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FAQs on Mudskippers

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Periophthalmus kalolo, gen., ID, Sys.   12/12/07
Greetings from Alaska...
<And likewise from England,>
I just returned from visiting relatives in Fiji. I also regularly visit American and Western Samoa, both for business and pleasure. I have a few questions concerning Mudskippers:
<OK, fire away!>
(1) The species I've observed in both Samoa and Fiji I've tentatively identified as Periophthalmus kalolo. However, in Western Samoa and Fiji I've seen larger specimens with somewhat different pattern--the most numerous animals are small (2-2.5 in), beige ground color with chocolate brown irregular cross-bands. Larger animals (5-6 in) lack the
cross-bands, having a poorly defined pattern of darker blotches and whitish speckling on a light brown ground color. Does this represent more than one (sympatric) species, or merely ontogenic pattern changes?
<Not sure about this. Periophthalmus argentilineatus is also known from both Fiji and Samoa. Both species are pretty similar, though Periophthalmus argentilineatus is slightly larger and has a series of short silvery vertical bands on the lower half of the body, just above the anal fin. Both species have reddish dorsal fins, speckles on the flanks, etc. and it is common for multiple Mudskipper species to live in the same place. To be 100% sure what species you have, I'd recommend sending photos to Richard Mleczko, who wrote the Mudskipper chapter of my brackish aquarium book, and has kept and caught just many different species. His web page is at the link below:
http://homepage.mac.com/nmonks/mudskippers/goby.htm
His e-mail link is on that page. There is also an excellent section on mudskippers in the Aqualog book by Frank Schaefer. Both his book and mine actually have correctly identified Mudskipper photos, something not at all standard in the aquarium press!>
In American Samoa, I've only seen the smaller version in brackish mangrove streams and swamps. In Western Samoa and Fiji I've found both small and large specimens, always inhabiting mangrove stands in full seawater. Do you agree with my species identification?
<Impossible to say: the silver bands on the ventral surface is the only useful distinction, and you haven't mentioned these. Do also bear in mind that male and female Mudskippers can look very different.>
(2) I have several mangrove rhizomes currently growing in full saltwater (same as the habitat from which they were taken). They've begun to sprout roots, but no leaves yet. My hope is to establish a large marine tank for the mangroves in one of the deep-set windowsills in my house (long Alaska daylight enables tropical plants to thrive, believe it or not), along with halide lighting and a heater to make suitable habitat for mangroves, small fiddler crabs, Periophthalmus, Gobiodon, Brachygobius and possibly a small Pseudomugil species.
<Brachygobius spp. don't like seawater. The traded species in the hobby are really freshwater fish in the wild, and while low-end brackish water suits them very well in captivity, they certainly don't need to be kept in very salty water. While I've heard the odd story of people acclimating them to marine conditions, I've also heard it go wrong, and the poor little fish die. Surprisingly to some, Brachygobius spp. can be found in soft, acid blackwater streams in their native habitat!>
Concerning the latter, I'd like to try P. gertrudae, because they're small. My question is, are they strictly freshwater, or can they thrive in saline water as can some other species in the genus?
<Pseudomugil spp. -- known as "blue-eyes" in the trade -- include freshwater, brackish water, and salt water species. While I dare say freshwater species will tolerate low-end brackish conditions around SG 1.003, I wouldn't attempt keeping them in anything more saline. Pseudomugil gertrudae in particular is found in soft, acidic water conditions. If you want something small and colourful, you'd be better off with a brackish water killifish or livebearer of some type, perhaps Micropoecilia picta.>
(3) The set-up I envision (will probably have to get a local Plexiglas outfit to construct it for me) is to make an approx. 72" x 24" x 24" tank with three screened standpipes of different heights at one end to simulate tidal changes--check valves on each one so water level can be changed manually. Stand pipes emptying into another, comparably-sized tank on the floor (which might be dedicated only to filter media).
<Sounds great, but Mudskippers at least couldn't care less about salinity variation. They adapt very well to fixed salinity environments, ideally around SG 1.010 though slightly above or below is acceptable.>
Siphon from a large canister filter to draw water from the lower tank, with the outflow pipe attached to the end of a Plexiglas "planter" at the back of the upper tank, in which a bottom compartment of about 3-4" depth is covered with a fitted plastic screen. Over this will be planting substrate and the mangroves. The idea is for the water to cycle up through the mangrove planter, and then into the tank, thence through a standpipe back down to the lower tank, etc.
Do you think this set-up will work?
<I'm no plumber, but the theory sounds good. As I say though, it isn't the sort of project I'd engage with just for the sake of the Mudskippers. They spend 90% of their time on land, ideally on sand or flat rocks or smooth bogwood, so what they really want is a complex terrain made up of those materials. Some burrows are also appreciated (PVC pipes stuck into the sand are ideal). Beyond that, a pool of water for bathing is all they require. They are actually extremely hardy and adaptable fish; the reason they have a mixed reputation in the hobby is solely because people try to keep them in freshwater or marine tanks, neither of which are acceptable. They want a brackish water vivarium.>
I guess I'd have to fill the bottom tank and start cycling the water when the lowest stand-pipe is open to avoid overflowing the bottom tank. I've also thought of setting up the lower tank with anemones, soft corals and a few Amphiprion, Dascyllus and Chrysiptera.
<No. Don't do this. If there are aggressive or large fish in the water, the Mudskippers won't go swimming. This causes problems. Mudskippers inhabit areas completely devoid of other fish, i.e., dry land. They can't and won't deal with active or territorial fish. Ideally, Mudskippers should be kept alone. Small fish can be viewed as food, hence my recommendation to with livebearers, so that you can at least expect the population to sustain a certain amount of predation. Fish of similar size to the Mudskippers terrify them. In the wild, when they see fish in the water, they stay on land or go into their burrows.>
(4) Are P. kalolo imported to the US? It probably wouldn't be difficult for me to get a collector's permit in Fiji (or in Samoa), but a lot of hassle to get the animals into the states, which I would prefer to avoid.
<It may be imported occasionally but it isn't a staple. For the North American market, the trade is dominated by Periophthalmus argentilineatus and Periophthalmus barbarus, and sometimes Periophthalmus septemradiatus, at least according to Richard. European aquarists additionally get a "dwarf" (~6 cm) species known as the Indian Mudskipper, likely identical with or related to Periophthalmus novemradiatus. Periophthalmus barbarus is the one to avoid if you can, partly because it is huge (~20 cm) but mostly because males are unbelievably aggressive and will sometimes kill everything in the tank kept with them! In any event, none of the retailers seem to identify Mudskippers properly, so the best you can do is consult a reliable book and identify the Mudskippers yourself.>
Sorry for the length of the e-mail, and thanks in advance for our
consideration.
Sincerely,
Fred
<Hope this helps, Neale.>

