Can I put crushed coral in my canister filter?
Dear WWM Crew,
<< Blundell here. >>
  Is there any benefit in using crushed coral as a filter media? << I think so.  It provides great surface area. >> Will that have any positive impact on pH or alkalinity? << I don't really see how it will, but it can't hurt. >> I've been using a H.O.T magnum filter as a mechanical filter/water polisher with the micron cartridge. This task will now be performed by an Eheim 2213 canister filter with nylon wool stuff. That leaves the magnum without a job -I have an Eheim 2227 wet/dry for the biological filtration. Rather than running the Magnum empty, I was thinking of filling it with crushed coral, so as to slow down the erosion of my DSB. << I've thought of this before, but can't really see how it will be dissolving.  However, there really aren't any reasons not to. >> Can I use crushed coral/dolomite or some sort of media meant for a calcium reactor?
Thank You,
Narayan
<<  Blundell  >>
PS. Adam, my QT has been running for a week now. I'm ready to get a cleaner goby now.. Thanks..

Concerns with adding crushed coral to a canister filter.7/29/04
You guys know your stuff and I hate to criticize, but I think this response was off. At the very least a caveat about possibly damaging the motor of the filter should have been offered (as small pieces of coral are likely to break loose). << That is a good point, that I overlooked.  There are possible problems with this idea.  I should also mention that I do have canister filter with crushed coral in it, but I don't use it anymore.  I do still use my BioWheel filter, and I pulled out the filter pads and filled that space with sand and rubble rock.  On occasion, the sand will get in the impeller area and get plugged up.  But it isn't that difficult to get going again.  So there definitely are risks to consider, but overall I like the idea of extra surface area in the areas of high water flow. Thanks for the email. >>
L<<  Blundell  >><RMF is in total agreement>

Odd brand canister filter parts
I have a Hailea WL-504 canister filter. I am in need of a part I need the intake & output tubes base. Do you have any idea where I can get one? I am desperate I have about a hundred babies in my tank. Thank you Sherleen
<Did a quick search for Hailea WL-504 on the Net... as have not heard, seen this line... and no luck (other than e-Bay... Do you have the instructions, packaging for this filter? Do they list an email address? I'd call or email some of the larger etailers here: Marine Depot, Dr.s Foster & Smith, Big Al's... hoping they've got parts for this unit. Good luck. Bob Fenner>

- Marine Aquarium Filtration -
Hi again,
Sorry for all the questions. I am getting a 70 gallon tank with 2 magnum 350 canister filters and a pretty bright lighting system. I was also going to add a penguin 330 bio wheel filter and a skimmer/ filter that works up to 90 gallons.  Would this be enough for a saltwater tank? <It will work, sure. Do make sure you have extra micron filters for the Magnum(s) so you can swap out a clean one every five to seven days and have one cleaning, one drying and one in the filter.> thanks
<Cheers, J -- >

- Eheim Choices -
Hi guys,
Excellent web site which useful info.
I am about to set up my first marine tank. <Excellent.>
I am at a dilemma as to what filter would be best suited.  I have narrowed it down to the Eheim 2028 or the 2229.  Mt tank is approx 70 Gallon.  60Ibs of live sand and will have approx 15-20kg of live rock.  It will initially be of fish only and in future over to some hardy invertebrates
Which of the two filters mentioned would be best. <They are both good filters, but I think the wet/dry design of the 2229 might be over-reaching in its effectiveness. I'd go for the 2028.>
Thanks
<Cheers, J -- >

Wanted: Clear, Clean Water!
Hey all, thanks for running such a great site.
<You're quite welcome! Scott F. here today!>
I have a quick question for you. I haven't set this tank up yet, but it is a 60gal, and I have a Seaclone 150 skimmer, and a Penn-Plax Cascade 1000 canister filter for it. I plan on using around 50-60 lbs of live rock in this thing, with only fish in there. And was just curious as to what filter media you would recommend me putting in the canister??
<I'm a big fan of activated carbon. It excels at removing a variety of organics and nutrients from water. If you change it regularly, you can be assured that the media will be at its peak absorptive capacity. Choose a good grade and follow the manufacturer's instructions concerning the amount to use, etc. As an aside, make sure that your skimmer is pulling out a few cups of dark, yucky skimmate every week!>
Do you think I will be able to keep the water really clear with this form of setup?? Thanks for your time. Rob
<Rob, if you don't overstock, feed carefully, change small amounts of water regularly, and pay attention to filter maintenance, you'll have a system that will have high water quality and be as clear as you envision! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

- Broken Fluval? - 
I have searched and cannot find a solution. My Fluval 404 isn't running correctly. It seems that the return water flow is half of what it normally is. I cleaned the impeller and am at a loss. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. <Do go through all the tubing and intake screens as well... look for possible obstructions, otherwise contact Hagen directly.> It is a few years old. Motor sounds fine. 
Thanks in advance 
Lisa 
<Cheers, J -- >

Eheim's alright by me 2/18/04
Sorry for the confusion, I was just wondering if it was ok to use an Eheim canister in a reef tank.
<sure... like HOB Magnums and various other "power" filters, they have their place and advantages (and disadvantages). Be sure to service it frequently to minimize nitrate production>
Can you tell me what company makes "sugar based"  calcium? Seachem reef advantage calcium is not?
<it is indeed Seachem's "Reef Calcium">
Can you give me any help on my questions (below) about lowering nitrate and lessening the amount of algae I have in my tank?
<very easy my freund... its all about nutrient control: aggressive protein skimming (tuning a good skimmer to get daily or near cupful daily skimmate production.. moist skimmers are not properly installed to do this if even worthy brands - be sure to feed raw overflow water only to a skimmer or is a sump model, have it catch raw water in a skimmer box/section... never in the open sump)... and do regular partial water changes (10-20%weekly minimum)>
Sorry about all the questions, just cant seem to get my tank like the tanks I see and read about on the internet and in my LFS (Absolutely Fish in Clifton, NJ)
<do check out the archives on skimmers here at wetwebmedia.com... very extensive. Best of luck! Anthony>

- Looking for a New Canister -
Hello again crew.  I currently have a 45g SW setup, filtration... lots of LR and LS, an AquaFuge refugium, AquaC Remora skimmer... and an old Magnum 350 I have been using for circulation and it's micron filter.  I want to replace this Magnum 350 with something a little more versatile, media wise.  As with any other product for aquariums, there are millions of choices. I have to use a canister again because of tank constraints. <And those are???> I was wondering if you recommend any specific ideas. <I'd say scrap the canister all together.> I have been leaning towards the Eheim Professional Wet/Dry. What is your take on them? <Not worth the extra money, better to just go with the standard Eheim... plus, it's a wet/dry = nitrate producer.> The LR, LS, and refugium are doing a great job on the biological aspect, but I am not using anything else besides the skimmer. <The hang-on refugium counts as something.> Am I over filtering to begin with by using the canister. <Potentially... small tank, large filter.> Ammonia always reads 0, Nitrite and Nitrate are always negligible.  The Magnum micron filter is always trashed when I change them... to be expected because I am using the micron filter. <Well... yes.> Is this micron stripping the water of good bacteria? <No... bacteria are much smaller than this filter can snag.> It's exhaust does play a major part in how I have my currents in the tank setup, which is a serious reason I want to stay with a canister also. <Replace with a powerhead.> What is your take on this situation? <Again, think canisters are really best at separating you from your money... a technology that for the most part has seen it's day come and go. There are other options... and a sterile-clean tank really isn't in your best interest. I'd just lose the canister.> Thanks a million in advance.
Steve  
<Cheers, J -- >

