Freshwater Moray Eels
I really appreciate the time that you took for this site.
<Ah, you're welcome. It was made for you.>
I would like to buy a fresh water Moray Eel. I guess I need some help and no one in pet stores really know anything about freshwater. I am going to put it in a 75-100 gallon tank. What kind of sand should I put down? 
<Something fine/r... and calcareous. Please see the "Marine Substrates" section and "Moray Eels" under the Marine Index (the freshwater species are touched on there)>
Is possible to order a fish through the mail?
<Certainly>
Can I feed them gold fish? And better yet how about a book on fresh water moray. This would really help.
<Not really goldfish, but other live or frozen/defrosted meaty foods. Take a look at the WWM site cited, then fishbase.org then your search engines under "Freshwater Morays">
Thanks,
Michael
<Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner>

Re: Freshwater Moray Eels
Thanks for getting back to me. I have called all over the place in Virginia looking for a "fresh water moray eel' I have had 0 luck! Do you know of a place that I could order one through the mail or call. <Take a look at the livestock etailers listed on our site (www.WetWebMedia.com) Links Pages>
I have also had no luck looking for a book. <See the "Moray Eels" section on the WWM site>
I figure that I will get a 75 gallon tank with heaters that will keep the tempter a 70-80.{F}. I will have a 2 caves in it so that it can hide and the sand that you recommended. I will buy a power filter. Do you think that I will need a skimmer?
<Probably not a skimmer if you are going to try keeping the water entirely fresh... do take a look through Fishbase.org under the term "freshwater moray". Bob Fenner>
Thanks again,
Michael Davis

Gymnothorax polyuranodon
Hi Anthony! I
<Cheers my friend... and an update: THIS JUST IN: Bob Fenner was recently spotted in a quiet inlet snorkeling with what appeared to be a cluster of helium balloons tethered to his back. When asked what the deal was with the helium balloons, he claimed that he had difficulties securing proper diving gear in this remote location. However, the beer cans strewn about the boat deck and piled up against the helium tank near the tape recorder tell a different story. Look for a Christmas album from Bob this December>
just bought a 'freshwater eel'. Noted in past FAQs that you have recommended addition of salt to the water so that they might survive in the long run. 
<yes...depends on the species. Many are born in freshwater and venture out to the sea. As such, they really cannot be considered freshwater. Brackish is often better. Your species is actually a more freshwater tolerant animal. Still... some salt would be nice. Do read more: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwmorayeels.htm>
But if I have Bichirs in the tank will the salt affect them? I read that they are true freshwater species. What about fire eels that are a foot long?
Will the salt affect them as well? Do fire eels need salt??
<the fire ell is an "Asian" fish (Sumatra, Indochina, Thailand, etc) that prefers soft, acidic water... nothing like your Gymnothorax polyuranodon. Essentially... one of the two is going to be compromised with regard for pH, alkalinity and salinity to a lesser extent. Still... they are hardy... it may not be much of a problem. I must admit that I wouldn't mix them... but if you do not intend to try to breed them you may be just fine>
I keep dwarf puffers in the tank as well. 15 of them actually. They are pretty small at the moment. I heard someone say that if these puffers are swallowed, they will actually inflate such that the aggressor will
have no choice but to spit the puffer out. My concern is if the puffer makes it into the stomach and then inflates. Will it kill my eels? 
<certainly, but is more likely that their toxic flesh will kill the eels first...hehe>
My grouper (abt 12cm) ate one of my puffers and then looked like he wanted to puke it out... But by then he had already swallowed it. He looked pretty uncomfortable after eating the puffer... I am monitoring the situation and will let you know if the grouper makes it through the night!
=P
<please do>
Thanks so much for your advice on medicating fire eels. You are much funnier than Bob. Hahaha... (no offense meant to Bob of course) Well I look forward to your insight once again. Thanks a bunch!!
<ahhh... thank you kindly, but you haven't been around Bob enough. He has an enormous funny bone (insert your own joke here). Hehehe. Best regards, Anthony>

