already have 3, one of which lives in an Eclipse Hex Five and
the other two are living in two different community tanks belonging to my
mother. I will also buy a Whisper 10 air pump and all the stuff to go with that;
a Rena Cal Top light Excel heater, which is for 5-15 gallons of water, it has an
adjustable thermostat; a Coralife Digital thermometer; all sorts of medications
and conditioners, such as API tap water conditioner, BIOZYME, Amquel, Proper pH
(the balance that is appropriate for the fish you may suggest, they have 6.5-8.2
pH); BIO-Spira Freshwater; Kent Freshwater essential; and lastly Seachem
Equilibrium. I will be buying an APUI freshwater master test kit, API freshwater
aquarium salts, and lastly a Coralife Mini compact50/50 fluorescent bulb. What
fish could I keep in this set up? I know not many because of the size. The only
aquarium I have right now is the Betta tank and a Goldfish set-up (2 3" goldfish
and a 3" Pleco live in the 10 gallon right now) I am buying the goldfish and
Pleco a 29 gallon aquarium in about a week or two (which is when I will also buy
all of the above stuff too) I was thinking of a salt water, but they are too
much work for me what with the painstaking and time-expensive live rock
acclimation process, plus most stores do not guarantee their saltwater fish
because they are wild caught. It's not worth it to me. So what can I put in it?
I would prefer a mostly one species or a slight mix of different kinds.
<I can tell you what I have in my two ten-gallon tanks. In one of them, a "long"
tank about 8" wide by 24" long, I have a small group of Corydoras. Periodically
they spawn, and rearing the fry is fairly easy, even in a breeding net because
they are very accommodating little animals. Once the fry are a couple of months
old, they can go in with their parents until I pass them on to other
fishkeepers. Corydoras are fun, easy to care for, and any number of varieties
are available so you can pick and choose a species you like. This tank is
basically unplanted because it has no hood or lights, and while in summer I add
some floating plants brought in from the garden, these are a temporary thing.
The tank contains a mix of sand and gravel so they can dig nicely, and a couple
of ornaments for a bit of shade when the catfish want to lurk (a ceramic Chinese
bridge, that sort of thing). In another 10 gallon tank, this one about 10" wide
and 18" long I have a group of cardinal tetras and cherry shrimps plus a lone
and very tame halfbeak female who has (greatly) outlived her siblings. The
shrimps breed, as do the snails, so the whole tank looks a bit like a freshwater
reef tank. It's planted with Java moss, Anubias, tiger lily, and Vallisneria,
and while the lighting isn't much (11 Watts, I think) because the tank is so
shallow the plants seem to do quite well. The Java moss certainly covers
everything and needs regular cutting back. The whole thing looks quite pretty.
Cardinals are very eye-catching for their size, but not very active, so you get
the bright colours without worrying about them feeling cramped. You can safely
have a dozen or more of these tiny tetras in a 10 gallon tank, just keep on top
of water changes and don't over-feed them. The shrimps are pretty low
maintenance since all they eat are the microbes, algae, and decaying organic
matter trapped in the Java moss. If you wanted to keep something else instead of
Cardinals (or Neons for that matter) another good "mini" fish is the Endler's
guppy; there's lots of variety there, and being so tiny they fit well in small
tanks. A third option is the bumblebee goby. While arguably best kept in
slightly brackish water, this little goby can also be kept in freshwater tanks
too. The main problem with it is feeding: it loses out to more competitive
animals like guppies and tetras. But on its own, or with shrimps and Nerite
snails for example, it's easy to care for and spawns readily. It's also great
fun to watch, as each goby defends its shell or cave fiercely, and will chase
others away. Each goby needs about a gallon of space including a cave, so in a
10 gallon tank, you can have a whole bunch of them. If you go with gobies you
can always make the system brackish water and add sea shells and fake corals.
Add some of the exotic brackish water Nerite snails and shrimps and you can
create a very passable imitation of a saltwater aquarium at a fraction of the
cost! Finally, the dwarf pufferfish is perhaps the current fish-du-jour for the
mini aquarium. Although not hardy or a beginner's fish, it isn't difficult to
keep if you have a bit of fishkeeping experience, and in a 10 gallon tank you
can keep 2-4 specimens depending on the shape of the tank and how well you
divide it up into caves, tangles of plants, and bogwood hidey-holes. They're
neat little fish, and well worth the extra effort. Hope this gives you some
ideas. Cheers, Neale>
Was: fish and salt... Now nano FW stkg.
