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FAQs about Fluorescent Light and Lighting for Marine
Systems, Troubleshooting/Repair
Related FAQs: Fluorescent
Light 1, Fluorescent Light 2,
Fluorescent Light 3, Normal Output (NO),
High Output (HO), Very
High Output (VHO),
Compact
Fluorescents (CFs, PCs), Compact Fluorescents
2, T5, TN Fluorescent Lighting, & FAQs
on Fluorescent: Fixture Selection,
End Caps,
Ballasts,
Regular and High-Output Lamp Selection, PC
Lamp Selection, T-5 Lamp Selection,
Lamp
Life-Span Issues, Power Consumption Issues,
Installation-Wiring,
By Make/Model/Manufacturer: &
Metal
Halide Lighting, Lighting
Marine Invertebrates, LR
Lighting, Tridacnid
Lighting, Small System Lighting,
Related Articles: Fluorescent
Light & Lighting, Spectral
Quality of Various Fluorescent Lamps by Dana Riddle,
T5 Fluorescent Lighting,
Coral
System Lighting,
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Most life can "wait" a few days w/o lighting |
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Light set up dilemma, reef
10/1/08 Hi Crew, <Jessy here> I have a 55 gallon fish and
invertebrates tank with some soft corals (mushrooms, candy cane coral, beginner
Zoanthids). I used to have two 48" VHO fluorescent bulbs. I upgraded to Power
Compacts and bought a Jalli brand retro kit and it holds 4 - 55W bulbs. The kit
also uses two ballasts. <Ok> I have enjoyed the brighter lighting and my
fish and corals are very healthy and doing well. <Good to hear> However, I
have changed the bulbs a couple of times as I have only had the Power Compacts
set up about a year. As you can see from my attached photos, the problem with
this set up is that the plastic holders that the bulb slides into literally
melted and baked onto the plastic bulb end caps from the heat of the bulbs. This
makes changing the bulbs a nightmare. <And dangerous!> As you can see
from my other attached photo is that the white plastic end cap that contains the
pegs stays in the burnt housing and the glass bulb part disconnects from the end
cap. I had to use pliers to pull out the plastic end caps out of the burnt
plastic housing part.<Yikes!> Now, two of the bulbs do not work at all.
Frankly the bulbs are cheaply made as well as the poorly engineered plastic
housing set up that the pegs plug into. I spent a ridiculous amount of money
on the retro kit and the bulbs and now I feel like I have a Mickey mouse set up
that is just not engineered well or made with quality materials. <Sorry to hear
that>Why use rubber/plastic housings to hold such a hot bulb? I like the
brightness of the Power Compacts but I feel like my lighting set up continues to
haunt me when it comes to reliability and quality. <Understandably> I
just want light bulbs that are easy to change out and will not melt the plugs
they sit in!!! Are there any better set ups out there that would fit my hood or
are all of the set ups as poorly designed as this one. < I would highly
recommend a T5 retro fit for your tank. I understand that it means purchasing a
new lighting system, but it will be worth it. T5’s offer much higher PAR value
for the wattage consumed, and run cooler. I ran my entire 90gal mixed reef off
of four 48” 54W T5 bulbs. I estimate that four would be plenty for your 55 gal
tank. From the pictures it looks like mostly softies, and they will thrive under
that lighting. Maybe you could check with your local fish club or on some of the
larger forums and find someone selling a set used to save you some cash. >
Any advice you could provide me would be so much appreciated! Hope that helps,
Jessy> Thanks for your time, Lynne
Re: Light set up dilemma 10/1/08
Hello Jesse, <Hello again> Thank you so much for your speedy reply. I
just want to make sure I understand your response clearly: You think that I
would have a better set up purchasing a T5 Retrofit kit with only 4 - 48" 54
Watt bulbs? <Four would be plenty> Also, my lights are close to the top of my
tank that is an open acrylic tank. Which means the lights and the fixtures they
plug into get wet from the salt evaporation. <It happens> Should I be putting
some kind of glass or piece of acrylic over the water to prevent salt-water
evaporation from getting on my lights and fixtures?? <You won’t be able to
protect lights unless you get an actual T5 4-bulb fixture with the shield built
in.> My acrylic tank has a large cut out on the top of it and I have
refrained from covering it with a piece of glass because I didn't want it to
affect the lighting going into the tank and prevent oxygen exchange. <I
agree> BUT because the water level is only about 4-5 inches below the
lights this means that whatever kind of lights that I have gets wet with salt
water evaporation. This damages the lights and makes for a dangerous and
corrosive situation. <Your logic is reasonable but this is how many people have
their tanks set up and very rarely do they have issues. It is just a matter of
keeping your lighting cleaned from salt creep and making sure your wiring is
sound> Will this T5 Retro Fit come with some kind of protective cover to
protect the lights and the circuitry that the bulbs plug into?? <Not the
retrofit, it will most likely just come with the end caps, bulbs, reflectors,
and a ballast if you order it.> I just don't want a repeat of the mess
that I already have. <Understandable, but if installed properly you
shouldn’t have a problem with T5’s. If you are extremely adverse to the idea,
try getting a taller canopy or removing the canopy all together and get a stand
alone fixture to hang or stand with feet on your tank.> What are your
thoughts here? Lynne <Jessy>
Re: Light Set up Dilemma – 10/02/08
Thanks again Jesse, This is my last question, I promise. Do you have a
recommendation as to a particular Brand Name of T5 Retrofit that I should look
for and where I can get one? <I'm reluctant to point you in any one
direction, because I'm sure there are many good manufacturers out there. My
personal fixture is a TEK 8 bulb fixture by Sunlight Supply. I love it. I looked
at their website and found this ready made Retro fit you may find interesting
http://www.sunlightsupply.com/aqua/products.aspx?request=AQUA_READYFIT&title=Fluorescent%20Lighting&type=product
The only other piece of advice I can leave you with is to make sure you get
individual reflectors. It helps with the lighting immensely. Do your research
and ask around for other peoples' opinions in your town. They may have
experience with other brands.> Lynne <Jessy>
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Lighting Question/Odyssea
fixture... Heat/fire concerns 9/1/08
Hello,
I have searched endlessly about the new lighting system I have. I recently
purchased the cheap Odyssea 48" PC fixture with 2x65w12000k daylight and 2x65w true actinics. Soon after firing them up I noticed they get extremely
hot.
