My Pump Died! Pump sel., FW   9/26/09
Hello all of you wonderful people at WWM.
<Good morning Nikki!>
I am sort of new to keeping a larger aquarium and recently upgraded my 20 long to a second hand 75 gallon display tank with 10 gallon sump. I got the aquarium from a local pet supply that was getting rid of their fish department and had a few tanks left. The specific tank is a MARs "Feeder Warehouse Display System" that is meant to house 3000 feeder fish (talk about overstocking...). Here is the manual in case it helps you answer my questions:
http://www.marineland.com/sites/Marineland/Documents/Display_manual.pdf
<Yes... am very familiar with these units. Our business used to fabricate and sell such variably high-stocking density holding units>
I know that the chiller doesn't work from what the sales person told me (which isn't a big deal at all as I have it set up as a tropical planted tank) Is there a way to safely remove it all together?
<Yes... simply a matter of cutting out the existing plumbing and rerouting the incoming and discharge lines...>
It should also be noted that I don't have the automatic drain and refill feature set up as this tank is sitting in my living room (you can have it connected directly to a drain and water supply to replace a gallon of water every hour)
<Yes... a very useful feature for "feeder" systems>
The tank is about ten years old and the person who ran the fish department never did any maintenance on it (such as oiling the motor). I didn't know that you had to oil the motor (this being my first large tank and all) and was surprised when I started hearing horrible screeching sounds and whining from the pump two days after I started it cycling. I did some research online and at my LFS and realized that it needed oiled, so I tried oiling it with 3 in 1 only to find that the little rubber stoppers were completely melted into the pump. After a few hours of digging chunks of rubber out, I got the pump oiled and running. I also found out in this time that the pump is not the Little Giant 4-MD-SC listed in the manual, but is a Little Giant 3-MDQX-SC.
<Am also well-versed in/with this line of pumps... the SC stands for "semi corrosive"... Used to be these were amongst the better pumps for marine use... No longer though...>
I honestly don't know much about pumps at all and don't know the difference between the pumps other than the one I have has less power and circulates a smaller volume of water per hour. The circulation seems to be an acceptable amount, especially considering that I am using this tank as a simply stocked home aquarium.
The pump ran for another three days, occasionally making some horrible sounds and sometimes becoming louder and more rumbly. It died all together last night. The cool guys at my LFS told me that a ball bearing in the motor could be damaged and that the whole pump would have to be replaced if that were the case.
<This is so... and really a good idea to switch it out entirely in any case>
Judging from the sounds it was making in the hours before its death, that seems to very likely be the problem. Should I replace the pump or is there any way to repair it?
<Replace it. Beyond economic repair>
I found a Little Giant
3-MD-SC on my local Craigslist but am unsure if it would suit my system or if I need a different model.
<I would go with another brand/manufacturer>
I know that you guys favor another brand over Little Giant and I am totally open to suggestions, especially since I am over my head and this is all new learning for me. If you have other pumps in mind, please include model numbers and keep in mind that I am a hobbyist with a budget.
<Ahh, then do bear in mind that operational cost/s (mainly electricity) are quite variable...>
Right now I have a makeshift filter set up inside the main part of the tank to keep my plants and the few fish inside happy and healthy, but obviously would like to get the pump figured out and going again.
Thank you for all the help (including all of the answers you have provided to me over the years via other peoples questions! This is my first email to you)
-Nikki
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/pumpselmar6.htm
and the linked files above... for background... and do remove the chiller... It is adding to a loss of flow here. Oh, and do write back if there are elements to further discuss. Bob Fenner>

Re: My Pump Died! 9/29/2009
Hi Bob,
<Hello again Nikki>
Thanks for the tips. It seems you guys favor Eheim Hobby pumps?
<Yes>
Would you say that a Eheim Model 1260, CD-12784 would be a good pump for my situation? I am new
to calculating the right volume of overturn, but I know it should be around 4x the volume of the tank. The next pump down does under 4x, so I went for the next one up which is about 7x the volume. Is that going to be way overkill?
<It would not be>
How do I consider "overhead"? This is all pretty new to me. If you have a specific model you would recommend, please tell me. Under $300 would be nice.
<I would actually opt for the next size up, the 1262... it won't be too much, is just as quiet... and is nominally more expensive. Is about 170 US to purchase, draws 80 Watts>
If I wanted to remove the chiller, what kind of plumbing skills would be involved?
<Minimal... some cutting, replacement of plumbing line... could be done with a length of flexible...>
Would I have to just cut the whole chiller unit out of the line and patch it up or are there some valves to turn and attach?
<You need to connect the line coming in and the discharge>
Would it be better to leave it to kill the flow a little if I were using the stronger Eheim pump?
<Not in my opinion... the loss of pressure, flow... the opportunity cost of pumping the water... Is too much for me. I'd remove it. This unit may present problems if left in place long term in the way of metal pollution
I'm sorry if I am asking really novice questions; this is my first experience with a large tank and anything other than a HOB filter unit.
Thanks again!
Nikki
<Glad to assist you, your efforts. Bob Fenner>