- Looking for a New Canister, Follow-up -
My restraints are that I don't have a lot of room near the aquarium, and no predrilled holes in the tank.  I feel like I need something to catch small/medium/large particulate matter. <I don't... think your refugium would settle out much of this.> I feel like I need a little extra something.   Any other ideas? 
<How about just a standard hang-on filter like an AquaClear or similar unit.>
Steve
<Cheers, J -- >

- Canister Filter, More Follow-up -
I though about that type of filter as well.  My only problem as far as that goes is that I am just about out of room for hang on filters in the back because of the AquaC Remora skimmer, and the Aquafuge refugium.  The rear of the tank is already a little cluttered, leaving me only a few inches of space. <Understood.>  That's why I thought the canister would still be the best way to go.  Besides intake and outlet tubes (very small combined size) I can keep the unit separated from the main tank on the floor.
<Fair enough.>
Steve
<Cheers, J -- >

- Canister Filters -
Hey guys,
Writing back to you as I have been doing more research into my tank set up. Came upon a cannot pass up deal on equipment and wanted your input. I have a 55 gal long that I am going to run live  rock and sand and only 4-5 small fish as this is my first salt setup. A friend ran into money problems and broke down his tank and is going to sell me his equipment, two Fluval 404's, Prizm skimmer, heaters, wave makers, and all testing equipment for $100.00. I have a emperor 400. My question is should I use the 2 Fluval and the 400. <You could.> I know the skimmer is not tops but should get me started. Also I have two 201 powerheads do I need to use them and the wave makers. <Again, your option here. I would.> Any insight would help as I want to start cycling my tank this month. Also will this setup help cycle faster as the rock is cured already. <Yes.>
Thanks in advance.  Erik
P.S  what media should I use in both if that's what you recommend. <I'd just use the stock Fluval media.
Cheers, J -- >

- New Canister on the Block -
I purchased a Proquatics canister filter for my 55 gal tank 2 weeks ago (it says it is for 55 to 125 gal tanks). I adjusted the red rubber flow indicator as instructed when installed. The flow indicator reached the red mark today so, per manufacturers instructions I cleaned the filter completely and replace the carbon media with a combination carbon and ammonia fighting crystals manufactured by Marineland (I have ceramic media also which I did not change). It should be noted that nothing was that dirty (or did not visually appear to be. When I reinstalled the system the system primed itself but the water level on the flow indicator only dropped about 1 inch from the previous level set just prior to cleaning. Is this normal? <Not certain... am not experienced with this model canister... might want to pose this question to the manufacturer.><<Is normal... this cartridge is just "showing age"... All need at least two sets of cartridges... one for use, the other for cleaning, drying... to keep sanity, extend life of them... RMF>> When I readjusted the red rubber flow indicator (really just a type of o-ring) I only have about 1 inch to go before it (the flow indicator) indicates it is time to clean my filter again. I called PetSmart (where I purchased the filter) and they were virtually clueless about my question. <Hmmm... this is perhaps their in-house brand. You might want to consider returning it... this filter may be unnecessary if you also have an Ecosystem filter running on this tank.> The water is still clear and the pump seems to be functioning properly. Originally I was told I should not have to clean the system for about 4 weeks the first time, but I figured being a new tank some maybe it would require a faster cleaning the first time since the ecosystem was adjusted. Should I be concerned about this flow indicator or not? <I would think only a little... it does seem its readings are perhaps a bit erroneous.> I searched your site and could find nothing relating to my particular question previously asked or answered. Your assistance would be greatly appreciated.  Tony
<Cheers, J -- > <<See WWM re cleaning cartridges... RMF>>

Isolation tank biological filtration 12/17/03
Hi Folks,
<Hi Andrew!>
My 100l isolation tank is biologically filtered by an Eheim canister containing their recommended biological media. The water quality in the tank is very good except nitrate which is often 60 to 80mg/l before the 25% weekly water change (using RO water). I am looking for a solution to reduce the nitrate down considerably.
<A worthy goal!  I will discuss options below, but would suggest that an ideal isolation (quarantine) tank should not have any input to generate nitrate.>
My LFS is adamant that the high nitrate levels negate the benefit of an isolation tank, he argues it would be better to introduce the fish directly into main tank to benefit immediately from the excellent water quality. While I do not agree with this view (I will always isolate before introducing new fish), I do understand where he is coming from. Therefore I would like to make the isolation tank water as good as possible.
<First of all, your LFS is missing the point.  The isolation isn't just to benefit the incoming fish, but IMO, equally or more to protect those you already have.>
I am considering replacing the Eheim biological media with live rock. I propose placing the live rock actually in the canister itself, so that it benefits from a good water flow. I would make the transition slowly, to give each bit of live rock time to get up to full biological capacity before removing all the Eheim media.
<I would suggest against live rock in an isolation tank.  If you add medications, they may be absorbed into the rock reducing their effectiveness.  The porous nature of the rock can also harbor pests and parasites>
The key to this strategy is that I am not interested in the critters that live within the live rock, I am purely interested in the rock acting as a host for bacteria (for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate removal).
<I agree with your philosophy here, but not the strategy. Most folks would suggest that you accomplish the biological filtration with synthetic media.  Air driven sponge filters work marvelously for this purpose.  After use, they can be removed from the quarantine tank and washed, boiled, bleached, whatever.  Once appropriately cleaned, they can be kept in the sump of your display to re-establish the biological filtration potential.>
Now the worst case scenario - I have to treat a fish in the isolation tank with copper. This would finish off any critters in the live rock and no doubt temporarily reduce the bacterial effectiveness (as it would the Eheim media). After the treatment I assume the rock would recover full biological capacity, in the same way the Eheim media would - or is this assumption flawed? Perhaps the rock would absorb the copper more than the Eheim media, slowly releasing it back into the system, therefore delaying the bacteria re-establishment? Perhaps the fact that the Eheim media is not porous is a key to its success - quick recovery after copper treatment?
<I am quite sure that the Eheim media is very porous.  The large surface area created by the porosity is what makes it an effective biological media.  I don't  know if it is any more or less likely than live rock to absorb medications, but IMO the point is moot.  A basic quarantine system should not contain any porous materials at all.  A bare bottom tank with a couple of pieces of PVC pipe for hiding places and a sponge filter are all that are necessary.  This allows for the siphoning of the bottom (where parasites and wastes will settle), and no worries about reducing the effectiveness of medications.>
The alternative is to place the live rock in the isolation tank itself, and remove it temporarily whenever copper is applied. But this is not really going to work. I would have to run the Eheim media constantly, even when not treating with copper, so that it can "take the load" on the occasions the live rock is removed due to treatment. Therefore the canister will be generating nitrate more quickly than a few pieces of live rock can deal with it in the isolation tank. I know this doesn't work because my main tank had this arrangement, and even a large mass of live rock could not keep up with the nitrate generated from a canister. It was only when I totally removed the canister biological media that the live rock eliminated nitrate from the main system completely.
<Your observations are right on.  Nitrate will accumulate when an ultra efficient, highly aerobic nitrifying media is present (your canister or bio balls for example).  When nitrification occurs in a substrate that also supports de-nitrification (live rock), de-nitrification is much more efficient.  Again, these are moot points.  To ensure that your isolation/quarantine tank achieves it's goal of being a place to identify and treat any diseases on incoming fish and prevent their spread to your display, I would recommend draining, bleaching and drying the quarantine system after every use.  Most aquarists leave such systems dry until they are needed and only keep a sponge filter "seeded" in the sump of their display.>
In short, do you think my idea of live rock in the canister is wise for my isolation tank?
<In short, no.  Porous media have too many disadvantages and no real advantages for the relatively short period of time that fish should be kept in isolation/quarantine.>
As always, thank you for your trusted advice.
<As always it's a pleasure!  Adam>
Andrew Senior

