225 gallon tank question/broken bottom 11/19/08
Hi,
I just came across your amazing web site looking for tank repair answers.
<Well welcome to WWM!>
I recently purchased a Used 225 gallon custom glass tank. It is 60X30 and 30 inches tall. It is made w/ 3/4" glass.
<A nice sturdy tank.>
In the process of having a stand made to accommodate the weight the bottom of the tank split. So now for my problem, I was reading through all your FAQs and see that it is ok to replace the bottom glass w/new glass.
<Sure.>
In my search for glass, a guy from a glass company suggested that I find a glass table top to keep my cost down. I have found a few. My question to you is can I use 1/2" instead of the 3/4", and does this suggestion make sense to you?
<1/2" tempered would work, I would go for the full 3/4 if you intend to go with a nontempered panel. On that note, the tabletop glass can work, but many of these will be tempered panes. This is a problem when going to cut it to size.>
One other thing, if this is a good solution to my problem, can just the bottom be removed, all the sealant totally removed and cleaned off well and just put new silicone on the bottom panel to replace the new panel?
<It can be. Do realize that silicone will not seal well against silicone that is already cured. You will need to remove all the old silicone as you describe, plus the bead that runs along the interior of the tank. The silicone between the glass panels will hold the bottom in place, while running a new continuous bead inside the tank will seal any leaks.>
Thanks so very much for your help and wonderful website!!
<Welcome, best of luck on this time consuming project, Scott V.>

Glass Sheet Dealer, FL, genital loss offers    12/11/07
Thank you for taking your precious time to respond to my insignificant question. I bow at your glorious presence.
<Man! You've gone over the top!>
Some background, I found a glass aquarium on the side of the road. Looked like it might have fallen out the back of someone's truck.
<W/o breaking?>
My curiosity got the best of me and being that I like to think I can be a do-it-yourselfer, I quickly snatched it up and brought it home. The tank measures (in inches) 60x17.5x22, by my calculations should be about a 100 gallon. The tank is drilled in two places with overflow boxes siliconed in. The glass is 3/8" thick. and has a top (front to back) glass support. The back pane is broken and being that it didn't shatter into a million, billion pieces, the glass must not be tempered. I went ahead and cut out all the broken pieces and as much of the silicone as I could. I inspected the edges of the bottom and sides and to my surprise, did not find any other damage. My intention is to replace the back pane with a new section and as I try to be as frugal as I can, I am having a difficult time locating a glass dealer online.
<Mmm, unusual... maybe the analog "Yellow Pages" would serve you better here>
I live in the state of Florida and if your crew or some of your dedicated readers can point me in a few directions (web sites), I would be forever indebted (almost willing to loose a testicle).
<Yikes! No need... Likely a source can/will be easily found via the phone directory. Under "Glass"... You might even be able to find a used piece of 3/8"s from a Glass Repair business... Bob Fenner>

Re: Glass Sheet Dealer  12/12/07
I recently missed the opportunity to get a few shower doors that were clear, untextured and of the correct thickness.
<Mmm... some of this glass is inferior for your intended purpose... check for the rating/"strength">
I know there are different characteristics available for glass, but do you think it would work for what I needed?
<Am not so sure... Again, I'd check with the outfits that replace household glass... Likely someone has a large enough used piece (of 3/8" triple strength) from a slider or other door... BobF>

Lost and Found, glass tk. panel repl.  – 06/17/07
Hello and thanks for taking the time to read my email. I was driving home from work today and on the side of the road in the grass I saw a rather large aquarium, I stopped to look at it and it looks like it was being transported and slid out the back of someone's pickup truck. I inspected it a bit and found that the bottom frame is cracked and the back glass is broken, but being that it was an Oceanic Reef Ready 110 Gallon tank, it has 2 built in overflows with 2 drilled holes in each overflow. The top of the tank has glass center supports. I couldn't resist but to bring it home. The tank still had the manufacturers stickers in it. Now I have read up on replacing the glass pane but am having trouble locating a source for the glass. I know the glass is tempered. I live in Jacksonville Florida. Can you help me find a source and is it worth replacing the pane? I think it would be, but that is just me.
Thanks,
Marcelo
<Mmm, I would look in the "Yellow Pages", business/phone directory under "Glass", call the folks about listed there with the panel dimensions. Bob Fenner>

Re: Lost and Found tank rep.  – 6/17/07
So judging from your answer, it would definitely be worth fixing?
<Oh yes>
I started cutting out the back section today, got the overflow tanks out, both sides cut and still working on the bottom section. The top center support is almost all the way out. I think the top and bottom frame is going to be the most troublesome. Thanks.
<A project for sure. And do ask about... Am not so sure that tempered glass is necessary, worth the expense here. BobF>

