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FAQs on Diagnosing/Identifying Freshwater Protozoan Parasite Diseases

Related Articles: Freshwater Fish Diseases, Freshwater DiseasesFW Disease Troubleshooting, Ich/White Spot Disease, Choose Your Weapon: Freshwater Fish Disease Treatment Options by Neale Monks, Formalin/Formaldehyde, Malachite Green,

Related FAQs: Freshwater Protozoan Parasite Diseases, FW Fish Parasitic Disease 1, Ich/White Spot Disease, Velvet Disease, Worm Diseases, Cichlid Disease, African Cichlid Disease, Aquarium Maintenance, FW Infectious DiseaseFreshwater MedicationsAfrican Cichlid Disease 1, Cichlid DiseaseBetta Disease 1

FW Parasites? (RMF, second opinion on the photos) 10/20/2009
Hi Crew:
<Hello Carla,>
During the past couple of months, one of my tanks has been experiencing numerous fish deaths resulting from what appear to be bacterial infections. The first to succumb was a White Cloud (Tanichthys albonubes). The next five were all Threadfin Rainbows (Iriatherina werneri). The symptoms would begin with a small whitish spot on the body ringed with red, then over the course of 7 - 10 days, the spot would spread, and I would begin to see bright red streaks around the eyes, gills, and/or base of fins (which I believe is a sign of septicaemia).
<Can certainly be the case. Can also occur as a reaction to environmental stress, the equivalent of sunburn or chemical burns on humans. All the redness means is that superficial blood vessels have become expanded or congested.>
I also occasionally saw stringy white feces on some of the fish.
<Again, this can mean a variety of things, from constipation through to Hexamita infections.>
At this point I would euthanize the fish with clove oil, but on a couple of occasions the fish died on their own. The deaths occurred one after another, not concurrently, with usually a couple of weeks between deaths.
<I see.>
At the first sign of infection, I would transfer the ill fish to my 10-gallon hospital tank, and, since I don't have much faith in antibiotic baths, treat with either Metronidazole mixed with food, or Jungle Anti-bacterial Medicated Fish Food (Sodium sulfathiazole 2.3%, Nitrofurazone 0.13%). (The fish were still eating well during the first week or so after infection.) This treatment had no effect.
<It's worth mentioning that while antibiotics can help with some (mostly opportunistic) infections, there are some primary infections, such as Mycobacteria, that are essentially untreatable.>
I realize that most bacterial infections are a sign of poor water quality, and this has me puzzled, because I am fussy about my fish. The Threadfins were even spawning within days of getting sick.
<Interesting.>
Parameters are as follows:
-40 gallon tank
-Ammonia: 0
-Nitrite: 0
-Nitrate: 0 (heavily planted)
-pH: 8.0 - 8.2
-Temperature: 25 C
-Hardness (my KH/dH test kit is in the mail, but according to our City's water quality report, the water is very hard).
-Remaining tank mates: 3 Black Mollies, 5 Dermogenys pusilla, 5 Cherry Shrimp, 1 Threadfin Rainbow (the last one), 1 White Cloud (also the last one), 1 Scarlet Badis.
-15% weekly water changes (I don't do the usual 25% because of the Halfbeaks' sensitivity to water chemistry changes).
<Fair enough.>
Since I feel my water quality is good (although perhaps the pH is too high for Threadfins and White Clouds?),
<Yes, your pH/hardness is a bit high, but in itself, this shouldn't be killing them.>
I thought perhaps a parasite was responsible for making the fish vulnerable to bacterial infections. I do on occasion see the fish flash, although oddly, never the Threadfin Rainbows. There was never any sign of Ich or Velvet. So I pulled out my old microscope, and took skin scrapings and gill samples of three of the deceased Threadfin Rainbows. Since I really had no clue what I was doing, the results of the first two fish I examined were "inconclusive." However, by the third fish, I felt I had enough practice to get an acceptable wet-mount and take a few rudimentary photographs. I would really appreciate it if someone could take a look at the attached photos and determine if there is anything suspicious. I have placed arrows near things that look suspicious (to me), but I have no experience with this and they could well be normal microscopic detritus.
<Indeed. I am not a microbiologist. I've asked Bob to chime in here. While "scinscraping1.jpg" and "scinscraping2.jpg" have circular cells in them reminiscent of the Whitespot parasite Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, I'm not enough of an expert to confirm that either way. I will make the point here that both Whitespot and Velvet are dangerous precisely because they break the skin and make the fish vulnerable to secondary infections.><<Does appear to be Ichthyophthirius... RMF>>
Please note that my microscope is a very inexpensive unit, and probably not very good, and I took the photos with my digital camera stuck up against the eyepiece, so the quality of the micrographs is not great.
<They look great to me!><<To me as well. RMF>>
If you have any tips to pass along to improve my microscopy skills, that would be great!
Thank you so much, and thanks to all the crew members who take the time to help aquarists and their charges!
Carla
<I can't offer any easy diagnosis here. I'd do a couple of things myself though. Firstly, I'd not buy either of these fish from that particular retailer again. Or at the least, not from the current batches. Obviously both White Clouds and Rainbowfish need to be kept in schools, but I'd sooner leave them as singletons for now than risk mixing them with any more possibly infected fish. I'm saying this because it's possible that whatever is killing your fish came in with these newcomers. If you can get some of these fish from a new batch a few months from now, or immediately from another retailer, then that might be an option. Either way, I'd buy one species at a time, and quarantine them for, let's say, a month in the 10 gallon tank. I'd maintain that tank as per treating Whitespot, i.e., heat (28 C/82 F for the White Clouds, and 30 C/86 F for the Rainbows) plus a little salt, 2 to 3 level teaspoons of salt per gallon. This won't stress the fish at all, but will help deal with any Ick or Velvet parasites. After a month, it should be clear whether the fish are healthy or not, in which case, you can move them to the display tank. Hope this helps, Neale.>

