Substrate question Mystery of the dissolving substrate. SW Substrate Replacement 9/2/2009 Hello, <Hi Cassidy, good to hear from you again.> Quick question - I had a 2-1/2" - 3" super fine aragonite substrate in my 300G reef tank and it seems to be getting smaller and smaller as the months pass. <Is normal, will dissolve in time.> I've head its normal for some to dissolve but at this rapid of a rate? There is now only about 1"-2" left after a year. I am wondering if this is affecting my buffer capacity since there are some issues like rapidly falling Alk and ca. <I remember you had issues with falling alkalinity. - If your alkalinity keeps dropping the substrate will get used up faster.> Does it need to be cured prior? <If you are replacing it with 'dead' sand, you should rinse it first to knock the dust off.> I was thinking about just turning off the pumps, getting the substrate wet then use a measuring cup to pour onto the bottom of the tank so it doesn't take several days to settle. <That's fine.> I'm thinking I need to add about 100 Lbs to get back where I was. Should I stir it up to mix the live sand with the new sand or let the sand dwelling creatures take care of that? <You can just rake it in with your fingers - I use a small plastic beach rake myself.> Is that how you would approach this - is there a preferred method? <If you are going to add 100 pounds, don't add it all at once. 20 - 40 pounds a day As always your advice is appreciated. <How is the alkalinity issue working out?> Thank You, Cassidy <MikeV> Also where may I make a donation? I didn't see a link. <There is a button on the lower right hand side of the homepage, Thank you.> Re: Substrate question Mystery of the dissolving substrate. SW Substrate Replacement Alk still falling like a stone. 9/5/2009 Thanks for the advice Mike... <hi Cassidy, sorry for the delay in getting back with you - had another short notice trip out of town> The DKH issues still persist. I had the CA lowered as you suggested but no change on the DKH at all. Mag stays constant at 1200-1300 levels. I have the ca reactor running wide open 24/7 w/ about 3 bubbles per second. Effluent from ca reactor tests fine. <Hmm... what is 'fine'? What is the pH coming out of the reactor and what is the pH of your tank's water? Your alkalinity is being 'burned up' at an alarming rate. Almost as if someone was pouring an acidic solution in the tank.> Have been adding about 2 table spoons of both liquid buffer and powder buffer per day just to keep dKH at 6.5-7 levels. I can dose 1/2 cup of liquid calcium every other day just to keep it at 360ppm - I don't want to add more than that for fear of a snowstorm. <A 'snowstorm' is caused by high calcium and very high alkalinity Should not be too much of a concern here.> I have no idea what the issue is now. I'm at a loss. My tank is pretty heavily stocked but I've seen people with 10x as much as I have without these issues. Very mixed tank. Lots of LPS and some SPS. <I see this in the pictures You do have a highly stocked tank > If I don't dose for Alk it will drop to 2 dKH in 3 days. <Shockingly fast.> I didn't want to let it go any lower than that for fear of causing harm. Same with Ca. <Understood.> I am running carbon and Seachem Phosban - but everything I read says that it shouldn't affect these things. I ran tank with out for 1 week to test but problem persisted. <Those will not cause this.> Hopefully something isn't terribly wrong! <Something is very wrong.> I attached a few pics to share so you can see the stocking amount. <I propose this. Please, do test your water and send in the readings. This one is going to take a little work to figure out. 1. pH of your tank with your lights on and your lights off. 2. pH of the water coming out of the reactor 3. pH of your top off water and the water you use for changes (with the salt already mixed in) 3. Alk for the above.. 4. Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and phosphate (These are all thinks that will drive down your Alk.) 5. What are you feeding and how much? 6. How much water are you changing a week and how much are you topping off for evaporation per day? Please get these answers back to me and we will go from there.> Also could you identify what kind of starfish those are? <I can't ID it.> I keep pulling them out of the filter socks.. A couple every week. I think my sand sifting starfish are reproducing - or some type of huge mutant Asterina? <Looks like an Asterina, perhaps one of the other crew members will jump in with an ID.><<Is. RMF>> Thanks, Cassidy <MikeV>

Strange Calcium/Alk/PH levels? 7/5/09
WWM,
<Jason>
Thank you for taking the time to help me with an ongoing issue I have with my tank and strange readings I am getting.
<You're welcome.>
My tank is fairly new, it's only been running now for around 4 months. I test the day before every water
change and my Calcium is consistently 520+, my PH is 8.4 (towards the end of my light cycle) and my alkalinity measures between 9 - 10 DKH. I do not dose any calcium/Alk supplements, and I only dose SeaChem Marine Buffer (1/2 the recommended dosage) once every 4 days. I perform 5 gallon water
changes (29 gallon BioCube) every week. I use Coralife sea salt with a RO/DI unit in front of a Culligan water softener (uses sodium not potassium). I measured my RO/DI water only (no salt) and my Ca reading was between 0-20.
RO/DI with the salt added, the Ca levels are at 380. Thinking I may have had a bad test (API) I purchased a Salifert Calcium test, it gave me the same results. Again, thinking it was me not performing the tests
correctly, I took my water to two different LFS stores, they both came back with the same readings. I am using Aragonite sand from CaribSea, and I have all live rock (no human made rock). I have had levels 520+ since I started testing 2 months ago. Any ideas as to what is causing these high levels of calcium?
And any ideas as to what I can do to lower these levels?
<You did not indicate whether you have any calcium loving invertebrates in your tank. Calcium levels generally do not fall with nothing to absorb the calcium. Aragonite is actually calcium carbonate, and will help in keeping the calcium level up. You may want to read here.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm>
I really appreciate everything yall do for us reefers. The service yall provide makes it so much easier for people like me to get and stay in the hobby. Keep up the good work!!!
<Thank you. James (Salty Dog)>
Jason

Re: And Then There Were Six, LTA... Now, Ca/Alk ish f'  6/30/09
Hi Bob,
<Darryl>
The LTA seems to be getting better, well, not worse anyway...
Regarding my "bit too high" Ca levels. I went out and bought a KH test kit to answer your question. I hadn't been measuring Alk. previously.
It came in at 8 dKH, which according to the WWM Alk. FAQ is at the lower end of the acceptable range, which makes sense. So my question is, what should I do about it?
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm
and as much of the linked files above as it takes>
I currently rely on fortnightly 20%
water changes to maintain the water chemistry, without any supplementation. I use local tap water aged for two weeks in a plastic trash bin for two weeks - continuously stirred with a small powerhead.
Thus far, this has worked well. The readings I gave you haven't budged since the tank finished cycling and I'm not too keen on jumping on the supplement rollercoaster if I can avoid it.
<You very likely can... again, please just read>
Currently the only calcium consumers users are the coralline algae, 1 Euphyllia, 1 Faviidae, some hitchhiker fanworms, and some Clavularia. I've intentionally kept the system understocked as I'm new to the hobby, lazy, and want a nice, but relatively maintenance free system with some margin for error.
<Understood... and my focus as well>
The system is almost entirely diy. 50 gal display w/ 50+ lbs LR, 15 gallon sump. Flow is about 400 gph. Supply = 1" DIY PVC pipe siphon overflow,
<Mmmm>
Return = Calfo style closed loop manifold. I know I need a bigger siphon. It's huge pain to keep it balanced, fiddling w/ partial siphon makes me nervous... I like the horizontal overflow design but haven't been able to upgrade just yet as it necessitates a tedious breakdown to drill the tank. I'm currently planning to simply
build a larger-diameter overflow with the only other difference being a larger diameter sleeve over the siphon intake to get more water from the top.
The occupants include:
1 C. strigosus , 3 Chromis viridis, and the aforementioned M. doreensis.
+ incidentals
A few small patches of (growing) Porites. three or possibly four species of Zoanthid, M. sculptus (several), various fanworms, micro- Brittlestars, sponges, tunicates
+ pests
A. Majano, small Xanthidae, Bryopsis, Lobophora, some sort of (S)tomatopod, which is tiny and looks like Gonodactylellus affinis.
Thus far these guys haven't been too bad. The stoma whacks a crab every now and then but I didn't want those crabs anyway. The algae are kept in check with some very occasional yanking and low nutrient
levels from underfeeding, currently about 10-15 Spectrum pellets twice daily + some fine meaty goodness (mixed blended mussel/shrimp/etc ) for the LTA and Torch on Sunday. No Spectrum on Sunday since the fish clean up any scraps.
This stomatopod, I suppose he precludes the introduction of skunk cleaner shrimp?
<Would likely be consumed, yes>
I'd like to get one or two but I don't want them to get whacked. He's just a wee little thing, but he's wily and thus far evaded all attempts at capture.
Darryl
<Sounds/reads as a very nice system/project indeed... and with a bit of looking/seeing, perhaps changing salt mix brands... you will very likely be able to get your alkaline earth, biomineral ratio in enough balance. BobF>

Fun w/ Calc/Alk 6/30/09
Thanks Bob,
<Surely welcome Darryl>
Ok ok, RTFM it is then. <!> That's cool. Phew, that was a lot of reading.
I sorta get it, I think, though it's been a while since I've had chemistry 101. pKa and all that. So, I guess this is fairly common.
<Ah yes>
I'm using Red Sea Coral Pro salt mix, and I'm sort of stuck with it as it's the only salt mix my LFS seems to sell.
<Try mail-order... there are some deals about>
There's nothing in the FAQs mentioned about that specifically but I did see a lot of talk about fiddling w/ supplements to try to bring up alkalinity. Ok, I can go get some Kent buffer powder
<Look to SeaChem...>
and see if that works. But first a few observations. ( It's nice to use my ChemE degree from time to time. ;-)
<Dang!>
First I tested my tap water. It's soft as a baby's bottom, dKH was unmeasurable with my test kit ( < 1 dKH ) and the same with Ca ( < 20 mg/l ) but there's about 0.25 mg/l of PO4 and SiO was very high, off the charts. I'm hypothesizing that this is what's throwing off my mix.
<Could be>
Then I tested the aged mix. First, there's an off-white precipitate, so something's definitely up there. Calcium Phosphate and/or Silicate is most likely. So, drum roll please. PO4 had dropped to 0. Ah ha!
<There's a clue>
I didn't bother to test for SiO but presumably it's dropped a bit as well. I've measured it in the display and it's present, but at much lower concentrations (~ 2 mg/l). Though I don't clearly understand (yet) what the impact of these anions have on the mix but I can see how they might compete with the carbonates, though, by removing Ca from the mix
<Yes... this and Mg (which you should test for) and to a much smaller extent Sr...>
I'd expect it to have the opposite effect, high Alk, low calc, but I'm gonna run with it anyway. Besides, nobody seems to really understand seawater chemistry. ( A little rationalization's good for the soul. )
<Till it becomes too self-delusory... e.g., witness "U.S. Defense"... nothing defensive about traveling halfway around the world, murdering other countries' citizens... in the "cause" of "peace". Murder begets murder>
So here's what I tried. I added about 1/4 tsp of Sodium Bicarbonate to the water (12 gals), not the tank, just the premixed. Then measured it up again. dKH = 12, Ca more or less the same but I expect it will drop some, and the pH was unchanged.
<We'll see>
Now, I saw that NaHCO3 is generally not advised because it can radically increase the pH, but here it's just a bit of a tweak with no appreciable increase in pH. Do you think it's ok to continue down this road or am I just asking for trouble?
<There are better approaches... and likely none worth really pursuing, given your set-up, stock, intentions... Myself? I'd simply change salt brands, perhaps mix with mostly R.O. water if you make it at home>
I suppose RO/DI is an option
<Oh! Yes>
but at 25c a box. Bicarbonate sure is attractive.
<Am an old timey advocate>
I plan to test it again before I change the water, and have an unadulterated barrel of water in the wings in case its radically off.
Darryl
<Real good. BobF>

Re: Clumping sand, calcium deposits everywhere... corr. to resp.   6/13/09
Hi Mr. Fenner,
I was hoping it would be you responding! Thanks so much for investing your time and insight into other peoples complex issues.
<Welcome>
Firstly, you mentioned a DKH around 12 or just under 5 mEq/l was near precipitation level.
<Yes... if coupled with high/er biomineral (Ca and Mg mostly)  concentration/s>
What is a more ideal alkalinity?
<Mmmm... 9 to 12 dKH or 3 to 5 mEq/L at the most on the high ends>
I though between 4 and 5 mEq/l was kind of akin to that magical 450 ppm calcium that everyone wants, and no one gets.
<This is too much Ca... I would shoot for about 400, and be satisfied with 350>
Secondly, I ran all the tests, and the only real anomaly was that the reactor media instigated an alkalinity of 24 (DKH) within its test cup.
Otherwise the tank water, and cupped water with tank sand and refugium sand, separately, all tested relatively the same. Ph of 8.3, calcium levels have dropped to between 350 and 370, and the alkalinity was running between 12 and 14 DKH.
<So?>
So, it appears the calcium reactor is not tuned very well.
<Do see WWM re media choices here>
I admit that there is no Ph controller, just a bubble counter and the effluent is measured with a ph probe monthly and adjusted from there (its usually pretty close to 6.5). The drip rate is probably a very fast broken drip. We do go through media at a faster than normal rate. I bought the media second hand, it was a bulk bag, at least 30 pounds.
<Oh! Could likely be "it" here>
It was unmarked, but supposedly it was Caribsea (looked like it) and was bought from his personal friend, the owner of JL aquatics. We have pretty well finished the bag now (over perhaps two years), maybe I should switch to the larger chunk media?
<Another brand... try Knop's Korallith for a while...>
BTW it is a precision marine, I believe the model is CR 422, it's a popular model and I use it with success elsewhere.
I hate to ask for advice with a calcium reactor but I don't really know how to better tune this thing. Also, how the heck am I going to reverse the trend of sand clumping?
<Mmm, different/better media, higher effluent pH (6.8), slower drip rate...>
And...how to do all this without shocking tank inhabitants (full reef, shrimp, giant clam, you name it)?
<Slow change...>
Lastly, if you ever need a set of eyes or ears in Toronto, let me know.
Thanks again,
Kev
<Thank you, BobF>