Re: Periophthalmus kalolo -12/14/07
I have relatives in England (unfortunately, I've never met any of them). One of note, who passed on several decades ago, was a distant cousin, Abdullah Archibald Hamilton.
<Very interesting. One of the more famous converts to Islam, and a noted (and aristocratic) statesman of note.>
Then I'm fairly certain that's what the larger specimens were--I saw one identified as P. argentilineatus in the Sydney Aquarium while visiting my son there in 2005. I wasn't noticeably different than the animals I saw in W. Samoa and in Fiji.
<The two species, P. kalolo and P. argentilineatus, are very similar, but once you know how to tell them apart (and assuming the fish are mature) then distinguishing them by eye should be possible.>
I did notice poorly-defined ventro-lateral (silver) markings on one of the larger specimens I caught and took into the vali house so my granddaughter could see it. Also learned that, while nearly impossible to catch during the day, both species are easily caught by hand at night when dazzled with a hand-torch (flashlight).
<Interesting.>
Thank you for the references! Unfortunately I took no photos, as I kept forgetting to charge my camera.
<Always the case.>
Yeah...I figured either that or ontogenic pattern changes. However, with the clues you've given I believe both species were present in both Viani Bay, Fiji, and in Vaigaga, W. Samoa. For aquarium purposes I'm only interested in the smaller P. kalolo.
<The size difference isn't all that great, and I'd be more worried about minimising the number of males in the tank than cherry-picking species.>
Aha--thanks for the warning. I'll have to set up a small separate tank for Brachygobius, then. I would like to, as my LFS regularly receives very large individuals with deep orange, rather than just yellow, bands. Very impressive. I'll add there is a possibility I'll be working in General Santos City, Philippines for a year--so I may get opportunity for first-hand observation of Brachygobius habitat preferences, God Willing.
<Very good. Goby taxonomist Naomi Delventhal, who wrote the Goby chapter in my brackish book, has taught me a lot about these fish. They are essentially indistinguishable to species level without examination under a microscope, hence my preference these days to refer to them as Brachygobius spp. rather than any one species. While most do occur in brackish water in parts of their range, something like half the species are found in freshwater habitats as well. My feeling is that most starve to death in aquaria, and the belief that the lack of salt is the issue is erroneous. A fascinating but misunderstood group of fish.>
Thanks again for the tip. I've read that P. cyanodorsalis and P. signifer are both found in full salinity water in the wild. The former species, being small and colorful, might work (a friend who owns a very good aquarium shop in Rockdale, NSW has told me this species has been tank-spawned). Your recommendation of small live-bearers reminded me that I already have a small population of Heterandria formosa. I "rescued" one gravid female from a "feeder" tank at the aforementioned LFS, and she has regularly given birth every few weeks since then. Heterandria live in brackish as well as fresh water--I've caught then in salt marshes in southern Georgia, USA.
<Indeed. Would work well with Mudskippers, though quite probably more as live food than anything else!>
Sorry, I wasn't clear in my previous e-mail. The variable-height standpipes are to raise and lower water level, not salinity, in imitation of tidal ebb and flow. I intend to keep the tank at fixed salinity.
<Ah, yes, this would be ideal. Richard Mleczko is a great fan of this sort of thing with Mudskippers. Not required, but looks very nice.>
That's the purpose for the standpipes--I hope to lower and raise water level from 14" to 8" to 4" and back again, keeping the water at each level for about eight-hour increments. I plan to have the mangrove planter at 12" height, so at the lower water levels there will be fairly extensive above-water substrate available (not to mention the roots I hope the mangroves will put down as they grow). Also, I brought back some hollow bamboo sections from the remains of a Viani Bay relative's old raft to facilitate burrow-making.
<Good. Do bear in mind that wood sometimes rots more quickly in saline water. No idea why, but does seem to happen.>
As far as I can tell, the animals I observed in W. Samoa and Fiji were in fully saline habitat (I just remembered seeing some near Savusavu, Fiji that were in a tidal creek, but the ones at my daughter-in-law's family's place in Viani Bay were in fully saline conditions--one could swim only a few yards out from the mangroves where the Periophthalmus were, and see myriads of reef fishes, including Gobiodon, Damsels, Lionfish, as well as soft and hard corals). There was no fresh water on the island, other than a large rainwater tank my daughter-in-law's relatives maintain for their needs. Having said that, it does seem best to opt for brackish conditions--hopefully, I can gradually reduce salinity to about 12-16ppm without harming the mangroves, once these have become established.
<The precise salinity isn't important. Mudskippers are perhaps best thought of as "tidal" rather than brackish water fish. So yes, if the tidal water is marine, e.g., a rocky reef along a beech, then yes, they'll be in more or less normal marine salinities. But they are also common in tidal brackish water environments, and the lower cost of maintaining them thus can be beneficial to the aquarist! Lower cost = cheaper water changes = more water changes = better water quality. Reduced salinity also places less stress on their osmoregulatory system, and is also less likely to be acceptable to marine or freshwater parasites. The one thing they don't like is freshwater. I'm not aware of any true mudskipper than tolerates freshwater indefinitely.>
Sorry, I wasn't clear again--the damsels would be kept in the second, lower tank (into which the standpipes from the Periophthalmus tank would empty). They would not come in contact with the mudskippers. But, if I reduce salinity to about half seawater as you suggest, I won't be able to keep marine damsels anyway.
<There actually are several brackish water damselfish, usually sold as "freshwater damselfish" even though they don't do especially well in freshwater conditions. See here:
http://homepage.mac.com/nmonks/aquaria/brackfaqpages/Marine_fish/(7e)damselfishes.html
Most hardy marine damsels, like Sergeant Majors for example, will thrive at SG 1.018 too, and could be used.>
However, there are several outstanding N. American small brackish spp that would thrive, such as Adinia xenica, Fundulus rivulus, Cyprinodon variegatus, Poecilia etc. I kept two 55gal housing populations of these and other N. American brackish spp for about seven years back in the mid '90s. The fishes I released when I disassembled the tanks were the several-times-removed grandchildren of the original stocks.
<Poecilia spp. especially work well with Mudskippers. Wild-caught Mollies for example make nice additions.>
I have noted their apparent fear of going too far from shore, and concluded this was due to fear of predation.
<Precisely. Mudskippers are very good jumpers on land, and rely on that to avoid predation from terrestrial predators. But in the water they are poor swimmers. So they don't like being in water where there are other fish of similar or larger size.>
I attempted to keep 7 specimens of a W. African species--considerably larger than P. kalolo--back in the early 90s, with moderate success.
However, they were vicious, and their powerful jaws made short work of any fish, crustacean or insect placed in their tank (and occasionally each other). I had identified them to species, but don't recall it now--the males in particular had blue and red bands on their dorsal fins (very similar to those on a Rainbow Darter--Etheostoma caeruleum--a species which I currently keep).
<Those are definitely P. barbarus. The males have brilliant red/blue dorsal fins. But as you say, this species is incredibly vicious and highly predatory. At least in the UK, this species is now very rarely traded, the "dwarf" Indian Mudskipper species being a far nicer aquarium fish.>
Yep.
Sorry for the earlier "jumbled" reply--hope this comes out better.
Sincerely,
Fred
<Glad we could help. Please do get in touch with Richard; he really knows his stuff when it comes to 'Skippers. Cheers, Neale.>

