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FAQs on Foods/Feeding/Nutrition, Frequency
Related Articles: Foods/Feeding/Nutrition
By Bob Fenner &
Marine
Nutrition, Probably the most overlooked component of proper fish keeping
By Aaron Loboda,
Feeding a
Reef Tank: A Progressive Recipe by Adam Blundell,
Culturing Food Organisms,
Related FAQs: Foods/Feeding/Nutrition 1,
Foods/Feeding/Nutrition 2, Foods/Feeding/Nutrition
3, Foods/Feeding/Nutrition 4, Foods/Feeding/Nutrition
5, Foods/Feeding/Nutrition
6, & FAQs on Foods/Feeding/Nutrition: Kinds,
Amounts, Feeding Methods/Techniques/Tools,
Automated Feeding,
Holiday/Vacation Feeding,
Medicated/Augmented Foods/Feeding,
Feeding/Food Problems,
Products
by Brand Names/Manufacturers... & Brine Shrimp, Algae
as Food, Vitamins, Nutritional
Disease, Frozen Foods, Coral Feeding,
Anemone Feeding, Growing
Reef Corals, Culturing Food Organisms, Butterflyfish
Foods/Feeding/Nutrition, |
Species, system, even individual specific... Depends on
activity level, ambient temperature... even your desires... for
more/less activity, color, health... reproduction.
Best to be regular... re times, places, types of foods offered.
|
Feeding schedule 12/14/05
Hi to our kind and knowledgeable aquarist!
<Hiya Joel! You got crewmember Lorenzo today.>
Once again, I want to express how grateful I am for the fountain of information on the WWM site. <We do our best. Thanks for the kudos.>
I directly attribute much of my success with my reef tank to the wealth of articles and FAQs on WWM. My question is about feeding. Other than WWM, all my sources for info about fish food are trying to sell me more food. So, I would love for you to evaluate my feeding plan. I have a 55 gallon corner tank (about 7 months old) with a 4" -5" DSB with sugar-fine aragonite and 75 lbs of LR. I use SeaChem Reef Complete and Reef Plus twice a week and 5 gallon water changes every two weeks. My stock is as follows:
3" Diamond goby
1" yellow clown goby
3 turbo snails
4 Nassarius snails
emerald crab
3" crocea clam
pink and green cucumber
brittle star
4 stalks pulsing xenia
blue mushrooms
yellow and brown polyps
2 big feather dusters
pink coco worm
green/ purple Fungia plate coral
Galaxea coral (about 2 1/2")
2 branching hammer coral heads (frags, about 1 1/2" to 2")
I feed the tank every other day (during which I shut off the sump w/ filter sock and skimmer for one hour). I feed one cube of Ocean nutrition frozen food <Wow! A whole cube, for two little fish and a handful of
inverts? That's quit a bit of food...> (alternating each feeding between Formula
One, Brine Shrimp Plus, and Prime Reef) <Good idea, variety is important.> along with
1/2 ounce of DT phytoplankton and 1/5 teaspoon DT oyster eggs. I use a turkey
baster to make sure the mix of foods gets spread throughout the tank. I just don't know whether the Ocean Nutrition is good stuff <It certainly is.> and
if the variety is beneficial or not. <Definitely.> Is it ok to only feed every other day? <Sure.> I know less is more when it comes to feeding <To a certain
degree...>, but I wonder if I should feed every day <Probably.>, and just do
phyto and frozen one day and oyster eggs the next. <Alternation is good, but the fish will appreciate being
fed every day.> The skimmer works fine, and the only nuisance algae I have is some hair algae on some of the LR. <Less food, but more
frequently, might help keep this under control.> I'd like a refugium, but my
sump is just an open aquarium with no dividers, so I am hesitant to grow algae
down there. <Not too hard to rig up a fenced-off area by putting a smaller
container into the sump. You just want to make sure the algae can't clog the
return pump.> Except for one xenia stalk (I think he was to close to a hammer coral and got zapped) <Could be.>,
everything seems fine. Overall coral color has slightly improved with introduction of the oyster eggs. <Glad to hear it!> I am going to add two
pajama cardinals from my quarantine tank <Good on you for performing quarantine!> in
two weeks, and I would love an informed analysis of my techniques beforehand.
