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FAQs on Acclimation Chemicals
Related Articles: Acclimation, Acclimating
Invertebrates, Acclimating
Symbiotic Reef Invertebrates to Captive Lighting, Methylene
Blue,
Related FAQs: Acclimation 1,
Acclimation 2,
Acclimation 3, & FAQs on Acclimation:
Rationale/Use, Tools/Gear,
Methods,
Controversies, Troubles/fixing,
& Acclimating
Invertebrates, Acclimation
of Livestock in the Business, Dips/Baths 1, Best
Quarantine FAQs, Quarantine, |
Some ref.s, some places, folks suggest
different adjuncts... do read thoroughly re specific uses, cautionary
remarks
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Colloidal Silver?
On another board someone recommends over and over putting a few drops
of colloidal silver into the bag new fish come in, while acclimating
them, as a way of preventing/eliminating disease, etc. Claims always
has healthy fish, never introduces disease.
Can anyone at WWM confirm this? Has anyone done it? Just
curious.
<There were some fish medications that used to contain silver salts... there
is need to be within a narrow margin of concentration of actual silver ions...
so, no to "putting a few drops" into a "bag". Some folks
still use Methylene blue (mainly for freshwater) or furan compounds in their
shipping water... these are safe, effective. Bob Fenner>
Treating new fish 6/18/03
Hello Anthony,
<cheers, mate>
I thought about Formalin, but was worried about its effects on the filter (which
is biological)?
<valid... but not so severe as many other meds (like copper, Methylene blue,
erythromycin, etc)>
I will consider a formalin dip, the MelaFix was added
because i had some and i thought it would be fine with the shark.
<agreed... I do believe it is safe for the shark... and safe for the
parasites too <G>>
how lo would you say to lower the salinity by (if the shark was removed)?
<1.018>
I am completely struck on transshipped marines and i am due a list from Hawaii.
Can you suggest any thing from there that is really good or worth having?
<many fine wrasses, a few dwarf angels... beautiful triggers and Tobies
(dwarf puffers)...>
in my mind i am thinking flame angels, potters angel, Lemonpeel angels, yellow
Sailfin tangs, chevron tangs - common but sought after!
<the tangs yes... very much. Great fishes and hardy. The Potters... no way.
They are so delicate that many don't even make it to the US mainland. Not a
strong fish under any circumstance... lets leave those beauties in the sea.
Lemonpeels and Flames can be quite hardy once established though. Very fine.>
Regards, Sam
<best regards, Anthony>
Medication for adding fish 9/13/05
Bob, can you take a look at this message regarding the "secret formula". Do you
know of any such thing?
Regards,
Salty
<I also know of no such "magic herbal remedy"... RMF>
Medication for adding fish
Hello:
About 6 years ago I started in the hobby of keeping a fish only
marine aquarium.
Like most beginners, my luck with keeping the fish alive for an
extended period of time (more than 1 year) was severely limited.
I never had any luck with certain species, specifically the Blue
(Hippo) Tang... and not quite sure why.
I have a 125 gallon tank. With around 250lbs of live rock. Water
quality was "theoretically" perfect, yet the Blue Tangs I would keep
would perish within a few weeks or couple of months.
Anyway, about 3 years ago, I visited a local fish store and I was
discussing this problem with the owner of the store and he sold me a
"medication" to add to the tank when the fish were showing signs of
stress or when I was adding a new fish to the tank. This
"medication" was contained in 2 small (5 ml.) dropper bottles, labeled
"Part A" and "Part B" - and was sold in a small clear plastic box. I
was informed that this product was only available to the trade to
assist in reducing stress on the fish after transportation. I have
no idea what this product was (it was explained as a herbal-based medication)
The store owner said he wasn't supposed to sell this medication...
although I'm not sure why - but it worked absolute wonders.
Anyway - to cut a long story short, I purchased another Blue Tang and
used this medication when adding the fish to my tank. The fish
showed absolutely no signs of stress (which is very rare for Blue
Tangs). A couple of drops (of each part) of this medicine on day
one, and another drop of each 4 days later helped this Tang
tremendously. Also, a couple of other fish that were rather
lethargic, were revitalized - especially a Harlequin Tuskfish.