Fluval Filtration for a marine fish only - 12/7/03
Hi again,
    Well do you think that a refugium, protein skimmer and Fluval 404 would work too? <Let me guess, you have a Fluval 404 left over and you want to use it. If you are gonna use it make sure that you pull all the mechanical and biological media and maybe place carbon in its place. Be sure to change the carbon frequently. I would use a sump and refugium mix. Look for them on the internet for do-it-yourself instructions or CPR makes some hybrids as well as a few other sources. ~Paul>

Eheim filters (and saltwater filtration)
Hi I have a 72 gallon tank with two damsels, a Prizm pro 300 protein skimmer, a power head and a Fluval 304.I noticed that my nitrates were a surprising 100 so I called my LFS last week and they told me that my Fluval wasn't good enough for my 72 so I bought a Eheim 2217 with the nitrate removing media and I noticed that you don't really support canister filters. Do you think that the Eheim will bring down my nitrates because I really want to try an emperor angel that I've had my eye on for quite some time now. thank you
<Mmm, well, I really like Eheim products in general, and do use their canister filters (on my freshwater tanks)... But for a tank of this size and type, you'd be better of revisiting your options and brands. I would upgrade your skimmer... and look into other filter modes. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/filtration/marineFiltr.htm and on... and on! through the many FAQs and article files linked (in blue, at top). See you in a while. Bob Fenner>

Plumbing Dilemma...
I just acquired a 70 gallon reef ready tank . its got 3 holes on the bottom of the tank  and 2 on one of the ends about 2/3 to 3/4 the way up. I have two canister filters and I'm not sure how to plumb this set up. As of right now I'm not sure if I'm going fresh or salt but I've got to get this plumbing thing figured out.
<The fun part...LOL>
Should the return lines be on the bottom of the tank with check valves in case power out age?
<Frankly, check valves scare the hell out of me! They are vulnerable to failure...at the most unfortunate times... I'd prefer something above the water line, like Sea Swirls, which have the added benefit of oscillating water flow...Neat stuff...>
And the line feeding into the pumps be the ones on the side? I just can't find any info out for this kind of tank.
<Well, there are about as many approaches to tank plumbing as there are hobbyists...No real right or wrong answers...Just do what works or you, and remains reliable and functional...>
I'd really appreciate your help  , and maybe I'm way off , any suggestions ?
<As above...check out Sea Swirls for returns...>
I'm lost. Thanks. Sean McConnell
<Well, Sean-there are lots of approaches here...you can look into plumbing on the WWM site...lots of good information here- check it out! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Magnum 350 10/5/03
I recently acquired a used Magnum 350 canister filter. How do I set it up? Thanks, Cherie
<hmmm... I'm not sure I/we can best serve you by a less than clear and long explanation of this product via e-mail. Let me ask you to help yourself (better) by archiving the manufacturers website... and seeking a local aquarium society (excellent source of such information and advice to see and work hands-on). You might also try out www.wetwebmedia.com forum for fellow users that can share insight. Best regards, Anthony>

Magnum 350 Manual 10/5/03
For the person who bought the used Magnum 350, the owner's manual can be downloaded from this link: http://www.marineland.com/products/manuals/magnum_manual.pdf  Steve Allen
<outstanding follow-up, Steve. Thanks kindly :) Anthony>

Eheim 2028 filter
Hi there,
<Hello>
I currently have a Fluval 404 filter and am thinking of changing it to an Eheim Pro II 2028 model.
<A wise choice>
My aquarium size is 6 foot x2  foot x 1.5 foot.  Would it be a better move to change the filter or is the Fluval one able to handle my tank size.
<Don't know what you're intending to keep... you may need more or something different entirely than either of these canister filters, but of the choice between the two, I'd go with the Eheim (I have two of these models. More flow, quieter, longer-lasting products.>
If you could reply back to me, then that would be most appreciated.
Thanks!
Janine Kennedy
<Bob Fenner>

Fluval burning out...
Dear WWM,
There is a problem that I often have with my powerheads propeller.
<FYI, it's called an impeller. A propeller is something that goes on a plane :) >
If I unplug it and it stops, probably half of the time it will not start up properly the next time.  The only method I can come up with is to poke at it with the end of a pencil and eventually it will start up.  The problem I am having now has to do with a Fluval 303 canister filter.  I have it set up properly (as far as I can tell, I bought it on eBay so there are no directions) but the propeller will not start.  There is definitely power, the propeller will kind of slowly meander back and forth, only covering about 40% of the total circle it is supposed to do before reversing and going back the other way.  I have tried jump starting it with a wire, but it will not keep going.  It sometimes will start zipping around the full circle for a few seconds but then will stall out.  I'm not really sure what to do, any advice would be appreciated.
<Sounds like the pump itself and not the impeller. A quick check to see if your impeller is broken is to hold it by the magnet part and try to spin the blades. They should only turn 90-180 degrees, and not all the way around freely. If this is the case, the impeller is broken. Try cleaning out the impeller chamber as well as the impeller itself and try to restart it. It is likely that the motor is on its way out so you may want to contact Hagen or your LFS for a replacement motor. Good luck! -Kevin>
Thanks,
Scott

Canister for carbon?
Thanks for the response.  I wanted to follow up on the canister filter.  If it is going to be empty is it even necessary?  What is the benefit of running it empty? <If you don't already have one, don't buy one, it's just a convenient place to run carbon> Regarding the charcoal, what do you mean by periodically? <Once a month for a few days> Should I put in charcoal for a week and then remove it and let it run empty for the next three weeks? <Pretty much, but run it for only a few days> Or should I just leave it in for a month or 2 months without changing it? <No, it will leach back into the water stuff that it has already removed and become a nutrient trap> Is their another option (HOT power filter)? <Any old hang on power filter will do the trick, just need a high flow area for the carbon, even throwing a bag in a sump> I would rather not get into sumps even though it is probably the best route. <Oh, well scratch that last idea!> I also forgot to mention that I was going to add 2-3 powerheads for circulation.  Would you recommend 2 or 3? <Depends, see how the flow is with 2, if you still have dead spots add another, maybe even 2 more.>
Thanks for your help! <No prob! -Kevin>

LR and Canister Filter and Big Fish
Hi crew ...
Simply, you guys are the best !!!
<Thanks.>
I have a 30g tank with 2 damsels, 2 angel fishes (Koran & Flagfin) and a snowflake eel. I also have only 15 lbs of LR, an Eheim Ecco canister filter and DSB "South Down" not live, unless it turns live after sometime in the system).
<30 gallons is way too small for these fish.  I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you are setting your self up for failure.  The Koran is a big fish, it will reach approx 15in in a large enough system.  The Flag Fin can reach 10in, and the Snowflake can reach around 30in. Honestly I would start looking for a much larger tank (a few hundred gallons), or find new homes for everybody but the damsels.  That being said, the sand will become live in a matter of times>
My question. Can I and/or when can I be able to remove the canister filter, gradually of course ?? The reason why I'm asking is that I want to set up a small separate tank to cure LR from online retailers and add the rock (after being cured) to the main display.
<Do you have any other filtration on this tank besides the canister, if you had a good skimmer, some more live rock, and a lighter fish load, I would remove the canister.  Also, please read the links below for more information on your current inhabitants.  Best Regards, Gage
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/angels/pomacanthus/koran.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/snowflakemoray.htm >
Thanks for the help in advance as always.
Regards,
Ash

