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FAQs About Turtle Systems 2

Amphibious turtles need to be able to get out, dry completely.

Frozen painted turtle 11/29/08
Hi.
<Hiya Deb - Darrel here this morning>
We recently found a painted turtle (4 inch diameter) frozen in the ice of our pond. We chipped out a section of ice with the turtle and brought it inside to thaw. Incredibly, the turtle does appear to be alive but still in hibernation.
<Yes, he was hibernating to the point of stasis. The Emydid turtles, for the most part, do quite well in frozen creeks and ponds by shutting down to an almost imperceptible metabolism until the thaw comes. On the other hand, this is never something we intentionally do to our pets because not all do survive. In your case, I would have suggested to leave him alone and let nature take it's course, but I understand the desire to "jump in" (pun intended) and try to help. Now that he's out, we'll press onward>
We aren't sure what is best for his survival now ... keep him indoors and let him come out of hibernation or place him in a shallow goldfish pond that hasn't frozen over yet. The daytime temps are still in the mid 30's with overnight lows dropping to high 20's. What is his best chance of survival?
<Deb, at this point, I'd like you to bring him indoors, place him in a cardboard box or some other suitable container with high sides and then place him in the coolest part of your house. Not a porch or area exposed to the outside temps in the 20's, but not next to the heater either. I'd like him to experience temps in the 40's, 50's & 60's for a few days, if possible and then up to the comfortable indoors temps of your house. In other words, we want to warm him up FAIRLY quickly, but not so fast as to shock his system. If he warms up gradually over a few days or a week, you'll see occasional signs of activity (mostly looking around probably the way WE do when we first wake up in the morning) and then small movements until he has shaken the hibernation off and then begins to walk around.
Wait a week after he's fully active to place him in a shallow bowl of room-temperature water to soak and hydrate for a few minutes, and then another week before offering him some Repto-Min sticks or Koi pellets (same thing only less expensive) in the water.>
<At that point, might as well give him a name and create a more {semi}Permanent winter home for him and either keep him there as a pet, or plan to release him to the pond when the nighttime temp is consistently above 60 and the daytime has consistent sunlight and at least 75 degree days.>
Thanks you,
Deb
<Yer welcome, Deb!>

Yellow Bellied Slider, sys, fdg. 10/6/08
Hi Crew,
<Hiya Cherie, Darrel here this afternoon>
I have a young (5 months) yellow bellied slider that I house indoors, in a 15 gal. tank. Recently he has been acting very restless. He has always been an active little guy, he loves to climb anything as high as he can, and because of this I made him a long ladder/hill with a basking site on top, so that he can see out the window that his tank sits next too. I have been searching online for possible reasons for his sudden restless behavior (scratching at the tank, pacing back and forth), and have found that if turtles are not getting enough UV light, they sometimes try to go looking for it. I don't have a lot of money, (although I am willing to spend whatever I can to make sure my turtle is healthy), and when I was buying supplies for him I was told by the pet store owner that a plant light from home depot would provide the right amount of UV light, and is a lot cheaper than the expensive lights sold at places like Petco. So, I bought the plant light, and have been using it for 3 months, do turtles require more intense UV light as they are growing?
<Not higher intensity as they grow. Remember UV A & B comes naturally from the sun and (hopefully) the sun doesn't get more intense as they grow. What's important is that they need the right kind of UV and most Plant-Gro bulbs don't have the right spectrum. While I appreciate the Pet Store guy's logic .. and yes I'm going to say this -- It's better than NO UV light, it's not optimum for him and I urge you to save up if you have to and buy a more specific light for him. Normally I don't endorse products by brand in this column because there are many good products out there, Google is your friend, and I want people to do their research and learn. That said I'll tell you that back when I started, I used Vita-Lite by Duro Test because they were the only UV Bulb supplier that actually published their scientific research rather than just "trust me it's a reptile bulb." I did a quick search online and found an 18" Vita-lite fluorescent for around $15 that fit's in a $9 fixture from Home Depot or Lowes.>
I have been feeding him Gammarus (aquatic shrimp), along with water plants, and lettuce, and he has been eating more, but I assume that is because he is growing. I try feeding him when he is restless, but it only calms him down about 1/2 the time. I also tried giving him toys, but he doesn't show much interest in them. Is he sick, bored, or other? Does a plant light really supply enough UVB light?
<If he's eating and active ... swims and basks, we'll assume he's not sick. Please read the attached link and check your care against the article.>
<The next thing is diet. The pet store will have Repto-Min sticks. They're good but a bit expensive. HOWEVER ... on the same shelf at the bottom will be commercial Koi pellets that contain the exact same food for mush less money. Plants are good, lettuce & shrimp ... no. Actually ... NO! Switch him to the Koi pellets as the staple and a weekly or every other week treat of an night crawler earthworm (also available at the pet store.)>
Thanks so much for your help!
<Make these changes over the next month and then please write back, OK?>
Cherie

Florida Soft Shelled care, and turtle sys. period 8/30/08
Dear Crew
<Hiya Tina - Darrel here today>
I am going to do my best and keep this short...
<Let's see how you do>
A few weeks ago my boyfriend surprised me with two baby turtles from the reptile show that he had gone to, 1 Florida Soft Shelled
<Trionyx ferox!! one of my all time favorite turtles>
and a Spiny Soft Shelled
<Trionyx spinifer - virtually identical care & needs in every respect>
We are reptile people and have had many snakes and lizards over the years, some of which we bred, so the turtles are a new venture for us!
<Welcome to a bigger world, Tina. At the risk of hurting the feelings of my 4 iguanas, turtles and tortoises are my favorite reptiles. While not possessing the intelligence or personality of the iguanids, chelonians are fun, active, personable and generally fun to be around ... come to think of it .. that also describes my last girlfriend. Hmmmm>
They are in a tank together right now and seem to be getting along just fine.
<Soft shell turtles are not particularly social, Tina. In the wild, they tend to live singly like the snappers, mud & musk turtles as opposed to the Emydids (Sliders, cooters, etc). They can be housed together and usually will get along fine as long as there is enough room for them to get away from each other when they need to. Make sure you feed them separately as well. Try to entice them each to a different corner of the tank at feeding time so they don't even APPEAR to have to compete for food.>
The tank air is at about 80 to 85 degrees normally and the water ranges from 72 in the early morning (before the lights turn on) and 76 by time the lights turn off for the night. They have been eating a pellet food that he got from the breeder and occasional frozen brine shrimp (which the Florida loves!)
<Not bad. I use a high quality Koi Pellet for all my aquatic turtles and I "treat" them with an occasional earthworm (night crawlers which your local tropical fish store should carry) Brine shrimp are OK, but there is very little nutritional value and the uneaten shrimp foul your water ... which is an important consideration. Pellet food and one worm per week per turtle is more than enough. The worms will keep in the fridge for about a week and then you can dump the rest in your garden, which does wonders for the plants.>
I have a filter and I am attempting to grow vegetation in the tank presently.
<Item #1 and Item # VERY important, Tina. Our soft shells require MUCH higher water quality than almost any other kind of turtle. We're talking almost tropical fish-tank water quality. Crystal clear and charcoal filtered. Skin/shell infections are serious conditions for the Trionyx and VERY difficult to treat... so keep it clean>
<**********General Note to Turtle Keepers Everywhere********>
<Please, abandon ALL hope of having a mature biological filter system for your turtles the way you do for your fish tanks. Chelonian dietary needs, combined with a fairly primitive digestive system (aquatic turtles, at least) provide such a high output of .. um ... raw materials for the biofilter that it has virtually NO hope of catching up and keeping pace. Change the water regularly, siphon the bottom every time you change, add lots of activated charcoal to the filter and change it regularly.
<Thanks for listening>
I noticed today that the Florida has a white tint to his shell and I am growing concerned, Why would this happen and is it dangerous to him. I would like to know what to do to fix this problem now so that I can keep him for a long time to come. Please let me know if you have a clue as to what it may be. It doesn't appear to be filmy, just white-ish.
<Difficult to say Tina, for a number of reasons. First, fungal infections down IN the skin (as opposed to on the surface) will appear whitish yet not slimy. Second,. as T. ferox matures and loses that dark shell with the beautiful orange band, one of the first things that happens is that the shell starts to "fade" by looking slightly whitish. My suggestion for the moment is that you attend to the water quality issues and then make sure that the tank lighting provides UVA and UVB and then see that he (both of them actually) get plenty of natural sunlight. 15 to 20 minutes a day of direct sunlight. Now that doesn't mean COOK them of course. Put them in a box with side high enough that they can't climb and place that box where sunlight can hit the bottom directly and then cover half the top so that there is shade. Even if they choose the shade, the unfiltered light that reflects around the inside on the box is still "direct enough" to be beneficial.>
<Here are some tips on keeping the Trionyx family: they DO bask just like the rest of the water turtles and they NEED the UV light, same as the others. Being somewhat shy about it, they do it carefully and away from eyes (often in the weeds, reeds or tall grasses) in the wild. As they grow, they spend much of their time buried in the sand where they only need stick out their long snorkel-like neck to breathe. Now this is the part that people miss, when the water is shallow enough that they can be UNDER the sand and still stick their heads out of the water, a LOT of that hot Florida sunshine is reaching them.>
<This brings up another tip: In every instance where I keep soft shelled turtles, I have shallow water with small grained sand as least 3 times deeper than their shell so that they can engage in this natural behavior. Sometimes that can be as simple as a small clear plastic shoebox filled with sand and set inside a bigger "normal" aquarium atop some rocks so that it's 1 inch under the surface.>
Sincerely,
Tina
<Check the water quality issues, Tina. Provide the daily sunshine and write us back in 14 days -- Darrel>