<These guys would definitely like to eat every day. No need to set the tank
awash in food though!>
Thanks so much,
<Any time. Cheers, Zo.>
Joel Schwartz
Feeding In General...Mixed Bag - 06/07/06
I have a 225 gallon tank with (in tank ruler order) 1) 7" Male Naso Tang 2)
4" Blue Dot Grouper 3) 5" Purple Tang 4) 5" Desjardini Tang
I have the following questions.
1) How often should they be fed, and how much food? Meaning specifically, how
many sheets of seaweed selects (I feed them the brown, red and green normally in
combination) should I feed daily and at what intervals?
<Fish should be fed slowly until not interested, and twice a day would be
fine. No set amount on number of sheets to feed.>
2) How do you soak the algae, as I heard that you should always soak it in
garlic, Selcon and vita chem (to prevent illness), but do you wring it out
before placing it in the tank? Wont the tank just wash the vitamins and garlic
and Selcon out of the algae within a minute or two of being on the clip in the
tank?
<Not necessary to use more than one vitamin supplement. Selcon would be my
choice, and I'd use the garlic twice a week. The fibers in the food will retain
some of the vitamin supplement. No need to wring it out.>
3) How many of New Life Spectrum's Thera +A for large fish pellets should I feed
them and how often?
<As above.>
Should I soak these also as they don't break down to easy in water?
<You can. What do the container instructions indicate?>
5) Is brine shrimp not worth feeding the fish? I heard that they are like potato
chips for fish, and therefore not nutritious at all? Should I switch them to
mysis shrimp that is soaked in the Selcon, VitaChem and garlic? If brine shrimp
are ok to feed them, should I soak them as well?
<Very little nutritional value in brine shrimp. Mysis is fine and you can soak
in a vitamin complex.>
4) Is it possible to have too much current in a tank? I have an Iwaki 100mdrlt
pump for the return at 10' of head, hooked to a wavy sea plus wavemaker (which I
love). I also have a Rio 2100+ powerhead in the tank pushing 692 gph. Is this
too much current?
<In your tank I would want a total water movement of at least 2,300gph. Yes,
you can have too much current. Total water flow exceeding 15X the tank
volume isn't necessary.>
5) I have a sump full of red Gracilaria and Chaetomorpha, should I feed them
this as well? I have tried the red Gracilaria (via hooking to a clip) but they
don't like it? What advise do you have in terms of how much to feed, and how to
feed? Should it be soaked in Selcon, vita chem, and garlic?
<Probably won't like the Chaeto either. You need to stop repeating
yourself..."how to feed, how much to feed".
6) My 7" male Naso has a bloated belly always, I don't know if it is because I
refill his clip 3 times a day with about 8 sheets of seaweed selects each day?
<Wowsie, way too much food. Tangs should look slightly round looking at them
head-on, not like a turkey.>
Is he over-eating?
<No, you are overfeeding.>
If it is not, could it be dropsy? I will add pictures to this post tomorrow.
<Please do, we love pics.>
7) Should I add Zoecon to the list of pre-soaking items for the tang food?
<You have all you will need.>
8) I feed the 4" blue dot grouper 1 silverside a day stuffed with about 5 New
Life Spectrum's Thera +A for large fish pellets and I soak the fish in garlic
extreme, vita chem and Zoecon. I alternate days with krill done this way on one
day, and the next day it is a silverside. Is this enough food for him? Is this a
complete diet?
<Yes and Yes.>
Thanks again and I LOVE your site. It is the best on the web by far!
<Thank you, continue to enjoy. Keep in mind, there is much information on the
site regarding feeding...Do search/read. James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks again for your help!
<You're welcome.>
Greg R.
Re: Feeding In General... Mixed Bag 6/8/06
How do I measure the tank's total current to come up with the recommended
amount? If the return pump pumps at 1500 gph, the overflow is 1400 gph and a
692 gph power head on a 6' x 24" x 30" tank? Thanks again, you are an asset to
the fish community and should be carried through the streets as a hero!
<Mmm, afraid of falling, Bob may want the honor.> <<Heeee, though am "stature
challenged", I too don't like heights... RMF>>
<It will be the total flow in the display tank only. If you have a return pump
rated at 1500 and a power head at 692, you have a total flow of 2192, a little
shy if we look at multiplying 225x15=3379 or 225x10=2250. Somewhere in this
range would be ideal. Keep in mind, you will have to subtract head pressure
loss from your return pump. That info should be in your user manual. If not,
go here. http://www.reefcentral.com/calc/hlc2.php>
Thanks again
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Feeding/Schedule 7/28/06
Good morning.