Re: Equipment List, Lighting and Water Flow
Thank you for the feedback. I am glad to see that my research on WWM and in the Conscientious Aquarist has sunk in.
I have a follow up question on the Emperor 400. Would you recommend using the bio wheels, or removing them? I have seen a few instances in FAQ where removing them has been recommended. Will the 55lbs of live rock and 4 inches of sand you recommend provide enough bio filtration, or should I use the bio wheels to supplement?   
<My only experience with using a power filter that has bio-wheels is based on what I have read and heard from others. That information has been that the wheels can become a source of nitrate. A ways back I was give a bio- wheel filter and am using it on my QT. What I did was remove the wheels and get a block of foam and cut chunks to fit inside the chambers of the filter to act as bio-media. If you have not purchased the powerfilter yet, I would suggest that you run the tank with live rock/sand only as this combo will provide a huge bio filter. Think of all the nooks and crannies where the good stuff can live in the rock and all the surface area of that sugar fine sand. With a good skimmer, reasonable bio-load, and good husbandry practices, this is likely all you will need. Don>
Thanks again for your help.
<No problem, continue as you are researching needs before making purchases
and you will be happy with the outcome>
David

What Is That Gunk?
Hi,
<Hi there! Scott F. with you today!>
Week ago, I installed a new canister filter (Eheim Pro II 2026) in my 55gal tank. Two days ago, after cleaning the filter (had some feeder shrimp sucked into the filter through the Eheim surface extractor) and a 20% water change, I noticed some white patches/spots on the filter tubing (only on the flexible tubes - ate least that's where it is prominently visible). Not sure if it was there before I cleaned the filter though, but I noticed it only afterwards. Wondering if anyone has experienced anything like this before and if it is harmful to my fish and the plants. Any info/advice on how to remove this would also be most welcome.
<Well, hard to say from here- but it could be anything from a "biofilm" of Cyanobacteria (yes- they can be whitish, too) to a sponge, or even some kind of sponge...Probably harmless, if water parameters are acceptable otherwise>
Oh.. yeah... while the filter is operational if you tap the tubes, it will come off and float around in the aquarium (looks like a whitish film).
<Ahh...sounds like some kind of Cyano to me...just keep o top of basic husbandry, and things should be okay>
Thks n Rgds, KC.
<No problem, K.C.- hang in there! Regards, Scott F>

Filters and RO/DI
Hi guys hope you are well. I need some advice again please. I currently have a 100g reef tank with live sand, live rock, and a Fluval 404. I have recently purchased a 125 g tank with a 20 g sump. Should I get rid of the Fluval 404 and can I utilize instead by making new salt water mixes and top off water? Do I have to have a RO/DI filter?
<Hi Werner, the Fluval is a great piece of equipment, if you keep it clean.
Personally, I am kinda lazy and would not give the device the attention it needs so I don't these types of filters. I would think it would work well in the new mix solution. Or, you could use it as a carbon only container.
As far at RO/DI, I would have the source (tap) water checked to see how far out of whack it is. Then if there are high concentrations
of stuff you don't want, use the RO/DI (or just DI, higher output/less waste.
Hope the helps, Don>
Werner

Inline UV Question
Can I run an Eheim 2213 canister filter inline with my Aquanetics 8watt UV sterilizer?  This is for a 37 gallon fish only marine tank.
<You can but it will affect flow rate some.  Craig>

Re: Flow question in a seahorse tank (03/11/03)
Thanks for the info Ananda;
<No problem>
I like your idea about the Fluval.  I checked some of them out.  If I got rid of the power filter and went with the Fluval would my tank get enough oxygen.  
<Sure. It's just a matter of directing the water flow.>
The do have a spray bar that you can get to attach to the Fluval
<You could also make one of tubing (bring the powerhead part of the filter to the Home Depot/Lowe's/etc and pick the tubing that fits), with suction cups to hold the tubing where you want it....>
and I could run it along the back of the tank, maybe like, across the top quarter of the back wall.  I know as long as you get a good ripple across the surface of the water, you will be getting enough oxygen in the tank.
Does that sound right to you????
<Yup.>
Thanks again;
Kevin
<You're welcome. --Ananda>

Pumping ability of Canister Filters??
Hi Guys
I have a long octagonal tank (approx. 52cm diameter and 130cm height) which I am in the process of setting up. I wrote to you only recently about the type of fish that would be suitable for such a tank esp. Discus. Thank you for your reply. Now I am on the hunt for a decent canister filter and it would appear that an Eheim filter would be hard to pass by?
<Yes, an excellent choice for Discus with their low-flow return manifold design. No big current but adequate flow rate, larger capacity canister.>
Now a rep from my LFS has said something that has got me thinking. My column tank will be sitting on a base approx. 60cm high. It is in this base (below the tank) that I intend to store my canister). Now from the ground and including the height of the tank I need to find a canister filter that can pump to the top of this display (approx. 190cm or approx 6ft). My LFS believes that I am going to be hard pressed to find a canister that will be able to "pump" this high?
<This height is manageable. Most canisters are designed for 24" tanks (about 48 cm) and 30-36" (60-70cm) stands with the canister on the floor of the stand. So, you need a bit of height. How about get the next biggest size based on flow rate/capacity and place canister on a shelf in the stand to shorten the head height?>
Now please correct me if I am wrong. It is my belief that a canister filter only "sucks" water from the tank??
<No, it pushes water up to the tank and the product of pushing water out of the canister helps fuel the siphon back to the canister, but it must *push* water up to do this.  This is one of those basic gravity deals. Water will not run uphill and there is no such thing as perpetual motion or something for nothing!>
And by virtue of the fact that the whole unit is "full" of water from the initial priming of the canister that any sucking in of the water at the inlet valve will immediately displace the water
contained in the unit through the outlet valve?
<Nope, it will just fill it up and then stop, unless pumped up to the tank by the canister motor.>  There is no way to siphon uphill!>
So in effect there really is no outlet pumping required only inlet pumping (sucking) if you get my reasoning?
<Oh Jeff, just reverse this reasoning completely and you are there!
It is just exactly opposite! Pump up, passive flow (suck) down. Pump up comes before suck down.  Like a bathtub. If the water is running, the drain will only drain what is delivered, the drain doesn't pull the water any faster that it is pumped.>
So then do I need to be concerned with where the actual intake hose is in relation to the unit (considering that the inlet hose will be submerged into the tank approx. two thirds of the way
down bringing it closer to the actual canister filter (housed under the tank) or is the actual height of the display still an issue??
<The height (referred to as "head height" is the primary factor combined with the flow rate/capacity of the Eheim in question. These canisters are a lower flow design than some others to begin with as they have a bigger canister capacity, so buying the larger size canister with added power will help, as will raising the canister closer to the top of your tank. Hence the shelf idea. Raising the canister somewhere near the height of a standard tank and stand will suffice. 4' is not a problem for a canister. Please go to Eheim's web page and study their set-ups. You will see they place the canister on the floor of a stand and pump up and over as you will. Just shorten the distance as much as practical to increase flow/decrease head height.>
And if it is an issue then what's a man suppose to do?? What do I do to get over the max. head height of these canister filters. If these units are rated with a max. head height then the maximum flow rates that these companies publish must be in relation to min. head heights (meaning a tank that is very low in relation to the filter) rather than maximum head heights. And as soon as you start to increase this distance you compromise the flow rate. So what I thought may have been a 1000L flow rate per hour may in fact be much much less than this because of the height of my tank.
<Well, You do have it then! This is quite correct. The ratings are for standard head heights, IE: standard tanks. Non-standard or higher head height demands more power (larger canister and greater flow rate, OR decreasing head height by cheating as above by raising the canister higher or closer to the top of your tank!>
Now I am starting to think powerheads inline with the filtration system to assist the water back up into the tank once it has been through the canister filter? (Pull me up here if you think that I am way off the track))
<Okay.....glug, glug, glug.  No need Mate!  They make them (Eheims) big enough for your needs without worry. Do see the photos of them on the floor at the Eheim site. I have one and it pumps just fine from the floor up a 36" stand and a 20" tank. Yours isn't that much more that it can't be overcome with a larger model (more media capacity is also a plus with Discus).>
I wait eagerly for your reply. Confusingly yours, Jeff
<Hope this helps with the confusion Jeff. If not please write back! Good on ya! Craig>