Re: Lost and Found – 6/17/07
Well I know the section I need is 60"x21.5"x3/8" and it has the green tint on the edges which as far as I know is what tempered glass looks like. It would seem to me, due to the length and height, tempered glass would be the better choice.
<I am in total agreement with this last stmt.... but knowing the cost difference in the glass and particularly what some outfits charge for cutting and drilling tempered (many places just outright won't), I wanted to introduce the idea that non-tempered good float glass would do. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
What is "float" glass?
http://www.google.com/search?q=What+is+"float"+glass%3F&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-Address&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&sourceid=ie7&rlz=1I7PCTA

Hex Tank Bottom replacement   6/12/07
Crew-
I don't know if this is possible, I need an opinion from someone on the crew with some expertise in custom aquarium building. I have found an old 80 gallon hex that is in great shape, except it needs a new bottom. The side panels are mitered at 30*, but the bottom is cracked. The bottom was originally made of ¼" plate glass. When that pane cracked, another ¼" pane was glued on top of it with silicone. The bottom otherwise has no bracing.
<Quarter inch, (aka triple-strength plate likely)... is not thick enough for the likely height (two feet, perhaps a bit more)>
If I want this tank, I am prosing to install aluminum bracing installed underneath the bottom pane (using a tig welder) as proposed in the picture I included.
<Mmm... this work... for what purpose?>
My next question is about what are the appropriate choices of replacement glass. As it currently sets, it will hold water, but I am not about to take chances how it will do when holding water and 150 lbs of rock.
1. Double-paned ¼" plate glass glued together with silicone. Remember that the tank was double-paned AFTER the first pane was broken. (Cost : $200)
2. Single-paned ½" plate glass. (Cost: $300)
3. Single-paned ¾" tempered glass. (Cost $400)
<Am feeling like a game-show contestant... "I'll take what's behind door #2 Craig!">
Is there another material you would suggest to use for the bottom of the tank? Or should I include a ¼" thick panel of Styrofoam and a ¼" panel of Lucite to help distribute the weight of the reef structure?
<The foam would be my choice>
I have resealed numerous aquariums and replaced side panels. I have even built smaller custom stand into walls and other structures. I have never tried to replace the bottom of such a large and free-standing tank. I don't think "it should hold" is a good enough confidence level for 80 gallons of water and the investment in my livestock (let alone the ethical arguments).
<Is fine to do... with care to cutting out the old piece, fitting in the new>
Oh, did I mention I just bought a new house my fiancé and I will be moving in to?
<Yikes... am compelled to make my usual quip here: "Have you noticed the similarity twixt the words "fiancé" and finance? Reef and grief? Heeeeeee!>
Thanks for the help,
Craig
<Welcome, and congrats. BobF>

Re: Hex Tank Bottom, bottom reply.  – 6/12/07
Bob-
<Craig>
You are right, the tanks about 27" tall and each side panel is 16" wide. From panel to panel it's 27" as well, from point to point it's 32".
<Mmm, okay>
So let me get this straight: are you saying I should triple pane 1/4" plate glass or I should use 1/2" tempered glass?
<I'd use 1/2", not tempered though... not necessary and more expensive>
1/4" plate glass for this hex bottom will run around $40 (new estimates), 1/2" tempered will run $160.
<Yikes! Likely from the cutting cost. I would look around... used glass would be fine here... Call some of the shops in the "Yellow Pages" that do replacement... Likely will save...>
I have little idea what the tensile properties are with respect to multiple panes of plate glass versus a single pane of tempered.
<IF done properly, are impressive... but hard to squeeze out a bunch of the air twixt panes...>
If I used the triple panes of 1/4" glass, I WOULD want to put silicone between each layer of glass, correct?
<Yes... but I wouldn't here... More trouble than it's worth... Look into the used glass... half inch...>
Thanks again,
Craig
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Cracked aquarium <vivarium...>, is it worth fixing?   4/22/07
Hello,
         my name is Matthew and I would appreciate your input on something.
I have been keeping fresh cold water fish for a few years and I would like to try either a pond or large tank now. I noticed in a nearby second hand shop several aquariums, they were labeled as vivariums because they each had one cracked panel.
<Mmm, are you sure Matthew? There are thinner paned tanks made just for vivarium, reptile et al. use... Do make sure you're looking at made-for-aquarium use tank>
There were two of these that I was interested due to their size, I have noticed you stating it is not worth trying to repair aquariums compared to buying them new.
<Often this is the case>
However these aquariums were large, from memory 1.5 to 2m long, at least 1m high
<! If made of glass... would need to be at least 1/2" construction...>
and around the same wide. The broken panel on both of them were the long vertical side. They were each priced at 30 dollars Australian, so about 35 Us dollars. Is it worth me trying to repair them?.
Thanks in advance.
-Matthew
<Mmm... depends on what glass costs there, what you figure your time is worth... IF the rest of the construct is good... and IF these are intended to be filled with water (I am seriously doubtful here), then perhaps. Bob Fenner>

