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FAQs about Acroporid Coral Foods/Feeding/Nutrition
Related Articles: Acroporids,
SPS Corals, Related FAQs:
Acroporids 1, Acroporids 2,
Acroporid Identification, Acroporid
Behavior, Acroporid Selection,
Acroporid Compatibility, Acroporid
Disease, Acroporid Systems,
Acroporid Reproduction, Stony/True Coral,
Coral System Set-Up, Coral System
Lighting, Stony Coral Identification,
Stony Coral Selection, Coral Placement,
Foods/Feeding/Nutrition,
Disease/Health, Propagation,
Growing Reef Corals, Stony
Coral Behavior, Some from
photosynthesis, some nutrition from feeding/s... and changeable. | 
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Acropora Care/Feeding – 04/23/08 Hello again Crew,
<<Greetings>> Well, I've decided to not go with the
clownfish-anemone-tank plan and rather create a peaceful community of
Gobiodon citrinus with a pair of Stonogobiops nematodes <<Both neat
little fishes>> and maybe another peaceful fish. Anyways, I have a
few questions. 1. As you might know, I've been planning on culturing
phytoplankton and copepods. My tank is 86g with a 35g sump. Starting out
with, say, a 4" Acropora frag, how would I feed it phyto? Target feed?
Dumping bottle of phyto into the tank? <<Phytoplankton is of no
direct benefit to the Acropora as they are decidedly carnivorous…though
it can be beneficial in small doses to feed those organisms upon which
the Acropora will feed. Better to feed the Acropora foods like Rotifers
and Cyclops-Eeze (can simply be the “leftovers” from feeding the
fishes), and install an inline plankton-generating refugium>> 2. How
would I feed copepods to the prawn gobies? Target feed? Dump them in
tank? <<These can be simply “dumped in the tank” as you state>> 3.
Would I ever have to feed the clown gobies? <<Yes>> 4.
Approximately how many coral heads should I have per goby? I'm thinking
about having four pairs of gobies in my tank. I have around 125lbs of
LR. <<Mmm…will take several LARGE colonies. My experience with these
fish and Acropora is not a good one. While these fish are found in
association with Acros in the wild, the confines/limitations of captive
systems do pose problems re. Maybe yours will be different, but in my
experience these fish tend to nip and irritate the Acropora to the point
they will not extend polyps and slowly decline in color/apparent
health>> Well, that's it for now. I sent an email titled "copepod
culture" to you on Thursday and have yet to get a response. Just a
reminder. <<Hmm, this should have been returned by now…you may want
to resend>> Anyways, once again, I love your site. It's simply
awesome. <<Thank you…a collective effort>> Thanks in Advance,
Random Aquarist <<Happy to share. EricR>>
Monti Cap Question... gen... - 2-13-08 Hey there guys. I am
back! I recently bought a Montipora capricornis at the LFS for a good
deal. I was wondering what kind of special stuff it would need.
<Proper water flow, water conditions, lighting> I know the lighting
is not a problem. I feed DT phyto plankton and Cyclop-eeze. <Neither
of which an 'SPS' coral such as this will eat, at least not directly/for
the most part> Anything else in particular that this coral will need?
it is my first SPS, so I am trying to start off right! <This is a
very basic question that can be answered by a perusal of WWM's
respective archives. Also, please use proper spelling/capitalization in
the future! Start here
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm in your quest for
'SPS' related knowledge!> Thanks guys, Jake <Anytime - M. Maddox>
SPS feeding 7/12/07
Hello again Crew So I was at a friends house over the weekend, and he
kindly gave me several frags, as well as a dinner plate size Montipora
Capricornis. <How do you know it's Montipora capricornis? Not that it
matters much, but how do you know it's not Montipora aequituberculata or
Montipora foliosa? Granted, chance is in your favor and it is likely to
be Montipora capricornis. But please be cautious of assuming you know
the specific species of any given coral. Identification down to species
is quite difficult and requires close examination of the exposed
skeleton.> All in all he gave me 5 corals. They are Montipora
Capricornis, Montipora Digitata, Echinophyllia, a green starburst
colony, and a type of Sinularia. I normally do my research before
introducing new livestock into my tank, but not this time. May because
they were free? <Bad excuse, but I'll forgive you.> My tank is a
210 gal, 55 gal Sump/Ref with Chaeto (not growing for some reason), 200#
LR, AquaC EV240, Aquamedic 4x39 watt T5, 3x250 watt MH. In addition
to the above, Livestock consists of 9" Volitans Lion 1" Yellowtail
Damsel 5" Harlequin Tusk 4" Emperor Angel 4" Sohal Tang <The
emperor angel might nip at some of your corals once it's an adult.> 1
very large Devils Hand Leather (I think) 3 smaller colt corals 1
large zoanthid colony 1 small open brain I want to add 2 more
corals to finish off my tank. Hopefully an Acropora of some kind, and a
frogspawn. The tank is 6 months old, and has been doing great!