Media Replacement And Skimmer Choices?
Gracias sir!
<No problem!>
"Do a little research on the WWM site about these fishes" I'm in there now...digging ;).  As far as the foam media in both the H.O.T. and Fluval is once a month "regular", I see that everyone pretty much agrees on once a month for the carbon but could the same be said for the foam media as well?
<Good question! I really like to get in the habit of weekly cleanings on these sponges. You will be amazed at the amount of yucky stuff that accumulates in 'em after just a few days, then breaks down. It's a bit of a pain to change them so often- but a great habit!>
As far as the skimmer is concerned I looked at my tank today and then looked at the skimmer and said to myself "hmmmm that thing is a bit small isn't it" but if I can get my $75 out of it for a while and upgrade in the future I think that's probably what I'll do. Thanx again. Kevin
<Well, Kevin- you could nurse along a second-rate skimmer for a while...But if it were me- I'd curse and kick and scream and then buy a better skimmer from the start...Better off in the long run, IMO! Good luck! Scott F>

Eheim Canister Filter
Hey WWMCrew!
I recently purchased an Eheim 2217 canister filter.  My plan was to place the intake and return tubes in my sump.  In the manual it states to place the unit below the water level.  The sumps' water level would be below the top of the canister filter.  I don't want the intake and return tubes in my display tank.  Is there anyway around this?
Thanks,
Jeremy
<Mmm, yes... you can/could place both the intake and discharge lines deep in the sump (to prevent loss of prime should the power fail, or the water level drop too low) and "suck" up water into the Eheim via the discharge side to fill the unit and intake line with water... and do this every time you find yourself servicing the canister. Bob Fenner>

Substrate, canister filter removal
<Greetings, JasonC here...>
I hope you can give me some advice. <So do I...> I have a 30 gallon reef setup with a magnum 350 with bio or pro-wheels, BakPak 2r skimmer, 2 zoomed powerheads and JBJ 144 watt white-blue lighting. Also about 1" coral gravel substrate. The tank uses no sump, and  no plenum; It has been running for about a year. Ammonia =0, nitrite=o, nitrate=10 ppm. Right now all I have is a couple of mushrooms, an orange polyp, 3 peppermint shrimp (great Aiptasia eaters), and a small maroon clown. All other corals died last summer, too hot-no chiller {learned lesson - bought a chiller}. I am concerned with the nitrates and the fact that I think the coral substrate is becoming stagnant {no denitrification going on here}. <Well... it's not deep enough to promote denitrification. You need a true deep sand bed for that - at least four inches, five to six would be better.> In about 2 I'll be adding several corals and fishes from a friend, so  the nitrates will skyrocket. I want to get things ready so I already added some SeaChem combination carbon - phosguard+denitrator media. I should have used sand instead [I know], Can I know add some live sand on top of the gravel { my friend is also offering some live sand} or should I remove all crush coral. <I think you can mix, but you really need a good deal of sand, and I'd get started on this now rather than later.> I've also thought about removing canister filter and going with just a sump, but I have no clue how to do this. <Well, start by making sure you've got other filtration and circulation that will speak for the loss of the canister - then, simply remove it.> For now I would really like to add some live sand but don't know if I can, and in the future would like remove canister altogether. <You can do both.>
Please help me with my immediate problem and also advice on how to build a sump. <For sump building, please read our FAQs on the subject: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/sumprffiltfaqs.htm >
thanks
André
<Cheers, J -- >

Going Sleeveless?
Hello,
<Hi there! Scott F. with you today>
Thanks for all of your help, I have through trial and error and research got quite a nice looking (in the beginning stages) reef tank going.
<Awesome!>
First info.  55 gallon reef tank.  Approximately 90 lbs live rock, 3 1/2 inch live sand bed, 4 x 65 watt pc light. CPR BakPak skimmer, 2 Rio 1400, one Rio 800 for circulation and one Fluval 404 with blue filter media and carbon. (all media changed/or cleaned weekly)
<That's what I'm talkin' about, baby! Good idea!>
Currently have one yellow tang, mandarin goby, coral banded shrimp, and three small corals. Like I said-beginning stages. Change 15 gallons every two weeks, add Str, iodine and calcium (400)
Everything seems good water is fine nitrates 10 or less tank has been up for over two years, converted to reef about 1 yr ago.
My question is this, I like the idea of having a Fluval for removal of detritus, water movement, as well as just having 2 or so more gallons of water stability, gives me a weekly water change too. When I clean the pads they are always brown to some extent.
<Yep- exactly why you should keep changing those pads weekly or more often, folks! Those pads do a great job at trapping detritus and organic matter...But if it stays in the tank, it can begin to degrade water quality and increase nitrate levels, etc>
Is it worth keeping for just those reasons or would you just add a CPR refugium with PolyFilter/carbon and get rid of it completely. Money isn't that tight, but I am gonna get refugium anyway so one less outlet and one more free power outlet would be nice.
<I can relate to that! I like natural systems, and like the idea of using the refugium or sump as a "settling area" for detritus and processing of organic nutrients. Once again, I see no harm in mechanical filtration as long as the media is serviced regularly. The only real hang up I have about mechanical filtration is that most of us tend to neglect the service aspect...>
But I do see detritus in filter weekly, if I keep changing it weekly, will that keep nitrates from growing there?
<It will help...You may want to experiment without the mechanical filtration and see what your live rock and (deep) sand bed do with nitrate levels. Also- consider more frequent (2 times a week) 5% tank volume water changes...that will help dilute nitrates before they can even build up>
There are many schools of thought on canister filters yeah or nay, but I am all for getting rid of another piece of machinery/chore if not worth using.  How about just running it empty for extra water stability, current.
<Yes...but if you're looking for current, better served by using that outlet for an external top-mount pump, like a Gemini or a Tunze...those pumps rock!>
I know I am splitting hairs here, but I believe in optimizing my resources. If getting another skimmer would do the same thing I am all for it.
<Two skimmers is good, but one well-tuned, properly maintained skimmer should do it>
One more thing, I have seen those small Fluval filters that go inside the tank. Could I just run one of those a week a month for my carbon? If so how much carbon do you recommend using, so I know which one to buy?
<I run carbon continuously on a passive basis in my sump (in mesh bags), about 4-6 oz.s, and rotate them out every other week, along with Poly Filter...I'd rather do that than have an ugly internal filter in the tank (at least that's my thinking). I like Seachem Matrix carbon, but there are lots of good brands out there. Just look for a phosphate free brand with good quality reputation.>
Thanks for your help in any way.
<Any time. Have fun with your system! Regards, Scott F>