Alk/Mg/CA Questions: When the quest to hit a specific number has you running in circles. 5/28/2009
Hello Crew...
<Hi Cassidy.>
I've been trying to figure out what exactly is going on in my 240G reef tank with the ionic balance.
<OK>
To summarize - I had hired a company to setup a fish tank; it turned out to be a reef tank. I knew nothing about it what so ever. I took care of it personally for the first 3.5 months, then hired several company to perform maintenance. They started dosing chemicals for ca, mg, ph, trace, etc. .
<Most reef tanks do need supplementation. That is largely based upon what is in the tank.>
Ever since then things have not been where they should be.
<Things aren't looking healthy? Too much algae growth?>
I have since fired them and started to manage it myself again. I read and read and read but cannot figure out what's going on.
<You are trying to hit theoretical 'perfect' numbers, and all too quickly discovering how hard it is. Remember, stability in a given value, even if it is slightly low, is much better than fighting to hit a perfect value. That is why most values for marine tanks have ranges rather than absolute values.>
Tank Specs are:
240G
55G Sump
4 x 250W MH 20000K
ASM G3 Skimmer
2X72" Actinic
2x 1/3" HP Chillers
Phosban Reactor
Berlin Style / Closed Loop System
Photo Period is about 8 Hrs for MH and 2 hours before and after with actinic.
40G water changes are performed weekly.
All filters/pads/socks are cleaned every 3-4 days.
Carbon/Phosban is changed monthly.
<Sounds like a nice setup.>
Water Conditions are:
CA: 500ppm <Ragged edge of high>
DKH: 7.5-8 <Fine>
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Phosphate: .01-.03 <A little high.>
PH: 8.3-8.55 <Fine>
Nitrate: 10 ppm <OK>
Magnesium: 1100ppm <A bit low given the calcium level.>
SG: 1.25-1.26 <Very good>
Temp is constant at 77-78° <Very good>
My CA is always decent; around 420-480 ppm.
<That is fine, realize that as a general rule, the higher your calcium, the lower your alkalinity is going to be.>
However, DKH always drops rapidly after water changes/buffer to increase ALK.
<It drops to what?>
PH is constant around 8.3 evening / 8.45 day time. In an effort to combat the low ALK I purchased a Dual Chamber "Marine Technical Concepts" MTC PROCAL Reactor. Was a breeze to setup and running fine. But the ALK is still low.. 7.5-8 without dosing any buffer.
<You added a calcium reactor,. Adding calcium will drive your alkalinity down.. In either case, a dKH of 7.5 - 8 is fine as long as it is stable. Do read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm >
My calcium continues to climb and it was at 500ppm last night.
<Turn the reactor off, stop adding calcium.>
I am concerned that this is too concentrated and I am worried about the 'snowstorm' effect.
<I would be too.>
My initial though was that the MG was low and it is at 1100.
<It is low - generally, you want the magnesium to be at three times the calcium level, so you would want a calcium level of at least 1350 This is easily done by adding simple Epsom salts.>
I performed a large water change 50% to try and 'reset' the balance. My MG is still low at 1100 so I added some liquid SeaChem Aqua Vitro Ions and it has not raised the MG one bit. I use Sea Chem Reef Salt (not sure if that matters). I have a 1.5-2" fine sugar sized sand bed. I am not sure if its worth noting that there has been a explosive growth of coralline algae since the CA Reactor was added.
<Stop adding supplements, turn off the calcium reactor. Add some Epsom salts to get the magnesium levels up.. Continue with normal water changes. Measure your alkalinity daily to see what it is doing. If it starts going under 7, add a tablespoon or two of plain old baking soda. Don't add anything else for a week.>
I am worried the CA is too high.. is this going to have a negative effect on my corals/inverts?
<Only if you get a 'snowstorm'>
Is there any simple way of getting the DKH up and keeping it where it should be?
<Again, 7 - 8 is fine as long as it is stable Trying to hit 'exact' numbers will have you running in circles adding this and dosing that.>
My tank is heavily stocked - is it at all possible they are making use of the carbonate and magnesium and not using the calcium consistently? Its my understanding that all these elements work in synergy with each other and should be used proportionately by the livestock.
<They do, but you are overdosing on calcium>
Any insight into this would be greatly appreciated - I'm ready to pull my hair out. And I've been through three maintenance companies that have not been helpful at all.
<My advice is very simple. Stop adding things to the water and turn your reactor off. Correct your deficiency in magnesium using nothing but a tablespoon or two of plain Epsom salt, Test your water daily to get a read on what it is doing. If you see the alkalinity dropping below 7, add nothing but plain baking soda. Add nothing to your change water other than salt mix. After a week to 10 days, see where you are in regards to calcium\alkalinity\magnesium>
Also on a side note - I have an issue with feather dusters.. they are multiplying by the thousands.
<Must be the tiny feather dusters>
I know they are beneficial but when they get to this point they are not very easy on the eyes. Is there any method to decrease their growth?
<They are breeding because you have an excess of nutrients in the tank (Nitrate and phosphate). Try adding some algae to your sump to help with the nutrient control. The feather dusters will decrease in time. Remember, NOTHING good happens quickly in a reef tank.>
Or do people want these? More than happy to collect them and give away.
<You could try a local pet store.>
Thanks again and sorry for the looooong email,
<My pleasure, do write back after a week with the readings. From there, we can see where your system sits and what it needs.>
Cassidy
<MikeV>

Re: Alk/Mg/CA Questions: When the quest to hit a specific number has you running in circles. 5/29/2009
Mike,
<Hi Cassidy>
The DKH will drop and drop...
<Add baking soda as necessary to buffer it back up. Alkalinity will continue to drop as long as the calcium is high. Once you get your calcium down into the mid 400 range, the alkalinity should stabilize.>
I have yet to let it get down past 5 but each day it will drop a point or two and doesn't seem like its going to stop.
<May want to add more substrate to help buffer the system too.>
I will follow through with your advice with Epsom salt and baking soda.
<Good, add the Epsom salt now, that will 'unlock' the calcium that is in the tank so your corals can use it. Add baking soda only as needed to keep your alkalinity up. Do keep up with your regular water changes.>
You were not quite clear about the calcium reactor. I know I turn it off - but after 10 days if things return to normal shall I turn it back on and turn it on very very slowly to see what happens?
<That will depend on what the levels are and what is in your tank; do write back then. As the saying goes, "let's see where we are before we figure out where we are going.">
I know my levels were way off before the ca reactor and was hoping that would be the end all - of it. Again thanks for the advice!
<My pleasure, again, do write back, and do test your water daily.>
Thank You,
Cassidy
<MikeV>

Re: Alk/Mg/CA Questions: 6/4/2009
Mike,
<Hi Cassidy>
I have followed your advice. My levels are: Ca 460, Mg 1250, DKH 8.
<Ahh, much better.>
I've had to add 1 tbs of baking soda every day or two to keep it there.
<Not surprised, you should have to add it less and less as the calcium level dropped.>
I have also had to add about 1/4 cup of Epsom salt to get my mg up (not all at once of course). I think they are where they should be now.
<All of your readings are good.>
Would it be wise to start the CA reactor up again - very slowly and gradually
of course.
<Yes, very slowly, and keep monitoring your levels, it may take some time for everything to get into balance. If your calcium levels start skyrocketing again, turn the reactor off. We need to find the balance between what your tank is using as opposed to what is being introduced.>
Its my understanding that the Ca reactor should also add the amount of mg that I need. Is this correct?
<Between that and regular water changes, you should be fine.>
I have never really tested the effluent output of the reactor for MG - and since its off I can't now.
<Do monitor the Mg levels and supplement if necessary.>
I've noticed that much of my coralline algae is bleaching out now. Rather rapidly. I'm assuming it will come back when the reactor goes back on.
<Some will come back, the algae growth was pushed by the high calcium levels>
How should I proceed to keep things stable?
<Turn your reactor back on, very slowly and continue to monitor your levels. What you are aiming for is a consistent level of calcium in the tank. Adjust your calcium reactor flow as necessary to sustain it.>
Thanks,
<My Pleasure.>
Cassidy
<MikeV>

High PH High Alk Low Calcium-   5/10/09
Hi, this is a great site with a lot of information. I read through the FAQ section regarding Calcium and Alk and I believe I have an idea about what is going on with my tank, but wanted to find out your opinion. I have a 90 gallon with a 30 gallon sump with about 110 lbs of live rock and I use Oceanic Salt Mix. I recently changed out my substrate in the main tank about a 1 1/2 weeks ago to Bio-Activ Live Aragonite sand from play sand, about 2 inches of sand. Ever since the change, my Ph and Alk have been high and my calcium level is low. Current readings are PH 8.5-8.6, Calcium 260 ppm, Alk 13 dKH. Prior to the change my Alk was always about 7-8 dKH, Calcium 400-450, and PH 8.1. I haven't noticed any affect on my fish and invertebrates, but have noticed my corals are not opening up completely like they did before.
<I'll bet>
If I try adding calcium, it does not increase and I get a white build-up on my powerheads and glass (I've reached saturation). I did a 20 gallon water change 2 days ago with no change to the parameters. Is the change in Ph, Alk, and Calcium due to the new substrate?
<Very likely so; yes>
What can I do to fix the problem?
<... lower your alkalinity... The high carbonate is precipitating the biomineral>
If there is nothing I can do , how long will it take for this to fix itself? Thanks in advance
Andrea Walton
<Ahh! Andrea, "woman of the sea"... Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm
and the linked files above, particularly "troubles/hooting"... You may have to remove, replace the substrate... Bob Fenner>

pH/Kalkwasser drip 4/7/09 Understanding Calcium/Alkalinity Crew: <Doug> I have a two hundred gallon marine tank with mostly rock and sand up stairs it has a 75 gallon sump down stairs. Sitting on top of the tank are 3x150 10K HQI MH and 4 X96W 03 actinic CF. Lights are on 7 hours a day. I have a 5,000 gallon per hour pump with 15 feet of head to the tank. The tank has 6 fish and the largest is a Yellow Tang and a total of 13 other small inhabitants made up of soft and hard corals and a 6 inch long clam. The water returns in a 3 inch pipe to a 4 foot high tower in back of the 75 gallon sump with a diffuser panel at the top and three 5 gallon buckets of live rock rubble above the water line in the tower. Below the water under the tower another 100 lbs of live rock. A Protein skimmer near the sump has ozone and a new calcium reactor (not working yet) in the sump. A 1/3 hp chiller and water stays around 78 degrees. Water change is 20 gallons twice a week with RO/DI water and Corallife salt. Water is aged with air and circulation on both fresh and salt holding tanks. Salt water is buffered to 8.3 PH in holding tank. My system info on the control and testing this morning reads Temp 77.8 PH 8.19 now, but I buffered this morning and it rose a little. I don't want to raise it too much. ORP 381 DO 6.0 Conductivity 54 Salinity 35 PPT Calcium 360 after buffering this morning KH 14 Phosphate 0 Nitrate ion 0ppm About 90% saturation. One of the concerns I have is the PH is always falling to 8.10 during the day <Is normal for a slight drop in pH during the day.> and calcium always goes down as low as 320 overnight. I would need to drip buffer pH and calcium all the time to keep up and I think this will cause a ping pong problem. <A high dKH such as yours (14) can cause calcium to precipitate. I'd keep this around 8 or 9.> I got a new calcium reactor but its not working correctly yet. I had the pH built up slowly to 8.3 last night and calcium to 400. I tried for the first time a Kalkwasser drip. I used 1 tsp in a gallon of RO/DI water after lights out. This morning the pH was again was 8.16 and the calcium was 360. I guess I need to try two tsp tonight after buffering everything back up to STDs? I know I got to get the reactor working! But I still wonder what is driving the pH down and the calcium without a heavy load of fish and other items in the tank. Maybe the pH buffering is driving the calcium down and dKH high. <Exactly. Do read here my friend. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm> Should I just get the dKH and calcium right and let the pH settle where it wants to over 8.0? <Just get the dKH down to 8 or 9 and you shouldn't see the calcium swing as much. Are you keeping your magnesium levels up? Is a major element of seawater and helps corals to absorb the calcium.> Thanks for your time. <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Doug pH/Kalkwasser drip query – 04/07/09 Bob, There are two photos included with the query. I couldn't open either of them. James <Strange... I could/can... maybe you have some sort of blocking software at work on your machine that won't allow... B>  Maybe, next time that happens I'm going to disable the Norton software and see what happens. J <Ok!>

Calcium And Alkalinity 3/16/09
Hello,
<Hi John>
I'm having some troubles with alkalinity/calcium and from my readings on WWM I'm not alone. Most of the posts I've come across though are low calcium + high alkalinity or someone trying to get high calcium and high alkalinity (ie. 200 marbles...), or someone trying to use 5 or 6 cross branded supplements, etc...
After reading Anthony's book, Bob's book, and several other books from the library I have a BASIC, I repeat - BASIC understanding, but still need some help and/or re-assurance.
My Ammonia, Phosphates, Nitrite, Nitrate are zero according to my API Master Reef Test Kit. Phosphate is the hardest color scheme and I very highly doubt it's really zero but it's the lowest bar on the color chart.
I tested for calcium and it was 380 and the Alk was 10.5, so I tried using B-Ionic 2 part. Knowing what I know now this was probably a mistake since the Alk was already at or above ideal and 380 is not too bad.
<In my opinion, 10.5 is high. I much prefer 7.5 to 8.5.>
After about a week of mixing in 10 ml per day in the a.m.; I have a 65 gal w/25-30 gal sump, skimmer, refugium - w/Chaeto, my Alk had gone up to between 12 and 13 and calcium at 400. BTW, I change 20% water weekly w/standard IO.
Can I add one or two doses of just the calcium part of B-ionic? 5-10 ml per day, to gingerly bring the Alk down to 10-11 and keep the calcium around 400 until things get re-balanced?
<This is exactly what I do not like about the two part mixes, rarely produces a nice balance.
I would not add any more of the alkalinity buffer, let's get the dKH down around 8. Consider switching
to separate supplements rather than two parters, I believe you will be much better off.>
Thanks as usual for any help.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Re Calcium And Alkalinity 3/16/09
James's comment:
<This is exactly what I do not like about the two part mixes, rarely produces a nice balance.
I would not add any more of the alkalinity buffer, let's get the dKH down around 8.....>
I'm thinking about using the B-Ionic separately until it's gone now that I have a better understanding of how cal/Alk are related.
<Certainly, I did not mean to throw them out, just switch when you run out.
I'd post a link for you to read but cannot get the Wet Web Media site to come up for some reason. Go to www.wetwebmedia.com and Google search calcium and alkalinity, then choose "Understanding
Calcium And Alkalinity".>
Long term though what do you recommend for calcium and alkalinity as separate supplements? It looks like the B-Ionic does have some trace elements as well, Iodine, Strontium, etc.. I'd prefer as few bottles as
possible, as with the water changes I'm doing I don't see my system getting too out of whack ( knock on wood). I can foresee adding very small amounts just to keep things optimal.
<A few options here. Tropic Marin has a product called Alca-Balance, which is geared at keeping calcium levels up and maintaining a lower but safe dKH (7 to 9 dKH) all under one cap. See here on this product. http://www.tropic-marin.com/web/english/homepage.html
I haven't used the product so I cannot attest to it's performance, but Tropic Marin is known for quality products.
Presently, I use Seachem Reef Advantage Calcium which includes magnesium and strontium. I might add that it will not maintain a 1280ppm level of magnesium. At least it doesn't in my system. For buffer, the Seachem Reef Builder.
I also dose magnesium with Tropic Marin Bio-Magnesium, I do like that product. My iodine supplement is Lugol's solution which I can get at the drug store; one drop per 10 gallons of water weekly. I do a 10% weekly water change using Tropic Marin salt, and dose no other supplements.>
Thanks again!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Rebalancing Calc/Alk – 02/28/09
I'm sure you've answered this before, but I haven't found it.
<<Okay>>
My question is: having been on vacation for 2 weeks and not adding the 2 part supplement (I use B-Ionic), my calcium is at 430 and alkalinity is around 7 dKH. Not bad,
<<Agreed>>
but I'm surprised my calcium did not go down over this time as I have lots of SPS corals in my tank.
<<Mmm…perhaps growth/bio-mineral uptake was merely slow during this period>>
When I left, the calcium was about 440 and the alkalinity about 11. I left them high because I knew I would be unable to dose over the two weeks and could not expect my house sitter to handle it.
<<I see…not ready for that Calcium Reactor yet, eh?>>
Anyway, I presume I should try to raise the dKH some.
<<To about 8 or a little more should do>>
Should I do this by using only the Alkalinity part?
<<You can>>
Or should I use baking soda to give it more of a 'jolt'?
<<Hmm, not sure what you mean by “jolt”…but if pH is an issue/is already high (8.3 >), the Sodium Bicarbonate will not impact re and thus may prove the better choice>>
Eric
<<Simple water changes with a properly prepared and aged quality salt mix are usually the best (and most beneficial) method for getting water chemistry back in balance…but either of your listed options will do what you ask here. Regards, Eric Russell>>