Re: Gymnothorax polyuranodon
Hi Anthony! Thanks again for your SUPER fast response!
<that's what you get when you post a question to someone that doesn't work a real job <wink>>
Here are more questions...
I am now in doubt as to what species my eel really is.
It could be a tile, polyuranodon or rhodochilus. I'm pretty confused now. I want to keep this eel for a long time so I have noticed your recommendation for some salt to be added. However, I noted in your last msg that the polyuranodon is ok in freshwater? 
<lets be clear about this... it is more tolerant of freshwater and brackish water than most morays... but it is not ideal by any stretch of the imagination... please do read Bobs articles/archives on this species>
So does that mean its not necessary to add salt? 
<not even close, my friend... I personally would keep this animal at 1.005-1.010 SG>
What about the other 2 species I mentioned above? Do either of them have good long term prospects in freshwater?
<1.005 is safe and a recommended bare minimum for the true moray eels>
My eel is about a foot long and its roughly the thickness of an index finger. Its not eating yet but I just got it yesterday so... 
<I won't be surprised either if it begins to do better when more salt is added. Do use a hydrometer too please>
Anyway it looks pretty pale in color (pinkish/translucent) and its mottled with pretty light yellow spots. Sort of yellow... Its
design looks something like your pic of the polyuranodon except that it does not have such striking color distinction. It just looks pale. Any idea which one it is?
<couldn't say for certain without seeing it and even then...?>
Assuming I do add salt. My tank is about 15 US gallons.
Its a 2 ft tank measuring 60x30x35cm. Does that mean roughly 1 gram of salt per gallon? Your recommendations in the FAQ is one teaspoon (5gms) per 5 US gallons? 
<that will get you in the ballpark, but a glass hydrometer is less than ten dollars and is quite easy to use... highly recommended>
I also keep a caecilian and dwarf puffers in the tank. I think the caecilian is able to tolerate 5 gm.s per 5 gallons... Any comments? If I
just put 5 gm.s for 15 gallons will it make any difference at all to my moray? 
<all will tolerate the low end of the recommendation for certain>
Does salt make the water more acidic or basic?
<neither...unrelated>
I read your site's article on salt. It says,"5.5g gm.s is sufficient for 294 gallons of water." Then the next paragraph says," For simple osmoregulatory stress protection, on an indefinite basis, one can use 1 to 3 mg/L of salt. This would be equivalent to one teaspoon of salt added to 1,453 to 484 gallons of water!" Is this contradictory or does the second Para just refer to 'SIMPLE stress protection'? 
<again...you'll want to use a hydrometer and aim for 1.005 to 1.010>
What's osmoregulatory stress anyways? =) 
<respiratory distress...typically rapid breathing in eels that are too salty or not salty enough>
This might sound like a stupid question but I'll ask anyway... If salt can distress freshwater fishes at the concentration stated above, then what happens when the salinity hits 1.010? How will this salinity adversely affect true FW fishes?
<easier on the moray but harder on the spiny eels>
Will fire eels be able to withstand 1.005 - 1.010? 
<the lower end for sure...but not comfortably at the higher end>
I assume Bichirs and dwarf puffers can but can fire eels take it? I also read that spiny eels have internal parasites? Is this harmful to them? Should I feed mine some medicine or do I just leave the internal parasites alone?
<all wild fish may have them and many captive are likely as well. Do not medicate unless you need to>
Do plant fertilizers affect Bichirs or eels (morays
and spiny) adversely? 
<unlikely in low doses>
I have a huge piece of driftwood in the tank. It turns my water a very slight brown. Is this good for my eels? 
<delightful for the fire eel...but not natural for the others>
Do dissolved plants affect water chemistry greatly? Do dissolved plants and my wood turn the water more acidic or basic?
<significantly and more acidic.>
I decided to ask more direct questions 'cos I thought that it will aid you seeing as how you have such a unique way of answering everyone's questions. Hope this helps you. Thanks a bunch!!!
<thank you for saying so <smile>. Do look into a local aquarium society for networking and shared info too... they really are great places for info beyond the Internet. Kindly, Anthony>

Keeping A FW Fahaka Puffer with SW Snowflake Eels  1/5/07
Hello,
<Hi Hector, Pufferpunk here>
First off, great source of information! I am glad I found it and I have already referred some people to it.
<Fantastic!>
I have a Fahaka puffer that I got when he was 2" long.  He is now 7" long. I see that he is freshwater by reading your forums. My water is kept just below 1.002 SG.  I have two snowflake eels in the same tank. My concern is for both the eels and the Fahaka. Is that SG too high for the Fahaka and or the eels?  
<Below 1.002 will not affect the Fahaka but the eels need high-end BW or even better, marine conditions.>
It seems he will eventually eat the eels from what I've read here.  So far he has eaten two algae eaters already but both were introduced to the tank after he was a bit larger, unlike the eels. He has been in the tank for 5 months the eels are two years old.  They had encounters when the Fahaka was small and the eels have chased him away. I have caught them laying skin to skin (freaked me out!) but they seem to have a healthy respect and equal affinity towards each other at this point.
<Just don't be surprised one day, if your eels are maimed/eaten.  I'd get them in a higher salinity, without the puffer--he is a FW fish.   ~PP>  
Please advise, Hector