Non Planted FW aquarium.  10/20/07
Hi Neale!
<Hello Bryan,>
Once again I am need of more sage advise... my girlfriend just got back from a family trip back east, about halfway through the trip she told me that she had found something that we could "do together" and was bringing it home with her. when she got home she presented me with a book called "Aquarium Style" by Matthew Christian. which surprised me, because to this point the only thing she has ever said about my hobby is "You got another _____ing fish tank!? are you out of your mind!?"
<Ah, I do know this book. Not sure what to make of it. On the one hand, a book demonstrating all the different ways a freshwater aquarium can be put together is a brilliant idea. And the ideas given (while not all to my taste!) are certainly interesting and attractive. But on the other hand, some of the tank ideas seem to me to be flawed. The author seems to make no account of things like social behaviour, adult size, stocking levels, etc. So while the tanks *look* great, I'm not sure that in the long term, the fish populations used are appropriate.>
The book itself is interesting, and quite a bit different than the usual book that I would read, it is very heavy on visuals and doesn't bog the reader down with long texts and big Latin words (my usual preference) it is no doubt designed to capture the interest of beginners and bring them into the hobby by showing 30 or so "themed" tank designs (some very practical and sustainable, others not so much... unfortunately she has taken a shining to the later) unfortunately there are some pretty big red flags if one reads the text... from describing live plants as "good if you want a natural look or to give your fish a place to hide" to recommending 15-20 tiger Oscars for a "medium sized tank" and suggested stocking levels that border on obscene for all of the tanks...
<Exactly my sort of concern.>
but the aquascapes presented are all captivating and well thought out, even if some of them probably crashed within days (or hours) of the photos being taken... anyway, I’ll get off my soapbox now and get to the heart of my question. As I said before, this is the most interest she has ever taken in my hobby and I don't want her to lose that interest by telling her that the tanks she thinks are so pretty are destined to be an algae infested nightmares that will crash and burn within weeks.
<Understood.>
I want to break down my 29 gallon and give it to her to do whatever strikes her fancy with, but I also want to make sure that her first fish don't end up floating... the tank she has picked out has a really interesting concept, and I can see how it would catch her interest, the photos are very striking, it is titled "crystal cave" and features an assortment of geodes, crystals, and broken glass tumbled smooth as the substrate.
<Hmm... no, in the long term these tanks don't work. A bright purple geode now looks like a green-brown lump after a few months. The sharp edges are terrible for bottom dwelling fish, and unless you're a skilled geologist, oddball rocks can be a potential source of dangerous metals like copper.>
I’m sure that properly done it could be a great system, but I am having a hard time figuring out how to maintain it and keep algae off of the crystals and the system in balance long term... I don't think she is going to be interested in snails (and at this point neither am I, due to the previous snail infestation issue... by the way, the DIY snail trap has been more successful in the past few days, I think I am starting to get the outbreak under control...)
<Good!>
and although I will sand all of the sharp edges I still don’t think this tank will be suitable for cories, otos or algae eating shrimp either.
<Indeed.>
as I said, I am probably going to use the 29 gallon planted tank, obviously the lights are going to have to devolve, as PC's on a non planted tank are going to give me pea soup...
<Not so. In dimly lit tanks, you get brown algae and to a lesser extent blue-green algae; in brightly lit tanks, the algae you get is green algae. Brown and blue-green algae is difficult to control biologically, but lots of animals eat green algae, so it's much easier to keep in check using shrimps, Nerite snails (which don't breed in tanks), Otocinclus, etc.>
I am thinking of using only LED "moonlights" which I think may have an interesting effect on the crystals, any idea of how fish will react to only LED illumination? should I throw in a really low output t12 for a more traditional light cycle?
<Fish don't generally care either way about lighting. Most prefer shady conditions if given the choice, but adapt to the relatively bright lighting in some aquaria easily. In other words, do what you want. Within reason, the fish will be fine, particularly if there are shady areas for them to hide in should they want.>
Also I will probably continue to use the Penguin BioWheel 330 that is on the tank know, I know it is way overkill for a 29 gallon, but if the system is going to be "un-planted" I think its going to be necessary.
<Not a problem.>
she has taken a liking to Angels and Gouramis, and if we stocked 1 pair of one of these how many other smaller fish (maybe cardinals, glowlights, rasboras, etc.) would be safe in a system like this?
<Angels can/do view small fish the size of Neons as food, so choose tankmates with care.>
also any ideas for algae control besides regular water changes? (I already do 10-15 gallons weekly)
<Plants are the only algae control that works. Everything else boils down to some sort of manual control.>
I'd appreciate any advise that you might have on keeping non planted systems stable, honestly I got into the hobby skipping the usual first steps of fake plants, pink gravel, and burping clams and dove right into planted tanks, so I have no practical experience with these kind of systems, hopefully I can get her interest into planted tanks soon, but for know this is a good first step!
<Un-planted tanks are easy, and present few problems. The main thing is to ensure what you use a decor is explicitly aquarium-safe. While there's nothing to stop you raiding a garden centre for interesting rocks and substrates, you do need to make sure said materials are safe. Rather than geodes and fossils, which are a waste in the long term, going with attractive and demonstrably safe rocks is a much better way forward. Pink and silver granite, for example, looks spectacular in aquaria, and is completely safe. It also helps to choose colours sensibly; light-coloured gravels, or funky blue or red gravels, tend to make the fish *less* colourful. Fish adjust their colours to their surroundings. The best colours are almost always where the sand is black or brown. If you want bright sand and colourful rocks -- keep a rock garden! But if you want your fish to look nice, choose natural-looking rocks and sand, so the fish settle in better. One book I might recommend is called "The Complete Aquarium" by Peter Scott. I mention this book because it has a similar format to the one you have, but the tanks are *much* more carefully thought out, and all are based on some sort of biotope. As well as freshwater set-ups there are nice brackish and marine ones too. Anyway, the reason I mention this book is that at Amazon it's going for the princely sum of $2.46, so won't break the bank! I think as a supplement to what your g/f is trying to do, you'll find it a good read.>
Thanks,
Bryan
<Hope this helps, Neale>