Miracle Mud And C-Balance Not Balanced 2/16/09 ID Of Critters On Live Rock Hey guys, <Hello Steven> I have a few questions for you and I would also like you to ID something in my tank. Let me give you a tiny bit of background before I get started. I have a 55 gallon reef right now and I would like to upgrade to a 200 gallon reef when I move out :) . I am making some changes in my 55 gallon reef to test out some new things before I implement them on a larger scale. Right now I use the Berlin method of filtration with an AquaC Remora Pro for skimming, RowaPhos to remove the extra phosphates, and C-Balance to keep the calcium and alkalinity in check. In my new tank I would like to try to keep the maintenance cost down so I figured why not try out for Miracle Mud…I figured I could save some money on C-balance and maybe not even use a calcium reactor. Here is the problem: I put the Miracle Mud in the Aquafuge with some Chaeto and reduced the amount of C-balance that I added by around half. The calcium level is going up but the alkalinity is going down. My calcium is around 470 and the alkalinity is around 2.8 mEq/L. I called Ecosystem and they said that the mud won't boost the alkalinity as much as the calcium. I called Two Little Fishes and asked them if I could use more of part B to balance things out and they told me never to do that. They told me to always add equal amounts of part A and B. I have been using some reef buffer by Seachem to keep the alkalinity raised instead. Is this a viable long term solution? Will I end up problems down the line using the combination of C-balance, Miracle Mud, and Reef Buffer? <This is one of the reasons I do not like using Part A/B products. I'm for dosing a la carte, supplement individually when required. Your 2.8meq/L reading is just fine.> Next Question... I am using the Aquafuge medium with a 404 mini pump (for additional flow) and the 24 watt light that it comes with. Even with the extra flow from the 404 mini I am still having problems with algae covering the mud and Chaeto. It is getting so annoying that I am thinking of selling the fuge and going back to using C-balance exclusively. <The mud isn't what is causing the algae problem, it is excessive nutrients in the water. I've used the Ecosystem Fuge and I did not have any algae problems due to the Miracle Mud.> I sent you a picture of the Aquafuge so you can get an idea of my setup. Did I put too much Chaeto in the Aquafuge? <I think so, half of that would be good. You may want to read the FAQ's here on Miracle Mud filtration. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mudfiltrfaqs.htm> Should I add another mini pump to get some more flow? I am not really happy with this setup-up compared to the old method of just adding C-balance. Can you let me know where I went wrong? I don't want to have problems like this in my new setup. <You never mentioned nitrate levels, stocking levels...what are they?> Now I have one more question. I found a website that sells a 3 part Calcium-Alkalinity dosing product that is really really cheap. I could use it in the 200 gallon aquarium without worries that it will get excessively expensive. Can you let me know if it is a reputable brand? I can get 10 gallons of each part for 90 bucks. http://www.tbaquatics.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=100 <I've never heard of it. Try posting this on one of the reef forums. On another note, I'm not a big fan of adding calcium and buffer simultaneously. Is better to dose on separate days.> If this is the same as C-balance then it's a great deal. <Can't help you much here, best to post. I prefer to use products like Seachem, Tropic Marin, etc, and buy in the larger sizes which makes it more economical to use.> Last thing I promise. There are two things in my tank I was hoping you could ID for me. I have some sponge looking things that are growing in low light areas of the tank and also little white circles that are appearing my rocks. I have included pictures. <Pictures are too blurry, but I’m thinking they are a sponge of some type.> Thanks! <You’re welcome. James (Salty Dog) Steve

Calcium, Magnesium, Alkalinity and PH 1/29/09
Hi Crew,
<Hello Ranjith>
I understand that maintaining high ALK and CA can be difficult and even counter productive.
<Yes, high dKH levels tend to keep calcium ions from rising.>
I have a 120 gal reef and have the following parameters
* Alk - 3.5+ Meq/L
* CA - 300ppm to 320ppm
* PH - 8.4 (measured close to lights out so is the high point)
* MG - 1200ppm
I can't seem to reach CA levels of 350 or more (am sure you are going say high Alk is the problem).
<Has much to do with it.>
It started with 250ppm a few weeks ago.
I started with Tropic Marine bio calcium but quickly realized this will cost way too much to push 120 gal up by 100ppm.
So I shifted to Calcium Hydroxide.
I dripped initially using 2 teaspoons in 1 gal of water to get the water o 800ppm and then dripped the clear liquid only. This was done once at night and once in the early morning 2 hours before lights come on.
The product I use is from Merck "http://www.merck-chemicals.com/india/" (is this a known chemical company?).
<No idea.>
It is the GR grade which is analysis grade (better grade I presume?)
<Likely as good a grade as you would get from a LFS.>
I was able to raise CA from 250 to 300ppm in 2 weeks time.
I was not getting any rise after 300 so I shifted to the slurry method.
I dose using the slurry method. Basically, mixing half teaspoon in approx 1 liter of water and pouring this into the skimmer outlet in cup size amounts. I wait a few seconds in between each cup sized addition for the water to be clear in the area I pour into.
Once a week I add 10 spoons (50 Gm.s) of tropic Marine bio calcium (calculated as per what is given on the bottle)
This has over last 3-4 days raised CA to 320ppm (20ppm rise). I realize due to my Alk being high my CA might be getting precipitated.
<The Germans are keeping dKH levels at 5-6 dKH in that regard (personal conversation with Lou Ekus of Tropic Marin).>
I have the following livestock one moon coral, 1 leather finger, 2 Zoanthid colonies, 2 Palythoa colonies.
An 8" Volitans Lionfish and a 4" Skunk Clown.
Layer on top of Coralline (pink, purple and green) are taking off well on the live rocks and even covered the PVC framework.
It however grows better in the lower regions of the tank.
I have tested with a brand new Elos test kit for CA and the possibility of it being out of whack are pretty low right?
<I'd say pretty low, but how about your dKH test kit, is it reading correctly?
Most calcium test kits require using distilled/RO water as the dilution base for accurate
readings. Does your test kit state this?>
Should I continue to add Kalk slurry, or use calcium chloride to reach the range ?
<Calcium chloride is good for quickly raising calcium levels but not recommended for long term use. Stay with what is working for you.>
Can you tell me if I should just sight tight and relax or continue the efforts to reach a CA of 350+?
<Seems to me like we have been through this a couple of weeks ago. If it were me, I'd discontinue using any buffers. Let the dKH drop to 5-6, see if there is a noticeable improvement in raising your calcium level.>
Cheers
<Good day to you. James (Salty Dog)>
Ranjith

Re: Calcium/Alkalinity 1/30/09
Hi James
<Hello Ranjith>
Nope this is the first time I wrote regarding calcium.
<OK, no problem.>
I was unaware of levels and thus happy as I had never tested before :)
I use a RedSea kit for Alk. It seems to be pretty correct but may not be very accurate.
<Mmm, pretty correct, buy may not be very accurate?>
The Elos kit is not needing any distilled or RO water. Just uses tank water directly.
<That's nice.>
I have stopped adding buffers except calk since I started it as calk is indirectly supposed to help keep Alk from going down.
Are you saying I should stop adding calk as well till the alkalinity reaches 5ish?
<No, just the buffer. Your tank is lightly stocked so it may take some time for the dKH to come down.
Comparatively speaking, you just have less money in the bank. But since you are a conservative spender,
the money is not going to be taken out too often. Mmm, wait a minute, you mentioned an 8" Lionfish,
never mentioned what size tank you have or your filtration system makeup.>
Cheers
<Good day. James (Salty Dog)>
Ranjith

Re: Calcium/Alkalinity 1/30/09
Hi James
<I feel slighted. You spell your name with a capital "R" but mine in small case:)>
The tank is 120 gal with 160pounds premium live rock.
Runs a EV180 (under powered pump currently)
5" DSB
<A good choice in skimmers.>
Rare water changes sadly.
<Yes, very sad. James (Salty Dog)>
Cheers
Ranjith

Re: Calcium/Alkalinity 1/31/09
Hi James,
Apologise for the lowercase in your name.
<Hey, was just a bit of humor on my part, no offense at all.>
Am doing this from a handheld so might have overlooked.
My name on the other hand is set in a signature so came correctly :)
Will read the response you sent now that I have corrected the language mistake :)
Cheers
<James (Salty Dog)>
Ranjith

Calcium/Alkalinity... imbalance  12/5/08
Hello all
<Hiya>
I have any issue with raising my Ca levels above 250. My PH is at 8.5, and my Alk levels are at 14Dkh.?
<The high dKH is preventing you from raising your calcium level.>
I think that if I add Kent Turbo Calcium to my top off RO water, my Ca levels should go up while my Alk drops a bit. Is that correct?
<Nope. The only product I know of that will raise calcium and lower dKH is Tropic Marin's Alca Balance.>
I would add the granules to the water I use to compensate for evaporation (about 1 gallon a day). If this is correct when should I see a noticeable difference when I test? Thanks in advance. This relationship in water chemistry can be kinda confusing...
<Yes, and is why you need to read here.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm>
Thanks and Happy Holidays
<You're welcome and ditto to you. James (Salty Dog)>

Re: Calcium/Alkalinity 12/8/08
James,
<Hello>
Thanks for your reply.
<Welcome.>
I have read the attached article and have learned a lot. I think I will do a couple of water changes before I add anything else to my system.
<Good. James (Salty Dog)>
See ya

Supplement Juggling Act...Igor Lives... Ca, Mg and dKH 12/3/08
Hi there,
<Hello Richard>
First, the problem (or at least what lead me to conduct some tests). My Acros and Montiporas look bleached or all brown (as opposed to individual colours) but polyp extension is good. Corals showed some growth in first 2 months in my tank, but over last 2 months there has been almost none.
Parameters, SG 1.024, temperature is 24-26C, ammonia=0, nitrite=0, nitrate=0, phosphate=0. I know you will say these are probably being consumed at source so not strictly zero but I have focused on nitrogen cycle items being the cause of discolouration to the detriment of other tests and herein I think may lie the problem?
<Mmm, I wouldn't look here.>
Upon deciding to test more widely, I have found that magnesium was approx 800 ppm/l, calcium was 320 ppm/l and alkalinity/carbonate hardness was around 20dKH.
<With magnesium at 800ppm, your corals are only able to absorb 62% of the calcium available which in turn means at a calcium level of 320ppm, only 198ppm is available to the corals. Magnesium must be kept close to 1280ppm for the measured calcium to be 100% available for the corals. The high dKH is also hurting you in this regard and a dKH of 8 would be a good target goal. The Europeans are now striving to keep dKH levels as low as 7dkH giving better dKH, calcium, and magnesium balance.
(re phone conversation with Lou Ekus of Tropic Marin)>
As mentioned above, these readings have lead me to move away from suspecting nitrates/phosphates as a problem and to now suspect the problem is with these readings.
<Absolutely!>
Since these readings, I have added magnesium and have managed to get this level up to around 1150 ppm. It seems difficult to go beyond this and I don't want to start dumping too many supplements in the tank.
<Getting the dKH back to normal would be my first concern.>
 I am now trying to figure out how to raise the calcium and lower the dKH level and would appreciate your comments regarding:-
<Here is a good place to start.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm>
1) addition of small amounts of seltzer. Is this method a mad scientist approach or is it OK?
<Mad scientist>
I tried it and the dKH went down to around 8dKH after adding a few fluid ounces, which really surprised me. I can only assume the test kit is working but I worry about such a large swing in what was a very short time.
<Quite possible the seltzer could have had an effect on your reading. Did you check it again the following
day?>
2) Whilst the dKH was down to 8ppm, I started adding small amounts of Kalkwasser and bio calcium. Although the calcium level rose to maybe 340 ppm, the dKH level has also risen to around 18dKH again.
<In your particular case, I wouldn't be using Kalkwasser because of what it can do to elevate dKH levels.>
3) How much Kalk should be added and how? I don't have a Kalk reactor and I used to mix with some vinegar and add around 1/2 teaspoon dissolved in vinegar and then diluted in 5 litres of water.
<No more vinegar, unless you understand what your doing and why, stop adding supplements such as this and seltzer.
You are likely to create more problems.>
I would then add this manually during the evening in small amounts. I am starting to wonder if this was excessive and that my corals (all small frags) never took up this Kalkwasser and that I slowly but surely ended up raising carbonate levels by blindly and continuously adding Kalkwasser?
<As I stated above, the corals cannot absorb all the calcium available unless magnesium is at the proper level.>
I am now loathe to keep trying to balance this out with supplements/more Kalk as it seems like things will just escalate into a supplement 'arms race.' Should I try partial water changes? Tank is around 260 lites and I was thinking of 15-20 litre water changes every day for maybe a week or so.
<I would go this route, no more supplements and change 10% of the water every other day. Monitor calcium, magnesium, pH, and dKH daily and keep a record of such. Use a salt rich in calcium and magnesium such as Reef Crystals or Tropic Marin. I've been using Tropic Marin and am very pleased with the product. My second choice would be Reef Crystals. Read the link and related articles/FAQ's I've pasted above. Do get back with me in a week or so replying to this entire email along with your test results. James (Salty Dog)>
Richard

Re: Supplement Juggling Act 12/10/08
Hi James,
<Hello Richard>
Thought I would post an update.
<Ah, good.>
I have made 3 partial water changes of around 80 litres during the week. System volume is around the 240 mark, so this is a 33% water change.
I haven't re-tested magnesium yet but dKH is down to 14 and calcium is now hovering around the 400ppm/l.
<Getting better now, isn't it?>
I will try and bring the dKH down further with more water changes over the next week.
<Great.>
I have been using regular Instant Ocean as I live on small island with very little choice for aquatic products. However, the only marine LFS does now have some D & D H20 pro marine salt, which is more inclined towards reef setups?
<Might want to try some, evaluate, compare to IO.>
One final question, a few local reefers I have spoken to recently have told me to stop wasting money on salt and just head down to the Ocean and collect the real instant NSW. One in particular has told me he has used NSW for several years, with no problems re waterborne parasites, diseases etc. Would you recommend this and would you treat this water (UV sterilize) before use?
<Mmm, Richard, do read here, will be much more informative than what I have the time
to state here. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/seawater.htm
James (Salty Dog)>
Richard

Liquid Calcium and Alkalinity – 04/02/08
Hello,
<<Hi there>>
Well, I can now personally attest to the drawbacks of liquid calcium?
<<Oh?>>
After maintaining a dKH of 10 for months, I now can't get it over 7 dKH after using liquid calcium (calcium chloride) for months.
<<Ah, I see…the buildup of Chloride ions have thrown your water chemistry “out of balance”…as you seem to be aware>>
It appears the chloride ions have run amuck.
<<Indeed>>
Any idea how to get the dKH back up to 10 or so?
<<Mmm, yes…several large water changes should make a difference as you need to remove/dilute the Chloride ions in the system>>
I've added Seachem alkalinity buffer, but it's not helping much before the pH gets too high (8.5).
<<And the “opposite” is usually the case with this product…evidence of the high Chloride residual possibly>>
Is a dKH of 7 bad in a reef aquarium?
<<It’s not “bad”…but 8 dKH or higher is preferred>>
All inhabitants are fine, but coralline growth has slowed.
<<No need for panic at this point... Do the water changes and conditions should improve/balance should return. Then, research some alternate methods for Calcium supplementation. Calcium Chloride is fine for the “occasional adjustment,” but really should be avoided for “continuous and frequent” use>>
Thanks,
Greg
<<Happy to share. EricR>>

