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Protozoan Parasite Diseases Related
Articles: Freshwater Fish Diseases,
Freshwater Diseases, FW
Disease Troubleshooting, Ich/White Spot
Disease,
Choose Your Weapon: Freshwater Fish Disease
Treatment Options by Neale Monks,
Formalin/Formaldehyde,
Malachite Green,
Related FAQs: Freshwater
Protozoan Parasite Diseases, FW Fish
Parasitic Disease 1, Ich/White Spot Disease,
Velvet Disease,
Worm Diseases,
Cichlid Disease,
African Cichlid Disease,
Aquarium Maintenance, FW Infectious
Disease, Freshwater Medications, African
Cichlid Disease 1,
Cichlid Disease, Betta
Disease 1,
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FW Parasites? (RMF, second opinion on the photos)
10/20/2009
Hi Crew:
<Hello Carla,>
During the past couple of months, one of my tanks has been experiencing
numerous fish deaths resulting from what appear to be bacterial
infections. The first to succumb was a White Cloud (Tanichthys
albonubes). The next five were all Threadfin Rainbows (Iriatherina
werneri). The symptoms would begin with a small whitish spot on the body
ringed with red, then over the course of 7 - 10 days, the spot would
spread, and I would begin to see bright red streaks around the eyes,
gills, and/or base of fins (which I believe is a sign of septicaemia).
<Can certainly be the case. Can also occur as a reaction to
environmental stress, the equivalent of sunburn or chemical burns on
humans. All the redness means is that superficial blood vessels have
become expanded or congested.>
I also occasionally saw stringy white feces on some of the fish.
<Again, this can mean a variety of things, from constipation through to
Hexamita infections.>
At this point I would euthanize the fish with clove oil, but on a couple
of occasions the fish died on their own. The deaths occurred one after
another, not concurrently, with usually a couple of weeks between
deaths.
<I see.>
At the first sign of infection, I would transfer the ill fish to my
10-gallon hospital tank, and, since I don't have much faith in
antibiotic baths, treat with either Metronidazole mixed with food, or
Jungle Anti-bacterial Medicated Fish Food (Sodium sulfathiazole 2.3%,
Nitrofurazone 0.13%). (The fish were still eating well during the first
week or so after infection.) This treatment had no effect.
<It's worth mentioning that while antibiotics can help with some (mostly
opportunistic) infections, there are some primary infections, such as
Mycobacteria, that are essentially untreatable.>
I realize that most bacterial infections are a sign of poor water
quality, and this has me puzzled, because I am fussy about my fish. The
Threadfins were even spawning within days of getting sick.
<Interesting.>
Parameters are as follows:
-40 gallon tank
-Ammonia: 0
-Nitrite: 0
-Nitrate: 0 (heavily planted)
-pH: 8.0 - 8.2
-Temperature: 25 C
-Hardness (my KH/dH test kit is in the mail, but according to our City's
water quality report, the water is very hard).
-Remaining tank mates: 3 Black Mollies, 5 Dermogenys pusilla, 5 Cherry
Shrimp, 1 Threadfin Rainbow (the last one), 1 White Cloud (also the last
one), 1 Scarlet Badis.
-15% weekly water changes (I don't do the usual 25% because of the
Halfbeaks' sensitivity to water chemistry changes).
<Fair enough.>
Since I feel my water quality is good (although perhaps the pH is too
high for Threadfins and White Clouds?),
<Yes, your pH/hardness is a bit high, but in itself, this shouldn't be
killing them.>
I thought perhaps a parasite was responsible for making the fish
vulnerable to bacterial infections. I do on occasion see the fish flash,
although oddly, never the Threadfin Rainbows. There was never any sign
of Ich or Velvet. So I pulled out my old microscope, and took skin
scrapings and gill samples of three of the deceased Threadfin Rainbows.
Since I really had no clue what I was doing, the results of the first
two fish I examined were "inconclusive." However, by the third fish, I
felt I had enough practice to get an acceptable wet-mount and take a few
rudimentary photographs. I would really appreciate it if someone could
take a look at the attached photos and determine if there is anything
suspicious. I have placed arrows near things that look suspicious (to
me), but I have no experience with this and they could well be normal
microscopic detritus.