Re: Non Planted FW aquarium. – 11/20/07
Hi Neale!
<Bryan,>
I took your advice and ordered "the complete aquarium" and man was it $2.50 well spent! I also picked up a few other books for a buck each and now I have a pretty decent little library for under 20 bucks! I am going to be trolling Amazon from now on when it comes time to buy a new book, thanks again for pointing me in the right direction!
<It's a neat book. Slightly old-fashioned, but the aquaria demonstrated are wonderfully done and very inspirational.>
Anyway, the girlfriend has been fully bitten now... which is a good news bad/news situation... good news is she is getting into planted tanks, bad news: she likes oddballs... puffers, four-eyed fish, crabs... and paludariums. I’ve been itching to try a paludarium for a while so this is a good thing, but the only tank I have available for use is a 29G standard... which no matter which way I try to slice it I cant figure out how to get more than about 10-12 gallons of water into a paludarium setup, and I am not looking forward to trying to keep 10 gallons of brackish water stable... anyway she thinks the little "red clawed Thai crabs" in 'Aquarium Style' are cute.
<That tank would be fine for a small paludarium, especially if you used a lot of wood to create the above-the-water scenery. There is a small species of mudskipper on sale, nominally referred to as Periophthalmus novemradiatus but this identity is uncertain. It usually goes by the name of Indian or Dwarf Mudskipper. Maximum size is around 10 cm, though 5-6 cm is typical in aquaria. It has a reddish dorsal fin rather than blue, but is very pretty and not too aggressive. Mudskippers work best either singly or in large groups, where numbers prevents too much damage through fighting. In any case, these fish do supremely well in aquaria, and far better than things like the West African Mudskipper, Periophthalmus barbarus, a singularly nasty and aggressive (as well as big) species that was the most common species in the trade hitherto.>
I have no idea what they are and the only guesses I can make are (1) they probably prefer brackish water, and (2) they will probably eat anything they can catch...
<Yes and yes. They are Perisesarma bidens. Relatively easy to keep, and some hobbyists have even bred them! Not to be mixed with fish for precisely the reasons you give. Although not fish-eaters in the wild (like most land crabs they eat fruit and detritus) in the confines of an aquarium, sooner or later they nip and/or kill small fish kept with them.>
I doubt that I will be able to keep much with them in a freshwater tank... (if they’ll even survive in a FW tank) in a brackish setup what could I keep with them?
<Nothing. Enjoy them for what they are: entertaining little critters! By all means add brackish water snails if you want. Things like Nerites do a reasonable job of algae-control, and Malayan livebearing snails make ideal salt-tolerant scavengers that keep sand spotlessly clean.>
Puffers should be able to look out for themselves and four-eyed fish occupy a different niche so they would probably be ok right?
<No and no. Puffers will simply take the crabs apart if they are big enough, and if they are too small, the crabs could catch the puffers. Anableps need a peculiar sort of tank all their own. Basically a long tank, half-filled with water, with a "table" in the middle onto which they can rest with their eyes poking out. In anything else, their longevity tends to be unimpressive, and they usually fare poorly mixed with other species except maybe things like Mollies and Guppies.>
What about dragon gobies and/or mollies?
<I wouldn't mix any fish with red-claw crabs. Fiddler crabs are often fine with fish, since they're almost pure detritus feeders and have little instinct to catch prey. But red-claws are opportunists and will have a go at anything.>
And if I go with FW what about land hermit crabs? Are they a danger to fish and is there a danger to them drowning in a paludarium?
<Can work very well in paludaria, but terrestrial hermit crabs easily drown. They would need a tank with a very gentle slope so they could crawl in and out of the water easily. Not all species are brackish water animals. Also, they are 99% terrestrial, and only bathe to moisten their gills and to breed. For a generic brackish water aquarium, two fully-aquatic hermits are better choices: between SG 1.010 and marine, go with the commonly-sold reef hermit Clibanarius tricolor, and below SG 1.010 Clibanarius africanus works well. Neither of these poses much threat to fish, and both are hardy. Clibanarius africanus is, unfortunately, rather rare. Clibanarius tricolor on the other hand is cheap and easy to find (sold as the "blue-legged hermit" to marine aquarists) and does well in mid to high salinity systems with monos, scats, etc.>
I am trying to find a way to incorporate something different (and no matter how hard I try she just doesn't think cardonica shrimp are interesting...) but still keep a stable ecosystem,
<Amano shrimps aren't my thing, but there are some great alternatives. Cherry shrimps are lovely because they breed so readily, and will turn any aquarium into a veritable reef tank given the chance, literally crawling with shrimps of all sizes. Long-arm shrimps are also amazing animals. These are Macrobrachium spp., and a variety of species are now traded. Macrobrachium rosenbergii is the best/worst depending on your point of view; at about 15 cm in body length but with claws that are at least as long again, this is seriously impressive animal that will make hardened cichlid keepers break down and weep. It is also fun to watch and can be easily hand-trained. On the flip side, it is territorial and a confirmed fish-eater in aquaria. There are, thankfully, many smaller species such as Macrobrachium sp. "Rusty" and Macrobrachium "Red Claw" that are smaller and easier to keep. Some will form stable harems (one male, multiple females) and breed readily in the aquarium. They can be easily sexed: males have bigger claws, often with coloured bands on them.>
