What Could Be Wrong? (Mysterious Coral Death)  11/23/08
Hi Eric,
<<Hello Michael>>
Hope you are well, down in South Carolina.
<<Its a bit chilly at the moment (40s), but otherwise fine>>
Christmas is around the corner. Are you ready for it?
<<Nope [grin]>>
Well this time it is not a fish problem. They seem to be doing fine, except for two Banggai Cardinal, who don't seem to love one another, so I guess I have to remove one of them.
<<Very common with this species>>
But this time it is more of a "coral problem" so to speak. Well at least, I think so. I have just lost a leather coral (Cladiella sp.) And I am trying to figure out why. I don't have that many corals in my tank. I bought most of them without knowing much about them.
<<Not too late to learn>>
But the latest coral I added to the tank was almost a year ago, before I knew anything about WetWebMedia (phew). Since then I have come to understand that the mixture I have could cause trouble.
<<Ah>>
So there is "plenty of room� between them. I have Galaxea, Bubble coral, Open brain, Lobophyllia, Euphyllia Paradivisa (which have grown BIG) Kenya Tree, an Acropora, Candy Cane coral (which is also expanding much).
<<An aggressive and noxious mix indeed but very common among the majority of hobbyists>>
But until recently everything was fine. Some time ago the leather Coral seemed to start to shrink and then it started to dissolve.
<<Likely a reaction to allelopathy>>
The latest test results showed the following: Nitrite 0, Nitrate, 0-1, pH 8.3 Ca, 410 Mg 1390, Phosphate 0, and Ammonium 0. I have also started to get a little bit of algae. I do a 3 gallon water change every week
<<You might need to increase this>>
(RO water) and top of with pH adjusted RO water. I thought the light could be the problem. I changed my HQI bulb in May, but for some reason it stopped working in July. They did not have a brand new of the one I use (250 W 14000 Kelvin) but they had one in one of their lamps that they didn't use anymore, which I was told was almost new. I went into the store today, to talk with the owner; he told me that the bulb was from February/March, so when I bought it in July it wasn't exactly new when I bought it. Could this be the culprit?
<<I'm doubtful? Your problem is probably a chemical issue>>
The store manager told me it could be a lack of trace elements (I do not add anything except Calcium, and occasionally magnesium, and on a rare occasion iodine).
<<Your weekly water changes should take care of any trace element issues this too is not the/a problem>>
I use Tropic Marin salt for water changes.
<<An excellent salt mix>>
I do have some bottles of "Trace Hard" and "Trace Soft" from Salifert, but I don't use them.
<<And probably don't need to>>
I have only used them a few times, but after I read Bob's book I have refrained from them. The manager loaned me a new bulb, to try and see if that was the problem. In a way that will be the easy solution, but the bulb costs $100. But what are your thoughts Eric? Please let me know.
<<Well Michael, based on your info here all I can suggest at this point is that you add/increase your chemical filtration. Some carbon and or Poly-Filter, with a bit larger weekly water change, should help somewhat with the chemical war-fare being waged in your system>>
Thanks,
Take care my friend,
Michael Fick
<<Always welcome mate. Eric Russell>>

Re: What Could Be Wrong? (Mysterious Coral Death) � 11/23/08
Hi Eric,
<<Hello Michael>>
Just done some more testing the Ca was wrong it is 360, and dKH is 13.
<<Alkalinity is a tad bit high but should be okay with this Calcium reading>>
I use Tropic Marin calcium 3 times a week (Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday) but it does seem to drive dKH a bit up. Ca level lies between 350-420 during the week. If I don't dose calcium it slips below 300.
<<I see? This is a good company and good product. The dosing/these values are not what malaffected the coral>>
If you would like additional info don't hesitate to ask.
Michael
<<I still just think you need to step up water changes and chemical filtration. EricR>>

R2: What Could Be Wrong? (Mysterious Coral Death)  11/23/08
Hi Eric,
<<Michael>>
Sorry for yet another email, but new things come to mind.
<<No problem my friend>>
I never use buffer up when I do water changes, and the buffer I use for calcium and magnesium is added in the evening when all lights are out.
Michael
<<No problem here as well. EricR>>R3: What Could Be Wrong? (Mysterious Coral Death) � 11/23/08>
Hi Eric,
<<Hiya Michael>>
As always thanks for your reply.
<<My pleasure>>
I use carbon every 4 weeks, which I run for 3 days.
<<A good methodology? But perhaps a two week schedule would serve better>>
Should I step up the water changes to 5 gallons per week?
<<At least, yes? Or even go to a 10% volume change every two weeks, opposite the carbon use. Cheers mate, Eric Russell>>
P.S So the temperature is in the 40 degrees.
<<Mmm, is 30F now (11pm here)? Lower than normal, though we could also see 70F for a day or two after the cold front passes? But I still wish I was in Kona?>>
Your are lucky, in Denmark it is minus 3 degrees Celsius right now. In the night it gets down to minus 6 degrees Celsius
<<Ah yes, perpetual ice and snow now, eh? Ophold varmt min ven, EricR>>

Small SW env. issues, photo-shock of Cnid.s    8/12/08
Hello, before I even start I want to thank you guys for helping me out. I read on this site regularly and it is very helpful. I have a 36 gallon corner tank that has been set up for about a year. 45lbs live rock, 3-4" sandbed, Aqua C Remora skimmer, 4 Hydor Koralia #1 powerheads, and a Marineland canister filter,
<Mmmm>
weekly 10% water changes, good husbandry. Approx. 15 species of coral
<! In this small volume?>
mostly LPS and softies. LPS include (2 Caulastrea, 1 large Favia, 1 Euphyllia- sold as a hammer, Duncan, 2 suns), mushrooms, leather, green star polyps, colt, and several different zoo's. All except 1 candy cane doing exceptional.
<-ly>
Recently I had one of my light fixtures decide to self destruct, it was a 130w Coralife PC fixture. Immediately I ordered a 4-bulb 96w nova extreme T5 online to replace it. However while I was waiting for it to arrive, I only had 1- 48w nova extreme T5 H.O. and 1- 36w nova extreme T5 on the tank.. knowing this was not enough light, I watched the corals closely and was hoping that they would endure while I waited for my new light. (during this time I fed daily with marine snow, reef-roids and coral vitalizer) They looked ok, not great, for a week. My new light arrives and like a total rookie excited to try it out, I fire it up without acclimating the corals to the light. Now my favourite candy cane is sloughing off one of it's heads. It is a large green candy cane with about 15 heads and has done exceptionally well until just recently. With all of this said, a few questions.
Am I right in assuming that the over-illumination is most likely the cause for this tissue sloughing in an otherwise healthy tank?
<Yes... along with the previous week of low lighting>
Should I attempt to remove the head or tissue because it is hanging down about an inch (would be almost impossible because it is right in the middle of the coral) - or - If I just leave it, can it recover?
<It can... I would leave as is... unless you have a well-established system/area to move it to elsewise... I would only remove the tissue if it becomes obviously necrotic (likely falling off)>
The only thing I test anymore on this tank is Calcium and Alkalinity, because it has been stable for so long. So I won't give you all the values, however I can provide them if you think it's relevant. I really don't want to lose this coral so I hope you can lead me in the right direction.
Thanks from Canada,
Torry
<I would pre-mix and have stored about as much new seawater as you can... clean out the mechanical media in the canister filter (in seawater) and add a unit of Chemipure or equivalent to it. Bob Fenner>

Garlic 5/18/08
Garlic and Corals-Recipe for Trouble?
Hi All:
Can one of you tell me if garlic is toxic to corals?
Thanks,
RB
<Interesting question. As far as I know there is no documented toxicity issue with garlic and corals. The theory behind the use of corals is that allycin, the chemical compound found in fresh garlic, has long been known to have some anti-parasitic properties. Although I do not consider it an effective "cure" for parasitic maladies, it may be It is thought that this stuff works with fishes because it may mask parasites' chemoreceptors with its partially sulfurous chemical signature. There is, however, no apparent danger to corals or their symbiotic algae. Besides, you are typically adding garlic extracts via food, and much is probably processed by the fishes. However, I would not overdo this stuff, as it does cause protein skimmers to accumulate an oily film in the collection cup, and acquire that wonderful garlic aroma (which is actually preferable to my skimmer's typical smell). If you're going to use garlic, use per the manufacturer's directions, and simply don't overdo it. Hope this helps! Regards, Scott F.>