<And to you.>
This is one of those questions that I seem to find multiple different answers
for (including from your site), so I'm trying to tap your expertise to get a
specific answer for my system, if I may. I have a 36 gallon bowfront mini-reef
with HOB skimmer and filter, 2 powerheads in the back corners pointed toward the
front at roughly 90 degrees to each other, and 4 small fish with 3.5" DSB, 50#
live rock, with several softies (star polyps, yellow polyps, mushroom), and a
branching anchor. All is fine, but I have a nagging question about feeding. I
presently turn off the skimmer and HOB filter for my one time daily feeding in
the evening, and leave the powerheads running which blows the food
around. Should the powerheads be on or off for feeding, and should it be the
same routine everyday or maybe one day with them off and another day on to vary
the flow (and food) distribution around the corals?
<I'd leave the powerheads on, could shut the filter off...up to you. I do not
shut anything off when I feed.>
I've also read about putting the powerheads on timers for a "tide" effect. I
have some spare timers around, and I could do this if it helps. Is there a
benefit to alternating the powerhead flow, and is there a benefit to a period of
"quiet time" at night or in the early morning to have both powerheads off?
<What you've read are about "wave timers" which turns powerheads on/off at a
user selected frequency. They can be set to go on/off as much as 60 times per
hour. Household timers aren't much good in this regard. Aquarium Systems makes
a inexpensive wave timer ($50-60> that can run up to four power heads. These
units work best when using at least three powerheads. In my opinion, wave
timers are beneficial to corals as they create a cleansing effect with to and
fro motion of the water. If considering a wave maker timer, it is not necessary
to buy the expensive units that are available. Just wasting money as they work
no better than the Aquarium Systems unit. Incidentally, most power heads do not
work well with frequent cycling. The Aquarium Systems powerheads do.>
I presently have plenty of flow between the 2 powerheads and HOB filters
(roughly 20x tank volume/hr). Thanks!!!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
PS> Thanks your for all your help, and for the easy access to your accumulated
knowledge. At this point, I've gotten into this hobby solo out of a great deal
of interest, and your website has been my most reliable source of info, as I
haven't had time to get involved in any local clubs....
Feeding Frequency, Feeding grandma at the all you can eat buffet?!
1/8/07
Hello,
<Hi Jay! Mich here.>
In my aquarium I have a Sailfin Tang a Maroon and Gold Clown, 2 Engineering
Gobies, a six-line wrasse, and a purple grandma.
<WOW! You have a purple grandma in your tank! Where do you keep grandpa?>
Along with, some zoos, some star polyps, a moon brain, a tree leather, and a
candy.
Also a Sebae anemone and some other misc. inverts. I have been feeding them a
cube of prime reef, a cube of emerald mix, and 1/2 a cube of brine shrimp twice
daily.
<Holy all you can eat buffet Batman! Grandma must be pretty hungry!>
From what I have read on your site that is obviously too much, I was hoping you
would be able to suggest a proper feeding regimen, at least as a baseline to
work from, as my nitrates were 160ppm and after a water changed dropped to about
60ppm (I will probably be doing another 30% water change tomorrow.
<Yikes!>
My Nitrites however still present also dropped from 1 to .25.
<You want to get this down and keep it at zero.>
Everything else tests perfect (can't test for ammonia, need to get a new kit).
<Well, as you know you are overfeeding by several orders. You should feed no
more than what your fish will eat in five minutes, while the tank circulation is
shut down. I would suggest starting with 1/4 of a cube of anything but the
brine shrimp as they have little to offer as far as nutritional value. You can
feed twice daily, but only what they can eat in five minutes. You may also want
occasionally offer your tang some Nori (available at grocery stores as it is
used for sushi) or other dried seaweed fish foods. I am hoping you tank is
quite large as Sailfin Tangs (Zebrasoma veliferum) can reach up to 15.7 inches
long and should be housed in tanks that are at least 135 gallons in volume.>
Thanks for your continued help.