Ugh, These Blasted Test Kits!...And Maybe A Little Kalkwasser Seesaw Effect? – 03/18/08
Yep, admittedly I fell prey to bad test kits, first with alkalinity and then with magnesium.
<<Very common, in my opinion>>
Here is my issue, 1000 gallon system, my reactor used to be able to maintain Alk and calc at appropriate levels, the test kit I was using (Red Sea as I couldn’t get Salifert at the time)
<<Do try Seachem’s line of test kits…good quality for value>>
for magnesium was reading 1200 ppm. Little did I know it was below that by 200ppm per my Elos kit,
<<I’m not familiar with this brand/manufacturer…though I do seem to recall favorable comments from Bob re>>
and I was using Kalk which was eroding it further.
<<Mmm, yes…I’m not absolutely certain of the science behind it, but I believe it is something to do with the addition of Kalkwasser increasing the precipitation nuclei of the water column, thus promoting the disproportionate loss of Magnesium>>
Needless to say I fell into this desperate addition of varying buffers to maintain Alk and calcium until magnesium finally hit 1300+ (I'd like to stabilize it at 1400, I’m running Zeo Mag in my reactor and it’s putting out 1350).
<<I think it likely the reactors and the Kalkwasser additions are battling each other…probably best to discontinue the latter>>
So, long story short, tested my levels last night, Mag 1300, Alk 8, CA 400. My reactor ran all day, is well tuned in with a pH of 6.5 and Alk output off the scale. I dosed Kalk for a while today to raise pH as it was floating around 8.1 and I wanted to get it higher (dripping maybe 20 drips per minute, in a 1000 gal system I thought it was just about right). Tested Alk tonight and it was 7, CA 360 and Mag 1200!
<<Refer to my previous statement re the Kalkwasser use>>
I do have a little detritus but not a big buildup. I don’t understand why I can’t nail down solid levels. I increased the CA reactor output and it’s a steady stream, but I am really wondering at this point if I am not best off adding another CA reactor.
<<This would be preferable to the Kalkwasser additions>>
I do have heavy SPS but I can’t believe they are sucking that much calcium.
<<If exhibiting heavy or even just “good” growth their demand can be considerable>>
I am beginning to wonder if I am not in some type of runaway supplement nightmare
<<…yes>>
(I add all according to directions), but the sheer fact that Mag fell by 100 in a day (per my Elos test), indicates to me stop dripping Kalk, use Seachem’s buffer for pH if need be, and dose mg according to directions until it stabilizes.
<<Sounds like a plan>>
I don’t have any nutrient sinks that I know of (only DSB is a DSB 30 gal trash but it has no detritus in it).
Any help is greatly appreciated!
<<Stopping the Kalkwasser dosing and stepping-up the Calcium reactor(s) should make a dif…oh!..as well as a large water change to help bring all back in “balance.” Regards, EricR>>

Water Chemistry Help! Ca/Alk... 3/9/08
Hey Crew,
<Hello.>
We are having problems with our water chemistry and are not sure how to fix it...seems we're just running in circles!
<Happens at times.>
Anyways....our dKH is at 17,
<Too high, as you likely know.>
our ph is at 8.1, calcium is at 320ppm, nitrate is at 15, 0 phosphates, 0ammonia, 0nitrite.... we have been trying to raise our calcium forever and have had no success. We have a 180 gallon tank... that has all LPSs and SPS. We had a calcium reactor running and we have shut it off while we try to solve the problem.
<OK>
We have a 20 gal sump, and a protein skimmer rated for 220g. There is a lot of flow in the tank; we have 1 250k halide, and 72 in. pc Corallife. We were using purple up, Kent marine, Seachem, and now a friend suggested we try Tropic Marin.
<I would stick to one supplement to sort this all out...and dodge the Purple Up for good.>
Our tank has been going for a year now. We have about 300lbs of live rock and can’t seem to really get the coralline algae to start growing well either. Our fish are very healthy, some corals are thriving...some are getting by....and others are recently deteriorating.... PLEASE HELP!
Cheers,
Mark and Lindsay
<You need to test your magnesium level in your tank. This can have an impact on balancing your Alk/calcium to proper levels. A link to a great article on this below. Good luck, Scott V.>
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/oct2003/chem.htm

High Alkalinity/Calcium 12/3/07
Hi Crew:
<Hello Rich>
Great site! I have a question regarding alkalinity. After much research, I decided to try my hand at a reef tank.
<Congratulations, good to hear.>
Here are the specifics for my tank. Acrylic 125 gallons, 2X250 Metal Halides (14K phoenix bulbs), 2X65 T5 actinics, Two Vortech pumps with wavemaker, PanWorld return pump, Phosban reactor, Aqua C EV-180 Skimmer and a Geo's reef calcium reactor with Milwaukee Controller.
<Sounds like a great setup.>
The tank has been up for 3 months and there is noticeable coral growth. I've been doing my testing weekly to make sure the environment is somewhat stable for the corals. The results have been ok with the exception of my alkalinity. Every time I test it, it increases. It started at 8, then to 10, ultimately reaching it's current status of 15. Calcium is 475, Magnesium is 1300. All test are done with Salifert test kits. My question is, "Is my Alkalinity too high? And if so, how do I lower it? I do 10% water changes weekly. Your assistance is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Rich
<Both your alkalinity and calcium are high. Considering they have risen over a period of time it sounds like you need to turn the output of your calcium reactor down. You could also increase your water change amount/frequency to get back to normal. In a new tank with much coralline algae growth the numbers will lower themselves fairly quickly with the reactor output turned down. I would test alkalinity a few times a week until you get your reactor output balanced. Good luck, Scott V.>

Re: High Alkalinity/Calcium 12/3/07
Scott V.,
Thanks for the quick response.
<Very welcome.>
I'm headed home to turn down the down the output in my calcium reactor and do some water changes. Thanks so much!
<Sounds good. Have fun, Scott V.>
Rich

Question about alkalinity and calcium  11/28/2007
Good evening crew,
<And morrow now from HI>
Thank you for the great service you provide. This is a fantastic resource for us all.
<Welcome>
My question is about Alkalinity and Calcium. My aquarium is a 75 gallon reef with a mix of hard and soft coral. Filtration is via a sump/refugium, Euro-Reef Protein Skimmer, Carbon, and serious water circulation. Everything is happy and thriving; three and a half years old.
Until the beginning of October I was supplying the alkalinity and calcium requirements with "Seachem" Reef Builder and Reef Advantage Calcium and was up to 6 teaspoons of each on alternating days. Alkalinity was pretty stable around 3.5meq and Calcium hovered around 400ppm.
Then I decided to try Kalkwasser and slowly increased the dosage from 1/8 teaspoon to 5/8 teaspoon added twice a day, early am and around 10 pm.
<Mmm, okay... though am a bigger fan of dripping at night myself>
I am using the slurry method as described in the Book of Coral Propagation. Dosage was determined by limiting the pH change after dosing to around .2.
<Okay>
Here is the question: This amount of Kalk isn't enough to keep the alkalinity and calcium at the levels mentioned earlier.
<No... It won't>
In fact I am supplementing the Kalk with Reef Builder and Advantage Calcium
<See the ingredients labels of these products...>
to the tune of 4 teaspoons on alternating days as before and am still not keeping up with the demand. Even with the Kalk and supplements Calcium levels and alkalinity seem to be falling.
<Mmm, okay>
Pretty soon I will be back to 6 teaspoons of each just like before I started using the Kalk. What am I missing. I have read that Alkalinity and Calcium demands for an "average" aquarium can probably be met with 1 teaspoon of Kalk per day. Am I missing something?
<Not necessarily... you may have a bunch of biomineralizing life than some "average"... but... there is a good chance you're adding A and B to make C here as well... i.e. combining ready alkalinity and precipitating alkaline earths...>
So far the most noticeable plus from the Kalk is better protein skimming. Any hints?
Thanks so much,
Ralph Napiany
<Mmm, yes... reading. Start here: http://wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm
and on to the linked files above... start with "Importance, Science"... Bob Fenner>

Calcium/Alkalinity 8/8/07
Dear Wet Web Crew,
Thank you, thank you thank you. We would all be raising goldfish if it were not for you folks.
My question has to do with that old favorite, pH and alkalinity.
My make up water is RO/DI and has a pH of 6.0. I have been using Coralife salt mixed to 1.023. My mix container has an airstone and pH measures 7.1. I use a frequently calibrated Pinpoint pH meter. I dose daily with Kalkwasser and have a limewood airstone in the tank.
Pushing my alkalinity seems to be impossible. I was using Seabuffer. That seemed to raised my alk but my pH never stayed up. pH Goes up after Kalkwasser and then falls. I started to use C-balance and I do get an initial pH spike and it falls back down. I am not gaining traction. I have varied the dose and frequency and no matter what I try I can't my pH falls back to 7.8 range.
I have been all over your site. Read everything at least once. Reading about the marble analogy made me wonder about calcium.
I measured the calcium in my make up water and found it to be 500ppm. I have retested this over again. I am reading 500ppm. Could this be the reason that my pH doesn't stay up?
According to the Coralife spec that comes with the salt, my makeup water should read pH 8.2 - 8.3. and calcium should be 430-450 ppm.
I am not sure how to proceed to attain the desired 8.2 - 8.5 pH.
<Josh, have you read here? http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm>
Thanks again for your help
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Josh

Re: Calcium/Alkalinity 8/8/07
Thank you James. Yes I have read this article several times. That is why I am writing. Not being a chemist I second guess my interpretation of the information and my data.
<OK>
I am trying to get a handle on what I am confronted with.
Again, I cannot get sustained increase in pH.
I dose daily with Kalkwasser.
I have been adding 2 part additive.
I hesitate getting caught up with buffer (but perhaps I should??)
<I've been using SeaChem's Reef Builder for a couple of years with good results.>
Calcium is 500 ppm. Is this calcium level so high that it is preventing my pH from rising?
Should I stop adding Kalkwasser? Any other advise?
<Every aquarium, depending on conditions, may have both an actual and a "potential" pH. The "potential" pH refers to the level the water will reach when all of the components of the buffer system have reached equilibrium. These include temperature, carbonate balance and, most importantly, dissolved carbon dioxide. Ideally, the actual and "potential" will be equal. It is important to realize that the carbon dioxide gas dissolved in the water must be in equilibrium with the atmosphere before the "potential" pH can be obtained. The reason carbon dioxide is so important is that, when dissolved in water, it ionizes to form carbonic acid. So, a surplus of carbon dioxide will cause a reversible shift of the pH to the acidic range. Another factor in maintaining pH is the long term effect of the nitrogen cycle. As animal/food wastes are processed by the biological cycle, acids are produced, and these acids react directly with the bicarbonate buffers, slowly eliminating them. Your goal then, is to maintain good water quality, keep animal loads within the range your tank can support, frequent water changes, the use of an efficient protein skimmer and incorporate a good filter media such as  Chemi-Pure. You do not mention the type of filtering system you are using. A sump/wetdry works very well in eliminating carbon dioxide from the system along with saturating the water with O2.
When mixing seawater for water changes, the make-up
water should be aerated 24 hours before adding the salt mix. This will eliminate any CO2 in the water.
From what you have provided me with, I'm guessing excess nutrients is causing your pH control problem.
Do read here also. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nutrientcontrol.htm>
If you could address all of these questions it would confirm my assumptions.
Thank you.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Gratefully yours,
Josh

Re-Balancing Calcium/Alkalinity...Do Those Water Changes - 06/25/07
I sent this before but I didn't really ask a question to my second question.
<<Hmm, don't know who made the reply to you...for future reference please include previous responses>>
What am I doing wrong and what can I do to lower the Alk.
<<I've read through your previous query below...the first thing I would do is stop dosing everything>>
Water change?
<<Indeed...a couple large water changes a day or two apart are the single best thing you can do to get this system back in "balance">>
I do a 25% water change every 2-3 weeks.
<<Do the large water changes to bring your calcium/alkalinity back to NSW levels. Monitor these levels to determine a real "need" for supplementation re...many systems can be "supplemented" through simple water changes. If you find you need additional supplementation then stick to one of the two-part supplements (only), following directions and monitoring closely to keep the system balanced. Regards, EricR>>
> Hi there.
> I was recommended to your site from the LFS. They are very informative but said if they are not available to check you guys out and this site is awesome. I do have a few questions though. I have been doing this for a couple of years now and there is still soooo much to learn. I have two tanks. A 55 gallon and a 24 gallon Nano. My 24 has been doing great but my 55 not so lucking. First was the Red Slim and then the bacteria. Question is in regards to my 55.
> First - Protein Skimmer. I have one rated for 150 gallons. A few months ago I had to empty it once a week and it would be full of green liquid. Now since a month ago I have to empty it every 2 days and the liquid is brown. What do the colors mean?? No smell to it. Is it bad? All I have in there is 1 damsel, 1 sea horse, 1 engineer goby and a few coral. Not much as I have been to scared to add anything to it since my last disaster with the bacteria.
> Second - Cal/Alk. I know u have had plenty of questions on this. Calcium use to be at 420 with the use of purple up only but now it has dropped to 300 and Alk was at 7 meq/l which if I am right is too high which is another reason I think that my PH has been holding at 8.4 when it use to be always at 7.8. I love that it is at 8.4 but the Cal dropping and Alk high I don't trust. Another LFS (which I don't trust, they just want to sell) told me to use the B-ionic 2 part mix which I have been using. The Calcium is going up to 360 and that's when I noticed the Alk at 7 meq/l. So I have been only adding the second part mix which is the calcium plus purple up. Everything else is fine expect for the phosphate which is at 1.0. I have added some stuff to lower that now.
> This is what I have in my tank. Protein Skimmer, wet/dry filter, UV light, hang on filter. Lighting is 2 12k CF daylight and 2 65w blue bulbs
> Thanks
> Bill M

Low Calcium (And Use/Misuse Of Supplementation) – 06/15/07
Hi Crew,
<<Hello Marti>>
I have done a search on WWM and read everything I could find on "low calcium", but nothing seemed to answer my question.
<<Mmm...is sometimes “between the lines”>>
I have a 75-gal tank with about 110-lbs of live rock and 20-lbs Aragonite sand. I have had the tank 5 months, and I cannot get my calcium over 300, even though I add
about ½-gal Kalkwasser each night (2-tsp powdered Kalkwasser, dissolved in 1-gal filtered water, dripped slowly over 10 hours).
<<Maybe a symptom of this system being so new/young and still finding its “balance.” There really is something to be said for letting a system run “sans livestock” for 6-12 months...but so difficult to convince/convey in our society of “instant” gratification>>
Other additives include:
Weekly - Seachem Marine Buffer, according to directions, and Kent Marine Strontium & Molybdenum
Daily - Kent Liquid Calcium 1 tsp, and Two Little Fishies C-Balance (part "A" in the morning, part "B" in the afternoon)
<<Yikes Marty! This use of so many differing alkaline and calcium supplements all together is surely the issue here. How did you come to use so many products to boost calcium/alkalinity? Assuming your system even requires supplementation (many systems get “all they need” from frequent partial water changes), you can’t just throw all these elements in to the tank and hope for the best. The very first thing you need to do is stop this supplementation and perform several large water changes to get this tank back in balance. Oh...and start reading here (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm) to gain a better “understanding” of Calcium and Alkalinity and their “relation” to one another>>
I do 10% weekly water changes with Reef Crystals Salt. I make up saltwater a day before the changes, test salinity and pH (adjusting up with Kalkwasser if necessary), and use a heater and power head to mix and bring to temp before using.
<<I would prefer to see you give the salt a “few days” at least to mix thoroughly/complete its chemical processes before using>>
I had been using Instant Ocean, and thought I would have better luck with Reef Crystals, but it didn't make any difference.
<<The salt mix is not to blame here>>
My pH runs between 8.3-8.5, S.G. 1.025, Alkalinity 2.4-2.75 meq/L (7 - 7.7 dKH).
<<More like 6.7-7.7 dKH...a bit low...and likely also resultant of the misuse of supplementation>>
I was using the Nutrafin Calcium test kit, but even bought a new Salifert test kit, to be sure I was getting the correct Calcium levels.
Stocking:
3 Blue-Green Chromis
2 T.R. Ocellaris Clowns
1 Rock Blenny
1 Flame Angel
1 Yellow Tang
3 Peppermint Shrimp
2 Serpent Stars
20 Astrea Snails
1 Featherduster Worm
15 Blue-Legged Hermits
For corals, I have:
1 frag Zooanthids
1 Anthelia coral
1 Mushroom neon green frag
<<Mmm...I see no need for the supplementations you list>>
Since my stock shouldn't be using "tons" of calcium,
<<Indeed...and easily replenished with simple water changes>>
what could possibly be the problem?
<<As stated...the misguided overuse of Calcium and Alkaline supplements. How did this all come about I wonder...did “someone” start you down this path?>>
My Alkalinity seems good,
<<Could be better/a bit higher>>
and pH is correct. Anything else I should be testing, doing, adding, not doing???
<<As stated...stop dosing>>
Any help would be greatly appreciated - you guys and gals are the best!
Best Regards,
Marti
<<Once you do the water changes/get this system back in balance, test to confirm the need for the addition of Earth/bio-mineral elements and proceed slowly with a single product/methodology if needed. For your system as it is now, and IF you find you need to boost calcium/alkalinity, I suggest the careful (testing often and closely following instructions) use of the C-Balance two-part supplement. EricR>>