<PC fixtures can get fairly hot, a subjective observation.>
I researched them a little further and read a lot about possible fire
hazards and to replace the light bulbs themselves.
<I have heard about this over the years, none in a while. The issue was
supposedly with the capacitor in the MH ballasts. Some of the stories were
plausible, many not so IMO. To my knowledge the PC parts or fixtures never
had the issue. Most were changing out the MH bulb due to the poor quality of
the bulb rather than the fire issue, the bulbs were not involved.>
My question is would changing the bulbs make any difference in the heat
being put out?
<Not at all.>
Also if you do recommend changing the lights what is a good brand. I’ve
heard Corallife isn’t that high in quality so please help.
<I actually very much like their PC bulbs. There are many other good brands,
no one in particular.>
Also people recommended changing out the ballasts; is this a good idea as
well?
<There are never any guarantees with anything electrical, but I would not.>
I’m just nervous about leaving the house with the lights on in fear of it
burning up and I’m willing to put money in replacement bulbs or ballasts if
need be.
<Again, I know of no issues with the PC units, but if you are not completely
comfortable with running these, then by all means don’t.>
Thanks!
-Sean
<Welcome, Scott V.>
PC pin corrosion 1/4/06
How are you guys? <Great>
I have quick question about pin configuration on the Coralife power compact
fixture. Is there any type of substance that you can put on the pins of a bulb
when you change them to prevent the pins from corroding(?) inside the end caps?
<I spray a small amount of WD40 on mine and wipe off excess. James (Salty Dog)>
<<Mmm, this is a local co... the product is diesel fuel, kerosene and a
perfuming agent... I would NOT spray this around aquariums. RMF>>
Thanks,
Greg <<I use a smear of Silastic (100% Silicone Sealant)... wipes away enough
for initial contact, allows easy removal. Bob Fenner>>
Lighting 1/27/06
Could you please tell me what the end part of a ballast is called? <They are
called end caps/sockets.>
I bought new Coralife bulbs, and when I was taking off the old bulbs, the end
part broke!! The part that the pins go into. What a drag! They were so fused on
to the bulbs, it was ridiculous! <Should coat the pins of the lamps with a
silicone lubricant to prevent this.>
I bought Coralife 65 watt 21 inch straight pin compact bulbs. Now, my tank is in
the dark thanks to this ridiculous design!!
So, now that I've vented a bit, can you tell me what the heck they are called so
I can order some? I had to cut the wires that lead from the ballasts also,
because they were frayed. Do you think it is safe for me to re-wire onto these
caps?? <I've never saw PC end caps for sale in any of the on-line stores. I'd
contact the manufacturer for their advice. <James (Salty Dog)>
Thank you! <You're welcome>
Pam
Issues with Lighting Fixture, fluo.
9/11/07
<hello>
I had a hard time finding the information I am looking for. I apologize if this
question is similar in content to others you have answered. I have a 55 gallon
reef tank that has been up and running successfully for two years. All
parameters are normal. Fish and corals thriving. I have a current satellite
fixture that has been an excellent choice. However within the past six months
the lamps (bulbs) on one of the ballasts began to flicker. At first the
flickering was temporary, then it became constant. I bought new lamps and this
did not solve the problem. Then my boyfriend (an electrician) disassembled and
reassembled the unit. It did not flicker again for about two weeks. Now it
flickers randomly once or twice a week, maybe more and I am not there to notice.
Several opinions have me confused. One source told me that it was probably a
loose wire, not to worry. Another told me that a new ballast was needed. Before
I spend the money on a new ballast, is the, now, temporary flickering, harmful
and or indicative of a larger issue? If it is, or was, a loose wire would a new
ballast be of any benefit? I tend to be a hypochondriac but it seems that my
Anemone may be "reaching" for light more than is usual. Could the lamps be
producing less light, without giving any visual indication? Is there any way to
measure the light that the tank is receiving? Any input would be most
appreciated. Thank-you.
<The best action is to replace the ballast. While you are at it see if there are
fans on the end of the fixture. If there are make sure they are working. If
there isn't check into purchasing some and installing them. The fans will keep
the fixture cooler and make the ballast and bulbs last longer.>
<Rich aka Mr. Firemouth>
Fluorescent bulb
Hello,
I have a low energy fluorescent bulb in my tank lid. It seems to emit
a funny smell. Has any one else noticed anything similar and will it harm the
fish.
Please advise.
Thank you
<Sometimes new ballasts emit a funny smell at first, but I'm not sure what's
causing your odor. I wouldn't worry about it unless it smelled like something
was burning. -Kevin>
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