<Welcome. -Mich>
Jay
Feeding Habits 2/5/04
How often should I feed my inverts/corals? I don't have many. 1 - Rose Anemone, 1 Flame Scallop, Pumping Xenia, Brain, Bubble, Green Star Polyps. That is I also have a blue tang and cleaner shrimp, some hermits and two huge snails, and a sand sifting star.
That's it at this point. I only feed the fish, shrimp, anemone every other day.
<The fish should probably be fed daily. The anemone, open brain and bubble probably should be fed at least once a week. More is fine, but probably not necessary. Generally, shrimp will get by on missed fish food if you feed every day.>
During this time I am also feeding the corals and inverts two teaspoons of marine snow or a pinch of
Cyclop-eeze. I alternate between the two to give them a variety.
<None of your corals is likely benefiting directly from the addition of Marine Snow or
Cyclop-eeze. None of what you listed has the type of polyps to capture such food. The flame scallop may be getting some benefit from the small amount of phyto plankton in marine snow, but unfortunately it is probably not enough. Most flame scallops perish of starvation within a few weeks-months.>
I have a 40 gallon breeder and have a slime problem. Trying to get to the root of it and overfeeding is a concern. Do you think I am feeding the corals/inverts too often? How often should I feed them and how much based on my current livestock. I would consider all to be small to medium
sizes. Thanks, Rob
<See above for feeding recommendations. Slime algae is often caused by lack of water movement and low alkalinity as much as high nutrients. Water movement equal to 10x the tank volume is a good rule of thumb. Alkalinity of 3-4.5
meq or 9-12 dKH along with good water movement will help prevent the slime from growing and favor the growth of coralline
algae. Do directly address the issue of nutrients, you will have to write back and describe your filtration and water change routine as well as provide the results for as many of the following tests as you can: Salinity, temp, pH, Alkalinity, ammonia, nitrate and phosphate. Best Regards. Adam
Feeding intervals
here I am reading an article on reefs.org about hair algae and the author
writes this..."Another thing to do is to check out your skimmer. It should
first of all be big enough for the tank, and secondly, it should be pulling
out a really dry foam.; This will help to get out some things before they can
break down and cause problems. Also cut down on overfeeding. You should only
feed about twice a week. Kalkwasser will help too. You should dose that stuff
every other night, and mix it fresh every other time (actually, every time
would be better).".....the part of question is the twice a week feeding
bit, little generalized, in my ongoing battle with hair algae I assume I don't
overfeed, marine flakes (HBH, Ocean Nutrition and "rich mix" for
something
diff.) a couple times a day (very small amounts that the fish immediately
consume), as well as blood worms at the end of the day (or brine shrimp, I know
of no value), some raw tiger shrimp every few days, few pieces of freeze dried
krill here and there (lately), is this overfeeding?. with testing all else I'm
still researching the solution, with my fish (if you remember, should I cut
back as this article suggests?...thanks......Riot....
<Do agree with the overgeneralization of the quoted statement. My opinions on
the topic can be read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/feeding.htm
Bob Fenner>
Managing A Busy System
Hey guys,
<Scott F. your guy today!>
Hamish here from the U.K. You've given me invaluable advice in the past, and I'm
back for more! Got a 70 (U.K.) gallon system, tank & sump, biological
filters, fish only system, 4 of them: red-tooth trigger, lipstick tang, rock
beauty & maroon clown. Had the system for a year now, lost only a couple of
fish to stress initially, do 10% water changes every 10 days, and pretty much do
all the necessary work on a daily basis.
<Sounds like a formula for success...Glad the Rock Beauty is doing well! Not
to harp- but I'm sure you know that a larger system is gonna be required down
the line for these fishes...They do grow to substantial sizes!>
My Dad, who lives in Florida, called the other day to say that he'd met a guy
with a huge system, invertebrates and small fish, who said that regular water
changes were a thing of the past, he merely topped up each day to replace
evaporation; not sure when he does any water changes. So what's with that?