The entire tank thrived for about 2 and a half years... until a "bad
accident" that occurred when we had our house redecorated, wiped out
the entire tank - which was, at the time, rather annoying and
disappointing.
I am in the process of re-establishing the tank, and have had it set
up for 6 weeks without adding any fish yet.
Do you have any idea what this "medication" was and where I can get
it from - it really worked miracles.
Also, I plan to do fish-only again and want to select colorful fish
that are quite hardy... in this case what would you recommend.
Any info you could provide is greatly appreciated. <Jeff, I know of no "secret"
formula for stressed out fish. Will run this by Mr. Fenner for his input. As far
as starting over, I suggest you search our WWM site, keywords, "startup" and
"quarantine". If things are done properly, no special medication should ever be
needed. As to fish, clowns, Dottybacks and wrasses are all quite colorful and
hardy. James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks,
Jeff
Medication for adding fish 9/16/05
Would the product name "Reef Remedy" possibly be the product I'm looking for? <I've never heard of the product.>
I think this might have been the name of the product, since I found a piece of paper in my cabinet that had this name written on it.
Are you familiar with such a product? <No>
I just remember it working wonders for the fish, especially when acclimating.
Finally, do you have any comments or opinions on the products Bio-Spira Marine (for saltwater) and Purigen (by Seachem) filter absorbent for organics and nitrogenous waste removal. Both of these products have come highly recommended by my local FSH. <I prefer Chemi-Pure
myself. I've heard Purigen works well also, but never used Spira Marine and
have heard nothing about the product. James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks,
Jeff
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Medication for adding fish 9/13/05
Bob, can you take a look at this message regarding the "secret formula". Do you
know of any such thing?
Regards,
Salty
<I also know of no such "magic herbal remedy"... RMF>
Medication for adding fish
Hello:
About 6 years ago I started in the hobby of keeping a fish only
marine aquarium.
Like most beginners, my luck with keeping the fish alive for an
extended period of time (more than 1 year) was severely limited.
I never had any luck with certain species, specifically the Blue
(Hippo) Tang... and not quite sure why.
I have a 125 gallon tank. With around 250lbs of live rock. Water
quality was "theoretically" perfect, yet the Blue Tangs I would keep
would perish within a few weeks or couple of months.
Anyway, about 3 years ago, I visited a local fish store and I was
discussing this problem with the owner of the store and he sold me a
"medication" to add to the tank when the fish were showing signs of
stress or when I was adding a new fish to the tank. This
"medication" was contained in 2 small (5 ml.) dropper bottles, labeled
"Part A" and "Part B" - and was sold in a small clear plastic box. I
was informed that this product was only available to the trade to
assist in reducing stress on the fish after transportation. I have
no idea what this product was (it was explained as a herbal-based medication)
The store owner said he wasn't supposed to sell this medication...
although I'm not sure why - but it worked absolute wonders.
Anyway - to cut a long story short, I purchased another Blue Tang and
used this medication when adding the fish to my tank. The fish
showed absolutely no signs of stress (which is very rare for Blue
Tangs). A couple of drops (of each part) of this medicine on day
one, and another drop of each 4 days later helped this Tang
tremendously. Also, a couple of other fish that were rather
lethargic, were revitalized - especially a Harlequin Tuskfish.
The entire tank thrived for about 2 and a half years... until a "bad
accident" that occurred when we had our house redecorated, wiped out
the entire tank - which was, at the time, rather annoying and
disappointing.
I am in the process of re-establishing the tank, and have had it set
up for 6 weeks without adding any fish yet.
Do you have any idea what this "medication" was and where I can get
it from - it really worked miracles.
Also, I plan to do fish-only again and want to select colorful fish
that are quite hardy... in this case what would you recommend.
Any info you could provide is greatly appreciated. <Jeff, I know of no "secret"
formula for stressed out fish. Will run this by Mr. Fenner for his input. As far
as starting over, I suggest you search our WWM site, keywords, "startup" and
"quarantine". If things are done properly, no special medication should ever be
needed. As to fish, clowns, Dottybacks and wrasses are all quite colorful and
hardy. James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks,
Jeff
Medication for adding fish 9/16/05
Would the product name "Reef Remedy" possibly be the product I'm looking for? <I've never heard of the product.>
I think this might have been the name of the product, since I found a piece of paper in my cabinet that had this name written on it.