pH/calcium-reactor   5/19/07
Hi crew,
<Mohamed>
I try to maintain my calcium at 400ppm, KH 8 and PH 8.30
<Okay>
When not adding calcium, my calcium drops to under 300ppm and KH 4 within a week.
<Wow! I wonder what the input/s, output/s are here?>
Will a low calcium of 260ppm stress SPS?
<Can, yes>
----------------------------------------------------------
Is 8.30 to maintain Ph to
<too>
high?
<No>
My top up water is Kalk which maintains a high Ph,
<Mmm, no my friend... does/will NOT maintain a high pH... will only temporarily boost from the hydroxyl (OH) input... See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm
and the linked files above>
my controller is set at 8.30 so if my Ph drops below 8.30, Kalk is dosed but only if the float switch is activated (water drops below tank level).
One of my problems is that when the lights are off, evaporation is low so the float switch will not be active, my Ph drops to 7.91.
Is this a problem?
<Can be... the pH "point" itself is not problematical, but the swing/change is too much in this given period of time... The diurnal fluctuation of more than 0.2 part of a pH point can be trouble... The long and short of this is that you need to READ, understand what you're doing... Provide a source of carbonate, bicarbonate to BUFFER your pH>
I have read in some books that PH should not increase/decrease by more than 2/10,
<Oh! I am in agreement...>
can you please explain by example, please, e.g. from 8.00 to 8.20
<This is a valid example>
-------------------------------------------
I plan to build a calcium reactor but will like to know what range should my PH be set?
<Depends on the design... but if this is a "stock" carbon dioxide gas feeding unit...>
e.g. PH reaches 8.20 switch off the Co2 and switch it back on if the Ph reaches 8.30
thanks
   Mohamed
<Mmm... better for you to read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcreactors.htm
and the linked files above, and where the embedded links lead you... and for you to experiment with what you devise... there is a bit more to your proposal than you are presently aware of... That would require a good deal of going back and forth to determine what you know, what you're trying to do/accomplish... Read and assemble your specific questions, design... and we'll chat. Bob Fenner>

Calcium/dKH levels
Hey guys,
First off, let me start with the obligatory 'great site' comment. I'm relatively new to the hobby and have enjoyed your site and found it rather useful! Huge amounts of info in one place - what a treat!
Now for my problem - I recently got my reef tank going - cured the live rock for 4 weeks, and have had the tank up for another 4 weeks. 4 weeks ago I did a 100% water change, and another 50% water change 2 weeks ago.
<Why the large water changes? Not that I am against them. I have had reason to perform such large changes before.>
I was wondering if you had any thoughts on why my Calcium and dKH readings are so low (see below). I've been through the faq's on these, and I've found info on how to raise or maintain levels using reactors/Kalk/2-part additives, but can't figure out what can cause them to be low. I'm using RO/De-Ionized bottled water,
<And aerating or circulating it for a day? Or using it straight out of the bottle? Please aerate/circulate prior to use. Many FAQ's are filled by Q&A's on the subject.>
so I can see that I'd lose a little Ca there, but shouldn't there be enough Ca and buffer in the salt mix (Instant Ocean) that after two weeks these levels shouldn't be so low? I'd prefer to maintain the levels through routine water changes, but if I need to dose, then I need to dose - but I'm worried there may be some cause for the low levels that I can remedy rather than having to dose. I have a 20 gallon tank with a pseudo ecostyle/CPR DIY HOT refugium with grape Caulerpa, spaghetti grass and some red algae (Gracilaria tikvahiae) & Kent bio-sediment (4inches). I'm also running an Aqua-C Remora skimmer & carbon and have 2-36W power compacts - 1 actinic, 1 6500k (12 hr photo-period with refugium on an alternating/overlapping 14hr cycle). There is 25lbs live rock, 1 Percula clown, 1 yellow watchman goby, a cleaner shrimp, a BTA, and various polyp/soft-coral/mushroom cuttings in the tanks (not to mention various snails and hermit crabs) Water parameters are as follows:
Salinity - 1.021 @ 80 degrees
Temperature - 80 degrees
pH - 8.3
Alkalinity - dKH = 6
Calcium - 250
Ammonia - nada
Nitrite - nada
Nitrate - 2.5ppm
All water quality parameters tested using Red Sea test kits. While I have you on the line - let me through one more question your way - there are a couple of dead spots (low flow presumably leading to low oxygen) in my refugium where some Cyanobacteria have sprung up - I've siphoned it out, and was hoping that the other algae would out compete the Cyano for nutrients, but I'm not holding my breath. Short of cranking up the flow (running a Rio 600 right now) through the refugium, are there any other things I can do about this?
<Take a lot at the extensive FAQ's on Cyanobacteria.>
Thanks for your response and a great site-Matt
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro><<"It's" the new LR, decomposition... using up the biomineral and alkalinity here. RMF>

Calcium Precipitation - 2/21/07
<Hey Ray, JustinN with you today.>
Thanks for your response,
<As I'm not the original responder, I cannot take credit, but I'm sure whomever did respond is quite welcome.>
I would, however, like more detail on the snow effect I notice with adding the calcium supplement I use.  What more information do you need?
<Don't think any information is needed from you on this one, pretty self explanatory.>
Your input is greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Ray   
<Well, Ray, the "snow effect" is the precipitation of calcium out of your water. This is occurring because your water chemistry is skewed, out of whack. This problem stems from the misapplication of buffering and calcium supplements. To simplify the concept, water can only retain so much of the calcium solution, and when this amount is exceeded, it causes the calcium to bind and become unusable, creating the snow globe effect you speak of. First as far as solutions go: Stop dosing! Get a reliable alkalinity test, get a reliable calcium test, and have a thorough read through this excellent article: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm and the linked files in blue. Don't skim this article, read it, know it, learn it, live it! Every time that you cause a precipitory event in your tank, you are starting a roller coaster of chemical stability that you no longer have control over! Good luck, my friend. -JustinN>

Alkalinity, calcium and pH  2/18/07
Hi Everyone,
I have a 72 gal FOWLR tank (with a 1" bed of live sand - aragonite) that is almost 4 months old with 2 percula clowns, a six line wrasse, a yellow tang, and a coral beauty angel. I have a regal tang in quarantine almost ready to join the others. The fish are very happy and healthy, but I'm not!
<!>
My problem is that my alkalinity has gotten too high (6.57 meq/l), my pH hovers around 8.0 to 8.15, and my calcium level is 280ppm. I think I know how this happened. In my quest to raise the ph, I added Proper pH 8.2
<Mmm, this product should only be used in freshwater settings>
to excess not realizing that it was cranking up the alkalinity. My question is this:  How do I correct this situation?
<Mmm, best with time going by, regular water changes... and leaving this product out>
My plan is to do 10% water changes daily (or every other day - I routinely do them weekly)
<Good... but I'd stick with the weekly... with pre-mixed/stored water... and 20-25%>
to gradually bring down the alkalinity using RO/DI water (with Instant Ocean salt).  This is where I get a little lost.  What do I do to get pH and calcium levels in order.  My goal is pH = 8.3, calcium = 350-400 ppm, and alkalinity = 3.5 meq/l.  Are these proper values for a FOWLR system?
<Yes>
  I'm trying to increase the coralline algae growth on my live rock.  I need a plan of attack - a recipe for success if you will.  Hope you can help. Thanks in advance. Mike.
<Thank you for writing so clearly, thoroughly... The water changes with the Aquarium Systems salt mix, the stock, substrate you list... should "do it"... in a few months time. Bob Fenner>

- High Calcium & Alkalinity -
Hello, lord I love this site and the information! I am very new to the marine aquarium.  Have spent many enjoyable hours on this site.  I have had my tank for 5 months.  It is a 70 gallon tank, with an Excalibur skimmer, AquaClear wet/dry.  I do water changes everyday of about 2 gallons.  I test the water every week.  NH3=0, nitrites=0, nitrates=20 (I have not been able to get this down under 20, I am looking at a 350 Magnum, or Fluval 404 for chemical/mechanical filtration). pH=8.2, salt 1.024.  I use either, RO water, DI water, or spring bottled water, sometimes tap water treated with Amquel, but I age it for at least a week in a large (brand new) garbage can.  I have about 50 lbs of live rock and a going to get more in time.  I have 5 clowns, 1 flame angel, 1 Foxface tang, 2 damsels.  2 peppermint shrimp, 1 coral banded shrimp, about 10 turbo snails, 2 hermit crabs.  2 yellow polyps, 3 mushrooms, 2 green star polyps.  (oh... one anemone, that I bought at a LFS BEFORE,  I read the articles on this site)  It seems to be fine, except it has not attached to anything, but it does stay in one corner.  The clowns love it and have settled down very nicely....right now one of the clowns have taken to one of the green star polyps as home.  I researched and read about just about everything except water hardness.
I have a Ca+ kit... (sea test), I used it a few times but thought something was wrong with this kit as I could not get a reading... I would use about 50-60 drops before the color would change.  My LFS said my kit was reading wrong.  Tonight I just bought a KH kit  (Hagen) .  The KH was 100 mg/ml, however the GH was over 2000 mg/ml.  So with a high Ca+ and a high GH my water source is very, very hard, yes? <Quite possible, yes.>
So apparently my Ca+ kit was working....am I in big trouble??? <Only if you keep adding calcium or alkalinity buffers.> I live outside of Buffalo, NY, and as I was talking to my husband about this, my son said "Duh...this area has very hard water, which is the first thing they learned in chemistry..."  (son is 17)... I had chemistry too, I guess I was not paying attention to that little detail... <Or it had little application on the day.>
Will this give me trouble? <Again, only if you are trying to supplement calcium or alkalinity through other means.> My tank has just started to grow nice purple coralline, algae is under control with my nice tang, who now eats Nori seaweed to help with his diet, so does my cat who loves the seaweed.  Do I do anything?  If so, what??? <Regular water changes, don't add anything for calcium/alkalinity.> I am having so much fun with this tank, and the learning process.  I checked on most of anything I bought before hand, took my Marine book (yours) to the store with me, read on the Internet.  But I never thought about the Ca+, I thought I would worry about that later as I added more live rock to build up my reef.  Anything in excess is toxic... help!  Do I panic? <No.> or can I ignore... <Don't ignore either... will pay to keep an eye on things.>
Thanks so much for any help! Kris
<Cheers, J -- >

Maddening Problems With Simple Solutions?
Hello, and thanks for taking the time to read my email.....(Greatly Appreciated!!!!) :)
<That's what we're hee for! Scott F. at the keyboard today>
Here is the problem, well two problems.... <1> My alk is consistently too high 6.5 meq L-- 18 dKH and my pH is stuck at 7.9--8.0  causing serious problems with corals. ( make up water is RO ) I need to lower the alkalinity so I can raise pH...<2> I have an EcoSystems  Reefugium mounted above the tank which has gravity fed return into display. The amount of bubbles that it releases as the water enters into the display is entirely unacceptable (I believe its a 1 1/4 " return line). I have contacted them on this matter and they have no insight to the
problem. Please help i am ready to dismantle it and start stamp collecting instead!!!!!Much Thanks in advance Anthony Pastorelli NYC Fireman  Bayside, Queens, NY
<Well, Anthony- please don't take up stamp collecting yet! I suppose a simple approach to the high alkalinity problem might be to either dose more Kalkwasser (which has the effect of lowering alkalinity over time), or possibly using some (gasp!) un-buffered RO/DI water when you mix your salt...As far as the microbubbles are concerned- I'd try to construct some kind of "baffle" under the return with acrylic, or even use the most simple of all techniques- employ some sponge under the return flow to help catch 'em...Just some thoughts, but maybe they will work, or at least inspire you to try similar ideas...Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Water chemistry problem
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2005
Okay, I want to give this up and get a hamster.
I recently moved from a 40 gallon /w 20 refugium to a 12 gallon.  I didn't have a ton of livestock, so it all fit perfectly fine.  It is now three days later and I'm having major problems.  I've been doing large water changes (75% or so) in the event of a small cycle.  I WISH that were my problem.  I did a water change, and tested the SW mix to be a pH of 8.3.  Dandy.  I put it in the aquarium.  5 hours later, it's 7.0.  (not to mention dead clam, my fish are dead, and my cleaner shrimp is dead).  So I do another 100% water change.  Same thing, 4 hours later my pH is down to 7.4.  I've been using tap water (like I've been doing 11 years) so I decide to try distilled water.  I buffer it to 8.3 with alk buffer + IO salt mix, and do an 80% water change.  I come home from work (5 hours later) and it's 7.5 again.  I test my calc - kinda low, 325 PPM, so I should be able to add alk buffer ok to up the ph - right?  WRONG.  The instant I add a SMALL amount of alk buffer I cause a precipitation.  OF WHAT?  My calc is LOW!  my pH is LOW!  ARGHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!  Words cannot describe the frustration.  Could it be a bad batch of salt?
K I'm going to go sit in a corner and bang my head against the wall.
<Mmm, something is definitely awry here... DO keep that bag of salt sealed against exposure from the air... This is definitely the chief suspect here... the formulations of all major brands of synthetic are purposely over-buffered... none have the direct capacity to cause precipitation with what you describe... DO mix up some and test in "just a jar"... and relate what you observe, pH, dKH, calcium, magnesium concentration. BobF>

Re: Water chemistry problem
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2005
Hun, I'll be on YIM in like 5 min. We'll troubleshoot. =)
It's going to be OK!! & def no hamsters, no matter what Bob & Anthony say.
  A pH drop is only due to a few things..
    Calcium reactor  (not your prob)
    Low alkalinity (hmmm...)
    Too much CO2 because of inadequate aeration (see how to test for that below..)
    Too much CO2 in the tank because of the air in your house    Excess acid being made from a nitrogen cycle Aim Re:
D'oh! How to test..
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-09/rhf/index.htm

Re: Water chemistry problem
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2005
hard to say from the limited info, but one scenario that fits:
something done (usually one good slip of a supplement - too heavy handed, or extremely skewed source or tap water) starts a precipitous reaction (can be Ca or Carbonates) and anything done during the precip (like water changes or "reverse" supplements) to correct it only fuels the reaction! The infamous example is a "snowstorm" of calcium... but it works just the same with carbonates settling out. And the snowstorm isn't always so literal/obvious (cloudy water( but the chemistry tells a different (real) story.
I dunno if this is your situation my friend. I just flew home tonight. A bit of a rough weekend after all :( Am bushed too...
I'll be online for a bit if by chance you are up to chat... else I'll be available to help out if needed/wanted.
Ant :)

Re: Water chemistry problem
Ok, Instant Ocean (a 250 gallon bucket with a sealing lid, so no air contact long term) mixed with distilled water and nothing else yields 375 ppm calcium, 2.5 meq\L alk, and a pH of 8.1 Not the best, which is why I usually alk buffer it. My mg kit is out of reagent, I'll have to get some more. Any thoughts?
<Yes. Very different than the dropping pH, snowstorm in your principal system... Why is this? BobF> 

Re: Water chemistry problem
As an added note, any additives cause precipitation...and there is precipitation all over the glass, and a large crystal on the Kalk drip tube (which I've stopped). No ideas...
<Mmm, well, you've gots a wild mix of bi/carbonates and alkaline earth materials joining together... the all-too-usual result of a/the Kalk habit.... worse in small systems.... older, less-well maintained...>
pH is sitting happily at 7.5, can't raise it, both Kalk and alk buffers cause more precipitation...
<Time for the MASSIVE water change... make that transfusion.   BobF>