an oddball brackish tank is very intriguing to me, maybe 2 four-eyed fish, 1 small puffer, 1 dragon goby 3-5 crabs, maybe a trio of same sex mollies? This is likely too much for 10-12 gallons of brackish water right?
<Yes, too much and the wrong stuff.>
If I do go with a FW setup are there any land dwellers you could suggest that would fit in with your more standard aquarium fare?
<Nothing commonly traded. The problem for fishkeepers is that the bulk of freshwater invertebrates are insects, and these don't make good pets for a variety of reasons. Brackish water habitats are the prime places to see amphibious fish and crustaceans, and to some extent molluscs as well.>
She likes Killies, Gouramis, and the more colorful Cory's too, so we could probably put together a FW setup she likes, I'm up for pretty much anything, and if I had the space I’d have about a dozen tanks and I would be trying everything I’ve mentioned above, I’m just looking for a nudge in the right direction considering the set-up I have to work with and the critters that are grabbing her attention.
<Hmm... if she likes "critters", then arguably a marine system is the best option. If you forego light-sensitive things like corals, and don't keep any fish, maintaining a basic live rock plus shrimps, snails and small echinoderms tank isn't all that hard or expensive. In terms of brackish water, fiddler crabs and Mudskippers are a classic combo, though not without some amount of work to get right. Amphibious crabs can be superb pets, but in my opinion they are best kept alone.>
Thanks again for all the help!
~Bryan
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Non Planted FW aquarium. Periophthalmids... BR f'  – 11/21/07
Hi Neale,
Ok, fiddlers and mudskippers sounds like a plan to us, just a few more quick questions: any idea where I should look for the mudskippers you mentioned?
<In the US, your best bet is probably somewhere like Frank's Aquarium (www.franksaquarium.com). He has Dwarf Mudskippers in stock as well as a variety of crabs (though not, right now, Uca spp. fiddlers). While I've never used Frank's Aquarium, I know he makes a real effort to import and correctly identify interesting and unusual stock.>
I don't see any on Aquabid, and my LFS's don't usually carry brackish fishes (some occasionally do, but they are always in FW tanks) I may have to have someone special order them for me, do you have an idea of a fair price range? (Don’t wanna get ripped off...)
<Mudskippers are going to be around $5-10 a piece, and fiddler crabs about the same, maybe a little less. Fiddlers are in the "freshwater" trade, so getting them should be possible even through the more stodgy retailers.>
and also when you say "either singly or in large groups” how large is a large group?
<Either one or six upwards, in my opinion. Varies with the species. Dwarf Mudskippers are fairly tolerant, but P. barbarus will kill tankmates. So, identify the species being traded, and act accordingly. At the moment I'm hosting Richard Mleczko's Mudskipper pages, and that's definitely the place to start reading. He's the absolute world expert on these fish in captivity, and wrote the chapter on them for my book (which, without blowing any trumpets, is a must-read for any mudskipper fan and one of the best chapters in the book). Anyway, the web address is: homepage.mac.com/nmonks/mudskippers/ .>
I’m thinking it is best I only keep 1 in my 30 gallon, right?
<You could easily have half a dozen Dwarfs in there, assuming there was plenty of climbing places and water to swim about in. Since Mudskippers climb up stuff, plastic plants and roots can be used to create a 3D structure quite easily. Richard actually advocates overcrowding Mudskippers to prevent aggression. If the 'skippers can't set up territories, they get along better. Because Mudskippers are extremely tolerant of pollution (they are, after all, swamp dwellers that spend half their time in dysaerobic mud burrows) this isn't at all risky, and in fact it is easier to overcrowd Mudskippers than, say, Mbuna. Mudskippers are insensitive to ammonia, for example. They're very easy to keep in some ways. But on others, a challenge. They are sensitive to cold air, for example.>
Also, what is a good stocking density for fiddler's in the same set up?
<Fiddlers are generally harmless animals and get along fine in groups. The males "fight" through displaying, and hardly ever physically damage one another.>
And lastly what can I keep with the above combo? the Chain LFS by my house gets dragon gobies every once in a while, I have a feeling the poor critters needs aren't being met, and I’m pretty sure they are in FW tanks, and I’d like to try and rescue one if it will fit into this system...
<Dragon Gobies (Gobioides spp.) are big, easily 30 cm in captivity, and up to 60 cm in the wild. They need a decent-sized aquarium. Even filled with water a 20 or 30 gallon tank is too small, and half filled definitely too small. Mudskippers are funny about tankmates. Small fish may be eaten, and big fish frighten them, and the 'skippers won't go into the water. The best tankmates tend to be livebearers and halfbeaks of similar size. Endler guppies would be ideal for the smaller Mudskippers, and Mollies for the larger. Other gobies of similar size can work well, as will flatfish.>
oh, and plants, I didn't see a section on the webpage dedicated to brackish plants, will Bamboo tolerate brackish water?
<Not that I'm aware of. Mangrove plants would be better.>
We wanted to do a combo of Bamboo and floating, flowering plants, but I can’t seem to find any info on what can tolerate brackish water.
<I'd recommend going with plastic in this instance: easier to set-up "just so" to get lots of 3D structures. Look at what people use in amphibian and reptile set-ups. Wood, leaves, vines, etc are all the sorts of things you want.>
Thanks again for everything!
~Bryan
<Good luck, Neale.>