Re: Keeping A FW Fahaka Puffer with SW Snowflake Eels. Acclimating from BW to SW  1/6/07
Great! Thanks for the response.
I just set up a SW tank. You think the eels should be placed in that tank?
<Only if you have cycled it 1st.  Try Bio-Spira for an instant cycle.>
What is a proper way to acclimate the eels from low brackish to marine conditions?
<Personally, I would cycle the tank with FW Bio-Spira & slowly raise the SG .002/week, until you have reached your desired salinity.  Otherwise, if it  is already a cycled SW tank, use a drip system. Put the fish in a bucket below the tank you will be moving it into, covered by water from the tank the eels were living in, about 1" over its head or a little deeper, so they are comfortable.  Tie a knot in an air hose until it drips enough water into the bucket to raise or lower the SG in the bucket .001/hour.  ~PP>
Thanks a bunch!

Raising pH in Brackish Tank, "FW" Morays  7/11/06
Hi,
<Hi John, Pufferpunk here>
I am writing with a few questions for anyone who may have the time to answer them for me. All help is greatly appreciated.
<I can certainly try!>   
I have in my possession a "Freshwater" Moray Eel, about 14 inches in length. He is currently in a 55 gallon tank (48"x12"x18") with about 1/2" of gravel on bottom. I saw him for sale a while back and did some research on him before making the decision to purchase. The specific gravity of salt in the water is 1.008, according to my recently purchased hydrometer.
<I prefer refractometers--much more accurate--hydrometers can be off as much as .005.  You might want to compare the reading on your hydrometer, with a refractometer, to see if it's true.>
Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate levels are all at zero. I believe the pH is a little low for him, ranging at just over 7.5. I've had him for just over two weeks now and am having problems. :(  
My first question is should I raise the ph level?
<I would, BW fish prefer a pH of around 8.>
He is a lone inhabitant, other than food (a few guppies ranging from very small to about an inch in length and a few ghost shrimp I put in yesterday). I'm not sure of the exact pH level he would be happiest in so I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask.
Second, would he be happier if I kept him on live or switched him to frozen? I bought some frozen krill for him but he isn't taking to
that very well. If it's better for him to be on frozen, what is the best way to switch him to frozen? One person I talked to said that I should not let him eat one day, then try frozen the next and if he doesn't take to it then give him some fresh and to just keep trying that making the gaps in-between feedings longer, until he breaks and eats the frozen krill.
<You will have to "train" him to eat frozen foods (hopefully you are defrosting before feeding).  You can spear the food with a wooden stick (like the ones they use for kabobs) or you can get a plastic one at your LFS.  I'd take away his live food for about 3 days before trying this.  Then you will have to entice him, by wiggling the food around by his face (preferably in the evening, during "regular" hunting hours).  You could also bounce the food off a thread (use a needle to go through the food) but don't tie a knot in the end.  I would try a variety of foods, including silversides, people shrimp & any other odds & ends you see for sale in your grocery/produce store.>
My other problem is with his breathing. He is breathing rapidly with the same symptoms of another eel I read about in one of the FAQ’s on your site but I don't believe that low salt is the problem. Like I said the salt level is at 1.008 SG. What else could possibly cause this breathing problem? He is not eating as much now as he used to. Is it because I'm trying to switch him to frozen or because he is sick? He is displaying no outward signs of any parasitic infestation or bacterial infection. Is there the possibility of internal infection?
<Heavy breathing can be a sign of ammonia/nitrite issues, affecting the 02 levels in the water and/or burning their gills.  How long has that tank been set up?  Are you doing regular weekly water changes?  You should be seeing some detectable nitrates in a cycled BW tank.  How was the tank cycled?  How quickly did you raise the SG?  It should be only raised by .002/weekly water changes so as not I'd test the water again.>
My last question is due to fact that he is a brackish water fish.
Could I put substrate at the bottom of his tank instead of the standard fish gravel that he is in now?
<This actually goes back to your pH question & how to raise it & keep it stable around 8.  It is recommended to use crushed coral or aragonite as substrate in a BW tank.  Since you only have 1/2" of gravel in there, you could just add another inch to that.  If your gravel is dark though, you may not like the look & want to change it out completely for the buffering substrate.>
He seems to be doing just fine with the gravel--he is burrowing down under some rock I have in his tank during the day.  Kind of like a natural rock structure that he swims through and sleeps under.
<Yes, they hang out in burrows during the day & hunt at night.>
I have some knowledge about aquariums but I don't know everything
<Ha, me either!>
and hopefully you guys can help me learn a little more about this guy. I've had him for just over three weeks now. Anything you guys can share is greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time and have a great day.
John R. Ayer
<Thanks John I will (today's water change day) & enjoy this interesting creature!  ~PP>