Coral Extension 04/07/2008
Hi Crew,
<<Hello, Andrew today>>
First off thank you for the great web site as I work at a locally owned pet store and in the fish department I am continually referring customers to your web site for set up and random questions that we at the store don't know the answer to.
<<All sounds great>>
Now I find that I must take my own advice and ask you a question;
<<Ok>>
I have a 29 gallon oceanic bio cube set up for saltwater for just about a full year now and for the past 2 or 3 months none of my few corals that I have are extended. My tank set up and parameters are as follows in the 1st filter chamber I have a custom built protein skimmer that runs on a lime wood diffuser, in the 2nd chamber layers of sponges decreasing in size then occasionally some activated carbon.
<<Ensure maintenance is strict with all these sponges. Wash weekly, change sections monthly, and wash filter media in used tank water>>
I have about 25 lbs of live rock in the tank and about 20 lbs of live sand. As for lighting I replaced the power compact lights about 4 months ago and about 2 months ago added 2 of the current usa powerbrite high output 50/50 LED strips in the hood as well. The photoperiod is 13 hours with 30 minutes of just the actinic and the LEDs on either side of the day light.
<<Suggest dropping the lighting period. 8 hours per day is more than enough>>
My water parameters to me all look fine ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate are constantly 0, ph is 8.2, calcium is 460 ppm, KH is 8 dKH, my salinity is a little high at about 1.026,
<<That's ok at 1.026>>
and the temp is kept at a constant 80.2 degrees. My only fish inhabitants are 2 tomato clownfish and 1 Foxface Rabbitfish , I know he will get to big I have a 80 to move him up to, and i have probably 5 hermits crabs and a piece of newly added dragon's breath. My corals are only a purple mushroom, a branching hammer coral, a closed brain, and some star polyps, if I remember correctly they are white (see its been that long since they have been open). The supplements that I add on a weekly basis are API Strontium, Iodine, I add calcium or purple up as needed to raise the calcium levels and I also add Coral Accel.
<<Corals are probably white due to bleaching. Maybe change the location in the tank, up higher. Stop adding all the trace elements and only add what shows as a deficiency on a test kit. Certainly stop adding Purple up, iodine and Coral Accel and Strontium. Trace elements will be replenished via water changes, 10% per week. Calcium, well, that depends on the uptake, and your test kit will tell you if this needs to be added or not>>
My corals that I had haven't opened up like I said in about 2 or 3 months and the star polyps, which are new because I thought the others were dead, haven't opened up at all. They are at about mid level in the tank with the exception of the brain which is on the sand.
<<Does the brain let out tentacles at night after lights off? Could be suffering a lighting deficiency here>>
My mushroom actually decided that it wanted to jump off of my rock and now I suspect that it is dead. Is there anything that you can possibly think of that might be causing all of this?
<<Lighting is one possibility as you don't mention how many watts are on the tank. A chemical overdose is another stronger possibility from the elements you have been adding, hence stop using them>>
Steven
<<Thanks for the questions, hope this helps. A Nixon>>

QT of corals -03/27/08
Hi,
I plan on buying a mushroom coral and a toadstool coral to add to my tank. I would like to put them in QT for about one month. I have read the articles on QT of inverts on WWM and feel I am prepared. However, I have a question about lighting. I have a 20G long QT tank that I can light with three standard AGA fluorescent strip lights about 20W each. I believe they come standard with 8800K or 9250K bulbs. Will this be sufficient and is the K. alright for these corals?
<This depends on the lighting under which you plan to ultimately put them (in your display). Ideally, the QT lighting should be similar to the lighting over the ultimate destination of the corals. As for the K values, yes, typically aquarists use bulbs with K values ranging from 6500 to 20000.>
Thanks
<Best,
Sara M.>

Sick mushroom coral and bubble coral... no reading, use of WWM    2/19/08
I've had my mushroom coral for a month and it was doing fine - always spread out and looking happy - up until yesterday. Yesterday when I looked at my tank the mushroom and the small rock it sits on had fallen off the bigger rock they sit on and fell face down in the sand.
<Oooh>
I picked it up as soon as possible and put it back on the rock. Its been a bit shriveled ever since, and now it is completely shriveled up and looks like it has a tear in it with lots of tiny white things in the tear.
<Not good>
My bubble coral has also been ill for about a week. Some parts of it look fine whilst others are shriveled and also look torn, and it usually has one of its mouths wide open. Am I supposed to be feeding it?
<... Yes!>
I don't know what it eats.
<My friend... why are you writing us? This is posted. Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/caryfdgfaqs.htm>
What do you think is wrong with it? I did a water change yesterday and I don't think the salt was fully dissolved when I put the new water in and both the bubble and mushroom gave off a cobweb-like substance. Would that have had anything to do with it?
<Keep reading. Learn to/use the indices, search tool on WWM...>
I add marine snow
<Worthless. Worse than worthless... Of no nutritive value whatsoever>
and calcium to my water, and use a sand with extra calcium in it. But I have not been able to measure my calcium levels as my LFS hasn't had any in since I bought the bubble coral.
My water parameters = Ammonia - 3.6, Nitrate - less than 5, Nitrite - less than 0.1, pH - 7.5-8.0, copper - 0
<... keep reading. Bob Fenner>

Snow storm... Phosphate removal rxn on Cnid.s    1/3/08
Hi Crew,
Small 10 gallon saltwater tank.
I bought a filter pad that is made for reducing phosphates. I was able to cut out two pieces to match my filter. I put in the first one almost 8 weeks ago and it did a good job. I hardly have any hair algae left. The water was not going through so easily so I just replaced it with the second pad and I noticed white flecks coming out of the filter. By morning I had what looked like the aftermath of a snow storm. The part of the tank directly in front of the filter was covered in white. Sand and mushrooms and candy canes.
<Mmm, these need some soluble phosphate...>
The mushrooms were closing up. I contacted the seller and after convincing them it was not pods they said it may be some of the phosphate remover from the pad.
<Maybe>
How important is it to remove from the tank.
<I would>
They did not think it was much of an issue other than to remove from the corals. I rinsed it well before I put it in the tank so I do not know why this pad was different than the first being that they both are from one big pad.
<I don't think "it" is the pad per se, but a reaction/series from the pad... the life...>
Anyway the main concern is will it harm anything by staying on the sand.
Thanks
<I would remove the new pad. Bob Fenner>

Corals suddenly wilted! A joke? No useful data, or reading   12/12/07
so. This happened a couple days ago and finally finished yesterday. I came home to look @ my tank and saw that all of my hairy mushrooms, my branching hammer coral and another branching polyp coral had all suddenly wilted and looked dead. Around the rock where the hairy mushrooms were, a cloudy milky white ooze was covering the rock and some of the mushrooms were completely gone. The other 2 corals were near it seem to be affected by what ever happened. The rest of the corals and fish in the tank seem to be ok. What happened?! Can they be saved or should I say a prayer for them now... I have already pulled them out of the tank and put them in a bucket with a heater and fresh saltwater...
please help!
~mike
<Uhh, can't tell you much from the data presented... no information re your system, water quality, foods/feeding... What you list can't all be simply jammed in together in a small volume though. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and the linked files above... And soon... your system is crashing. Bob Fenner>

Re: Corals suddenly wilted! - 12/13/07
Im sorry. I didn't know what other information to provide. This is definitely not a joke. The affected corals were together in harmony for
quite some time before this happened. Over 3 months. When the water was tested, everything was ok. PH was slightly low, but nothing to be alarmed about. (between 7.9 & 8.0).
<Too low...>
This is all in a 24g nano cube with ample space between them.
<No...>
Everything is fed daily, using Spirulina and some frozen mysis shrimp. What other data can I provide to help?
<... please don't write, read where you were referred to... and soon. BobF>

Candy cane/ torch coral loss, help please!  8/23/07
Hi Crew,
I have a 37 gallon salt water reef tank. My nitrates are in the o.k. range, and my filtration system is (2) 50 gallon aqua clear filters, lighting is coral life, 30in 130 watt fixture, (1) T-5 30in 36 watt fixture, salinity perfect, 50 lbs of live rock.
I have torch coral that shrivels, falls apart, dies one head at a time, (no brown slime). I also have been battling red algae (with frequent water changes & rock cleaning) which seems to also be on the stem of the torch coral.
<These events may be related...>
I do maintain an arsenal of snails in the tank. How can I salvage what is left of my torch coral??
<Break off the living heads, or the dead ones... move the live part/s to another system>
I also have candy cane coral which appears to have some sort of pale yellow calcified growths with one small tube protruding out per growth. The growth surrounds the base of the heads and at this point I have lost 3. The growth is starting to appear on the live rock at various points in the tank. What should I do to save the rest of my coral and do I need to eradicate the growth, and if so, how??
Thanks, JP
<"Frag momma frag, whatcha gonna do?" Need to discern what the real/root cause/s of the trouble in this one system is/are... and fix... "Small systems are hard to keep stable, optimized"... Perhaps a cursory reading on WWM re toxic tanks will bring something live to your consciousness. Bob Fenner>