UV Lighting for Reptiles: A new problem with high UVB output fluorescent compact lamps and tubes? 7/15/08
Hi Neale
Christine over this way. I just wanted to thank you for all you help answering all my questions. Also I just came across this on the internet and thought you may find it interesting. I think this is what is wrong with my turtles.
I think everyone needs to read this link and not use the UVB lights.
Thanks again Christine
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor-cases.htm
<Hello Christine. This is one of those situations where humans tend to be bad at judging risk. The same way we feel happy in cars (which have an abysmal safety record) yet nervous in aeroplanes (the safest way to travel). This report sites a few (twenty) cases of reptiles getting sick from one particular brand of UV-B lamp. Yet the numbers of captive reptiles in bad health because of lack of UV-B must run into the thousands if not millions because so many people are too cheap/too ignorant to buy these essential pieces of equipment. The laboratory work is beyond debate on this: without access to UV-B, reptiles cannot process Vitamin D correctly. See here:
http://www.anapsid.org/gehrman2.html
My worry with the article like the one you've drawn my attention to is that some people will read the article and decide NOT to use UV-B lights at all. Some of those folks out of genuine concern, others because they're cheap and can now rationalise away the need to buy a UV-B lamp. At most what that article is saying is that one specific brand of UV-B lamp, the ZooMed ReptiSun 10.0, has been correlated by some pet owners to observable health problems. However, as someone who teaches biology including statistical methods, let me make this completely clear: the authors of that web page have demonstrated no statistically significant effect at all. We do not know how many people also use ZooMed ReptiSun 10.0 and have perfectly healthy reptiles for example. If each sick reptiles are only one in a thousand healthy reptiles, then the effect is not significant. Moreover, simply because two things happen one after the other (the reptiles get sick after the new UV-B lights were installed) it does not mean the two things were actually connected ("post hoc ergo propter hoc"). These reptiles could be getting sick for other reasons, e.g., the fact the UV-B lamps used before the new ones were installed were weak, and so the reptiles had already started to develop a UV-B deficiency, but only later did the symptoms become visible. Or these pet owners could be using these high-power UV-B lamps in a way not recommended by the manufacturer, e.g., in a standard fitting that places them too close to the animal. In short, while an interesting and perhaps worrying article, reptile keepers should be fully aware that even if one particular brand of UV-B lamps may have faults or may be easier to use incorrectly, UV-B lamps remain essential parts of the kit and must be used. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: UV Lighting for Reptiles: A new problem with high UVB output fluorescent compact lamps and tubes? -07/18/08
Neale,
Thanks for your reply. I will absolutely continue to use the UVB light, as you said it is vital for my turtles to live as with all other reptiles. I just think that these companies that manufacture these lights should be more careful and let the consumer know the effects this could have on all reptiles if not used properly. People grow to love their reptiles and for something to happen to them is devastating. Without the knowledge and time of helpful people as yourself that we could rely on, some of us (especially me) would never know what to do to keep our reptiles safe and happy.
Thanks once again Christine
<Hello Christine. I think you've hit the nail on the head. Researching potential equipment purchases is just as important as finding about a pet animal before you buy it. Some brands and models may well be better than others, and discussing purchases on the various pet-keeping forums is always worthwhile. As you express clearly, owners can develop a real bond with reptile and amphibian pets, even if it isn't always clear that those animals take much interest in us! My main worry in the reptile-keeping side of the hobby is that so many people, especially children, buy these animals without doing any kind of research at all because they are "cool". Only later do they realise that in many ways reptiles are very demanding and expensive animals to keep. Cheers, Neale.>

Box Turtle Spills Water 7/6/08
Hi Crew,
<Hiya Jay -- Darrel here>
My female box turtle lives alone in a 24 gallon Rubbermaid container with cypress mulch substrate. She is always burrowing under her plastic water dish and spilling the water, so I am always bailing out the spilled water and refilling the dish.
<Welcome to the world of turtles. For some reason they seem to know what causes the most mess for us and they head straight for it>
She has a nice hide box at the other end of the container, but she prefers to hide under the water dish. If I attached the dish to the container, the dish would be hard to clean; if I gave the turtle a very heavy dish, she might get trapped or crushed underneath.
<First, no dish you put in is going to crush her. If she's strong enough to push her way under it then she's ten times strong enough to withstand it's pressure>
Do you have any suggestions to discourage this water spilling?
<Why .. as it turns out ... I do! Chalk it up to 20 years of breeding turtles and a Box turtle named Clara being the first to lay eggs for me.>
<First, I'd like to say that I'd like to see her in a bigger container if possible. That said, here's how you solve the problem: Use a rectangular water dish, such as a smaller Rubbermaid tray or a shallow shoe-box sort of thing. Next, take two small wooden dowels from the local hardware or building supply store and attach one to either end of the tray so it points upwards (so if you pick up the ends of the rods, the tray is suspended below like a basket. (wire ties will work for this) Now set the tray in the end of the big container and clamp the sticks to the rim of the big container -- so the two sticks, clamped to the side, would prevent the tray from being lifted or pushed. When you need to clean, just unclamp the sticks and lift!>
I appreciate your helpful advice.
<Jay --- it was very brave of you to call my advice 'helpful' before you even got it -- thanks!>
Jay Smith

Pond for turtle... 7/6/08
hi,
<Hiya Juanita -- Darrel here>
I'm planning to build a pond in my new home (when the house is done so it will be in a couple of months). I've had a little turtle that's about the size of my hand (not counting fingers) and the guy that sold it to me said that it would get as big as a plate. At the moment she's in a very very little aquarium and she doesn't fit in it anymore (she does fit in it but can't move a lot). So I've been looking around to see how this pond thing works because I really don't know much about ponds. I've got lots of questions.
1.) How big does the pond have to be?
<It doesn't have to be all that big -- the trade-off is that that larger the body of water, the less it resists change (heating in summer, cooling in winter) and the larger the pond, the less likely one turtle will foul the water -- but then the filter needs to be bigger and when it does need service the job is that much larger. I've seen a single slider housed happily in a 67 gallon preformed plaster pond.>
2.) Should I buy a pond or build one?
<Too many variables for here -- building a pond gives you many more options but costs more and takes longer. Buying a preformed pond lets you dig a hole and have a pond all in the same day>
3.) Do I put a fence around the pond so the turtle doesn't escape? (the back yard is going to be fenced)
<YES! Turtles are remarkably good climbers. The fence should be twice as tall as his shell is long, PLUS another 5 inches bent INWARDS (like a flat lip) on the top.>
4.)Should I put fish in with the turtle?
<Not for the turtle's benefit, no. Many of us have put in 'feeder goldfish' at some point, only to have them grow to be almost the size of small Koi and become pets themselves. The truth is that turtles are more opportunistic and scavenger eaters and rarely catch a healthy fish>
5.)Do I need a water fall? If yes how do I set one up?
<Not unless you like the look and the sound, but they are pretty and they do help aerate the water. Give it some thought -- doesn't have to be complicated, either -- if you BUILD a pond, you can find many books at the local building supply store giving you all of the in's & out's and if you decide to BUY a pond, most of those same stores sell the kind where you can buy a small pond and have it drain into a bigger one -- presto! instant waterfall>
6.)Do I need to put sand or rocks around the pond so the turtle can go out of the water or can I put things in the water that stick out?
<Yes, this is important. Turtles are more comfortable climbing out of the water on a rock or a log than they are climbing to shore. If you BUILD a pond, put in a couple of shallow-sided bays for him to crawl out. Preformed ponds are designed for water gardens and Koi and usually have steep sides, but they make them with a shallow shelf-tray on one side to hold plants -- you can place stones and large rocks there in "ramps" so that he can climb out & bask on the rock or easily make it to shore>
7.)How do you put a filter in?
8.)How do I choose a filter?
<Again, more many variables than we can discuss here. External filters are a better bet for long term use because they require less care, but in pond filters are less expensive and easier to clean -- the major building supply chains that sell the preformed ponds sell a range of low end pumps and filters that should be just fine for a turtle or two in a pond>
9.)What kind of plants do I need?
<none, really. Turtles just tear them up>
10.)Can I keep the turtle out year round? (I live in Florida so the cold weather is not a big deal)
<You can from a temperature standpoint. In fact, winter isn't usually the problem -- it's summer. Remember when I said the larger the pond, the more resistant it is? Well beside the fact that a larger pond stays clearer longer, a larger pond stays cooler longer in summer and warmer in winter. For example, a 20 gallon pond in the Florida sun would get so hot so quickly that the turtle would suffer from over heating if not in fact dying from it. Same turtle in a 1,000 pond wouldn't even sense a temperature change. Assuming you will go bigger than 10 and not 1,000 an important criteria is placing your pond where it will get a good deal of shade in the hottest months.>
11.)Is the turtle going to get lonely? Should I buy another one?
<You can, they seem to get along just fine, but there is no "need" to do that.
12.) How deep does the pond have to be?
<Again, deep water stays cooler in summer and warmer in winter --- at least 18 inches at it's deepest point>
13.)What kind of plants can I put in or around the pond?
<on the OUTSIDE of the fence, around the perimeter, would be a great place to plant some shrubs that would shade the afternoon sun (to the west side of the pond) but nothing INSIDE the fence or he'll use it to climb out.>
14.)Should I change the turtles feeding habits? Right now she’s feeding on "REPTILE PREMIUM STICKS" and once in a while romaine lettuce or can she feed on plants in the pond.
<Repto-Min is great stuff. Koi Pellets from your local fish/pond store is the SAME THING only a lot cheaper. Either one is fine & no, don't change. I raise hatchlings to breeders on that same food.>
15.)Are there any predators for her, like raccoons, snakes, or squirrels? If yes what can I do to keep them out?
<Ah yes, a major down side to all outdoor life. They are all out there and they will all try for her if they can. The only SURE way is to make a fence with a tight fitting top and again this is a trade off -- easy to do for a small pond, not possible for a large one. Beyond that .. wide, deep water allows the turtle to rest on the bottom at night, more or less out of sight and reach of the common predators.>
16.)In what season or climate should I build the pond?
<In Florida? Any time it's not too hot for you to be out there!>
<Good luck to you>
<Darrel>

Bad trees for pond/turtles – 06/26/08
Hi, my name is Russell. I have asked several questions on this site and I have always gotten a very good response. But i have another question about my water turtles. I am wanting to put a tree across the turtles pond for them to bask on and hide in. My question is is there any types of trees that could possibly poison or harm my turtles? By the way I have three red eared sliders and one southern painted turtle. Also the tree that I was wanting to put in the pond is a walnut tree from my backyard. Thanks for your response in advance.
<Yep... read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/landpltspd.htm
Same list as per fishes. Bob Fenner>

Turtle Dock - 02/09/2007
I am making a turtle dock out of PVC and plexi-glass. What glues do your recommend? Would PVC cement ( Oatey's brand) be ok?
<I would use this between the PVC pipe itself and some Silastic ("Silicone") to adhere the Plexi to the top>
Also, what is the difference between silicone adhesive and silicone sealant?
<These are identical>
I have heard many different things, and I do not want to kill the turtles.
Thanks for your help,
Katherine
<Just look for, buy one that states it is 100% Silicone... no additives (some have mildewcides for tub, window applications). Bob Fenner>