<That's good, but Acropora shouldn't not be added to tanks less than a
year old.> I do weekly water changes of 40gal with RODI water.
Nitrates are around 2-5ppm, Nitrites/Ammonia are 0, PH is 8.3, Alk is
4.5 (This is a tad high), <Assuming units in meq/L, that Alk is
fine.> and Cal is 340 (a bit low). The high Alk seems to be the
result of Kalk dosing which I just started 2 weeks ago. My Alk has risen
(used to be 3), PH has risen 0.1, but Cal has remained unchanged. I'll
be adding Reef Calcium from Seachem to bring the Cal number up.
Hopefully this will balance the alk/cal figures a bit. <Generally
I'm a fan of SeaChem, but I don't know about their "Reef Calcium." It
says it's "bioavailable polygluconate complexed calcium." Which to me
means that it's some kind of organic calcium. You want inorganic
calcium. So please find some calcium chloride. This should lower your
alk and raise your Ca levels. But add this carefully. You don't want
your alk to plummet either. ;) > I also just started dosing Magnesium
about 1 week ago. Readings were at 900 before, now at 1125. I've just
bought some Selcon to replace my Kent Zoe as a food additive. My
question is regarding the feeding of the SPS corals. If I am able to
complete my setup, this would consist of 3 SPS corals. M. Capricornis,
M. Digitata and the Acropora ( I don't think the Echinophyllia is an
SPS). <The term "sps" is probably meaningless anyway.> I
understand that these SPS corals will consume zooplankton as
supplemental feeding. I have no room for a gravity fed refugium, and
fear that feeding the Eric Borneman recipe may pollute my tank over
time. <Why? I'd stick with this recipe. It's a good one. Just take
care in its preparation. Soak what he says to soak and make sure you
chop, mince and blend well. You can pollute your tank with too much of
any kind of food. Oyster eggs are also great for "sps" corals.> I've
had nuisance algae issues before that I'd want to avoid like the plague.
Even if it didn't pollute my tank, aren't the particle sizes much too
large for SPS corals? <Not if you add oyster eggs and blend well.
Yes, you'll have some chunks that are way too big for sps. But you'll
also get a lot of very fine food particles too.> I've read on your
site that feeding bottled zooplankton like Sweetwater, or Liquid Life
Marine/Bio Plankton is not enough, and that Cyclopez (sp?) is too large.
<Cyclop-Eeze is great and I recommend using it for your other corals and
your fish. But it will likely be too big for your sps corals.> Is it
worth using my pump driven refugium to try growing zooplankton? Or
will the pump just demolish everything? <This is probably more a
matter of opinion. I think a pump driven refugium is an excellent thing
to have, but it's not necessary for the most common types of sps sold
for aquariums.> Will a combination of Selcon, Sweetwater Zooplankton
and Liquid Life do the trick? <Hmm... I'd stick with the Selcon.
Liquid life BioPlankton is pretty useless for feeding corals. Sps corals
don't eat algae. Liquid life coral plankton has rotifers and algae.
Corals do eat rotifers. I'm not sure if they eat dead rotifers as much
as live rotifers, but it probably wouldn't hurt to add them to the mix.
The same goes for Sweetwater Zooplankton. The listed ingredients look
like things that corals would certainly eat if they were alive. How much
corals will feed on these things after they've been collected and
packaged, I'm not sure anyone knows for certain. Lee Goldman recently
conducted a study that supports the notion that at least some corals
have a strong preference for live food. If you really want to do right
by your corals, culture Artemia nauplii and feed them live to your tank.
I'm a huge fan of the hatching disk sold by Brine Shrimp Direct. It just
makes it so easy.> What are the chances that my tank has enough
"stuff" in it to self support the food needs of these SPS? <Hard to
say. But even if they could get enough to just survive, they'd probably
do better if you fed them.> If there is a chance, do I wait until the
corals to display unhealthy symptoms as a sign to start supplemental
feeding? <Look, you don't need to specifically feed them a separate
set of foods. Just keep them in mind when you mix up the food you make
for the whole tank. Add some oyster eggs and blend the food well.> If
I need to feed, what should I feed these 3 corals? and how often?
I've read your site extensively on this topic, and have not come up with
a clear answer to this question. <This is a hotly debated topic in
our hobby and everyone will likely give you a different answer. However,
given what's known about how much food is available to corals in the
wild, I can't imagine that they don't need to be fed in our tanks. My
suggestion to you is to use Borneman's recipe (with the oyster eggs he
also suggests). All this should feed your fish and everything else too.