Pump Upgrade Question/Pump Selection 9/12/09
Dear Crew,
<Victoria>
I would like to know what you think about a potential pump upgrade on my 90 gallon reef tank. It is a corner overflow system with a 1 3/4" Durso stand pipe style return, a 30 gallon DIY three chamber sump with a Miracle Mud refugium in the center, on a reverse photo period, and a small amount of Chaeto tumbling around. Currently running a ViaAqua 23OO, with a 5' head, which I understand is getting about 300 gph.
<Actually 600gph not including head loss.>
I am considering an Eheim 1262, with one return or a Mag 12 with two returns. I have 4 Koralia pumps for internal flow, but would love to remove several if possible.
<The Mag 12 may be a little overkill, the Eheim at 900gph would be a better match providing you have minimal restrictions (90's, 45's, etc.) in your return line.>
Thank you for your time.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Victoria

pump questions for 215 oceanic, and pb – 08/14/09 Hi guys! Great site here. While I was searching for an answer to my question I was able to learn other useful information. But I am still confused as to how to proceed with pumps. We have a 215g reef ready Oceanic. It came with the standard dual overflows with two 1/34 inch <One and three quarter diameter holes I'll take it> pre-drilled holes in each. We have a MRC 450g high-flow reef sump that will be connected to this system. This will be a reef and fish system with sand and liverock. We installed our tank in the wall of our living room, and the back of the tank is inside our utility room. The sump is not directly underneath the tank, but off to the right, crating a 6 foot return to one overflow and a 2 foot return to the other. <Umm, I'd use both these lines as overflows... either have the tank further drilled or just return the water from the sump over the top of the display tank> We are not concerned with the noise of the pumps we use as all equipment will be housed in this utility room which is pretty well insulated for noise already. So my question is, what type of pump should we be purchasing for the returns? I have read information on your site which recommends Iwakis, but I am at a loss for what the appropriate gph is needed for this system. <... well, there are a few "ways to go" here... I wouldn't rely on a/one single pump to circulate water from the sump AND provide internal flow. I'll present what I would do here as my one best choice (there are others)... So... for the sump itself, you can 'guess-timate' what flow per given head, turns... I'd look into a fractional horsepower Sequence Pump... see here for their calculator: http://www.mdminc.com/SEQChooseYourPump.aspx of about 900 actual gallons (all that can really "fit" through one of the drilled through-puts safely... lest the other become occluded)... read here re: http://wetwebmedia.com/BulkheadFloRateArt.htm... and add some internal pumping... My choice? Vortechs...> And I am confused about whether we should have a separate pump for each return or be getting a larger pump and t-ing the returns. <I'd run the returns on one pump, make a discharge as pictured here: http://wetwebmedia.com/pbh2oret.htm> (Our protein skimmer is external and comes with it's own pump if that helps). I have tried reading the FAQs but I got even more confused. Anything you can tell me would be great. And I have attached a picture of how the tank and sump are configured in relationship to each other. Thanks. Christine <Take your time here... realize your goals and the inherent limitations in the openings you have... Bob Fenner>

Re: Pump Recommendation 6/19/09
Scott: as per your recommendation I ordered the 2 1262 Eheims.....now if you please- do you have an opinion on the new Tunze recirculation silence pumps??
<I have never personally used these, but am a fan of anything this particular company puts out.>
Also can you recommend a single pump that will deliver 1200 gph to the tank not too loud and no flow accelerator will be used....just up and over the side of the tank from about 52" below in the sump?????
<Ocean Runner 6500 or Reeflo Snapper will do the trick.>
Thanks in advance...
Ron
<Welcome, Scott V.>

Re: Pump Recommendation 6/25/09
FYI : the Eheims were an excellent suggestion...I am extremely pleased....
thanks....will the use of the eductors shorten the pump life in any way ?
<They are great pumps. Most pumps will actually last longer with this type of restriction on them. Scott V.>

Re: Pump Recommendation 6/25/09
That's great to know...thanks Scott ...and BTW : Glass-holes.com is the best !! I wear my t-shirt every chance I get ....thanks...
Ron
<Ahh, great to know, I will CC this to Mike too. Thanks!>

Replacement Pump For Solano Nano Tank 6/7/09
Hey Guys,
<Hello Samantha>
my husband and I both have Solano 34g nano tanks. Set up as reef tanks we've had great success with them but recently both our pumps have gone out, mine being the latest. And we've had to rig replacements since I can't seem to find a true replacement from Solano or anywhere else. Do you'll suggest anything else I should or could do to continue to have optimal skimmer performance. I appreciate any input.
<Have you contacted Current USA on this? Forward this to info@current-usa.com.>
Thanks
<Your welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Samantha Serie