Corals seriously have something against my tank!!!  8/23/07
SORRY- LONG STORY
I have a 75 gal, 260W PC lighting and about 45 lbs of live rock in tank that was established for 8 months. I had several fish in there and everything was doing great. The only problem I ever had with it was I couldn't get my nitrate levels down. They always hung around 30-40.
<From?>
I finally decided to get some button polyps and some mushrooms. I had them in my tank for a week or so and they were both all closed up and didn't look like they even wanted to open any time soon. I called the LFS and they said it could just be acclimation.
<Yes>
Finally after 3 weeks, I actually put them in my wife's tank that is a little 12 Gal setup that was established for about 5 months at the time. Everything started coming to life. She has a 32W PC light in her tank. Her water parameters were pretty much the same as my tank.
<Mmmm, no>
I then tried putting them back in my tank a couple weeks later after they were pretty much flourishing in her tank. They did not open up once in my tank and I gave it a week and back in her tank they went. They literally started opening up the same day they went in her tank ( the jerks).
<Heeee!>
Now, (many months gone by) since then I have completely redone my tank. I have about 90Lbs of live rock in there, Metal halide lighting, added a whole sump system with a good AquaC EV-90 protein skimmer and waited almost two months till everything was stable. I even use RO water now and have no problem with nitrates since I found my tap water was pretty much the whole source of them.
I finally decided to add those corals again and they haven't opened up in the past 5 days they have been in there. I even put them at the bottom a little bit
shadowed from the new more intense lighting so they didn't get a lighting shock. I also have two Aquaclear 50 powerheads and a dual outlet return from a Mag 9 pump for water flow/circulation. I have one cinnamon clown and a few hermit crabs in it at this time. I am at a total loss for what is going on... and these are supposed to be some of the easiest corals to keep!!! I had to put them back in her tank today as the mushrooms were so shriveled up, a couple almost looked non-existent. Do you have any idea what is going on!?!!? what else I could check for?
<This reads like some sort of biological "poisoning"... likely an algae, bacteria... of some sort (my bets on a BGA) is "hogging" this system by toxifying it for other photosynthates...>
Currently my tank parameters are as follows:
Salinity - 1.023
<I'd raise this to 1.026>
Temp - 83
PH - 8.3
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 10
Both mine and her tanks are virtually identical water parameters. We even use same water and the same salt. I don't know of any other parameters that could effect corals that bad that quick. I have learned the hard way that you cannot take shortcuts on anything because you will at some point see a negative effect from it, to have patience and to quarantine EVERYTHING. Now I have spent all this money on all new sump/filtration, lighting, twice as much live rock, an RO unit for the purest water and I still can't even keep the easiest corals out there.
Any input would greatly be appreciated!
Thanks in advance.
Josh
<Mmm, well... a few things might be tried... the use of a couple pounds of good quality carbon (perhaps a pad of Polyfilter to see if there is color/metal contamination at play here)... Perhaps the modification of the sump, to make it live... a refugium... with an added DSB... See WWM re conversions... Otherwise time, succession itself should fix this... in months to years. Bob Fenner>

Re: Corals seriously have something against my tank!!!   e- 8/24/07
Thank you so much for your response. I am definitely going to use a filter with carbon to eliminate any possibilities with that.
I have been brain storming with some other people the past few days and one suggested about stray voltage. I checked that last night with a few minutes I had to spare and found that with my digital meter I saw 30 volts between the water and ground.
<Mmm... this IS a bunch... I would check BOTH the polarity AND ground/neutrals of all appurtenant electrics here... AND make sure they are all wired through a GFCI>
I have 2 mag pumps, 2- AquaClear pumps and one penguin pump. As I said, I didn't have much time to experiment, but as I unplugged different pumps, it seemed like most of them were contributing to the voltage.
<Common>
These pumps are in pristine condition (other than stuff growing on them of course) and are less than a year old. Is this a common problem?
<Yes... and to some degree spurious... moving a charged body in space makes... electricity... and vice versa>
I want to do some more experimenting with that tonight and see if and how much voltage is in my wife's tank and also if there is any real threat from it from being a relatively high current source or just kind of "empty voltage" so to speak. I have had a couple people say about a grounding probe.
<Nah... not for now...>
While it would pull the voltage to ground, if there is any real current behind it, I would feel sorry for anything that got in the path between whatever pump is leaking the most current and that grounding probe.
<?, actually... perhaps a concern... but not w/o a bunch of amperage here>
I am assuming the smaller pumps (double insulated non-grounded pumps) are the ones leaking the most since the Mags are grounded. What is your experience on this kind of thing? There is not much info out there when I did searches for it.
thanks again for all the help, this site is truly a life saver!
Josh
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/index.htm
Scroll down to the pink tray... BobF>

Soft Coral handling...   6/5/07
Hi, I was wondering about how to handle soft corals in the tank when moving rocks and coral to new location within the tank.
<Mmmm>
I have a Flower Pot 5" and at neon green start Polyp. when moving the star fell and hasn't come back out fully. Could I have Killed it or dose it just take time to recover from a fall? Thanks a lot!!!!
Morgan
<... well, neither of these is a Soft Coral... But what you seek is likely posted... Please peruse here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm
The groups you're interested in... Stoloniferans/Clavulariids, Poritids/Goniopora... Systems, Compatibility, Health... Bob Fenner>

Coral Quarantine?   6/5/07
Hello Crew,
<Hi there! Scott F. here tonight!>
Thank you (again) for your extraordinary web site. After pouring over your articles and FAQ's for countless hours, I managed to build a 135 gallon reef setup which was specifically designed as an SPS system. The system includes an Ecosystem 3616 mud sump (with Chaetomorpha) which I hope will provide supplemental food to the SPS.
<Chaetomorpha certainly can help export nutrients and provide a home for incidental planktonic growth, which is a supplemental food source for many corals.>
I added the following fish and invertebrates gradually, over a period of about a year and a half with the goal of keeping the environment stable and nuisance algae free.
Fish - Purple Firefish, Neon Goby, Bicolor Blenny, Flame Angelfish and Sunrise Pseudochromis.
<Nice mix of colorful, active fishes!>
Invertebrates - Two cleaner shrimp, Tuxedo Urchin, Mushrooms and the following live rock stowaways - Zoanthids, Green Star polyps, assorted sponges, clams and a still un-identified stony coral .
<Neat>
I am ready to introduce SPS into the system and recently purchased two very small (about 1-1/2 inch) specimens; a Montipora plate coral and a Stylophora (both aquacultured and well acclimated to high MH light levels). They are currently in a ten gallon quarantine tank under a 150 watt HQI pendant. The tank is well cycled and includes an "aged" sponge filter.
<A great quarantine setup>
I have felt "the pain of Ick" in the past and faithfully employ a 4-6 week quarantine on all new specimens (especially fish) before introduction into the display. I believe this is perhaps the single most important thing one can do to maintain a healthy display.
<I wholeheartedly agree!>
Now for my question - should the same quarantine protocol apply to SPS? Is there a trade off between getting the coral into the more "stable" display ASAP versus the risk of potential pathogens? Or would you recommend keeping the 4 week (minimum) quarantine?
<Great question, and I would have to say, yes. Many hobbyists disagree, yet some employ varying degrees of quarantine. With the potential for coral pathogens and pests (the infamous "red bugs" you hear so much about), it's very important to employ a quarantine protocol. With good lighting, water flow, and some supplemental feeding, there should be very little trade off, IMO. An excellent practice to get into.>
Assuming I need to keep the SPS in a full term quarantine, would you recommend some type of supplemental feeding? I am concerned the supplemental feeding would cause more harm than good (in terms of generating a nitrate source).
<Valid concerns, but water changes are an ally, of course. I wrote a brief article on just this topic a few years back here on WWM: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/quarinverts.htm . Perhaps it addresses some of your concerns.>
Thanks in advance for your reply.
Scott
<My pleasure! I commend you on your employment of quarantine, and encourage you to share your experiences on this practice with fellow hobbyists! regards, Scott F.>

Re: Coral Quarantine (Pt. 2) 6/6/07
Scott,
Thanks so much for your reply. I will plan on a 30 day quarantine for these corals.
<An excellent practice- I know that you'll benefit from it!>
At the risk of sounding like a pest, I wonder if I can ask a follow up question.
<Absolutely not! How dare you. Just kidding- ask away!>
As I mentioned previously, I hope to provide for the long term feeding requirements of these SPS through the use of an Ecosystem 3616 Mud filter. It has a nice growth of Chaetomorpha which is pretty full of amphipods and I recently introduced a couple of large pieces of fresh (after 6 weeks quarantine) live rock to the mud bed to stimulate additional growth and "seed" the mud..
<Sounds nice>
Additionally, my system has two very oversized overflows which I figure add about 30+ gallons of "fishless" water volume to the mud filter.
<Excellent...it does increase your system's overall water volume, to your advantage.>
So I am hoping I might be able to use the water from the display tank to help feed these two SPS while they are in quarantine. I normally do small and frequent water changes in the display (just easier for me to do it this way) and plan to change out one to two gallons of water from the quarantine tank with water from the display.
<Great procedure. Since this is the water that the corals will be residing in ultimately, this is a perfect call, IMO. Do those small water changes frequently in the quarantine tank, too.>
Based on your knowledge/experience, do you think this will keep these critters for healthy during the quarantine, or should I consider supplementation. I have a product called ZoPlan which says that is good for SPS.
<I would definitely feed. I've used "Coral Plankton" by Liquid Life as a coral feed for stonies for some years, and have been happy with it. There are other feeds out there, as well.>
I also normally feed my display with frozen Mysis, which is soaked in either Selcon or VitaChem - I typically dispose of the pack water/soak but would consider adding it to the QT if this makes sense. Would you kindly advise your thoughts on this.
<Interestingly enough, this is a potential use for the packing juices. However, you do want to keep a close eye on the water quality and execute frequent small water changes to keep it high.>
Thanks again for the invaluable resource you folks provide to novices such as myself.
Scott
<It's our honor to be of service! Best of luck in your efforts! Regards, Scott F.>