Putting my turtles to hibernation 11/19/07
Hi
<Hiya! Darrel here>
I have a Three Toed Box Turtle (about 6 or 7 inches long) that I have had for 6 or 7 months. I keep him in a large outdoor 5x8 cage built out of cinder blocks 2 high and lined with bricks sunk in the ground inside to keep him from digging out. There is a small shallow pond in it and I also have a chain link cover over the top. Our dirt is mostly clay so I mixed up a patch of it with lots of sand for him to dig in but he never digs.
<Box turtles seldom dig actual holes. They're more likely to just find a natural depression at the base of some plant and hunker down for the evening or the season that way.>
It is starting to get colder so I figure he should go into hibernation soon. The thing is he doesn't dig so I don't know if he will just go sit somewhere and hibernate. That would be bad for him right?
<"Bad" is a relative term, Amanda. Winter causes their systems to shut down to a minimum for the season, but you have to remember that in nature, not all of our animal friends survive each winter. When possible or practical, I arrange for my animals to be spared the entire process>
I also considered putting a box stuffed with hay for him to dig into in his cage so he wouldn't have to go underground.
<Two course of action here. You could find a bigger box of cardboard or wood, put some straw or hay in the bottom and bring him inside, maybe to your room, and spare him the whole hibernation process. Two, you could get a smaller box, fill it with straw as you suggest and place him in a safe place on your porch or in your garage and let him shut down for the season. You don't say where you live, so I'm not sure just how cold or dangerous your winters are. More on this in a moment>
Should I stop feeding him yet so his food won't rot in his stomach?
<As fall approaches their appetites should start to shrink and yes, you should slowly reduce their feedings, both in amount and frequency>
I also have a Map Turtle (about 4 or 5 inches long) I keep in an outdoor aquarium. Last year I just put him in a smaller container and put him in our glassed in porch (its unheated) and he hibernated on the bottom of the tank. Is this an okay way for him to hibernate this year?
<A lot of the same advice applies, Amanda. For my inside animals and individual specimens, I bring them inside the house or porch and add a little heat and avoid hibernation, but for my outdoor ponds I have no choice but to let nature take it's course. The worry is that the pond is deep enough and the body of water large enough to maintain some temperature balance (cold or hot) and here's the reason: Most of our reptile and fish friends from temperate climates can hibernate over winter without problem, but what I call "almost winter" can be lethal to them. "Almost Winter" is where it is clearly winter and their metabolisms shut down according to plan, but it's not cold ENOUGH to shut down all the way .... or it has too many warm periods where they reheat and become semi-active only to be hit by another cold snap .. these transitions can be lethal to them.>
<Here's an example: Yes, you could put your Map turtle in a large enough tank and allow him to over-winter, or you could keep the water warm to around 65-70 and a basking area warm to 88-90 and avoid winter altogether. BUT .... if you were to let the water become 50 or 55 and still have the basking area active, his only choices would be TOO HOT (for winter) and TOO COLD (for summer). Personally, I'd rather see the Map Turtle in a tank on top of the dresser in your room all year 'round than outside.>
I would appreciate any reply to this.
Thanks. -Amanda
<You're welcome & best of luck to you!>

Re: Putting my turtles to hibernation 11/24/07
Thanks for all of the tips but I have a few questions about what you said. I live in Southern Louisiana and the weather has been going under 35 for a few days and back up to 85 for awhile from what you told me this is dangerous for them.
<Well, see .. this is where more information is better. Southern Louisiana doesn't really have "winter" in the conventional sense. Your turtles won't really "hibernate" in the traditional sense but rather slow way, way down to a state we call "torpid".>
Should I just take them in the garage where the change is less severe until the weather levels out?
<In the climate you have as I now understand it, they'll both be fine outside during the winter PROVIDED that
(A) - They are healthy, active and properly fed until this winter started,
(B) - you stop feeding them until the weather warms permanently and
(C) - the winter is more or less "normal" and starts warming again in late March or April>
I would bring them both inside for the winter (the Map Turtle all the time) but my parents have a no pets in the house policy.
<I have two sons. Reptiles and fish are welcome in my house ... it's a no KIDS inside policy I'd like to have!>
How big would a box for the box turtle have to be for him to live comfortably if I were to take him inside?
<For "over wintering" not very big at all. Twice his length would be fine, but in Southern Louisiana I wouldn't worry about it.>
I don't have a basking lamp for my map turtle but I have his tank where the sun hits it in the morning and afternoon sort of a natural lamp does he need a real lamp?
<Make sure the sun isn't filtered through the glass. Standard aquarium glass and even window glass filter out a great deal of the healthy UV waves and can over heat them as well. If you do that, you should be fine. Make sure that all animals that get direct sunlight can also get OUT of that sunlight when they choose.>
Thanks again for a reply.
Amanda

Turtle Tank Molded Background 11/19/07
Hi Crew
<Hiya Alex>
Do you guys know of where one can purchase one of the molded backgrounds for a turtle tank? I've seen them before where they look like a rock wall, and sometimes I'll see where someone has worked a waterfall into the mold, etc. I'm not sure what they're made of, but I know there is a place in the UK that sells them. Just wondering if there is anywhere stateside that offers them for a 55 gal. tank?
<Nothing comes to mind, Alex, beyond the Google searching that you're already doing -- but here's an idea you might consider: Make one yourself! It doesn't have to be a molded plastic to be effective. Start with a piece of cardboard painted to a background color and then attach anything that interests you in various places. It has the advantage of being very cheap and easily changed.
Currently, my son has one behind is 55 gallon marine aquarium that has fake plastic plants and hidden around them is a crushed coke can, three pop-tops (that's an old age memory), an obviously crashed Hot wheels car and an empty can of Star-Kist Tuna (that last one may be a cry for help!) and he changes them on a regular basis. Just a thought>
<Regards - Darrel>

Turtle care question (RES): basking problem 10/23/07
I have two turtles living in a 55 gal. tank. I have a problem with the basking space though. I've gotten the floating dock/platforms (like R-Zilla or Zoo-Med) and I've also tried cork. The problem is that one of the turtles bites the platform, so I end up with bitten pieces messing the tank as well as clogging the filters, and platforms getting smaller and smaller for turtles that keep getting bigger and bigger =D
Both turtles are in good health and well fed. I've had them for a couple of years and they are about 5" now (when I got the first one is was smaller than 1"), but I just 'adopted' the one that chews the platforms a few months ago. What can be causing this behavior? Any other ideas on materials or designs I can use to create a new basking area? Thanks in advance.
Yenelli
<Greetings. To be honest, the floating cork idea sounds a bit of a non-runner. Possibly viable for delicate things like frogs, but inadequate for turtles. So I'd get rid of that. Floating platforms really aren't going to work for adult turtles. Fine for fingerlings, but an adult Red Ear Slider is the size of a dinner plate with a weight to match, and that's simply not going to balance on any floating object much smaller than the Queen Mary! Instead, you need to create a rigid platform above the waterline. There are lots of ways to create a safe and stable basking area like this. The classic approach is to create a rock or sand bank at one end of the tank. This might involved safely securing some rocks in a heap, and then filling the gaps with sand or gravel to stop things from rolling down accidentally. Using silicone sealant is always a good idea when creating such structures. Three or four squarish boulders with a big slate on top can also make a nice table-like structure. Sliders really aren't that fussy. The most important thing is that whatever you make is [a] stable and [b] easy to clean. Cheers, Neale.>

UV Eh? UV Bee? - 10/07/2007
Hey,
<Hiya - Darrel here>
Do you know any brand or place I can buy a UVB bulb that is 50-75 watt? Also, what is the average price for a UVB bulb. Thanks for your help.
<Hmmm. We're not, generally, in the business of being personal shoppers, Chris. It's not that we don't want to help, but our job is to get information out there so that you can more intelligently decide BETWEEN all the vendors and suppliers out there.>
<I split my shopping between on-line sources and traditional "brick and mortar" local stores. My reasoning is that if you and I and everyone else buy ALL of our expensive goods and services from online sources, then the local retail Pet/Fish/Reptile store that we really NEED for a Sunday afternoon emergency won't be there anymore. In a way, the profit that they make from the sales of filters, heaters and lamps is part of how they can "afford" to have the livestock available too. Now, with that having been said, UV lights are something that I've always purchased On-line. It's an area where I feel that usually the store's selection is too small and I see too many "new and revolutionary" brands of lights --but no literature or documentation of any sort to back up their claims. For years I exclusively used Vita-Lite fluorescent bulbs from DuroTest (because I could access real, scientific literature on their bulbs) and had nothing but good results. Lately I've been using Repti-Sun Compact Fluorescent from my friends over at Zoo Med and have no complaints.>
<The thing to keep in mind is that UV rays do not travel very far before they diffuse and lose potential and for this reason they need to be quite close to the animals for them to benefit. This is why I've always used linear fluorescent (long tubes) -- I can get the entire bulb within inches of the turtles without worrying about burning them.>
By the way, your website is really good and I learned a lot from reading your replies.
<Thank you so much>
Thanks once again.
<No charge!>

A TwoFer! Turtle sys/UV light and RES fdg. – 10/04/07
<What we have here is a TWO-FER! One question comes in and even before we can answer, another follows the first one>
Hey guys,
<Hiya John - Darrel here>
I was just wondering, in the wild how do turtles and other reptiles get UVB and uv rays on a cloudy day. Does UVB and uv rays still pass through the clouds. If so, is it okay to leave my red eared slider outside on a cloudy day. Thanks for all your help.
<There is some UV on cloudy days, but the simple answer is that some days they don't get some. It's no big deal. We stress the importance of UV for two reasons 1) They need it for LONG TERM health and 2) We encourage all pet keepers to be habitual about things -- in other words we want you to put your lights on timers and UB bulbs above your tanks, etc. rather than relying on you to remember (or forget) to take the turtle out for some sun. With that said ... if your UV bulb burns out and it will take a week to get another one, don't break into a cold sweat about it -- as long as they've had some recently and will have it back in a week, or so .. they'll be just fine without it for a while.>
*
<Part Two!>
Hey guys,
<Hiya again!>
I was just wondering, do baby red eared slider, under about 2 inch, need a varied diet or can I just feed them commercial stix, just until they get bigger though.
<I feed mine Koi pellets from birth to breeding age. If the Sticks you mention are Repto-min brand, they're the same thing - just in stick form and a lot more expensive. They're a fine basic diet for their whole lives, John (see below)>
Thanks for all your help I really appreciate it.
By the way, your website is great, I learned a lot about my pets and how to take care of them. You guys are doing a great job!
<That's always nice to hear! We all try really hard. Well .. all except ONE of us (he knows who he is!)>
<http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm>