Re: Non Planted FW aquarium. – 11/21/07
Hey Neale,
Sorry, I should have looked harder, I just found the section on brackish plants, I have a good idea of what I can and cant use, but I still want to know about the compatibility of Bamboo and floating plants like lilies, what is the highest SG they will tolerate?
Thanks!
~Bryan
<Generally SG 1.003, which is too low of Mudskippers. Honestly, go with plastic. It's easier. Or else choose brackish-water marginal plants. Mangroves are obviously the ideal, and cheap and easy to obtain. There are also various palms that can work well. Cheers, Neale.>

Where to Find Mudskippers?  3/9/07
<Hi Christopher, Pufferpunk here>
I am very interested in setting up a 55 gallon brackish water  aquarium in a mangrove style but I cannot find mudskippers (the wanna-be star  of my species tank) anywhere! I saw one person mentioning that she finds them in  her LFS in New England for $15, but this is one thing that you seem to not be  able to buy on the Internet. I asked the people at a great fish shop and the  owner
did not know of any. Is there any place to look or should I think more  about a cichlid species tank instead? Thanks  
<I have seen them occasionally, on www.aquabid.com.  I wouldn't keep more than 3 mudskippers in a 55g tank--1 male & 2 females.  They are very territorial.  What other fish were you considering?  Most brackish species grow too large for a 55g tank, other than gobies.  ~PP>
Thanks, Christopher

Mudskippers in full saltwater?   11/25/06
Hello Bob (or anyone who happens to get this question),
<Lev>
I am asking this out of pure curiosity. Can Mudskippers tolerate full saltwater? as in, 34-36ppt?
<Yes, have seen some species in the wild and captivity kept in this "strength" of seawater>
Thank you in advance!
P.S You book, "Reef Invertebrates" is truly the greatest reference on Refugia and all familiar inverts I have ever set eyes on. I love all of the neat pictures as well.
<Ahh! Thank you for your kind, encouraging words. Bob Fenner>

My Mudskipper isn't eating! 3 day system... cycled? Cond.s?  7/19/06
Hello,
         I am new to mudskipper keeping, actually it has only been about 3 days. I have a 10 gallon tank, which is 1/3 filled with a reptile bedding, 2/3 filled with brackish water.
<What spg?>
I have a big rock in the water as well. A mat heater under the tank, nice and hot n humid the way they like them.
<Mmm... how hot?>
I have a 3 inch African mudskipper. I have attached pictures incase i have incorrectly identified him.
<None came through>
Well my question is this i have guppies in the water and 5 small crickets and 1 large cricket on the land.
<Mmm, I would not leave these in the system continuously>
He hasn't touched any from what I've seen. He does look a little skinny, from when he came home from the petstore, is there anything wrong? There isn't much on your site nor on the web about mudskippers. any suggestions?
Thank you in advance!
Mike
<... is this system cycled? Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BrackishSubWebIndex/bracsyscomps.htm
If there is ammonia, nitrite present, this may well be deterring your mudskipper from eating... Do take care to supply stable conditions... a ten gallon is not easy to keep steady, optimized due to its small size. Bob Fenner>