Xenia and Coral Bleaching?   4/21/07
Hi Crew, My Xenia has been doing great since I got it 4 months ago.  Just today when I came home from work I noticed a huge part of the Xenia was bleached white!  In the morning everything looked great so this just happened over the last couple of hours.  It looks like it started at the base of the stalk and worked it's way towards the arms.  Arms have been falling off at the base since then and they are still pumping!.  My water parameters are: Nitrates ~20,
<High>
pH 8.2 a.m.-8.3 p.m. and Alkalinity of 9.  I recently had extremely high nitrates for around 2 weeks (>100!)
<This... or what the cause of "it" are "is" the trouble...>
because of a massive die off of Mexican turbo snails (30 of them) because of temperature, and I couldn't find them all ( my tank is ~700gal.)  I've gotten the nitrates down with 25% water changes every 3 days and my temp is holding steady at 81 degrees.  Is this Coral Bleaching or some sort of pathogen?
<The former is a symptom... not a disease per se... "caused" by a myriad of factors... Likely a pathogen is NOT involved here... but the previous chemical anomaly... Having fixed the environment, you have only time to tell what will happen next... I would bolster the biota's immune system with a vitamin and HUFA administration (Selcon or like) and likely step up the Iodine/ide use (with testing). Bob Fenner>
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Sean
<You can read re these issues on WWM...>

Coral Health and Lack of Info - 3/24/07
I'm having a problem with a couple of my corals.
<Ok, I'll see if I can help.>
The Euphyllia ancora and Euphyllia divisa that I have don't seem to be expanding as they did a few weeks ago. They seem a little pale and not as large as a few weeks ago.
<But still expanding?>
I've tried moving them around the tank but no change.
<How long did you allow between moves? Most corals will stay in a retaliatory state after being moved, for typically at least a day or 2.>
I also have a Pulsing Xenia that is acting up. The Xenia will not expand in the main tank but will in my refugium. Do you have any ideas on what I might try. Everything else in the tank is thriving.
<Everything else? How big of a tank is this, and what other coral species do you have? Sounds like allelopathy to me.>
I feed the corals with live baby brine shrimp,
<Aquatic potato chips -- replace this with Mysis shrimp. Even when brine shrimp are gut loaded, their nutritional value is extremely low.>
Phyto-Feast and Roti-Feast. Water quality is as follows:
pH-8.04
Salinity-32
Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate & Phosphate-Undetectable
Calcium-392
Alkalinity-3
Magnesium-1300
Iodine-.07
<Aside from the lack of information to thoroughly surmise the problem here, nothing jumps out at me. Likely the issue is an incompatible mix of coral life, chemically and physically competing with each other for space in your tank. Hope this helps! -JustinN>

Re: finger coral help  3/16/07
I did send a picture yes but can't find it on the site.
<Sorry Craig, I was unable to open the picture that arrived with your email.  You can try resending it.>
Have now fragged the coral got 2 of it.
<Excellent!>
Is it meant to be hardish in side and not soft ???
<Yes, is related to the sclerites which provide support to the tissue, and appear like snowflakes when the tissue degenerates.>
This is the first time I have cut a frag from coral.
<Congratulations!  Hopefully is not your last.  Keep fraggin!>  
Cheers Craig.
<And to you!  -Mich>

yellow polyps... toxic sys., incompatible mix of Cnid.s  3/6/07
Hey, i had a question about yellow polyps sea mat infections. I have had a 12 gallon reef for about 6 months now and one of the first pieces of coral I bought was a beautiful piece of yellow polyps, and i have slowly been adding a frag here and there.
<Dangerous in such small volumes>
The yellow polyps has slowly decline of there size and numbers. Now there are only a few polyps left and everything else in my tank is doing great.
tanks specs.
calcium- 430
ph- 9.2
<Way too high>
water temp.77 - 79
nitrites- none
ammonia- .3
<Toxic>
nitrates. - 20- 25
<Too high>
The polyps are in strong current flow and have nothing crawl on them but a cleaner shrimp. They are about 12 inches away from a 36 watt power compact 50-50 actinic and daylight. The other things in the tank are, a piece of LPS fairly close to it. Some green sea mats , xenia, button polyps, anemone and a clam.
There are no nudibranchs. i have noticed a long red polyp/worm like thing growing near them.
thank you for the time
Jake Damiano
<You have an incompatible mix of cnidarians in a toxic setting... Please see WWM re all the mentioned factors above and each species "Compatibility", "Systems". Bob Fenner>

Coral <sic> Health 3/3/07
Hi Guys,
<Hello Joe>
I have a 135 gallon Reef Tank that has been set up and running successfully for over 9 months.  Just three days ago, a large colt coral and a mushroom that were doing very well for over 6 months started to die.  The Colt Coral has all but withered away (In 3 Days!).  I noticed the mushrooms starting to detach in the past 24 hours.  What could be causing all these issues all of a sudden?  I haven't changed I do or added anything to the tank in several months (except a Coral Beauty 2 weeks ago. But he has shown no interest in any of the corals).
I do 25 % water changes every 30 days.
<Part of your problem may lie here.  I believe too much of a change in water parameters at once, especially if the water chemistry is not closely matched
to the display tank.  I'd rather see you with 5% weekly or 10% twice monthly.>
PH - 8.2
Ammonia and Nitrite zero
Calcium - 450-500
I use Kalkwasser for top off water (RO unit)
Once a week I add Kent's: Iodine, Strontium, Magnesium, Essential         Elements
I add Kent Calcium A & B daily
Lights are 3 - 150 watt Halides (about a year old) and 4 - 96 watt         Actinic Blue's.
<How old are the lamps, the color temperature may have shifted.  On another note, are there any cleaning sprays, etc, that are used in the area of the tank, ammonia based cleaners such as Windex?>
Protein Skimmer working fine I hate these "mystery" problems.  Any help you can give would be appreciated so I can avoid this problem moving forward.
<I'd check the water chemistry of the make-up water before you add the salt, may be something amiss here.>
Thanks,
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Joe

Re:  Coral Health 3/4/07
Thanks for the help. You mentioned testing the RO water before adding salt.
What should I be testing for?  Could I use my saltwater test equipment?
<If you have a local pure water store, I would take a sample of your RO water there and have it tested for total dissolved solids.  This will ensure that your RO unit is working properly.  Most importantly, ensure the water chemistry of the new mix is very close to the chemistry in the display tank.>
Thanks,
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Joe

Methylene Blue use with Coral 1/29/07
Is methylene blue safe for use with corals since it is not safe for inverts?
<I would not use it on corals. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/methblueart.htm >
<Chris>

Lighting Question 11/01/06
Hello,
<Greetings!>
I have a tank that is 8 years old. For the first 6 years, I had 4x96W PC bulbs and things were fine. I have mostly soft corals and a few hard corals like Pagoda, Red Brain and Bubble coral. I switched to retrofit 2x250 MH 14K lighting about a year and a half ago. I have since switched to 20K bulbs. In the past six months I have seen many of my corals die or look horrible, losing color and not opening up. The bulbs are 16" from water surface and my tank is 90G 24" deep. Is this too much light or not enough? I am really at odds with what to do. Many thanks.
Bryan
<Bryan – It sounds to me like the corals are not getting enough light.  Typically, the higher you go with bulbs color spectrum, the lower the PAR drops.  Ideally, the lights should be around 8 to 10 inches off the surface of the water.  I would lower your lights and see how that works.  If they are still dying, try switching to a lower Kelvin bulb.  Cheers! – Dr. J>

Corals shrinking and dying   10/8/06
Hello, love your FAQ site!
< Lots of good information! >
I have a 20g long reef with a home-made 5g refugium. Lighting is 150 HQI 14000k SunPod mounted via the supplied legs on tank. Tank has been up about 5 months.  Water params seem good: 0 nitrite 0 ammonia <5ppm nitrate 400ppm calcium 0 phosphate.  Have had a candy-cane, a small mushroom frag, and a xenia in the tank for a couple months, and all thriving and growing.  A couple of weeks ago, the xenia started shrinking, then the mushrooms shrunk and some died. The candy-cane is now looking stressed and not extending well.
< Have you checked the water for discoloration or Kelvins? It does sound like light is the problem. Maybe the water is filtering it? Drain some water into a bright white bucket and compare the color, water versus bucket. If it is discolored, the temporary use of some activated carbon will strip the Kelvins out. >
All inverts (blue-leg hermits, sand star, queen conch, emerald crab, Nassarius and astrea) doing great.  Have been changing 5g water every couple of days, started feeding Kent Zooplex the other day, hadn't been feeding corals, but there's lots of  copepods, etc from the refugium.  
No change in condition.
< Be sparing with liquid foods. >
Wondering about light, is this too much for a 12" depth, have a 29g I could transfer to.
< That would be a wonderful idea. Maybe upgrade to a twenty gallon refugium? >
Just having trouble putting my finger on the problem.
Any ideas?
< The only other possibility I can think of as I type is if the salinity were out of whack. Have you tested salinity using a calibrated refractometer? If it were too high, not only would the corals react in this manner, amazingly enough, elevated salinity can also filter light! Just a thought... RichardB  >
Thanks,
Jim Giddings