Are you familiar with such a product? <No>
I just remember it working wonders for the fish, especially when acclimating.
Finally, do you have any comments or opinions on the products Bio-Spira Marine (for saltwater) and Purigen (by Seachem) filter absorbent for organics and nitrogenous waste removal. Both of these products have come highly recommended by my local FSH. <I prefer Chemi-Pure
myself. I've heard Purigen works well also, but never used Spira Marine and
have heard nothing about the product. James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks,
Jeff
|
Emperor Angel, Breathing and Vertical - 5/11/06
Hi All,
<Dave>
I am a long time reader, first time writer who is (or more accurately, whose
fish is) potentially quickly running out of options.
I purchased a changing Emperor Angel from saltwaterfish.com. I have never
before had any troubles with them other than this. I followed my usual
acclimation procedure. I opened the bag and dripped for four hours to acclimate
him to my QT system. The acclimation container was dosed with Para Guard. This
took place last night.
<... four hours? ParaGuard has a toxic component>
Since I opened the bag and first looked at him, he has been breathing very
heavily and bobbing in a vertical position, head down.
<Did you match the pH of the drip water with that in the shipping bag?>
The vendor assured me that the fish is merely in shock from the stress of
shipping and that he would calm down.
<Something to hope for>
I don't believe that; I have seen this sort of thing happen before and an
shocked fish usually comes around
within 12 hours. This fish has been in the tank now for over 24 hours and has
shown no signs whatsoever of improvement.
<No quarantine?>
He continues to breathe at give or take 170 gill movements/minute, and bob
head down,
<Very bad signs>
usually at the top of the tank but will occasionally move down some.
The current seems to toss him around and when it gets him completely upside down
he rights himself only to resume his vertical position. He is refusing
food. He is sharing the QT system with an Assasi Trigger (separated by
eggcrate, of course) who is eating fine and seems to be in perfect health.
<Oh! Good>
I am worried that I am dealing with disease, possibly the early stages of Marine
Velvet.
<Mmm, not likely>
The fish has shown no physical signs other than what I described though; no
spots, no off colors, no scratching. I don't
want to dip him if unnecessary as I don't want to stress the fish any
further. I have not seen any feces to know if internal bacterial may be
to blame.
What action would you recommend, if any?
Thanks in advance,
Dave
<Is a bit late, but to have matched the pH... Please see here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/acclimat.htm
Particularly the Guerilla piece below... This is highly likely the root cause of
trouble here... shock, hemolysis from pH shift, endogenous ammonia... perhaps
with a Malachite burn to boot:
http://seachem.com/products/product_pages/ParaGuard.html
... I would try to stabilize this animal, leave the lights off... and add a
pentose or hexose sugar as proscribed on WWM. Bob Fenner>
Re: Emperor Angel, Breathing and Vertical -
5/11/06
Bob,
<Dave>
Thanks for your quick reply. I might not have been completely clear in my
message, but wanted to address your concerns to clarify if I had done something
wrong.
<Let's do... am a bit blurry from travel/ing>
Unfortunately, the fish died overnight. I am working with the vendor.
However, I think it prudent to do a "post-mortem" on my acclimation procedure to
make sure I did what I should have done.
<Good idea>
First, I acclimated over four hours, but only introduced Para Guard during the
last hour of the acclimation. I followed the directions on the bottle to the
letter.
<Mmm, am still (as you will find... from long practice) not a fan of using
Malachite... the principal ingredient, other than "aldehydes" in this fine
SeaChem product... in dips for newly arrived marine fishes>
Second, the drip water was from the quarantine tank which had in turn come from
the main tank, which was already at 8.3. You are correct in
assuming that I did not test the PH of the bag water and match it to the tank
water.
<You will find as well that this is an incredibly important step in moving
marines around in "long time" conditions... bringing livestock from one system
quickly (let's say an hour or so) from/to another is a very different matter>
I have never performed that step, but after perusing the acclimation guide
(quickly) it looks like you are talking about a FW dip.
<Mmm, no... this is a different concept/idea... protocol>
That is not a step I performed. I acclimated him to the QT tank's seawater.