Yellow bellied scum does not HAVE to be fightin' words! Turtle... sys. 9/13/07
Hi,
<Hi Lois! -- There's a joke there for those of us that are very old>
My daughters each have a yellow bellied slider, about 2 years old. They seem to be doing fine. Last summer we got a baby pool and started putting them out there filled with well water (sulfa water). They seem to enjoy being together and more swimming room. Recently I noticed their shells have green on them. I scrubbed them with tooth brushes to get it off but it doesn’t seem to get it all. Their tanks are kept clean and there are no green algae in them. How do I get the green off of their shells and will it hurt them?
<It's algae. While the turtle shell looks smooth to you and I .. it has lots of micro pores that certain filament-algae can really sink their roots into. It's not harmful too them at all, Lois and the solution, beyond simply keeping the tank clean and the water cool -- is to increase their basking time. The more they can haul out & dry off in the warm UV rays ... the more that pesky stuff will just fade away. But if it stays, it's merely a nuisance.>
Thank you
<You're welcome -- Darrel>
< http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm>

Red worm looking things in turtle/fish tank 9/12/07
Hello Crew,
<Hiya Lauren -- Darrel here at my desk in Honolulu today>
I was wondering what these things are. I found them in my filter when I went to clean it out. They are inside, and I feed them Krill. Could it be baby krill??? I fed them some shrimp a couple times but other than that it's been regular turtle food.
<Krill & shrimp require a very different environment to hatch, so no it's not that.>
If you want me to send you a picture of them I will. I have 2 Red Eared Sliders, and 2 Eastern Painted Turtles.
<What you have are one of a whole family or worms and/or Planaria and they are exactly what you see -- little worms. They're parasites and can get into a closed tank system in many ways. Your solution is to break down the tank and then clean and sterilize everything -- pay close attention to the filter and the filter lines & hoses. And you may have to do this several times, since the turtles have undoubtedly ingested some of them (or the food they road in on). In other words, worm eggs are probably in the pipeline (so to speak).>
<the good news is that they're just a maintenance hassle and not really dangerous to your animals>
I just recently added a goldfish, but these wormy looking things were there before I got the goldfish.
<fish are common transmitters of parasites too (Not that Goldie is our source) but speaking of sources, she might be a source of dinner for your turtles. There are a number of reasons not to feed them goldfish -- not the least of which is that the turtles are not very good at that kind of hunting and the goldfish can live & thrive until one day you have these HUGE goldfish that were supposed to be dinner and now have names and they're too big for the turtle pond so you put them in your Koi pond only to find that they're so pushy that they're bossing around and terrorizing your 10 pound Koi!>
<well OK, just because that happened to ME doesn't mean it will happen to you ... but ya never know...>
Thanks,
Lauren

Re: Red worm looking things in turtle/fish tank – 09/13/07
Haha wow thanks so much! I've cleaned it out already and I'll keep an eye out. If I have anymore questions I'll be sure and ask on here, if I can't find an answer from google.
<By "find an answer from Google" we certainly hope you mean the Google Search Bar at the bottom of our WetWebMedia Page after having checked the "WetWebMedia" box, correct? Not Google "in general", right? The web "in general" is a great place to buy a pair of socks or find out who thinks that aliens from the planet Zordo have landed, but when it comes to things wet & living, please start here! Not only do we know what we're doing, but the site gets better with every question asked and answered!>
Take Care,
Lauren
<Darrel>

Map Turtle Queries 8/30/07
Hi,
<Hiya right back! -- Darrel here>
I'm just curious if I am caring for my Mississippi Map Turtle, as best I can? I got him in March and researched thoroughly beforehand and afterwards but still some things I'm unsure about.
<Wow! Just researching before you obtain makes you special, Melissa! Congrats>
He currently has a large 3ft x 2ft x 2ft tank (I don't know how many gallons of water it holds, but takes ages to clean!), even though he's only approx 4.5 inches long from tail to head. We have just upgraded his tank as he's grown from 1 inch to 4.5 inches in just 6 months!! (..is that right for a Map Turtle?)
<That's fast .... way too fast. Map Turtles are actually one of the more slow-growing turtles>
The tank is set up with gravel lining the bottom, sloping up to where the basking rock is placed, with UV lighting which is lit for about 8 hours a day. The water is heated to approx 90F and to the touch is always lukewarm. The water is also filtered and pumped around the tank, which is filled with water to the depth of about 8 inches.
<everything you have there is PERFECT ..... except the water. Turn the heater OFF. Any room temperature YOU can stand is good for him. The point is to offer cool water and a warm rock and let him choose between the two. With the water at 90 degrees you have his metabolism in over-drive and that's why he's growing so fast.>
My main concern is with his diet, I feed him in the morning and some extra food sticks through the day if he's searching the gravel. I give him about 10 food sticks each morning and if they haven't all been munched by about 15 minutes, I clear any that are left. I do give him washed, small pieces of lettuce and cucumber (without the skin) but I'm not sure if these are okay? Therefore I only feed him this once a week (although he seems to like it!) Would you suggest he needs more/less green veg?
<They are omnivorous, Melissa and eat almost whatever is offered. The food sticks are just fine -- as I wrote in an article (I'm sending you the link) I've raised sliders, maps and cooters from hatchlings to breeders on nothing but Koi food. Just like your food sticks, it's nutritious, plenty of vegetable matter and just a fine food.>
I am quite squeamish, and couldn't chop up live earthworms, or watch him eat a goldfish, so will he be okay just with food sticks and some veggies occasionally? Or are there less 'messy' live foods I could give him that are suitable for a Map Turtle?
<Goldfish aren't all that good a food for them anyway. And they don't taste very good, either. Er..... ah .... um .... so I hear. If you feed him an earthworm every so often, don't chop it -- just put it in there and walk away.>
He is a lovely turtle and I want to make sure I'm doing the best I can to take care of him, He is healthy and does the usual "begging" every morning, splashing water loads at about 6am!! He's definitely got us well trained! Even though he can make a racket and takes time to clean, I love him to bits! Any help or advice would be great to help my turtle, "Squirt", live the best life possible! (Sorry for the massive email!)
<Melissa -- you're doing GREAT except for the heat thing, which I'm sure you'll correct. Down below is a general outline on the water turtles (sliders, etc.) and the main addition with regard to Map turtles -- is water quality. They are far more susceptible to disease and debilitation from substandard water than most of the rest of them, so keep cleaning that tank and tending to that filter.>
Many Thanks
<You are most welcome!>
Melissa Tostevin (UK)
<Darrel Barton (Torrance, California, USA)>
<By the way, Melissa, I used my Word Editor to add a LOT of apostrophes to your letter. Is there a shortage of them in the Old Empire?>

Yellow bellied turtle, UK... Sys. – 07/26/07
Hi
<Hi right back! -- Darrel here>
We have 2 yellow bellied turtles and they have started to get white patches on the top of their shell. The water temp is 27 degrees and the basking light temp when on is 30 degrees.
<Well, it's a good thing that your email address tells us that you're across the pond (as we say) in Britain, otherwise you'd be having frozen turtles.>
<Come to think of it, Across THE POND is a pretty good pun for a fish & water web site, huh?>
<For us yanks, as they call us, who don't read Celsius, their water temp is 80.6 and their air/basking temp is 86 degrees>
We also have 2 fluorescent strip lights which we keep on all the time, we feed them in a different tank to
keep the water clean in the main tank, we have a floating basking area we have a Fluval 2 plus water filter in the tank, we feed them on dry shrimp and occasionally blood worms and live worms as a treat. Could you tell me why and how they are getting these white patches and what we can do to prevent this happening?
<For one thing, you're certainly making a good effort! Feeding in a separate tank is a neat way, but very laborious one .. so congratulations on your efforts. The white patches sound like fungus and my guess would be that with the water being HOT (should be around 73f) and the air being COOL (should be around 92f) you've accidentally set up a perfect growing environment for shell fungus. Not to worry, easy to fix!
Search this web site (see the search bar below on the main page and put in "Darrel" and "fungus") and you can see what I've written before.
www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/turtlefdgfaqs.htm
www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/turtshelrotfaq2.htm
www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/rescompfaqs.htm
There are just three -- and there's more. In fact, I'm now a bit depressed that I talk about fungus as much as I apparently do.>
Could you also tell me anything else we can do to keep them happy, and how long should we keep the basking light on for and how long can we keep the UVA and UVB fluorescent strip lights on for?
<Sounds like you're doing very well. I'd have both lights on for around 12 hours a day, but turtles are VERY forgiving about that: If the light sources are shorter, they'll just bask more during the "on" hours. The only thing I'd do is increase the temperature difference between water and land.>
They both feed ok and swim about without any probs.
<Here's a link with all MY basics:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm
Other than THAT .... I think you're doing GREAT!>
thanks tink
<Hmm, yesterday I was called Putzakitty .. and today Tink. Hmmmmm>

Heated Turtles 6/29/07
Hello
<Hello back to you>
I just recently bought two baby turtles and provided them with everything. I have an aquarium heater which keeps the water temp to ~78 Fahrenheit. The basking area is set to 85-90 F. The problem is that my turtles don't seem to bask a lot anymore. They spend a lot of the time in the water swimming, even sleeping in the water. I just wanted to know if this was healthy. They are both eating regularly and seem healthy. If there's something wrong with them, can you provide some suggestions as to what I can do to make it better.
<Yes, I can. The water temperature is too warm and this dampens their desire to bask. Unfortunately, without drying off it subjects them to opportunistic fungal and bacterial infections that take root in the constantly wet skin. The water temperature should be no warmer than 73 degrees. In fact, if you have the turtles indoors you should probably take the heater out altogether. Unless their water temperature drops below 60 degrees, they can regulate their heat just by swimming or basking -- and the risk of them getting burned on the heater is greater than the value of heating the water. SO .... just unplug the heater and see how they respond over the next 7 days>
Thanks
<Yer Welcome, Darrel>