Replacing the bottom glass of my 75 gallon tank, HELP!!!  4/8/07
I've looked in the forums but nothing seems to answer all my ?'s. I'm guessing that it is 75 gallons, but I'm not sure. It's got the molding on the bottom, the bottom glass has been totally shattered out. I'm not sure on what to start doing first. I know I need to get the molding off. But how is the ?.
<A good deal of work... but with "razor tools" and a good deal of work... In most cases I would "sacrifice" the current moulding/s... Order new through the manufacturer...>
I don't know if its one piece or just held together by the silicone. So long story short I need step by step help, PLEASE. thank you for your time
<... this is a very "big" job... as almost all such tanks are made "bottom first"... So, all the glass panels need to be cut apart, cleaned of existing Silastic... the new bottom laid into the new bottom frame/moulding... the sides, front and back... Likely a job, with traveling about, calls... of tens of hours... Most cases call for purchasing a new tank... Bob Fenner>

Fish tank repair... cracked pane, bottom  3/19/07
Hi,
   <Jack>
  I just got settled in from moving and upon resetting up my 40gal freshwater tank, I noticed a spider web on the bottom pane. It is a large crack, and leaks. I want to replace it- before going the route of slicing off the silicone and getting just the right piece, do you think it worthwhile to simple "glue" the new pane to the bottom of the existing cracked one?
Is this idea totally insane or not half bad?
<I do think this is worth trying... too much trouble to take all apart... tanks are "built on their bottoms"... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/glsaqpanes.htm
and see the titles of the linked files above...>
  Thanks for your time,
  Jack in NY
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Aquarium repairs 5/18/06
Hi,
<Hello>
I would like to know what type of glass is typically used for aquariums. I was told by someone that "sapphire glass" is to be used, but they didn't know how to get it.
<Probably referring to "Starfire" glass, which a high grade of glass used on high end aquariums, tends to be very expensive.  Unnecessary, but does look very nice>
Can just regular clear glass be used? And the reason I ask is I'm replacing a front pane on a 40 gal tank. I'm not fretting about the repair, just the glass I need.
<As long as the thickness is correct, a normal pane of glass available at a local glass shop should suffice.  When in doubt verify that the strength of the glass is appropriate with the glass shop.>                                                           Thank very much for your time and valued info.
<Chris>

Repairing glass tank with acrylic...Yikes!   7/22/06
Hi,
<Hello Beth>   
I have been reading through your threads, but have come up with conflicting replies to this question.
Yesterday I purchased a new 100 gal glass tank.  The cart I was using to get it into the house collapsed breaking the back panel of the tank.  Luckily it did not do any damage to the other piece which is one solid piece with rounded corners.  It would be more cost effective to repair the tank by using an acrylic panel instead of glass.  I have come up with not possible to yes you can in the faq's.  
Can I replace this back panel with an acrylic one?  Will the tank be structurally sound if I do?  What should I use to adhere these two materials together?
<Beth, I would not feel comfortable in doing this.  I would have it professionally repaired.  You may want to check your homeowners insurance.  This accident may even be covered.>   
Thank you for your time and help.
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Beth

Re: Repairing glass tank with acrylic  7/23/06
Thank you, I have not found a place that does repairs yet in my area.
  Beth
<Acrylic cannot really be adhered to glass in this repair... Your only real option for repair is to replace the broken glass with glass. Bob Fenner>
 

150 gallon tank with recessed bottom? Repair hello, I have searched through your posts and can't seem to find the answer to my question, I have a 150 gallon tank (6 feet by 18 inches wide). It has been leaking and the secondary seal has been repaired twice. I thought it would be better to redo the primary seal on the bottom glass. I flipped the tank over and removed the trim and to my surprise, the bottom glass is recessed inside the bottom of the tank about an inch. the current sealant seals the tank about halfway through the width of the 1/2 inch glass and that is all that is holding the glass in place--- it is kind of floating inside the tank walls with sealant between all glass and then the secondary seal along the inside. There is a black trim piece that is made to go over this recessed glass. So it seems to have been designed that way. Is this normal? <Yes... many tanks made with such "floating bottoms"> Should I purchase a slightly larger piece of glass and replace the bottom all together so that the tank sides sit on top of the bottom glass--- or should I set something inside the tank while it is upside down to hold the bottom an inch below the sides and run the sealant in between the glass again? I have attached a picture of the existing bottom. <Mmm, there are a few ways you could go here... as you've stated, by siliconing another piece of glass over the existing... might be the easier route... but hard to cut, place the plastic frame (which is non functional am sure you're aware)... Otherwise, you could cut out the entire silicone as it is... for the bottom plate, and resilicone this entirely... Bob Fenner> Thank you -- and I hope this made sense- the pictures probably explain it better. Josh Schulhoff