<Indeed. I am not a microbiologist. I've asked Bob to chime in here.
While "scinscraping1.jpg" and "scinscraping2.jpg" have circular cells in
them reminiscent of the Whitespot parasite Ichthyophthirius multifiliis,
I'm not enough of an expert to confirm that either way. I will make the
point here that both Whitespot and Velvet are dangerous precisely
because they break the skin and make the fish vulnerable to secondary
infections.><<Does appear to be Ichthyophthirius... RMF>>
Please note that my microscope is a very inexpensive unit, and probably
not very good, and I took the photos with my digital camera stuck up
against the eyepiece, so the quality of the micrographs is not great.
<They look great to me!><<To me as well. RMF>>
If you have any tips to pass along to improve my microscopy skills, that
would be great!
Thank you so much, and thanks to all the crew members who take the time
to help aquarists and their charges!
Carla
<I can't offer any easy diagnosis here. I'd do a couple of things myself
though. Firstly, I'd not buy either of these fish from that particular
retailer again. Or at the least, not from the current batches. Obviously
both White Clouds and Rainbowfish need to be kept in schools, but I'd
sooner leave them as singletons for now than risk mixing them with any
more possibly infected fish. I'm saying this because it's possible that
whatever is killing your fish came in with these newcomers. If you can
get some of these fish from a new batch a few months from now, or
immediately from another retailer, then that might be an option. Either
way, I'd buy one species at a time, and quarantine them for, let's say,
a month in the 10 gallon tank. I'd maintain that tank as per treating
Whitespot, i.e., heat (28 C/82 F for the White Clouds, and 30 C/86 F for
the Rainbows) plus a little salt, 2 to 3 level teaspoons of salt per
gallon. This won't stress the fish at all, but will help deal with any
Ick or Velvet parasites. After a month, it should be clear whether the
fish are healthy or not, in which case, you can move them to the display
tank. Hope this helps, Neale.>
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Re: FW
Parasites? (RMF, second opinion on the photos) 10/21/09
Neale and Bob,
thank you so much for your reply.
<Neale is "marked out for Weds." Will share>
I suppose that one cell does rather resemble Ichthyophthirius. That
would explain the flashing. Is there a strain of Ich that can cause a
low-level, long term (2+ months) infestation, and would the Ich be
hiding in the gills?
<Yes and possibly yes>
I've always assumed if Ich was left untreated, the fish would rapidly
become covered with parasites and die.
<Mmm, not so... can be resident as a low-infectious population...
Triggered to infection, hyperinfection by circumstances... weakening of
host/s>
Although I have read that fish previously exposed to Ich (which almost
all my fish were when I first acquired them), have some resistance to
it.
<This seems to be the case>
I plan to eradicate the Ich using the salt/heat method, then convert
this 40-gallon tank to low-end brackish for the Mollies, Halfbeaks, and
Cherry Shrimp. I can move the Scarlet Badis to my heavily-planted
10-gallon (which houses one male Betta splendens and one rogue baby
Molly who was banished here because she insisted on pick, pick, picking
at my Halfbeaks).
I'll then re-home the Threadfin Rainbow and White Cloud with other
aquarists who already have schools of these. Then, Neale, I'm going to
order your "Brackish Water Fishes" book and decide on a shoaling fish
and maybe a few little oddballs for my brackish tank!
<Is a worthy read>
I will follow your advice and quarantine for a month (I usually
quarantine for only two weeks) and treat as for Ich with heat/salt.
Thanks again!
Carla
<Welcome Carla. BobF>
Re: FW Parasites? 10/21/09
Neale and Bob, thank you so much for your reply.
<Neale is "marked out for Weds." Will share>
<<I'm back today, though!>>
I suppose that one cell does rather resemble Ichthyophthirius. That
would explain the flashing. Is there a strain of Ich that can cause a
low-level, long term (2+ months) infestation, and would the Ich be
hiding in the gills?
<Yes and possibly yes>
I've always assumed if Ich was left untreated, the fish would rapidly
become covered with parasites and die.