And if you can, culture some Artemia nauplii too.> Thanks a ton! My
tank is so satisfying to my family and friends. I owe many thanks to the
great service you provide. <De nada. Thanks for writing. Best,
Sara M.> Wayne Monti Feeding Hello
Bob and Crew: I was looking for your advice for target feeding my
only SPS a Montipora capricornis (my favorite). I lost a Hydnophora. I
do not want to get into a refugium so I have been direct feeding ESV's
Phytoplankton and Daphnia. I have been considering Cyclop-eeze, is that
too big? I tried to find liquid life's Coral Plankton but it's not
anywhere (LFS) and I do not want to pay $25. for overnight shipping. I
would appreciate any suggestions, I love this coral and want to do all I
can (besides refugium).<Rich, I've heard a lot of good things about
Cyclop-eeze. I am using it at the present time, mainly for my Percs,
but my soft coral sure seems to be looking better since I've been using
this. Other product that is good for this is DT's Phytoplankton. You
might call around in your area for this, otherwise you will have to
order direct from DT. They tell me if you keep it refrigerated it has a
shelf life close to six months. Keep in mind this is live
phytoplankton. I don't think DT would charge you 25 bucks to send it to
you, just normal UPS charges unless you want it overnight. I wouldn't
worry about the Monti while waiting since corals do produce most of
their own food. James (Salty Dog> Thanks for the help! Rich
Feeding and nutrients for across Great site! Thanks for all the
help. My questions are as follows: what nutrients, other than
calcium and bicarbonate, would you recommend for the healthy growth
of across? Secondly, what food would you feed your across and at what
amount and time? Thirdly, is feeding essential? Again thanks for the
great info.
Joey <Please
read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/corlfdgfaqs.htm and
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acropt3.htm and the Related FAQs
(linked, in blue, at top). Bob Fenner> Coral feeding I
was reading through the site today and discovered the section on feeding
corals. I looked on with stupidity because my LFS has always told me
that they get everything they need from light. <It was probably a
mistake and it happens.> I have to admit I am still not sure how to
feed my corals. I bought some frozen Mysis shrimp, but now what? I have
never even seen sweeper tentacles. I have a frogspawn a torch, and a
xenia, any suggestions as to how I should feed them (turkey baster
method, etc.) or what to feed them (zoo/phytoplankton) is greatly
appreciated. EY <Hello, well you are on the right track from
what I see. Knowledge is power. You should feed based on the needs of
your corals. The frogspawn, and torch will probably take the Mysis
depending on size. The best time to feed them is at night using the
baster method. The xenia will take the phytoplankton. I want you to
remember this. Although you should be feeding your corals, a big
beginner mistake is to over feed them when they first start. Start
feeding little amounts and work your way from there. Good Luck. MikeB.>
Monti Feeding II Hello Crew,<Hey,> On the following response
to a question that I asked I am a little confused. I have read on your
site that Phytoplankton is not very useful with SPS corals. <There
are pro's and con's to using this product. Basically, there could be
better food sources out there, such as refugiums. But, in a bind DT's
can get the job done if used correctly. Let me stress the word
CORRECTLY.> So I question the recommendation of DT's Phytoplankton.
I have found BioLife's Coral Plankton and the SPS's seems to eat it
(Polyps Expand), I am not sure about the particle size of Cyclop-eeze
and will also add the DT's if it is eaten. Otherwise, I look at it as
algae food. I do like to feed as much of a variety as possible since I
do not want to get into a refugium. Also this is becoming a SPS tank
eventually (my favorite) however I do have BTA's with very happy Clowns
and one Galaxea, is this a problem? Thank you for all the help!
Rich <Rich, the BTA will be a problem eventually and so will the
Galaxy coral. They will sting and bother the SPS corals. The problem
with feeding food for the SPS corals is that people generally feed too
much to the tank. This then causes a spike in water quality and
degradation of the corals. I would remove the BTA and the Galaxy coral
to another tank if you want to keep the SPS corals long term. Also, use
what ever phytoplankton you decide that works best in moderation. Good
Luck. MikeB.> Monti Feeding III Hello Mike, Thanks for
the reply. The way that I have been feeding my SPS's is to stop all
pumps for an hour or so and target feed just enough food to cloud the
general area around the coral. I do this twice a week. I think that this
is minimal pollution and hopefully (?) enough nutrition for the coral.
How does that sound to you? Thanks again for the advice! Rich
<Rich, your method sounds fine. I wouldn't consider the food as
pollution though. It will provide the sustenance your corals and
microfauna will need. Keep it up!!! MikeB.>
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