Eheim Canister filter
Hi WWMCrew,
After reading through the faq's, I'm considering the purchase of a Eheim 2215 canister filter for chemical filtration (using Chemi-pure and poly-filters as media).  I'm a little confused though.  I have live rock for biological filtration, so I don't need the Eheim biological media.  What else do I put in the filter to pack it?  
<Mechanical media like Grob and Fein Flocken... their Bio-Mech... in addition to the chemical media you list>
Doesn't the filter need to be fully packed?
<Mmm, "fully-packed"? The canister does not "need" to be completely filled, or have any given arrangement of types of media inserted in it>
I can't just throw in a bag of Chemi-pure and a poly-filter and call it good can I?
<Oh, yes... but best to place between (sandwich) two pieces of mechanical media (to keep most of the gunk off of the chemical media)>
It I use poly-filters should I cut them into round disks to fit the Eheim?
<Can do, or just fold and fit>
Also, Eheim makes an activated carbon disk.  Their media is round and fills the entire diameter of the filter (7.3 inches), a bag of pure-pure isn't big enough to cover the entire diameter of the filter.  To me it seems like the Eheim media would be more efficient because there would be less pass through.
<In actual practice, no big difference... for many years we (the service co.) would place two units of Chemipure, replace one intermittently>
It doesn't seem like pure-pure in this situation would be much better than just placing it in a sump (the water is going to pass around the bag either way).
<Better in the canister... with the sandwiching described above>
My understanding of the Eheim 2200 series (aka classic series) is that there are no media baskets.
There is one large chamber that you pack with media.
<Correct>
If my goal is to add pure-pure, would I be better off purchasing a filter with media baskets like a Fluval or Eheim Ecco?
<My choice is the canister, the Ecco, and Fluval in that order>
Thanks for your time and patience,
Jeremy
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

- Magnum Canister Question -
<Greetings, JasonC here...>
I have a 90 gal tank with 90 lbs Kaelini rock that has been curing for 4 weeks. my numbers seem fine.. sg 1.023..ph-8.5? I do not have any fish yet but should in a bout a week. have been doing weekly 30-40 gal changes...last week my water had a yellow tinge to it. the crew suggested might be high in nutrients that will explode when lighted finally go on. I bought a magnum 350(have a protein skimmer giving at least 2 cups per week) and I am using carbon. how often should I change the carbon? <I like to keep in a batch of carbon no more than two weeks. You don't really need to run it constantly, and should perhaps go two weeks on and two weeks off.> should I leave this running permanently with carbon or should I use it as needed to let skimmer/rock/1.5 inches fine sand do its work? <As needed.> if I use carbon as needed can I use the same carbon after it sits/ also with this filter they give a micron filter for polishing. <No, the 'active' quality of carbon is typically spent in a week or so, sometime less.> how long do you run this? <No more than two weeks.> instructions say to clean cartridge you mix 1 part bleach to 3 parts h20, immerse overnight, rinse until chlorine smell disappears and reuse...is this wise to do? <Unless you like to purchase replacement filters all the time, it's really your only choice. I would also leave it out in the sun for a day or two.> ...thanks for your help!
<Cheers, J -- >

- Filter Media -
hello to all, <Greetings, JasonC here...>
As I've read through thousands of your very very helpful FAQs, I see that it is mentioned that the bio material in wet/dry's are the cause for a nitrate factory.  I am currently running a Fluval 404 on my salt-going to reef-tank and I'm running those little BioMax cylinders and active carbon.  Would it be a wise move to remove the bio-material and just run carbon and poly filter in my canister filter? <Not using this canister filter, no. If a full-blown reef is what you want to do, it would be wiser to consider entirely new filtration gear to replace the Eheim.> I've got a 65g, w/ 60lbs of liverock and protein skimmer. <Might be time for a sump/refugium.>
Thanks,
Jason
Surfs up!
<Cheers, J -- >

Re: Canister filter (water flow)
Hello,
I have a 54 gal. corner tank which I bought with an under gravel filter.  I just bought and installed a Fluval 304 canister filter as well.  My question is regarding the current the new filter creates.  How much is O.K.?  I have the filter valve partially closed to slow it down a little for now.  When the valve is open all the way the current is pretty strong in my tank.  Any advise would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Kurt Will  
<Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/circmarart.htm the same principles apply to freshwater circulation considerations.
Bob Fenner>

Canister filter in the grand scheme of marine filtration
Hi to all,
I talked to Craig I believe (55 gal corner bow magnum 350 and Russelli Lion),
I am getting an Aqua C Remora  and wondering what to do with my magnum canister filter.  I was wondering if the magnum would work with a micron filter with a blue filter sponge around it and a small bag of carbon tucked in on the side.  Is there any need to have the whole carbon holder full of carbon?  It takes about 16 oz. of carbon.  Incidentally I have looked for carbon cheaper and have found that the price per ounce is pretty consistent at 30 cents per ounce.  The places that sell it at a discount add so much shipping that the price bumps right back up even with my LFS.  I have found a supplier at 10 cents an ounce but it is a water conditioning company.  They use it for drinking water.  Any reason that I can't use that?  Again thanks for your help   Bryan Flanigan and Piggy the Lion
<Hi Bryan, You can run it this way but the filter is designed to pull water through all of the media so there can be no bypassing of water through the media. Setting it up this way will fully use the micron filter and only partially use the carbon.  The maintenance of this filter in your situation is weekly, so it is best to alternate these media's, and use the micron filter only sparingly, once a month for a week is fine.  The carbon can be used constantly. The carbon is likely the same activated carbon you purchase.  I would fill the container completely or the water will simply flow around all that carbon you bought. If price is a huge issue, change carbon every two weeks, no longer.  Hope this helps!  Craig>  

Marineland Magnum Filter
Please comment on Marineland's reply to my original message.  The Magnum 350 pumps 350 gallons per hour which is more than most canisters.  How come other brands of canisters pump the same or less and are rated for 150+ gallon tanks?
<I generally don't like any of the Marineland filtration products. IMO none of them perform efficiently, all are expensive to run, they offer little or no flexibility in use/setup, and because Marineland has proprietary equipment, you can only replace media/parts with other Marineland items. Why do they do this? Because it creates a permanent customer base! Pretty smart...Huh? The discrepancy in ratings that you sight is due to the fact that the filtration you will get with the micron filter is less than the filtration you would get with other types of media or combinations of media. Remember that flexibility issue? The only thing that you can do with this filter is run the micron sleeve. Other filters you can use various media types or combinations; an important thing to consider. Before purchasing this item, please look closely at the cost of replacing the micron filter (about $8.00) and how often this will need to be done (probably weekly depending on bioload). I had an Eclipse system for about 3 years and it got expensive buying those filter cartridges...and the y didn't really provide much quality filtration>
It seems the Magnum 350 with the fluidized bed should be plenty of filtration without needing to supplement with another filter.
What do you think?  
<If you use a good filter the fluidized bed will actually be overkill IMO. However, there would be no harm in using both methods (other than nitrate production) and redundancy is good in aquaria. Do yourself a favor...Check out either a Fluval 404 (about the same price as the Marineland item), or Eheim (more expensive). DrsFostersSmith.com have really good prices on these items. As always, all of the above is my opinion but...I am speaking from experience! David Dowless>
Please email reply.  Drew