Lateral "head", circ. pump sel.    5/2/09
Good morning ! This site is an unbelievable source of invaluable info, and I thank you!
<Hail! And welcome>
My question is trying to figure out a return pump (external) for my application and head pressure.
<Ok>
90 gallon reef, but with a 30 gallon sump and 15 gallon 'fuge that is located remotely-down in my basement.
Can only see info on calculating loss of GPH on vertical head. I have 10 feet of this...but also an additional 12 feet of lateral 1"pvc. All 45 deg. angles until it splits at the tank into ¾" pvc,(2 outlets, 2 loclines outlets on each) there are a couple 90 deg angles. I assume I need to figure in lateral distance due to friction/parasitic loss, but don't know how to do this...should I consider ALL plumbing as vertical head to be safe?
<Mmm, one approach, but there are some other approximations of use here... One aspect that you don't mention that IS of more importance is induced drag... such small diameter piping has a good deal of this with increasing flow>
Or would I end up way overpowering my drain to the sump?
<Not possible if you've provided sufficient numbers, diameters (plural) of overflows/plumbing>
Going by most recommendations, I'm looking for 1000-1500 gph return flow. All pumps are NOT created or rated equal.
<This is indeed so>
Pump manufacturers use their own graphs on vertical head vs. gph output vs. current draw....
<Mmm, and typically ones that aren't "too fallacious">
and purchasing the wrong pumps to utilize the pickle bucket measurement is not a viable option.
<Agreed>
Keeping in mind my 1" drain line, can you recommend a good quality external pump (mfg/model) that will be adequate for my needs, but at the same time I won't find myself trying to restrain a fire hose thru choking off flow? I am assuming I will need to supplement in tank with powerheads....
<You would do well to understand pressure as well as desired flow/capacity... Do a bit of reading re our individual preferences (makes/models) here: http://wetwebmedia.com/pumpselmar6.htm
and the linked files above>
Thanks so much for your time!!
Kent Warren
Delta Air Lines
<Ooh, reminds me... I've got to use my 234,848 ff miles soon... thank goodness you code-share with NWA (HI, Bonaire...). Bob Fenner>

Micro Fauna Damage 04/28/09
Dear Crew:
I am in search of a study regarding the effect pump impellers may have on micro fauna and, if indeed there is significant mortality does impeller design along with GPH/RPM play a role in either increased or decreased
micro fauna mortality?
<I am unaware of any "studies" per se, but I do know that such things do kill many types of larvae (especially crustacean larvae apparently). This is why, when raising/breeding different inverts (such as crustaceans, snails, etc.) one must use a tank with an airstone and/or undergravel filters (or other such "gentle" form of filtration) to raise the larvae/juveniles (this is true of most fish larvae/juveniles as well). As
for other micro fauna, I do believe it just depends. Clearly, pod and worm populations of many species found in our systems seem largely unabated by such impellers.>
Thank You,
Benjamin
<De nada,
Sara M.>

Water pump sel.  4/10/09
Best brand water pump for silence. I have a quiet one3000 that is quiet but I want something a bit stronger. When I hooked my uv up to my system the flow from tank to sump went way down. So I bought a quiet one4000 and it is loud and vibrates and actually has very little flow difference. Just wondering pump suggestion? Is eheim good and quiet?
<They are, and very true to the flow rating...you cannot go wrong with a 1262 for what you are looking for here.>
Thanks.
PS your book is a very good read. Pages are getting worn out already from all the reading.
<Ah, Bob will be happy to hear this!>
Happy Easter!
<You too.>
Sent from Penny Pendergraft
<Scott V.>

Re: Water pump 4/10/09
Thank you for your fast response.
<Welcome.>
I will go with the eheim then. I sure hope it's quiet. For the price it should be. Haha.
<Never a 100% guarantee, but these pumps have never let me or anyone I have talked to about them down!>
Sent from Penny Pendergraft
Ellcar Ventures Ltd.
<Scott V.>

Spare/Replacement Pump – 04/04/09
Hello,
<<Howdy>>
I Have a Pro Clear Aquatics Wet- Dry filter for my 75 gal tank. I would like to have a back-up submersible pump for the CAP 1800. Any suggestions?
<<Hmm… A Mag-Drive 5 would make for a good backup to this system. But if you want the best re quality and reliability, go with the Eheim 1260. You could use the Eheim as your primary pump (install a gate-valve on the output-side of the pump to temper flow, if needed) and rest easy…and hold on to the CAP pump as the emergency backup, that you would likely not need for many years>>
Thanks, Michael
<<Happy to share… EricR>>