Re: FW Parasites? (RMF, second opinion on the photos)  10/21/09
Neale and Bob,
thank you so much for your reply.
<Neale is "marked out for Weds." Will share>
I suppose that one cell does rather resemble Ichthyophthirius. That would explain the flashing. Is there a strain of Ich that can cause a low-level, long term (2+ months) infestation, and would the Ich be hiding in the gills?
<Yes and possibly yes>
I've always assumed if Ich was left untreated, the fish would rapidly become covered with parasites and die.
<Mmm, not so... can be resident as a low-infectious population... Triggered to infection, hyperinfection by circumstances... weakening of host/s>
Although I have read that fish previously exposed to Ich (which almost all my fish were when I first acquired them), have some resistance to it.
<This seems to be the case>
I plan to eradicate the Ich using the salt/heat method, then convert this 40-gallon tank to low-end brackish for the Mollies, Halfbeaks, and Cherry Shrimp. I can move the Scarlet Badis to my heavily-planted 10-gallon (which houses one male Betta splendens and one rogue baby Molly who was banished here because she insisted on pick, pick, picking at my Halfbeaks).
I'll then re-home the Threadfin Rainbow and White Cloud with other aquarists who already have schools of these. Then, Neale, I'm going to order your "Brackish Water Fishes" book and decide on a shoaling fish and maybe a few little oddballs for my brackish tank!
<Is a worthy read>
I will follow your advice and quarantine for a month (I usually quarantine for only two weeks) and treat as for Ich with heat/salt.
Thanks again!
Carla
<Welcome Carla. BobF>

