Fiberglass pond repair  – 06/07/07
If you resurface a pond with fiberglass is it safe to put fish in it, or will the fiberglass kill the fish
thank you Frances
<Needs to be cured... but can be done... Not the best material in almost all cases... unless the original construct was/is fiberglass and resin... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/Pond%20Sub%20Web.htm
Scroll down to the tray on "Repair".
Bob Fenner>

Repairing fiberglass waterfall  - 12/04/06
I am trying to repair a prefab fiberglass waterfall. There are no cracks in it. It has lost its original coloring as it is nearly 6 years old.
<Yes...>
We have about 7 fish and I don't want to use anything that will harm them.
Do you know if regular colored grout can be used?
<Do know, and no, cannot be used>
Thanks for any info you could send my way.
<A repair can be made if the original fiberglass/resin isn't too badly delaminated, and the area behind the break is supported well enough (not too flexible)... with fiberglass cloth (look for in determinate widths), color/ing if you'd like, laminating/hot-coat resin and hardener, oh and a "throw-away" small brush to apply it. The falls must be dry, clean, and I'd roughen up the surface with a low grit sandpaper of sorts... do wear gloves, long-sleeve shirt and avoid the bits of fiberglass removed... let cure... Bob Fenner>
<<Bob, as I read this letter, I thought he was simply trying to restore coloration to an aged fiberglass structure, not repair a structural piece. I was going to try my hand at a reply, but you beat me to it *grin* My suggestion was to be to dry the waterfall surface and try a buffing compound such as 3M Imperial Rubbing Compound to bring back the coloration... Oftentimes oxidation of this sort is simply buildup on the surface of the fiberglass and will buff right out.. I can't tell you how many lake-worn boats I've brought back to a showroom shine with some buffing compound and some elbow grease. Hope this helps! -JustinN>>
>Yikes... do see this as you state (now)... Will re-respond... My input remains the same excepting the use of the fiberglass cloth, tape... roughen up the surface, re-coat with colored laminating (not casting) resin and moderate/measured amount of MEK hardener. Thank you Justin. BobF<
>>No problem, Bob, its what I appreciate most about the community here: the group think concept. Ideas are better thought out when you have more eyes looking at problems, I only ask for the same if I have any such similar incidents *grin*, Subsequently, while on the subject of refinishing a fiberglass structure as such, what is your opinion of one-part epoxy paints, such as those used for jet skis? These were some of the more readily accessible, easy to use, and cheap types of paint I dealt with in my time in the body work industry, and always gave very nice results. Would you feel them to be adequate for such a situation as described above? -JustinN<<
<Mmm, likely so... given very thorough prep... Part of the reason I like the "hot coat" surfboard/use resins... they're much more "sticky", forgiving. Cheers, BobF>

Cutting fiberglass 8/18/05
Dear Bob
<Lisa>
I am using a hot tub shell as a pond in my yard.  There will be a waterfall
into it.  I want to cut the edge or lip off the existing hot tub.  Can I do
this or will it splinter and split?
<Can be cut... either layered or sprayed fiberglass and resin... with a small power tool, gloves, respirator/simple particulate mask, long sleeve tee-shirt, long pants... and taking your time... A "jig-saw" with a fine toothed blade, taping over the area, drawing a line on the tape... (to reduce splintering, and small bits flying about)... take your time... not hard to do. Bob Fenner>

Waterfall 8/18/05
We have a pretty large koi pond, with a purchased water fall make of
fiberglass. we want a larger one and have been thinking of how we could
build one about maybe 4 to 5 feet with a couple of drops. we think we can
build out of concrete, using chicken wire as a base...
<Can, could>
i have looked all
over the internet for ideas.. i don't know if this will work.. what do you
think?
tim and Helen Musgrove
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/Pond%20Sub%20Web.htm
The articles, FAQs files on waterfalls, fiberglass... Bob Fenner>

Can you cut the rim off a pre-formed liner and still be structurally sound?
Dear WWM:
I am having a pond and waterfall installed professionally. Due to deer,
Javalina and gophers, and budget, we went with a hard pre-formed liner
as the pool, and a rock waterfall trickling into it with a flexible liner.
The Problem is that the pond liner (a MacCourt, Key Largo, 270 gals) is
not level. It's at least 4 inches lower now on the rock waterfall side.
<Happens... all the time... my reason for liking the use of water levels... rather than transits, other types of gear.>
There are flat pink flagstones that provide a smooth standing area on
the opposite end. These flagstones overlap the pond liner edge.
The pond was level at first, via their engineering equipment, but (I
believe) during the installation of the overlapping flagstone and
filling, the pond lifted on that end, and bulged inward on two sides.
Now that we've got the water in it, it is noticeable. She said she never
fills the pond before packing the sides and laying the overlapping stones.
<Not necessary... but would save the sort of situation you are in>
Now that we've got the flagstone around half of the pond and the other
waterfall rocks on the other half, the pond is off about 3-4 inches.
Our contractor will make it level. She asked what I thought of simply
cutting the flat rim off the pond and trimming the liner to where it
becomes level. I am trying to research this idea to see if the pond is
no longer structurally sound if we cut the lip off.
Can you please advise?
They will start work on it again right after Labor Day. And will want to
get this completed as soon as possible.
Thank you very much,
LM Feltner
<Can advise... and unfortunately I would not do this. As you speculate, such a modification would very likely seriously compromise the integrity of the basin... I take it this is a composite/fiberglass, resin unit... it may well split if the edge is removed. What are your alternatives? To leave it as is... or to pull it up, out and re-set it (what I would do). Bob Fenner>

Re: Can you cut the rim off a pre-formed liner and still be structurally sound?
<Can advise... and unfortunately I would not do this. As you speculate, such a modification would very likely seriously compromise the integrity of the basin... I take it this is a composite/fiberglass, resin unit... it may well split if the edge is removed. What are your alternatives? To leave it as is... or to pull it up, out and re-set it (what I would do). Bob Fenner>
Thank you very much for your quick response. I went on line to MacCourt
to see what exactly it's made of and couldn't find anything. Key Largo,
largest model they make) It's black plastic, but not fiberglass (unless
it's a composite mixture.) It's not a stand-alone pond, like they say one
can do with fiberglass. I'm wasn't convinced that cutting the edge was
the answer, either.
<The most likely material of construction here is polyethylene... still not a good idea to remove the rim. Do they list a number (even for sales) that you can call with a query?>
The alternative is to dig out from under the high end, take up the
flagstones, and lower it to it's proper height. I think pulling it out
entirely it would have to be pulled away from the waterfall feature,
which has been foamed. BUT, the foam sealant will be tweaked out of
position regardless, and she has to fix a leaking area right next to
where the waterfall spills into the hard liner, anyway. I truly wish it
didn't have to be done, it's a lot of work, but that was our initial
stipulation, that the pond be level, we have had an unlevel pond before
and it irked us for many years until we moved.
<Up to you... the basin itself should be well-settled with either sand or carpet or other material so that it is supported completely>
I'm thinking that a shop-vac could be used to pull up the sand that was
used to pack around the pond, and it will then settle down to it's
original cup. I'm sure she will try to keep from pulling the whole thing
out at this stage. But I don't want it warped or bowed in the middle,
either.
<Good idea... You may find it easiest to remove most all the sand, put down a firm base of a few inches and back fill around all corners AFTER testing (with water or a water level or even a long carpenter's level on a two-by laid across the lip in several areas...) to assure the basin is level all the way around>
Thank you again, for your advice. I really like your web page. A
wonderful resource.
Regards,
Linda Feltner
<Glad to be of assistance. Bob Fenner>