Silicone seal? Turtle sys. 5/29/07
Hi. I have a turtle and I keep her in a clear plastic storage container. In the summer she has the identical set-up outside. This year I found a crack in the bottom. I fixed it with General Electric silicone 1 will this harm the turtle or should I just buy a new one or can you tell me what I should repair it with
<Silicone sealant is generally safe to use in aquaria and vivaria. If in doubt, check with manufacturer. Be sure and allow it to cure fully before putting it to use (usually takes 24 hours or so) and then test with water to see if there are any leaks. All this said, be sure and provide large enough quarters for your pet. Turtles need space as they grow, and it may well be that this year a larger vivarium is on the cards.>
Thanks Sheri.
<Cheers, Neale>

Pig Nosed River Turtle Questions, sys. 4/16/07
Hello guys, I hope you can bear with me and try to answer my questions, I am really sorry I have so many questions and taking up your precious time. Really appreciate your help and time and efforts! Thank you in advance!
My pig nose turtle has been really restless for the past month, swimming from one end to the other in the tank and flapping water furiously but stopped once I go over or pat it on its head. Last time it (I am still not sure of its gender, I know a long tail and long nails at front flippers should indicate a ‘he’ but I am not sure how long exactly is considered long enough.) used to calm down after I fed it but food doesn’t work anymore so I really don’t know what my turtle is asking for now. I have seen similar questions posted in the forum but the replies did not directly explain this behaviour. I have varied the diet but it didn’t help. I have kept the turtle for years and this hasn’t happened before. There’s no hiding place for my turtle and I will try to get one because it’s difficult to find a cave-like structure big and light enough for the glass tank. My turtle is about 22cm from head to tail and 17cm in width.. Do you know how old it is?.
< They grow very slowly and no literature is available on the growth rate of this turtle.>
When I bought it, I believed it was just a hatchling, no bigger than about 10cm from head to tail.
And is it also 80F for the water temperature for Pignose turtle?
< That sounds like it is in the range for this species.>
Can you tell me how many Celsius degree is 80F?
<Around 27 C.>
Should the basking area be higher in temperature?
< Generally the basking areas are always higher so the animal can increase its body temp to fight disease and to aid in digestion.>
And aside from the basking light, do I also need another lamp for the tank?
< You need heat and another lamp to provide the proper lighting spectrum for vitamin development.>
Are these two kinds of lamps different?
< Usually yes although some lamps can provide both heat and some UV radiation.>
And should I keep the lights on during the day and off at night?
< Yes.>
I also don’t have a basking area for it, because the water level of the tank is about three quarter full and I have no idea how to build a basking area so high above the water. If I keep the water level lower, will it deprive my turtle in terms of swimming space?
< Yes try and build a shelf on which the turtle can get out on. ZooMed makes a Turtle Dock for just such a situation but it is not big enough for a turtle like yours.>
If I put it out in a tub for basking, is half an hour enough?
< Only the turtle itself knows how long it needs to bask.>
It doesn’t really get a lot of direct sunlight because I stay in a flat and have no garden or porches or anything in kind.
Do I need to add a bit of water in the tub?
< This is a very aquatic turtle that in the wild would spend hours swimming around in a big river. If you are going to confine it to a tube then I would still and try to provide as much swimming are as possible.>
So sorry I have so many questions. I hope you can answer to them all. So sorry to take up so much of your time and efforts, really appreciate any help given!.. Thank you soo soo much!
Lost and frantic owner, Jaz Singapore
< This is a very rare turtle and I believe on some CITES lists too. Very scarce and very expensive in the U.S. The cool thing about these turtles is they look and act like ocean sea turtles but are found in fresh water instead. They get pretty big for a pet turtle. The shell can get up to almost 20 inches and they can weigh up to 35 lbs. There is very little known about these turtles and literature is scarce. Since they get soo big and are very aquatic I would try and give them as much swimming space as possible. They may come out to bask occasionally but I don't think they will use a basking spot very often. Some people in the US that are fortunate enough to have this turtle have told me that they are totally aquatic and don't require a basking spot. But I would still provide UVB and UVA over the basking site to cover my bases. The basking site should still be around 85 to 90 F. The water temp should be around 80 F. The diet may need to be modified for minerals that it may not be getting. Try adding a few vitamins to the food to see if that helps settle him down.-Chuck>

Basking Light For Turtle - 4/8/07
Hi, I have a 1 and a half inch long yellow bellied slider. We have a 60 watt basking spot lamp. I don't know if it's UVA or UVB. Anyway, how long do I keep it on? How does he sleep if it's on all night? Please get back to me ASAP. Thank-you, Emily
< You should have a lamp for heat. It should heat the basking site up to at least 85 F. The other lamp should provide both UVB and UVA. Check the writing on the lamp and look it up on the internet to see what you got. They should both be on during normal daylight hours, about 10-12 hours every day.-Chuck>

Worms In A Turtle Tank. Was: Changing Water In A Turtle Tank, The Easy Way 2/23/07
Thank you! I love the No Spill Clean 'N Fill I did my first full water change in her new (used) 55 gal tank (I was wondering how I could possibly do it regularly) it was great. And I've been feeding Stephanie in a separate container to keep her tank clear - but now I've found some very tiny thin white worms in her tank. I've noticed these before when there was sediment at the bottom of her tank - I thought it was from uneaten food. Since I haven't put any food in her tank I assume it's from a bowel movement. I had a sample tested and was told she doesn't have any parasites. Have you seen this before?
Any ideas? Helen
< These could be worms from the sand or plants. They will not hurt your turtle. If they are a bother then treat the tank with Fluke-Tabs. I am glad the water change system is working.-Chuck>

Changing Water In A Turtle Tank, The Easy Way - 02/11/2007
Thanks for your help in the past, I have a new issue I need to discuss. I'm getting sick and tired of all my turtle maintenance and frankly I haven't read any solid pointers on handling all of the water for changes etc. If I empty half of my tank every week (55 gal. approx. 2/3 full) that's about 12 gals, how do people do it? I fill 6 one gallon jugs w/ water and let them sit overnight to come up to room temp. Then I siphon the turtle water into a large container (it takes to trips) and dump it into a utility sink then dump the 6 gallons of water in, after I've rinsed out the filter media. And finally refill the 6 jugs to leave overnight and dump it in the next morning. Do you have any advice for me? Also, I'm thinking of using my old tank for feeding only, how does that work? Do I have to change all the water and bring it up to temp every day? Thanks, Helen
<Go to DrsFosterSmith.com and order a Python No Spill Clean 'N Fill system. Measure the distance between the aquarium and the utility sink. They come in lengths up to 100 feet but you can always join two lengths together to make it longer if you have to. Turn off all the power to the turtle tank. Attach the hose to the faucet at the sink and set it to drain. Vacuum all the water out of the tank and vacuum the substrate while you are at it. When the tank is dry you can set the water temperature at the sink for lukewarm and then set up the python to fill the aquarium back up to the desired level. Add water conditioner as you are adding water to remove any chlorine or chloramines in the water. Then turn the power back on and check the electronics. An aquarium filter is very helpful to keep the tank looking good in between water changes. Place you turtle in a wide container with some lukewarm water. Feed your turtle until his eating starts to slow down. He is getting full so don't force any more food on him. They can die from over eating. Usually when they eat they will soon defecate in this container to make room for the new food. Just dump out the water. Do this three times a week.-Chuck>

Turtle Dock - 02/09/2007
I am making a turtle dock out of PVC and plexi-glass. What glues do your
recommend? Would PVC cement ( Oatey's brand) be ok?
<I would use this between the PVC pipe itself and some Silastic ("Silicone") to adhere the Plexi to the top>
Also, what is the difference
between silicone adhesive and silicone sealant?
<These are identical>
I have heard many different
things, and I do not want to kill the turtles.
Thanks for your help,
Katherine
<Just look for, buy one that states it is 100% Silicone... no additives (some have mildewcides for tub, window applications). Bob Fenner>

Via Aqua Filters
Hi
This is a stupid question but I just moved into a house and the previous tenant had 2 turtles in a tank he said he would come back in a few days and pick the turtles up and never did. I don't know any thing about filters or how to keep marine life in general! Any way the water is all dirty so I figured the filter and tank needs cleaning. The tank has a Via Aqua filter but I have no Idea where to begin and If I take It apart water just flows out. I have been to all my local pet stores etc and no one know of these filters. I need to do some thing I feel cruel keeping these turtles in the tank like that.
How do I go about Cleaning these filters?
<Mmm, easy enough... disassemble, rinse... sometimes renew activated carbon to rid the smell of those stinky turtles... Please see here: http://www.commodityaxis.com/ResourceData.aspx?id=21 or contact Commodity Axis for more information re their canister filters. Bob Fenner>

Turtles Need The Right Light 1/3/07
Hi , I need some help about the set-up of terrapin tank. From this website and several others , I found out that basking spot is needed for terrapin but currently I didn't have any UVB or UVA light installed. I recently have 3 small terrapin in a rather small tank, approximately 25cm by 40cm, and I wanted to ask whether is UVB and UVA really necessary ?
< Absolutely! This lighting prevents shell problems and helps the turtle develop normally.>
Because from some other website , they say that placing your tank near natural sunlight is sufficient.
<UVB and UVA is somewhat filtered out by glass. To make sure they get what they need it is best to actually purchase the correct lighting they require.>
My question is, is it true that by placing the tank at natural sun light sufficient for the terrapin ?
<Depends on many factors. Duration and intensity of the light are the big ones. The sun moves through out the year. What may work today may not work in a few weeks when then sun changes its angles for the seasons.>
If it is sufficient, should the tank be placed under direct sunlight or just a spot whereby there is sun light? I hope you do get what I mean because my command of English isn't very good.
< The hours off illumination should match the outdoor daylight hours. Longer in the summer and shorter in the winter. If you keep you turtles indoors where it is warm and limit there basking hours to the short winter time exposures they will have problems. Turtle can live for 40+ years with proper care. I would recommend that you invest the small sum required to give these little guys a chance at a long health life.>
Also like several of the people here , I have 1 terrapin that's less active and closes its eyes for a longer duration compared to the other 2 turtles.
When I hold it , it will open its eyes and clearly its not swollen and look visually infection free. It mixes around with the other 2 terrapins and also eats normally. Is it ok ?
< When I pick up a healthy turtle, it should retract into its shell for a moment and then extend its legs and attempt to get away. Staying retracted in its shell for an extended time does not sound healthy.>
Is my tank too small for them? They are about 3 cm (1"+) in length?
< Your tank is fine for them at the moment, but you will need a bigger tank in about a year if you follow my recommendations.>
I hope you could reply as soon as possible as I love them a lot and I don't want them to pass away like their friends and other terrapin I got from those shops.
< Spend a little money to get the right equipment a they will reward you with years of entertainment.>
Is it true that they recognize their owner in time?
<They are really smart. After awhile they realize who is the one feeding them and soon they will be begging every time they see you.-Chuck>