<I have to quote Anthony on this one: "Even a blind squirrel finds a nut
sometimes..." Basically, just because this guy seems to have his system
working without following one of the basic aspects of aquarium husbandry. So
what if he has a light bioload...Sure, that helps keep nutrient accumulation
down somewhat, but we're talking about a closed system here. Even with some
forms of nutrient export (i.e.; protein skimming and mechanical filtration), water
exchanges will be required to maintain a viable system for the long term. Trace
elements get depleted, organics accumulate, etc. I really think that this guy is
luckier than good...I certainly wouldn't follow his lead.>
Also, the trigger and tang are about 6 inches long, the other two a
bit smaller. I feed them: 3 1/2 cubes of omega+ brine shrimp each day
(3 sep. feedings), the tang gets a leaf of lettuce, then in the afternoon some
dried seaweed, the trigger and the other two get half a cube of squid, and half
a cube of mussel. For a treat, the trigger occasionally gets a prawn to wolf
down. This all happens on a day when I'm around to do all this, it's
usually a little less, but is it still too much? The reason I'm asking is
because I've just noticed a coating of what appears to be white dust-like spores
over some of the rocks, with tiny little thread-like worms climbing around.
Phoned my dealer, he said it wasn't immediately serious because they weren't on
the fish, it was just a result of excess food in the tank. I do monitor their
feeding, they finish everything I put in there, little and
often is my policy. But are leftovers inevitable, and are these worms going to
jeopardize the health of the fish? My dealer also suggested just giving the
rocks a scrub to remove the bulk of the parasite, but some are easier to move
than others. The rock isn't live. Any advice here would be much appreciated.
Yours, Hamish.
<Well, Hamish- I agree with the "small and often" feeding regimen.
So important to keep heavy eaters fed well. However, the equal obligation is to
engage in strict husbandry procedures. Keep up those regular water changes
(perhaps you might want to consider my semi-obsessive rule of two 5% water
changes per week?), clean all mechanical filter media regularly, and make
liberal use of aggressive protein skimming. As far as the "worms" are
concerned, it's hard to be 100% certain what these are without a photo. However,
I agree with the dealer, in that these (probably harmless) creatures are
multiplying rapidly as a result of increasing nutrients in the system. You
certainly can remove them manually if they get to be annoying. However, I'd like
to solve the "root problem", which is nutrient accumulation. Simply
continue or enhance your good husbandry techniques, and you'll see an
improvement...Good luck! Regards, Scott F>
55 gal with an eel and 2 triggers <Way overcrowded... Ian!>
I looked through the FAQ's first and didn't find my specific question.
So my question is:
I have a Predatory tank.
55 gal. <this aquarium is too small for the two triggers and the eel in the
long run. year or so)>
(2) Triggers. 2" Picasso. 4' Blue Throat.
(1) Eel 18.5" Zebra.
(5) Large Trigger proof hermits.<these hermits will be consumed in time>
Fluval 204 Canister.
W/D SUMP W/Skimmer.
How often to feed them?<once a day...sparingly>
This is such a subjective question, with each LFS, Blog and BBS offering a WIDE
variety of suggestions.
They would eat all day if I let them.<yes they would>
I feed lightly daily for the Triggers and every other day for the eel!?!<that
sounds about right>
Please advise.<good luck, IanB>
Thanks, as always.
-Jake
How often should I feed and fish recommendation - 7/24/03
Thank you, I have a timer set to come on at 4 p.m. and go off at 10:30 P.M.,
but wanted to make sure that was enough for the fish. <Up to you, but I like
8 hours myself>
A couple more questions please. <Sure> Tell me your
recommendation on how many times a day I should feed my fish. The
owner of a local fish store told me once a day was
sufficient. (clowns, dwarf angel, Dottyback) <I would recommend
small feedings of a few to three times a day which means enough food in each
feeding for each fish to get a bit of food. This may take some time to identify
who is getting enough and who isn't without trashing your biological filtration
by overfeeding. My reasoning for the multiple times a day is two fold, natural
to the fish (these fish are very active and constantly exerting energy) and is
more natural to the environment where they come from. They constantly scavenge
for food on the reef. So my methodology is just a natural progression to a more
"realistic" (used loosely) fish regime. Plus, it gives fish, who may
be a little shy about eating, a few chances to grab a bite.>
Also, I have been considering getting a pair of pajama Cardinalfish, but have
read that they won't show themselves much with the light on and will not accept
flake food. <Well, I think compatibility is more the issue here than the
feeding and viewing of your fish. The fish you have are quite active and
excitable. Cardinals in general are typically slow moving, shy, docile fish. In
the right tank these are great fish to have, fairly hardy once established, and
are being commercially farmed (no environmental impact). It doesn't get any
better than that! So I personally would hold off on putting these in a tank with
your current inhabitants if you can. -Paul> Please
advise. Thank you, James
- Feeding Schedule -
I'm trying to get my tank mates on the same feeding schedule; I have a 11 inch
Goldentail moray, 8 inch snowflake, and a 4 - 5 inch miniata grouper... I use to
feed them every other 2 days (ex. if I fed Monday, they'd get fed again
Thursday); Now I moved to 3 days (ex. if I fed Monday, they'd get fed again
Friday)... In your opinion knowing they are still pretty small, which feeding
habit would you recommend? <Once a day... a little less for the grouper,
perhaps every other day.> Also should the grouper be fed more often, or is he
alright with the same schedule? <Think all would be better off with smaller
portions, more often... just be careful with the grouper, it will grow as
quickly as you feed it.> Thank for your time..