Flow and Pump Question for Scott V.  2/25/09
Hey Scott,
<Randy.>
You had helped my out a while back on a few flow related question so I wanted to run something past you real quick before I order the wrong pump.
<Okay.>
I have a custom ordered 90 gallon Oceanic reef ready tank with Starfire front glass. I will be using both of the holes in the overflow for the drains. They are both 1.5" wide holes(measured glass size). I will be using a 30 gallon in the stand for a sump. I have picked up from my LFS the stock AGA slip bulkheads(in my research I have found that these are not always common but the 90 gallon came with one for the drain.) They allow for 2 - 1.25 pool sized flex hoses. These seem to be slightly larger than the std. 1" drain bulkheads, I was gonna hard pipe it but the opening in the LFS AGA slip/thrd bulkheads we smaller for the same size glass hole. Both drains will run maybe 10-12 inches almost straight down into a 300 micron hang on sump bag. Within this chamber I have an Aqua C EV180 w/ mag7 pump. Then thru 2 over unders to the final return sump. I have built some custom overflow drains from the "hoffer gurgle" design with 1.5inch main reduced down at the bulkhead. The return pump (TBD) will run thru 1" spa line to a T(mid height at the rear of the tank) then split out into 2-- 3/4"s(also spa line) to return over the lip with the std black 3/4" pre bent modular returns. The tank will be full reef (transferred from my 46 bow full reef w PC's -been running for 3+ years very successfully) with softies and LPS's. In tank I will have 2 -Hydor Koralia 3's for flow directed off the glass.
<Okay.>
So here is the question: I am looking to find a economical, reliable and efficient return pump. I love the MAG's and the Eheims but for power consumption and price respectively I am looking toward other options. What do you think of the Ocean runner 3500 for this particular setup?
<The Ocean Runner pumps are a great series, my favorite for the money, just hard to get in a timely manner at times.>
Will it be enough for the 2 - 1.25" pool line drains without inducing additional unnecessary noise due to siphoning??
<It is a strong pump for these lines…do plan on throttling the pump back with a ball valve on the output or just go with the 2500.>
Are they pretty reliable?
<Very much so in my experience…I have used these pumps a lot over the years.>
I see the Quite One 4000 could work also and is definitely cheaper but I read mixed reviews on these and the Oceanrunners. Any thoughts?
<Go with the OR here.>
Also, on the 90 I will be adding a 6 bulb T5 fixture. I have it narrowed down to either a Nova Extreme Pro 6x54w or a Tek light of the same config. Of course I am leaning toward to extreme Pro due to cost, included bulbs, dust cover and legs. Is the Tek really that much better? I see the boast over a 300% increase in directed output due to their reflector but the Extreme Pro also has a curved reflector-not sure of the increases output from the Extreme Pro. Any thoughts?
<This gets to be a hot subject in many of the online forums. I personally see little difference between the two style of reflectors, there are many that will argue with me to the death about that. I would love to actually see a quantified study on the subject, much like Sanjay Joshi’s work with MH. But I know of none. If anyone else knows of one, we would love to see it!>
Also I have a med. yellow tank in the 46 bow and would like to add another tank. Which may be best for this size tank and compatibility with the yellow tang? Other fish include your basic reef safe-Ocellaris Clown, yellow watchmen, 2 Firefish, 1 cardinal and 2 yellow tail damsels. I know a Blue Hippo will work but I have one in my 120 FOWLR and would like to try something else.
<Hmmm, I would not add another tang to this size tank. Even the smaller species require a fair bit of swimming space.>
Thanks as always for your help and everyone’s contribution to our hobby and this site-It's a great site.
<Welcome, thank you.>
Randy

Re: Pump Selection 12/28/08
Hmm, looking at the ocean runner. Is the 6500 too much for my 120 gal tank with 2, 1 inch drains with 4.5 foot head? Keeping marine and soft corals?? Or is the runner 3500 enough??
<I've erred here somewhat on the pump suggestions. With two 1 inch drains, you need to look at a pump in the range of 1000gph. If it's a little too much you can always throttle down the pump. I'd rather have a little too much pump than not enough. James (Salty Dog)>
<<Mmm, not after it's pumped the water onto your floor... Better to get "just about the right "size", flow/pressure characteristics pump... And again, this amount of water cannot be conveyed safely through these two one inch inside diameter lines... would have to rely on siphoning (noisy, unreliable)... IF one line becomes occluded or the siphon stop (WILL happen), water will be pumped into the tank faster... overflow... RMF>>

Re: Pump Selection 12/28/08
Is it 1200gpm or 1200gph.
<Wowsie, 1200gpm, nope is 1200gph.>
Will my (2) I inch drains handle that at 4.5 foot head?
<Probably not, depending on your head loss. James (Salty Dog)>
<<Will NOT. I would re-drill, have two 1 1/2" drain lines. RMF>> 