What to do with my canister?
Well, I must say I enjoy reading your site.
It cracks me up when someone writes in criticizing you guys.  It's not like you force them to come to your site or read your answers for that matter.  My tank has been so much more relaxing since I started listening to you guys.  (It was way overcrowded).
Hi Bryan (and piggy), Thanks for the support.  Who knows, some folks just have a bad day, what can we do?>
I have just about got the money together for a aqua c remora skimmer and I will order it in about two weeks.  I have a 55 gal corner bowfront with a 350 magnum canister. I need to know what to do with the canister.  I have constant problems with nitrate creep.  There is only one large lion in there, but he is such a messy eater.  My LFS says that I don't need a skimmer, and that I should easily be able to fit 3-4 large fish in there, after all they will only grow as big as the tank.  Well, I have to agree with you all that is bull.  So, I have quit going there altogether.  Now to get to my plan,  Aqua C on the back and a micron filter in the canister.  Then a small bag of carbon in the canister with the micron filter.  Does that sound all right?  Do I need a filter pad around the micron?  They seem to collect junk and raise the nitrates.  How much carbon do I need?  The current arrangement holds about 6 bucks worth of carbon which since I change it every two weeks really mounts up.  I am trying to provide a good home for my lion and also keep the long term costs down as I am also saving for my masterpiece a 500 gal FOWLR.  Here is the last question.  I can feed him anything frozen right?  We cook seafood once a week and I have been cutting up some of my fish (flounder, halibut, salmon, jumbo shrimp) and freezing it for him.  Go ahead ask how I know it's a him. Any way thanks for your input in advance. Bryan Flanigan and Piggy the Lion fish
<I use an old Magnum filter on one of my systems and I use it mainly for carbon and occasional micron filtration to polish water or remove sediments like when adding aragonite. Both the micron filter and the carbon canister will hold up better with the blue filter pad to collect the big stuff instead of getting lodged in the micron filter and it needing replacement. The carbon really needs to be replaced at least every two weeks (weekly is better) to prevent it from becoming a nitrate producing biofilter, along with the filter pad, but this is the price we pay. I would suggest buying carbon in bulk, on sale or on-line to hold prices down. The carton costs more than the measly amount of carbon they sell you, so cut out as much packaging as possible. Too bad Costco doesn't carry carbon, especially with lions, eels and cichlids!  The frozen food is fine. Frankly, I have never had an issue with fresh seafood as I live in the Pacific Northwest and feed it sometimes myself, but some also warn against this. This is a personal choice, but be mindful of potential problems with parasites, etc.  Craig>

A Little Off The Top, Please!
Hi
<Hi there! Scott F. with you today>
I have a 40G marine tank with 20Kg of live rock, a yellow tang, 2 regal tangs, 2 percula clowns, a mandarin blenny, a scooter blenny and a chalk goby. I am running a prism protein skimmer hanging off the back of the tank which appears to be working ok but I appear to have a film on top of the water surface.
There are a couple of power heads agitating the water and I have 2 Eheim 2026's running also. Do you have any suggestions on getting rid of the film.
Darren Coughlan
<Well, Darren- accumulated organics tend to stay on the surface and form a film when there is little or no surface agitation. By pulling water from the surface, you'll be removing a lot of this stuff directly. Eheim makes a "surface extractor" attachment that fits on the intake of your 2026. You can purchase it from any dealer that sells Eheim filters. Give it a try- it should work well! Regards, Scott F.>

- Canning the Canisters -
Hi, I need help <Ok, I will do my best. JasonC here at your service.>
First I have a 90g tank that is set up for a year know. I have a Fluval 404, and 204 set up on it. I am know starting to set it up for a reef. I just purchased a wet / dry. I was told that instead of getting a protein skimmer, I can use the ecosystem hang on 60. Would you recommend going that way? <I would can the wet/dry and do both the Ecosystem and the skimmer.> If its ok what is the best way to set up both systems, and removing the Fluvals? <Go slowly.> My second question is ever since I took my 2 lion fish, and snow flake eel out of the tank and replaced them with 2 maroon clowns, 1 coral beauty, and a cardinal fish. I also have 2 sea anemones for the clowns. I have noticed that there is a lot of air bubbles forming on the bottom of my tank. <Perhaps that new wet/dry filter... I'd suspect that much more than the mix of fish.> Plus I have also added a JBJ lighting system. I have noticed that I have more algae growing on the bottom of my tank. <Stands to reason that this is a result of that new lighting.>
Thank You,  
Chris
<Cheers, J -- >

- More on Livestock Selection -
Hello Jason,
<Greetings...>
Thanks for the quick response!  A quick one...the Eheim is a 2250 rated up to 264g, by "increasing my filtration" should I jump up to the 2260 rated at 400g?  Again, many thanks to you for your kind advice. <Well, canister filters have one problem... they get dirty, and when that happens, their flow rate is diminished. It's a design issue, and one that can only be worked around by very diligent cleaning. Even then, a reduction in flow in the tank can/will cause problems. Perhaps a second of the same canister so that you can clean on an alternating schedule, if canisters are your only option. There are many others discussed here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/filtration/marineFiltr.htm >
Michael
<Cheers, J -- >

Filtration Problems II
Thank You so much for your reply, and so prompt :-) ! I've never heard of Trickle Filters. Where could I find these?
<If you go to Yahoo or Google or some other search engine, you will get a lot of hits on trickle filtration. Trickle filters are a type of wet/dry, biological filtration. These are excellent, but unlikely to work with your setup due to space constraints. You would also need to have your tank drilled for water to overflow to the trickle filter.>
Ah, sounds like sound advice. It's not just the brand of filter, it's not enough filters!
<Yes>
I shall save up and add another. Once a month would be heaven :-) I should never have to change the cylinders that the bacteria grow on, correct?
<Correct, the ceramic-like rings that the Fluval comes with never needs replaced. After prolonged use you may want to rinse them in some tank water to dislodge any debris.>
Just rinse the sponges and change the floss?
<Yes, but I would use the sponges, ceramic rings, and activated carbon, perhaps some ammonia removing media, instead of the filter floss.>
I'm learning a lot and I appreciate the time spent, as I know you people have got to be so busy.
<Oh, we do get swamped some days, but our crew is large enough now to handle most of the mail.>
My Best ~Robyn~ Happy Holidays!
<And you too! -Steven Pro>

Eheim Canister Filters
Hi
I recently bought an EHEIM wet&dry 2227 filter and I don't know if its working right !
I filled the baskets with EHFISUBSTRAT PRO ( Eheim says : " All filter baskets must be filled with EHFISUBSTRAT up to the rim " ) and then I put the white sponge filter on top (the one for 2227) and then filled the filter with water by sucking air through the small breathing tube. The suction valve was open and the pressure valve was closed at that time.
I start running the filter and after a while water was flowing out slowly and from the other side it was filling with water.
The filter makes strange noises as if water is flowing inside and its very annoying. It sounds more like a vacuum cleaner !!!
<This is the air and water mixing in and about the pump impeller... a good idea to turn the unit off, let the water rise in the volute (the space around the impeller), then turn it back on... doing this a few times should clear the air out entirely, and make the unit very quiet>
I checked everything (hoses tight, if there are any bends to the tube, if the baskets fit well) and it seems that there is not a problem.
I use another EHEIM filter (2217) and its completely quiet and noiseless !
Another thing that bothers me is that water comes out constantly and I don't see any changes in the pressure.
<Once again, this is due to the cavitation, the air and water mixing together... once you get the air out of the volute, you'll see>
From what I know in these filters the outlet pressure varies.
There is a wet&dry cycle that constantly goes on and the outlet pressure varies during this cycle.
I don't know if I explained well my problem but first of all I want to know why it makes these weird sounds and second if the filter works properly.
Thank you in advance for your help.
George K.
<A very common situation... and one that can/will be solved with the simple protocol mentioned. Bob Fenner>