7/13/07
Neale,
Thanks for the info. May I ask one more question please? I also have a 12 gallon
Nano type tank. Will the Corys and Kuhli Loach do okay in this tank?
What fish will do well with them and how many can I put in this type of tank?
Most of the info I can find for Nano Tank talks about a Marine Set-up and I just
don't think I am ready for that yet.
Thank You,
Melissa
<Hello Melissa. Keeping a "nano" tank is difficult. In the case of freshwater
fish, its doubly difficult because we don't tend to keep invertebrates, just
fish, and fish are not very good in very small tanks. A marine aquarist with a
nano tank can stock it with corals and starfish and shrimps and of he goes. Not
so easy for us freshwater folks! Our pets expect swimming room. Assuming you
*don't* add salt, then your Corydoras and Kuhli loach should do fine. If you add
salt, remove those two fish and stick with livebearers of various types.
Personally, I'd avoid swordtails and mollies because they [a] get big and [b]
males tend to be aggressive. But guppies, Endler's, and platies will all
co-exist nicely, and they're salt-tolerant at low doses. If you add salt, you
also have the option of adding brackish water fishes such as gobies, which would
be a superb addition to any small aquarium. Wrestling halfbeaks are also salt
tolerant and do very well in small tanks. In a tank *without* salt, apart from
bumping up the numbers of Corydoras and Kuhli loaches, I'd be thinking about
small tetra or barb species. Cherry barbs are always fun, being territorial
rather than schooling fish and a nice shade of red. Badis badis (the "chameleon
perch") is a superb fish for the small aquarium, and while it will not eat flake
(wet frozen or live food only!) its amazing colour changes make it great value.
There are also some miniature gouramis worth considering. The sparkling gouramis
Trichopsis pumilus is a lovely little fish, and couldn't be easier to keep.
Basically, choose fish for the water in your tank, and then limit yourself to
species 4 cm or less in length, and ideally pick species that will do well
singly/in small groups and doesn't need a lot of swimming space. Danios, for
example, are the right size, but their frenetic, restless behaviour makes them a
poor choice in small tanks. Hope this helps! Neale>
Betta splendens Ali? 3/11/07
My Betta was originally in a small Betta container that held about a quart of
water. : ( I felt sorry for him and he now lives in a 5 gal tank (Waterhome5)
which is also home to a few small plants that I keep trimmed to a proportionate
size for the tank and the substrate is small stones, about 1" round (purchased
in a LFS). So far this $4.00 fish has cost me over $100.00.
<A step up to be sure, but still a little small.>
My one and only attempt to add fish to that tank was 2 Mickey Mouse Platys who
managed to live for a whole 5 days before I finally put them out of their misery
when they started looking like losers from a Mohammed Ali boxing match. the
Betta is now named "The Terminator". <I’ll be back.>
<Your tank is too small for this.>
I suspect my mistake was that I added 2 young (1-inch) fish to a tank that
already had one territorial fish, but I want to make the tank more interesting
and entertaining, both for myself and for the fish - although he certainly had
other ideas about that at the time.
<I would select a larger tank. Perhaps a 20g - 29g.>
My 3 local LFS locations have each told me that I should have added 4 or 5 fish
at one time,
<Sure this would work, if you wanted everyone to die from toxic build up.>
suggesting Tetras or White Clouds, and a Corydoras or two instead of just those
2 Platies. I do have a bit of an algae problem that I'm trying to keep under
control, hence the addition of live plants, so am interested in an algae
eater. However, I don't want to add these fish just so they can be sparring
partners for the Betta to train for his next bout. Keeping to the rule of thumb
of 1 inch of fish per gallon of water, would 4 neon tetras and a Corydoras be
too much to add to the Betta in a 5 gallon tank?
<Yes. When you stock, you have to stock with the fish’s adult size in
mind. They sure are cute when they are little, but it won’t last forever. I
would get a larger tank, or let the B. splendens live peacefully on it’s own.>
By the way - your site is the only place I've been able to find sensible,
easy-to-read and easy-to-understand assistance - both are important qualities
required by a "newbie". Thanks for being there for us all.
<That is what we are here for, Brandon.>
Lynne
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