Re: Pump Selection: Scott V. input 12/28/08
Hmm, looking at the ocean runner. Is the 6500 too much for my 120 gal tank with 2, 1 inch drains with 4.5 foot head? Keeping marine and soft corals?? Or is the runner 3500 enough??
<I've erred here somewhat on the pump suggestions. With two 1 inch drains, you need to look at a pump in the range of 1000gph. If it's a little too much you can always throttle down the pump. I'd rather have a little too much pump than not enough. James (Salty Dog)>
<<I would like to add for the benefit of all those reading that a 1" bulkhead will only flow 300 gph without siphoning (read: safely). Anyone with a couple of 5 gallon buckets, 1" plumbing, water and a timer can quantify this! Also, the pump may be throttled back, but there is also significant danger running an overflow to max. See here regarding redundancy and sizing drains: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pbholessizeplace.htm. In other words to do this safely you will need a pump that will give you 300 gph at head height, seriously. This really is the problem with many of the overflows out there, the throughputs are just flat out too small! Scott V.>>

Re: Pump Selection 12/28/08
Question, if I do get powerheads (Hydor Koralia) and a submersible pump. What size pump (gph) and what size Hydor 3 or 4. Again with (2) 1 inch drains into a sump. A 4 foot tank by two foot. Which I will house marine and soft corals. Difficult to calculate the right amount of flow.
<Mmm, not difficult at all, just strive for 10 to 12x flow rate for the size of tank you have. In your case, 1200 to 1400 would work well.
Do read here and other related articles/FAQ's. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i1/Powerhead_test/powerhead_comp.htm
James (Salty Dog)> 

More re: pumps... actually one inch ID lines/drainage  12/28/08
Bob,
Don't believe I've erred here. I'm running a little over 500gph full bore with just one 1" return line, so my suggestion of about 1000gph with two 1" lines and a 4 1/2" foot head doesn't seem out of line unless the guys got 90's in his feeds.
James
<James, I'm always trying to err on the side of absolute redundancy in such matters... What happens if one of these siphons stops, gets clogged? Again... I do respect that you, I, everyone has different experiences, results... and I do agree that one line of one inch ID can/will in most cases siphon 500 plus gallons of water at any drop... but will it do 1000? No... Cheers, BobF>

More re: pumps  12/29/08
Bob,
<James>
Agree here, and is one reason I despise siphon tube type returns. I've used them before and am always tinkering with them, bubbles trapped in the neck for the most part. Have found that if you size the siphon return type overflow close to the pump output, they work much better. The velocity of the water through the tube reduces trapped bubbles in the neck. I've never had a problem with drilled returns clogging up, but then again, I generally check this on a daily basis. Well Bob, the old fart is 63 today.
<Ahh! Happy bday!>
Life goes by much too fast, doesn't seem that long ago when I was a "young" 50.
Regards,
James
<Indeed "tempus fugit!" for sure. Let's enjoy ourselves while we're about! BobF>

Eheim pumps 12/28/08
<Hello Joe. Minh at your service.>
Do you know much about the eheim compact 5000 pump?
<Although the Eheim Compact series of pumps have not been available in the North American market for long, Eheim is very well-known for producing excellent pumps in the Universal Hobby pump series.>
Looking to buy it if it is quiet and can it be used to circulate water into a sump at 5 ft head. not much info online about this pump. Big Als Canada now carries it. It sounds like a quiet pump. Can i use it for this application??
<Based on the specs of this pump, it should deal with the 5 ft of head just fine. A quick search on a UK-based aquarium forum, Ultimate Reef, shows an interesting review comparing the Eheim Universal Hobby pump with the Eheim Compact pump: http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/showthread.php?t=252194.
You can review the thread for others' first hand experience with this pump.
Good luck, Minh Huynh.>

Return Pumps 11/29/08
I am in the process of upgrading my tank to a 180-gallon acrylic. So far I have done everything you guys recommend
in your faq and from your response to my previous email. As a refresher my 72x24x24 acrylic (live in CA) has two overflows for redundancy with 1.5" drains and 3/4" returns pipes. What size return pump do you recommend for this setup? I was thinking somewhere in the range of 1700gph but one of my LFS said I would be fine with just an Eheim 1262 with 900gph.
What do you say, closer to 1700gph or 900gph? Thank you very much.
<The Eheim is a very nice pump; quiet and dependable. The flow is plenty through your sump and will be just about 1/2 of what two 1.5" bulkheads can handle (with a bit of head pressure on the pump), putting you right at the 100% redundancy. Welcome, Scott V.>