Mudskippers ... tidepool system planning  2/14/06
Hi crew,
Great site.
Bit of a weird question, Just found my LFS selling mudskippers and have a vision of a tank set up but unsure how to get it and wondered if you could help.
<Will try>
I would like to have a tidal tank, I have a 4 foot Tank which I would like to divide in two halves, one
Side with skipper/skippers in and the other with Fiddler crabs in, I would like to set it up so I could
have high tide in one side and low tide in the other side then every 4 hours or so the tide changes
So the high tide water flows into the low tide side Increasing the water level to high tide, Is this possible?
<Yes>
If so what would I need?
<A mechanism... a pump, some means of "turning" the water hither and yon>
How would I set it up?
<A few possibilities... I'd go semi-high-tech., and look for float switches, a controller (these are commercially available) to pump the water slowly from one side, then over to the other... Look to Octopus, Neptune... as controller brands...>
And could it be done on a budget?
<If you're handy...>
If I can’t set my vision up I will not get them but I have longed to have skippers for a long time, please help
Many thanks
Stu
<Do please keep good notes, take some pix and write up your experiences to share... I will help you sell to the print/pulp and e-zine markets. Bob Fenner>

One Mudskipper per 10 Gallon Tank   1/4/06
Hey guys, I have a 10 gallon mudskipper tank setup, and I was wondering how many Indian mudskippers you would recommend housing in there. I have read that keeping two together is probably not the best combo and I really want to keep more than one, but am not sure if 3 would be pushing it. Thanks for all your help.
<Mud skippers are pretty territorial. If you only have one side of the tank substrate exposed to the air then I would recommend only one. If you can set up a dry spot on each side of the tank then you might be able to get away with two. They look really cute but they have strong jaws for crushing crabs.-Chuck>

Mudskippers and Frogs
Hi, I was wondering if anyone knows if mudskippers and African dwarf frogs can live in peace with one another. The mudskippers are Indian mudskippers, so they aren't as aggressive as other species (So I've heard). I also heard that ADFs can tolerate brackish water (not sure if that's true though). Thanks for all your guys help, you guys are awesome!
< In the wild mudskippers eat little crabs and insects they catch on the shore. Even if the frogs could survive the brackish water, I got to believe that the mudskipper would try and eat a little frog in a heart beat. I would not recommend it. Get the mudskippers up and going first. They usually go after anything that hits the water or the bottom of the tank in an instant. Once you see them eat I think you will change your mind about adding a little frog.-Chuck>

Companions For Mudskippers
Thanks for the info Chuck. Is there any sort of crustacean or small critter you think would be able to coincide with mudskippers? thanks again!
<Mudskippers are really a weird little fish that look kinda dopey and harmless but have a set of crushing jaws second to none. I think any sort of little critter will be eaten or crushed by the mudskippers. There are fish that can handle the water chemistry and be too big to be bothered, but I think that anything that goes up on the land is fair game.-Chuck>

Mud skippers
7/29/04
Hi Bob
<MikeD here>
I recently bought myself two mud skippers<awesome little creatures, if somewhat belligerent. Are you keeping them in the same tank? If so, use caution as they will frequently attack and kill each other. Likewise, they have to be able to get completely out of the water, and will drown otherwise> and was told that I could feed them normal fish pellets, however I tried this and they don't seem to want to look at it.<Yep, these are another live food to start with fish in many cases. Try some ghost shrimp flopping in the mud, or even crickets, small worms and flies. Once they know you they'll often switch to raw shrimp, squid and such, even small crabs> What do they live on? The last thing I want is for these awesome beggars to die.<Best of luck to you. These can be very demanding and tricky!>Please help

Mud Skippers (continued)
Hi Bob
Martin here
<Mike D here again>
Thanks for the reply, this info helps a great deal.<You're very welcome>
You mentioned feeding worms, would earth worms suffice or do they require blood worms?<Earthworms would actually probably work better as live bloodworms can be hard to come by. "Stripping" them of extra internal mud often helps maintain water parameters, meaning to squeeze from the front to the back. Later, after your 'Skippers get to recognize YOU as the food source they will be much more likely to accept any meaty food you give them>

Looking for mudskippers
Hi I'm Daniel,
I was wondering if you guys knew of a place in southern California that sells mudskippers.  I am in te Riverside area and I'm willing to drive for them but not too far.  any help locating a supplier would be nice.
< I am afraid that you will have to call around and ask the stores. These fish are not rare and are easily found in wholesalers in No. Ca. Unfortunately they require a special tank that not to many stores are willing to dedicate to just one species of fish. I am sure that if you call and ask a store would be more than happy to get you one.-Chuck>