Re: FW Parasites?  10/21/09
Neale and Bob, thank you so much for your reply.
<Neale is "marked out for Weds." Will share>
<<I'm back today, though!>>
I suppose that one cell does rather resemble Ichthyophthirius. That would explain the flashing. Is there a strain of Ich that can cause a low-level, long term (2+ months) infestation, and would the Ich be hiding in the gills?
<Yes and possibly yes>
I've always assumed if Ich was left untreated, the fish would rapidly become covered with parasites and die.
<Mmm, not so... can be resident as a low-infectious population... Triggered to infection, hyperinfection by circumstances... weakening of host/s>
<<I agree with Bob here. I simply don't believe the old story of Ick "lying dormant" in the gravel for months or years, and then suddenly attacking.
Much more likely that healthy fish have immune systems that keep chronic infections at minimal levels that cause no harm, much like E. coli and humans. It's only when something goes wrong in the tank, and the fish's immune system collapses, that the formerly small Ick population multiplies dramatically.>
Although I have read that fish previously exposed to Ich (which almost all my fish were when I first acquired them), have some resistance to it.
<This seems to be the case>
I plan to eradicate the Ich using the salt/heat method, then convert this 40-gallon tank to low-end brackish for the Mollies, Halfbeaks, and Cherry Shrimp.
<Should work grand. Only a very low salinity is required, 1.002 to 1.003, and you'll find virtually all plants will thrive under such conditions.
It's such a low-cost, no-brainer approach for keeping Mollies I fail to see why people resist keeping Mollies in such very slightly saline conditions.>
I can move the Scarlet Badis to my heavily-planted 10-gallon (which houses one male Betta splendens and one rogue baby Molly who was banished here because she insisted on pick, pick, picking at my Halfbeaks). I'll then re-home the Threadfin Rainbow and White Cloud with other aquarists who already have schools of these. Then, Neale, I'm going to order your "Brackish Water Fishes" book and decide on a shoaling fish and maybe a few little oddballs for my brackish tank!
<Is a worthy read>
<<Kind of you to say so, Bob; Carla, hope you enjoy it.>>
I will follow your advice and quarantine for a month (I usually quarantine for only two weeks) and treat as for Ich with heat/salt.
Thanks again!
Carla
<Welcome Carla. BobF>
<<Good luck, Neale.>>

I really don't think it's ich
Hi, I'm writing about a problem with my Pleco.  I bought a clown Pleco recently and put it in my tank, and a few days later noticed a few white bumps on his body.  I don't think it's ich... I've had fish with that before, and ich looks like sugar or salt sprinkled on the body, right?  
<Usually, yes>
This looks more like he has warts.  They're about the size of his eye or larger.  I read up to see if it was a fungus, but all the stuff on fungus described it as "cottony"...and this isn't cottony, it's smooth.  Yesterday it spread to
our loaches... I don't know what it is, so I'm not sure how to treat it.  On that note, though, all I have in the tank are Cory cats, upside-down cats, loaches and the one Pleco.  So would I need a special medication, since they're all scaleless?
<I would treat this as it has spread... and may well be parasitic in nature... with a less toxic "ich" medicine (are good for most all external parasites) at half dose, raising your water temperature to the mid 80's F., and possibly adding a teaspoon of salt per five gallons of water (okay for Corydoras at this concentration) over a period of three days>
It's a 55-gallon with an undergravel filter, if that helps...
Thanks for your help,
Sarah
<Does help. Do monitor your nitrogen cycle and have new water available in case you need to change... Bob Fenner>

Discus with Hexamita? - 02/02/2004
Please help...I don't want to lose me discus fish. I have been treating with rid-ich for 5 days now. The ich is almost gone, but the fish have developed cloudy eyes, a whitish clear coating on their bodies and ragged fins. 
<This sounds perhaps like "skin slime disease" - caused by protozoan parasites, likely Hexamita, or possibly Ichthyobodo (Costia), Childonella, Trichodina.... All should respond favorably to Metronidazole administered in food. Metronidazole can be found made by Aquatronics (Hex-a-Mit, green or blue box) and by Seachem (simply Metronidazole).>
I have a 55 gallon aquarium. Temp is at 86 degrees. Nitrates, nitrites and ammonia are ok. Ph is at 7. I've been doing a 20 - 25% water change daily, and I added 8 tablespoons of aquarium salt to the water. Please let me know what else I should do....
<A good start - and may in and of itself effect improvement or cure. I would still treat with Metronidazole in food.>
Thank you sooooo much, Anna
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>






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