African Side Neck Turtle Care 12/31/06
Greetings, I recently found myself in possession of a African Side-Necked Turtle, I was curious as to his/her requirements with temperature, food, UVB lighting and wet/dry requirements? Also what size enclosure is suggested for such a animal? I currently have him housed in a 15 gal. @ 85-86 degrees, I feed him HBH turtle bite, Tetra fauna ReptoTreat Suprema, live crickets and he has a little floating dock to bask on. He has a 7.0 UVB light and a Whisper power filter to filter the water. I have searched for care sheets or information on the web, but haven't had any specific luck finding the information. Just tid-bits here and there. Best, Steve
< These are very hardy little turtles that come from muddy areas in East Africa. They get about 8 inches and will need an aquarium or container about 30 to 40 gallons when an adult. They need a basking area that gets about 85 to 90 F. Since they come from a warm climate they need to have their water heated to the mid 70's F. They eat anything. Older turtles should get lots of vegetable matter like kale and spinach. They are best kept by themselves. They tame down pretty well over time. Be careful because the long neck can reach around and cause a nasty bite.-Chuck>

Wise Parent Needs Turtle Knowledge   12/17/06
I want to buy a turtle for my daughter. However I want one that will stay fairly small. Are there any breeds that make fairly good pets and stay under 6 inches at full growth?
Also what supplies will I need to purchase up front to provide good care for a turtle?
Thanks Abby Michl
< First let me compliment you on checking in BEFORE you buy the turtle. Too many times we get questions on turtle after they buy them. Check out painted turtles. They don't get as big as red eared sliders, and only get about 7 inches long. Red eared turtles get aggressive too. A painted turtle will go well in a 40 gallon aquarium that is half filled with water. They need to come out of the water and bask to get the proper lighting and warmth to digest their food and develop vitamins. They do well on a diet of commercial aquatic turtle pellets, insects ,worms and green vegetables. Here is the check list:
1) 40 gallon aquarium for one adult turtle
2) Hood/Top with fluorescent fixture to keep critters out.
3) Porcelain Clamp light fixture to provide a heated basking spot
4) UVB fluorescent light to light up the aquarium and provide the right light wave lengths
5) Basking Spot Lamp to provide heat for the basking site. Needs to be at least 85 F.
6) Water conditioner to remove chlorine from the water.
7) Water filter to keep the aquarium water clean
8) Basking site
9) Thermometer
10) Aquatic turtle food
11) Hand sanitizers
Turtles can carry bacteria that is harmful to humans. It is very important to wash your hands and or sanitize them after handling turtles or cleaning the cage. If this sounds like a lot of money and equipment just think that this turtle may live for another 20 to 30 years! There is a very good book on water turtles titled " The Proper Care and Maintenance of Water Turtles" by Phillipe De Vosjoli. ZooMed distributes this book along with almost all of the items you will need.-Chuck>

Canister filter problems with air locks on turtle tank   12/15/06
I'm in the process of setting up a 280 gallon turtle tank, in an aquarium that used to be just fish.  All was going well until I dropped the water level about 9" below the top of the tank, tried to restart my Fluval FX5 canister filter, and discovered that it is not strong enough to overcome the airlock.
<Ah, yes... actually the "draw" or vacuum is problematical here... Like most canister filters, this ones pump is intended to "push", not pull...>
For the time being I am pushing water into the Fluval with an Iwaki
pump, but it is very noisy and of course the Fluval was not designed for such use.
<Yes... and quite dangerous... could easily "pop" open the canister... flood your floor... I would remove this pump, not use it>
What do people usually do to overcome this problem?
Frank.
<Mmm, many folks use internal filters with turtles... there are powered and air-driven types you could use... do ask your LFS dealer (fish stores) what they have, suggest here. These types of filters require about as regular... weekly, cleaning as a canister. Bob Fenner>

46G Bowfront for Turtle?  11/23/06
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
Is there such a thing in all the world as a 46 gal bowfront  screen mesh top for a turtle tank??
<No, you would have to custom make something like that.  I don't think a bowfront is the best tank for a turtle.  It needs a longer footprint for swimming room, not taller.  A 55g would be much  better & you can find screen tops for them.  ~PP>

River Tank  10-27-06
Hi Kathy, It's Pufferpunk (not Pufferpink but that does sound kinda funny...)
Thanks so much for the reply.  I'm a new turtle owner (just a few months), she is an adult painted turtle.  Can you explain about or send a link about the river-tank system you mention?  I have a huge canister filter but it does, eventually, clog with plant bits.
<Here are a couple of pics of the 55g river tank kit I have:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/Pufferpunk/TurtleRiverTank.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/Pufferpunk/DwarfAfricanBullfrogHome.jpg
I'm sorry I don't have better pics.  I think if you really search, these are still being sold somewhere...  There's a powerhead under the water fall, that draws all the water through the gravel that's built up on the land side.  It goes over a water fall & through a river, back into the water 1/2 of the tank.  It's pretty cool.  ~PP>
Thanks again, Kathy
Thanks so much for the reply.  I'm a new turtle owner (just a few months), she is an adult painted turtle.  Can you explain about or send a link about the river-tank system you mention?  I have a huge canister filter but it does, eventually, clog with plant bits.
Thanks again, Kathy

Turtle Surviving In the Outdoor Koi Pond 10/5/06
My wife found a tiny baby turtle in our yard in the spring, we named him Sal Manilla. We constructed an enclosure in the shallow end of our koi pond, about 12" wide by 24" long, and about 8" deep. He's been there all summer, and grown to around 2 inches in size on a diet of turtle pellets, koi pellets, blood worms and brine shrimp. We had considered bringing him indoors for the winter, but now are wondering if it might be better for him if we released him into the pond. The pond is about 3 feet deep, 3000 gallons, and our koi survive the winter well there.
Are concerns are due to cold winter (we can easily expect long stretches where it will remain below freezing, and occasional overnight temps as low as 0 degrees F), his young age, and in some small part, also concerned he might burrow into the gravel bottom and tear the lining of the pond.
Option 2 is a 5 gal aquarium. Do you think our turtle Sal has a decent chance of surviving the winter outdoors in Rhode Island? After all, he was born wild...
You opinion would be greatly appreciated. Dave
< I would keep him indoors. The natural pond is made of a soil/clay bottom. If the water gets too cold then he could bury deeper in the mud and increase the insulation. Gravel is too porous and allows the cold water all the way through to the bottom liner an offers no insulation.-Chuck>

Calcium Build Up On Shell 9/8/06
I've been doing my research and trying to get specific help for such a case. My problem is: I have very hard water which does have a mineral build up around my tanks glass as the water evaporates. I've had my two baby turtles for around 2 months now. One is growing much larger than the other it has nearly doubled the others size already) and has started shedding. Along with the rapid growth and shedding it's shell has gone from a nice green to a grey/green all over...his skin is nice and green still, but I don't like the color of his shell. Now, I know that this is probably due to the minerals in my water, but how can I get this under control before they turn completely white? *smiles* And btw, the smaller of the two is also starting to show signs of a greyish shell. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks Mitch
< The only effective long term solution is to demineralize the water with a very good R/O (Reverse Osmosis) unit. Figure out how much water you need per week and buy a unit that at least will double it. Get one that has a back flushing valve to prolong the membranes life. Lots of articles/FAQs on R/O on the WWM site. Mix the R/O water with 25% tap water. The turtles need some calcium in their water.-Chuck>

Canister Filter For Turtle Tank - 09/07/06
Hello Bob, I just found your site on questions and answers today while doing some research on canister filter systems. My set up is for 2 red eared sliders about 15 years old, 7 and 8 (inches approx.) in length. The tank (50 gal) is about 80 % full of water. I have attached a ramp and a flat dry area near the water line with ledgers and aquarium silicone (very basic and not pleasing to look at but you can't have stuff the turtles can fit into their mouths). I had an old AquaClear outside power filter hanging off the back but it recently got dropped during a cleaning. It was doing a fine job of keeping the water clear with the sponge and carbon but each time the power went off it would get hot and stop. Luckily it never burned out. I probably should have done more research but as you know, you can't leave a turtle tank unfiltered. Stinky! I would do complete water changes every 7 to 10 days to keep the glass clear and remove the turds. I purchased a Odyssea CFs 4 and so far no problems. I have been doing research (belated I know) on this product because I had not heard of it before. I worked for a local pet store 20 plus years ago and it was not around then. Info that I have seen suggests that the o rings dry quickly and the on off valves where the hoses attach to the canister are not up to par (don't last too long leak wise and break easily). It can still be returned for an exchange. You seem to prefer the Eheim in the info that I have read. Would you suggest going that route?
< This is a new filter that has had mixed reviews. It is cheap, somewhat powerful and a little noisy. I think if your tubing is fairly straight then there is less of an issue with the valves. With sharp bends on the tubing, the valves can't hold the hoses intact and this stress and it creates cracks and leaks. Eheim has been around for many years. Their filters are expensive and not as powerful but they are well made and will last a very long time.>
Also the outlet part of the Odyssea seems to create a lot of foam. They seem to be afraid of the foam. The falls from the AquaClear did not make foam. I could lower the outlet into the water because the turtles do not require aeration like fish, just filtration. Also would a sterilizer be a good investment?
< Not needed for a turtle tank.-Chuck>
Thanks you for any information you might have to give me. Alethea

Small Soft Shell Turtle   8/30/06
Hi I have a soft shell turtle I have had it for nearly a year now and its  still about 5cm long is this normal?
< Soft shell turtle actually require some warmth. Your turtle should be close to twice that size. Get a heater for the tank and set at 75 to 80 F. Feed foods that are high in protein like fish, insects and worms.-Chuck>