Closed Loop vs Vortech MP40w, Oceanic vs Aqueon 11/4/08
Hello WWM,
<Hello Ryan.>
Let me start off with you guys are great I spend days reading information on your website, the information is truly overwhelming but super informative. One suggestion for your website…. Could you make it look more like an excel spreadsheet? Then my boss will think I am working when I am reading!
<Ahhh, a good idea ? Glad you have found the site of so much use!>
I have had a 70 gallon reef running for 6 years and am ready to take the plunge into a bigger tank. My current setup is a disaster waiting to happen. I have two CPR over flows (the biggest ones they make) off the back of the tank draining at full capacity into my refugium/sump. And actually I to put one of the out puts of one of the CPRs directly into the chamber of the refugium where the pump connects because the refugium could not handle all of that water flow. My Dolphin Amp Master 3000 pumps the water back into the tank with 4 - ½ inch nozzles and a manifold 1 ½ pvc with about 40 1/8 inch holes down behind 120 pounds of Fiji live rock.
<That is a lot of flow for the boxes to handle!>
I know the tank is more rock that anything. The water movement is great my fish and soft corals love it but it took a lot of work to keep it from sand storming. This setup did cure my hair algae battle I fought for a couple of years. The Chaetomorpha in my refugium grows like a weed; I have to groom it down all the time. Also the halimeda in my tank grows like no other as well. I have some candy corals that I have split a few times, various polyps, and Xenias that are growing like crazy. Along with a yellow tang, some Chromis, and maroon clown. My snails and hermit crabs are doing great and I have a Stomatella population thriving. The problem which I am sure you have noticed is the overflow boxes, and the water levels to keep the pump not blowing air are at capacity. I put a ball valve on the return side of the pump to try and line it up with the overflows. Yes it has resulted in a couple of floods, my wife not so happy.
<I'll bet.>
I realize this potential disaster but have figured the wrath can't be that bad……
My wife has limited my spending (like so many others) so I have been saving for a while. I want to make sure I am heading down the right path. I realize there are many different ways to accomplish the same thing but I am sure your collective infinite wisdom will be priceless.
<Will try.>
For the Tank I am looking at the Aqueon 180 with built in overflows. Realizing it is not drillable for my Dolphin Amp Master 3000/4000, or the Oceanic 178 or 215 (with over overflows) that would be drillable.
<Do keep in mind the Aqueon can be drilled through the back/sides.>
I want to run the overflows down to my refugium/sump and run a small pump (1200 GPH) back up for filtration.
<These overflows typically have 1" drains, which are in reality only good for 300 gph per. You can special order any of these tanks with larger/more holes predrilled for a small charge per hole.>
Obviously that will not be enough water turnover through those alone so I was going to drill 2 inch bulkheads (Qty 2) for a closed loop with my Dolphin Amp Master. Then at my LFS I found the Vortech MP40w's. I could go with the cheaper Aqueon tank and not have to drill but still keep the interior of the tank clean (No power heads/pumps visible.) Also I would not void the warranty by drilling the Oceanic Tank.
<Reason to have them do it!>
Realizing the money I save from going with the Aqueon Tank I will be paying more for the set of MP40w's with controller, but again would keep my warranty on the tank.
So really I need a shove in the direction of the best way to turn over water in my tank between these two options????? I read up on your website about these Vortech pumps and I didn't find much….. Any new experience on reliability and functionality of this product?
<They have vastly improved in quality over the few years out on the market, you won't go wrong with these.>
They are pricey but if they get the job done maybe worth it long term??
<They are IMO, you savings in power monthly will be noticeable over the Dolphin. More traditional powerheads can do the same for less, but then you have powerheads!>
My thought is 1200 GPH through the refugium is plenty for filtration?
<Or 600 gph, tis enough for filtration.>
So what is the best way to increase circulation?
<The Vortechs/powerheads.>
Also is Oceanic tanks that much better than Aqueon (both made by the same company) is it worth it and still go with Vortech pumps requiring me to save a little longer?
<Not IMO, unless you want to spend the big bucks on the Oceanic Starphire tanks.>
Or is the versatility of a closed loop system (water flow in any direction) better than the Vortechs?
<It is a tradeoff, but experimenting with the placement on the Vortechs, good flow can be achieved.>
Wow so I have reread this questions a few times I apologize for its length. Any help and advice at all would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Ryan
<Welcome, have fun, Scott V.>