Alk/Ca skewed.. water changes to cure 2/18/05
First I want to say thanks for all the help in the past. In the few years I have been keeping an aquarium, I have made many mistakes and the information on this site has got me (and the critters) through all of them.
<thanks kindly... do tell friends about our site>
The setup is a 72 gal bowfront that has been running for about a year now. It is an upgrade from a 50 gal setup that we had for about 2 years that we got when a pet store went out of business. So far it has been stable and easy to maintain. The over flow drains through a filter sock to a 20 gal sump with a Turboflotor skimmer and I also use a SeaClone hanging on the back.
<unless these socks are cleaned near daily... they degrade water quality by allowing solids to linger and dissolve, and rob them from (suspension) skimmers that could otherwise export them>
I get a cup or so of the stinky stuff every couple of days between the two. I also have a home made refugium on the back of the display that is full of critters as are the overflow box and the sump. There is about 110 lbs of Fiji rock and 4-6" fine sand. I have been lax in doing water changes (about 10% every 3-4 weeks) but the water quality has always been very good with the exception of the calcium always testing on the high side.
<do investigate why... supplements, hard water, etc. And please do larger, more frequent water changes: Dilution is the Solution to Pollution. Else "things" will catch up with you over time>
I added an elegance and bubble coral about 3 weeks ago, and the next day they both looked great. The second day the elegance looked great but the bubble did not expand fully. After about 4 days the bubble was not opening so I tested the water and found that ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, and phosphate were all zero (as usual) but ph was at 7.8 (afternoon), alk was at about 2.0 meg/l and calcium was at almost 600 (I don't use any calcium supplements at all).
<yikes... scary if accurate. Do test your readings on other brands of test kits... LFS service perhaps?>
Over the next 4 days I dosed with small amounts of Kent Superbuffer and did 3 small water changes (about 10% each). Within about 4 days the ph was up to 8.3 in the evening, alk was up to 3 meg/l and calcium was back around 500.
<still high on Ca and dangerous over time. If your tap water is not high in Ca, then the sea salt and water changes if big enough should bring these numbers into a safe and more balanced range>
That was about a week ago and the bubble is still opening less each day. It is not near anything else and in a corner with light flow. It is also at the same place relative to the lighting as it was in the LFS and under the same lights as the LFS (4- 65w pc 2 are actinic) What am I missing?
<patience... needs time (weeks) to slowly recover. Be sure to feed this very hungry (naturally) coral 3-5 times weekly with small bits of meaty food>
The tank is currently stocked with:
5 green Chromis, 1 percula clown, 1 hippo tang, 1 sunrise Dottyback, 1 mandarin (I know, but the fuge seems to do the job and the other guys seem to leave him alone), 1 serpent star, 10-12 Nassarius snails, a dozen or so hermits and a small crab that I have only seen twice and can't identify. There are also uncountable zooanthids (hitch hikers) several purple mushrooms, a small cluster of xenia, a colony of green star polyps, several Ricordea, 2 small colt corals (I think) and the latest additions are an elegance coral and a bubble coral (the problem child).
Any advice you could give would be appreciated, and thanks again for all the help in the past. your fellow fish addict. Chris
<best of luck! Anthony>

Calcium and carbonate hardness
Hi Guys.. (No gender bias intended)
<None taken>
Man what a great site. I've been doing this long enough to remember the only good source of info being printed materials like Moe's Marine Aquarium Handbook, and college textbooks on marine biology, not that they weren't, and still are, a great source of info. It's almost mind-blowing the amount of good (as well as useless) info out there now, and its great to have such a knowledgeable and respected staff to sort through the bull%#$@ or fish poop as it may be.
<Ha!>
I work at a local mom and pop LFS part time, and doing some aquarium maintenance service. I've been working on and off for the last 15 years or so in the fish trade starting as a employee at a pet store in New Mexico while I was going to college there, still the best job I ever had and was lucky to start out at a place where there were so many knowledgeable people who cared about the hobby, just wish there was more money in it :) Anyway, I'm rambling and haven't even asked my question.
<I understand... had/have a similar background>
The query involves a problem I'm (as well as a few customers of mine are having) with KH and CA concentrations (I know I know don't fall asleep yet). Just wanted you to know that I have a pretty firm grasp of the fundamentals, although I'm constantly amazed by what I don't know, and I have perused the previous posts pretty thoroughly, but I'm still stuck. The Issues are dangerously high calcium, 650ppm and up depending on the test kit, (and I have tried several) accompanied by a higher than normal K. I know this is next to impossible as the only issues I've had in the past entailed proactive measures to keep CA and KH up to reasonable levels. This is not; however, an isolated event as I have seen this problem several times, and all without some kind of precipitation event AKA "snowstorm". With my customers I have always assumed it was due to blindly dosing with 2 part buffers and not testing for results until too late.
<Commonly this is so>
I always recommend the cessation of any additive as well as a series of water changes to get things under control.
<Our standard spiel as well>
Magnesium levels were also checked and adjusted as I've found low levels of this can skew CA levels.
<Yes>
I was always amazed at the congruous high levels of CA and KH, as I thought this was impossible, or at least very unlikely, for more than a few hours at a time, something has got to give, but I've seen this happen for weeks based on testing and retesting with differing brands of reagents.
<Can indeed "happen"... with the influence of other compounds present...>
Here's the kicker, for me anyway, I just set up a 30 gallon reef tank in my office not the first (or the 20th) I've set up and I'm having the same issue! Me, this does not happen to ME, I solve other peoples problems, I don't actually HAVE problems, lol, I'm really not that egotistical no problems to solve equals an uninteresting hobby, right. Jeez someone edit me I'm getting long winded, and now I'm writing about how long winded I am and. Its just that I don't get out much and.... AHHH!!!!
<Perhaps a small vacation...>
The new setup is a 30 gallon cube with a 5" DSB, 40 lbs live rock (or "once live" rock, freebies from the bottom of the rock culturing pool) Remora skimmer a couple powerheads and about 80 watts of PC light, pretty standard. I've added nothing to the tank except Oceanic salt mixed with RO/DI to the sg of 1.024, and a few hermits. My calcium levels are 660ppm and my KH is 130 mg/L, yes that is not a misprint, and it has been there for over a week.
<This is likely due to the Central Garden and Pet salt mix>
The tank appears to be normal no precipitation normal new live rock stuff coming out, tube worms, few bristle worms, the Aiptasia and the rock anemones seem to be doing fine lol, little bit of diatom growth, start of some green algae. This is where I would normally start dosing some calcium gluconate to kick off the coralline algae but I don't think that's prudent, obviously. My other parameters are normal pH 8.0 (a little low maybe) NH3 up a little for a few days now at 0, same with NO2, no phosphate, no NH3 yet. Like I said I have added no life except my "once live" rock and the hermits.  Should I do anything proactive to bring these ridiculous levels down.
<Yes... switch synthetic salt brands>
Something beside a water change, and yes, the salt mixed with RO and tested in a separate container tests out equally scary. There is some variance between test kits but they all test within 20-30 ppm for Ca2+,and 10 mg/L KH. I'm worried that at any second my tank is going to turn into a 30 gallon snow globe, no shaking necessary with the help of my powerheads keeping the flakes in suspension, not what I had in mind. Help.
<We've had a few reports re the Oceanic brand and these issues. Look into making a deal (for volume) for Instant Ocean IMO... Bob Fenner>

Re: calcium and carbonate hardness, Oceanic salt mix
Thanks for the reply.
<Welcome>
I have heard by some that Oceanic brand salts have higher than normal CA levels, but lower KH. My batch seems to have high levels of both.
<This is a highly inconsistent product>
I have heard some GREAT reviews of this salt so thought I'd try. My guess is that the people who have had good luck had a pre-existing set up and switched to Oceanic. If they had low CA and ALK then a PARTIAL water change with this dissolved rock could actually improve their water conditions, in a reef that was already established and calcium hungry.
<Correct>
But for new setups, never again. I will be switching back to IO or TM, so will all my customers.
<Ah, both good products>
Just ordered my Reef Invertebrate book, can't wait.  A.J. Ginther
<I look forward to "hearing" your review. Bob Fenner> 

Balancing Calcium and Alkalinity 5/21/05
Believe it or not, I've actually read that article several times.. I think what you're trying to say is as long as you have a balance between Alkalinity and calcium, it shouldn't be a problem. So in my situation, I'm going to have to slowly drop Alkalinity to the desired range (8-12dKH), and then maintain both calcium and alkalinity, right?
<Yes, true... all changes should be slow. Yet I wonder/fear you may engage in a see-saw regime of supplementation that many folks do when trying to cure an imbalance. In most cases (this one indeed) I usually recommend an even-keeled sea salt like Instant Ocean and large water changes several over a couple weeks) to dilute the imbalance and return you to par. kindly, Anthony>

ppm or dKH?/Ph update
Well, my Ph didn't rise a bit after aerating, still 7.8,..UGH! Even my Alk seems to have fallen a bit from 11dkh to 9. I don't get it?
<no worries... this actually makes things easier for us. Your Ca is high and does not need any heavier Kalkwasser. You will continue to test and dose Kalk to stay in the 400ppm range. Now with your ALK and pH depressed... they indicate the need for simple buffers. Baking soda will be fine here. Use small amounts and be patient (too fast dosing can precipitate out and get really ugly). This sodium bicarbonate will raise your pH and Alkalinity. If you find it easier... buy and use a two part supplement (but do a water change or to balance Ca and Alk before starting dose... you must begin in balance to continue in balance). Or perhaps a Calcium reactor is in the plans down the road for you. Both are easier than the Kalk and buffer seesaw... but they are a lot more expensive too. Kalk also has many benefits over all. The lack of a pH rise after aeration is a good sign>
Maybe I should attach airline to another of the powerheads... it doesn't do much for the aesthetics of the tank however.
<to be specific, dear... my recommendation was to aerate a glass of water. Aerating the whole tank is too easily influenced by other factors (DOC levels, bio-load, feeding etc). I suspect that aerating the sample glass will not be much different though (no change). Still.. to be sure, run that test. The venturis are a mess on the tank. Too many bubbles, irritates coral and some fishes, causes salt creep. Again, my recommendation for aeration of we needed it was a better skimmer (more oxygenation here) or an extra airstone in the sump>
I hope to find a better way the increase circulation once
we figure out this problem. Maybe I feed too much??
<feeding does burden this process... but I'm inclined to feed heavy myself and compensate with good water changes and aggressive skimming, carbon, etc>
About every other day, my 3 clowns, 5 assorted shrimps, 3 dominos, and 3 (?) fish all enjoy fresh from the beach chopped assorted snails, you know, the type that wash ashore stuck to the rocks.
<very dangerous to feed in the long run. Disease and metal contamination in the flesh. Unless you live on a rural Australian coastline, you simply reside too near (big picture... 100 miles above and below your coast) industry and people. The first several miles of water on this and most any beach are off limits in my book for water or food collection. The diseases you could bring your fish alone are scary. At least freeze the snails first for several weeks or more to kill off some possibilities. Still not fool proof>
Then on and off I give them a bit of flake Marine food
and Spirulina algae. Would you be happy on this diet??
<it is a very limited diet. Lacks fresh vitamins and fatty acids. Keep your flake and Spirulina, freeze the snails, add frozen Mysis shrimp, gammarus shrimp and or plankton/krill (frozen), and perhaps a quality pelleted food (perhaps in stead of the flakes). Vibra Gro ranks high for me. Nori seaweed for tangs and angels too (dried)>
Oh yes, 75 gallon tank. Thanks my friends!! Pam
<best regards, Anthony>

Alkalinity and pH
I have a quick question about alkalinity. Last Wednesday I brought home an Elegant Coral and a Open Brain Coral.
<both are placed on the sand bottom right? They must to survive... see archives here at WWM>
By the weekend the Elegant Coral had developed brown jelly disease and infected the open brain above it.
<above it suggests placement of at least on rock. Hmmm... free-living SPS corals become stressed and abraded when polyps cycles cause wounds and tears on live rock... leading to infection. May not have been your problem... could have been shipping/handling if they were new at LFS. Still... you sound like a new aquarist. Do consider that quarantine is necessary for all new fishes and corals (4 weeks in a separate tank). This prevent s the spread of such infection s to your whole tanks, saves lives and has many other benefits. Please visit the wetwebmedia archives on this topic as well. Also... buy a good reference book and read it to guide your purchases before bringing livestock home my friend>
I immediately sucked the disease off them and removed them from the tank. I fresh water dipped them and tried them again. Of course too late, the next day I removed them completely.
<indeed... it is highly contagious/virulent. Best treated in QT for any chance of survival and more so to protect the rest of the tank>
Since then (Sunday) I have been fighting a low PH.
<not caused by the corals of course... if anything, the waning pH of the system stressed the corals and was a catalyst>
About 7.8.
<Doh!>
I have been adding Kent PH Buffer. Today it is about 7.9.
The thing that scares me the most is my alkalinity is 16.32.
<holy cow!>
I checked twice yesterday which was over 18 and today it is 16.32 (DKH). What can I do to lower this and raise the PH at the same time?  
<dilution is the solution to pollution: water changes. And if your Ca is low (under 375ppm here), use Kalkwasser to raise pH without raising Alk directly>
I haven't been adding any 2 part calcium additives at all. Just the Tropic Marin Calcium.
<sounds like things have gotten out of kilter. Several large water changes and then resume with Kalk/buffer or 2-part mix (but shake very well before every dose... critical!)>
Thanks, Ian Roff
<best regards, Anthony>

Ca/Alk
This is like the never ending question, sorry, but I am learning so much from this conversation.
<indeed the purpose my friend>
The reason for using the Seachem Reef Calcium and SeaBuffer is to maintain proper Ca & ALK levels.  
<agreed on premise and half on application. The SeaBuffer is fine and necessary for buffers (carbonates). The Reef Calcium however does not maintain readily USABLE/assimilated calcium for coral growth. Its a great product for corallines, but not recommended for almost any other calcifying reef animal no matter what your test kit reading says. This unfortunate reality is time tested. Calcium gluconate is a supplement to Kalkwasser and for growing corallines but should not be used as a primary vehicle for Ca maintenance>
What I didn't think to tell you was I have been adding Sea-Lab #28 blocks since week one.
<OK... but here you have a problem with accumulating Chloride ions. Please, my friend... if you do not delve deeper into the chemistry of it (no fun anyway for most), trust me: The two best ways to provide calcium for your tank are Kalkwasser (calcium hydroxide... or calcium oxide) or a calcium reactor. Liquid or dry calcium chloride has significant issues and pitfalls with proper use, and calcium gluconate is not useful too much beyond corallines>
According to their booklet this includes Calcium, Strontium and all trace elements and in fact further state that Ca is 400.0 ppm.
<not as a long term solution in my opinion. A good product for small tanks with large water change schedules. Else, Kalkwasser for bigger aquaria (over 40 gallons)>>
Am I good with this product? If not, should I use Seachem along with Sea-LAB #28 already added?
<neither... Kalk and SeaBuffer if not using a calcium reactor>
As to ALK, I also have (not used in this tank yet) Sea-LAB #14pH which controls Alkalinity. Would this product work as well?
<possibly... little to go wrong here. I do like most SeaChem's products very much. A fine company>
I have no problem getting the product you suggested, I'm sure you have great experience using these and feel confident is suggesting them and I appreciate the advice. Just wondering if I should/could use what I have on hand?
<target the ingredients used and not the brands. Calcium chloride and calcium gluconate are deal breakers in any form by me>
As always "Thank You" from the bottom of my fish tank :-) Dave
<cool... I have never been thanked from the level of detritus before... humbling <G>. Best regards, Anthony>