Turtles Survival In Pond 8/19/06
Thanks. I have one more  question. My friend has a pond at his home and its in the woods a bit and its a  natural pond with leaves, mud, fish, and a few other sliders and other species  of turtle. This pond is not heated and is over 6 feet deep in places. Could my  turtles live in this pond year round with out being fed by people and having to  get fish and bugs themselves? I have released a red eared slider in this pond a  few years ago before I had any info about if I could release or not  without it dying. Also one of my turtles is a 6" red eared slider and the  other is a small other species of turtle that looks like the slider but has no red on its neck. What kind of turtle is it and can this kind of turtle be  released into this pond? Thanks for your time and your help is very  appreciated.
< Depending on where you live in the U.S., the red eared slider could be found there naturally. I would not release any turtle into an area once it has been established in captivity. In this friend's pond the turtle is subject to attack by predators like raccoons. If your turtle is sick then it could make other turtles sick too. This turtle could possibly cross breed with other turtles. If you no longer want your turtle then offer it to a friend, school or pet shop instead of turning it loose on the environment. There is a big problem with red eared sliders competing with native turtles. Send a photo of the other turtle for a species ID.-Chuck>

New Yellow Bellied Slider Turtle - 08/12/06
Hi. I found a turtle in my front yard the other day and I have some questions. I read the FAQ's and found a lot of useful info, but I need to know if I put Reptisafe in along with the little turtle-shape blocks? Or just one at a time?
< The Reptisafe is a water conditioner that removes chlorine and some harmful minerals. The Dr Turtle Sulpha Block adds sulfur to the water to inhibit bacteria and acidify the water.> <<Can be mixed. RMF>>
Also, she swims and swims against the glass. Is this normal? Is she freaking out? She was in a pond at one time as there is algae on her shell. I only have a 10 gal tank for now.
< Your new turtle is accustomed to being out in the open with lots of swimming room. Now he is confined to a little 10 gallon tank and needs time to slowly get use to his smaller tank.>
Thanks for the help and I do enjoy your site. Are you guys veterinarians or just have a lot of experience?  Sara
< I am a long time amateur aquarist/herpetologist with some experience and lots of good books to look things up.-Chuck>

Hibernating Turtles 8/12/06
Hello. I have 2 red eared sliders and I have them outside in a pond. They have plenty of basking space and shady places. I have been keeping them in the pond for a few summers now and have been bringing them inside during the winter. I was wondering if it is possible to keep them outside during the winter and if so do I need mud in the bottom or what should I do. Thank you
<Hibernating turtles can be somewhat challenging. First your turtles must be in good health. Sick turtles do not usually survive a season of hibernation. Secondly, is make sure they are well fed. They must have enough fat reserves to last them through the winter. Do not feed them in the late fall when things have already cooled off. The food will rot in their gut and cause problems. Depending on where you live the pond needs to be fairly deep so that it doesn't freeze solid. In the south a couple of feet may be fine. Deeper the farther north you go. They need mud to bury themselves and to help insolate them. This year many turtles came out of hibernation early because of an unusually warm winter and early spring. Sudden cold fronts caught them already out and many turtles got sick with respiratory infections.-Chuck>

Chinese Soft Shell Turtle in a Pond? 6/9/06
Dear WWM Crew,
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
I have a female Chinese soft shell turtle that I love dearly. I am moving into my boyfriend's house and he doesn't want her. :(
<Guess you love the boyfriend more?>
I don't want to give her up, so I am trying to find a compromise to keep her with me. I live in the UK, so its pretty warm here at the minute, but as you know the winters can be bitter. So, my boyfriend has a pond, with nothing in it. I was wondering if I could build an enclosure that was kept at a constant temperature to house her in? I'm a designer and he is an electrician - I'm sure we could come up with something!
Do you think so long as the temperature was controlled and the water filtered she'd be ok? Are there any other considerations we should take into account?
<Would work but very expensive to heat, IMO. ~PP>
Thanks guys, I look forward to hearing from you

Rare Wood Turtle Needs Proper TLC - 06/07/2006
Hello Crew,
I just saw Brandon Heuyard's turtle pix & post of 4-11-2006 post . It is a woodland turtle,...rare, possibly threatened. It is semi aquatic, lives near stream & rivers. Needs a lot of good care, fresh water for soak immersion which must be changed daily suggest & right after defecation, food is berries fruit, earth worms, fresh lean beef cut up small. If one wants to keep one, I suggest reading up on them, food, habitat & very important hibernation requirement for continued well being. Not a child's fun pet , but a serious custody only. I do not
know how to reach & am not figure out how to access forum. Please post & you may share email address with him. Ellen < eplanner(AT)ix(DOT)netcom(DOT)com <<Replace the (AT) with @ and the (DOT)s with . - just trying to avoid someone getting spammed. -Sabrina>>>
< Thank you for your concern and we will post on the site for all to read.-Chuck>

Old Box Turtle  5/26/06
My name is Stacy I am 14.
Hi Stacey, Pufferpunk here.>
My sisters boyfriend found this box turtle on the side of the road on a rainy day.  When he got home he gave me the turtle.  I noticed that my turtle has 2 holes in her shell.
<This is common with older turtles.  Had some shell damage in the past but should be fine & be able to live a long life with this.>
On his right back leg that he only has 1 nail on it and the other has all 3.
<Yes, you have a 3-toed box turtle with 1 deformed foot.  No issues there.>
I was wondering what I could do to fix everything that's wrong with her.
<Nothing to fix.  Just things that happen to a turtle in the wild.  Be sure to give it at least a 20 gallon tank, with a shelter on one side (an overturned box with the side cut out will do & a water bowl large enough for it to bathe in on the other side.  Be sure to change the water daily, or it will be drinking poop water.  Mulch is a great substrate for them.  It's cheap & you can buy large bags even at most gas stations during gardening season. Just make sure not to use cedar, it poisonous!  Change every 2 weeks & hand clean any poop daily (most will be in the water).  You will also need a reflector lamp for warmth.
Food: dark green veggies (no iceberg lettuce--mostly water), any fruits.  Frozen mixed veggies (defrosted 1st, of course) work well.  So do fruit cocktail, well rinsed, for quick feedings.  They love red foods.  Canned dog food or dry soaked in water.  Crickets & earthworms (found in wild-box turtles tummies when dissected), are a favorite treat.  Dust the food with reptile vitamins (be sure they have calcium in there, for the shell).
If kept properly, a box turtle can live over 30 years!  ~PP>
Thanks a lot, Stacy Cline

Turtle Toys - 05/17/2006
I was wondering if you guys have any ideas for turtle toys. Our 2 turtles (Tank and Diesel) get bored. I was wondering if there were any toys made for turtles or any thing that could be turned into a toy. Thanks, Lisa
< Turtles are always interested in food. I would recommend that you vary their diet with live earthworms, crickets, mealworms and kingworms. If they are somewhat larger you could add vegetable matter like spinach and kale. Zoo Med has recently come out with a floating turtle log. It is a hollow floating log that turtles can climb out on as well as go inside to feed. I am confident they will love it.-Chuck>

New Birthday Turtle Questions 5/9/06
Hi! My friends just recently bought me a turtle for my birthday and I had a couple of questions. First: They set up the tank for me and automatically put the turtle in the water… is this bad?
< No turtle are used to being put directly into water.>
Should they have let the water settle?
< No, not needed as with fish.>
Second: The heater is lying on its side in the water. I have read that heating rocks are not good for turtles. I was wondering if the turtle is able to climb on it, will he burn himself?
<Pull the heating rock and replace it with a good basking with a proper light bulb that will heat the area up at least 85 F and provide the required UVA and UVB radiation.>
Should I rig it up differently?
< Yes as described above.>
Third: I have read through your website and wanted to know if when changing the water, how exactly should I do this? Should I let that settle for a couple of days before putting it in? What is the best way to go about this?
< Siphon or pour the water out of the tank. Fill a 5 gallon bucket with a good water conditioner and fill up the bucket and then pour it in the tank.>
I want to do this the safest way possible for my turtle… please help!
A seriously concerned turtle parent!
< Turtles are not as touchy about their water as fish are. Just add the water conditioner and pour it in.-Chuck>

Smelly Turtle Tank - 04/04/2006
Hello all, I tried searching your site and while I found people with somewhat similar problems, none seemed quite so severe as mine (so I apologize if this is a repeat question).  I have two Mississippi map turtles in what I seem to recall is a 20 gallon tank.  The turtles are about fourish inches long (one slightly larger).  The
problem is this:  I am having to clean the tank (and by clean I don't mean a partial or complete water change, I mean empty the entire thing out and scrub it
down) two to three times a week because the water gets very cloudy and they start to stink horribly.  I understand these type of turtles are relatively high
maintenance, but I did not think they would be nearly this bad.  The worst time I cleaned them in the afternoon and literally that evening (say a turnover
of four-five hours) the water was clouding already. Is this normal (I really don't feel it is)?  And if not, what am I doing wrong?  Just a quick note, I have
not changed what I feed them at all, I have started feeding them a little more than I used to -3 times a day about 3ish pinches of ZooMed aquatic turtles food-
(because they splash around at the top of the tank and eat like they are starved each time I put food in). Water temps and such have remained constant.  I've had
them for nearly 1 1/2 years and this is the first time I've experienced such a problem.  Sorry for the long e-mail, just trying to get you as much info as
possible.  Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Luke
<As turtles get older they need more vegetable matter in their diets. If you haven't already, switch to the adult turtle formula instead of the hatchling formula. I suspect that they are passing much of this protein into the water causing the ammonia spike. Try this, feed your turtles as much as they will eat. In an hour then vacuum out all the water with a Python Water Changer and replace it with fresh water. This will remove any uneaten food as well as any new fecal matter. This should keep things cleaner for a longer time period. A 20 gallon tank is small for two turtles of this size. Try to up grade to a bigger tank with greater surface area.-Chuck>

Re: Tank Space For Turtles - 04/04/2006
Just a quick follow up question (the original should be included, so I hope there is no confusion there).
About what size tank would you recommend for these two turtles (Mississippi map about four inches)? And for
about how long would a bigger tank be ok for them (in other words, should I just break down and buy a huge tank now)? Thanks so much for all your help.
< A rule of thumb that Zoo Med Labs recommends is the tank should be at least 5 times the length of the turtle. One four inch turtle needs 20 inches or approximately a twenty gallon tank. Two turtles should have a 40 gallon tank. Keep in mind that a female will get up to 10 inches while a male will get about half that size. Two adult females need a 100 gallon tank while two males would need a 50 gallon. Consider placing them outdoors during the summer.-Chuck>