Noisy Pump 10/17/08
Hello—First I want to say thank you for running this site. It is a great help to me.
<Glad you have found it of use!>
I have learned more from this site than any other source. I am in the process of setting up a 210 gallon Hawaiian-themed FOWLR tank.
<Nice, I am throwing around the same idea.>
Right now I am having some serious issues with my return pump and the noise it generates. I have gotten several ideas for dealing with it from reading your FAQs. The pump is still very noisy however. Here is the setup: In our basement family room I have the 210 tank up against a wall. The overflow plumbing runs through a hole in the wall into the utility room, where I have a 50 gallon Rubbermaid container as the sump. The return pump is a Mag-Drive 24. It is quite noisy in the utility room, which is to be expected. However, you can hear the pump quite clearly from the family room as well. In fact, you can literally hear the pump running from every room in the house, including the upstairs bedrooms (our house is a split-level). So you can imagine my frustration and my wife’s irritation.
<Gee, I can imagine.>
The noise is not a vibrating or a rattling, nor is it any sort of water-related sound. It is the sound of a motor running. Here is what I have done to attempt to quiet the pump. First I put a silicone pot-holder under the pump. This did a good job of quieting the pump’s vibration against the sump. However you could still hear the motor running. Other things I did include: adding a second silicone pad, removing the pre-filter from the pump (an idea I got from your FAQs), restricting the flow with a valve and then opening it up again to try to flush out any air pockets (also from your FAQ), I also stuffed towels around and through the hole that was cut in the wall to muffle any noise escaping through the hole, and finally I went so far as to install that pink fiberglass insulation in the utility room walls, but even that is not muffling the pump much. Each of these things seemed to have a positive impact on the noise, but unfortunately it is still really loud. Is it possible my pump is defective?
<Possibly, in a way. Do take the pump apart an be sure your rotor shaft is not broken, it sure may be and an easy fix (replace it!). It is also possible you just have a rotor that is plain out of balance, but these large MagDrive pumps are not the quietest things anyhow.>
It seems to run fine, but with noise like this the situation is not going to last. Right now I am looking into buying a different pump.
<I would, for the noise and power consumption.>
I thought Mag-Drives were supposed to be reasonably quiet, but mine definitely is not. This is not my first sump return-pump, so I have some experience in quieting them, but this pump is beyond my abilities. So I have two questions: First, do you have any other ideas to quiet the pump?
<The one thing I would try is some flexible plumbing. This can have quite an impact on transferred noise, but if it is the pump noise itself it will only help a bit. Look for flexible PVC, sold as SpaFlex in many hardware stores. If you do use this, make sure to use a solvent rated for flexible PVC, such as Christy’s Red Hot.>
Secondly, can you recommend a quiet pump? Obviously I still need a decent flow rate, but I am willing to sacrifice some of that in order to quiet the noise.
<No need to sacrifice, in fact you will gain with lower power consumption!! Do look at the Reeflo line, the Dart or Snapper for your application. They are the exact same pump with different $25 impellers, this gives you cheap options for flow. These pumps offer great flow, relatively cheap power consumption, and are virtually dead silent.>
Thank you so much for any help you can give.
Tom
<Welcome, this is a completely solvable problem. I do urge you in this case to seek the new pump. Scott V.>

Re: Pump Noise 11/7/08
Scott:
<Hello again Brandon.>
For a heads up, I discovered a large part of my problem with my pump (the Mag7). Once you remove the shroud, there is a small (but most definitively problematic) tab where the injection mold formed, and this tab actually rubs on the impeller!
<Yikes! Playing card in spokes!>
I looked carefully at the old one - it was grooved. I looked at the new one, and after 60 seconds of use, it, too, was becoming grooved. I filed this tab off, and it is the quietest I have EVER heard this pump.
<Good to hear.>
I'm not sure if this is a common problem, but I thought I would share what helped me out.
<Not to my knowledge, I do hope not.>
Thanks again for all of your input earlier on!
-Brandon
<Welcome, happy it worked out, Scott V.>

Re: Pump Choices, Design in General Reef 11/2/08
Also Scott, is there a particular model you recommend from Reeflo that would move the same volume? Thanks again...
<Look at the Snapper and Dart models, quite a bit of flow for the power used, and near dead silent.>

One Monster Pump 9/30/08
Good Morning!
<Good morning your way too!>
I've been looking and having a hard time deciding on the right pump.
The pump I'm looking for will have to go up 14 feet from basement to 180g tank on first floor.
I think 800 gph will be about the right rate of flow.
The route from the basement to the 2 returns is pretty straight...will be using pvc flex hose for the most part.
Any suggestions of pumps(brands) would be great!
<I would start with looking at the Reeflo line, the Tarpon or Wahoo will suit your application well. The Iwaki pumps are a favorite too, just be sure to pay particular attention to the power consumption as well as the flow curves, the power use varies quite a bit from pump to pump in this size range.
A few links to the flow curves to these particular pumps below.>
Thanks
<Welcome, have fun, Scott V.>
http://www.reeflopumps.com/pressurebiaseduno.html
http://www.iwakiamerica.com/products/wmd_curves.htm