Replacing the Long Side - 265 Glass Tank Repair
I purchased a brand new 265 gallon aquarium that was broken. One of the long panels was cracked. I have since removed it and cleaned the majority of the old silicone from the seams. I will use some toluene (?) to really clean the joints of the glass. My question stems from the method that Perfecto uses to 'set' the glass. 
I called, just for kicks, to see how / if they would repair it. I was answered with "we would not repair it, but replace it with a new one" - if it was under warranty, but it is not. The original purchaser caused the damage therefore - no free fix. I did learn that Perfecto is now using 'spacers' on the larger glass tanks to keep the weight of the glass from pushing all the sealant out while it cures. They could not offer any of these spacers to me. So, I can get the glass, the sealant (100% silicone window & door sealer) - but do I need to worry about these spacers? Will the silicone bead be strong enough to hold all the weight of the panel without squashing it all out?
Now, as for the way to actually set the glass. Should I leave it 'right side up' / normal position, or should I lay it on the back (the non broken long side) and then place the glass on from the top? Any info regarding the procedure will be greatly appreciated!
>> I would keep the tank upright, but upside-down. I would place a tank that size on two or three solid easels. Before you start, take five clamps from a hardware store that will fit the sides of the tank. Measure the span, and mark the width on the clamp. Then put plenty of silicone on the edge of the tank. 
When you set the panel do so at the bottom edge (now on top) first, at a 45 degree angle to start. Then flip the panel down into place. Now use the clamps: one at the top and one at the bottom, tighten them until you have reached your mark. Ideally you will put one in the middle at the bottom seam. 
When the silicone is dried, trim the insides and make a proper bead (you can do this from underneath when the silicone is wet if you have used enough). 
If the tank does not have a center brace I would strongly recommend it. I assume that the tank is eight feet long, so you should install a middle brace (same thickness of glass as the rest of the tank) that spans the middle of at least 12-16". This will prevent the front glass from bowing out too much. Good Luck, Oliver <<
<<Marina's note: I would NOT, I repeat NOT use something as toxic as toluene to clean the glass.  All that is needed is a vinegar/water mixture, and rubbing alcohol to get all oils off.  A set of good straight-edge razors is what is needed to best remove all silicone.>>

DIY Tank Repairs
Thanks for the great advice. 
<Glad to be here for you!>
After waiting about another month this leather decided to come back out, and has steadily recovered back to standing back straight up with all of the polyps out.
<Awesome! Sometimes it just takes time for a happy ending!>
My Ammonia was fine, just my interpretation of the color, but I did find what was the cause of the problem. My test kit was reading 0 nitrate(no3) when in fact the real value was above 100.
<Yikes!>
I started a regular schedule of 20% water changes/tests every other day for the last 3 weeks and now have nitrite, nitrate, phosphate and ammonia all down to 0.
<Good work!>
I have another question on a totally different topic. I received (free) a glass tank (72L x 24D x 36H). There is of course a catch.
<Always, huh?>
The tank had been drilled in both the back and bottom, both at one end of the tank. The back hole has a large crack and the bottom of the tank is totally cracked. The glass is all 1/2 inch. My plan was to have the sides cut down to 48" and have the side that was drilled cut off, that would eliminate the crack in the side. For the bottom, I priced a 48x24x1/2 glass at $120. I also priced a piece of 48x24x1/4 acrylic at $45. The acrylic would be much easier to work with for drilling (and much cheaper), but I was concerned if I am able to get a good bond between the acrylic and the glass, and if 1/4 is strong enough.
<Exactly my concern. I'd feel better about having all glass used in this situation>
The tank will be going on a base where the bottom inch is hidden by the stand, so I can also place a piece of 1/2 plywood under the acrylic, if that would provide sufficient strength.
<I'm really more concerned about the bonding issue...>
I have some experience working with glass and acrylic (but never tried mixing them), and have someone helping me that is quite capable with things like this.
<Good! You definitely want professional input on this project>
Is this a project that has some probability of success, or am I just going to make a big mess?
Thanks in advance.
Derek
<To be honest with you, Derek, I'd highly, highly recommend consulting a professional glass/acrylic craftsperson for this endeavor. There would be nothing worse than the seems opening up and causing a disaster when you least expect it! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.> 

Economic hex aquarium repair?
I just purchased some old what seem to be custom made aquariums real cheap.  
They have beautiful oak stands trim and hoods. But the largest approx. 100 gallon has one panel a hex type corner broke. is it salvageable and where do I start? <I would not even try to fix it...not worth the time or money, IanB>