Poor Painted Turtles - 03/22/06
I have 2 red eared sliders that I've been raising for about a year now and their doing awesome but now my sister brought to me her 2 painted turtles she got this summer and they have not grown at all! Their probably the size of a quarter still. She never had a light or warm water or anything for them and now I have to take care of them. I have no clue what to do with them and I feel bad for them! All I have right now is one cage, so I put them in with my red eared sliders. They're probably 3-4 inches and their a male and female but I don't think their even one yet? Can they reproduce?
< Probably not until next year.>
Is it okay for the baby painted turtles to be in the tank with them?
< No, red eared sliders are very aggressive turtles and will hog all the food and intimidate the smaller turtles to the point to they will not eat.>
What should I do to help them grow?
< Start treating them like you RES's when they were small and give them the TLC they deserve.>
When I pick them up I can actually feel their legs moving through the center of their shell on the bottom in the center. I think their not in good shape? What can I do? Help me please!
< Start by giving them their own tank. Set up a basking site that gets at least 85 to 90 F. Start to give them ZooMed Aquatic Turtle food for hatchlings along with some small washed earthworms. Basking and proper diet with start to harden the shell and get them back on track.-Chuck>

Cleaning the Turtle Tank. - 02/16/2006
Chuck, Thank you for your response.  We have done 100% water change (I'm going to hate my water bill this month) twice since I sent you the below email.  Within 2-3 days, we can't see the other side of this tank.
I did notice when I cleaned it, in the corners and by his heater and dock there were orange/red particles.  I've never seen or heard of an orange algae.  Also, describing it as "cloudy" is a bit misleading.  His water looks kind of like LA smog - a bit of a yellow/orange tinge to it.
Below you mention feeding him.   We have been feeding him the same diet and the same amount of food.  Nothing has changed.  We also scoop out any left over food after about an hour. We also bought a brand new Fluval 4 filter and changed the submersible filter. I went to the pet store to look at some algae kill products, but I don't want to hurt my turtle. Any more suggestions?
< I don't think it is an algae problem. He is what I think is going on. Is your turtle food and orange color? I am thinking that when the turtle bites into the food it breaks down into fine dust like particles. This dust settles out in the corners of the tank with little or no current. The dust starts to decompose and feeds the algae and clouds the tank. Probably with the food particles. Instead of feeding him the same food I would suggest a change in diet. For one week try mealworms, kingworms, and earthworms and see if the tank clears up. If it does then switch another brand of turtle food and continue to supplement his diet with the occasional worms.-Chuck>

Keeping Turtles In The Dark   2/13/06
I know I am supposed to get a UVA/UVB light and a heat lamp for the basking area, but at night when I go to sleep, should I turn off both, or just the UVA/UVB light?
< Turn off all the lights at night.>
Also, I have been given advice to get a water heater that transfers heat from a pad underneath the tank.  Will that work ok, or should I put the heat source directly in the water?
<Follow the manufacturers directions and use the product as it is intended. If the pad is not intended for use under an aquarium then do not use it.>
One more question.  As far as thermometers go, can I stick them on the inside of the glass tank, or will that give me an inaccurate reading of the real temperature of the water and the air?
< Follow the directions on the package of the thermometer for best results.-Chuck> thinks Dan

Wormy Turtle Tank   2/13/06
Hi guys, I am lately finding very tiny red worms in the water when I clean the habitat of my RES? Is this a parasite? What should I do? Thanks, Therese
< Could be a parasite. Clean the tank and treat with Fluke-Tabs. This will kill any worms in the water. If you still find worms then take a fecal sample to a vet for analysis and further treatment if needed.-Chuck>

Turtle Care 02/12/06
Thank you so much that was really quick and great advise I have some more questions, my turtles are now in a 20 gallon tank with a basking light and a UVB light they are being fed ZooMed's pellets and meal worms I gave them tomatoes today and they like them a lot I hope that was ok.  They have a turtle dock in there and an alligator that makes bubbles and some other decorations.  Am I doing everything right? Is there anything I can do better?
<Hi, you did not mention the type of filtration you are using or your maintenance regime, but other than it sounds like you are in the right track, they will need a larger tank in time.  Best Regards, Gage>

Smelly Cloudy Turtle Tank   2/10/06
Hello, I have a 100 gallon tank with a Fluval 400 underneath it and I also have a submersible inside the tank.  It is complete with heater, basking dock, basking light and fluorescent lighting as well. We've had Wilo for over 9 years now and we have noticed some changes in his tank.  It started to get very cloudy.  We did a partial water change and within a couple days, it was cloudy again.  So, we did a complete change of the water the weekend before last and within a few days, the tank turned cloudy. Now we are used to the tank clouding up a bit when we change the water, but it is never this bad and the cloudiness goes away in a couple of days.  This wasn't getting better, so we went to the pet store and bought some water treatments, but that didn't work. So, last weekend we took everything out (new turtle dock, new rocks, new filter). I came home last night AND THE TANK WAS CLOUDY.  It is driving us nuts. So, since we have changed out everything inside the tank but the turtle himself, could it be the turtle?  Is there some kind of disease that would make them smell bad and possibly cloud up his water?
He is a very healthy turtle and doesn't seem sick, but it's not like he can tell me if he is or not.  As advanced as Wilo (he is like a dog in a shell) is for a turtle, he isn't all that.  :-)
Can you help or are we being dumb? Thanks, Christine
< There are three things you need a filter to do. One is called mechanical filtration. This is the removal of large visual particles you see in the water. Next is chemical filtration. This is the use or reagents and resins to remove undesirable chemicals in the water. The third and most important thing is the biological filtration. This is a process of establishing the microbes needed to break down smelly cloudy ammonia into less smelly nitrites and then finally nitrates. First feed you turtle three to four times a week. Feed him until he is full. After a half hour, siphon out all the left over food and any waste. This will remove the largest part of the problem. Leftover food and fecal matter will pollute a tank very quickly. Once a week vacuum the gravel while doing a 50% water change. Clean the Fluval once every two weeks. Add carbon to the filter to improve water quality. On the weeks you don't clean the Fluval you should clean the submersible. If you clean everything all at once you will lose the good bacteria needed to break down the waste. Bio-Spira from Marineland will put the bacteria back in and help take care of the problem.-Chuck>

Turtle Questions - 2/4/2006
Do turtles need a shaded spot?
<They should have an area under the water out of the direct light. On land they do not need one.>
I just bought a 29gal long tank, 2 small 1" RES's, have about 9"s of water (had them with little water before) and a large floating a whisper filter up to 40gal filter, floating large island and a night bulb and day bulb from Wal-Mart. Do turtles need no light at all sometimes?
< They should have between 10 to 12 hours of darkness to reflect a normal day.>
Should I use the night bulb at night and day bulb in the day?
< The daytime bulb should contain UVA and UVB. There is no need for the night time bulb.>
Should there be no light sometimes?
< Ten to twelve hours of darkness will allow them to get the rest they need.>
How soon (sidewise I guess) should you feed turtles small fish?
< Small turtles need a bigger percentage of protein than older turtles. I would recommend that you stay away from the feeder fish and go with a commercial turtle diet supplemented with washed earthworms, mealworms , crickets and kingworms.>
What type of fish do they eat?
< In the wild they will eat whatever fish they can catch.>
Does it matter? I took all the rocks out now, now they have a lot of room to swim?
They will probably appreciate the additional space.>
I will be buying another small island, so the 2 can bask in there own spot, good idea?
<Yes if they will use it that way. Normally they go to which ever spot is the warmest.>
What is the best temp? I've herd from 74-80 F?
< The basking spot should be at least 85 to 90 F. The water can be at room temperature.-Chuck>
Thanks, Alex L

Turtle Care 2/7/06
Thank you so much that was really quick and great advise. I have some more questions, my turtles are now in a 20 gallon tank with a basking light and a UVB light they are being fed zoo meds pellets and meal worms. I gave them tomatoes today and they like them a lot. I hope that was ok. They have a turtle dock in there and a alligator that makes bubbles and some other decorations in there. Am I doing everything right? Is there anything I can do better?
<As you turtle gets older he will need more vegetable matter,-Chuck>

Python Water Changer For Turtle Tank 1/22/06
Hi there! I have been reading these posts all night, and I am impressed. This e-mail isn't to ask a question, but rather to suggest a new post. Many of your readers have asked about keeping the tank clean. I have recently discovered a little gizmo called 'The Python'. It is my opinion that EVERYONE who has turtles should get one because they make life a heck of a lot easier. All it is a tube that hooks to any faucet in your house and the other end goes into your aquarium. You just switch the settings a bit and it sucks the water out of the tank and puts in back in...all WITHOUT a pump!!! It is amazing. I have had my RES for almost 6 years, and she is doing very well and always has. I don't know why someone didn't suggest this to me earlier because it makes the weekly 30-50% water changes MUCH MUCH easier. They come in all different lengths so it doesn't matter how far away your sink is...so go invest...IT IS WAAAAAYYYYY worth it!!!Melanie
< Aquarists have used these for years and they do work great. Happy to pass this along to the turtle keepers out there. thanks.-Chuck>

New Turtle Found - 01/09/2006
Hi. I've tried the google search, but I need more detailed help and info, please. =) I found a tiny baby turtle laying on the ground outside by my car this morning. He was non-responsive and has been throughout the day. I have never owned a turtle and I know nothing about them. Although I'm in FL, it's been really chilly the last couple of days. (Thick sweater weather.) If I'm cold, I know this tiny creature must be freezing. What can I do to nurse him to health? He moves slightly if I touch him but he doesn't open his eyes at all. He doesn't walk or swim, but, he did very briefly open his tiny mouth and then he promptly shut it. Please help! =)
<Get the turtle in a shallow dish of fresh water. Just enough to cover his shell. Provide a ramp on to which he can crawl out of the water. At the top of this ramp provide a plant bulb that is hot enough to heat the spot at the top of the ramp to 85 F. If the eyes are swollen or inflamed then treat them with Zoo Med Repti Turtle Eye Drops. When his eyes are open and he starts to move around you can feed him small washed earthworms or a commercial baby turtle food that you can get at a local pet shop.-Chuck>

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