Re: coral concern- now in panic mode!  9/23/06
Good morning!  I'm writing back today regarding the same issue detailed below.  It's now been several weeks and no improvements that I can see.  I've continued to do 20 - 25% water changes 3 times a week.  My nitrates, nitrites and ammonia are all still at 0.  These have been at undetectable levels for months and months so I don't think that this is an issue here.  My salinity is at 1.025, temp at 77 degrees.  I've been changing my carbon 3 times a week and have completely removed the Chemi-pure after removing the Zoa's per your suggestion.  The zoas have been out of the tank for 12 days now with no change.  I'm beginning to wonder if that was ever the problem.  Correct me if I'm wrong here, but there are two small "baby" mushroom leathers growing at the base of the big mushroom leather that is the concern.  These babies are not affected at all.  Their tentacles are fully extended all day every day & this has never changed.  If this was an allelopathy issue with the zoas & mushroom leather... wouldn't the "babies" be affected too?  I would appreciate any suggestions that you might have.  I really am in panic mode.  Every day that the leather stays the same I get more and more worried.  I know it is suffering and I don't know what else to do.  I'm so sad about this.  I thought I was a consciences aquarist, but now not so sure...
Thank you in advance for your consideration, It is much appreciated!
Jaime
<<Jaime: I read through all your posts.  What type of lighting do you have and where is the leather placed in the tank?  What kind of what flow does it have around it?  Are there mushrooms nearby or upstream of the flow?  They usually don't like heavy flow.  In my tank, they don't like mushrooms nearby. Best of luck, Roy>>

Algaecide and Corals, a Bad Combination 7/16/06
Hello all,
<Hi>
I'm having some problems with my green star polyps.
<Lets see if we can help.>
I got them about a month ago, and they were THRIVING.  Marked difference since their addition to my tank.  I also have some yellow polyps, and green button polyps.
I have had a minor problem with algae, so I tried adding some Algone to my tank, in addition to some de nitrate from SeaChem.
<There is your problem.>
The day after adding the two, my green button polyps didn’t look as 'happy', and my green star polyps had not come out.  (I also removed my carbon, as per Algone directions).   I also added some Fluval prefilter  (if that helps). <Replace the carbon ASAP.> I waited 3 days, still no green star polyps (4-5 extend, but the other 300 stay in).  Thinking the Algone may be the problem, I removed it, and re-instated my carbon, leaving the de nitrate in.
<Remove all added chemicals ASAP.>
Its been 2 days since my removal of the Algone, the green star polyps have still not returned (green buttons back to normal, looking great).  In addition, the purple mat is looking worse every day, what can I do!
<Lots of water changes, run lots of carbon and get some PolyFilters if possible.>
Nothing else was altered (pH, salinity), and they were thriving until I added the Algone, so I’m convinced something other than water quality is involved (all specs good).
<Yes, toxic chemicals.>
Thanks as always,
Whit
<Anytime>
<Chris>

Chemical Warfare?...More Like Health/Water Quality Issues   6/27/06
Hello.
<Hello Jon>
I have a quick question.  I was wondering if using a PolyFilter would reduce the noxious compounds my corals and anemones are releasing to
the point where they would survive together.  Currently I have a Condy anemone, rock flower anemone, colt coral, frogspawn, Fungia plate, and
several less aggressive soft corals (xenias, mushrooms, zoos) in a 55 gallon, none of them are touching each other.  Right now my Condy is usually
shriveled up and my rock flower anemone is slightly shriveled. The frogspawn is out most of the way, but sometimes looks as if it's slightly shriveled
too.  If the PolyFilter is a ridiculous idea with no chance of working, which of these is the main problem and should be removed?  I'm thinking
maybe both anemones but wanted to check with you first.
<Jon, sounds more like health/water quality issues more than anything else. The PolyFilter will help much in this regard.  Is your lighting sufficient
for keeping these types of inverts?>
Thanks
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Jon

Brown Slime killing my reef! Please Help!   6/13/06
Ok I am in dire need of some assistance! First my plate coral got brown slime. I did an iodine dip to no avail. It is on a steady decline and I
am taking it for dead at this point. Then my colt got it!
<... root cause/s here? Something amiss with your water quality perhaps?>
I got a frag of it off that is doing really well, and did an iodine dip on the rest of it, but it is very pale in color, and seems to be just barely
hanging on. The polyps still come out but the color is just awful! NOW MY XENIA HAS IT!!!!!!!
<Very unusual for such disparate groups of cnidarians to fall prey to this contagion>
I cut off some parts that seemed to be doing crappy and had the brown stringy stuff on it...what is at work here?!
<The six bazillion dollar question>
How did this get introduced to my tank? It is just moving from coral to coral, how do I stop it?!
<Fix the environment...>
The iodine dips are not working!! I am terrified of losing my entire reef to this. PLEASE HELP!!!!! Or maybe its not brown slime?! It's this brown stringy stuff...like snot, that
seems attached to the coral and waves about in the current. But the coral that has it does not like it one bit. I seriously feel like crying!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  All my time, effort, and money is quickly going down the tubes!
                                                       --Brandon
<... Brandon, where's the info. re your water testing? Your set-up gear, history? Please take a read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cniddisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above... and write back with more data. Bob Fenner>

HELP! This system is driving me crazy! - 05/05/2006
Guys, I really need your help in identifying what is up with my system.
History:
180 Gal set up for 5 years with a DSB, additional prop tanks plumbed into it (heavy SPS). I decided to revamp the prop tanks and move them to a separate area of the property (this meant digging lines etc). I started to experience losses but I couldn't figure out what was up (thinking maybe the DSB was crashing). To make a long story short, revamped the entire system, but continued to show ammonia until I finally got smart (if that's what you call it), tested the RO and bingo, apparently my membrane was toast letting pure crappy county water in my system! I changed out about half (300 gallons 2 weeks ago), all parameters are perfect except I am showing trace nitrites at .025 on Salifert. I just added another 100 lbs of cured rock 3 days ago, but nitrites are still hanging in there.
<Not unusual considering...>
I am using Seachem's Stability as well. I have a few acros, Montis but they don't look super hot (no polyp extension and faded, lost a good amount of frags), acans and zoos of course look fine. I am hoping that the trite will disappear in the next week. If it does not, is it possible some remnant contaminant from the city water is present?
<Mmm, no. This residual is from the ongoing suffering of biota in your systems>
I tested for copper and got zero, also using a heavy metal sponge, Purigen, and carbon, and have even run ozone (ORP is 400).
<A bit high... I would allow this to drift to about 350>
I am wondering at this point if I shouldn't have a sample professionally tested to find out if there is anything weird in the water. I used a good amount of 100% Silicone for windows
<... when? I do hope/trust this is 100% Silastic... not a product with mildewcide in it>
and doors in the prop tanks, is it possible the Silicone has arsenic or some other toxin in it? If so, can you recommend anywhere I could send a sample for testing?
<... I suspect that what you have and are experiencing is a "cascade" effect from the original contaminated tapwater... If it were me, mine, I'd take a long-term view here... maybe add a good deal of high quality activated carbon in your filter flow path... and let all ride. Bob Fenner>

Bleaching Crisis, Need Rehab Advice! - 04/25/06
Hi
<<Hello!>>
Have just returned from a 3-month long outbreak investigation in Africa (wish I was kidding) and I was pleased to see that my tank survived my mother's care, but it is certainly in trouble and I would like some advice about its rehabilitation.
<<Mmm okay, let's see what we can do>>
I walked in the door last night and was shocked to see that my 3 bubble tip anemones have turned completely white and are somewhat shrunken, my pulsing xenia have white patches, and my green star polyps are several shades lighter than when I left though they have spread madly over a large area.
<<Does not bode well for the anemones>>
A hammer coral, several mushrooms, and some yellow polyps have retained their normal color.
<<Hmm, I'm starting to think "lighting">>
My mother says the anemones changed color so slowly that she didn't even notice it (!!!) but she noticed that the xenia just started turning white last week.  The tank is a 6 year old, 150 gal stable reef.
<<Ok>>
The only "recent" change was in September 05 I upgraded the lights from VHO to MH (2x 150w 10K HQI-MH + 2x 130w dual actinic).
<<A nice rig for this tank I would think.  The upgrade would have been well appreciated by the anemones>>
After this upgrade I had the lights on a relatively short photoperiod of 8 hours.
<<Mmm, indeed...I have known folks who used about this same photoperiod, however I don't agree with it, I would gradually increase this to 12-14 hrs a day>>
The tank looked fantastic when I left the country in January, so if this lighting was inadequate it sure took a long time to show it and I never increased it.  
<<The lighting is probably "just not quite enough" for long-term health, thus taking a while for symptoms to manifest>>
The timers have not malfunctioned - she would have noticed that because the tank normally comes on at 3pm and stays on till 11 so the lights on during the day would have been very noticeable.
<<Ah good...guess that answers my question about the "regularity" of the lighting>>
I did a few tests this morning and my chemistry is not optimal: NO3 12.5, KH 6, pH 8.3.
<<Lack of frequent (enough) water changes maybe?>>
She has been doing water changes every 3 weeks and I usually do every 2 weeks so I guess that's showing.
<<Maybe just need to do "larger" water changes (30% or more)>>
Also, it sounds like she hasn't been feeding the anemones much, but then I never fed them all that much either and it/they've been fine for 3 years (I used to feed about once a month - split twice last year).
<<Feeding these animals is very important...especially if photosynthesis is at a reduced level...and even more so now that they are bleached>>
The temp hasn't been out of line (range 77.3-78.5, the thermometer records that for me).  The anemones have not changed positions (1 at 18" deep, 2 in the top 6") since I left.  The usual routine for the tank includes adding calcium, reef buffer, reef builder, iodine, strontium, iron (for refugium), PhytoPlex (for large colony of feather duster worms that are also now looking a little ragged) 2x/week according to the directions on the bottles, and I haven't changed anything in a long, long time.  My mom claims to have adhered to the schedule pretty well, and I do think she has but something has clearly gone awry anyway.  
<<Agreed>>
I am sure of 3 steps I need to take - bunch of small frequent water changes, get the KH up (? Was thinking of getting Kalkwasser but that would be a change from my routine), feed Mysis soaked in Zoecon (twice a week? Every day?).
<<The water changes will take care of the KH, and twice weekly for the anemones is a good start feedings (and Selcon is a better choice than Zoecon, IMO)...up feedings to three times a week if they will consume it all>>
What I am not sure of is what I should do with the light - increase photoperiod?  Decrease?  Leave it?
<<Increase (gradually) to at least 12 hours per day>>
Any other immediate steps you would take?  
<<I think you have things well in hand/know what's required as of this moment.  Unless there is something you didn't think to mention, the water changes should be able to handle your water quality issues.  Do start increasing the photo period of the tank, and please read this article (and peruse the blue links at the top of the page) on captive care of these anemones:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm >>
Thanks for any advice
Tracy Creek
<<You're quite welcome.  Regards, Eric Russell>>