Mudskipper info
Hello Bob,
<Hi Lee Ann, not Bob, but Pufferpunk here.  I do some of the BW Qs here.>
    I talked to you last summer when my son bought a Bichir.  You were very generous with information and our Bichir is doing great.  
<Very cool fish!  I'm glad it's doing well.>
Well, I finally got my dream fish too... Mudskippers.  
<My dream fish too!  I have a 55g river tank set-up (perfect for 'skippers), there are frogs living in the tank.  But someday...>
I have wanted these since I was twelve... and that was a VERY L-O-N-G time ago indeed :*).  I walked into my local pet store and there they were... 5 of them.  <Wow!> I bought the all !  When I got home I began looking for info on your website and the rest of the Internet.  That's when I discovered... there isn't very much.  I followed your link to Richard's website and his site has the most info next to the Japanese website and I gleaned all the info from there.  I did find one other really good site, but it is all in Japanese and unreadable unless you can read that language.
<To translate (roughly) from Japanese-English, post the address here: http://babelfish.altavista.com/translate.dyn.  Tadah!>
  Fantastic site though... looks very thorough.  I have found one more site and I would like to pass it on to you in the hopes that maybe you all would put it up on your website too.  It has a lot of info and I know anyone that has Mudskippers would sure appreciate being able to find it so easily on your website.    It took me hours of searching to finally find it.  Here is the links for it:
Aquaria Central - Mudskippers
http://www.aquariacentral.com/fishinfo/brackish/mudskip.htm
Here's the Japanese site just incase your interested in looking at it:
Marli's Mudskipper Land
http://ki.itigo.jp/marli/mudskipperland/index.htm
http://ki.itigo.jp/marli/mudskipperland/j_mudskipper_xx.htm
Know I will learn how to set up a mangrove tank.  I just love this idea... I've toyed with it for many years.  But now that I actually have my Mudskippers... I will do it.  For now they are in my regular tank with the level dropped and Styrofoam floating islands for them.  The pet store had them in pure freshwater and said they came that way from their dealer.  I was really wondering about that... I'm sure they're not too happy in complete fresh water.  I will gradually get them into brackish in the mangrove tank.  
<Don't raise the SG more than .002/weekly water change, or you will destroy the FW nitrifying bacteria faster than the SW bacteria can develop.  They are different animals & we aren't sure at what SG the changeover occurs.>
I would like to try and create a tide too.  I will divide the tank into part land and then sloping into deep water. That way they can have their choice of where they want to be and I can get the Archer fish I have always wanted also.  I want to make an area with mud or fine sand for them to dig in also.  The tank is 75 gal. so I will be able to be real creative with that.  I am so excited.  
<Boy, I'm excited for you & your mudskippers!  Sounds like they're going to have a great life.  The skippers & archers both will like to eat crickets.  75g is a good size for 5 of them.  Usually 1 male will be the "alpha" skipper.>    
Thanks again for your great site and info... God Bless :*)
Lee Ann Hightower
<Thanks for the links.  Enjoy your new friends. ~PP>

Sexual Dimorphism in Mudskippers? (10/28/03)
Do you know the difference between a male and a female mud skipper? thank you,
Miranda
<I see mudskippers so rarely that I haven't had an opportunity to stare at a bunch of them and try to figure that out. But I can tell you what I've found on knight gobies, which are related: on the male, the second dorsal fin is significantly longer, and the rays on the first dorsal are somewhat longer. When the male is courting the female, his fins get noticeably darker. When the female is egg-heavy, she gets rather tadpole-shaped, and you can see her ovipositor, which is rounded on the end. The male's papilla, when visible, is more pointed than the female's ovipositor. Another thing you may see in a mudskipper that isn't applicable to knight gobies: the different species have color bands on the dorsals. I would guess that those will be brighter in the male than in the female. If any of this helps, please do let me know, so I know what to look for when I eventually get my own mudskippers! Thanks.... --Ananda>

Tropical Freshwater System...
Hello Team,
<Hello>
I have a 90cm, 36" tropical freshwater planted aquarium with significant rock & woodwork that has been running smoothly with an undergravel filtration system for going on a month now. Next week I plan to introduce the first of my inhabitants, likely to be a Silver Shark at this point.
<I would consider something other than the silver shark.  These fish will grow to 13in>
I am planning on a peaceful, mixed community which will hold the likes of neon & Amazonian glowlight tetras, bronze catfish, striped loaches, rams, & various other peaceful community fish such as guppies & the like.
<Sounds good, minus the guppies, these live bearers prefer hard alkaline water and the tetras do not.>
I was wondering, would it be safe to introduce any freshwater crustaceans or invertebrates, such as small crabs or yabbies?
<maybe some japonica or ghost shrimp, crabs do not like to stay in the tank and would be more than happy to snack on small fish.>
Common sense tells me no, but I just adore the mixed fish-invertebrate marine systems & was hoping to acquire a similar affect throughout a tropical enclosure.
Also, I am thinking of creating a mudskipper tank. Would half-water, half-land be advisable? That tank would likely be closer to 150cm, or  60" in length. Would this be sufficient, & do the skippers require fresh or saltwater?
<I do not have any experience with mud skippers, their is a tiny bit of info on our site
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mudskipfaqs.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mudskippers.htm
looks like they "Live in brackish; mangrove and mudflat regions from Africa to Samoa."
I would start with a search on google.com to see what info you can find on mudskipper husbandry.  -Gage>
Much appreciated, MDC.

Mudskippers mudskippers mudskippers!
Aaah, I wanted to buy a mudskipper because I am thinking of setting up a tank that is half land and half water and at once, the fish/reptile thingy, mudskipper came to mind, I was wondering if you had any advice on mudskippers, or if you knew a site that sold them. please e-mail me back soon.
<Will add a piece on the family, Periophthalmidae soon... wrote a couple of survey pieces on/for brackish water while on holiday last week... Do you have access to a collection of hobby magazines (a club, college library?)... there have been some excellent survey articles on mudskippers the last few years. Keep an eye on WetWebMedia.com and if I don't get to them, please remind me. Bob Fenner>
Steven


 


 

 

 

 

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