<Mmm, not so... can be resident as a low-infectious population...
Triggered to infection, hyperinfection by circumstances... weakening of
host/s>
<<I agree with Bob here. I simply don't believe the old story of Ick
"lying dormant" in the gravel for months or years, and then suddenly
attacking.
Much more likely that healthy fish have immune systems that keep chronic
infections at minimal levels that cause no harm, much like E. coli and
humans. It's only when something goes wrong in the tank, and the fish's
immune system collapses, that the formerly small Ick population
multiplies dramatically.>
Although I have read that fish previously exposed to Ich (which almost
all my fish were when I first acquired them), have some resistance to
it.
<This seems to be the case>
I plan to eradicate the Ich using the salt/heat method, then convert
this 40-gallon tank to low-end brackish for the Mollies, Halfbeaks, and
Cherry Shrimp.
<Should work grand. Only a very low salinity is required, 1.002 to
1.003, and you'll find virtually all plants will thrive under such
conditions.
It's such a low-cost, no-brainer approach for keeping Mollies I fail to
see why people resist keeping Mollies in such very slightly saline
conditions.>
I can move the Scarlet Badis to my heavily-planted 10-gallon (which
houses one male Betta splendens and one rogue baby Molly who was
banished here because she insisted on pick, pick, picking at my
Halfbeaks). I'll then re-home the Threadfin Rainbow and White Cloud with
other aquarists who already have schools of these. Then, Neale, I'm
going to order your "Brackish Water Fishes" book and decide on a
shoaling fish and maybe a few little oddballs for my brackish tank!
<Is a worthy read>
<<Kind of you to say so, Bob; Carla, hope you enjoy it.>>
I will follow your advice and quarantine for a month (I usually
quarantine for only two weeks) and treat as for Ich with heat/salt.
Thanks again!
Carla
<Welcome Carla. BobF>
<<Good luck, Neale.>>
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I really don't think it's ich
Hi, I'm writing about a problem with my Pleco. I bought a clown Pleco
recently and put it in my tank, and a few days later noticed a few white bumps
on his body. I don't think it's ich... I've had fish with that before, and ich
looks like sugar or salt sprinkled on the body, right?
<Usually, yes>
This looks more like he has warts. They're about the size of his eye or
larger. I read up to see if it was a fungus, but all the stuff on fungus
described it as "cottony"...and this isn't cottony, it's smooth. Yesterday it
spread to
our loaches... I don't know what it is, so I'm not sure how to treat it. On
that note, though, all I have in the tank are Cory cats, upside-down cats,
loaches and the one Pleco. So would I need a special medication, since they're
all scaleless?
<I would treat this as it has spread... and may well be parasitic in nature...
with a less toxic "ich" medicine (are good for most all external parasites) at
half dose, raising your water temperature to the mid 80's F., and possibly
adding a teaspoon of salt per five gallons of water (okay for Corydoras at this
concentration) over a period of three days>
It's a 55-gallon with an undergravel filter, if that helps...
Thanks for your help,
Sarah
<Does help. Do monitor your nitrogen cycle and have new water available in case
you need to change... Bob Fenner>
Discus with Hexamita? - 02/02/2004
Please help...I don't want to lose me discus fish. I have been treating with
rid-ich for 5 days now. The ich is almost gone, but the fish have developed
cloudy eyes, a whitish clear coating on their bodies and ragged fins.
<This sounds perhaps like "skin slime disease" - caused by protozoan parasites,
likely Hexamita, or possibly Ichthyobodo (Costia), Childonella, Trichodina....
All should respond favorably to Metronidazole administered in food.
Metronidazole can be found made by Aquatronics (Hex-a-Mit, green or blue box)
and by Seachem (simply Metronidazole).>
I have a 55 gallon aquarium. Temp is at 86 degrees. Nitrates, nitrites and
ammonia are ok. Ph is at 7. I've been doing a 20 - 25% water change daily, and I
added 8 tablespoons of aquarium salt to the water. Please let me know what else
I should do....
<A good start - and may in and of itself effect improvement or cure. I would
still treat with Metronidazole in food.>
Thank you sooooo much, Anna
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
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