Bleaching Crisis, Need Rehab Advice! II - 05/09/06
All is not well (actually getting worse?) in the bleaching crisis and I'm not sure what if anything I need to change in the rehab plan.
Referring to email exchange with Eric Russell below...
<<Hello Tracy...tis Eric again>>
I have been home 14 days and in that time have done the following for my bleached anemones, xenia, & star polyps:
-Increased photoperiod from 9 hours to 12.5 (~30 min every other day with some stalls because I was worried it was making them worse).
<<Sounds good>>
-Fed anemones 5x (Mysis with Selcon).
<<Is a good sign that they are feeding>>
-4 water changes totaling about 70 gallons (50% of tank).
<<Could/should step this up if conditions have not improved...perhaps a single 50% water change, followed by weekly 25% exchanges>>
-Cleaned debris from refugium & sump & improved refugium flow.
<<All good>>
-(Yesterday) Started carbon & a PolyFilter to mitigate any chemical warfare that may be taking place.
<<Mmm, wish you had started this right away...but do continue its use>>
Let me also add that I am completely convinced that you are right that too little light was the main problem. (My LFS gave me competing advice
2 wks ago and said decrease the light but I decided you were right though they are generally great.)  I had a brainwave one morning - my
tank gets full winter sun.  Hence when I left in January with the lights on an 8 hour photoperiod, the tank looked fantastic, but it was actually getting more like 15 hours of light.
<<Ah, I see>>
From Jan-April it lost the winter sun and gradually declined to get only the 8 hours provided by the lights.  In past years the season hasn't made a difference, but I had the old VHOs on a long photoperiod.
<<Though your tank/anemones looked great before (I don't doubt your word), what you are experiencing now well may well have been about to happened no matter what/may be the culmination of years of "living on the edge"...in other words just "barely" surviving with no real energy reserves until some environmental change (stress from acclimation to new lighting/a new keeper/different husbandry practices) put the anemones "over the edge" so to speak>>
During my efforts to improve things, several not-great things have been happening:
- Green fuzzy algae bloom (should I freak out now and order some more Reef Janitors?
<<The "janitors" are just treating the symptom...you need to find and cure/remove the cause.  Start by reading here, and be sure to follow the indices in blue at the top of the page: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/greenalgcontfaqs.htm >>
I have about 15 little crabs that may be eating this stuff, but I'm not sure this is enough and I don't want it to get out of hand before I try to correct it.
<<Agreed...but find the cause>>
- Anemones looking weird:  They are all able to eat, still have their "stickum" and remain in their usual positions.
<<Good signs>>
But they don't really look right.  The smallest one looks the weirdest.  Its tentacles are abnormally turgid, so instead of waving in the current, they jiggle.  It has developed a LOT of small, iridescent white spots on its tentacles.  I am not sure if they are good or bad - it used to have green iridescent spots, is this the beginning of the return of zooxanthellae, or is this a fungal or bacterial disease?
<<Disease is doubtful...likely a function of light (re)acclimation>>
The medium sized one also has lots of spots and looks reasonably normal except for still being yellow-white overall.  The largest one (deep in the tank) has fewer spots but has several thin red sticks protruding from its center.
<< ? >>
As if it just ate a peppermint shrimp (possible? I suppose) and the legs/antennae are sticking out.
<<Hmm...>>
I have never seen this before.  Does an anemone have thin red sticks among its normal internal anatomy?
<<I have seen colored mesenterial fibers before...but these are not rigid.  Perhaps a hapless shrimp as you said...or even a bit of shell/legs from a recent molt>>
I really can't see its mouth, and can't tell you if anything else is protruding because the tentacles are mostly covering it.  Its tentacles look essentially normal except for color.  All three have faint pink at the tips.
<<Ahh, good!>>
Do you think they are suffering from light shock, or are they suffering from another week with inadequate light, or does this sound like "improvement"?
<<Hard to say honestly.  But making any more changes at this point will only be more stressful...best to leave things "as is" and give the anemones a chance to finish adjusting>>
- Hammer coral now looking shrunken and exuding faint wisps of mucus.
It looked fine before I started rehab.  I can't seem to get any food to stick to it, no matter how tiny.
<<Possible light shock...can you move it lower in the tank?>>
-Xenia near disappearing.
<<Not unexpected...considering>>
Tiny, white lumps in place of the huge pink pulsating mass I used to have.
<<If you leave this undisturbed, it is possible the Xenia will be "reborn" in time>>
-Coralline algae sloughing off the back of the tank in massive thick sheets.
<<Likely a result of the change/increase in light.  Metal halide really does provide quite a bit more "punch" than VHO>>
-KH has not improved really despite all the water changes and every other day addition of reef builder.  Yesterday it was 8 (NO3 ~10, pH 8.3).  
<<KH is fine I think, the nitrate is troubling though...and likely mal-effecting the anemones...not to mention fueling your algae problem.  Time for those larger water changes>>  
Of note, the xenia are in a space war with a spreading colony of green mushrooms and a small colony of green star polyps that somehow moved into their midst.
<<Not good for the Xenia>>
I suspect noxious chemistry in that corner, would you expect this to kill the xenia?
<<Yes>>
Would you expect it to affect the anemones?
<<Anemones are quite sensitive to water chemistry, so yes, quite easily...another reason for keeping them in specie specific systems>>
Should I try to separate all of these things manually?
<<Physical separation in the tank is mandatory...separate tanks altogether would be optimum>>
How long/often do I need to run carbon to mitigate this?
<<A couple cups changed out every two weeks...run continuously (as in "as long as the tank is up")>>
The mushrooms and yellow polyps still look great.  And the green star polyps look better than before.  
<<All hardy (and noxious) critters>>
Main question is, should I change anything?
<<Increase water changes (size/frequency), use/keep using the carbon and Poly-Filter, and try to determine the source of your nitrate...look through here for more help: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm >>
Should I continue increasing the photoperiod or sit at 12.5 hours for a while?
<<Sit...I think this photoperiod is fine>>
Thanks for enduring a long email, I am very grateful for the free technical support and would pay for your services, in case you are considering such a thing!
<<No need my friend...very happy to assist>>
Tracy Creek
Atlanta
<<Regards, Eric Russell...in not so far away Columbia>>

Bleaching Crisis, Need Rehab Advice! III - 05/09/06
Thanks Eric.
<<Welcome Tracy>>
I will follow your recommendations.
<<I hope they prove helpful>>
Just one tiny additional question.
<<Anytime>>
I have found conflicting information on whether PolyFilters remove essential elemental additives or not.
<<I suppose there's a possibility, even a probability, the resins scavenge more than just the "bad" ions present in your system...but I have never found its use to be detrimental (I use it on a continuous basis).  Nor have I heard such from other users of the media.  In my opinion the benefits of Poly-Filter far outweigh any negative aspects such as stripping trace elements...which are easily replaced with diligent attention to water changes>>
Do you think it is ok to leave a PolyFilter in place for a long period?
<<Indeed I do...though weekly/bi-weekly rinsing under the tap will clean accumulated detritus...possibly refresh/extend the resin's beneficial properties.  I usually change out my Poly-Filter when it becomes a dark brown color and the resin is no longer "felt" during rinsing>>
I have in the past used it only in periods of crisis for a week or so.  It is relatively easy to leave it in place, though, if that wouldn't cause more problems.
<<Nope...may even prevent a few>>
Tracy
<<Regards, EricR>>