Re: One Monster Pump 9/30/08
Thanks for the suggestions.
<Glad to help.>
I've been thinking about the Sequence pumps. Is it ok to use a gate valve on the output side of the Reeflo pumps to turn down the flow if necessary?
<Yes, it definitely is. The pump will actually work a bit less (pumps are counterintuitive) and consume a bit less power. Scott V.>

Re: One Monster Pump 10/1/08
One more question....
I will also be having a frag tank in the basement(60 gallons) that will be draining into the same sump as the 180g. Should I get a separate return pump for the frag tank or would it be ok to plumb a return line from the return pump that will be pushing water back up to the 180g?
<Either option will work fine, the latter will save you a pump to buy/run!>
BTW....the sump in the basement is approximately 180 gallons too.
<Nice setup!>
Thanks once again!:
<Welcome, very happy to help out. Scott V.>

Rio and Catalina Pumps  9/29/08
Hi Crew
<Hi Jamie>
I have a quick question. Are the Catalina and Rio brand pumps the same?
<No I don't believe so.>
I have a pump on my sealife skimmer and the impeller is gone. The sticker on the pump is completely faded. I tried to ID online and it looks just like a rio and a Catalina??? Are they the same? I cant find an impeller for a Catalina pump but can for a rio pump?
<If you do a search for 'Catalina Aquarium' you should find the impellors.>
 Are the impellers the same for rio 1700 2100 and 2500? Any help I would appreciate it. Thanks Crew!
<Thanks for the email..Good luck and take care!! BrianG>

Right Pump Size for 90 Gallon    9/20/08
Dear WWM crew,
<Hello!>
I have a question regarding my intake pump, and what size I should use?
<Depends largely on your outflow size.>
I have a 90 gallon which is going to be mixed reef with a lot of SPS and LPS, so I want a high turnover rate, but I am not sure how strong of a pump I am going to need?
Right now I have 2 Mag Drive 12 submersible pumps, which at 4' still pump about 1130 gph. I was planning on running this through my squid and then will go through 3 more elbows before it goes into the tank. So the pump
will have a total height of about 4' with a squid to go through and 3 elbows.
If I were to go this way do you think that would be s strong enough pump.
My second question is how to plumb my chiller?
I have another Mag drive 12 which I was going to separately run through that only and then back to the sump.
<Would work.>
Is this a good idea to have one pump designated to the chiller, and then a main pump designated for plumbing water back into the tank?
<Would decrease head on the pump, but your maximum flow-through should be determined by your overflow size.>
I would like to ideally just have one pump which would run through the chiller (which sits right next to the tank) and then to the squid and tank.
<Unless you have a very large overflow fitting, you probably can't handle the full potential of these pumps, which means that you'd be throttling back the Mag12 to prevent overflowing anyhow- so the extra head from the chiller really wouldn't be an issue.>
I was thinking a Mag Drive 18 would have enough power to do this, but I am not sure, what do you guys think?
<Depends. What diameter is the outflow?>
Thanks for your input!
Alex Jacobs
<Benjamin>

Eductors on non pressure rated pump return? 9/14/08
Hi Crew! Thanks for all you folks do!
<Hi there John, thank you!>
I have read a little about flow accelerators / eductors, but am having a hard time assessing their value on non-pressure rated pumps.
<Basically the same value as pressure rated pumps from an aquarium point of view. The short run of restriction on these does not necessitate the use of a pressure rated pump.>
Background: I refinished an older 75G flat back hex DAS tank which I drilled for two 1.5 inch bulkheads (I took out the lame corner box). The two drain lines run to a 30 gallon sump . One runs straight to the skimmer chamber, while the other passes the refugium and drops water, via a teed ¾ ball valve, into the refugium before continuing on to the skimmer. Pic previously posted here (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/SystemPIX/aquarium_cabinet_and_sump_rear_removed.jpg).
<Nice setup.>
My return is an Oceanrunner 6500 marketed at 1625 gph. However, with 4 vertical feet, two 45 degree elbows, a unioned ball valve, a tee reducing the 1 inch return line to two ¾ inch lines and 90s on each of these ¾ inch lines I am probably getting 1000 or less.
<Likely, a fair estimation.>
I have a couple of Koralia Nanos for corner flow and a Maxijet driving a UV and a Phosban reactor. I could use more flow.
<Possibly dependant on what you keep. What is listed is a fair bit of flow.>
While I understand the basic concept of eductors, I don’t know whether there would be any benefit in a non-pressure rated set up like mine. Do you think there would be any value to me adding eductors at the end of the return lines with the pressure I am getting from the OR?
<May be worth a try if you wish. These really just exchange one type of flow to another; a flow with high velocity for a flow with high volume.>
Would changing anything on my plumbing make this feasible?
<Your plumbing sounds fine.>
Thanks in advance!
John / Fishnu
<Welcome, Scott V.>