Re: moray growth cycles   7/18/06
Thank you for your quick response. I have read that morays can live over 30 years.
<Yes, there are public aquarium records of this and longer lifespans>
Based on your information and my observations, I am almost certain my albino will have no problem making it over a year and would not be surprised to have him around for a long time.
When I first got the snowflake he went right into hiding and did not venture out for a week. My albino would not go into this area while it was hiding
<Muraenids are by and large non-social species... Don't associate with conspecifics or other members of their family>
and only my leopard bushfish and butterfly goby would go into the area with him. After he finally ventured out my albino went back into the area but so far the snowflake has been staying out and not even trying to hide except when the lights are turned on abruptly. For the week during the snowflakes hiding period the albino seemed like it did not bother him he seemed so easy going and seems not to let stress get to him. I have had the albino now almost 6 months but only about 8 days for the snowflake. If the snowflake can settle down like the albino he may live a long time too. The main factor is now they are in a 10 gallon tank
<Way too small...>
with plans to get a 125 gallon in the near future but may get a 55 first then transfer to the 125. I have other fish that I will eventually need a 55 for that are freshwater only.
I appreciate your help.
<Welcome. Keep monitoring your water quality, and keep that lid tight! Bob Fenner>

<Ongoing: brackish to marine> albino moray in a larger system... Still not reading... and raising RMF's BP   7/24/06
I have written you before on my albino moray believed to be of the species that I currently have in a 10 gallon tank. I would like to know if a 30 gallon tank would be large enough for him?
<... have you read where you've been repeatedly referred to?>
A friend said he would give me one since he was getting out of freshwater and getting into saltwater system with a larger tank. I did not know if I should put my eel in it or take my bichir and friends in it. So far my moray has never tried to escape and I have had him for a while with no lid on my tank. When he is at the top of the tank he is either hanging off the thermometer and ammonia sensor or laying on top the heater trying to catch guppies. His length is from the top of the gravel his head comes just under the black trimming of the tank on top. I so far like the idea of his eating live food and according to information I have read he will remain small enough to continue eating ghost shrimp and guppies based on the assumption his species is correct he will not get much larger than he is now.
<Will most likely be dead soon>
One last note about nitrite levels you said they should be 0 and I had said they were very low. I was going by what the test by Tetra gave me a match at less than 0.3 mg/l. Is this a good reliable test?
<Mmm, middling>
I have a rather unusual final question regarding filtration. Would using the filter that came with a whole set up like a 55 along with a small
bio wheel that was for 20 gallons be of any help or would I be better off getting a bio wheel for that size alone?
<Bigger is better>
With a moray involved I do not feel comfortable with a standard filter alone. Thank you very much I want this albino to be as happy as he can be and so far my experiences with this one has all been positive. He seems so inquisitive and easy going.
<Please... read: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwmorayeels.htm
and the linked files above. RMF>

Info about Gymnothorax tile eel   2/10/06
Greetings,
<Salutations>
I have a Gymnothorax tile eel AKA (Freshwater Snowflake Eel) and I have questions concerning his well being. Right now he lives in my 45gal Brackish water tank and seems to be doing quite well. I have had him for nearly 8 months and he is currently on a diet of squid.
<Need to expand this diet>
However I did some research on him and several articles say that this species does better in a marine type environment.
<Some do... with size/growth>
Is this true? Second most of my research says that this particular species can survive in a brackish environment but not for long term. I currently have a 65gal saltwater tank that I am currently establishing that at this moment has no fish or animals of any sort. My question to you is this, would my Gymnothorax tile eel do better in a marine type environment or can I leave him in his current brackish water home?
<Would be better in all marine>
Second, if I were to transfer him to my marine aquarium can you recommend a procedure to minimize the stress on the animal?
<Matching present spg, increasing some 0.001 to 0.002 density per week by adding/changing out water of increasing saltiness>
I have done a lot of research on this animal but it is hard to separate fact from fiction. I would hate to loose him due to my ignorance.
Many thanks in advanced
Mike Hoefnael
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>