Panicky Coral Care/Poor Acclimation Causing Problems - 03/27/2006
Hello and thank you for taking a moment to answer my question.
<Gladly.>
I have had my 46gal bowfront saltwater tank running for about 4 years now. I recently added a 2x96w PC fixture to increase my light. I already had (a 1x96wPC, total 3x96W PCs, more than 6WPG).
<Just tossed 'em up there and turned 'em on huh?>
I have a protein skimmer that's definitely doing its job, the stuff lately has been DARK green (ugh!). Two power heads provide the flow, with one being a Powersweep (goes back and forth on its own). It has had pretty much the same livestock for the last couple of years, which are a Gold Stripe Maroon Clown, Blue Velvet Damsel, Royal Gramma, and a couple of Green Striped Mushrooms. I added, a week ago today, a Colt coral, Pagoda coral, Toadstool Mushroom Leather Coral, Bulb Tip Anemone,
<Not good to mix with your corals.>
and a Blue Linckia Star. Well the Star has already died, and I acclimated it using the drip method and was very careful to not let it touch the air. The Anemone is doing WONDERFUL! It's found its spot, not moved since. I have fed it 3 times since I got it, and the Clown took to it in like 3 minutes...instantly! The corals are what I'm worried about.
<Ok.>
The Toadstool hasn't opened at all, the Colt and Pagoda are doing alright, but I was told they are in shock because of all the light?
<Too much all at once. No acclimation to new light/environment?>
I didn't think there was such a thing as too much light, so I've been running my single strip PC for about 2-3 hours a day.
<This is making your situation worse. These animals need time to adjust. This needs to be addressed.>
However I tried moving them to the bottom of the tank with the single strip totally off, and the Colt did a LOT better, but that's not where I want it at all, so they're all back to their original spots.
<Ok...this is a very bad yet common mistake. Corals are very sensitive to environmental changes. You've only had these a week and already asked them to be fine with constant fluctuations in lighting/flow. I can assure you they are not.>
The Toadstool still didn't open up even when at the bottom of the tank with the others.
<Perhaps more insulted than the rest.>
So, while they aren't melting, or COMPLETELY shriveled up, they aren't looking like they should either.
<You're currently heading toward COMPLETELY shriveled up.>
What should I do?
<Read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/growingcorals.htm and other related links from this page http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm . Stop moving them and regulate your light cycle.>
Oh and my water tests all come out fine except the nitrates were about 10ppm. I tried a water change for that without much avail. Any advise would be greatly appreciated!
<You have my thoughts. - Josh>

Flatworms On Hammer Coral - 03/21/06
I just recently received a small hammer coral from a fellow reefer.  The whole thing including the plug would fit inside of golf ball.  It's very small.
<<Indeed>>
I just noticed some small brown flatworms on it today.  I didn't know what they were until I tried to pick them off with a pair or tweezers.  The problem I'm having is that the flatworms are on the tentacles and every time I try to pick them off the tentacles retract.  I can't siphon them off or I'll damage the coral.  I want to get them early before they infest my tank.
<<Likely too late, they have probably already spread.  Quarantine could have prevented this.>>
What can I do?  I really need your guy's help, I can't think of anything.  Thanks in advance for all your help.
<<You can try giving this coral a temperature and pH adjusted freshwater dip, though be aware this process is not without peril (do a search on our site re for more information...you can start here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dips_baths.htm).  Regards, EricR>>

Corals/Health  - 03/12/2006
Hi Bob, <James today> dying for you to write the aforementioned article.  got a question for ya.  purely a what if situation, here.  ok, say you let your reef get a little out of hand and, well, let's just say you don't do any water changes for a couple of months, or buffer for those months, or regularly feed anything, let alone your inverts. . .  you know, some good ol' fashioned neglect.  But one day, you get motivated, and you do some water changes and buffer that tank up and get all water parameters right where they should be.  I mean perfect.  and let's say, in this hypothetical scenario, you have a formerly glorious leather toadstool and Lobophyllia that now refuse to expand, especially the leather. we'll say the Lobophyllia looks like it has receded a little bit, but doesn't seem to have tissue necrosis.  the leather is still alive, but
only expands a fraction of what it is capable, and certainly not every day, let alone all day.  we'll say this started about the same time I
started buffering again.  I tried to gradually bring the pH back up, I think successfully.  are they in shock?  they are still alive and in
perfect conditions.  will they come out of it?  Nick, this is something I don't believe anyone can answer.  A question of how long in neglect, lighting conditions at present, trace levels in tank, etc.  If their health didn't decline too bad, all or most may survive but it isn't going to happen overnight.  James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks, <You're welcome.  Nick, in future queries, please capitalize your "i's and pronouns, beginnings of sentences, etc.  Saves us time in editing these before posting.  Thank you.>
Nick

Dying coral   1/17/06
WetWebMedia Crew,
A week ago I received a shipment of fish and coral for my 75 gallon reef tank from liveaquaria.  In one box, they sent me the wrong coral and the
bag that contained it leaked out, neutralizing the heating pack.  When I got the package, the tank water felt quite cold, as I live in Minnesota.
There was also a tail spot blenny in the box and, after a long acclimation period, he has been doing quite well.  Live Aquaria was good about what
happened and sent me a new coral.  However, the other coral has been dying back considerably, and has brown looking bubbles of what I believe is the
dying material.  I think that it is a Favites species coral but am not sure.  Is there anything I can do to try and salvage the remaining coral
<Yes... most directly either a bath or added iodine/ide...>
and does the die back pose a threat to the other corals/tank inhabitants.
<Yes, can. Best to treat in a dedicated system, not in the main tank>
I believe I need to quarantine it as I have noticed a large spike in nitrate in my tank, to above 15.  Ammonia is 0, Nitrite is 0, and specific gravity is 1.025.
Thanks,
Tim Jernberg
<Do give the cnidarian section on WWM a read... particularly stony coral health. Bob Fenner>

Coral Hitchhikers - 01/13/2006
Hello,
<Hi Eric.>
I have a 120 gal. reef tank set up for 1 year. I recently have noticed roundish, green spots "moving" around my torch and mushroom corals. what are they, and are they harmful?
<Sounds like you've got some flatworms there friend. Read here
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/flatworms.htm and follow through the links.>
Thanks for any help, Eric
<Gladly. - Josh>

Weak Corals and Anemones  - 01/12/2006
Hi -
<Hello>
Thanks so much for all of your help in the past, evidenced by the below thread of 2 years ago, among others.
<Welcome>
I have a 100 gallon well-established reef tank with HQI and actinic lighting, and an excellent protein skimmer.  The system uses a sump and has
excellent circulation throughout with extra pumps in the display tank.  RO water is used for replenishment, and the system gets continuous water
changes with my liter-meter III, about 5 gallons per day. I am going crazy trying to diagnose problems with some of my soft and LPSs
corals, and my rose and long-tentacle sea anemones.  For example, some of my mushrooms have died back, my frogspawns don’t open up like they used to, and
my anemones are pale and shrunken compared to before.  In an effort to stop the bleeding, I have, in the following order:
1. Stopped using phosphate-removal filter media and use Salifert phosphate remover instead (this is because I heard that some of the
phosphate-removal filter media can be a problem
<Yes, can>
and I noticed these problems with my corals while I happened to be using a Kent product (little white
round balls that go in filter media).  System phosphate levels are currently very low as tested with a low-phosphate kit.
2.       Stopped using Kalkwasser and am using B-Ionic instead (this is because I felt that I was inconsistent in dosing the Kalkwasser).  The
calcium and KH levels were a little low, around 360 and 8.
<A better alternative, agreed>
3.       Stopped using SD
<Likely an acronym for San Diego... natural seawater available at the base of the U.C. Scripps pier...>
sea water and am mixing salt from commercial seawater mixes like Instant Ocean.  I am trying out several and haven't figured out which one I like best yet.    
<You will, in time>
4.       Started feeding more regularly with phytoplankton, zooplankton, and “silver-side” fish for the anemones.
5.       Lowered salinity to 1.025 (was around 1.026 as a recommendation from the protein skimmer manufacturer; sometimes drifted as high as 1.027)
None of this has worked in the slightest.   I have ordered a calcium reactor and will install it as soon as it arrives.  I have other suspicions:
1.       I use a Rubber-Maid Brute trash barrel that I mix and store seawater in.  The water goes from that into a 125-gallon pond that is the
reservoir that Meter-Liter III draws from.  That water is filtered with a micron filter and aerated before use.  I am worried because the Brute trash
barrel has a horrible smell, noticed mostly when I lift the lid and especially when empty or hardly filled with water.  Have you ever noticed
this and do you think that could be contaminating my seawater?  
<Have not had problems with this fine line of product... I would however, take yours "down", scrub it thoroughly with rock salt... lightly bleach, rinse it with freshwater, let air dry...>
2.       I use bleach to clean my micron filters and my main overflow filter bag (in the sump).  I normally rinse them, then soak them for at least 24
hours in about 5/1 water/bleach, then rinse them off and leave them in the sun for a day before use.  Is there anything wrong with this practice?
<No. I do encourage having/using multiple sets of cartridges... to allow time to air-dry... rid of chlorine... and this really extends their effective use and life-times>
Could the bleach be leaching into the system and contaminating the seawater?
<Possibly, but doubtful of much effect here... would kill outright if present in much concentration>
3.       I have a typical aragonite sand-bed of about 1½ to 3 inches, and have not been mixing it up or siphoning it.  I just reviewed your
invertebrate book and realized that I should be siphoning it.  But do you think this could be so serious as to cause my corals to weaken?
<Could, yes... I would replace a good part of this every six months at this junction... a quarter or so... and the same with your live rock...>
Is there anything that you can think of that rings a bell from what you read here?  Thanks again for your time and help.
Carl Beels, M.S.
<Certainly welcome. It is a distinct possibility that the overall "dynamic" in/of your system is losing to "aging"... leading to more/chronic allelopathy amongst your cnidarian life... The addition/use of the calcium reactor, renewing of substrates will go a very long way to off-setting this aging/trend. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Re: Weak Corals and Anemones  - 01/12/2006
Bob -
<Carl>
Thanks so much for your prompt reply and words of encouragement.  I didn’t
know that I was supposed to occasionally swap out live rock!!  Ok I will
give it a try and keep you posted!
<Please do. And not to be mysterious... the re-application of a larger mix of microbes, invertebrates, algae... and more easily soluble chemicals of use are what this "augmentation" is all about. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Carl Beels, M.S.