Eheim Wet-Dry Unit... more than cavitation at play
Thank you for your reply.
<You're welcome>
When I turn it off and back on again I get a very loud noise and the motor gets very heated.
<Not good... leave unplugged till it cools down... and until we discover the cause of the problem>
I left it like that and the filter stopped by itself...maybe for the motor to cool down a little.
I took the impeller off and it was very hot !
<Was there anything caught around the impeller spindle? Do check for a minute piece of filter media>
When I turn it off the floater goes up all the way then after a while and after the loud noise stops it starts emptying and the pressure is very high till it drops to a constant low water flow.
<Ahhh, perhaps there is a good kink in a line (either intake or discharge. Try this: Check both loops to ascertain whether there is a kink that is limiting water flow, and take the discharge line off, place in a bucket (all this with the pump turned off), to determine as well if there isn't either a twist, kink in the line or some other area of internal blockage. If the water does not flow freely (siphoning from the intake line, through the unit, into your bucket via the discharge line), do take the whole unit off the tank, dis-assemble it in a sink or tub, and check for blockage in the unit, lines there>
Then the floater goes all the way down and NEVER goes up again !
<I suspect either a "good" air gap in a line, or a blockage inside the unit>
Then the wet-dry cycle doesn't come back again as it should be and it keeps working like that!
(I changed all the o-rings with new ones-I was told that maybe this was the problem).
<Shouldn't have anything to do with the problem... the o-rings either work and the unit doesn't leak... or...>
Help ... I am so confused! Thank you, George
<Please read through the above. Have you been to Eheim's website? http://www.eheim.com/
Bob Fenner>

Eheim
I am setting up a 75 gal. saltwater fish only tank. I am considering using a wet-dry filter, either a SeaLife Systems Pro-150 or an Eheim wet-dry filter. Would you give me the pros and cons of each of these filters?
<This information is catalogued at wetwebmedia.com In general, the problem is the same...they will both generate nitrates in the long term...The wet/dry will need almost no maintenance but the canister will need to be cleaned and "reloaded" regularly. Ooops...I'm sorry...Do you mean an Eheim wet/dry? Of all of the high quality products that Eheim makes, their wet/dry is a dud. I wouldn't use it at all. Their canister filters are some of the best on the market>
Would either be considerably “better” over the long haul, e.g. ease of maintenance, efficacy, better oxygenation, less noisy, etc.???  
<A wet/dry will be fine if you have a heavy bioload and you don't plan on keeping corals. It will be practically no maintenance and as quiet as your return pump is.. Just the sound of the water cascading over the bioballs. You can also submerge the bioballs to decrease the nitrate effect>
It seems from your FAQs that many people use the Eheim canisters but not the wet-dries
<Most of us don't care for the wet/dries made by Eheim>
Are you familiar with Sealife Systems (they seem relatively pricey)?
<Sorry...I'm not familiar with that brand. A wet/dry is simply a tub full of tank water. No need to spend a lot of money>
My next question involves water filters- I live in a rural area and have a water well, i.e. my water is not municipally provided. Does well water typically present fewer or more problems in regards to quality?
<I can't answer this question with generalities. Every rural well is different. No way to tell what's in the water unless you test it. For the above reason, well water is generally more problematic. If you had municipal water, you could get results of water tests from the water company that would tell you exactly what you're up against...>
I have not had any testing done but, obviously, I would not have to worry about things like added chlorine.
<Municipalities also filter out many other things that we don't want in our tanks...And to be quite honest...municipalities allow some things like nitrates and phosphates that we don't want...>
Are there any sorts of elements that I should be particularly concerned about?
<Well...this is not really an easy answer...nitrates, phosphates, silica, metals of all kinds, PH...that would be a good start. Are your pipes copper? Many of these tests could be run with simple water test equipment like we use for our fish tanks.>
I guess there is always the (remote?)  possibility of ground water contamination.
<I certainly hope that isn't the case!!>
I am considering purchasing a reverse osmosis filter from Home Depot for about $200. I would like your thoughts on all of this in light of the fact that I will have a fish only tank but would really like to provide a good quality of water.
<Dude. skip the RO. GO DI. RO leaves way too much waste water...An email that I responded to the other day stated that their RO filter took 10 gallons to produce one gallon of pure water!! As a comparison, DI has no waste water...Go DI>
By the way, I would like a substrate to go on the bottom of my tank that is black in color. Is there anything available (that would also be pretty easy to keep clean with routine vacuuming)?
<Keep the bed really thin like 1/2 inch or less and stay away from the volcanic stuff. The larger the grain the easier it will catch and hold detritus...but it will also be easier to vacuum>
THANKS! (ya’ll do a great job and provide a great service)
<You're welcome! Come on back now...Ya hear! David Dowless>

Broken Fluval
Help! I have spent this afternoon changing my 37 gallon tank to a 75 gallon tank. All the live sand, rocks, and fish are in the new tank. I went to turn on my Fluval filter and it wouldn't work. I took it to the sink to check it out and the whole thing smells and the foam filters are smoke black color. The bio max (biological filters) smell and have the black water deposits. It looks like the pump had quit early and I didn't know it and it got skunky. Should I throw away the bio max balls?
<You can probably clean these up with a soak in bleach and then a long rinse in tapwater.>
Should I get new foam filters or clean the old ones with Clorox?
<I would probably just toss these.>
I think my motor died on the unit.
<Me too!>
How long will the fish be ok without a filter?
<If this is all you have (I hope that is not the case) they will last perhaps a day before ammonia poisoning or lack of oxygen gets them.>
Should I put my protein skimmer on the new tank, right away?
<Yes>
Should I put the power head in the tank right away?
<Yes>
The only thing I have hooked now is the heater.
Thanks, Cheryl
<Good luck! -Steven Pro>

Worth the money (marine aquarium filtration)
I have a 70gal saltwater tank fish only with live rock
<Okay>.  The filters are red sea protein skimmer, wet dry trickle system and a UV sterilizer. My water is pretty clear, but I always think there is room for improvement, so do you think that the Ocean Clear Canister Filters (model 325) is really worth the money and would you really get a get improvement in your tank?
<If memory serves me correct, Ocean clear filters do not have an automatic siphon. Jeez...these things are a real pain to maintenance...and very messy! If I were going for an inexpensive filter, I would get the Fluval 404 or spend the real bucks for an Eheim. If your water tests are almost perfect every time you test (never even a trace of ammonia or nitrite), your fish are living for years (not months or weeks), and you're not having any identifiable water quality problems including cloudy or discolored water, you may not need a new filter. But redundancy in equipment is sometimes a good thing to have...>                             
MIKE WHITE
<David D.>

Fluval 304
Hi guy's,
Fluval sprung a leak today and handle broke a second time. I can't stand this filter. Please no comments on what I might be doing wrong, I have tried everything. I am about to scour the site for recommendations for a similar canister filter, perhaps you can save me some time. 55 gal corner tank with HOT Prizm skimmer and in tank Fluval simple filter directed through 30# live rock. Fish only tank. What a nightmare week. see attachment. Virus free.
Thanks Kevin.
<Hi Kevin,
Craig here.
Sorry to hear about your filter problems.
I have an Eheim and it has performed flawlessly. They tend to have a lower flow rate unless you size larger. The canister and media volume is adjustable and will run perfectly with no media at all or your choice. Very high quality and reasonably affordable.
Hope this solves the filter issues!
Craig>