Third, the fish exhibited this behavior even before I removed him from the
bag. Nothing changed about his behavior at any time, what I saw when I peered
into the bag even before cutting it open is what I described, ergo he did not
take on this behavior during the procedure, but rather he arrived this way.
<Yes... not unusual for marine angels, most marine fish groups to exhibit this
sort of behavior... indicative of "shipping stress"... low pH, coupled with low
dissolved oxygen, likely high CO2/carbonic acid concentration...>
Fourth, when I say the fish has been in the tank for 24 hours I mean the
quarantine tank, but I think you realized that further on in my message.
<Yes>
Given these clarifications, would you still say something was wrong with the way
I did things, or was the fish doomed from the start?
Thanks again for your help so far!
Dave
<Mmm, a matter of speculation/s and a few possible inputs, but if you had a
hundred, a thousand such fishes to process, you'd find that using Methylene
Blue, eschewing the use of Malachite Green, and especially adjusting/matching
the shipping water pH to the acclimation/dip water would save a significant
number of animals... this has become an "industry practice" of high regard...
largely due to the efforts of Phil Shane/Quality Marine and the fine folks at
TMC in the UK... to give credit where it's due. Bob Fenner>
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Freshwater bath add-ons ... good ideas
5/26/06
Hello,
<Jonathan>
A strange thought occurred to me today. I was remembering that marine fish
'drink water' to maintain their osmotic balance, thus you can use a vitamin
supplement in their water and they will passively absorb some. And fish often
times initially come in underfed / malnourished.
<This is so>
Do you think it would worth it if a put some VitaChem or liquid gold in their
freshwater bath?
<Can help... though minimally due to the short duration of such dips/baths>
Its usually only a bath for about 7 minutes duration, but in that time I can see
their gills are really pumping and their probably taking in water faster than
normal, being that their stressed / surprised.
Also I'm thinking that besides the load parasites that meet their doom in the
freshwater, a fish also sheds off some of its slime coat while in the freshwater
bath.
<Yes>
Do you think wise to place the fish in a bucket of tank water with NovAqua or
any other artificial slime coat product?
<As a S.O.P. I have done this for decades in commercial settings, yes>
I ask to place in a separate bucket afterwards because I assume if I take a
squirt of NovAqua while a begin the bath it will negate some of bath, the
artificial slime coat benefiting the parasites as they hide beneath it.
<Mmm, no... For the most part all get sloughed off...>
I suppose I could squirt in a little NovAqua toward then end of the
bath. What do you think?
<Is what I do, endorse... Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/acclimat.htm>
[p.s. Do you respond in email to questions or do I look them up on the site?]
<Both. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Guerilla Acclimation Techniques
7/5/08
Does this page exist anymore?
<Mmm, yes... renamed: http://wetwebmedia.com/acclimat.htm >
I have read the acclimation page, but in the FAQs people seem to reference
another method (guerilla) and several chemicals not used in the acclimation
technique on the current acclimation article page. Thanks
Matthew Harless
<Re-named Commercial instead of Guerilla... more PC? Bob Fenner>
Shipment coming tomorrow... acclimation question
Hi Jason, (or Bob if you're back).
Thanks for being there with all the great assistance!
<You are welcome by both of us>
Tomorrow I will receive my first shipment of mail-order livestock,
(from FFExpress) and I think I'm ready. I have read and re-read your
page on acclimation (www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimat.htm), and am all
set up to follow the saltwater fish "guerilla" acclimation technique.
I have just a couple small questions:
#1 Using the kitty litter boxes, is it safe to acclimate several
fish in the same container at the same time (as long as they
are not the types to be aggressive towards each other)?
<Yes, quite safe... In wholesale practice we often separate venomous fishes (e.g.
Scorpionfishes, plotosid catfishes...) and larger, very aggressive fishes (e.g. triggers), but otherwise, most often mix together as bags are opened/processed>
#2 Though it indicates that inverts, etc "merit a separate discussion",
I couldn't find anything, so maybe you could give me counsel
on the few non-fish I'm getting:
a. 3 cleaner shrimp
b. 3 peppermint shrimp
c. 1 fire cleaner shrimp
d. 1 green bubble anemone
e. 1 Indonesian red Ricordea
<I would place all of the shrimps together for acclimation, and the two cnidarians together... but do "drain" (I strain with hand movement) the
anemone's shipping water in moving it to the acclimation tray>
Thanks So Much!