Soft coral question  - 1/6/06 confusion re cnidarians...
Hi Crew and Happy New Year! <And to you my friend>
I have a question regarding some recent additions and potential system changes that may be affecting my soft corals.
Parameters:  250 gallon FOWLR with a few soft corals (listed below). skimmer working well, refugium with Chaeto, UV sterilizer (cleaned monthly), 20x
flow rate (mostly turbulent),<<I'd cut this down by at least 5X.  Soft corals aren't real nuts about high water flow.>> 250 lbs. of Tonga live rock, live DSB, wet/dry
with Purigen/activated carbon.  Ammonia, nitrite 0, nitrate 2.5, calcium 400, dKH 12, spg. 1.024, phosphate .2, pH 8.3, temp 76 - 77.5, weekly 20%
water changes with RO (aged one week), and daily top off RO buffered.   Soft corals include:  one medium Colt coral, two medium hairy (frilly)
mushrooms, four small red pimpled mushrooms, one 10" giant cup mushroom, three small pumping Xenia, and one medium Spaghetti leather coral.  All
specimens are a good 12" + away from each other, except the Spaghetti leather is approximately 10" away from the giant cup mushroom.  Until recent
all of the specimens have appeared/acted healthy and "normal".  I believe I am very sparsely populated in soft corals in this 250 gallon tank.<<Yes>>
Problem:  my Spaghetti leather has closed up for an entire day and not extended its branches at all as is the same for one of the "frilly"
mushrooms on the other side of the tank.  The mushroom is one of three on the same rock, of which the others are looking quite healthy.  
Recent changes/events potentially effecting this:  recently changed lighting from 400 total watts of PC lighting (daylight and actinic) and added two
Coralife metal halide pendants of 150 watts HQI bulbs each (15,000 color spectrum).  This change took place a week ago, and I have the lights
approximately 8" from the water surface and initially started at 2 hours per day and now have extended to 3 hours over the last week, ultimately will
extend over the next week(s) to 5 hours total, all while keeping the PC fixture running the normal photoperiod of 12 hours. <<Going from 400 watts PC to 300 watts HQI isn't going to require adjusting the photoperiod.  This may be why the coral(s) may not be looking as good.>>
Other changes were a recent weekly water change of 20%, however changed from Coralife salt to Red Sea salt (have now heard neither of these are great and
may change to Tropic Marine Pro Reef, or Instant Ocean Reef Crystals).<<I'd go with IO>>
During the water change I did some general cleaning of scrapping the glass, re-arranged a rock that fell over, cleaned the over flow boxes,
etc.. needless to say my hands were in the tank quite a bit, which I seem to do more often than I know I should.  I also cleaned the UV sterilizer.
I know in reading the FAQ's that Anthony has written that soft corals in particular do not like hands in the tank and can act adversely as a result
of this.  I also know that chemical aggression between species exist, but since I am exclusively soft corals, I thought I was in good
shape/compatible.  I started adding to Sweetwater Zooplankton some Cyclop-Eeze and DT's phytoplankton which is fed about twice per week
sparingly. <<Good>>
Do you see anything that stands out?  I added fresh activated carbon and added Iodine today <<Soft corals, particularly mushrooms >these aren't soft corals... RMF< seem to do better in slightly less than perfect conditions.  In using Purigen and activated carbon you are removing the iodine as fast as your adding it.  Use one or the other, you have overkill, also removing trace elements quicker.>>in an attempt to boost water quality, but I would like someone else's opinion looking from the outside in to see if I am missing something.  I have all of the specimens in the type of lighting, tank position, and flow that is recommended per the recommendations of each species. <<Steven, from what I read everything sounds fine.  A little less chemical media, return lighting to your normal photoperiod, reduce that flow rate and things should get back to normal.  And do keep dosing with iodine and consider using a strontium/molyb supplement.>>
Your comments and/or suggestions are greatly appreciated.<<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>>
Best Regards,
Steven

Re: Soft coral question  - 1/6/06
James,
Just read your response and I do certainly appreciate your comments.  No
need in replying to this email however I wanted to clarify something I
believe was misunderstood or unclearly written in my previous email.
I "ADDED" the HQI pendants (300 watts total) to my existing 400 watts of PC
lighting.  This is why I only run the HQI halides 3 hours per day, adjusting
more time every second day, all while still running the PC fixture as I
normally have.  This set up will remain a combination PC fixture with HQI
pendants....one is not in lieu of the other. <Ahhh, now it makes sense.  In your original query you stated an "addition" and later a "change" so I wasn't sure which one was correct.>
I will take heed with your suggestion however to add iodine, while removing
the chemical media (I kind of guessed earlier this may be counter
productive)...thanks for pointing it out. <Good to use some chemical media but you don't want to cold sterilize the system.  Weekly 10% water changes using a good reef salt will replenish many of the lost elements.>
Best Wishes,<And to you.  James (Salty Dog)>
Steven

Stunted Polyps are Stumping Me 01-01-06
Hello.
<Aloha>
Read and reviewed most of the FAQ on Polyps but none addressed my specific problem.
I have a 55 Gallon Tank that's been running for over a year.
ph 8.4
Calcium 340
dKH 14
Nitrate 0
Nitrite 0
<These tests look good.>
3 Power Heads for water circulation
Tank has 35 pounds of Live Rock
Fish;
1 Yellow Tang, 1 Bluefin Damselfish, 1 Purple Firefish, 1 Royal Gramma, 1
Pygmy Angelfish
<Sounds good, but remember that tang will out-grow your tank in a hurry.>
Polyps;
Green Star Polyp, Colony Polyp, Button Polyp
Mushrooms;
Red Mushroom, Bubble Mushroom, Green Striped Mushroom,
Coral
Red Brain Coral.
The concern is regarding all of the Polyps. All are severely stunted.  
The Green Star was my first purchase and for the longest time (say 5 months) it grew and was fully extended.  
Then one day. it shrunk and has never returned to its normal size.
<This can be a common occurrence in some tanks. It seems to surface with extremely clean water, like that found in SPS tanks, or tanks with high nitrates or phosphates.>
Could it be toxins from the Red Brain Coral?
<It could be, but I would blame the shrooms first. This can be resolved with simple activated carbon usage.>
They are about 24 inches away from each other.
<Distance does not matter in a closed system.>
Could the lights be too bright.? I have a Coralife Lunar Aqualight installed it Feb 2005 and have not changed the light bulbs.
<Could be out of spectrum.>
The Green Star and Colony Polyp look healthy. The Button does not.
< I would lean toward an elevated phosphate level or chemical warfare.>
Maybe I'm missing something that's right in front of my nose.  So any and all suggestions of what is going on would be helpful.
<Run a phosphate sponge and activated carbon.>
Lastly.. I looked at some pictures of other Red Brain Coral on the internet and while mine looks healthy it is in a "closed position" (kinda looks like a
Clam) rather than an Open position.
<Could be due to the same water issues listed above or the lighting is out of spectrum. Remember water and bulb changes never hurt. Travis>
Hope this was enough.  by the way. I do enjoy this hobby :-)

"Melting" corals (Travis' go) 12-12-05
Greetings, crew, Tim here.
<Hello>
Initially want to thank you for all the help I've already gotten by browsing
your site.  I'm about 4 months into my first mini-reef, and I've been
relatively successful thus far, largely thanks to you.  At the moment, I'm
having some soft coral problems that I'm having a little trouble figuring
out, and I'm hoping you can help....
My system is a 36 bowfront, hang-on Prizm skimmer, hang-on Aquaclear 50
filter (for mechanical and charcoal, changed every other week), 3.5 inch DSB
(Caribbean play sand) with thin layer of crushed aragonite on top to hold
the sand, 2 Aquaclear 50 powerheads in the corners, 2-65W power compact
lights (one actinic 14 hours, one daylight 12 hours), 10 pound lace rock
with 45 pounds live rock.  
Temp 79.7, pH 8.1-8.2, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 0, calcium 420 mg/l,
alk 4.5 meq/l.
Livestock: 2 percula clowns, 1 citron clown goby, 1 firefish goby, 1 4-line
Hawaiian wrasse, 15 Astrea snails, 5 Nassarius, 3 cerith, 12 tiny blue
hermits, 2 red hermits, 1 very small emerald Mithrax, 2 cleaner shrimp
(Lysmata amboinensis), brittle star, banded serpent star.
Corals: xenia, torch (Euphyllia glabrescens), button polyps (zoanthids),
Pachyclavularia (green star), plate coral, green hairy mushroom (Likely
Rhodactis indosinensis), and a leather mushroom (Sarcophyton