Calcium/Alkalinity
More Follow up: Let me start our with a great big "Thank You" for all the help.
<Anthony Calfo with the follow up... and you are welcome, my friend>
With valuable resources like this site and my "Recently Ordered" copy of CMA (can't wait to get it). There's no doubt that "this time" my tank will be a success.
As a follow up to my last questions;
I was (no longer) adding Sea-Lab #14 and #28 (without testing for Ca, just following directions and watching pH. I now know this was foolish of me.) and suspect this is the cause for my very high Ca and maybe my red slime out break. Along with my (Ca) test kit I have purchased the SeaChem Reef Calcium as Anthony suggested, but am waiting for Ca to return to normal levels before beginning this product.
<agreed... and a second Ca test kit wouldn't be a terrible idea either for comparison>
The Ca rate is dropping. From 1080 this past Sunday to 675 today.
My concern is for my Domino Damsel and the dropping pH. Down to 7.7 from 8.3.
<agree... dangerously low/fast>
Yesterday I started adding Baking Soda to my 55g tank to attempt to stabilize the pH. I have searched the FAQ's and web, but failed to find the recommended dosage.
<there is not amount per tank/gallonage as everyone DOC and acid levels vary by system. The dosage of baking soda is limited by how fast a given amount makes your pH rise. Just start slow and be sure to use no more than will raise your pH .2 in one day><<Mmm, would have suggested measuring alkalinity... using this as a basis of determining "alkaline demand". RMF>>
I'm currently adding 1 1/2 tsp per day. (Based on the dosage of Part B on the Sea-Lab #14, figuring it was also baking soda)
Am I on the right track here?
<the amount is reasonable... but simply test your pH an hour later to verify>
Thank you for helping
Dave
<best regards, Anthony>

High Calcium / Low Alk
Hi guys, My pH is stable at 8.3, but my alkalinity is 4.5 and my calcium is over 520!  
<wow... please immediately stop using additives and do several large water changes to correct the imbalance. You are in danger of a crystalline (and catastrophic) precipitation>
What is the best way to remedy this situation.  
<large gentle water changes>
I'm currently using the EVS B-ionic system; should I just use the Alkalinity component for a few days and lay off the Calcium?
<nope... the condition got this way because you either added the new 2-part to the tank when it was not balanced (you must be balanced to continue with balance)... OR... (my guess) you have been using the calcium part without shaking it vigorously before every single dose. These products separate in the bottle (pour some in a clear graduated cylinder and see overnight the separation of clears). After some time this has caused the imbalance>
Thanks again, Adam
Have you read through our archives including here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm
Best regards, Anthony>

Re: High Calcium / Low Alk
Thanks Anthony, I have more information now.  OK, yesterday (before I got your email) half of my fish were breathing very heavily and very quickly, and were lethargic.  My blue damsel (who is the first fish added to my tank after cycling over 6 years ago) looked like he was dying for sure.  He was lying on the sand, and occasionally falling on his side.  As it turns out I also noticed that my skimmer wasn't functioning.  So, I aggressively skimmed
for the past 24 hours, pulling out about 2 gallons of nasty dark yellow stuff, and performed a 20 % water change.  I also added fresh PHOSGUARD and carbon.  
<excellent thinking and recovery strategy. Kudos>
The blue damsel has come back to life!!!  Acting like himself again!!  So have the rest of the fish.
Side question: when I began skimming, it was out of whack for the first two hours (over-foaming).  Is this related to any of what we are discussing? Have any theories?
<too many possibilities for why... skimmate production is influenced by the integrity of the proteinaceous sheen at the surface, barometric pressure (bubble size), colloidal matter in the skimmer neck (helps climbing bubbles) and the list goes on>
I now realize that my alk was never low at 4.5 meq/L, but I do understand the risks associate with having calcium and alk so high.  
<whoa! My fault... I thought you meant 4.5 dKH (which would be scary low)... as meg/l go... it is fine and on the high end>
My understanding is that my alk level is fine, but my calcium level needs to be more like 400-450.  Would this be safe, and considered 'in balance'?
<agreed>
>One last question that has been driving me crazy:  I just ordered an RO/DI -
it will be here within a week.  What additive do you use to
prepare/reconstitute (match your pH etc) for RO/DI water?  
<tons of info on this topic in the archives of wetwebmedia.com  The gist of it is to aerate your water first... then buffer it slightly... mix well... then salt (a 36 hr or longer process). No need to remineralize the purified water to high alk... just med tap water levels is fine>
What effect, if any would this have on the balance we are discussing above.
<it will be negative if carbonate buffer/solutions are abuse (excess)>
Thanks Anthony,  you saved me from a potential crash.  My fish thank you also. Adam
<our great pleasure. Anthony>

How Much Time Does My Tank Have?
Hey there Crew,
<dude...>
I have a dilemma.
<fess up buuuudy>
According to the LaMotte calcium test, my calcium level is over 800.
<how cool is that... you have a living snow globe!>
My alk is 3.0 meq/l (8.4 dKH) according to Fastest kit.
<the slightly low ALK is expected and necessary to prevent "snowfall" (crystalline precip of carbonates)>
Ammonia=0, Nitrate<5ppm, pH ~8.2, SG = 1.025. Back in
October 2002, I was using SeaTest Ca test and getting readings about 600 or so. I stopped using the two-part and did greater than 25% water changes weekly in addition to my 10% weekly water changes. I have not added any Ca additives since the end of October.
<something does not add up then. Test your source water for high calcium. The Ca must be coming from somewhere. If the tap is high and you have a lot of evap, perhaps there's your ticket>
I did my last 25% water change last week, and switched to LaMotte test kit for Ca this week. My current procedures don't seem to be lowering the Ca.
<we simply need to ID where its coming from. Sea salt mixes up at 325-450 ppm Ca at best.>
I have about 100lbs of Fiji LR, and aragonite mixed with fine sand as substrate. I have a 3 inch across brown Acropora sp., colony of yellow colonial polyps, green star polyps, metallic blue mushrooms, a bubble tip anemone, Astrea snails, 3 peppermint shrimp, and a few blue legged hermit crabs, 3 damsels, and a tomato clown all in a 55 gallon with built in corner overflow (with newly installed Durso), going into a 10 gallon sump where
there sits an AquaC Urchin in the first chamber, then Chemi-pure and PolyFilter, couple of pieces of LR, and a Mag9.5 return pump. Skimmer is producing about a 1/4 cup of skimmate daily. I top off with buffered deionized water.
<Hmmm... shoots that theory>
My 10% weekly changes are done with aerated, buffered
water made 4 days in advanced. The major 25% changes have been done with regular tap water, aerated, then buffered, then salted over 4 days. I use Instant Ocean.
<yes... under 400ppm likely... Ca coming from elsewhere. Mix a batch of new saltwater and test that before it goes into the tank>
However, my Acropora has started to grow (new white tips all over, and it's starting to grow over the dead skeleton base), with full polyp extension. It took many months to acclimate, I guess. My
colonies of yellow polyps and green star polyps are spreading, and the coralline growth is running rampant (so many new spots growing all over rocks and glass, I can't scrape it off front pane fast enough). Snail shells are covered with coralline and I can see where new shell is calcifying(?). Help me please. Or should I ask how much time does my tank have before it crashes? Thanx,
Randy M. Yniguez, MA
<we should be able to control these levels simply with new seawater made with purified water. Kindly, Anthony>

How Much Time Does My Tank Have? Ca/Alk problems
Thanx for the response Anthony.
I shouldn't  try to raise alk level then?
<nope... could be fuel for the fire>
Is the tank "naturally" trying to prevent precip on its own?
<sort of... or rather, high levels of both coincidently are difficult and unnatural. In a healthy tank, when one is high, the other is moderate at best. Here, though, you Ca is frightful. Dilution ASAP with confirmed low "low" (normal -350ppm) new seawater is needed>
I will persist with the water changes after I test a new batch of sea water. What (side) effects could occur if I did about a 50% water change?
<nothing bad with properly mixed/aerated NSW conditions>
What long term effects are there if I allowed Ca to stay over 800?
<hell breaking loose>
Would alk start going down?
<yes... very likely>
Would the addition of more Ca loving organisms help alleviate or lower Ca levels?
<not direct or appropriate. It assumes that they can even calcify in the skewed dynamic>
Should I continue to buffer top off and water changes?
<minimally and normally but not to excess>
Thanx, RY
<best regards, Anthony>

- Stabilizing Calcium/Alkalinity -
Hi there All
A question regarding my tank:
Calcium levels were found to be low 280ppm, started raising it using Red Sea Reef Calcium, level went to approx 450ppm.
Alkalinity was measured at the same time and found to be very low 2.0meg/l ,started raising it using Red sea reef Kalk.
I seem unable to raise alkalinity any higher than it is now 2.5meg/l  and calcium levels have moved past the 500ppm mark!
<Yes, well... calcium and alkalinity at high levels become mutually exclusive - meaning if one is high, the other will be low. Please read this article: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm >
I have had a very stable Ph up until now, but this has also dropped to a level of 7.9 during the day! Will be even lower at night! I have noticed the tips of the Caulerpa in the tank becoming translucent and dying off - more recently a large section of razor Caulerpa disintegrated  completely! The chemistry in my tank is obviously out of whack - could the addition of these products have started the roller-coaster ride? <Would be my first guess.>
Please advise as to what can be done to stabilize things. <Stop the additions for now, do a couple of water changes, and read that article.>
I have started water changes already but need a long term solution for maintaining both calcium and alk without affecting ph. I would prefer not to use Kalkwasser, a liquid supplement looks good to me. <A calcium reactor looks even better to me.>
I have great difficulty obtaining most supplements in my country.
Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Hilton
<Cheers, J -- >

High Calcium & Alk
Hello & Good Day!
<Good day to you>
I’ve read all through the Calcium and Alk FAQs and they’ve added to my confusion.  Here’s the scenario;
Tank is 75gal with 75lbs LR and DSB.  Tank completed it’s cycle 10days ago.  Since then I’ve added 2 dozen snails and 1 dozen hermits over the course of seven days.  A few days ago I decided to start testing Calcium and Alk to see where I stood and to make sure my Coralline was going to do well.
Day 1 of testing Calcium / Alk in main tank = Cal 210, Alk 11.5   So I added some Tropic Marin Bio-Calcium. “Contents are calcium ions, hydrogen carbonate and all 70 trace elements found in natural sea water.”
Day 2 of testing Calcium / Alk in main tank = Cal 300, Alk 13.8    tested Replacement Water ( 10gals ) = Cal 270, Alk 9.9  Added Tropic Marin to both.
Day 3 ( Today ) of testing Calcium / Alk in main tank = Cal 315, Alk 15   tested Replacement Water = Cal 255, Alk 12.2
…So…
I –thought- that as one raised the other would lower but it actually looks like both are rising in my main tank.  I’m adding the Tropic Marin as directed but now that my Alk is out of the recommended range I’m leery of adding anymore.
<The Tropic Marin could be raising both.>
What should I do?  Wait a couple days and test again?  Use a product to lower Alk?  If so, what?  I’d like to start placing some actual fish in the system but not until I can understand and handle what I’ve bitten off so far.
Thanks for your time!
Scott
<I would start by doing several large water changes (25%-50%) over the next 7 to 10 days, without adding supplements.  This should dilute the imbalance.  Then resume supplementation with a 2part calcium supplement, Tropic Marin, or Kalk.  Best Regards, Gage>

- Ca KH difficulty -
Hello all, I hope all is well. <And hello to you, JasonC here...> My question is in regard to my difficulty maintaining alkalinity and calcium levels.  My readings are as follows: Alk 11 deg, Ca 340, pH via pinpoint 7.90 prior to lights on 8.2 just prior to lights off, 0 ammonia, <10 nitrate.  In a 75 gal tank + 5 in the sump I do 6 gal weekly water changes with buffered aged DI prepared water (pH 8.3, 13 kH).  The only stony I have is an E. divisa, and I maintain a medium sized crop of Hailmeda (growing like crazy, using significant Ca) along with 90lbs nicely covered live rock, star and button polyps and some mushrooms.  I am trying to maintain pH above 8.3 (I want to utilize a Xenia scrubber), Ca around 400 and KH of 13.  In order to keep the measurements I have, I find myself needing to dose 1/4 tsp. calcium hydroxide via the slurry method, and 2 tsp. Seachem reef buffer daily (in excess of Seachem directions).  I wouldn't be so concerned except for the fluctuating and depressed pH. <I would be looking for sources... things that would lower your pH - large amounts of Halimeda could contribute via respiration over night... likewise, this could be a calcium vacuum for you, you might want to keep the stuff in check, perhaps sell/trade some back to your LFS. Also, if your house has been closed tight all winter, you might try opening a window or two and freshen the air in the house - this sometimes gives temporary help.> I monitor pH continuously and test parameters 3 times weekly. Is there something I am missing or should I continue to test/increase buffering and slurrying? <In your case, with the pH as low as it is in the morning, you could do some real harm with a sudden pH shock by adding a slurry... you might be better off slowly dripping the same slurry overnight, which would help offset the pH drop.>
Thank you for all of you advise in the past.
Ed in NJ
<Cheers, J -- >

- Low Calcium Redux -
Jason, many thanks! <My pleasure.> A final point: You suggested,
<<I'm not real familiar with the Tropic Marin Bio-Calcium, but I'm pretty sure it's calcium carbonate along with a bunch of other stuff... quite likely that this is what has your alkalinity where it is now.>>
Yes, that could be it...or, it could be all the buffer I've been adding: Kent's Superbuffer - dKH. <Ahh... you left that detail out before, that would also bring up the alkalinity.> I have been adding 1 1/2 scoops every other day. I think it wise to cut way back on the buffer additive for now, and take readings to make sure the dKH doesn't drop too far.  Make sense? <Yes, good plan.> Thanks again, Jason.
Best,
Ralph
<Cheers, J -- >

Interesting pH question
Bob,
<Anthony Calfo in his stead. Bob travels to Hawaii this month, my friend>
I almost had a fish holocaust yesterday caused by a dead Halimeda polluting my tank.  
<quite possibly a vegetative act of sexual reproduction like we experience with Caulerpa (the Halimeda looked bleached and speckled afterwards yes?). This is caused by not pruning the colony adequately/often enough (allowing it to complete a life cycle) ... and/or... not doing adequate water changes and/or supplementation of biominerals (Calcium/Alkalinity) to keep up with the demand of a growing colony. Heed these needs and you can easily enjoy such algae in the future>
Water turned green and cloudy and anemone turned stringy.  Fish not happy!  I removed the offender and did a massive (30%) water change and waited to hope things cleared up.  I have a refugium algae filter and live rock as my main filtering mechanisms.  Everything is clear and the fish and anemone are looking really good this morning.  Phew!
<very good to hear. Water changes are life savers <G>>
I have always had low ph (7.9 measured in the AM).  My hardness runs around 3-4 meq/L.  
<the pH is indeed low, but the ALK is fine>
Calcium before the incident was 380.  
<no problem... a whisker flat. If the dosing of such minerals is inconsistent though to get these averages... that would be part of the calcareous algae problem (dosing small amounts of Calcium daily, yes?)>
The Halimeda was new and the water parameters are not terrible for it, so it was probably just not a healthy specimen.  
<more likely stress induced if not a lack of pruning. If not the above, then perhaps the addition of a few gallons of freshwater for evap top-off in the tank recently causing a saline differential suddenly>
There is another Halimeda from the same shipment that is vibrant green--another verification of the water quality.
<not a fair indicator... different stages of life cycle possible here>
Anyhow, I would like the ph higher for my sanity.  
<agreed>
I have a nice coral substrate, but getting old.  
<over 18-24 months needs some exchanging/refreshing>
So I started replenishing it with new aragonite sand about a month ago.  I thought that might help with the water parameters, but the ph is still about the same.  (As an interesting side note, I used to have ridiculously high Ca as measured by my Seachem kit.  Now I figure that was due to a not very good quality saltwater mix.  I have switched to Instant Ocean.)
<very good... agreed with the move>
I thought with this large water change that the ph might budge higher a little.  It didn't.  I had to make up new saltwater yesterday after doing all of these water changes.  After testing the tank ph this morning, I ran out to my garage and tested the pH of the water that has now been heating and mixing in my trusty Rubbermaid for almost 24 hours.  It measured 7.8!!  I'd like to fix the pH of my synthetic saltwater before I even think of tackling the pH in the tank. I use tap water that is pretty hard.  I fill the container, add my salt and Amquel and allow it to mix with a powerhead and heat for about a week with the lid on the barrel to prevent evaporation before using.  This lasts me several water changes usually.  I don't usually test the ph, figuring the synthetic salt should take care of this.  
<agreed/largely>
Could the lid on the container been preventing gas exchange, keeping the ph down?
<in any vessel yes... but what of the display tanks low pH? Test any/all by aerating a glass of saltwater outside for 6-12 hours and seeing if you get any pH increase>
What should be the procedure?  Should I buffer it with baking soda prior to adding the salt?  
<depends on the pH/hardness of the freshwater you are using>
If I keep the lid slightly open, don't I then have to worry about salinity due to evaporation?
<very little concern here... do encourage good gas exchange>
I don't usually do any Kalkwasser dosing or anything.  I do have a Kent 2-part calcium  buffer around when from when I first set up the refugium and the Ecosystem folks said that I might have to dose calcium with this set up.  I got it just in case, but haven't really used it.
<I would strongly encourage Kalkwasser use... and strongly discourage any liquid calcium (chloride) long term usage [much info in our archives and out on the 'Net about the dangers of using liquid calcium long term... problems often after a good 8 months or more]>
Thanks again for all of your help.  You have made my aquarium hobby much more enjoyable. Linda
<with kind regards, Anthony>