<Cheers, J -- >
The skinny on skinny fish
Hello WWM crew! The last time that I wrote Anthony replied to my questions,
THANKS AGAIN!! Hopefully whoever reads this can help me equally as well.
<the rest of the WWM gang is pre-occupied... they are getting a group
bikini-line wax (separately, but paid for on the same check). Anthony Calfo
here... AKA Salty Sasquatch>
So here are the questions. FIRST: The Kole Tang and the Coral Beauty were just
taken from QT and introduced to the tank an hour ago. As soon as I put them in
there my Yellow Tang started chasing both of them around pretty viciously.
<Zebrasoma tangs are funny that way>
I know that the Yellows can be very territorial and I should expect this to
happen initially but should I be worried or planning to take him out of the tank
in the future?
<may just be establishing the pecking order. If it persists after 3 days, do
consider removing the tang. Unless, of course, the tang hires a pufferfish to
carry out the hit for him>
About 20 min. after they were introduced the Yellow seemed to be going to the
other side of the tank and minding his business a little more. He would still
chase them if they came into sight. Opinions and suggestions?
<sounds expected... no worries>
SECOND: My Lyretail Anthias has been doing great since I got him about a month
ago. His colors have been changing nicely and he gets along with everyone in the
tank. Lately I've noticed that he seems to be losing weight and getting really
skinny.
<ahhh... one month later and he's skinny. We may need to redefine "doing
great" in your household <G>. This Anthias has been starving from Go
as most do. They need at least three feedings per day of very high protein food.
Please tell me that brine shrimp was nowhere near its lips and I won't tell you
brine shrimp kills fishes. Just read the nutritional assays of various plankton
substitutes... mysids and Pacifica plankton top the list. Sweetwater plankton is
a good secondary food (vitamins not protein here)>
I feed my fish twice a day and sometimes when I'm at home during the whole day I
add a midday feeding.
<very good my friend... for the Anthias it may just be that it needs denser
fare>
I have read different places that this Anthias tends to eat a lot and needs to
be fed at least three times daily.
<agreed>
How can I plump him back up and not trash my tank at the same time?
<Oreo cookies fatten me up pretty quick. Oh, ya... and 1/2 bottle of homemade
wine daily and sausage helps too.>
Opinions and suggestions?
<yes... don't eat the Oreos, wine and sausage at the same time>
Do you recommend a certain vitamin supplement for my fish (especially tangs!!!-HLLE-) that you can just add to the water?
<none to the water... weakly effective and lazy. Do add Selcon to the food,
though>
Any and all help that you can give would be most appreciated. I look forward to
your reply. Happy Holidays to you guys! Stephen Baker
<Happy holidays, my friend. Anthony>
Beginner Feeding Question
I've had my tank going for about one month now...my question is regarding
feeding...in the article on www.wetwebmedia.com it says to feed the fish 2 or 3
times a day and to feed them what they can
eat in five minutes....I've also been told to feed them once a day what they can
eat in 2 minutes...as well as many times in between. How do I decide which
advice to follow?
<Really it depends on the fish. Groupers and Lionfish should be fed several
times per week. If you have fish that would naturally forage all day for food,
several small feedings each day would be more appropriate. If the food hits the
bottom or gets sucked up into the filters, you gave them too much.>
Thanks for your time, James
<You are quite welcome. -Steven Pro>
Feeding
Hello, just heard from the LFS that I should feed my fish only once every three
days. They say because the live rock provides a lot of the food already. Is this
true?