Jim Raub
<Be chatting. Bob Fenner>Re: Shipment coming tomorrow... acclimation question
Hi Guys (and welcome back, Bob).
<Hello and thank you>
Sorry to be dense, here, but I just want to confirm that the
same fresh water, pH-adjusted, PVP, Meth blue, Maracide, Maracyn
acclimation solution I will use on the fish is A OK for the shrimp
and cnidarians.
<Mmm, not freshwater... I would use the same other components, but with seawater of about the same density as the shipping water the non-fishes are in>
Also, confirming that unlike with the fish, where we keep their
water and add in the acclimation solution, I should try to drain
away as much of the shipping water as possible from the cnidarians,
and basically just immerse them into the acclimation solution.
(That hand-straining thing... should I worry about being stung?)
<Yes to the technique and no problem with the calloused parts of your hands... do try to keep the stinging-celled animals off your wrist skin... and take care to wash your hands after handling... can be a real owee on your mucus membranes...>
Really Sincere Thanks and Appreciation for all your help!
Jim Raub
<A pleasure my friend. Bob Fenner>
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Questions on acclimating fish for retail sales..
Hi Bob,
My name is Leland Foley and I am starting a Marine Fish/Reef Retail
store.
<Outstanding... I will gladly shake the hand of anyone who would (try to) be self-employed. Welcome to our industry>
I have worked in many other retail stores, including a couple of
years for Inland Aquatics.
<Ahh, Morgan Lidster and I are known to each other>
Anyway, I have been around long enough to
learn a great deal about fish acclimation, and I really like the way you
suggest to acclimate marine fish, but I have a few questions.
<Please>
1.) How do you incorporate dips into your Guerilla Acclimation
Techniques?
I believe, as I'm sure you do as well, that the PVP based dechlorinator,
in combination with the Methylene blue really helps the fish to survive
the stresses of shipping,
<Yes>
but after this acclimation procedure, would it
be too stressful to put them into a formalin dip before putting them
into the main system tanks?
<Good question... as it has the usual (lame) "it depends"... by and large if most all marine fish livestock is in "good enough" shape from this point in an/the acclimation protocol, it's "probably okay" (more beneficial than potentially detrimental) to proceed with another dipping/bath sequence...>
I'm a strong believer in formalin dips and freshwater dips. They
are primarily what I use when I receive a shipment of fish, because I'm
sure as you know Clownfishes, and others will die of Brooklynella or
crypto quite quickly if not treated immediately upon arrival.
<Agreed, especially with Clowns>
My acclimation procedure consists of floating the bags to equalize
the temps, and then in small batches putting the fish into a saltwater
and Formalin dip, or a straight freshwater dip with bicarbonate. I've
found that a great deal of fish will die in a freshwater dip, but do
just fine in a saltwater with formalin dip.
<As always... intelligence and experience go into deciding/judging dip types, duration...>
Then the fish are removed
from the dip and placed into a quarantine system (500 gal.) that is run
by oversized wet/dries, mild protein skimming, and very strong U.V.
sterilization. The fish are given high quality fresh seafood (shrimp,
squid, marine fish, etc..) treated with garlic and Metronidazole for the
first week then flake foods and various frozen foods are introduced.
<Wow, quite an expensive undertaking... but worth it>
I
only use the garlic as a flavor enhancer, it might help remove worms,
but this is not the primary reason I use it.
<I understand>
If a fish pops up with a
bacterial infection we dip it again and carefully keep it overfed. If
ich pops up on 3 or more fish we add copper to the system.
Which brings me to my last question,
2.) What form of copper chelated or non-chelated can be used with
UV sterilizers
on? Or better yet what brand do you recommend?
<In a large operation, volume or livestock flow-wise, non-chelated like the Kordon or Aquarium Systems product... Wouldn't, don't use chelated varieties on sleeved or non-sleeved UVs>
Sorry for the long post, but as you know this is what makes or breaks
ones profits in this industry,
<I do know this... agree. Please make it known if I may be of assistance. Bob Fenner>
Thanks,
-Leland Foley
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