Halimeda going vegetative and Kalkwasser 5/19/03
Anthony, Sorry to think you might be Bob.  He answered me about a monster sea cuke a few days ago (don't worry, it has found a new home...).
<no worries... we all share a communal mailbox and all help as/when needed <G>>
> <more likely stress induced if not a lack of pruning. If not the
> above, then perhaps the addition of a few gallons of freshwater for  evap top-off in the tank recently causing a saline differential  suddenly>
Bingo!!! The LFS guy told me my salinity, at 1.025, was a little high.  I have been attempting to lower it over the last few days and got it to between 1.022-1.023, but now realize that it was too fast for the tank's occupants.
<Ahh, yes. A common catalyst. Have done this myself...heehee>
Normally, I top-off my tank (about 45 gallons) every few days with 1 gallon of freshwater treated with Amquel.  I put the Amquel in the bucket then simply pour water from the aerating sink tap into the bucket very fast.  This is allowed to sit for at least 15 minutes and then poured directly into my pump return chamber that feeds directly into the display area of my tank.
<just curiously... was the affected Halimeda near to the outlet/return? Makes matters worse/argument/diagnosis stronger>
Whatever is leftover is left in the open bucket under the tank for top off another day.  I hope this works because I hate to have to add even the noise from a small air pump to my small house just to bubble the make-up water! I have no corals, but do have live rock and some inverts and macroalgae in the refugium and a few up front in the display (if they survive my abuses).  Low maintenance is really important to me, which is why I went for the algae scrubber filter to begin with.
I tried to find everything about the Kalkwasser slurry from the faq's and I will go get your book and skim through that section.
<do use a keyword search for "Kalkwasser slurry" on google for our website, if you haven't found the excerpt. Its on one or two of the FAQ pages>
Can I modify my top-off regimen by mixing up the Kalkwasser in the 1 gallon bucket to create the slurry and then pouring in to top-off at night after the lights are out every night?  
<not really... a slurry is made in a small glass of cold/cool water and shot in immediately... no Kalk (slurry or super saturated solution) can be left exposed to air (as in open bucket) as it forms insoluble calcium carbonate (the chalky sheen on the surface of the water) and wastes Kalk>
Do I need a digital pH meter or will an accurate testing kit suffice (I have the Seachem Multitest)?  
<a digital meter will be highly recommended if doing the slurry method... else simply use Kalk in a slow drip of supersaturated solution. That will likely be fine in your case here with a lower demand in the tank for calcium (sans corals)>
How long do I wait to check the pH change for each slurry addition?  If I haven't been dosing calcium up until now, how do I know what the daily Ca dose should be for a healthy tank, knowing that I also am trying to get the pH up (recall it is around 7.9 currently).
<all explained at length in the archives my friend... my apologies for the redirect, my friend... but we struggle to deal with the volume of mail we get every day and must rely on our archives rather than rewrite popular topics over>
What is the best way to raise the pH in a Rubbermaid barrel full of low pH saltwater mix?  I left the power head on all day with the lid off and it is still just as low.  Can/should I just use baking soda?  
<baking soda (small amounts slowly) is usually all one needs... Kalk helps afterwards in the tank>
I thought Instant Ocean has buffers to equalize things?  
<sort of... but you/we must understand that the formula is fixed, our source waters among users across the world (and even seasonally with a single user) varies widely. We must be realistic and make adjustments for our individual needs in some cases based on this>
All the water has in it now is Amquel and IO mix... Linda
<have you read this article yet, my friend:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm
perhaps a good primer. Kind regards, Anthony>

Water Chemistry: Alk and pH 5/23/03
hi Anthony I need some advise on this  I started to use reef advance and reef builder  for one week then I tested ph, ca, alk, this is results ph 9.0, ca 440ppm, alk 5.03, so I think ph and alkalinity are way too high. It has been one month and a half and thinks do not go down what can I do to lower alk  I thank you again Genaro
<agreed... please do at least 2 large water changes (30-50%) in the next 7-10 days to dilute the skewed water chemistry. Then resume a more sensitive schedule of supplementation (smaller doses and tested more often). Do read here if you haven't yet:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm
best regards, Anthony>

Kalk Slurry question- 6/4/03
Hello Folks, this question is for Anthony if possible.  I am using his "Kalk slurry" method of adding calcium.  It is a 90G tank with a 4 -5 DSB and 90lbs. of live rock.  It is a very new tank, only a month or so old, but with a mix of existing rock from a 5+ year old tank, it cycled quickly.  Right now it only has live rock in it, nothing else.  I add 3/4 of a teaspoon of Kalk in a cup of cold RO water and stir it up and pour it in, takes about a minute.  This is done about 7 am.  It takes the PH from 8.2 to 8.4.  Lights come on around 3:00 pm.  Now if I needed to add more Kalk, could I?  
<you can indeed (several daily in high demand tanks... aged and mature with fast coral growth). But in this case... it is doubtful if you even need the 3/4 teaspoon daily. Check the accuracy of your test kit if it says otherwise.>
The PH is at 8.4 when the lights are on, so I can't imagine I should dose more,
<agreed>
but the calcium level is doesn't want to go above 320, with a KH of 11.  
<ahhh...there's your problem, bud. High alk and high Ca are very difficult , if even natural, to maintain concurrently. Read here and all will be revealed <G>:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm >
I use Instant Ocean salt.  I have the same problem in my older tank and I had tested the Magnesium levels in that one, they are about 3x the calcium level.  What else can I do?  
<the problem is the ALK, my friend. Let it stray down towards 8 or 9 dKH and you will then see you Ca rise without changing a thing. As it is now, you are just precipitating it>
I don't want to drip and I can't afford a Calcium Reactor right now.  Your help would be greatly appreciated.
<no worries... heed the "marble analogy" in the article/link above. Best regards, Anthony>

- Calcium Question -
Hi,
<Hello, JasonC here...>
I realize you guys are inundated with questions regarding calcium and alkalinity, but I've decided to add a few more if you don't mind.  I've got a 30 g reef tank moderately stocked with many types of mushroom corals, polyps, a leather and colt coral, and Xenia.
Recently I've been trying to raise calcium levels b/c after testing w/ a kit I found they were about 260 mg/L.  I've been adding b-ionic, Kalkwasser and also SeaChem reef calcium.  With all these additions, the calcium levels don't raise much but I've found my alkalinity went to the top of the chart (Salifert test) and this goes back to normal levels after about 2 days.  My coralline algae on the back of the tank has started turning a bright pink color and is spreading all over the tank, which I take as a good sign. <Indeed.>
First of all, is it normal for the alkalinity to spike so high yet the calcium levels don't change? <Not necessarily 'normal' but is predictable.> The polyps retract (including the Xenia) when I add these supplements and after a few hours they come back out. <You are probably adding too much at one time... should meter out over the course of the day.>
What would you recommend to bring the calcium levels to where they should be? <Depends on the makeup of your system. If I were to just hazard a guess, I'd bet you don't have a lot of substrate or live rock - natural sources of alkaline reserve.> Should this be spaced out over days or done at once? <Always best to make additions/changes slowly.>
Finally, I notice the tank does much better when I do a water change (about 5 g ever 2 wks) then with any supplement I put in the tank.  Is this always the case? <Not always... but seems to be in your instance.> Or can one figure out a supplement regiment that has the same effect? <Sure, but I'd be looking to stabilize the alkalinity first... calcium will fall into line after that. Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm >
Thanks for your help, Ben
<Cheers, J -- >

Water parameter problems 6/20/03
I have a 6 month old 120 gallon tank with 30 gallon sump.  My water ph and ca stay low constantly - 8.01/350 respectively. While my alk is sky high 13.4 dKH.  
<the ALK is high... getting a bit dangerous in fact and directly related to why your Ca is low. Read more here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm>
Other parameters as follows water temp 80, phosphate .4,Nitrite 0,
Nitrate 0,ammonia 0, sg 1.022.  I have 2 clowns and a flame angel, and several soft corals.  I have been using a 2 part ca additive regularly (Calxmax).  
<hmmm... if using the two part product and still with an imbalance, it tells us one of two things: 1) you started dosing the tank without adjusting the water first (2 parts only carry on balanced supplementation of a balanced aquarium... cannot magically correct an imbalance), or 2) dosing of the supplements has been done without vigorously mixing/shaking the products with every use... they settle by density in the bottle and can skew your chemistry is dosed this way>
Thanks for any suggestions. Kevin
<do read in our archives too (google search from WWM home page) about opening a window and aerating the tank to take care of depressed pH. Very common. Best regards, Anthony>

Calcium and alk stuff!
Hello crew! Thank you in advance for your help! You have helped setup my reef tank over the last year and now it is quite nice! Your help has been invaluable.
I had let my reef tank go several months without checking the Calcium or alkalinity. <Shame, shame, shame.> When I first checked it last week, it was at nearly 700 ppm Calcium, an alkalinity of 1.8 meq/L, and a pH of 7.9. <Ew> This occurred because I was using a SeaChem's line of reef additive without testing the results. I never added a buffer solution! <Yep> My first corrective action was to buy Kent's buffer solution and raise the alkalinity to 4.0 meq/L. I also started using your "Lime Slurry" method. I started adding ¼ of a teaspoon to 16 oz of pure RO water and then added this to my tank in the AM before lights on. I increased this daily while checking the pH with a digital pH probe. Now I am adding 1 teaspoon the same way and my pH only increased this morning from 7.95 to 8.06. Also this morning my calcium was down to 595 ppm and my alkalinity is 4.0 meq/L. <Sounds good to me, although the calcium seems abnormally high for that alk level> Adding 1 teaspoon a day is raising my pH slowly and I will continue until I reach a peak pH (just before lights out) of 8.35. <Why? Your calcium and alk levels are already very high. Don't be so concerned with the pH number, it's more important that it isn't swinging all over the place. During the day, my pH hovers around 8.0, it's very common.> At that time I will stop adding everything and determine my daily Calcium usage just like I read on the WWM website! I use SeaChem's test kits and receive very consistent results. My source for the Calcium Hydroxide is Ball's "pickling lime". I read on WWM site that you CAN and CAN NOT use baking soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) to buffer the water. Can you explain when it is acceptable and when it is not acceptable to use it? <See below> Can you also explain the best method for adding it? <Dissolve in purified water then pour in sump (if you don't have a sump, dissolve it good and slowly pour it into an area of high flow)> What I read on WWM was that there would be an ionic mis-balance caused by using baking soda. What is that about?
<Here's an little blurb from http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alkalinity.htm
"Baking soda, sodium bicarbonate, is a significant portion of most dry mixes of sea buffer. I do not recommend using sodium bicarbonate alone for most aquarists, especially new and less experienced individuals, without the strong admonition that it can raise pH quickly and dangerously without due caution. Baking soda should only be used in small portions when water quality can be tested frequently."
I'm not sure about it creating any sort of an ionic mis-balance, but it is very commonly used with great success. >
I am a chemical engineer and have a decent understanding of a reef's chemistry and I need more explanation before I can accept this statement. I only used the Kent buffer because I had a gross alkalinity mis-balance and did not want to take any chances while correcting it. Now that I am at a stable point I want to start using baking soda to buffer my reef. <A better way to do this is to pick up a balanced calcium and alk supplement (such as ESV's b-ionic, Kent's Tech CB, Two little fishies C-Balance, etc). Otherwise you'll be going back and forth trying to balance these levels.> What is the affect of Boron when buffering? <You don't have to go out of your way to add it, there is usually an overabundance in our systems anyways.> biweekly water changes keep enough Boron in the system to prevent this "ionic mis-balance"? <You got it> I plan on adding the Sodium Bicarbonate in my automatic top water system. Do you see a problem with this? <Nope, but why don't you use the Kalkwasser in it instead?> Do you have a suggestion for determining the right amount of Sodium Bicarbonate to add?
<Randy Holmes-Farley wrote an excellent article about this and other stuff in Advanced Aquarist: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm
You'll find how much to add in that article. -Kevin>
Thank you and happy reef watching!  Jeff

Ozone and Alkalinity Question - 8/10/03
Dear WWM crew,
<howdy>
My 240 gallon tank is currently running at 375 mv to 398 mv without my Clearwater ozone generator turned on (last several days).  
<very fine>
The ozone is set to turn on at 345 mv.  
<And your hi-point is set for just under 400 I presume?>
If I understand it from Bob's book, that over 400 mv is dangerous to the life in my tank.
<rather... it's the high end of the safe zone. Agreed>
My tests for alkalinity yield 14.0 dKH.  My calcium is 350.  Any advice or suggestions?
<your ALK is too high... do let that stray down to a ceiling of 12dKH. The calcium is fine however. No need to fixate on specific numbers... just stay stably within a range>
Current parameters:
Ph ranges from 8.28 in the a.m. to 8.4 in the p.m.
Calcium Reactor effluent Ph is 6.78
Ammonia=0
Nitrites=0
Nitrates=25
Salinity=1.026
Temperature=80 (temperature is controlled)
300 lbs live rock in display, small amount of live rock in refugium.  Live rock teaming with copepods and amphipods. Several white Syconoid sponges present on the rock. Small amount of coral gravel (1 to 2") in display and refugium. Good amount of macro algae in refugium. (Light on 24/7)
<all fine>
Fish=Picasso trigger (In sump waiting for a home), blue tang, 3 yellow tangs,6 blue/green Chromis, 6 line wrasse, watchman goby, green mandarin and scooter blenny.
Corals=torch coral, brain coral, cabbage coral, colt coral, Kenya tree coral, button polyps.
Inverts=Crocea clam, bubble tip anemone, cleaner shrimp, coral banded shrimp, tube anemone (in refugium), several hermits and a few snails.
<dreadful to see the anemone mixed in with sessile cnidarians/corals... do reconsider removing to a species tank or ancillary tank at least (very risky long-term as a motile cnidarians... unnatural too)>
Additional equipment=Acrylic tank with corner overflows, 3-175 w 10k M.H. w 2 - 95w blue actinic VHO's, CS8-4 Euro reef skimmer, 4 maxi jet 1200 powerheads in display tank and 2 Mag 1200 return pumps.
<you have a fine system overall... no worries. Best regards, Anthony>