<it depends on the fish, quality of the rock, health and maturity of the tank
and more. If you tank is less than one year old it is not accurate to apply to
your setup. Best regards, Anthony>
Feeding
I understand that overfeeding is a common problem in aquariums. We feed
our damsels half a cube of brine shrimp a night and flakes in the morning. We heard that they should spend three minutes eating their flakes and when I timed them it only took 56 seconds. We don't have our reef going yet, so they can't eat off of that. Should we be feeding them more?
>>
Not necessarily... rather than more, I would encourage you to make the feedings
more frequent... and maybe add a piece or two of live rock for them to pick at
in-between meals... Smaller amounts more frequently is the route to go with
these constant foragers.
Bob Fenner
Overfeeding fish
Hi Bob! I've written before and have a new question regarding feeding
saltwater fish. Is feeding once a day, enough food to fill the fish,
considered to be overfeeding? I recently lost a bi-color blenny and a flame
angelfish to no other apparent cause. The blenny looked rather fat before he
died. I have been feeding nugget, frozen and flake food.
My current fish in a reef setting are 3 Chromis, Lemonpeel angel, mimic
tang, and 2 ocellaris clownfish. I put Nori in the tank every day for the
angel and tang (they love the Nori). Should I switch feeding to once every
other day, or even twice a week? I need to know, as I don't want to kill any
more fish out of "kindness."
Thanks for your advice, and informative column. Jenny Turco
>>
Thank you for writing... and I sense that you know the answer to your query...
It depends: On the species for instance... Some predators only eat
occasionally... every few days to weeks... and so can easily get by on once,
twice weekly feedings... But the fishes you list are almost continuous browsers
in the wild... and will do much better on being offered something to eat (like
the Nori sheet algae) on an almost continuous basis... hence my suggestion to
place some healthy live rock for them to sample at leisure and for you to feed
them otherwise, at regular intervals, the prepared foods you list... twice a
day.
Bob Fenner, who's getting the munchies come to think of it
250 gallon aquarium foods/feeding
Good Morning Robert, How's Everything ,?
<Fine, but do have the upper-respiratory involvement that's going about...
wowzah, am operating in the 20-40% range...>
I just wanted to thank you for your
advice on my tomato clownfish and my angelfish?
<Oh>
I got one more question for
you, how often should I feed the inhabitants of my aquarium? as you know I
have an adult red Volitans lionfish, an adult longhorn cowfish, a French angel
and a Koran angel, a small harlequin tusk, a clown trigger and a juvenile
Emperor angel , I've got them eating frozen formula cubes by ocean nutrition?
<Okay>
I give them the variety cubes in the two pound bags, how often is enough?
<Some, twice a day>
can I feed every Monday, Wednesday, Friday? or should they be fed everyday if so
how much should I feed them? my lionfish also swallows the cubes whole he's
humongous? is that sufficient for them or do they need other food to eat? I
appreciate your time and consideration in this matter thanks again rob.
<Would seek other, perhaps less expensive fare to augment what you have...
Silversides, human-consumption intended shrimp, mollusks... perhaps even make my
own... as these fishes get larger they will eat you into a/the proverbial poor
house. Bob Fenner>
Re: help please... not feeding a non-cycled setting
Bob,
Can you please clarify something for me?
<Perhaps>
You said not
to feed...even possibly for a few weeks. Don't feed
the fish or anything else? They won't starve?
<Much less likely in your scenario than that they might well be killed by the
present situation of incomplete nutrient cycling... Please read over the section
on "Biological Filtration" on the WWM site... and do look into a
standard "marine aquarium reference book"... simply asking questions
here will not give you enough timely information>
I had a scarlet shrimp die today. The ammonia level
was up again. Can I change the water too much?
<Yes. Too much, too soon will forestall nitrification and its
establishment>
When
I pour water in. the Banggai Cardinal fish thinks the
bubbles are food and tries to eat them...so I know
he's hungry.
Thanks again,
Sara
<If you deem it necessary or "worth the risk" do feed sparingly...
but do understand what you're doing here... and augment the biological
filtration in this system... with old filter media, cured live rock,
old/established substrate... Do you have a livestock-carrying fish store near
you? Other aquarists? Seek their counsel as well. Bob Fenner>
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